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A 

GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA: 



CONTAINING 



AN ACCOUNT 



OF THE 



HISTORY, GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES, SOIL, CLIMATE, GEOLOGY, 
BOTANY, ZOOLOGY, POPULATION, EDUCATION, GOVERN- 
MENT, FINANCES, PRODUCTIONS, TRADE, RAIL 
ROADS, CANALS, &;c. OF THE STATE ; 



WITH A 

SEPARATE DESCRIPTION OF EACH COUNTY, 

AND 

QUESTIONS FOR THE CONVENIENCE OF TEACHERS. 

TO WHICH IS APPENDED, 

A TRAVELLERS^ GUIDE, 

OR TABLE OF DISTANCES ON THE PRINCIPAL RAIL ROAD, CANAL 
AND STAGE ROUTES IN THE STATE. 



BY CHARLES B. TREGO, 

Late Assistant State Geologist ; Member of the American Philosophical Society ; 
of the Association of American Geologists and Naturalists, &c., &c. 



Illustrated by a Map of the State and numerous Engi-amngs. 



PHILADELPHIA : 
EDWARD C. BIDDLE, 6 SOUTH FIFTH STREET. 

STEKEOTYPED BY C. W. MURRAY Sc CO. 

1843. 



^^^1 







Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1843, by 

EDWARD C. BIDDLE, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of 

Pennsylvania. 



TroneP«»r 

MAY 14 1S4^ 

9 8 

llMUBMIYofOQMlWtt 



PRINTED BY T. K. & P. G. COLLIXS, PHILA 



PREFACE. 



Every citizen of a free commonwealth, and more especially he 
who exercises the right of suffrage, should, as far as practicable, 
be made acquainted with the character and condition of the State 
over whicli he is one of the joint sovereigns, and for the proper 
government of which he is partly responsible. A consideration 
of the advantages to be derived from a more intimate knowledge 
of the physical features, population, institutions, productions, 
resources, trade and improvements of Pennsylvania, has led to the 
preparation of this volume, in the hope that it might be found ser- 
viceable in the cause of education, as well as acceptable to the 
community at large. 

There is no work extant which affords that general and minute 
information both useful and desirable to the student, the man of 
business, and the traveller, who may seek for a more extended 
knowledge of this noble State than is to be obtained from the Geo- 
graphies in common use, in which but a few pages (generally 
three or four at most) are devoted to the description of a common- 
wealth containing almost two millions of inhabitants, and having a 
territory nearly equal to that of England in extent. To supply 
this defect, and to give such an account of Pennsylvania as may 
lead to a more full and intimate acquaintance with its actual con- 
dition, has been the object of the present work, which, it is hoped, 
will not only be found useful in families and to individuals as a 
book of reference, but one which may be used with advantage in 
our general system of school education. With this view, ques- 
tions have been added to each section for the convenience of 
teachers. 

The work is divided into two parts, with a historical introduction 
prefixed. The first part contains an account of the general geo- 
graphical features of the State, its soil, climate, &c., with a de- 
scriptive sketch of its geology, botany and zoology; the character 
of its population, education, government and finances; its pro- 
ductions of agriculture, manufactures, mines and forests; its 
internal improvements, trade and commerce. In the second part 
will be found a particular description of each county, in alpha- 
betical order; embracing an account of its physical aspect, geolo- 
gical character, mineral products, soil, streams, towns and villages, 
productions, canals, rail roads, turnpikes, bridges, &c., — the as- 
sessed value of property, the state of education, colleges, academies 
and schools, religious denominations, natural curiosities, &c., 
together with historical sketches of the early settlement, and such 
other particulars as have been deemed worthy of notice. 

With regard to the sources from which our information has been 
derived, care has been taken to select those upon which the most 
rehance could be placed, and to reject much that has been hereto- 
fore published which was found to be erroneous or doubtful. In 

I* 5 



6 PREFACE. 

the course of his duties as Assistant State Geologist during four 
years and on various other occasions, the author has visited most 
parts of the State, and has thus enjoyed opportunities of acquiring 
much local information concerning the different subjects embraced 
in this work. For a description of the geological character and 
mineral productions of those districts which he has not had an 
opportunity of examining, and for the general arrangement and 
classification of the various rock formations, reference has been 
had to the annual reports made to the legislature by the State 
Geoloo-ist. In our sketches of historical events, the works of 
Gordon and other historians of the State have been freely used; 
as have been also many other books and documents contammg 
information suited to our purpose. 

In order to obtain more full and complete materials for oar un- 
dertaking, and to enable us to do ample justice to every portion 
of the State, letters requesting information upon various interesting 
subjects were addressed to such gentlemen in the different counties 
as were deemed most likely, from their known intelligence and 
ability, to afford the desired answers; but we regret to say that 
from only a very few of them have any replies been received. 
Our grateful acknowledgments are, however, due to the following 
named gentlemen for valuable communications respecting their 
several counties : Professor Jacobs of Adams, Isaac Lightner, Esq., 
of Allegheny, Dr. M'Crea of Berks, Dr. Cartee of Bucks, James 
Lesley, ''Esq., of Dauphin, Judge Smith and Messrs. Crozer and 
Painter of Delaware, George Ford, Esq., of Lancaster, and T. 
Nicholson, Esq., of Susquehanna. The author would also respect- 
fully acknowledge his obligations to those of his fellow members 
of the legislature who have kindly aided him with information on 
various subjects in the districts represented by them. 

For the substance of the article on Zoology we are indebted to 
Professor S. S. Haldeman, and for valuable assistance in that on 
Education, to Professor A. D. Bache,— gentlemen whose acknow- 
ledged abilities and zeal in their respective pursuits, as well as their 
labours for the promotion of general science, are well known and 
hio-hly appreciated. Whatever merit may be found in our account 
of'^tlie Trade and Commerce of the State, is due to the kindness of 
a friend whose commercial pursuits and general acquaintance with 
the subject have enabled him to supply our want of knowledge in 
this dejpartment. For the original drawings from which most of 
our engravings illustrative of natural scenery have been taken, we 
are indebted to the kind liberality of W. T. Russell Smith, an 
artist of acknowledged merit in his profession. 

A book of this kind must, from the nature of the subject, be 
little else than a mere compilation. The writer is therefore aware 
that he can lay but small claim to originality, and will be satisfied 
if it shall be found that he has compiled judiciously, and his la- 
bours be conducive to a more intimate and thorough acquaintance 
with the features, character and resources of his native State. 

Philadelphia, August, 1843. 



CONTENTS. 



Historical Introduction, 



fiLOE 

9 



PART I. 

OF THE STATE IN GENERAL. 

. 1. Boundaries, extent, and political divisions, 

2. Face of the country, mountains, &c., 

3. Rivers, 

4. Soil, 

5. Climate, ...... 

6. Geology, 

7. Botany, 

8. Zoology, 

9. Population, ..... 

10. Religion and morals, 

11. Education, 

12. Crime and its punishment, . 

13. Pauperism and the poor laws, . 

14. Government and legislation, 

15. Defence, ...... 

16. Finances, revenue and taxation, . 

17. Productions, 

18. Trade and commerce, . 

19. Internal improvements. 



25 

26 

30 

34 

39 

41 

57 

75 

84 

86 

88 

96 

100 

102 

106 

107 

110 

129 

147 



PART II. 

OF THE SEVERAL COUNTIES. 

1. Adams county, 164 

2. Allegheny, 167 

3. Armstrong, 176 

4. Beaver, 179 

5. Bedford, 183 

6. Berks, 187 

7. Bradford, 193 

8. Bucks, 194 

9. Butler, 202 

10. Cambria, 204 

11. Carbon, . 206 

12. Centre, 209 

7 



8 



CONTENTS. 



13. Chester, 

14. Clarion, . 

15. Clearfield, 

16. Clinton, . 

17. Columbia, 

18. Crawford, 

19. Cuml)erland, . 

20. Dauphin, . 

21. Delaware, 

22. Elk, . 

23. Erie, . 

24. Fayette, . 

25. Franklin, 

26. Greene, 

27. Huntingdon, 

28. Indiana, . 

29. Jefferson, 

30. Juniata, 

31. Lancaster, 

32. Lebanon, . 

33. Lehigh, 

34. Luzerne, . 

35. Lycoming, 

36. McKean, . 

37. Mercer, 

38. Mifflin, . 

39. Monroe, 

40. Montgomery, 

41. Northampton, 

42. Northumberland, 

43. Perry, . 

44. Philadelphia, 

45. Pike, . 

46. Potter, 

47. Schuylkill, . 

48. Somerset, . 

49. Susquehanna, 

50. Tioga, 

51. Union, . 

52. Venango, . 

53. Warren, 

54. Washington, 

55. Wayne, 

56. Westmoreland, 

57. Wyoming, . 

58. York, 

Travellers' Guide. 
Congressional, Senatorial and 

TRICTS . 



Representative 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 



The earliest settlements made by Europeans within the limits 
of Pennsylvania were by a colony of Swedes, who in the year 
1638 purchased from the natives the land upon the western shore 
of Delaware bay and river, from Cape Henlopen to the falls 
opposite the present city of Trenton. In 1642, John Prinlz, the 
Swedish governor, erected for his own use a handsome and con- 
venient mansion on Tinicum island, below the mouth of the 
Schuylkill, and also caused a church to be built, which was con- 
secrated in 1646. In this neighbourhood the principal settlers 
established themselves. The Dutch West India Company, how- 
ever, also laid claim to this territory under a grant from the govern- 
ment of Holland, and in 1654 they subdued the Swedes, and brought 
them under the dominion of the government of New Netherlands, 
now New York, which then belonged to the Dutch. 

When the English conquered New Netherlands in 1664, the 
Dutch possessions on the Delaware also fell into their hands, and 
the whole country remained for several years subject to the En- 
glish governors of New York. 

WilHam Penn, the son of Sir William Penn, a distinguished 
admiral in the British navy, having embraced the rehgious senti- 
ments of the people called Friends, or Q,uakers, suffered much 
persecution on that account, and seems to have looked towards the 
new settlements in America, as a place where he might found a 
colony as an asylum for his persecuted brethren. Accordingly, in 

1680, he petitioned King Charles II. for a tract of land lying north 
of the patent previously granted to Lord Baltimore, and west of 
the Delaware. This was readily granted to him in consideration 
of a debt of sixteen thousand pounds, due to him in right of his * 
father, from the government. The charter was dated March 4, 

1681, and constituted WilUam Penn and his heirs true and abso- 
lute proprietaries of the province of Pennsylvania, saving to the 
crown their allegiance and the sovereignty.* He and his heirs 
and deputies were empowered to enact laws with the assent of the 
freemen of the province, to erect courts of justice, and generally to 
administer the government, provided that nothing should be done 
repugnant to the laws or sovereignty of England. No tax or duty 
was to be laid on the people or their property by the king, unless 
by consent of the proprietary, governor or assembly, or by act of 
parliament. 

* This Charter is yet preserved and hangs in a frame in the Office of the Secretary of 
the Commonv/ealth at Harrisburg. 



10 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

Soon after this, Penn published an account of his newly acquired 
territory, and offered the land to purchasers at the rate of forty 
shillings per hundred acres, with a quit rent of one shilhng per 
annum forever. His offers were soon embraced and several com- 
panies of emigrants sailed from London and Bristol to take posses- 
sion, landing in December 1681, at Upland, now Chester. They 
were chiefly of the society of Friends, and being temperate, mdus- 
trious and economical, conducted themselves in the difficulties and 
hardships of their new situation with so much prudence and cir- 
cumspection as to avoid most of the dangers to which a new 
colony is usually subject. Their success induced others to follow, 
and so early as August 1683, the population was estimated at 
four thousand. Penn himself soon followed the first colonists, 
and landed at Newcastle, October 24, 1682. 

He immediately proceeded to establish his government over the 
infant province, and convened an assembly which met at Chester 
on the 4th of December. This first legislature of Pennsylvania, 
during a session of three days, enacted three laws. 1. An act an- 
aexing the Lower Counties to the province. 2. An act naturahz- 
ing the Swedes, Dutch, and other foreigners in the province. 3. 
The " great law," comprising the laws agreed on in England as a 
general system of jurisprudence. •, • i r i 

The conscientious Penn still regarded the Indians as the righttul 
possessors of the soil, and invited them to a conference at Shacka- 
maxon, (now Kensington,) where they assembled in great num- 
bers. Here a formal treaty of peace and amity was made ; they 
were paid for their lands, and departed for their forest homes full 
of love and admiration for the great and good Onas, as they called 
Penn. This treaty, simple but sincere, remained inviolate for 
seventy years. Voltaire says, " It was the only treaty between 
these people and the Christians that was not ratified by an oath, 
and which was never broken." i, j i v 

The city of Philadelphia was laid out at a place called by the 
Indians Coaqiiannock, between Wicacoa, now Southwark, and 
Shackanmxon. During the first year eighty houses were erected, 
and the estabUshment of various mechanical arts, as well as a 
profitable trade soon gave strength to the infant city. Fresh arri- 
vals of emigrants poured into the province from England, Wales, 
and Germany. The Welsh settled upon the Schuylkill some miles 
above Philadelphia, and the Germans, estabhshing themselves on 
the north, founded the village of Germantown. Four years after 
the grant of the charter to Penn, the province contained twenty 
• settlements, and Philadelphia two thousand inhabitants. 

In August 1684, Penn having received intelligence that his 
presence was necessary in England, concluded to leave the colony 
for a time, and return to the mother country. He had established 
a government, and beheld his people happy and prosperous in 
their civil and religious liberty. He appointed five commissioners 
of the provincial council, with Thomas Lloyd as president, to ad- 
minister the government during his absence. Shortly after his 
arrival in England, King Charles II. died, and was succeeded by 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 



11 



James II. The troubles in England, during the reign of that 
prince, involved Penn and his colony in difficulty, and after the 
revolution of 1688, which placed Wilham and Mary on the 
throne, Penn was several times imprisoned, in consequence of his 
religion and his supposed adherence to the cause of the fallen 
monarch. The government of Pennsylvania was taken into the 
hands of the king, who appointed Colonel Fletcher, at that time 
governor of New York, to administer the affairs of the province. 
There seems to have been little cordiality of feeling between Gov- 
ernor Fletcher and the people of the province, and with the pro- 
vincial assembly he was continually engaged in disputes and con- 
tentions. 

The suspicions which had so long rendered the king unfriendly 
to Penn, were at last removed. He had friends among the leading 
men who were in the confidence of the sovereign ; he was heard 
before the privy council, honourably acquitted, and restored to his 
proprietary rights by patent dated August 1694. He now desir'^d 
again to visit Pennsylvania, but being prevented by pecuniary 
difficulties, he continued William Markham as deputy governor. 
The colonial assembly differing with the Governor, and complain- 
ing that their chartered privileges had been broken, a new frame 
of government was agreed upon, more democratic than the former, 
and defining more explicitly the powers of the assembly, and the 
duties of the several officers. This, however, does not seem to 
have been sanctioned by Penn, and continued in force only until 
he arrived in the province in 1699. 

On this second visit he was accompanied by his family, and pro- 
bably designed to spend the remainder of his life in Pennsylvania. 

The house which he occupied, and in which his son John Penn 
was born, is still standing at the southeast corner of Second street 
and Norris' alley. The front has since undergone some altera- 
tions, but enough of the old fashioned peculiarity of the structure 
is still visible, to distinguish it as a relic of the olden time. 




William Penn's house, as in 1700. 



12 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

The proprietary was far, however, from finding quiet and repose. 
The colonists were still dissatisfied, and demanded further con 
cessions and privileges ; the intercourse with the Indians, and the 
question of negro slavery also furnished sources of continual 
trouble and anxiety. He was, moreover, engaged in a dispute with 
Lord Baltimore, the proprietor of Maryland, concerning the boun- 
dary line between the two provinces ; a controversy which lasted 
many years, and was at last settled by Mason and Dixon, who 
were appointed commissioners for the purpose, and who finally 
established the boundary line in 1768, and set up a hewn stone at 
every mile along it, many of which are yet standing. 

Penn, having determined to return to England, in order to 
satisfy the colonists, prepared once more a new frame of govern- 
ment for the province, still more hberal, and conferring greater 
powers on the colonial assembly. This charter the three lower 
counties, Newcastle, Kent and Sussex, refused to receive, and 
separating from Pennsylvania elected an assembly for themselves, 
still acknowledging the authority of the governor. 

In November 1701, Penn sailed for England, leaving Andrew 
Hamilton as his deputy, whose administration was embittered by 
the disputes of the assembly. Penn was harassed by complaints, 
and made several changes in the administration. At length wea- 
ried with the continual dissensions and controversies in the pro- 
vince, and finding his health declining, he resolved to transfer the 
government of Pennsylvania to the crown, still retaining his 
right to the soil and the quit rents. He addressed an admirable 
letter to the assembly, in which his wisdom and affectionate con- 
cern for the future welfare of the province are strongly marked. 
He died in 1718, leaving his interest in Pennsylvania as an in- 
heritance to his children, which they continued to possess until the 
revolutionary war, when their claim was purchased by the Com- 
monwealth for 130,000 pounds sterling, about 580,000 dollars. 

After the death of William Penn, a dispute arose concerning 
the validity of his transfer of the government, and it again de- 
volved to his sons John, Thomas, and Richard Penn, by whom it 
was held, under different deputy governors, until the revolution. 
In 1729 upwards of six thousand emigrants arrived, and for 
several years following the influx was very great, — principally 
from Germany and Ireland. They settled chiefly in the counties 
of Northampton, Berks, Lancaster, York, Cumberland, Bedford, 
Northumberland, and Westmoreland, forming a thriving and 
industrious people, and introducing a variety of useful arts, and 
manufactures. The Germans seem to have acted with admirable 
foresight in locating their settlements on some of the best soil in 
the province for agricultural purposes ; and we still see their 
wealthy descendants occupying the rich limestone valleys where 
their ancestors from the " Father land" first reared their humble 
dwelhngs and found a happy home. 

Thomas Penn arrived in 1732, and two years afterwards John 
Penn, the senior proprietary visited the province. Patrick 
Gordon was the deputy governor from 1726 to 1736, and during 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 13 

his administration the province increased in population, improved 
in morals, and prospered in commerce. Large quantities of grain 
were shipped to Lisbon, and the vessel frequently sold as well as 
the cargo. Provisions were shipped to the West Indies, in return 
for which sugar, molasses, and specie were obtained ; and a trade 
with Madeira, the Azores and Canary islands also flourished. 
The laws relating to inspections were revised, an auctioneer was 
appointed, and an insolvent law passed. Some troubles respect- 
ing land titles occurred in consequence of the land office being 
closed during the minority of Richard and Thomas Penn, from 
the death of their father to the year 1732. Vacant lands were oc- 
cupied without title by emigrants, frequently sold and resold, and 
great confusion was produced by a proclamation from the proprie- 
tary requiring payment under the penalty of ejectment. Pay- 
ments were procrastinated, warrants were vacated, resurveys were 
made, and a compromise was frequently effected as the only mode 
of avoiding trouble and difficulty. 

On the breaking out of a war between Spain and Great Britain 
in 1739, Pennsylvania was called upon for her quota of men and 
money for the general defence of the colonies. The assembly re- 
fused on the ground of religious scruples, and further stated that 
the colony, being so remote from the sea, was not likely to be 
attacked by the enemy. They, however, voted three thousand 
pounds for the use of the king ; but subject to such conditions that 
the governor refused it, and raised money by the sale of bills on 
the Enghsh government. Many other subjects of difference arose 
between the governor and the assembly, which at last grew to 
such a height as seriously to impede the public business. In order 
to sustain himself and his party, the governor removed from office 
those persons who were opposed to his views ; a precedent which 
seems to have been followed by the governors of this State to the 
present day. The effect of this practice upon the public good is, 
however, questionable as to its benefit ; for the rewarding of party 
services by appointments' to office must always incite men to be- 
come partizans for the sake of office, and men of merit, integrity, 
ability and purity of character must be sacrificed to make room 
for party favourites, even of notorious incapacity or of doubtful 
honesty. 

At the election of 1742, the tv\^o parties prepared for a trial of 
strength. The Gluaker or country party was most powerful in the 
counties ; while the friends of the governor, or gentlemen'' s party, 
were strongest in the city. As some of the proceedings relative to 
this election bear considerable resemblance to those of our own 
times, Ave shall describe them more particularly than would other- 
wise be necessary. The freemen of the whole county of Philadel- 
phia, held their election at the court house in Market street, and 
the inspectors were chosen in the morning by the voters assembled. 
The country party collected to the number of a thousand, a great 
number of them being Germans, and proceeded to nominate their 
candidates for inspectors. The governor's party offered to divide 
the number of inspectors equally, but this was refused on the 

2 



14 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

ground that they had no right to control the votes of the people. 
The country parly, in order that no violence might ensue on their 
part, and that every appearance of force should be taken away, re- 
solved that not even those who commonly carried canes should 
take them to the polls. Many of the Germans, however, who 
were attached to this party were aliens, and the friends of the 
governor feared violence from them. On the morning of the elec- 
tion a party of about seventy sailors, strangers, from the ships in 
the river, paraded the streets in a noisy and riotous manner. The 
magistrates were solicited to check them, but declined ; and it was 
said that the presence of the sailors at the polls was as proper as 
that of the alien Germans. It was also intimated by the recorder 
that any trouble or riot which might occur would be chargeable to 
the country party, in consequence of their having refused to com- 
promise in the choice of inspectors. On proceeding to choose in- 
spectors, William Allen was proposed to the assembled voters, 
but was rejected, and Isaac Norris was chosen. Immediately the 
sailors rushed up, and attacking the voters with clubs, cleared the 
ground. When the polls were afterwards opened for the general 
election, they took possession of the steps which led to the place 
of voting, and attempted by violence to prevent the country party 
from approaching, many of whom were beaten and wounded. 
The patience of the countrymen being at last exhausted, they op- 
posed force to force, and finally beat off the sailors, about fifty of 
whom, with their leaders. Captains Mitchell and Redmond were 
imprisoned. The election now proceeded quietly and the country 
party were successful, electing all their members of the former 
house of assembly. The circumstances of this riot were after- 
wards investigated by the assembly, and it was strongly presumed 
that the governor's party had incited the sailors to their violent and 
disorderly conduct. Among other circumstances, it appeared that 
money had been promised, and advanced to them in the prison; 
and that some unknown persons had engaged them to beat off the 
Gluakers and Germans from the election ground. The assembly 
sent an address to the governor praying that he would order a trial 
of the mayor, recorder and other city officers before the Supreme 
Court ; but this was refused, because, as he alleged, the mayor's 
court alone had jurisdiction of offences committed in the city. 
The assembly then passed a resolution of censure on the chief 
officers of the police, and the affair ended. 

The indirect hostilities between France and England in 1743-4, 
caused much trouble and anxiety in Pennsylvania, The Indians, 
incited and stirred up by French agents and traders from Canada, 
were becoming troublesome on the border settlements. The militia 
of Lancaster county were organized and disciphned by the gov- 
ernor, and other precautionary measures adopted. On the war 
being declared between these two European powers in March 
1744, serious apprehensions of French invasion were entertained; 
the able bodied men of the province were ordered to prepare arms 
and train for military service. Benjamin Franklin distinguished 
himself on this occasion, and chiefly by his exertions, a body of 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTIOJV. 15 

ten thousand volunteers was raised: a battery was also erected 
below the city, from funds raised by lottery. 

Much dissatisfaction existed among certain tribes of Indians at 
the encroachments of the white settlers upon their lands. The 
country south of the Kittatiny or Blue mountain, had previously 
to this time been by various treaties sold by the Indians to the pro- 
prietaries ; but the Delaware Indians refused to relinquish the 
country between the Lehigh and the Delaware, and it is said that 
the proprietor complained of them to the Five Nations to whom 
they were subject. A treaty was held in 1 736^ by which the right 
of the whites to the country as far as the Kittatiny was confirmed ; 
and in 1742, another, at which the Six Nations compelled the De- 
lawares to remove from the disputed territory, which they did, and 
went to Wyoming, Shamokin, and some to Ohio. In 1749, for 
five hundred pounds, the Indians sold the country on the east side 
of the Susquehanna, from the Blue mountain upwards as far as 
the mountain on the north side of Mahanoy creek, and thence by 
a line to the mouth of Lackawaxen on the Delaware. 

The white people had made settlements on the Juniata, at 
which the Indians were much displeased ; and the French emis- 
saries used their influence to heighten the jealous feeling. A 
treaty was held at Albany in 1754, by order of the king, with the 
Six Nations, at which they granted in consideration of four hun- 
dred pounds, to Thomas and Richard Penn, "' all the lands lying 
within the province of Pennsylvania, bounded as follows : begin- 
ning at the Kittochtinny or Blue hills, on the west of Susquehanna 
river, and thence by the said river a mile above a certain creek 
called Kayarondinhagh, (now Penn's creek,) thence northwest 
and by west as far as the said province of Pennsylvania extends, 
to its western lines or boundaries ; thence along the said western 
line to the south line or boundary of the province, and thence by 
the said south line or boundary to the said Kittochtinny hills, thence 
by the south side of said hills to the place of beginning." 

This large grant, which included the dwellings of the Shaw- 
anese and others, as well as the hunting grounds of the Delawares, 
Nanticokes and Tuteloes, so much increased the discontent that 
many of the tribes openly joined the French. The design then 
entertained by the French government of opening a communica- 
tion by a line of armed posts between Canada and Louisiana was 
vigorously prosecuted. Forts were erected at Presque isle, (now 
Erie,) on French creek, and at the junction of the Allegheny and 
Monongahela rivers. The governor of Virginia, who regarded the 
establishment of these outposts as an act of aggression on the 
EngUsh colonies, resolved to remonstrate with the French com- 
mandant on the Ohio. As the bearer of his despatches he selected 
Major George Washington, then not twenty years of age, but 
who gave promise in youth, of those qualities which afterwards 
rendered him so nobly conspicuous. After a hazardous and toil- 
some journey in the depth of winter, Washington returned with 
an answer in which the French officer stated that he was acting 
under the orders of the governor of Canada, and should maintain 



16 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

his position. This defiance roused the spirit of Virginia^ and 
Washington was sent with three hundred men in advance, as far 
as the Great Meadows, where he met with and defeated a party 
of French and Indians. The remainder of the regiment coming 
up, they advanced to dislodge the French from Fort du Q,uesne, 
which was buik on the spot where Pittsburg now stands. They 
soon received intelligence that a force of twelve hundred French 
and Indians were on the way to meet them, and being short of 
provisions they determined to retreat to the Great Meadows where 
a stockade was hastily erected and called Fort Necessity. This 
spot is yet to be seen, near the national road, in the southeast of 
Fayette county. Before the fort was finished Washington was 
attacked, and after a most gallant resistance was forced to capitu- 
late, his men being allowed to retain their arms and baggage and 
to return home unmolested. 

The expedition of General Braddock followed, to which the 
assembly of Pennsylvania, though from alleged conscientious 
scruples they gave no direct encouragement to the raising of troops, 
yet contributed funds for the purchase of provisions ; and through 
the exertions of Dr. Franklin, then Post Master General, one hun- 
dred and fifty wagons and two hundred and fifty pack horses were 
obtained for the use of the army, chiefiy in Lancaster, York and 
Cumberland counties. Braddock was posted at Fort Cumberland, 
near the junction of Will's creek with the Potomac, in the western 
part of Maryland. In June, 1755, he broke up his camp, and 
crossed the mountains at the head of two thousand two hundred 
men, cutting a road for their passage through the wilderness. 
This road is yet in many places distinctly visible, and pursues for 
many miles nearly the same route as that occupied by the present 
national road. Having reached the Little Meadows, Braddock, 
by the advice of Washington who accompanied him, left a portion 
of his force with the heavy artillery and stores, and pushed for- 
ward with one thousand two hundred men and tAVelve pieces of 
cannon. Though repeatedly advised by Washington and the 
other provincial officers to scour the woods and guard against sur- 
prise, he rejected their counsel with scorn, and asserted the supe- 
riority of his military knowledge over that of the American buck- 
skins. His fooHsh confidence and reckless disregard of the mode 
of Indian warfare was destined to a speedy and fatal reproof. On 
the 9th of July he was suddenly attacked by a strong force of 
French and Indians, who, concealed behind trees and bushes, 
poured in a well directed and destructive fire, by which his troops 
were thrown into confusion. Their bravery was ineffectual 
against an invisible enemy, who from rocks and trees and high 
grass took sure aim at the officers and men, without being them- 
selves perceived. The slaughter was dreadful, and Braddock 
himself was mortally wounded. The British regiments, unaccus- 
tomed to this mode of fighting, could not be rallied ; but the pro- 
vincial troops stood their ground and under Washington covered 
the retreat of the survivors. Braddock lived until the remains of 
the army had reached about forty miles from the field of battle. 



HISTORICAL IJVTRODUCTION. 17 

where he was buried, as is reported, in the middle of the road 
which he had cut. To prevent the Indians from discovering his 
grave, it is said that the troops, horses and wagons were passed 
over it. The spot was marked by the soldiers, and is still to be 
seen a little north of the national road, about ten miles east of 
Uniontown. 

The defeat of Braddock's army spread consternation and dismay 
throughout Pennsylvania. The retreat of the remaining portion 
of the army under General Dunbar to Philadelphia, left the whole 
western frontier exposed, and the Indians falling upon the defence- 
less inhabitants committed, at will, the most savage cruelties and 
wanton destruction. They first attacked the settlers in Cumber- 
land county, and next those east of the Susquehanna at Tulpe- 
hocken, Mahony and the Moravian village of Gnadenhutten 
which was burned and destroyed. The near approach of danger 
aroused the authorities of the province to provide for defence. 
The settlements on the Juniata had been wasted by the enemy, and 
such of the people as did not escape, were either killed and scalped, 
or taken prisoners. To guard against the marauding parties of 
French and Indians who infested the country north of the Kitta- 
tiny mountain, a line of defence, consisting of forts and block 
houses was constructed along it from the Delaware river to Mary- 
land. The patriotic Franklin was conspicuous for his services in 
this hour of danger. Men were marched to garrison the forts, 
Bethlehem was put in a state of defence, and twelve hundred men, 
with a company of artillery, Avere raised in the city, formed into a 
regiment and Franklin chosen as colonel. 

Still, however, war had not been declared by the province 
against the Indians. Though the Delawares and Shawanese had 
committed hostilities, the assembly relied upon the influence of 
the Six Nations over them, and the friendly relations which had 
so long existed between these people and the Q,uakers were not 
yet forgotten. The assembly was moved to address the governor, 
and request him to suspend his declaration of war, but without 
effect ; he proclaimed it by the advice of his council, with but one 
dissenting voice. The Q.uakers in the assembly were much blamed 
and suffered much trouble on account of their pacific principles ; but 
though declining any exertion to procure their election to that 
body, many of them were chosen by the people, sometimes, per- 
haps, with a view of escaping taxes and military service. 

In August 1756, an expedition was undertaken under the 
command of Colonel Armstrong against the Indian town of Kit- 
taning, on the Alleghany, which was taken and burned after an 
obstinate conflict. Eleven English prisoners were released and a 
large quantity of powder and goods, which had been given to the 
Indians by the French, was destroyed. 

The Indians on the Susquehanna and in other parts of the 
province having generally become desirous of peace, a treaty was 
held at Easton, in August 1757, at which the representatives of 
ten tribes attended. They not only agreed to a treaty of peace, 
but resolved to take up arms against the French. The western 

2* 



1^ HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

Indians, however, still under the French influence, and supplied 
with arms, powder and goods from Fort du Q^uesne, continued 
to roam in small parties over the province, keeping the settlers in 
continual alarm and apprehension. All out-door labour was per- 
formed with arms at hand, or under an armed guard ; and the 
tomahawk and rifle of the savage was used without mercy. The 
unprotected dwelling was attacked and burned, women and chil- 
dren were butchered and scalped ; while the savage enemy, avoid- 
ing the forts and armed bands of the settlers, even advanced 
some of these prowling war parties, it is said, to within thirty 
miles of Philadelphia. 

The capture of Fort du Gluesne was now resolved upon, and 
in July 1758, General Forbes marched from Carlisle with a strong 
force. He proceeded by way of Raystown and Loyalhanna, at 
which latter place an advanced division under Colonel Bouquet 
had been attacked by the French and Indians. These having re- 
tired, the general advanced towards Fort du Q,uesne, but before 
his arrival the French had destroyed and abandoned it. The 
ruined fortifications were repaired, and a garrison being left, the 
main body of the army returned to the eastern counties. The 
surrender of Canada to the English in 1760, put an end to the 
war. 

A season of peace and tranquiUity was now hoped for ; but it 
was of short duration. A secret league was formed among the 
tribes on the Ohio, and the border settlements were to be simulta- 
neously attacked. The frontiers of Pennsylvania, Maryland and 
Virginia were overrun and plundered by scalping parties ; the 
forts at Venango, Le Boeuf and Presqne isle being weakly manned 
were taken and the garrisons murdered. In the summer of 1763, 
the whole country west of Shippensliurg was at the mercy of 
the savages. The people quit their farms and flocked to Ship- 
pensburg, Carlisle, and other towns for protection. Fort Ligonier, 
west of the mountains, still held out, though besieged by the 
enemy, and Colonel Bouquet was despatched by General Am- 
herst to relieve it. He marched from Carlisle in July, the enemy 
retired on his approach, but attacked him at Turtle creek, on his 
advance to Fort du (iuesne, where he escaped the fate of Braddock 
only by superior skill in the method of Indian warfare. He com- 
pletely routed and dispersed the assailants, Avith the loss of fifty 
men and many horses, and was obliged to destroy a large portion 
of his provisions. Four days afterwards he reached Fort du 
Gluesne, then named Fort Pitt • the Indians having retreated to 
their remote settlements. 

In the following winter the frontiers were again harassed by 
the Indians. 8ome of the Delawares and Six Nations who re- 
mained among the whites, professing neutrality, became suspected 
of aiding the enemy ; and a party of armed settlers, chiefly from 
Paxton, or Paxtang, township, Lancaster county, in December 
1763, attacked an Indian village near Conestoga, barbarously 
killing old men, women and children. The Indian men were 
mostly absent at the time, and were placed for protection in the 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 19 

prison at Lancaster. The prison was forced, and the miserable 
Indians were killed, protesting their innocence and their love for 
the English. The magistrates of the town seem to have taken no 
measures to prevent this outrage. The governor afterwards issued 
a proclamation offering a reward for the discovery of the perpe- 
trators, but without effect. 

The Indians who remained, being alarmed by these hostile de- 
monstrations, were desirous of proceeding to the province of New 
York ; but the governor there refusing permission, they were 
taken to Philadelphia for their security. Their enemies in Lan- 
caster county, howevep, being determined to expel them, assem- 
bled in great numbers and marched for the city. The governor 
prepared fo* 'efence, cannon were mounted, and the approaches 
to the city placed under strong guards. The insurgents proceeded 
to Germantown, and finding the strength of the preparations made 
to oppose them, forbore the attack upon the city, and by the advice 
of some prudent persons who visited them, sent two of their 
leaders to the governor and assembly with a memorial, which was 
referred to a committee ; the excitement subsided and the affair 
terminated, 

John Penn, one of the proprietaries was now governor of Penn- 
sylvania. Further supplies were necessary for the support of the 
war against the western Indians ; the quota of men to be furnished 
by Pennsylvania was one thousand, which the assembly resolved 
to raise, and to maintain it they voted o£50,000. Difficulties, 
however, arose between them and the governor respecting the 
mode of taxation and other subjects, which gave rise to a long 
and bitter controversy, which was carried to such a height that 
the assembly at last resolved to take measures for effecting a 
change in the government. Petitions to the king for that purpose 
were presented, and agents were, sent to England for the pur- 
pose of obtaining a change of the government from proprietary to 
royal. 

In 1764 all the American colonies were thrown into agitation 
by the avowed design of the British government to raise a revenue 
from them by taxation. The indignation was universal, and Penn- 
sylvania stood with her sister provinces in opposition to the odious 
measure. Dr. Franklin was sent to England as agent for the 
province, and laboured earnestly to avert the dangerous experi- 
ment of taxing the colonies. The stamp act was, however, passed 
in March 1765, and was one of the leading causes which, not 
many years after, produced that revolution which separated the 
colonies from the mother country. 

At the treaty of Fort Stanwix, in 1768, another large purchase 
of land was made from the Indians. In consideration of |10,000, 
the chiefs of the Six Nations there assembled, granted to Thomas 
Penn and Richard Penn all that part of Pennsylvania not pre 
viously purchased within the following limits : beginning at the 
boundary line of the province, on the east branch of the Susque- 
hanna at a place called Owegy, and running with the boundary 
line, down the east branch, to the mouth of a creek called Awan- 



20 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 

dac or Tawandee. Thence up the said creek and along the hills 
called BurneWs hills to the head of a creek which runs into the 
west branch of the Susquehanna^ which creek is called by the 
Indians Tiadaghton, (Pine creek^) and down the said creek to the 
west branch of the Susquehanna, and up the same to the fork which 
lies nearest to Kittaning. (This fork is now called canoe place, or 
the Cherry Tree, being, it is said, the farthest point to which a 
canoe could be pushed up the west branch : it is at the northwest 
corner of Cambria county.) From this the line of purchase ran 
straight to Kittaning and thence down the Allegheny and Ohio 
rivers to the western boundary of Pennsylvania, and along it to 
the southern boundary which limited the purchase on the south 
as far eastward as the " Allegheny hills." Thence along east of 
said hills to the west line of the former purchases, and north of 
them to the mouth of Lecluiwachsein (Lackawaxen) creek on the 
Delaware, then up the Delaware to an east hne from Oivegy, and 
along it to the place of beginning at Owegy. 

By tracing the lines of this purchase on the map, it will be seen 
that it included the whole of the lands in the province not before 
purchased, with the exception of a large tract in the northwest 
which continued to be Indian ground until after the revolution. 
In 1784, this was also purchased from the Six Nations ; and thus, 
in a period of about one hundred and two years, was the whole 
Indian title within the bounds of Pennsylvania extinguished. 

But though the Indian title was thus peaceably extinguished, a 
dispute arose among the white settlers themselves respecting a 
portion of these lands, which finally assumed a serious aspect and 
led to violence and bloodshed. A number of settlers from Connec- 
ticut had estabhshed themselves at Wyoming, and the "Susque- 
hanna Company" of that province claimed a large tract in the 
north and northeast of Pennsylvania as belonging to Connecticut, 
the charter of which, it was asserted, covered the country from 
the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean. In 1761 some emigrants from 
Connecticut established themselves on the Delaware in North- 
ampton county, (now Pike and Wayne) and in 1762 others settled 
at Wyoming. The government of Pennsylvania remonstrated 
against their claims and encouraged Pennsylvania settlers to oc- 
cupy these lands. A large body accordingly proceeded to the 
Susquehanna, and soon came into collision with the people from 
Connecticut. Open war was the consequence : forts were erected, 
besieged and taken ; and at last the Connecticut settlers, persisting 
in their claims, the sheriff of Northumberland county was sent 
with a body of near five hundred men to dispossess them. His 
party was, however, beaten off and compelled to retire. Seeing 
that forcible ejection of the intruders must be followed by much 
bloodshed and misery, Pennsylvania forbore further hostihties. 
The right of jurisdiction to the disputed territory, was not settled 
until after the revolution, when it was determined in favour of 
Pennsylvania by commissioners appointed by Congress. The 
rights of territory were afterwards settled between the Pennsyl- 
vania and Connecticut claimants by the laws of Pennsylvania. 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 21 

In 1774 a contest arose with, the governor of Virginia in relation 
to the western boundary. The fort at Pittsburg had been seized 
by an agent of Lord Dunmore, under the pretence that it was 
within the Virginia boundary; land titles were contested and 
troubles with the Indians ensued. 

But these domestic difficulties were soon to be absorbed by a 
question of much greater consequence. The determination of the 
British government to tax the colonies and to infringe their rights 
by various acts of oppression^ had at length driven the American 
provinces to open resistance. The spirit of freedom was aroused, 
public meetings were held, delegates to a general Congress were 
chosen, and in 1776 that memorable declaration was signed by 
which the United States of America became an independent 
nation. 

The limits to which we are confined in this brief sketch of the 
history of Pennsylvania will not allow us to describe those inci- 
dents of the revolutionary war in which this state was more im- 
mediately concerned. These belong rather to the general history 
of the United States, and will be found fully detailed in the several 
works which have been written upon that subject. 

The Congress of 1776 having recommended the formation of 
new state governments, and the colonial assembly being regarded 
as deriving its power under the authority of the crown, a pro- 
vincial conference assembled at Philadelphia in June, which recom- 
mended the calling of a convention for the purpose of framing a 
constitution for the government of the state, under the authority 
of the people. This convention, consisting of e;ight members 
from each county, elected by the people, met on the 15th July, 
1776, and chose Dr. Franklin president. The constitution was 
completed in convention, and signed September 28th. The state 
continued under its government until 1790, when another conven- 
tion was called, and another frame of constitution agreed upon, 
under which Pennsylvania remained until 1838. In 1836 
the people of the commonwealth determined by a majority of 
votes in favour of calling a convention to amend the constitution, 
and in 1837 elected members to the convention who assembled at 
Harrisburg, and afterwards adjourned to Philadelphia, where, on 
the 22d of February, 1838, the present constitution of the state 
was signed, and at the election in October of the same year, was 
adopted by the votes of a majority of the people. 

Since the revolution, the history of Pennsylvania has become 
merged in that of the United States, and from that period we have 
no separate account of the leading public events which more im- 
mediately relate to this state. A work upon the recent history of 
Pennsylvania, in continuation of those which have been written 
concerning its earlier periods, is much to be desired, and ample 
materials exist for such an undertaking. It is hoped that this will 
be attempted by some one of the many whom we have among us 
Well qualified for such a task, and that it will not be long before 
this defect in the annals of our state will be fully supplied. 



22 



HISTORICAL IJVTRODUCTION. 



Governors, Deputies, Presidents, 4'C., of Pennsylvania. 

1682, October, William Penn, proprietor, acted as Governor 
until 

1684, August, Thomas Lloyd, President. 

1688, December, Capt. John Blackwell, Deputy Governor. 

1690, February, President and Council. 

1693, April 26, Benjamin Fletcher, Governor. 

" June 3, William Markham, Deputy Governor. 
1699, December 3, William Penn, again Governor. 
1701, November 1, Andrew Hamilton, Deputy Governor. 

1703, February, President, Edward Shippen, and Council. 

1704, February, John Evans, Deputy Governor. 
1709, February, Charles Gookin, Deputy Governor. 
1717, March, Sir WilHam Keith, Deputy Governor. 
1726, June, Patrick Gordon, Deputy Governor. 
1736, June, James Logan, President, and Council. 
1738, June, George Thomas, Deputy Governor. 

1747, June, Anthony Palmer, President. 

1748, June, James Hamilton, Deputy Governor to June 1754. 
1754, October, Robert Hunter Morris, Deputy Governor. 
1756, August 19, William Denny, Deputy Governor. 

1759, November 17, James Hamilton, Deputy Governor. 
1763, October 31, John Penn, son of Richard Penn. 
1771, May 6, James Hamilton, President, and Council. 

" October 16, Richard Penn, Governor. 
1773, August, John Penn, second time Governor to September 
1776. 
Revolutio7i. 

1777, March, Thomas Wharton, Pres. of Sup. Exec. Council. 

1778, October, Joseph Reed, do. 

1781, November, William Moore, do. 

1782, November, John Dickinson, do. 
1785, October, Benjamin Franklin, do. 
1788, October, Thomas Mifflin, do. 

Governors under the Constitution of the State, 

Elected, 
1817, '' William Findlay. 
" Joseph Hiester. 
" John Andrew Shulze. 

do. 
'' George Wolf. 
" do. 

" Joseph Ritner. 
" David R. Porter. 

do. 

When, where, and by whom, were the earliest settlements made in 
Pennsylvania? Under whose dominion did the territory afterwards fall 
by successive conquests ? What is said of WiUiam Penn ? By whom, and 



Elected 
1790, October, Thomas Mifflin. 



1793, 




do. 


1820, 


1796, 




do. 


1823, 


1799, 




Thomas McKean. 


1826, 


1802, 




do. 


1829, 


1805, 




do. 


1832, 


1808, 




Simon Snyder. 


1835, 


1811, 




do. 


1838, 


1814, 




do. 


1841, 



HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 23 

for what consideration was Pennsylvania granted to him ? What were the 
provisions of the charter? At what rate did he offer the land to pur- 
chasers ? When and where did the first Enghsh emigrants land ? When 
did Penn himself arrive ? Where did the first assembly meet, and what 
laws did they pass ? At what place was a treaty made with the Indians, 
and what is said of it ? What is said of the beginning of Philadelphia? From 
what countries did other emigrants arrive, and where did they settle? 
When did Penn return to England and how did he leave the government ? 
What is said of his trouble and difficulties? What change was made in 
the government, and when was it restored to him ? Relate the circum- 
stances of his second visit and his causes of trouble. What was his dispute 
with Lord Baltimore, and how finally settled ? What were the provisions 
of his new frame of government, and what was done by the three lower 
counties ? In what year did he return to England, how did he dispose of 
the government, and when did he die ? To whom did he leave his interest 
in Pennsylvania, and what was afterwards done with it ? What is said of 
the arrival of emigrants, and where did they settle ? When did Thomas 
and John Penn visit the province ? What is said of the administration of 
Governor Gordon ? What occurred on the breaking out of war between 
Spain and Great Britain ? What was the effect in Pennsylvania of the war 
between France and Great Britain, and what was done by Dr. Franklin ? 
Mention the subjects of dispute with the Indians about lands. What ex- 
tent of country was sold by them in 1749, and for how much ? And by the 
treaty at Albany in 1754 ? What was the consequence of this large grant 
of land ? Where were forts erected by the French ? Who was sent by 
the governor of Virginia to remonstrate with the French commandant ? 
What was done afterwards in consequence of the answer received ? Re- 
late the circumstances of Washington's expedition and surrender. In 
what year was the expedition of Braddock, and what were the events at- 
tending it ? Describe the circumstances of his defeat. What was the 
effect of this in Pennsylvania, and what outrages by the Indians followed ? 
What measures of defence were taken ? Relate the events of Colonel Arm- 
strong's expedition. What was done at the treaty of Easton, and what 
was the conduct of the western Indians? Describe the circumstances of 
the expedition of General Forbes. When and by what cause did the war 
terminate ? What Indian troubles afterwards occurred ? Relate the parti- 
culars of the attack upon the friendly Indians near Conestoga. Who was 
now governor of the province, and why did the assembly resolve to change 
the government ? What was the feehng in Pennsylvania on the intention 
of the British government to tax the colonies ? When was the stamp act 
passed and what was the effect ? Describe on the map the extent of land 
purchased from the Indians in 1768. When was the remainder of the State 
purchased from them ? What led to the disputes with the settlers from 
Connecticut? What occurred in consequence, and how was the matter 
finally settled ? On what subject was there a dispute with Virginia? What 
was the consequence of the determination of the British government to tax 
the colonies? Relate the circumstances attending the formation of the first 
State constitution. When was another constitution agreed upon, and how 
long did it remain in force ? What was done in 1836-7, in relation to amend- 
ing it, and when was the present constitution signed and adopted by the 
people ? 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



PAKT I -OF THE STATE IN GENERAL. 



1. Boundaries, Extent, and Political Divisions. 

Pennsylvania is bounded on the north by New York and Lake 
Erie; on the east by the Delaware river, which separates it from 
New York and New Jersey ; on the south by Delaware, Mary- 
land and Virginia; and on the west by part of Virginia and Ohio. 

Its shape is almost a perfect parallelogram ; its northern and 
southern sides being marked by parallels of latitude and its western 
by a meridian. It extends from 39° 42' to 42° 15' of north lati- 
tude, and from 2° 18' E. to 3° 32' W. longitude from Washing- 
ton, or from 74° 44' to 80° 34' W. from Greenwich, near London. 
Its length is about three hundred and ten miles and its breadth 
one hundred and sixty; containing nearly forty-seven thousand 
square miles, or 30,080,000 acres of land. 

This State is divided into fifty-eight counties, the names of which 
are exhibited in the following table, with the section of the State 
in which they are situated, the dates of their formation, the several 
county towns, and their distance from Harrisburg, the seat of the 
State government. 



Counties. 


Situation. 


JVhen 
formed. 


County town. 


Milesfrom 
Harrisburg^ 


Adams 


South 


1800 


Gettysburg 


34 


Allegheny 


West 


1788 


Pittsburg 


200 


Armstrong 


West 


1800 


Kittaning 


183 


Beaver 


West 


1800 


Beaver 


230 


Bedford 


South 


1771 


Bedford 


105 


Berks 


East 


1752 


Reading 


52 


Bradford 


North 


1810 


Towanda 


128 


Bucks 


Southeast 


1682 


Doylestown 


107 


Butler 


West 


1800 


Butler 


203 


Cambria 


Middle 


1804 


Ebensburg 


131 


Carbon 


East 


1843 


Mauch Chunk 


99 


Centre 


Middle 


1800 


Bellefonte 


85 


Chester 


Southeast 


1682 


West Chester 


75 


Clarion 


West 


1839 


Clarion 


184 


Clearfield 


Middle 


1804 


Clearfield 


129 


Clinton 


Middle 


1839 


Lock Haven 


110 


Columbia 


Middle 


1813 


Danville 


65 


Crawford 


Northwest 


1800 


Meadville 


236 


Cumberland 


Middle 


1750 


Carhsle 


18 


Dauphin 


Middle 


1785 


Harrisburg 


^-m 


Delaware 


Southeast 


1789 


Chester 


95 


Elk 


North 


1843 




— 



25 



26 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



Covnties 


Situation, 


When 
formed. 


Erie 


Northwest 


1800 


Fayette 


Southwest 


1783 


Franklin 


South 


1784 


Greene 


Southwest 


1796 


Huntingdon 


Middle 


1787 


Indiana 


West 


1803 


Jefferson 


Northwest 


1804 


Juniata 


Middle 


1831 


Lancaster 


South 


1729 


Lebanon 


Middle 


1813 


Lehigh 


East 


1812 


Luzerne 


Northeast 


1786 


Lycoming 


North 


1795 


M'Kean 


North 


1804 


Mercer 


West 


1800 


Mifflin 


Middle 


1789 


Monroe 


East 


1836 


Montgomery 


Southeast 


1784 


Northampton 


East 


1752 


Northumberland 


. Middle 


1771 


Perry 


Middle 


1820 


Philadelphia 


Southeast 


1683 


Pike 


Northeast 


1814 


Potter 


North 


1804 


FchuyUiill 


Middle 


181) 


Somerset 


South 


1795 


Susquehanna 


Northeast 


1810 


lioga 


North 


1804 


Union 


Middle 


1813 


Venango 


Northwest 


1800 


Warren 


Northwest 


1800 


Washington 


Southwest 


1781 


Wayne 


Northeast 


1798 


Westmoreland 


Southwest 


1773 


Wyoming 


Northeast 


1842 


York 


South 


1749 



County town. 


Miles from 


Harrishurg. 


Erie 


272 


Uniontown 


184 


Chambersburg 


49 


Waynesburg 


222 


Huntingdon 


90 


Indiana 


157 


Brook villa 


165 


Mifflin 


43 


Lancaster 


36 


Lebanon 


24 


Allentown 


85 


Wilkesbarre 


114 


Williamsport 


87 


Smethport 


200 


Mercer 


235 


Lewistown 


55 


Stroudsburg 


120 


Norristown 


88 


Easton 


101 


Sunbury 


52 


Bloomfield 


36 


Philadelphia 


100 


Milford 


157 


Coudersport 


174 


Orwigsburg 


59 


Somerset 


143 


Montrose 


163 


Wellsboro 


147 


New Berlin 


60 


Franklin 


212 


Warren 


240 


Washington 


212 


Honesdale 


165 


Greensburg 


170 


Tunkhannock 


142 


York 


25 



Boundaries, Extent, ^c. 
How is Pennsylvania bounded ? Between what parallels of latitude and 
meridians of longitude is it situated ? What is its length and breadth ? Its 
area in square miles and in acres ? Into how many counties is it divided ? 



2. Face of the Country : Mountains, Hills, &,c. 

The surface of Pennsylvania presents a highly varied aspect, 
and the traveller who delights in changes of scenery will find 
much to admire as he passes through this State. The wild and 
rugged mountain, the woody hill, the fertile valley, the fruitful 
field and the verdant meadow, will claim his attention in endless 
and varied succession; forming a broad landscape of boundless 
variety and ever changing beauty. 

There are few large tracts of level land in the State, and though 
the southeastern counties cannot be strictly termed hilly, yet the 
surface is undulating and variable. Some elevated ridges of trap 



MOLTNTAINS. 



27 



rock are found in the counties of Bucks and Montgomery, as also 
in Lancaster, York and Adams. The South mountain is the first 
range of any considerable magnitude in this portion of the State : 
it passes from the Delaware, below Easton, through Northampton, 
Lehigh and Berks ; continuing between Lancaster and Lebanon, 
York and Cumberland, Franklin and Adams counties, to the 
Maryland line. Crossing the Potomac at Harper's Ferry, into 
Virginia, it is there called the Blue ridge. On the north of this 
chain we have a comparatively level valley of limestone, stretching 
entirely across the State, with a slate region on the north of it, 
which is more hilly. 

Next to this the Kittatiny or Blue mountain lifts its long, regular 
and almost level crest line of summit, to the height of from seven 
hundred to twelve hundred feet above the level of the streams at its 
base. This ridge extends from the Delaware Water Gap to near 
Loudon, in Franklin county, where it terminates in a high pic- 
turesque elevation, called Parnell's Knob. 




Parnell's Knob. 

North of the Blue mountain, and between the Lehigh and Sus- 
quehanna, is the wild mountainous region where the anthracite 
coal is found. Here are high and barren ridges, in constant and 
close succession, stretching across this soHtary and almost unin- 
habited waste, or winding around, and connecting with each 
other, as they enclose the long narrow pointed valleys. The 
Second and SJiaiy mountains are between the Kittatiny and the 
first coal basin ; then we have the Broad mountain, a huge irre- 
gular elevation, with a broad barren table land on its top, almost 



28 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

destitute of timber, and presenting a fearful picture of wild sterility 
and desert solitude. 

East of the Susquehanna are the high ridges known by the 
names of Peter's, Ben-y's, Bear, Mahontongo and Mahanoy moun- 
tains ', and further northeast, towards the Lehigh, are Buck, 
Spnng, d'een, M'Cauley's and JVescopeck mountains; the latter 
being prolonged nearly to the North branch of Susquehanna, is 
called, at its western end, the Catawissa mountain. Beside those 
already mentioned, there are other ridges and peaks, which may 
be more appropriately noticed in our description of these counties. 

The valley of Wyoming is enclosed by a lofty chain of moun- 
tains, known by many local names: the principal are the Wyo- 
ming and Moosick on the east, and the Shickshinny, Shawney and 
Capons on the west. 

That vast and complicated series of mountains which stretches 
between the Kittatiny or Blue mountain and the Allegheny, has 
been called the Jlppalachian chain. It consists of high and nearly 
parallel ridges, sometimes quite near to each other, and at other 
times having valleys twenty miles in breadth between them; 
these valleys themselves being frequently divided by smaller 
ridges. 

West of the Susquehanna, and northwest of the Kittatiny, the 
first mountain which claims our attention is the Tiiscarora, which 
ranges from the Juniata river along the northwest of Perry 
county, and thence southward, under the name of Cove mountain, 
into Maryland, Beyond this is the Shade mountain in Union and 
Juniata counties ; which, folding sharply round on the south, 
passes again back towards the Juniata under the name of Black 
Log mountain. Jack's mountain rises near New Berlin, in Union 
county, and, pursuing a southwest\;\''ard course, crosses the 
Juniata below Huntingdon, and stretches southward nearly to 
Bedford county. 

The long range called Sideling hill passes from Maryland 
northward through Bedford and Huntingdon counties, extending 
nearly to the Juniata, west of Jack's mountain, below the town 
of Huntingdon ; where, folding round the north end of Trough 
Creek valley, it passes again southward up the Raystown branch 
of Juniata, under the name of Terrace mountain. Between Side- 
ling hill and the Raystown branch is the broad elliptical irregular 
elevation called Broad Top, the summit of which is a wild broken 
region containing bituminous coal. This lies partly in Bedford 
and partly in Huntingdon counties. Further south are Harbour 
mountain, Ray's hill, &c. 

Beyond Jack's mountain, on the west of Mifflin county, and 
north of Huntingdon, we have the Stone and Path mountains ; 
next to which is Tussey's mountain, running from the southeast 
of Centre county, and extending southward through Huntingdon 
and Bedford counties to the southern line of the State. Further 
northwest, in Centre county, are Brush, JYittany and Bald Eagle 
mountains. White Deer mountain forms part of the south line 
of Lycoming county. 



MOUNTAINS. 29 

The Bald Eagle mountain extends along the south side of the 
West branch of Susquehanna to the mouth of Bald Eagle creek, 
being there called Muncy mountain, and then up that stream 
on the southeast, reaching nearly to the Juniata, where it is 
again called Brush mountain. The same range proceeds by a 
winding course further southward into Bedford county, being 
known by different names, such as Canoe mountain. Lock moun- 
tain, and Dimning^s mountain. Beyond these there is no import- 
ant ridge until we come to the great Allegheny, except in the 
southwest part of Bedford and the southeast of Somerset counties ; 
where we have some high ridges extending northward from Ma- 
ryland, west of Tussey's mountain, called Evits', WilVs, Little 
Allegheny and Savage mountains. 

That elevated range which extends nearly across the whole of 
the State under the name of the Great Allegheny mountain is not, 
like most of the others which we have described, a high bold ridge 
with a steep ascent on both sides. It is more properly the steep 
southeastern front or escarpment of a high table land, which, on 
the northwest and west, has a scarcely perceptible descent ; being 
a high undulating surface, gradually declining westward. The 
Allegheny mountain is first perceptible on the North branch of the 
Susquehanna, about thirty miles above Wilkesbarre, where it is 
called Timkhannock mountain. It then ranges westward through 
Luzerne and the north part of Columbia counties, being there 
called the A'brth mountain ; passes through Lycoming county and 
crosses the West branch near Farrandsville, above the mouth of 
Bald Eagle creek. It is now known by the name of Allegheny, 
and passes through Clinton and Centre to the northwest corner of 
Huntingdon county. Still ranging on to the southwest, it forms 
the line between Huntingdon and Cambria, Bedford and Somerset 
counties, until, passing across the southeastern part of Somerset, 
it enters the state of Maryland. 

Still west of the Allegheny we have, betAveen Somerset on the 
east and Fayette and Westmoreland counties on the west, a high 
ridge called Laurel hill, which gradually sinks away on the north 
and terminates in Cambria county. Beyond this, coming into 
Fayette county from Virginia, is Chestnut ridge, sometimes erro- 
neously also called Laurel hill in its southern part near the State 
line. This ridge extends through Fayette and Westmoreland into 
Indiana county, where it also terminates on the north. 

Most of the country west of the Allegheny mountain is hilly ; 
but the hills are abrupt and irregular — not owing to the disturb- 
ance or upheaving of great lines of rock strata, like the Appala- 
chian mountain ridges, but being caused principally by the action 
of the streams, which have worn deep ravines along their courses. 
Many of these hills are steep and precipitous, some of them several 
hundred feet in height, and the whole region is intersected in 
every direction by these deep channels and valleys of denudation. 
The rock strata appear along their sides in a nearly horizontal 
position, and it is a very common occurrence to observe a coal 
seam high in the hill side along one of these deep valleys, with its 

3* 



30 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

counterpart on the opposite hill at about the same height ; thus 
showing conclusively that the valley has been worn down by the 
action of the waters. 

V 

Face of the cou?itry, mountains, ^c. 

What is said of the general face of the country in Pennsylvania ? Of 
that in the southeastern counties? Describe the situation and extent of 
the South mountain. Of the Kittatiny or Blue mountain. What is the 
character of the country between the Lehigh and the Susquehanna ? What 
mountains are mentioned ? Name those east of the Susquehanna ; — and 
those towards the Lehigh. What mountains surround the Wyoming val- 
ley? What is the general name of the chain between the Blue mountain 
and the Allegheny ? Where is the Tuscarora mountain ? Shade ? Jack's ? 
Sideling hill? Broad Top? Stone? Path? and Tussey's mountain? 
What mountains are in Centre county? Describe the range of the Bald 
Eagle mountain, and by what names is it called lurther southward? What 
ridges extend from Maryland into Bedford and Somerset counties ? Men- 
tion the principal features of the Allegheny mountain- Describe its extent 
from northeast to southwest. What are the two principal ridges west of 
the Allegheny mountain? Describe the general character of the country 
west of the Allegheny. What has caused the deep channels between the 
hUls? 



3. Rivers. 

The waters of almost every spring and brook in Pennsylvania 
find their way to the ocean through one or the other of its three 
great rivers, the Delaivare, the Susquehanna, and the Ohio. Some 
small streams in a few of the southern counties run through 
Maryland into the Potomac ; but only a very small portion of the 
state is drained by that channel. Most of our rivers and creeks 
have happily retained their original Indian names : a circumstance 
rather to be deemed fortunate when we consider the taste mani- 
fested by the early settlers in changing some of them to such 
names as Yellow breeches. Kettle creek. Bloody run, Bullskin, 
Big creek. Black hole and I3ear wallow. 

The Delaware received its present name from the English, being 
called by some tribes of Indians Poutaxat, and by others Makens- 
kitton. This river rises in the state of New York, by several 
branches, which unite near the northeastern corner of Pennsyl- 
vania, and thence flowing southeastward, it forms the boundary 
line between this state and New York for about fifty miles to the 
northwestern corner of New Jersey. Here it turns southwest- 
ward, between Pennsylvania and New Jersey, and passes through 
the Blue mountain at the Delaware Water Gap. Here a magni- 
ficent view of sublime and grand natural scenery is presented. 
The mountain rising from one thousand to twelve hundred feet on 
either side, seems to have been torn asunder by the rushing waters, 
and towering rocky precipices rear their gray and naked summits 
almost perpendicular from the edge of the river. From the top 
of the mountain you see spread below you on the south, a bound- 
less extent of landscape, stretching as far as the eye can reach 



RIVERS. 31 

over the woody hills and cultivated plains of Pennsylvania and 
New Jersey, with the beautiful river in its winding and distant 
course gleaming in the sunlight like a broad band of polished 
silver. And this is but one of the many wild and magnificent 
scenes with which the interior of our State abounds. If those 
who quit, for a time, the toils of business in the city during the 
heat of summer, could consent to forsake their accustomed 
fashionable resorts at Cape May, Saratoga, and other crowded but 
uninteresting places, and take a ramble through the mountain re- 
gions of our own State, they would return with renewed health, 
gratified, delighted and improved by a more thorough knowledge 
of the beauties and resources of Pennsylvania. 




Delaware Water Gap. 

From the Water Gap the Delaware runs southward to Easton, 
where it receives the Lehigh. Its course is then towards the 
southeast as far as Trenton, where it again bends to the south- 
west, and passing Philadelphia, reaches the line of Delaware State 
twelve miles above New Castle. From this to the Delaware bay 
it separates the states of Delaware and New Jersey. The length 
of this river is upwards of three hundred miles. The tide flows 
up it to Trenton, about one hundred and fifty miles from the sea. 
It is navigable for large ships to Philadelphia, for sloops to Tren- 
ton, and for boats nearly one hundred miles further ; but since the 
construction of the canal from Bristol to Easton, the trade by river 
boats has much declined. Above Trenton the river is obstructed 
by several rocky rapids, called falls; though when the water is 
high large quantities of lumber descend in rafts. 

The principal streams falling into the Delaware from Pennsyl- 



32 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

vania, are the Lackawaxen, the Lehigh, and the Schuylkill, The 
Lackawaxen is a small river which rises chiefly in Wayne county, 
and empties into the Delaware about twenty miles above the New 
Jersey line. 

The Lehigh (Lechay of the Indians) is a wild, beautiful and 
rapid stream, flowing through a mountain region for many miles 
of its course, supplied by springs and lakes hidden in the deep 
and solitary recesses of the pine swamps and forests of Luzerne, 
Pike, and Monroe counties. Passing Mauch Chunk, its general 
course is southeastward to Allentown, in Lehigh county, where it 
turns abruptly eastward and flows along the northern side of the 
South mountain, until it meets the DelaAvare at Easton. Its 
length is about eighty miles. The coal and lumber trade on the 
improved navigation of this river is of great value and increasing 
importance. 

The Schuylkill seems to have received its present name from the 
Dutch or Swedes : the Indians called it Mamiiunk. It rises by 
several branches among the coal mountains of Schuylkill county, 
and flowing southeastward about one hundred and thirty miles, 
fafls into the Delaware, five miles below Philadelphia. The tide 
flows up this river about six miles to the dam at Fair Mount wa- 
ter works, and it is navigable for vessels of considerable burthen 
to the western front of the city, where a large amount of coal is 
shipped. 

The next great river of Pennsylvania, and the largest in the 
State, is the Susquehanna, which is formed by the union of two 
main branches at Northumberland. From this its course is south- 
ward to the mouth of the Juniata, where it turns a little more 
southeast and pursues a general course in that direction to the 
Maryland line, which it crosses, and empties into the Chesapeake 
bay below Havre de Grace. This river is diversified by many 
picturesque and beautiful little islands, and the scenery along its 
banks is of the most pleasing and varied character. Its breadth is 
very unequal, sometimes exceeding a mile, and then contracting 
between rocky cliffs to less than a quarter of a mile. The channel 
is much obstructed by rocky rapids, Avhich prevent navigation 
except at high water. During the spring freshets, however, a 
vast quantity of lumber descends in rafts, and many arks laden 
with grain, flour, iron and other productions of the interior and 
northern counties. 

The JVorth branch of Susquehanna is formed by the junction 
of the East branch and Tioga rivers at Tioga Point, near the New 
York line. From this place its course is southeastward until it 
enters the Wyoming valley, ten miles above Wilkesbarre, where 
it receives the Lackawana, and turning to the southwest, continues 
that course to Northumberland. 

The West branch of Susquehanna rises beyond the AUegheny 
mountain in Cambria and Clearfield counties, flows eastward and 
receives the Sinnemahoning, Pine creek (Tiadaghton) and other 
large streams from the north. The Bald Eagle creek empties 
into it from the south near Lock Haven. It continues an east- 



RIVERS. 33 

ward course by Williamsport to Muncy or Pennsborough, where 
it bends to the south for some distance^ then turns a httle south- 
east, and unhes with the North branch at Northumberland. 

The Juniata has its sources in and near the Allegheny moun- 
tain, in Huntingdon and Bedford counties ; its main streams being 
the Frankstown branch from the west, and the Raystown branch 
from the south. It is a very crooked river, winding among the 
mountains which rise boldly from its banks, and affording to the 
traveller some of the most picturesque and romantic views in 
Pennsylvania. Its general course is eastward, and it empties 
into the Susquehanna at Duncan's island, sixteen miles above 
Harrisburg. 

Most of that portion of Pennsylvania which lies west of the 
Allegheny mountain is drained by the waters of the Ohio. The 
two main branches of this river, called the Allegheny and the Mo- 
nongahela, unite at Pittsburg ; from which the Ohio flows north- 
westward twenty-five miles to Beaver, where it receives Beaver 
river from the north; then bending south westward, it passes out 
of Pennsylvania and continues between Virginia and Ohio. 

The Allegheny river is the northern branch of the Ohio, and is 
formed by several tributary streams, some of which rise in the 
northern counties of Pennsylvania and others in the southwestern 
part of New York. From the State line, where it forms the 
boundary between Warren and M'Kean counties, its course is 
southwestward to Franklin in Venango county, where it receives 
French creek from the northwest; then turning southward, it is 
augmented by the waters of Clarion, Red Bank and Kiskiminetas 
or Conemaugh, which fall into it from the east, and, again bend- 
ing southwest, it meets the Monongahela at Pittsburg. 

The Clan-ion river runs from the northeastern part of Jefferson 
county, in a southwestern direction, until it empties into the Alle- 
gheny, The Red Bank passes nearly through the middle of Jef- 
ferson county, and running westward, forms the boundary be- 
tween Armstrong and Clarion counties till it empties into the 
Allegheny. The Conemaugh rises on the western slope of the 
Allegheny mountain in Somerset and Cambria counties, runs a 
little north of west, and joins the Allegheny river near the south- 
east corner of Butler county. 

The Monongahela, or southern branch of Ohio, flows north- 
ward from Virginia, and passes into Pennsylvania between Fay- 
ette and Greene counties. It has many bends in its course, bat its 
general direction is northward, until it meets the Youghiogeny at 
M'Keesport, from which it runs northwest to Pittsburg. 

The Vonghiogeny comes from the western part of Maryland, 
crosses the State line, and running northward between Somerset 
and Fayette counties, unites with Castleman's river below 
Smithfield, from which its coarse is northwest to- its junction 
with the Monongahela. Castleman's is a small river, rising in 
the southern part of Somerset county and running westward to 
the Youghiogeny. 



34 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The smaller streams will be noticed in our description of the 
several counties in which they are situated. 

Through what great rivers do the waters of Pennsylvania find their way 
to the ocean? Where does the Delaware rise, and what is its course to 
the Water Gap of the Blue mountain ? From this to the southern line of 
the State ? What is its length, and how far up does the tide flow ? What 
is said of its navigation ? Name the principal branches of the Delaware. 
What is said of the Lehigh, of its course and length ? Give a general de- 
scription of the Schuylkill. Of the Susquehanna from Northumberland to 
Chesapeake bay. What is said of its navigation? Describe the North 
branch. The West branch. Where does the Juniata rise ? What is its 
course, and where does it empty ? What are the two main branches of the 
Ohio, and where do they unite ? Mention the rise and general course of 
the Allegheny river. What streams empty into it ? What is said of the 
Clarion, Red Bank and Conemaugh? Give a description of the Monon- 
gahela. Where does the Youghiogeny rise ? What is its course, and 
into what river does it empty? Where is Castleman's river ? 



4. Soil. 



The soil of a country is formed by the disintegration or decay 
of its rocks, which being subject to the action of water, frost, and 
other atmospheric influences, gradually wear away, or crumble 
and become pulverised to different degrees of fineness. It is 
therefore evident that soils must differ in their characters and qua- 
lities, according to the nature of the rocks from which they have 
been derived. But the action of floods, and even the more gra- 
dual operation of heavy rains, have so washed down and inter- 
mixed the matter from the decomposed rocks, that we seldom find 
a soil formed purely from a single stratum, or variety of rock. 
This is a beneficial provision of nature, as the mixture of several 
elements in a soil is essential to its fertility. 

The earthy portion of soils is seldom less than ninety-five per 
cent, of their whole weight ; the rest being made up of decayed 
organic matter, and various saline or soluble substances. This 
earthy portion consists chiefly of silica, in the form of sand of 
various degrees of fineness 5 alumina, in the form of clay; and 
lime, mostly in the form of carbonate of lime. Most soils contain 
from one to two per cent, of the oxide of iron, and those of a red 
colour frequently more. 

A soil is called sandy, in which silicious sand predominates ; 
clayey, when alumina forms a considerable portion ; and calca- 
reous, where carbonate of lime is contained in considerable abund- 
ance, as in some of our limestone districts. A sandy soil contains 
ninety per cent., or more, of sand; a sandy loam from sixty to 
ninety ; a loamy soil from thirty to sixty, and a clayey soil has 
from fifteen to thirty per cent, of fine sand, which may be sepa- 
rated from it by washing. Pure clay, which, apparently, contains 
no sand, is a compound of siUca and alumina, in the proportion 



SOIL. 35 

of about sixty of the former, to thirty of the latter. It will, there- 
fore, be seen that silica is the leading constituent in all soils. 

Something more is necessary, however, beside these simple 
earths in the formation of a fertile soil, which should contain all 
the inorganic substances necessary for the food of plants, and 
which are essential to their existence, in sufficient quantity, and in 
such condition as allows them to be absorbed by the roots. It is 
accordingly found, by a chemical analysis of productive soils, that 
in addition to these earths, they contain various alkaline and other 
substances, such as potash, soda, chlorine, &c., together with 
combinations containing sulphuric, phosphoric, and other acids, 
as well as several organic substances, derived from the decompo- 
sition of vegetable and animal matter. 

The same proportion of ingredients in a soil is not required by 
all plants; for we find that different vegetable productions extract 
from the soil different quantities of each of these constituents. 
The ashes afforded from many kinds of plants have been carefully 
analyzed by Sprengel, and other chemists, for the purpose of as- 
certaining the proportions of inorganic matter contained in them, 
which are derived from the soil. From these experiments it ap- 
pears that the ashes from one thousand pounds of wheat (straAV 
containing the grain) weigh about twenty-seven and a half pounds ; 
from the same quantity of rye, twenty-three and a half pounds ; 
from oats, forty-five and one-third pounds ; from red clover hay, 
seventy -four and three-fourth pounds ; and from the same weight 
of potatoes eight and a quarter pounds. In these weights of ashes 
from one thousand pounds of each plant mentioned, were con- 
tained as foUows : 

Wheat. Rye. Oats. Clover Hay Potatoes. 

Silica, 20.67 lbs. 17.64 lbs. 36.09 lbs. 3.61 lbs. 0.08 lbs. 

Alumina, 0.69 " 0.34 " 0.09 " 0.14 " 0.05 " 

Magnesia, 0.51 " 0.20 " 0.39 " 3.33 " 0.32 " 

Lime, 1.92 " 1.34 " 1.27 " 27.80 " 0.33 " 

Potash, 0.88 " ? , ^^ <, 56.00 " 19.95 " 4.03 " 

Soda, 0.99 "5 ^'^'^ ^0.51 " 5.29 " 2.33 ' 

Sulphuric acid, 0.40 " 1.33 " 0.62 " 4.47 " 0.54 " 

Phosphoric acid,1.25 " 0.49 " 0.35 " 6.57 " 0.40 '* 

Chlorine, 0.24 " 0.15 " 0.07 " 3.62 " 0.16 " 

Now, in order to show the quantity of each of these ingredients 
which is exhausted from the soil of an acre of land by a single crop, 
we will suppose it to produce twenty-five bushels of wheat or rye, 
fifty bushels of oats, one and a half tons of dj-w clover hay, or 
seven and a half tons of potatoes. We assume the weight of the 
straw in w^heat to be double that of the grain ; in rye three times 
as much ; and in oats the grain to be to the straw as three to five. 
The weight of vegetable matter in the crop from each acre will 
then be, of wheat forty-five hundred ; of rye six thousand ; of oats 
four thousand; of dry clover three thousand; and of potatoes 
fifteen thoiasand pounds. These will have extracted from the soil 
during their growth, as follows : 



36 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Wheat. Rye. Oats. Clover Hay. Potatoes. 

Silica 93.01 lbs. 105.84 lbs. 144.36 lbs. 10.83 lbs. 1.20 lbs. 

Alumina, 3.10 '« 2.10 " 0.36 " 0.42 " 0.75 *' 

Magnesia, 2.29 " 1.20 " 1.56 " 9.99 *« 4.80 " 

Lime, 8.64 " 8.04 " 5.08 •' 83.40 " 4.95 '' 

Potash, 3.96 "? go. u 524.00 " 59.85 " 60.45 '' 

Soda 4.95 "S i 2.04 " 15.87 " 34.95 " 

Sulphuric acid, 1.80 " 7.98 " 2.48 " 13.41 " 8.10 " 

Phosphoric acid, 5.62 " 2.95 " 1.40 '' 19.71 " 6.00 '« 

Chlorine, 1.08 " 0.90 " 0.28 " 10.86 " 2.40 " 

In the economy of agriculture it willj, therefore, be necessary in 
order to maintain the fertility of the soil, to add to it, as manure 
in some form, an amount of each ingredient equal to that extract- 
ed by the crop. Most soils, however, contain a sufficiency of 
silica, and alumina, without further addition ; — lime, potash, soda, 
&c., with decomposed vegetable and animal matter being those 
most required. It may be assumed as a general principle that if 
the addition of any article to the soil as a manure renders it more 
fertile, it is because the soil was deficient in some substance which 
the manure contained. 

Most of our unproductive soils are found to be deficient in lime j 
hence the addition of this substance, when properly applied, 
greatly improves them. Many of our rocks which are not lime- 
stones contain a certain proportion of carbonate of lime in their 
composition ; for this reason we often find a fertile soil where 
there is no limestone. 

The substratum below the soil has an important influence on 
its fertility ; for if it be gravelly, sandy or open, the water filters 
through it too readily and carries off much of the lime or other 
stimulants to vegetation which the soil may contain. If, on the 
contrary, the substratum be a tenacious clay, the soil will be wet 
and cold, retaining too much water, excluding the air, and not 
suffering the fibres of roots to penetrate it freely. 

The various shades of colour in soils — red, brown, yellow, &c., 
are produced by different proportions and modifications of the 
oxide of iron contained in them ; while the dark colour of newly 
cleared soils and low grounds is commonly due to decayed vege- 
table matter. 

From what has been already said with regard to soils partaking 
of the character of the rocks from which they are derived, it will 
be seen that Pennsylvania contains a great variety. 

The alluvial soils in the flats along the streams are generally a 
mixture of various ingredients, carried down and deposited by the 
waters. When these are not too sandy, and contain a sufficient 
amount of decomposed vegetable matter, they are usually very 
productive and highly valued by the agriculturist. Diluvial 
soils are those deposited by the waters of a deluge, and are com- 
monly found in the lower grounds, but sometimes form small 
hills, mounds or ridges : these, of course, partake of the qualities 
of the different regions from which they have been brought. 
They are sometimes much mixed with pebbles or gravely and are 



SOIL. 37 

too light and open, the rains filtering through them readily, and 
carrying down the manure which is spread upon the surface. 
Sometimes, also, they are clayey or wet, being of too close a tex- 
ture to admit the free passage of the water through them. 

In the southeastern portion of the Slate, where the primary 
rocks abound, the soil is not naturally so fertile as in some 
other parts; but having received more careful cultivation, has 
been rendered generally productive. The ranges of primary rock 
which contain feldspar, mica and hornblende, usually afford a 
tolerable soil, the decomposition of these rocks yielding a little Hme, 
potash or soda. The talcose slates are generally covered by a 
poorer soil, on account probably of the excess of magnesia, which 
is supposed to be unfavourable to vegetation. 

The middle secondary red sandstone and red shale formation, 
which extends through Bucks, Montgomery, parts of Chester, 
Lancaster, Berks, Dauphin, York and Adams counties, is a good 
soil when properly farmed. This rock usually contains a portion 
of lime in its composition, and small white veins are often seen 
in it, which are carbonate of lime. The wells dug in this red 
shale commonly yield " hard water," or that which decomposes 
the soap used in washing : this is usually owing to the presence 
of lime in the water, in a state of combination with an acid. 
There are, however, within the range of this formation many 
large tracts where the rock has been changed, by causes which 
will be explained in our article on the geology of the State, from 
a soft red to a hard dark blue or brown rock ; here the soil is less 
fertile, being commonly heavy, clayey and wet. 

It is in the limestone valleys that Ave find the most productive 
soil in Pennsylvania, and that which most liberally rewards the 
farmer for his labour; though sometimes in very dry seasons these 
soils suffer more from drought than others, particularly where the 
rock is near the surface. The difliculty of obtaining water is often 
very great in some parts of our hmestone formations ; for the rock 
below the soil being traversed by large fissures and cavities, fre- 
quently perhaps also containing subterranean caverns, allows the 
water to sink to immense depths. Wells are often dug from eighty 
to one hundred feet deep without obtaining a permanent supply of 
water, which thus eluding the search of man, finds its way through 
hidden passages until having accumulated in some vast subterra- 
nean reservoir, it gushes forth in enormous springs, forming at 
once a stream of sufficient power to turn mills or other heavy 
machinery. From this cause the small springs and brooks which 
are so abundant in other formations, are comparatively rare in the 
great limestone region. 

The slate formation adjoining the limestone (see Geology, III.) 
IS usually rather a light and thin soil; but by the addition of lime 
and other manures may be rendered productive. 

The red and variegated shale formation, with its accompanying 
belt of limestone (V. and VI.) afford an excellent soil for tillage, 
and many fine farms are located on various parts of their range 
through the valleys of the middle counties. 

4 



.38 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

On the olive slate and the red and gray sandstone, (VIII. and 
IX.) we find a tolerably good soil when newly cleared ; but after 
long farming it requires good husbandry and frequent manuring 
to keep it productive. Except where the slate and red shale pre- 
dominate, the land on this series of rocks is apt to be rough and 
stony. 

The red shale formation (XI.) nearest the coal basins, where the 
valleys are sufficiently extensive for cultivation, affords a soil that 
is worthy of attention from the farmer; and being situated gen- 
erally between barren mountains, offers, where improved and cul- 
tivated, a pleasing contrast to the general wildness and sterility 
which surrounds it. 

The land upon the white and gray sandstones (I. IV. X. and 
XII.) is the most sterile and unproductive in the State; being a 
meagre, yellow, sandy or sometimes clayey soil, and one which, 
if its stony and rough character did not repel the husbandman, 
would yield him but a slender reward for his labour. 

Within the bituminous coal region west of the Allegheny 
mountain are many large tracts of excellent land. Until we recede 
some miles west of the mountain, the country is hilly and rough ; 
and even to our western borders it continues rolling and uneven. 
The more level tracts of low ground along the streams are highly 
fertile, and the soil of many of the hills, when cultivated, produces 
luxuriantly. The many strata of limestone which lie between the 
beds of coal impart their fertilizing influence, and the decayed 
vegetable matter of a thousand years also lends its aid to enrich this 
prolific soil. The importance of good farming is beginning to be 
understood in this section of the State; and though agriculture in 
this comparatively new region is not yet conducted with so great 
a degree of neatness and attention as in the older settled counties, 
yet many beautiful and productive farms gladden the eye of the 
observant traveller in passing through western Pennsylvania. 

How is the soil of a country formed? What occasions the difference of 
soils ? Of what three elements is a soil chiefly composed ? What consti- 
tutes a sandy soil ? Clayey? Calcareous? In what proportion is sand 
foi\nd in different soils ? VVhat is necessary beside earthy matter to make 
a productive soil ? Do all plants require the same kind of soil ? Why not 1 
What is necessary to maintain the fertility of a soil ? What substances are 
most required in manures ? Why does manure ren'fler the soil more pro- 
ductive ? What ingredient is wanting in most of our unproductive soils ? 
What is said of the substratum below the soil ? To what is the colour of 
soils owing ? What is the character of alluvial soils ? Of diluvial ? What 
is said of the soil of the primary rocks in the southeastern counties? Of 
the middle secondary red shale and sandstone ? Of the limestone valleys ? 
Why is water sometimes scarce in limestone regions ? What is the cha- 
racter of slate soils ? Of the soil of the red and variegated shale formation ? 
Of the olive slate and its accompanying sandstones? Of the red shale val- 
leys surrounding the coal basins ? Ofcertain white and gray sandstones ? 
What is said of the country west of the Allegheny mountain ? Mention 
two causes which render parts of this region fertile. What is said of its 
agriculture ? 



CLIMATE. 39 



5. Climate. 



The climate of Pennsylvania, though it may in general be justly 
termed healthy and temperate, is so variable and inconstant, and 
differing so much in one year with another, as to be somewhat 
difficult to describe. It seems to be admitted, however, that the 
extremes of heat and cold in the older settled counties are not so 
great as they were many years ago, which, if true, may be in con- 
sequence of the removal of large bodies of forest from the surface 
of the country and the great increase of cultivated land. To the 
same cause may be attributed the apparent diminution of the 
quantity of water in many of the springs and streams, as in a 
cleared country the evaporation of moisture from the surface is 
much greater than in forests where the foliage of a thick growth 
of timber shades the ground. In thickly wooded regions evapora- 
tion is thus retarded, the soil is kept moist and the water of rains 
filters sloAvly through the ground until it finds its way through 
springs again to the surface. 

It has been observed by a writer on the subject of our climate 
that "■ there seems to be a line about the forty-first degree of lati- 
tude, beyond which the winters are steady and regular, the earth 
being seldom without a covering of snow during the winter 
months." This, however, is probably more owing to the greater 
elevation of the country in the northern part of the State than to a 
difference of latitude ; for we find on the high table land beyond 
the Allegheny mountain, in the southern part of the State, and in 
the same latitude as Philadelphia, but little difference from the 
climate of those northern counties which are not so much elevated. 
A series of meteorological observations was authorised by an 
act of the legislature in 1837, to be conducted under the direction 
of the Franklin Institute of Philadelphia, and intended to be made 
in each county of the State. Thermometers, barometers and rain 
guages were furnished to observers in most of the counties, with 
directions for use and blank forms for entering the results of their 
observations. It is a subject of regret that the returns of these ob- 
servations are not more perfect, and that in some counties they 
have been either entirely neglected or performed in so loose a 
manner as to be nearly useless. The results as obtained have 
been published monthly in the Journal of the Franklin Institute, 
and notwithstanding the imperfections noticed, embody a large and 
interesting amount of useful information concerning the meteoro- 
logical phenomena of Pennsylvania for a series of several years. 
With a view of showing the extremes of heat and cold, the 
average temperature, and the quantity of rain falling in different 
parts of the State, we select the following places in which obser- 
vations have been made for several years. The account of the 
rain which fell appears to have been so imperfectly recorded that 
we shall omit it, except for a few of the places mentioned. 

The mark — , placed before the minimum temperature, signifies 
below zero. 



40 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 









Max, 


Min. 




Rain in 




T nfit-iAa 


temp. 


temp. 


Mean temp. 


inches 




J-iUll 




1841. 


1841. 


1839-40-41. 


1841. 


Gettysburg, 


39° 


49' 


93° 


—10° 


51.36° for 3 yrs. 




Philadelphia, 


39 


57 


97 


3 


52.15 " 3 " 


55.5 


Somerset, 


40 


00 


85 


—10 


48.00 " 2 " 




Lancaster, 


40 


03 


93 


— 7 


51.96 " 3 " 


37.4 


Newtown, 


40 


14 


90 


1 


51.19 " 3 " 


57.3 


Huntingdon, 


40 


31 


98 


—16 


51.29 " 2 " 




Pittsburg, 


40 


32 


98 


— 6 


53.01 " 1841 


35.9 


Port Carbon, 


40 


44 


100 


—20 


48.94 " 3 " 




Northumberland, 


40 


53 


91 


—21 


50.50 " 3 " 


39.7 


Bellefonte, 


40 


55 


95 


—25 


48.88 " 3 " 




Stroudsburg, 


41 


00 


94 


—16 


49.15 " 3 " 




Smethport, 


41 


49 


90 


—18 


44.28 " 3 " 




Silver Lake, 


41 


57 


93 


—10 


47.25 " 3 " 




Erie, 


42 


07 


91 


— 1 


48.42 " 2 " 





The greatest heat usually occurs in July, and the extreme of 
cold in January. In the southeastern and southwestern counties 
the winter does not set in with severity until the latter part of De- 
cember, and commonly begins to moderate in February. In the 
latter part of this month, or early in March, the snow disappears, 
and in the beginning of April vegetation commences. At this sea- 
son, however, the atmosphere is often damp, chilly or stormy, and 
until the beginning of May there are frequent returns of cloudy, 
wet and disagreeable weather. Owing to these changes and to 
the variable nature of our spring seasons, vegetation advances very 
unequally in different years; and the promising appearance of the 
fruit trees in an early spring is often blasted by frosts in April or 
May, 

In the northern and more elevated portions of the State, winter 
commences early in December, and the snows are deeper and more 
enduring than in the lower country, seldom melting in theAvinter, 
and generally covering the ground until the latter end of March. 
About the beginning, or towards the middle of April, there is 
usually a week or ten days of warm pleasant weather, which dis- 
solves the snow and creates the spring freshets in our streams. 
The weather is damp, and occasionally cold, until the middle of 
May, about which time vegetation becomes active and the trees 
begin to put forth their leaves. Frost often appears in September, 
and is sometimes seen in June. The heat of summer during the 
day is nearly as intense here as in the less elevated parts of the 
State ; but the mornings and evenings are much cooler, and in the 
summer nights a blanket is frequently no uncomfortable covering 
for a bed. 

The autumn is usually the most pleasant season in all parts of 
the State. The mornings and evenings become cool about the 
first of September, and with the exception of a few warm days in 
that month, the temperature is moderate. A period of delightfully 
pleasant weather, with an atmosphere clear and serene, except a 
slightly hazy or smoky appearance, continues until towards the 
middle of October, with an almost imperceptible increase of cold. 



CLIMATE. 41 

Tliis weather is then commonly interrupted by frequent rains 
which herald the approach of winter, and white frosts become 
common at night. It is said to be an old Indian maxim, that the 
severity of the winter is in proportion to the quantity of rain which 
falls during the autumn. During the clear cold weather of winter 
the wind generally comes from the northwest; and in the same 
season during storms of snow and rain or damp weather, from the 
northeast. In the country west of the mountains easterly winds 
and storms are less frequent than on the Atlantic coast. 

In summer the prevailing winds are from the southwest, and at 
most seasons this may be seen to be the direction of the upper 
currents of air by observing the motion of the highest clouds in the 
atmosphere. In July and August thunder showers are common 
after a few days of intensely hot weather ; when these fail to occur 
periods of drought sometimes ensue which are very injurious to the 
summer crops, and in some parts of the State occasion a scarcity 
of water in the wells and springs. 

During the rapid thaws of spring the wind is generally from 
the south or southeast, which brings us a warm current of air 
from the Gulf stream, passing along our coast from the Gulf of 
Mexico northward. A sudden dissolution of the snow then takes 
place, which frequently causes destructive floods in the streams. 
A strong and continued south wind in the winter sometimes pro- 
duces this effect in those parts of the State nearest the ocean. 
In January 1841, the Delaware and Lehigh were so swelled by 
the sudden melting of the snow as to sweep away most of the 
bridges across them, besides destroying many miles of canal along 
both rivers and carrying away an immense amount of lumber, 
buildings and other property on their banks. 

What is the general character of our climate ? By what cause is it sup- 
posed to have been somewhat changed ? What other effect may have been 
produced by clearing off the timber, and why ? Is the cUmate affected by 
the elevation of the country ? In what months do the extremes of heat and 
cold usually occur ? VVhat is said of the winter and spring seasons in the 
southeastern and southwestern counties ? In the northern and more ele- 
vated parts of the state ? Of the summer in this region ? Which is the 
most pleasant season, and what is said of it ? Mention the course of the 
prevailing winds in winter. In summer. When are thunder showers 
most common ? What frequently produces rapid thaws in spring ? What 
is the consequence of the sudden melting of deep snows ? When and 
where did a destructive flood occur from this cause ? 



6. Geology. 

The limits and design of a work like the present will prevent 
us from giving more than a mere general sketch of the highly in- 
teresting and varied geological features of Pennsylvania. Some 
of the more minute details, as well as an account of the ores, min- 
erals, coals, &c., will be given when we come to a description of 

the separate counties. 

4* 



42 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The various geological formations which we shall describe, are 
composed of successive strata or layers of rock, one resting upon 
another, from the primary or lowest in the series, up to the rocks 
containing the anthracite and bituminous coal, which are the 
highest in the regular ascending order found in the State. If 
rocks more recent than the coal occur, they occupy only limited 
areas, where they have been deposited since the formation of that 
vast system of lower secondary strata which occupy nearly the 
whole of our territory. 

It will be seen by the most superficial observer, in travelling 
through Pennsylvania, that the course or range of the various 
groups and beds of rock is in a direction nearly northeast and 
southwest; corresponding with the course of the mountain ridges 
which extend through the State. If he attends to the position of 
the strata, or various layers of rock, he will see that their horizontal 
inclination is by no means the same in different places, and that 
they vary by every degree of slope, from level to perpendicular. 
This slope or inclination is called by geologists the dip of the rock, 
and is of great importance in determining the order of superpo- 
sition. 

The stratified rocks of the secondary series being sedimentary, 
formed by a succession of deposits from water, we must suppose 
that originally they lay in nearly a horizontal position. The stand- 
ing and tranquil waters deposited mud at their bottom, which 
hardened by pressure and by drying, aided, perhaps, by internal 
heat, at length became slate, or shale ; or if calcareous became a 
limestone : waters in gentle motion left sand only beneath them, 
which finally cementing formed sandstones, fine or coarse, accor- 
ding to the velocity of the current ; while streams or tides in rapid 
motion carried away most of the sand, leaving a mass of pebbles 
at the bottom, which at last, by the same great solidifying process 
of nature, became coarse conglomerates. This process of deposits 
from tranquil waters and different currents, varying in endless suc- 
cession through indefinite periods of time, would naturally pro- 
duce the variety of strata which constitute our whole system of 
sedimentary rocks. The varieties of colour are owing, generally, 
to different proportions and modifications of the oxides of iron 
and other metals. In order to account for the different degrees of 
inclination, or slope, which we observe in the strata, we must im- 
agine a series of uplifting actions from central forces, similar to 
the volcano or the earthquake, moving in a direction from north- 
east to southwest, upheaving the great mountain ridges, breaking 
up the strata from their former nearly horizontal position, and 
heaving and tilting them into the variety of disturbed positions in 
which they are now found. 

The southeastern portion of Pennsylvania, including the 
southern part of Bucks and Montgomery, the whole of Phila- 
delphia and Delaware, with the southern portions of Chester, 
Lancaster, and York counties, is occupied by rocks belonging to 
the stratified primary class. These consist chiefly of gneiss, mica 
slate, talc slate, and their subordinate varieties : the unstratified 



GEOLOGY. 43 

rocks of a crystalline structure, such as granite, sienite, &c., being 
found in small local and irregular veins, principally in the southern 
portion of the primary range. The primary rocks extend on the 
Delaware river from Trenton downwards to the southern boundary 
of the State, and along it westward to the southeastern part of 
Adams county. Northward of this triangular primary belt is the 
limestone of Chester and Montgomery couniies, which is more or 
less crystalline, sometimes being marble, and which is also referred 
to the primary class. Still northward of this limestone, we find in 
some places a considerable extent of gneiss, with talc and mica 
slate. 

Proceeding farther northward, we come to the red sandstone for- 
mation, which stretches across the State from the Delaware river 
above Trenton, to the Maryland line, passing through the counties 
of Bucks, Montgomery, Chester, Berks, Lancaster, Dauphin, 
York and Adams. This group of rocks has been referred to the 
middle secondary period, and is of remarkable uniformity with 
regard to its materials and appearance throughout its whole range. 
It u:onsists of dark reddish brown argillaceous sandstone, soft 
crumbhng red and brown shales, with occasional bands of con- 
glomerate, or sandstone containing rounded pebbles. The dip, or 
inchnation of the strata is almost always to the northward, 
descending at an angle of from twelve to twenty-five degrees. 

The conglomerates of this group, by which is meant those 
layers containing imbedded pebbles, are chiefly found in the lower 
strata along the southern margin of the formation, or in the very 
highest, along its northern border. In both these cases, where 
the red sandstone overlies an older limestone in the vicinity, we 
find that a large proportion, sometimes nearly the whole, of the 
imbedded pebbles consists of rounded fragments of limestone of 
various colours. The paste too, by which they are cemented 
together, is so highly calcareous that the whole mass may be 
burned into tolerably good lime. Many portions of this conglo- 
merate, if polished, would make a very beautiful variegated 
marble, of the breccia variety. The famous Potomac marble, 
from which were formed the columns in the Representative 
Chamber of the Capitol at Washington, is of this character and 
belongs to this formation. It may be seen in Pennsylvania at 
several points along the northern border of the red sandstone, in 
the upper part of Bucks and the southern part of Berks, particu- 
larly near the Schuylkill two or three miles below Reading. It 
is also found on Yellow Breeches creek in the northern part of 
York county, and in Adams, near Millerstown or Fairfield, eight 
miles southwest of Gettysbursf. 

The red sandstone formation is traversed by numerous ridges 
and dykes of trap rock or greenstone, which sometimes forms 
hills of considerable height, and which have usually the same 
northeast and southwest direction as the other elevated ranges of 
hill and mountain in the State. This rock is generally of a dark 
gray colour, with some shade of green, crystalline in its structure, 
being composed chiefly of feldspar and hornblende, more or less 



44 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

closely mixed, and though rather tough and difficult to break, it 
is frequently used as a material for building. It is, however, 
seldom quarried for that purpose, being usually found in irregular 
masses of all sizes, scattered over the surface and in the soil. 
This rock is evidently of igneous origin, and having been brought 
to the surface in a state of fusion, being upheaved through the 
dislocated beds of red sandstone in a highly heated state, it has 
frequently changed the texture and colour of the shale and sand- 
stone in its neighbourhood, converting them into a baked hard 
blue rock, totally different from their original character. In some 
of the ridges which cross the upper part of Bucks and Mont- 
gomery counties, the hard blue altered rock only is visible, the 
trap having never reached the surface ; but its heat from beneath 
has been sufficient to change the colour and texture of the over- 
lying shales and sandstones. The soil of these ridges is generally 
wet clayey and cold, and but little esteemed for purposes of agri- 
culture, while the soil of the unaltered red shale and sandstone is 
fertile and productive. 

North of the middle secondary red sandstone last described, we 
find on the Delaware below Easton another belt of primary rocks, 
which forms a chain of hills stretching southwestward across 
Northampton, Lehigh, Berks, Lancaster, York, Cumberland, 
Adams and Franklin counties to the Maryland line. This range 
is commonly called the South mountain, and though somewhat 
irregular and sometimes interrupted, may be said to be nearly 
continuous across the state. Proceeding southwestward along 
this ridge, we find the primary rocks disappear as we approach 
the Schuylkill, and though seen occasionally west of that river, 
they are generally covered throughout the remainder of the range 
to the Maryland line, by the overlying rocks of the lower 
secondary series. 

That vast system of lower secondary strata which extends from 
the primary rocks upward to the carboniferous or coal bearing 
series, has been divided for convenience into thirteen separate 
groups or formations, which we shall notice in their ascending 
order. 

I. Overlying the primary rocks is a hard, white, compact sand- 
stone, almost purely silicious, and sometimes exhibiting evidence 
of the heating agency of the rocks beneath by its excessive hard- 
ness, its ringing sound when struck, its splintery fracture, and 
occasional discolouration. This rock is chiefly found along the 
range of the South mountain, from the Lehigh near Allentown 
to the Maryland line, near which it is finely exposed on the ex- 
cavations of the Gettysburg railroad. It is also beautifully 
seen in the cliffs at Chicques Ridge, on the Susquehanna, above 
Columbia. 

II. Above the sandstone last mentioned is a broad belt of lime- 
stone, which may be traced from the Delaware river, at and 
above Easton, through Northampton, Lehigh, Berks, Lebanon, 
Dauphin, Cumberland and Franklin counties, and so passing 
southwestward through Maryland and Virginia. Another divi- 



GEOLOGY. 45 

sion of this formation is seen in the middle townships of Lancas- 
ter and York counties, extending southwestward into Adams, 
where it terminates in a point near Littlestown. The same lime- 
stone is found in many of the valleys in the interior of the state, 
in the counties of Centre, Mifflin, Huntingdon and Bedford, 
particularly in Morrison's Cove, Kishicoquillas, Nittany and 
Brush valleys. This rock is usually of a bluish colour, some- 
times gray, or nearly black, tolerably pure in general, some of its 
layers yielding excellent lime, and others containing different pro- 
portions of sand, clay and oxide of iron. It frequently also con- 
tains bands and nodules of chert, usually called flint, which is 
generally of a dark colour. Fossil shells and zoophytes are 
abundant in some portions of this formation. Iron ore is also 
frequently found in the soil above it, and many of the most pro- 
ductive ore banks in the State are within the range of this lime- 
stone, or immediately on its border. The soil is highly fertile and 
some of the flnest agricultural districts of the State are situated 
upon this formation. 

III. The rock next in order as overlying the limestone is a slate, 
usually black or bluish, though sometimes gray, olive, or yel- 
lowish. In some portions of its range through Berks and Lebanon 
counties, it is red and brown, with some interposed bands of yel- 
low. It also contains interstratified beds of sandstone, some 
of which contain rounded pebbles, forming a true conglomerate. 
Some layers of this formation in the neighbourhood of the Dela- 
ware and Lehigh yield excellent roofing slate. Hydraulic cement 
is also made from some of the lower strata next to the limestone. 
This rock is found extending on the Delaware from opposite Bel- 
videre to the base of the Kittatiny or Blue mountain at the Dela- 
ware Water Gap. Thence ranging southwestward between the 
limestone belt and the mountain, it crosses Northampton, Lehigh, 
Berks, Lebanon, Dauphin, Cumberland and Franklin, to the 
southern line of the stale. The position of this slate being next 
above the great limestone, and between it and the sandstone next 
to be described as usually forming a mountain ridge, it follows 
that the slate will always be found near the foot of the mountain, 
or between it and the limestone. Hence, in the valleys through- 
out the state, where this limestone exists, we usually observe the 
slate near the base of the mountain, and frequently extending 
some distance up its side, when not covered or obscured by earth 
or stones fallen from the mountain itself 

IV. Next above the slate, and dipping conformably with it, is a 
formation composed of massive strata of hard white and gray, or 
sometimes reddish or greenish silicious sandstones of various de- 
grees of coarseness, frequently containing pebbles of considerable 
size. This rock constitutes that long, narrow, nearly level and 
continuous ridge which stretches from near the Hudson river, not 
far from Kingston, across New York and New Jersey, and which, 
entering Pennsylvania at the Delaware Water Gap, is known 
from that place to its termination in Franklin county, by the name 
of Kittatiny or Blue mountain. 



46 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

This formation is also recognised in many of the high and rug- 
ged sandstone ridges which are found in the counties of Juniata, 
Mifflin, Centre, Huntingdon and Bedford. In its numerous 
windings, foldings and irregular convolutions, it forms the moun- 
tains called Tuscarora, Cove, Shade, Jack's, Brush, Nittany, 
White Deer, Bald Eagle, Will's, the long complicated range 
called the Seven Mountains, and some others. It is also seen in 
Montour's Ridge, from near Bloomsburg in Columbia county to 
the West branch of Susquehanna, five miles above Northum- 
berland. 

V, Resting upon the sandstone last described, and generally 
near the base of the mountain ridges which contain it, is a series 
of red and variegated shales, containing in its lower portion some 
strata of red sandstone, and usually towards the upper, some thin 
layers of argillaceous limestone. This group, consisting mainly 
of soft argillaceous and calcareous shales, is exceedingly variable 
in colour, being striped with narrow bands of red, yellow, green, 
olive and purple. Its character also varies somewhat in different 
districts of the State ; for while in its long range along the northern 
side of the Blue mountain we find it almost uniformly to consist 
of strata of red shales and sandstones, and nearly or quite desti- 
tute of the thin limestone bands ; yet in other regions of the State 
it maintains its character of variegated colour and its thin layers 
of limestone. This formation is important as containing the ex- 
cellent fossiUferous iron ore which is now extensively worked in 
the neighbourhood of Danville and Catawissa, in Columbia 
county, also in several places near the Juniata, and in other parts 
of the State where this formation occurs. The position of the ore 
strata is generally found to be in that portion of the formation 
which contains the thin limestone layers. 

This group of rocks lies on both sides of Montour's Ridge north 
of Danville, and thence stretches across the West branch into 
Union county. It will also be found in many of the valleys at the 
base of the mountains which contain the last described sandstone, 
and if this sandstone forms an anticlinal axis, or arch, in the 
mountain, dipping both ways from the top, like the roof of a house, 
the shales of this formation, with their contained ore, being above the 
sandstone, will be found on both sides of the mountain. This is the 
case in Montour's Ridge, Will's, Jack's (south of the Juniata river,) 
Shade and Tuscarora mountains towards the north. If, on the con- 
trary, the sandstone strata of the mountain all dip in one direc- 
tion, as in the Bald Eagle or Muncy mountain, the shales of this 
formation, with their contained ore, Avill only be found on the 
side toward which the strata of mountain rock descend, the other 
being occupied by the slate which has been described as underlv- 
ing the mountain sandstone. It may, however, sometimes occur 
that the sandstone rocks form a synclinal axis, or trough shaped 
basin, by dipping both ways towards the centre, as in the Nittanv 
mountain. In this case the valleys on both sides Avill be occupied 
by the underlying black slate formation ; while the red and varie- 
gated shales, being always in position superior to the sandstone. 



GEOLOGY. 47 

if found at all, will be in the basin above it, near the middle of 
the ridge. 

VI. Next in position above the red and variegated shale forma- 
tion last described, we have an argillaceous blue limestone, rather 
slaty, of moderate thickness, though vastly inferior in this respect 
to that described in Article II. It frequently contains between its 
layers thin bands of slaty shale, somewhat similar to those of the 
formation below it ; but in its upper portion these disappear and 
the limestone becomes purer. Some of the strata contain abun- 
dance of fossil organic remains, commonly called petrifactions, 
and iron ore is sometimes found associated with it. This lime- 
stone is found in the valley north of the Blue mountain, above the 
red shale, and of course north of it, and may be seen at various 
points along its range, being quarried in many places for use. It 
is also found encircling Montour's Ridge, outside of the red shale, 
and extending northeastward nearly to Berwick. In Perry 
county it sweeps around two large triangular areas, from the Sus- 
quehanna near Fishing creek, along the northern side of the Blue 
mountain towards Landisburg, where it folds back and runs north- 
ward and northeastward beyond Bloomfield. Here it again turns 
westward towards the head of Sherman's creek, where it again 
folds round to the northeast, and crossing the Juniata near Millers- 
town, extends by Pfoutz's valley to the Susquehanna below George- 
town. In Juniata, Mifflin and Union counties this limestone will be 
found overlying the red and variegated shales of the last described 
formation, in the valleys near the Tuscarora, Shade and Jack's 
mountains, frequently forming limestone ridges which rise above 
the general level of the valleys. In Huntingdon county it is seen 
on the Juniata river on the west side of Warrior ridge, and thence 
extends east of Tussey's mountain, through Bedford county, to 
the Maryland line. The limestone of the valley about the town 
of Bedford, also belongs to this formation. The most northwest- 
ward range of this rock in Pennsylvania is found along the vaUey 
of the West branch of Susquehanna, from Muncy, by Williams- 
port, to the mouth of Bald Eagle creek, and thence up the valley 
of that stream southwestward to the neighbourhood of Hollidays- 
burg, on the Juniata. Here it sweeps around south of Brush 
mountain, and passes west of Canoe mountain, Dunning's and 
Will's mountain, through Bedford county to the Potomac river, 
above Cumberland. 

This limestone is also found in many other places ; we have 
only noted some of its principal ranges, as a minute description of 
all the various windings and doublings of this and other formations 
would far exceed the limits to which we are confined in such a 
book as this. Enough has, perhaps, been said to enable the in- 
telhgent and careful observer to distinguish this limestone group 
from the lower one described in Article II., and which, it will be 
seen, occupies a very different position in the great series of Penn- 
sylvania rocks. 

VII, The formation next in the ascending order above the lime- 
stone last described, is of very variable thickness, and in some places 



48 GEOGRArHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

seems entirely to disappear. It is a coarse grained and rather 
loosely cemented sandstone, of a whitish, or rather yellowish 
white colour, having in some of its beds abundance of fossil shells, 
and also some bands of chert or flint ; but is not important either 
for its extent or its mineral contents. Neither is it always con- 
tinuous in its range with the adjoining formations; for though 
when found it is always above the limestone last described, and 
below the olive slate next to be noticed ; yet as has been observed, 
it is sometimes absent, and the slate which belongs above it is 
found resting upon the Hmestone. This is the case in Columbia 
and Northumberland counties, around Montour's ridge, and per- 
haps, in some other places. 

Where this sandstone is observed in considerable thickness, it 
generally forms a line of irregular, sharp, rugged hills, such as may 
be observed ranging southwestward from near Stroudsburg in 
Monroe county, nearly parallel with the Blue mountain, and ex- 
tending beyond the Susquehanna into Perry county. It will be 
generally found accompanying the limestone along its ranges, as 
mentioned in the preceding article, through the counties of Perry, 
Juniata, Mifflin, Union, Huntingdon and Bedford. The cele- 
brated " pulpit rocks," on Warrior ridge, above Huntingdon, be- 




Pulpit Rocks on Warrior Ridge. 



lOng to this sandstone. Some iron ore is found within the range 
of This formation, and the rock itself is said to form a good mate- 
rial for the hearths and inwalls of furnaces. 

VIII. We now come to a group of alternating strata of dark 
gray, greenish, and olive coloured slates, interstratified whh gray 
and greenish argillaceous sandstones : the slates predominating 



GEOLOGY. 49 

in the lower beds, where we sometimes also find thin layers of 
limestone. Some of these lower strata are well adapted for making 
hydraulic cement. As we ascend in this group the sandstones 
become more prevalent in the upper portion. Many of the strata 
in this formation are abundant in fossil shells, encrinites, trilobites, 
&c. Iron ore has occasionally been found accompanying this 
group of rocks, but in general it is much inferior in this respect to 
the lower formations. This group is of much greater thickness 
than the two last described, and considered in conjunction with 
the following, both together occupy no inconsiderable portion of 
territory. When the rock strata are nearly horizontal, or have a 
gentle dip, a thick group or formation will of course spread over 
a wide extent of country. But when the strata have been up- 
heaved into a position more approaching to perpendicular, the area 
occupied is more confined and narrow. Thus a series of rocks three 
thousand feet thick, standing in perpendicular strata, would cover 
about half a mile in width, while the same series if lying nearly flat 
or horizontal might spread over many miles. Accordingly where 
we see these two formations on the Susquehanna, between the 
Kitattiny and the Second mountains, they seem to occupy but 
little space because the strata are nearly perpendicular; but fol- 
lowing them eastward towards the Delaware we find them flatten- 
ing out to a very gentle northwestern dip, and covering a large 
portion of Monroe, Pike and Wayne counties. The same remarks 
will also apply to these and other formations, in various parts of 
the state. 

IX. Above the oHve slate formation last described, we find a 
series of brownish red shales and sandstones, with some inter- 
posed layers of greenish gray and buff" coloured sandstones and 
shales. This group diflers from that last described more in colour 
than in actual composition ; and like it is a broad heavy series of 
rocks, and extensive in its range. Its sandstones yield abundance 
of excellent material for building ; but its mineral contents are of 
little importance. The soil of this, as well as that of the preceding 
formation, is but moderately fertile; and yet the industrious 
farmer, by proper attention to the use of lime and other manures, 
manages to reap a rich crop from the hills of these slates and 
sandstones. 

These two formations range eastward from the Susquehanna 
above the Blue mountain, passing southward of the Schuylkill 
and Lehigh coal regions, and along the southern side of Pocono 
mountain in Monroe county ; then spreading out broadly over 
most of Pike and Wayne counties, sweep around the eastern 
terminations of the anthracite coal fields in broad flattened synclinal 
axes. Nearly the whole of Susquehanna county, a large portion 
of Luzerne and Bradford, with most of the region which lies north 
and west of the bituminous coal fields, in the northern counties 
of the state, belong to this series of rocks. 

The same formations in like manner spread around the western 
ends of the anthracite basins, and are found in the broad undulating 
vallevs outside of the high mountain ridges which stretch around 

5 



50 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

the coal fields. The olive slate and red shale rocks appear in 
Armstrong's valley in Dauphin county, around Halifax, — in the 
valley of Shamokin creek southeast and east of Sunbury, thence 
stretching across the Shamokin hills to the North branch, they 
extend through Roaring creek valley by Catawissa, and into 
Luzerne county southeast of the Wyoming coal valley. Thence 
spreading out and folding round the Lackawanna valley, they 
return on the northwest through the northern townships of 
Luzerne and Columbia, and extend over the broad hilly region 
along the southern base of the Allegheny mountain. The red 
and gray sandstones of the upper portion of this series, form most 
of the southeastern face of the Allegheny throughout its course 
across the state ; while the olive slates of the lower group are seen 
in the range of smaller hills which stretch along near the base of 
that mighty chain. 

The rocks belonging to these formations are also seen on the 
Juniata river, at and below Huntingdon, whence they extend 
southward, branching out and passing on both sides of the Trough 
Creek valley and the Broad Top coal field. The eastern division 
passes along east of Sideling hill, a part of it folding back north- 
ward again to the Juniata in Aughwick valley, Avhile the main 
portion spreads broadly out over most of the southeastern part of 
Bedford county. The western division is seen along Allegripus 
ridge, west of Terrace mountain, and spreading out south of 
Broad Top, occupies most of the region between Ray's hill and 
Tussey's mountain to the Maryland line. These formations are 
visible in many other places ; for we have not attempted to describe 
their range minutely, — a mere general outline being all that our 
limits enable us to give. 

X. Over these red shales and sandstones rests a series of massive 
beds of coarse hard gray sandstone, sometimes containing pebbles, 
with occasional bands of dark greenish slates intermixed. This 
rock is much more compact, harder, and tougher than the sand- 
stone below it. The strata, too, are generally heavier, and the 
whole formation more united and massive in character. We are 
now approaching the coal bearing rocks, and accordingly some- 
times find in this formation bands of black carbonaceous slate, the 
flattened stems of plants and even thin scales of coal itself. Let 
no one be deluded, however, by the hope of finding productive 
veins of coal in this formation, for we are still several hundred feet 
below the true coal bearing series. 

The anthracite coal basins are generally in the form of long 
canoe-shaped troughs, encircled by a double border of mountains, 
of Avhich the rock we are now describing, forms the outer ring or 
barrier. It is seen in the Broad mountain, above Mauch Chunk, 
on the Lehigh, whence it sweeps round the eastern end of that 
coal basin, and runs southwestward in the Second mountain 
through its whole course from the Lehigh to the Susquehanna. 
Crossing this river below the town of Dauphin, it encircles a little 
cove on the west side, again recrosses and appears in Peters' 
mountain to its eastern termination near the head waters of Wico- 



GEOLOGY. 51 

nisco creek. Here it again turns westward, in Berry^s mountain, 
and once more crossing the Susquehanna below Millersburg, 
extends into Perry county nearly to the Juniata, where it again 
winds round to the northeastward, again crosses the Susquehanna 
just below Liverpool, and forms the ridge called Mahontongo 
mountain, north of Ly kens' valley. This mountain terminates near 
the southeastern corner of Northumberland county, connecting 
with the Line mountain, in which this rock formation again turns 
westward towards the Susquehanna, which it reaches in the high 
knob on the east side of the river, above the mouth of Mahanoy 
creek. Here it does not cross the river, but again turns to the 
northeast, forming the long range called the Little mountain, south 
of the Shamokin and Roaring creek valleys, and extending to 
Catawissa creek. From this point it again bends to the northwest, 
and forms a chain of short mountain ridges and knobs extending 
to the western end of Catawissa mountain, southeast of the town. 
Hence its course is again to the northeastward along the Catawissa 
mountain, and its continuation the Nescopeck mountain, at the 
eastern termination of which this formation flattens out and prob- 
ably joins the Wyoming or Moosick mountain, on the southeast 
of the Wyoming coal basin. It ranges along this side of the coal 
field southwestward, crossing the North branch of the Susque- 
hanna some distance below Shickshinny, and extends in the Knob 
mountain nearly to Orangeville, in Columbia county. Here it 
folds sharply back, forming the Shickshinny mountain, and 
stretches along the high ridges on the western side of the Wyo- 
ming valley, crossing the North branch above the mouth of Lacka- 
wanna, and so on until again uniting with the Moosick mountain, 
north of Carbondale, it thus encircles the Wyoming and Lacka- 
wanna coal basin. 

By tracing these multiplied windings of this formation on a 
good map of the State, we shall see that it encloses all the anthra- 
cite coal fields, sweeping along their sides and folding sharply 
round their pointed ends, though generally at some distance from 
them. The space between is occupied by a red shale, commonly 
forming a little valley, and belonging to the formation next to be 
described, as lying above the sandstone of which we are now 
treating. If the dip of this sandstone be observed, it will be found, 
throughout the long winding course which we have described, to 
be always descending towards the side occupied by the red shale 
which lies between it and the coal basins, and of course, passing 
beneath the red shale. An exception to this general rule may, 
however, be found in the Second mountain, south of the Schuyl- 
kill and Swatara coal regions, where the dip is inverted, the rocks 
having, by some great convulsion, been tilted beyond the perpen- 
dicular. 

The same sandstone also occurs in Bedford and Huntingdon 
counties, encompassing the Broad Top coal basin, and may be seen 
in the Terrace mountain and Sideling hill, enclosing the red shale 
of Trough Creek valley, and passing southward in AUegripus and 
Harbour mountains. 



52 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

This formation is found to occupy the same position in relation 
to the bituminous coal fields that it does to the anthracite, and we 
accordingly find it along the southeastern slope of the Allegheny 
mountain near its summit, dipping gently towards the northwest, 
throughout its whole course, from the Maryland line to the north 
branch of Susquehanna, near Tunkhannock, in the new county 
of Wyoming. Here it folds round the extreme northeastern point 
of the bituminous coal region, and passes westward through the 
northern counties, on the north side of the bituminous coal, having 
here of course a slight southern dip. 

XI. Above the hard gray sandstone last described is a series of 
red shales and red sandstones, with some alternating layers of gray 
sandstone, though the red shale usually predominates throughout 
the formation. Some of the strata are more or less calcareous, 
and a few of them approach the character of a true limestone. 
These, near the anthracite coal regions, frequently consist of a thin 
band of conglomerate rock, made up of pebbles chiefly of lime- 
stone, having a light bluish gray or reddish colour, imbedded in a 
cement of reddish or greenish argillaceous shale. Some of the 
purest of these calcareous bands might be burned into a rough 
lime ; but in general they are not found sufficiently pure to be of 
much use in this respect. Iron ore of considerable value is found 
in this formation in certain parts of its range. 

It has been already observed that this red shale formation is found 
extending around all the anthracite coal basins. It is usually seen 
in the deep and narrow valleys which lie between the ridges of 
sandstone, mentioned in the preceding article, and those of the 
conglomerate formation next to be described, as lying above this 
red shale, and forming the immediate margin of the trough or 
basin in which the coal is found. Accordingly, we observe it be- 
tween the Second and Sharp mountains, extending on the south 
of the coal, from the Lehigh to the Susquehanna, and there folding 
round the end of the Stony creek basin, it runs up the valley of 
Clark's creek to the head of Wiconisco, where it again turns west 
and passes down Williams' valley to Millersburg, on the Susque- 
hanna, where a portion of it is seen on the west side of the river in 
Perry county. From this it stretches again eastward, up Lykens' 
valley to the north side of the Broad mountain, passing up between 
the western points of the southern coal fields, and dividing them 
from the Shamokin and Mahanoy region. It passes thence west- 
ward down the valley of Mahanoy creek, near the mouth of which 
it again folds eastward round the point of the Mahanoy coal basin 
and pursues the long narrow valley south of the Little mountain 
to near the head of Catawissa creek, down which it passes north- 
ward to the southern base of the Nescopeck mountain. Its course 
is now northeastward through the Nescopeck valley to the Lehigh, 
where it folds round the eastern points of several divisions of the 
coal field, towards the southern range, where we first mentioned 
its occurrence, between the Second and Sharp mountains. We 
have only traced the general outline of this formation ; it may be 



GEOLOGY. 53 

seen in other places between the various minor divisions of the 
great anthracite basins. 

It will be found in like manner, sweeping around the long canoe- 
shaped coal trough of Wyoming and Lackawanna, always main- 
taining its position between the sandstone of the last mentioned 
formation and the conglomerate or coarse pebble rock which lies 
immediately below the coal series. The coal field of Broad Top, 
in Bedford and Huntingdon, is also encompassed by this same red 
shale group, which is seen in the valley of Trough creek, north of 
Broad Top, and passing both on the east and west of that moun- 
tain, again unites in Wells' valley on the south of it. 

This formation which has been described as encircling the 
mountain ridges which enclose the anthracite coal measures is also 
found in the same position with respect to the bituminous coal 
fields. But while in the anthracite regions it has a thickness of 
perhaps not less than two thousand feet, we find it much dimin- 
ished where it occurs below the bituminous coal, and observation 
would seem to prove that it decreases in thickness as we trace it 
northwestward. In the southeastern portion of the bituminous 
coal country, we find it maintaining a massive character in the 
Little Allegheny, the Savage, the Great Allegheny and the Negro 
mountains, also in Laurel Hill and in Chesnut ridge, in most of 
which ranges it contains thick bands of limestone, or highly calca- 
reous rock ; yet when we observe it as far north as Clinton and 
Lycoming counties, it thins away to extremely diminished size. 
In the neighbourhood of Farrandsville, on the west branch of the 
Susquehanna, in Clinton county, the total thickness of this forma- 
tion is but about twenty-four feet ; and still fartlier northwest it 
seems in many places entirely to thin out and disappear. 

XII. The next formation above the red shale, and immediately 
beneath the coal series, is a group of massive strata of coarse 
silicious conglomerates, alternating with white or light coloured 
sandstones, and containing some thin beds of dark carbonaceous 
shale. Around the anthracite basins, the conglomerate is the pre- 
vailing character of the rock, which there consists chiefly of 
cemented pebbles, of white quartz, from the size of a pea to that 
of an orange. But in many parts of the range of this formation, 
beneath the bituminous coal region, it shoAvs less of the conglome- 
rate character, being in some places almost wholly a coarse white 
sandstone. 

This rock will be found on the ridges which form the immediate 
border of all the anthracite coal basins ; also around the coal of 
Broad Top, and of the bituminous region west of the Allegheny. 
Our limits will not permit us to trace it in detail ; but as we have 
described the general range of the red shale below it, the locahty 
of this rock may easily be found in connection with it. 

As this conglomerate formation composes the true floor of the 
coal measures, all search for productive beds of that fuel beneath 
it must be fruitless ; and this rock will form a sure guide to the 
judicious explorer, who will attend to its dip and direction and 
always search for coal above it. This observation applies, of 



54 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

course, only to the main heavy conglomerate formation ; as there 
are in the coal series, and between the coal seams, some thin bands 
of a conglomerate character, though very different from the coarser 
and thicker rocks of the main formation below the coal. 

XIII. It now remains for us to describe, in a brief and general 
manner, that extensive and varied system of rock strata which 
contains the coal of Pennsylvania. The lowest beds of coal are 
generally found near the underlying conglomerate rock, or some- 
times even in it ; but as we ascend in the series we find the coal 
seams separated by beds of greater or less thickness of soft argilla- 
ceous bluish gray, or light gray sandstone, and of black, dark 
coloured, or grayish slates and shales. These shales sometimes 
contain bands and kidney-shaped masses of valuable iron ore ; but 
it seems to prevail as a general rule, that this ore in the anthracite 
basins is not equal either in quality or abundance to that of the 
bituminous region west of the Allegheny mountain. Valuable 
strata of limestone also are found between the beds of bituminous 
coal, which appear to be nearly, if not totally, absent in the same 
position in the anthracite series. 

In considering the extent included within the general boundaries 
of the coal regions of this Slate, we must by no means suppose 
that the coal spreads continuously over their whole area. When 
examined minutely it will be found that the effects of subterranean 
elevating forces have heaved up the lower rocks in a series of an- 
ticlinal elevations within the general limits of the great coal fields, 
subdividing them into a series of lesser synclinal troughs ; while 
the denuding action of waters, and the natural wearing down of 
the surface, have swept away the whole of the coal series from 
much of the surface occupied by these hues of elevation. It is, 
therefore, only in these lesser troughs that the general mass of our 
coal will be found. 

The anthracite region may be properly divided into four distinct 
groups or divisions, each comprising a series of minor basins or 
branches of the coal deposits. First, on the south, we have the 
Pottsville, Mine hill and Broad mountain basins, the former ex- 
tending eastward to the Mauch Chunk mines near the Lehigh, 
and westward to the neighbourhood of Pinegrove, where it forks 
out into two long points or branches, the southern one extending 
along north of the Sharp mountain to the Stony creek region, and 
reaching nearly to the Susquehanna river. The northern branch 
extends into Bear valley, between Williams' and Lykens' valleys, 
and terminates about twelve miles east of the Susquehanna. 

North of the Broad mountain axis we have the Mahanoy and 
Shamokin division, which terminates westward within a few miles 
of the Susquehanna, and on the eastward is composed of a num- 
ber of smaller irregular basins, separated by local axes or lines of 
elevation. These basins terminate eastward on the north of the 
Broad mountain, some extending as far as the borders of Gluakake 
valley. 

East and northeast from this group of basins we have another 
series, consisting of seven or eight narrow basins, separated from 



GEOLOGY. 55 

the last mentioned division by the deep red shale valleys of the 
head waters of the Catawissa, Little Schuylkill and other streams. 
In this division are included the Beaver meadow, Hazelton, Black 
creek. Buck mountain, Green mountain and other local coal fields. 

Separated from all these by a great anticlinal axis which brings 
up the loAver rocks in the valley of Wapwallopen creek, we find 
considerably farther northward the great Wyoming and Lacka- 
wanna basin, which extends from the north branch of the Susque- 
hanna, near Shickshinny, to a few miles above Carbondale on the 
Lackawanna, and terminates in a point not far from the southeast 
corner of Susquehanna county. 

It may be observed as a general rule, that in the southern an- 
thracite basin the character of the coal changes as we proceed 
southweslward ; for while we find near the Lehigh a compact, hard, 
firm coal, sometimes of rather difficult ignition, as we trace it 
towards the Susquehanna it gradually becomes more open in tex- 
ture, contains rather more impurities, and burns more freely, until 
near the western extremity of the same basin a coal is found 
which in some measure partakes of the bituminous character. 

The coal of Broad Top mountain in Huntingdon and Bedford 
counties, though bituminous, is more hard and compact in its 
character and contains less bitumen than the coals west of the Al- 
legheny generally ; the same remark will apply in some measure 
to the beds found in the Southampton basin in the southeast of 
Somerset county. The coal beds west of the Allegheny mountain 
seem to show an increase of bituminous matter in their composi- 
tion as we proceed northwestward; it having been proved by 
analysis that while the coals nearest the Allegheny mountain 
average about twenty-one per cent, of bitumen, those in the neigh- 
bourhood of Pittsburg and the western part of the Slate yield nearly 
forty per cent. 

Though the gentle northwest dip" of the rocks on the summit 
of the Allegheny, and the general apparent nearly horizontal posi- 
tion of the strata from this to the western part of the State, might 
lead to the idea that the coal beds are continuous over the whole 
of this great area; yet closer examination will show that this 
apparently undisturbed series of rocks has also been subject to 
the effect of upheaving forces, though certainly much less power- 
fully affected than the region east of the Allegheny. Several 
great lines of elevation enter our bituminous coal region from the 
south and extend their influence across a large portion of it, 
causing a series of undulations in the strata. On these antichnal 
arches the lower rocks are brought up to the surface, and the coal 
bearing strata have disappeared, so that this region is separated 
also into a series of synclinal basins containing the coal, though 
generally of much greater extent than those of the anthracite coal 
fields. 

The great anticlinal ridges of Negro mountain. Laurel hill and 
Chesnut ridge are sufficiently elevated to bring up the red shale 
with its limestone bands and even some lower formations, as may 
be seen in the g^ps where streams pass through them. Beside 



56 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

these there are, farther northward, many other less elevated broad 
anticlinal swells on which the rocks next below the coal appear ; 
but the coal strata themselves have been entirely swept away. In 
some of the northern counties the coal occupies only the summits 
of the hiojhest hills, the denudation and wearing down of the val- 
leys having brought the general level of the country below the 
position occupied by the coal bearing rocks. It will thus be seen 
that only a limited portion of the so called bituminous coal country 
is actually occupied by productive beds of coal. This is men- 
tioned with the view of correcting an erroneous impression gen- 
erally entertained, and not by any means with a design to convey 
the idea that the quantity of coal possessed by Pennsylvania can 
ever be exhausted, or even materially diminished by the mining 
and consumption of centuries. 

Having thus given an outline of the geology of the State, we 
reserve the notice of more minute particulars relative thereto for 
our description of the separate counties. 

Of what are geological formations composed ? What is the general 
course of the ranges of rock in Pennsylvania ? What is said of their incli- 
nation or dip ? How were the stratified secondary rocks formed ? By what 
causes were the different varieties produced ? From what do they derive 
their colour ? How may we account for their different degrees of incHnation 
or slope ? What class of rocks is found in the southeastern part of the 
State ? Describe the range of the middle secondary red sandstone formation, 
and the kinds of rocks of which it is composed. In what parts of it is the 
conglomerate called Potomac marble found? Describe the trap or green- 
stone rocks — their origin — and their frequent efl'ect upon the neighbouring 
red shale. What is the extent of the primary rocks of the South mountain ? 
What is the character of the sandstone overlying the primary rocks, and 
where does it occur? What formation (II.) is next above this, and where 
may it be traced ? In what other places is this limestone found ? What 
valuable ore often occurs with it ? Describe the slate next in order above 
the limestone. What useful materials are found in the slate formation ? In 
what parts of the State may it be seen ? In what mountains may the sand- 
stone (IV.) next above the slate be found? What is said of the group of 
red and variegated shales next in order? What valuable mineral is con- 
tained in them ? In what parts of the State does this formation occur? 
Describe the hmestone next mentioned. What does it contain ? What 
places can you mention where this hmestone may be seen ? What kind 
of rock is next above this limestone ? Where does it occur ? Give a gen- 
eral description of the varieties of rock contained in the olive slate form- 
ation. (VIII.) What is there valuable or curious contained in it ? What 
is said of the difference in extent between horizontal and perpendicular 
strata ? What kinds of rock compose the next formation above the olive 
slate? For what useful ? Describe the general range of these two forma- 
tions on a map of the State. What is the character of the sandstone (X.) 
next in order ? What is sometimes contained in it ? Name the mountains 
in which this sandstone occurs, and trace its range on the map. What is 
said of the red shale and sandstone next mentioned ? Are any useful ma- 
terials found in it ? Around what does this formation extend ? Mention 
the valleys in which it occurs. What is said of this formation near the 
bituminous coal region ? Describe the character of the formation (XII.) 
next below the coal. Where does it occur ? Of what use is a knowledge 
of its position when searching for coal? Where are the lowest coal beds 
generally found ? What kinds of rocks lie between the beds of coal ? 
What valuable materials are found in the slates and shales between the coal 



BOTANY. 57 

beds ? What difference is there in this respect between the anthracite and 
bituminous regions ? What is said about the coal extending over the whole 
ot these regions ? Into what four districts may the anthracite region 
be divided? What is the extent of the first? — of the second? — of the 
third? — of the fourth? What change in qualitj' is observed in the coal 
of the southern basin, as we proceed towards the Susquehanna? What is 
said of the coal of Broad Top, and of that of Southampton in Somerset 
county ? Mention the change in the quality of bituminous coal as we pro- 
ceed northwestward. Are the beds of coal continuous over the whole 
country west of the Allegheny mountains ? Why are they not so ? In 
what ridges do the rocks below the coal series appear ? Why is coal only 
partially found in some of the northern counties ? What is said of the 
probability of exhausting the coal of Pennsylvania ? 



7. Botany. 



It is not intended in this article, nor would it be consistent with 
the plan of our work, to give more than a mere outline of the 
varied and extensive series of vegetable productions which consti- 
tute the Flora of Pennsylvania. Our attention will, therefore, 
be chiefly confined to a brief notice of the more useful kinds of 
forest trees, and such plants as are most common or specially 
worthy of consideration on account of their connection witn 
agriculture, arts, manufactures, commerce and medicine. The 
botanical names will be given for convenience of reference to works 
on the subject ; but the use of scientific technical terms will be 
avoided, inasmuch as they might not be understood by the general 
reader ; our object being to give a plain and concise account of 
our native trees and plants, rather than a scientific arrangement 
and description. 

Forest Trees. 

The Oak, in its various species, is one of the most really useful 
trees, not only in Pennsylvania, but in most parts of the United 
States, as well as in Europe. It seems, like iron ore in the mineral 
kingdom, to have been multiplied by nature in proportion to its 
utility ; being found almost every where, and every where sup- 
plying the wants of man for a vast variety of purposes. Its wood 
is used by the shipbuilder, by the civil engineer and architect, the 
cooper, the coachmaker, the wheelwright, the millwright, in the 
construction of farming implements, for fences and for fuel. The 
bark is used in tanning leather, in dyeing, and forms a consider- 
able article of export to foreign countries. 

White Oak, {Querciis alba) is the most esteemed of this noble 
family of trees ; its wood, being compact, strong, tough and dur- 
able, is adapted to a greater variety of purposes than any of the 
other species. It is found throughout the State ; but in the northern 
and western counties the wood is not so compact and tough as in 
the southeastern districts. This may be the effect of a difference 
of soil, or because the forests are thinner and the trees more 
widely separated from each other in the older settled counties. 



58 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Even the best of our oak timber has not so close a grain as that 
of Europe. 

Post Oak, or Iron Oak ( Quercus obtusiloba) seems to be chiefly 
confined to the eastern part of the State, and is less abundant than 
the white oak, which it so much resembles that it is generally 
taken for a variety of that species. It does not grow to so large a 
size as the white oak, the wood has a finer grain, the acorn is 
smaller, and the lobes of the leaf wider and obtuse at the termi- 
nation. 

Swamp White Oak ( Q. prinus discolor, or bicolor) is not abun- 
dant and grows only around swamps, or in low and very moist 
grounds. It is less esteemed than some of the other species. 

Swamp Chesnut Oak (Q.p*wiMS paliistris^ grows in swamps 
and wet grounds, bears great resemblance to the rock chesnut oak, 
and is frequently confounded with it. The leaves are similar, but 
the acorn of the rock chesnut oak is more slender and pointed. 

Rock Chesnut Oak (Q. prinus monticola) is not generally 
diff'used throughout our forests, but is chiefly found on rocky 
ridges and declivities. It is very abundant on many of the moun- 
tains in the interior of the State. The wood is said to be excellent 
for fuel, and the bark is highly esteemed by tanners. 

Laurel Oak or Shingle Oak (Q. imbricatia) is rare east of the 
mountains ; but west of them is more common. 

Scrub Oak (Q. banisteri) is very abundant on barren mountain 
ridges, seldom growing more than six or eight feet in height, and so 
close that it is often difficult to find a passage through the thickly 
intermingled branches. So thickly does this shrub grow, and 
so nearly uniform is its height, that when viewed from a distance, 
many of the barren wastes, containing hundreds of acres, appear 
as if covered with grass, with here and there a solitary pine tree 
rising high abof e to relieve the monotony of the scene. 

Spanish Oak (Q. falcata) is much less common in Pennsyl- 
vania than farther south. Its wood is not considered of much 
value j but the bark is greatly esteemed for the manufacture of 
leather, and commands a high price. 

Black Oak (Q. tinctond) grows abundantly in most of our forests, 
and is one of our largest trees. The wood is of a reddish colour, 
and coarse grained ; it is not very durable, but is used for fencing, 
fire wood, staves and shingles. It is from this species that the 
Quercitron bark is obtained, which is exported in large quantities, 
and used in dyeing wool, silk, &,c., a yellow colour. When used 
by tanners it imparts a yeUow tinge to the leather. 

Scarlet Oak, (Q. coccinea.) This tree is confounded with the 
true Spanish oak, being called red oak in the northern States, and 
Spanish oak in the south. The leaves of the Spanish oak are very 
downy underneath, while those of the scarlet oak are smooth and 
shining on both sides. The leaves of the scarlet oak begin to 
change colour with the first cold weather, and after a few frosts 
they turn to a lively red, and not to a dull tint like the true red oak. 
It is a large tree, — the timber is reddish, of a coarse texture and 
its pores are entirely empty. Not being so durable as the white 



BOTANY. 59 

oak, it is but little used in building, or in wheelwright work, but 
is chiefly employed for staves, fuel and fencing. 

Red Oak (Q. rubra) has leaves somewhat resembling the 
Spanish oak, but not downy on the under side. In autumn they 
turn to a dull red and then fall. It bears acorns abundantly, which 
are very large, and contained in remarkably flat cups, the scales 
of which are so closely united that the surface is nearly even. 
The texture of the wood is coarse, with large and empty pores : it 
is strong, but not durable, and therefore, little used in buildings. 
The bark has a thick cellular texture, with a thin outside cov- 
ering, and as well as that of the scarlet oak, is much used by 
tanners. 

Pin Oak ( Q. palustris) is common in low and wet places, and 
has leaves much like those of the scarlet oak, but considerably 
smaller. The small limbs along the body of the tree die as it ad- 
vances in age and drop off" at a little distance from the trunk, which 
gives it the appearance of having pins driven into it. The bark is 
smoother than that of most other oaks. 

Walnut. The Black Walnut (JuQ;lans nig^'o) is common in our 
valleys where the soil is deep and fertile, and frequently attains a 
height of fifty or sixty feet. Its wood when freshly cut is of a 
violet colour, but becomes dark by exposure to the air; it is sus- 
ceptible of a beautiful polish, and remains sound during a long time. 
Among other good qualities, it possesses considerable strength and 
tenacity, and is not liable to be attacked by worms. It is much 
used for making coffins and various kinds of cabinet work, — also 
for the stocks of military muskets. Where it is abundant it is 
frequently used in building, and for the posts of fences, which, it 
is said, will last from twenty to twenty-five years. The nuts are 
collected and sold in our market ; the kernel is large and pleasant 
to the taste, though inferior to the European walnut. The husks 
or outer covering of the fruit, as well as the bark, are used in the 
country for colouring woollen stuffs. 

White Walnut or Butternut, (Juglans cathartica or cinered) 
though less abundant in some parts of the State than the preceding 
species, is yet common on hill sides, along streams and other 
places where it finds a congenial soil. The nuts are longer and 
more oval than those of the black walnut -, the kernel is thick and 
oily, and soon becomes rancid. In the green state, however, and 
when about half grown, they are used for making pickles. The 
wood is of a reddish colour, and not so heavy and strong as that 
of the black walnut, but is very durable, and also free from injury 
by worms. The bark yields an excellent cathartic medicine which 
is said to be efficacious in cases of dysentery. It is also used in 
the country for giving a brown colour to wool. 

Hickory. Of this valuable tree we have several species, the 
timber of which, though differing in some respects, yet possesses 
the same general properties of great weight, strength and tenacity, 
speedy decay when exposed to moisture, and a peculiar liability 
to injury from worms. But though not adapted to use in buildings 
and fences, this wood performs other services in which no other 



60 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

kind of timber could so well be employed. It is almost univer- 
sally used where great strength and elasticity are required, as in the 
axletrees of carriages, the handles of axes, and other carpenter's 
tools, large screws, cogs for mill wheels, whip handles, rake teeth, 
flails for threshing grain, the bows of ox yokes, and for innumer- 
able other agricultural and domestic implements. For fuel it is 
generally preferred to every other kind of wood, affording in the 
same bulk more combustible matter, yielding a more lively heat, 
and leaving a heavy, compact, long-lived coal. The most common 
species in Pennsylvania are the common or White Heart hickory 
( Carya tomentosa,) Pig nut ( Carya porcina,) Bitter nut ( C. amara,) 
'Shell bark (C alba or squamosa,) and Thick Shell bark (C sulcata 
or laciniosa.) The last named species is not so common east of 
the mountains as in the alluvial bottom lands on the Ohio and the 
streams which empty into it. 

Maple. The White Maple, (Acer eiiocai-pum) sometimes called 
Silver maple from the colour of its leaves on the under side ; and 
the Red maple (Acer rubnim) both grow in Pennsylvania ; the 
latter, however, is the more common species. They may be dis- 
tinguished by observing that the red maple has the young shoots, 
the flowers and the fruit deeply tinged with red, while in those of 
the white maple that colour appears but faintly. The leaf of the 
white maple is five lobed and deeply sinuated ; those of the red are 
three lobed and unequally toothed. The capsules which contain 
the seeds of the white maple are very large, and bear some resem- 
blance to the wings of a huge grasshopper. The wood of the 
red maple is harder than that of the white, and has a finer and 
closer grain. It is much used by chairmakers, and for bedsteads, 
spinning wheels, saddle trees, and a variety of other purposes. 
This wood is of a solid texture, and by polishing acquires a glossy 
and silken surface. The variety called curled maple is commonly 
found in old trees, in which the fibres of the wood, instead of fol- 
lowing a perpendicular direction, are undulated and waving. 
This renders the wood difficult to split, but when skilfully polished 
produces the most beautiful effect of light and shade. But few 
trees, however, afford this curled and waving disposition of the 
woody fibre. The bark of the red maple yields a purplish colour 
by boiling, which, by the addition of copperas (sulphate of iron) 
becomes dark blue, approaching to black. It is used in the coun- 
try for dyeing, and sometimes for making ink. 

Of the Sugar Maple we have two kinds ; the true Sugar maple 
(Acer saccharinum) and the Black Sugar tree, or Black maple 
(Acer nio^rum.) The former is most abundant in the northern 
parts of the State, and along the elevated range of the Allegheny 
table land, where the soil, though fertile, is cold and moist. It is 
also found on 'the steep and shadv banks of the streams which 
rise among the mountains. The Black maple is more common in 
the low rich soils along the western rivers. The leaves of the 
latter are of a darker green and a thicker texture than the true 
Sugar maple ; they are also slightly downy on the under side, 
while the others are smooth. Both are large trees, growing to a 



BOTANY. &l 

height of from fifty to seventy feet ; the wood of the Black maple, 
though much Mke the other, is coarser grained and less briUiant 
when polished. The woody fibre of the Sugar maple is some- 
times waved like the curled maple ; but a more beautiful and rare 
accidental form is the Birds' Eye maple, where an inflexion of 
the fibre produces spots, sometimes contiguous, and sometimes a 
little distance apart. This wood when polished is very beautiful, 
and is used in various articles of cabinet work. Both these species 
of maple yield the sap from which sugar is made. In February, 
or the beginning of March, when the sap begins to ascend, holes 
are bored in the tree from one to two feet from the ground, and 
tubes of elder or sumach inserted to conduct the sap into a trough 
or vessel placed to receive it. The sap is collected and boiled to a 
syrup, after which it is allowed to cool and is strained through a 
cloth to separate impurities. It is then boiled again, until the 
syrup is reduced to the proper consistency for graining or pouring 
into the moulds. The colour and quality of the sugar depend 
much upon the care and judgment with which the process is con- 
ducted. The sap continues to flow for several weeks, but gradu- 
ally becomes less abundant and less rich in saccharine matter. 
About four gallons of sap are estimated to yield a pound of sugar, 
and a single tree, having twenty tubes inserted has been known 
to yield twenty-three gallons of sap in a day. Large quantities of 
maple sugar are still made in the northern and western counties 
by the farmers, who sell that which they do not require for their 
own use to the shopkeepers of tl^ neighbouring towns. 

Striped Maple (Acer stnatuni) is rare except in the mountainous 
parts of the State, where it grows in cold and shaded situations. 
It is a small tree, with the trunk and branches covered with a 
smooth green bark, longitudinally marked with black stripes, by 
which it is easily distinguished. 

Ash-leaved Maple or Box Elder, (Acer negwido) is not common 
in the eastern part of the State j but more abundant west of the 
mountains. 

Dogivood. Of the several species of Dogwood which grow in 
Pennsylvania, but one is entitled from its size to be classed with 
the forest trees. This is the Coi-niisjlonda, which attains a height 
of twenty or thirty feet, and grows abundantly in moist, gravelly 
and uneven soils. In the beginning of May it is profusely covered 
with white flowers which add much to the beauty of our forests. 
The wood is of a chocolate colour, hard, compact and heavy, and 
is used for the handles of tools and other purposes where small, 
strong and hard wood is required. The inner bark has medicinal 
properties resembling those of the Cinchona, or Peruvian bark, and 
has been successfully used in intermitting fevers. 

Magnolia. The small Magnolia or Beaver tree (Magnolia 
glaiica,) though common in the swamps of New Jersey, is rather 
rare in Pennsylvania. It seldom grows more than fifteen or 
twenty feet high, and is remarkable for the peculiarly agreeable 
scent of its flowers, which are white, and two or three inches 



62 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

broad. The leaves are three or four inches long, of an oval shape, 
dark shining green above and light coloured beneath. 

Cucumber tree (Magnolia acuminata) grows in the western part 
of the State, on the hill sides, in the narrow valleys and on the 
banks of streams where the atmosphere is moist and the soil deep 
and fertile. It sometimes reaches a height of fifty or sixty feet ; 
the leaves are oval and pointed, six inches long and three broad ; 
the flowers five or six inches in diameter, of a bluish white colour. 
The cones or fruit are of a cyhndrical shape, somewhat resembling 
a small cucumber, from which the tree derives its name. The 
wood has some similarity to that of the poplar j but the tree is not 
sufficiently common to be much used. 

One or two other species of Magnolia may be found in the State, 
but they are not common and possess no useful properties to ren- 
der them worthy of special notice. 

Papaw, (Annona triloba,) though commonly appearing as a large 
shrub, sometimes grows to the height of twenty or thirty feet. It 
is rare on the Delaware, though we have seen it there, — more 
common along the banks of the Susquehanna; but most abundant 
in the rich valleys of the west. The leaves are ovate, five or six 
inches long, and widening from the base to the summit. It bears 
flowers of a purple colour; the fruit when ripe is yellowish and 
contains a pulp which has a sweet insipid taste. 

The Poplar or Tulip tree (Linodendron tidipifera) is common in 
Pennsylvania, and surpasses most of our forest trees in height and 
in the 'beauty of its flowers and foliage. It is often seen seventy, 
eighty and one hundred feet in height, three or four feet in dia- 
meter, with the trunk standing in a straight and uniform column. 
The heart or perfect wood of this tree is yellow, and its sap wood 
or alburnum white. But the nature of the soil in which it grows 
has so great an influence on the colour and quality of this wood, 
that it is commonly supposed there are two kinds of the tree, 
which are called White and Y^'ellow poplar. This is, however, an 
error, the difference being due to the variety of soil, situation, the 
age of the tree and other circumstances. The timber of the poplar 
is highly useful and is employed for a variety of purposes. It is 
often used for the rafters and joists of buildings ; and where pine 
is not easily obtained, boards of poplar are employed in the interior 
wood work of houses. Poplar boards are also used by coach, 
chair and trunkmakers, and the wood is applied to many other 
purposes where lightness and strength are desirable. The bark is 
said to possess tonic and antiseptic qualities, and a decoction of it, 
combined with a few drops of laudanum, has been found effica- 
cious in giving tone and vigour to the stomach after fevers and in- 
flammatory diseases. It has been also used in dyspepsia and 
cholera infantum. 

Sweet Gum {Liquidambar styraciflua) prefers a cool fertile soil, 
which is exposed to temporary inundations, and grows in com- 
pany with the Maple, Sour gum. Swamp White oak and Shell 
Bark hickory. Its leaves are five lobed and bear some resemblance 



BOTANY. 63 

to those of the Sugar maple : the fruit is globular, about an inch 
in diameter, and bristling with points. The wood is not much 
esteemed, nor is the tree sufficiently abundant to be very useful. 

Buttonwood or Sycamore {Plataniis occidentalis) is abundant in 
the alluvial soils along our large streams, where it frequently 
grows to an enormous size. Michaux, in his North 'American 
Syiva, mentions one which he found on the banks of the Ohio, 
measuring forty-seven feet in circumference at four feet from the 
ground. The wood of this tree is not considered valuable, being 
liable to speedy decay unless sheltered from moisture. It is some- 
times sawed into boards or joists, which when thoroughly seasoned 
may be used in the interior wood work of buildings. This is not 
the true Sycamore, though often called by that name : the Euro- 
pean Sycamore is a species of maple (Jicer pseudo platanus.) 

Catalpa or Bean tree (Bignonia catalpa) though not a native of 
Pennsylvania, but originally introduced from the south, seems to 
have become naturahzed and grows abundantly along the Schuyl- 
kill and other places in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia. 

Crab Apple (Malus coronaria,) a wild apple whose nature has 
not been modified by cultivation, is found in most parts of the 
State. Its fruit is small and exceedingly acid, but makes very su- 
perior preserves when done up with sugar. 

May Cherry or June Berry (Mespilus ahorea, Mx. Aronia botry- 
apium, P.) grows in our forests in moist and shady situations. It 
is seldom more than twenty or thirty feet high, and is chiefly 
noted for its fruit which is a purphsh red berry, of an agreeable 
sweet taste, which is ripe in the latter part of May or the begin- 
ning of June, before the fruit of any other native tree or shrub. 

White Birch (Betida populifolict) and Red Birch (B. rubra) both 
grow in this State. The latter is generally found on the banks of 
rivers, and is abundant along the Delaware above Philadelphia, 
The wood is of a compact texture, but is not considered durable, 
and is but little used. The young branches of the red birch are 
slender, tough and flexible ; it is these which are used for making 
the brooms with which our streets are swept. Black Birch or 
Sweet Birch {Beiula lento) thrives best in deep, loose and cool 
soils, where it sometimes reaches a height of sixty feet. The bark 
of small trees and branches much resembles that of the Cherry 
tree, and has a sweet spicy taste. The young leaves are covered 
with a thick silvery down, which soon disappears. The wood is 
rose coloured, with a fine close grain, and bears a good polish. It 
is said that articles of furniture made from it acquire with time the 
appearance of mahogany. 

Locust (Kobinia pseudo-acacia) is a common tree in many parts 
of Pennsylvania, but is most abundant in limestone valleys and in 
places where it finds a deep rich soil. It does not, however, here 
grow to so large a size as in Virginia, Kentucky and Tennessee, 
where it may be seen sixty or seventy feet high and two or three 
feet in diameter. It is a beautiful tree, with light agreeable foliage, 
and bears clusters of sweet scented white flowers. The seeds are 
contained in a flat bean-shaped pod, and the young trees are 



64 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

armed with short flat thorns which disappear as the tree grows 
older. The wood of the Locust is held in high esteem for its du- 
rability, and is in great demand for certain uses in ship building, 
for railroad timber, for fence posts and other purposes where a 
hard and .durable wood is requisite. The various colours of the 
heart-wood of the Locust are probably owing to the soil and cir- 
cumstances of its growth ; that having a reddish colour being most 
esteemed, — that of a greenish yellow next, and that with a white 
heart being considered least valuable. This beautiful and useful 
tree is, however, subject to the attack of an insect which pene- 
trates the bark and bores the trunk and limbs in every direction, 
so that they are easily broken by the wind. It seems that trees of 
the natural growth are not so liable to be injured in this way as 
those which have been transplanted; be this as it may, it is to be 
feared that, from the ravages of this destroyer and the neglect of 
the inhabitants to preserve and propagate so valuable a tree, 
the Locust will in time become rare even where it once grew in 
abundance. 

Sweet Locust or Honey Locust (Gleditschia triacanthos) belongs 
peculiarly to the country west of the Allegheny mountains, but is 
sometimes found in the limestone valleys east of them. The 
leaves are pinnated, and much smaller than those of the common 
Locust, But the most distinguishing characteristics of this tree 
are the large strong thorns which cover the branches and some- 
times the trunk. The large middle thorn is often two or three 
inches long, and has two others branching from it of about half 
its size. The flower is small, and the seed pods very broad, flat 
and long. If the wood possessed good qualities, it is not suffici- 
ently abundant to be useful. 

Sassafras (Laums sassafras) is a common tree about the borders 
of woodlands and fence rows ; but the wood being weak and brit- 
tle is not much valued. The bark of the roots is highly aromatic, 
and contains an essential oil which is used in medicine as a stimu- 
lant and sudorific. The bark of the tree is also aromatic, and the 
leaves and young branches mucilaginous. 

Wild Cherry (^Primus virginiana) is a valuable tree when allowed 
to grow to a large size. The wood is much esteemed, and is used 
by cabinetmakers as a substitute for mahogany in the manufac- 
ture of furniture and other articles. It is of a reddish colour, com- 
pact and fine grained, bearing a handsome pohsh. The berries 
are very bitter, and the bark is a valuable tonic medicine. 

Persimmon {Diosijyros virginiana) grows most commonly in 
wet, heavy soils, in and about the sides of neglected fields and 
open grounds. It bears a round fleshy fruit, nearly an inch in 
diameter, of a reddish colour when ripe, which is very harsh and 
astringent to the taste until after a few frosts, when it becomes 
soft and palatable. The wood is hard, compact, strong and elastic, 
and is used for screws, mallets, shoe lasts, Avedges, &c. The bark 
is tonic and astringent. 

Of the Aspen tree we have several species. The American 
Aspen (Populus tremuloides) is most common in open lands where 



BOTANY. 6& 

the soil is of a middling quality. It blossoms in the latter part of 
April, before the leaves appear. The leaves are heart-shaped, 
about two inches broad, grooving upon long slender petioles or 
stems, and are thrown into motion by the gentlest breath of air. 
From this almost constant tremulous movement of the leaves, the 
tree is frequently called Q,uaking Aspen. The Large Aspen (Popu- 
lus gi-andidentata) and the Various-leaved Aspen (P. heterophylla,) 
are not generally abundant. The wood of this family of trees is 
light, soft, brittle and of little value. 

Chesnut ( Castanea vesca) is common in most parts of the State, 
but grows most abundantly in hilly regions, where the soil in ge- 
neral is gravelly and rather dry. This tree lives to a great age, and 
frequently attains an extraordinary size. One is said to exist on 
Mount Etna, which is fifty-three feet in diameter, or one hundred 
and sixty feet in circumference ; but it is hollow within, almost to 
the bark. Others grow near it which are more than twenty feet in 
diameter. Michaux mentions one growing at Sancerre, in France, 
which at six feet from the ground measures thirty feet in circum- 
ference, and which, though supposed to be more than one thou- 
sand years old, is perfectly sound, and bears fruit annually. The 
wood of the chesnut tree is strong, considering its lightness and 
porosity, and is especially valuable on account of its durability. 
It is much esteemed for fences, as posts and rails made from it last 
longer than those from any of the common forest trees, and are 
only excelled in this respect by the locust, cedar, and perhaps, a 
few other kinds of more rare timber. It is not held in much esti- 
mation for firewood, but is largely used in the manufacture of 
charcoal for the supply of the iron works in the interior of the 
State. Being of rapid growth, this timber soon renews itself on 
the coaling grounds, and will bear cutting every sixteen or twenty 
years. 

Chincapiti, (Castanea pumila) though abundant in Maryland and 
the states farther south, is not much known in Pennsylvania, 
except in some of the southern counties. It is a small tree, or 
more generally appears in the form of a large shrub, from seven 
to twelve feet in height, and is only worthy of notice on account 
of its fruit, the outer covering of which resembles that of the 
chesnut, only half as large. The nut is convex on both sides, like 
an acorn ; it is sold in the markets, but is less esteemed than the 
chesnut. 

White Beech (Fagiis sylvestris) and Red Beech (Fagus fer- 
niginea^ are both found in Pennsylvania ; the latter being most 
abundant in the ^northern part of the State. The white beech pre- 
fers a deep moist soil and cool situations, generally growing in low 
grounds and along the borders of streams. The heart or perfect 
wood of this species bears a small proportion to the sap, frequently 
occupying but a few inches in the trunk of a large tree. The 
seeds of the white beech are ovate triangular and obtuse at the 
smaller end : those of the red beech are acutely triangular and 
pointed at the end. The heart-wood of the red beech occupies 
most of the trunk, and the wood is stronger^ tougher and more 

6* 



66 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

compact. It is, however, liable to injury from worms, to speedy- 
decay when exposed to changes of dryness and moisture, and is 
seldom used in building. It is employed for various kinds of tools, 
shoe lasts, the boards of wool cards, and other purposes. It makes 
good fuel when dry, and is said to yield excellent charcoal. 

Hornbeam ( Carj>im<s americana) and Iron Wood (C. ostrya) are 
not uncommon in low moist grounds. They are small trees and 
not particularly useful, though the wood is white, compact and 
fine grained. The seeds are borne in clusters resembling hops. 

Of the Sour Gum we have two species, the Black Gum (J^yssa 
sylvatica) and the Tupelo or Sour Gum (jVyssa aquatica.) The 
black gum is usually a larger tree, and grows on more elevated 
grounds than the latter, which prefers the borders of swamps and 
wet soils. The fibres of the wood are peculiarly twisted and 
interwoven, Avhich renders it very difficult to split : for this reason 
it is frequently used for the hubs of wagon and carriage wheels, 
and also for hatters' blocks. As a fuel it consumes very slowly, 
and is often used for the back lo^s in fireplaces. 

Red Mulberry (Moms nibra) is not uncommon in fertile soils, 
where it sometimes attains a considerable size. Though belonging 
to the order moncecia, the fertile and barren flowers frequently grow 
on separate trees, which is the reason why some mulberry trees 
never bear fruit. The wood is yellow, strong and compact, and 
when seasoned is almost or quite equal to the locust in durability. 

Of the Ash we have several species : the White Ash (Fraxiniis 
americana,) the Red Ash (F. tomentosa) and the Black Ash (F. 
sambiicifolia) being the most common. The wood of the white 
and red ash is highly esteemed for its strength and elasticity, and 
is advantageously employed for a great variety of uses by coach- 
makers and the manufacturers of many agricultural implements, 
in which strength, elasticity and lightness are required. It is pre- 
ferred to any other wood for oars, and is used for handspikes and 
the blocks of pulleys. The wood of the black ash is of a brown 
colour, and not so much used as that of the other species. 

Willow of several kinds grows in Pennsylvania, besides some 
species introduced from Europe, but we shall not notice them par- 
ticularly, as they are appHed to few useful purposes, except the 
twigs of some species of which baskets are made ; and for the 
manufacture of charcoal for making gunpowder. 

White Elm ( Ulmiis americana) grows in moist and fertile grounds 
in company with the maple, gum, shell bark hickory, and such 
trees as delight in similar situations. It frequently attains a great 
height, and is a noble tree with long, flexible, pendulous branches, 
forming a top of fair proportions and great beauty. The wood is 
of a brown colour, and being inferior in solidity, hardness and 
strength to many other kinds, is not much employed by mechanics. 
Red elm. Slippery elm (Ulmus rubra or fulva) has larger, thicker, 
and rougher leaves than the white elm ; the bark is also of a darker 
colour. The wood has a dufl red tinge, and is rather coarser 
grained and less compact, but is said to be more durable than that 
of the other species. The inner bark, when soaked or chewed. 



BOTANY. 67 

yields a great amount of mucilage, and is used in medical pre- 
scriptions on that account. 

The Linden, Lime tree or Bass wood (Tilia americana) is not 
uncommon along the banks of rivers and in deep rich soils. 
There is another species called the White linden ( Tilia alba) which 
much resembles the former, but is a smaller tree, and has the 
underside of the leaves whitish. Neither species is abundant, nor 
does the wood possess qualities to render it much esteemed. 

Pines. The Pitch Pine (Piiius rigida) and Scrub Pine (P. inops) 
are most common in light, sandy or stony soils, and on barren 
mountain ridges. They are not usually distinguished from each 
other, being both called by the names of pitch pine or yellow pine. 
The true Yellow pine (Finns mitis) is not very common in Penn- 
sylvania ; but grows abundantly in the sandy soil of the lower 
part of New Jersey and the eastern shore of Maryland, where the 
pitch pine also abounds. The leaves of the yellow pine grow in 
pairs, (seldom in threes) and are four or five inches long ; while 
those of the pitch pine are in threes, and usually shorter. The 
buds of the pitch pine are always resinous ; the bark is thick, dark 
coloured and deeply furrowed. It has many branches, occupying 
two-thirds of the trunk, on which account the wood is usually 
knotty. On mountains and gravelly lands the wood is compact, 
heavy, and filled with resin 5 but in wet grounds it is lighter, 
softer, contains but little heart-wood, and is called sap pine. The 
timber of this species is not so valuable as that of the true yellow 
pine ; but is used for sawing into boards and scantling. It makes 
an excellent fuel for purposes where a brisk flame is required, and 
is much used for heating steamboilers, bakers' ovens, and for 
burning bricks. In those parts of the State where this tree is 
abundant, tar is manufactured from the more resinous parts of it. 
The scrub pine, sometimes called Jersey pine, is smaller than the 
pitch pine ; its bark is blackish, and its limbs remote from each 
other. The leaves are in pairs, one or two inches long, stiff, and 
scattered over the young branches, which are flexible and smooth, 
while those of the other species are scaly. The wood contains a 
large proportion of sap, and is not of much use except for fire- 
wood. 

White Pine (Finns strobus,) though much less abundant in 
Pennsylvania than formerly, is still found growing in considerable 
quantity on the upper streams of the Lehigh, the head waters of 
the Susquehanna, and some of the tributaries of the Allegheny 
It is also found in other places, but thinly interspersed among the 
other forest trees. Its value as a timber for manufacturing boards, 
shingles and other lumber has caused it to be eagerly sought after, 
and such enormous quantities of it have for years been cut and 
floated down our rivers to market, that this noble tree has now 
become comparatively scarce in those parts of the State where it 
formerly grew in abundance. It is probable that in forty or fifty 
years but few trees of this species will remain, fit for making good 
lumber, and that some substitute must be found for a timber now 
so universally useful. The height to which this ancient and 



68 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

majestic inhabitant of our forests attains is almost incredible : on 
viewing from a distance the timber lands where it grows, the sum- 
mits of the pines may be seen towering far above the surrounding 
trees, and lifting their noble heads majestically above their meaner 
and more humble companions. Trunks are frequently felled 
measuring from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in 
length and four or five feet in diameter at the base. When this 
tree grows in thick and crowded forests it is almost destitute of 
branches to near the top ; but when growing alone, or more 
widely separated from other trees, the branches are numerous and 
verticillate, or disposed opposite to each other around the trunk at 
intervals, forming a fine cone-shaped top. The leaves, like those 
of the other pines, spring from a little sheath, each of which, in 
this species, contains five leaves about four or five inches long, 
slender, and of a bluish-green colour which is peculiarly dehcate 
and beautiful on young shoots, early in the season. The wood of 
the white pine possesses many desirable quaUties ; it is white, 
soft, free from knots, easily wrought, durable, and not so liable to 
split when exposed to the sun as many other kinds of timber. The 
quality of the wood, like that of most other trees, differs according 
to the soil and situation in which it grows. In loose, deep and 
moist grounds, it is lighter and of finer texture, and may be worked 
more easily and smoothly ; while that growing on more elevated 
and dry soils has a harder, firmer and more resinous wood, with 
a coarser grain. It is not necessary, nor would it be possible, to 
mention the endless variety of objects to which this useful wood 
is applied in architecture, ship-building, carpentry, cabinet-making 
and other mechanic arts. 

Black or Double Spruce (Mies nigra) is rare except in cold and 
moist soils on the high table-lands or mountain flats in the northern 
part of the State. It is, perhaps, most abundant in the mossy 
swamps on the waters of the Lehigh, in Monroe, Pike, and Lu- 
zerne counties. This is a beautiful tree, growing to a height of 
sixty or seventy feet, with a smooth straight trunk and a pyra- 
midal top. Its wood resembles that of the Avhite pine, and is 
used for masts, boards, shingles and building timber. 

Hemlock Spruce {Abies canadensis) is common in most parts of 
the State in dark and shaded situations, on the steep banks of 
streams. In the northern counties, and on the elevated range of 
the Allegheny mountains, it grows abundantly on the high lands 
among the beeches and sugar maples, where it attains a large 
size, the older trees being often seventy or eighty feet high and 
five feet or more in diameter. The properties of the wood are 
such as to give it only a secondary importance : it is coarse grained, 
very liable to split, and the old trees frequently have the concentric 
circles or groivths separated at intervals, or as it is termed, " wind- 
shaken," which renders the timber splintery and much diminishes 
its usefulness. The Avoody fibre of the hemlock is frequently 
oblique, running spirally round the stock of the tree, which pre- 
vents its splitting in a straight line : this is a serious defect, as 
when sawed into boards or scantling it renders them " cross 



BOTANY. 69 

grained" and greatly impairs their strength. But notwithstanding 
these defects, as the white pine becomes more scarce, the hem- 
lock is substituted for it wherever it can well be done. For the 
frame work of buildings, where not exposed to the weather, it an- 
swers well, as when sound it is sufficiently strong, and being 
harder and firmer than pine, it affords a tighter hold to nails. The 
bark is used in tanning leather, and it is asserted by some that 
hemlock and oak bark mixed together are better for that purpose 
than either alone. 

Tamarack, or American Larch (Larix americand) is a small but 
graceful tree, growing in cool mountain swamps ; but even there 
it is not very common, and never attains the size to which it 
grows about Hudson's Bay and Newfoundland. Our climate is 
too warm for its northern constitution. It is not an evergreen, 
like most resinous trees ; but sheds its leaves in the fall and renews 
them in the spring. Its wood, in regions w^here it grows to a suf- 
ficient size to be useful, is considered superior to any species of 
pine or spruce, being very strong and durable. 

Red Cedar {Juniperus virginictna) is common in most parts of 
Pennsylvania ; but seldom grows large enough to make its wood 
of much use. The branches are numerous and close, growing 
near the earth and spreading out horizontally. The trunk de- 
creases rapidly in size as it ascends, and is often irregularly in- 
dented by deep crevices or furrows. If the tree, when young, 
were trimmed to two-thirds of its height, the size and regularity 
of the trunk might be improved. The wood is red, odorous, com- 
pact, fine-grained and exceedingly durable : it is, therefore, valu- 
able and highly esteemed for making posts and for other purposes 
in which its qualities are desirable. 

Many of our ornamental and shade trees are not natives, but 
have been introduced from abroad. Among these are the Lom- 
bardy and Athenian Poplars, (Fopidus dilatata and P.grmca;) the 
Paper Mulberry, (Broussonetia papyrifera ;) the Horse Chesnut, 
(v^sculus hippocastamim ;) the European Linden, (Tilia eiiropea;') 
Chinese Allan thus, (Ailanthus glandulosa;^ and others, 

Sh'ubs and Herbaceous Plants. 

The method of arranging plants together in Natural Orders ac- 
cording to the system of Jussieu, as improved by Lindley and other 
eminent botanists, affords so many advantages that we shall adopt 
it in the following short notice of some of the more common or re- 
markable genera and species which grow in Pennsylvania. By 
this method plants are brought together in groups or families, in 
which the different individuals resemble each other in their exter- 
nal appearance and internal structure, as well as their general 
qualities and medicinal properties. The artificial system of Lin- 
nasus, however, affords invaluable aid in determining the genus 
and species of a plant, and no student of botany should neglect to 
make himself familiar with both the natural and artificial systems. 

Those introduced plants which have become naturalized in our 
State are marked thus * for the purpose of distinction. 



70 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Ranuncdlace^. The Crowfoot tribe. 
Crowfoot, Ranunculus, many species ; generally m moist low grounds ; fl. May, June. 
Wind flower, Anemone, several species ; woodlands and fence rows ; fl. April, July, 
liivervrort, Hepatica triloba ; open woods; April. 
Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis ; shady rocky banks ; May. 

Virgin's bower. Clematis virginiana ; climbing vine ; thickets and fence rows; Aug. 
Marsh marygold, Caltha palustris ; about springs and wet meadows. April. 
Black snake-root, ^ctcea racemosa ; tall ; flowers in white spikes ; woods ; June. 
Meadow rue, Thalictrum; several species; meadows and woods. May, Jfune. 

PODOPHYLLACE.'E. 

May apple. Podophyllum peltatum ; moist woods and meadows ; May : root cathartic. 

Ny.\iPH.?:ACE.f:. The Water-lily tribe. 
White water-lily, Nympluta odorata ; in ponds ; July. 
Spatter dock, Nuphar advena ; ponds and rivers ; June, Sept. 

Papaverace.i:. The Poppy tribe. 
Blood-root, Sanguinari.a canadensis ; open woods ; April; root medicinal. 

Crucifer^e. The Cruciferous tribe. (Petals four, in the form of a cross.) 
Winter cress, Barharea ; Wall cress, Arahis ; Spring cress ; Cardamhie ; several 
species. 

Tooth wort, Dentaria laciniata ; rich woodlands ; April. 

*Shepherd's purse, Capsella bursa-pastoris ; fields and waste places ; April, Sept. 
*Pepper grass, Lepidium ; Mustard, Sinapis ; Radish, Raphanus ; Cabbage, £rassica; 
and several other introduced garden plants also belong to this order. 
PoLYGALACE.f:. The Milk wort tribe. 
Seneca snake-root, Polynda senega ; dry hilly Avoods ; May. 
Purple milk wort, P. purpurea; fields and meadows ; July : and some other species. 

ViOLACE.E. The Violet tribe. 
Violet, Viola, many species ; woods ana meadows ; Apr. May, June. 

HvPERiCACE.iE. The John's wort tribe. 
John's wort, Hypericum; several species. The H. perforatum is common in fields and 
pastures and is acrid, producing sores on horses and cattle which have white feet and noses, 
the skin of such being more tender than others. 
CaryophyllacE;E. The Pink tribe. 
Catch-fly, Silene antirrhina ; viscid ; dry sandy fields ; June : other species. 
Four leaved campion ; S. stellata ( Cucubalus ;) dry woodlands. July. 
*Cockle, Jlgrostemma githago ; fields, among grain ; June. 

PoRTDLACACE,i:. The Purslane tribe. 
*Purslane, Portulaca oleracea; gardens and cultivated grounds ; July. 
Spring beauty, Claytonia virginica ; moist low grounds ; April. 

Geraniace.e. The Geranium tribe. 
Crane's bill. Geranium maculatum; woods and meadows ; May; other species. 

Balsa.minace^, 
Snap weed. Touch-me-not, Tmpatiens, two species ; wet shady places; July. 

OxAMDACE.E. The Sorrel tribe. 
Sorrel, Oxalis, several species ; woods and fields ; May, June. 

Anacardiace^e. 
Stag's horn sumac, Rhus typhina ; rocky hills ; June ; branches hairy. 
Mountain sumac, R. copallina; dry rocky hills ; July. 

Common sumac, R. glabra ; old fields and fence rows ; used in tanning morocco. 
Poison sumac, R. venenata ; low grounds along streams ; June. 
Poison vine, R. radicans ; woods and fence rows ; May, June. 

Malvace.e. The Mallow tribe. 
*Mallows, Malva; Hollyhock, Althaa; Hibiscus, 4'c. are introduced plants. 

ViTACE.E. The Vine tribe. 
Fox Grape, Vitis labrusca; Chicken grape, V. vulpina; and other species. 
Creeper, False grape ; Ampelopsis quinquefolia ; woods, thickets and fences; July, 

CELASTRACEiE. 

False bittersweet, Celastrus scandens ; climbing shrub ; woods and fences ; June. 
Burning bush, Euonymus, two species ; woods ; June. 

Rhamnaceje. 
New Jersey Tea, Ceanothus amcricanits ; small shrub ; woods; June. 

LEGrMiNO-Si.E. The Bean tribe. 
"WWihe^in, Phaseolus perennis ; woods; July. Also Vida, Apios, Ampkicarpa, 
Goat's rue, Tephrosia virginiana ; dry hilly woods; July. 
*Clover, Trifolium, several species, most of which are introduced plants. 
Wood trefoil, Desmodium, [Hedysarum) many species ; woods ; Aug. 
Bush clover, Lespedeza, five or six species ; dry hills and woods ; Aug. 
Rattle-box, Crotalaria sagittalis; dry and sandy fields and woods; July. 
Wild indigo, Baptisia tinctoria ; dry hilly woods ; July, Aug. 
Wild senna, Cassia inarilandica ; low alluvial grounds ; Aug. ; medicinal. 
Wild sensitive-plant, Cassia nictitans ; small ; dry sandy places ; Aug. 
Partridge pea; Cassia chamacrista; dry sandy soils ; July. 



BOTANY. 71 

RoSACEjE. The Rose tribe. 
Nine bark, Spirtea opulifolia ; shrub ; low moist grounds ; June. 
Meadow sweet, S. salidjolia ; low wet places ; June : other species. 
Indian physic, Gilleniatrifoliata; woods and thickets ; medicinal. 
Cinque-foil, Potentilla, several species ; fields and woods ; May, July. 
Strawberry, Fragaria virginiana ; fields, fence rows, &c. May. 
Raspberry, Ruhus occidentalis and other species : fences and borders of woods ; May. 
Flowering raspberry, R. odoratus ; flowers large ; thornless ; rocky hills : June, Aug. 
Blackberry, R. villostts, and other species ; borders of fields ; May, June. 
Dewberry or running brier ; R. trivialis ; old fields ; May, June. 
Wild rose, Rosa parviftora ; borders of woods and old fields; June. 
Swamp rose, R. Carolina ; thickets and wet grounds ; June, July. 
*Sweet brier, Eglantine, R. ruhiginosa ; road sides and dry banks ; June, 
Hawthorn, Cratagus, several species ; borders of woods, &c. May, June. 
Red plum, Pninus americana ; low grounds about meadows, &c. April. 
To this order also belong the Cherry, Cerasus ; Apple and Pear, Pyrus, 

Onagraceje. Evening primrose tribe. 
Evening primrose, CEnothera biennis and other species; fields, &c. June, July. 
Willow-herb, Epilobiiim, several species ; moist grounds ; July, Aug. 
Enchanter's night-shade, Circcea lutetiana ; moist shady woods ; July. 

GROSSULARIACE.E. The Currant tribe. 
Wild currant, Jii6es_/foridM?n.; borders of woods ; May: berries black. 
Wild gooseberry, R. rotundifolium ; mountains and rocky woods ; May. 

Saxifragace^e. The Saxifrage tribe. 
Saxifrage, Saocifraga virginica ; dry rocky banks and woods ; April. 
Tall saxifrage, S. pennsylvanica ; wet meadows; May. 

Golden saxifrage, Chrysosplenium oppositifolium ; springs and brooks ; May. 
Alum root, Heuchera americana ; woods ; June : root astringent. 

Hamamelace^. 
Witch hazel, Hamamelis virginica; shrub; moist woods and thickets: the flowers ap- 
pear in Autumn after the leaves have fallen, and the seeds ripen the next season. 
Umbellifer^. The Umbelliferous tribe. 

Water hemlock, Cicuta mnculata ; meadows and wet grounds ; July: poisonous. 

Water parsnep. Slum latifolium ; low grounds, along streams; July- 
Angelica, Jlngelica atropurpurea ; stem purple; meadows; June, 

Cow parsnep, Heracleum lanatum ; large ; low grounds ; June : called poisonous. 

*Wild parsnep, Pastinaca sativa^ and Wild carrot, Daucus carota, have escaped from the 
gardens and become naturalized. The latter is troublesome in fields. 

*Poison hemlock, Conium mnculatum ; waste places about buildings; July. 
Araliace^e. The Aralia tribe. 

False sarsaparilla, Jlralia nudicaiilis ; rich rocky woodlands ; May. 

Spikenard, A. racemosa ; moist rich woods ; July. 

Ginseng, Panax qmnquefolium ; rich woods ; July : rare in the eastern counties. 

Dwarf ginseng, P. trifolium ; moist shady woods ; April ; root globular. 
Caprifoliace^. The Honeysuckle tribe. 

Honeysuckle, Lonicera, several species ; rocky woods ; May, June. 

Horse gentian. Fever root, Triosteum perfoliatum ; woods ; May : root medicinal. 

Black haw. Sloe, Vihurnmn jrrunifalium ; small tree; thickets; May. 

Arrow wood, V. ncerifolium ; woods ; June. 

Hobble bush, V. lantanoides ; mountain woods ; June : (other species of V.) 

Common elder, Sambucus canadejisis ; thickets and fence rows ; June. 

Red berried elder, S. pubens ; mountains; May. 

RUB1ACE.,E. 

Partridge berry, Mitchella repens ; creeping evergreen ; woods. June. 
Button bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis ; shrub; swamj)s and streams ; July. 
Bed straw. Goose grass, Galium, eight or nine species, moist shady places ; July. 
Innocence, Hcdyotis carulea {Houstonia;) fl. small, blue ; grassy banks. April, Sept. 

DirSAf'E.E. 

*Wild teasel, Dipsacus sylvestris; road sides and waste places ; July. 

COMPOSTT.E. 

Thistle, Carduus, several species ; fields, fence rows, &c. June, Aug. 
Wild lettuce, Lactuca elongata ; thickets and fences ; July. 
*Dandelion, Leontodon taraxacum ; road sides and pastures ; April, Sept, 
Lion's-foot, Prenanthcs alba; dry woods and clearings ; Aug. 
Sow thistle, Sonchus, several species ; woods and cultivated grounds ; Aug. 
Hawk-weed, Hieroceumrerwsiwn; leaves red veined ; woods; May: other species. 
Meadow iron weed, Vernonia noveboracensis ; tall; fl. purple; low grounds; Aug. 
Blue blazing-star, Liatris spicata ; moist grounds, borders of woods ; Aug. 
Boneset, Eupatorium perfoliatum ; meadows and low grounds ; Aug. : medicinal. 
Golden rod, Solidago, many species ; fields, woods, &c. Aug., Sept. 
Star-flower, Jlster, many species ; woods, fields and meadows. Aug , Sept. 
Flea bane, Erigeron, several species ; fields and woods ; June, Aug. 



72 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

*Elecampane, Inula helenium ; farms and road sides ; July. 

Clot-bur ; Xanthium strumarium : X. spinosum has ternate thorns; farm yards, Aug. 

Rag-weed, Ambrosia, two species ; fields and fence rows : Aug. 

Wild sun-flower, Helianthus ; woods and thickets : July, Aug. 

Heliopsis, Rudbeckia, Helenium, 4i'c. are sunflower like. 
Spanish needle. Bur marygold, Bidens, several species; low grounds, &c. Aug. 
*Yarrow, Achillea millefolium ; pastures and fences ; June, Sept. 
*Ox-eye daisy. Chrysanthemum leucanthemmn ; fields and meadows ; June. 
*Wild chamomile, Hog-weed, Anthemis cotula ; farm yards, lanes, &c. June. 
Sweet Balsam, Gnaj)halium polycephalum ; old fields, &c. Aug: other species. 
Groundsel, Senecio, several species ; moist grounds ; May, June, July. 
Indian plantain, Cacalia atriplicifolia ; tall; moist shady places ; July, Aug. 

LOBELIACE.E. 

Indian tobacco. Lobelia inflata; pastures and road sides; July, Sept; medicinal. 

Cardinal flower, L. cardinalis ; bright crimson ; wet places ; July, Sept. other species. 
Ericaceje. 

Spicy winter-green, Teaberry, Gaulthcria procumbens ; mountains and dry hills ; June. 

Ground laurel, £pig(ea rcjjeris; creeping evergreen; hilly woods; April 

Pepper bush, Andromeda; several species ; woods and thickets; June. 

Laurel, Calico bush ; Kalmia latifolia ; rocky hills; May, June. 

Dwarf laurel, K. a.ns,ustifolia ; low moist grounds ; June : said to be poisonous to sheep. 

Large or mountain laurel. Rhododendron maxiit m; moist grounds along creeks and 
rivers, but largest in mountain swamps, where it sometimes forms almost impenetrable 
thickets: flowers in large clusters, — pale rose coloured; June, July. 

Bush honeysuckle, RJiododemlron {Azalea,) several species ; woods ; May, June. 
Vaccineje. 

Whortleberry or Huckleberry, Vacciyiium, several species ; Avoods ; May, June. 

Cranberry, Oxycoccus macrocarpus ; swamps ; June ; not common. 

PyROLE^. 

Winter-green, Shin-leaf, Pyrola, several species ; woods ; June, July. 
Pipssissawa, Chimaphila, two species ; woodlands ; June. 

ASCLEPIAD^E. 

Milk-weed, Swallow wort, Asclepias, many species; woods and fields; June, July. 
Pleurisy root, Asclepias tuberosa, not milky ; fl. orange colour; fields and fences ; July. 

GeNTIANACEjE. 

Soapwort gentian, Gentiana saponaria; low wet places ; Sept. — root tonic. 
Fringed gentian, G. crinita; fl. handsome ; blue ; hilly open woods ; Sept. 
Centaury, Sabhatia annularis; old fields; July: bitter and tonic. 

CoNVOLVULACEiE. 

Bindweed, ConroJr«/i«, twining vine ; dry sandy soils ; June, July; several species. 
Dodder, Cuscuta americana, small yellow vine ; parasitic ; moist low grounds ; Aug. 
*Flax vine, Cuscuta europea ? — parasitic on flax ; June. 

B0RAGINACE.E. 
Lung- wort, Pulmonaria virginica; sandy low grounds ; April, May. 
Hound's tongue, Gynoglossumvirginicum; rich woodlands ; May, June. 

* C. officinale ; road sides, about buildings, &c. May. 
Forget-me-not, Myosotis palustris ; fl. small, blue ; ditches and wet grounds ; May, Aug. 

Labiat.e. The Mint tribe. 
*Spear mint Mentha viridis ; moist grounds and along streams ; July, Aug. 
*Pepper mint, M. piperita; stem purple ; wet places; Aug. 

Horse mint, Monarda, several species; borders of woods and thickets ; July, Aug. 
Wild basil, Pycnanthemum, several species ; woods and thickets ; July, Aug. 
Horse balm, Collinsonia canadensis ; rich shady woods ; July, Aug. 
Dittany, Cunila mariana ; dry hilly woods ; diaphoretic. 
Pennyroj'al, Hedeoma pulegioides ; old fields, dry soils ; Aug : diaphoretic. 
Self-heal, Prunella vulgaris ; woods, road sides, &c. 

Scull cap, Scutellaria ; several species ; woods, thickets & low grounds ; June, Aug. 
*Catnep, Nepeta cat aria ; fence rows, and cultivated lots; July, Aug. 
*Ground ivy, N. glechoma ; about fences and shady places ; May, June. 
*Dead nettle, Lamium amplcxicaule ; cultivated lots , April, May. 
Hedge nettle, Stacliys, several species ; moist grounds : July, Aug. 
Bluecurls, Trichostema dichotoma; old fields, Aug. 
Germander, Wood sage, Teucrium canadense ; moist shady grounds; July, 

SCROPHULARIACE.E. 

Fig-wort, Scrophularia marilandica ; woods and fences ; July. 

*Toad flax, Ranstead weed ; Linaria vulgaris (Antirrhinum) pastures and fences ; June. 
Monkey flower, Mimulus, two species ; meadows and wet places ; Aug. 
Snake-head, Chelone glabra ; swamps and streams : Aug. 

Yellow fox-glove, Gerardia flava ; woods; July; G. purpurea; swamps; Aug: other 
species. 
Speedwell, Veronica ; several species ; generally in moist grounds ; May, June. 



BOTANY. 73 

Orobanche^. 
Squaw-root, Cancer-root ; Orobanche, two species ; May, June, 
Beech-drops, Epiphegiis americanus ; under beech trees. Sept. Astringent. 

Verbenace^. 
Vervain, Verbena, several species ; road sides, low grounds, &c. July, Aug. 
Lof seed, Phryina leptostachya ; borders of woods ; July. 

Primdlaceje. 
Loose-strife, Lysimachiaf several species ; borders of woods and low grounds ; June, July. 

Plantagine^. 
Plantain, Plantago, several species ' fields, &c. June — Sept. 
*Ripple, Buck-horn, P. lanceolata; clover and pasture fields, 

Phytolacce^. 
Poke-weed, Phytolacca decandra; rich soils, borders of woods, 8ic. June, Sept. 

POLYGONACE^. 

Knot-weed, Polygonum; many species ; road sides, moist grounds, &c. June, Sept. 
*Buckwheat, P. fagopyrum, cultivated fields ; Aug, Sept. 

Wild buckwheat vine, P. scandens, moist thickets: P. convolvulus; fields, &c., July. 
Dock, Rumex; several species ; cultivated grounds and moist places ; June, July, 
Sheep sorrel, R. acetosella ; dry sandy soils, fields and road sides ; May. 

Laurace^. 
Spice wood, Laurus benzoin ; shrub ; moist grounds ; April : aromatic stimulant. 

ARISTO LOCHIA. 

Virginia snake root, Aristolochia serpentaria ', woods ; June : root aromatic. 
Wild ginger, Colt's foot, Asarum canadense ; woods ; May : root strongly aromatic. 

Thymelaceje. 
Leather- wood, Dirca palustris ; swampy woods ; shrub : bark very tough. 

Edphorbiace^. 
Spurge, Euphorbia, several species ; milky ; fields and road sides ; July. 

Urticace^. 
Nettle, Urtica. several species; False nettle, Boehmeria cylindrica ; July. 
Hop vine, Hamulus lupulus; gardens and wild in thickets ; July, Aug. 

Saururace^. 
Lizard-tail, Sawnnrus cemuus ; swamps and streams ; July, 

Amentace^ : mostly trees. 
Hazel-nut, Corylus am,encana ; thickets and fence rows ; April. 
Alder, Alnus semdata ; swamps and streams ; April. 
Sweet fern, Com,ptQnia asplemfolia ; shrubby; dry hills and woods ; April. 

Iridace^. • 

Blue flag, Iris, two or three species ; wet groimds ; June. 
Blue-eyed grass, Sisyrinchium, two species ; woods and meadows ; May, June. 

Orchide^. 
Orchis, Orchis spectabilis ; rich woodlands ; May. 

Habenaria, Habenaria ; several species : moist low grounds ; June, July, 
Tway-blade, Liparis lilifolia (Malaads ;) moist woods; June. 
Coral root, Corallorhiza, several species ; woodlands ; May, Aug, 
Rattlesnake-plantain, Goodyera pubescens ; leaves white veined ; woods; July, 
Lady's tresses, Spiranthes, {Neottia) meadows and moist open woods ; July, Aug. 
Moccasin flower, Cypripedium ; two or three species ; woods and thickets ; May, June. 
The genera Arethusa, Pogonia, Cahpogon, Triphora, <5"c. also belong to this order : grow- 
ing mostly in swamps and moist thickets; not very common; flowers curious and beautiful. 

MELANTHACEa:. 

Black flower, Melanthium virginicum ; wet meadows : July. 

Indian poke. White hellebore, Veratrum vijide ; swamps and thickets ; May. 

Blazing star, Helonias, two or three species ; meadows and wet grounds ; May, June, 

Trilliace,b. 
Three leaved nightshade, Trillium, several species ; moist shady woods ; May, 
Indian cucumber, Gyromia virginica {Medeola;) shady moist grounds; June, 

Liliace;e. 
Wild lily, Lilium, several species ; meadows and borders of woods, June, July. 
Dog-tooth violet, Effythronium americanum; moist low grounds ; April. 
Solomon's seal, Convallaria, several species, woods and moist grounds ; May June. 
Bell-wort, Uvularia, two species ; woods and meadow hanks ; May. 
Star grass, Aletris farinosa ; open woods and borders of thickets ; July. 
Grarlic, Allium, several species ; pastures, woods and meadows ; June, July. 

ALISMACE.t. 

Arrow-head, Sagittaria; species and varieties ; ditches and wet grounds ; July, Aug. 
Water plantain, Alisma plantago ; rivulets and wet places ; July. 

Jdnce^. 
Rush, Juncus, various species ; wet low grounds ; June, July. 

Smilace*. 
Green brier, Smilax, several species, moist thickets, &c. May, June. 

7 



74 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Aroide^. 
Indian turnep, Jlrum triphyllum', moist shady places ; May; medicinah 
Green dragon, w3. dracontium; alluvial grounds; May, June. 
Skunk cabbage, Symplo carpus fodida ; low wet places ; Feb., March ; medicinal. 
Golden club, Ororitium aquaticum ; in ponds and streams ; May, 
Calamus, Acorus calamus ; swampy meadows ; May, June ; Aromatic. 

TYFHACEiE. 

Cat-tail, Typha, two species ; about ponds and wet places ; June. 

Bur-reed, Sparganium, one or two species ; ponds.and streams, July. 
Fluviales. 

Pond-weed, Potamogeton ; several species ; in water of ponds and slow streams, July. 
CyperacEjE. The Sedge tribe. 

This order includes Cyperus, Scirpus, Eriophorum and other genera of coarse rough 
swamp grasses. The genus Carex, Sedge Grass, of which we have a great number of 
species, also belong to it. 

GRAMINE.E. The Grass tribe. 

In this order are included the grasses proper and the cereal grains, such as wheat, rye, 
oats, barley, &c. Many of these, however, are not native plants, but have been introduced 
by agriculturists and have become naturalized. A few only of the more common kinds will 
be enumerated. 

*Crab-grass, Digitaria, two species; cultivated grounds; July. 

*Fox-tail grass, Setaria {Pennisetum ;) stubble fields, &c. July; sometimes called crab- 
grass. 

Poverty-grass, Aristida, dry sterile fields ; Aug. 

*Herd-grass, Red-top, Agrostis ; pastures and meadows; July. 

*Timotny, Phleum pratense ; fields and meadows ; July. 

*Sweet scented Vernal-grass, Anthoxanthum odoratum ; meadows, &c. June. 

*Sofl-grass, Feather-grass, Holcus lanatus; light coloured, downy ; meadows ; June, July. 

*Oats, Avena ; cultivated; July. 

Oat-grass, Daiithonia spicata ; dry banks, borders of woods, &c. June. 

'Cheat, or chess, Bromus sccalinus; cultivated grounds among wheat and rye ; June. 

Respecting the last named species, Dr. Darlington, an eminent botanist of Chester county 
in this State, makes the following observation. " This well known troublesome grass is a natu- 
ralized foreigner, and obstinately accompanies our crops of wheat and rye. Frequently when 
the wheat has been injured by the winter, or other cause, the Bromus is very abundant ; and 
many farmers are so little acquainted with the laws of nature, — and therefore prone to 
absurd mistakes, — that they imagine the wheat has been transformed into Bromus or Cheat. 
This vulgar error also prevails among the peasantry of Europe : but in the old world, they 
think the wheat is transmuted into Lolium. temulentum, or Darnel, — quite a distinct grass 
from Bromus, — -and which is yet rare in the United States." 

Spear-grass, Green-grass, Poa pratensis ; meadows, fields, &c. May, June. 

Blue-grass, Poa compressa ; fields and pastures ; June. (Several other species of Poa.) 

*Orchard-grass, Dactylis glomerata ; fields, meadows, &.C. May, June. 

*Dog's-tail-grass, Eleusine indica; lanes, foot paths, &c. July, Aug, 

*Rye, Secale cereale ; cultivated fields ; June. Diseased black seeds used in medicine. 

Wild-rye, Elymus, several species; banks of streams, &c. July. 

*Wheat, IViticum sativum ; cultivated fields; June. 

*Barley, Hordeum, two species ; fields ; May, June. 

Wood-grass, Andropogon, several species ; old fields and sterile soils ; Aug. Sept. 

White grass. Rice grass, Leersia, two species ; borders of swamps and ditches ; Aug. 

Water Oats, Wild-rice, Reed, Zizania aquatica', streams and swamps. Aug. 

Indian corn, Zeamays; cultivated ; July, Aug. 
Eqdisetace.e. 

Scouring rush, Equisetum hyem,ale ; swamps and moist grounds ; June. 

Horse -tail, Equisetum arvcnse ; low groimds ; April, (other species.) 
FiLiCES. The Fern tribe. 

Polypody, Polypodium, several species ; moist rocky woods ; July. 

Shield fern, Aspidium, several species; moist woods and thickets; July. 

Spleen fern, Asplenium, various species; shady rocky woods; July. 

Brake, or Bracken, Ptcris, two species ; woods and thickets ; June, July. 

Maiden hair, Adiantum pedaium,; shady rocky woods ; July. 

Flowering fern, Osmunda, three species ; moist low grounds ; July. 
Adders-tongue, Ophioglossum vulgatum; moist low grounds and thickets; June. 

Rattle-snake fern, Botrychium virginicum ; woods and rocky hills ; May, June. 

Botrychiumfumarioides ; moist grounds, woods, &c. July, Aug. 

LyCOPODIACEjE. 

Club moss, Lycopodium, several species ; woods and thickets ; July. 



BOTANY. 75 

What is said of the utihty of the oak tree ? For what purposes are its 
wood and bark useful ? Which kind of oak is most esteemed, and why ? 
What is said of the post oak ? — Swamp white oak? — Swamp chesnut oak? 
Rock chesnut oak? — Laurel oak? Where does the scrub oak grow 
abundantly ? For what is Spanish oak valuable ? What is said of black 
oak, and of its bark ? Describe the scarlet oak and tell how it may be dis- 
tinguished from the Spanish and the red oak. Mention the principal cha- 
racters of the red oak. Where does the pin oak grow, and what is said of 
it ? Give a description of the black walnut, and the qualities of its wood. 
For what is the white walnut tree useful ? What are the properties of hick- 
ory wood, and for what purpose valuable ? — Mention the different kinds of 
hickory ? How may we distinguish the red and white maple ? What is 
said of the wood and bark of the maple ? What varieties of sugar maple 
have we, and where do they grow ? What ornamental wood is obtained 
from the sugar maple ? Describe the process of obtaining sap and making 
sugar from the maple. What other kinds of maple are mentioned, and 
where do they grow ? What is said of the small magnoha ? — Of the cu- 
cumber tree ? Of the papaw ? Describe the poplar or tulip tree, and the 
uses of its wood and bark ? In what places does the sweet gum tree grow ? 
What is said of the button wood or sycamore? — Of the catalpa? — Of the 
crab apple ? — Of the may cherry and its fruit ? Mention three kinds of 
birch, and the characters of each ? Where does the locust tree grow most 
abundantly, and what is said of its wood ? How does the sweet or honey 
locust differ from the other ? What is said of the wood and bark of the 
sassafras ? — Of the wild cherry ? Where does the persimmon grow, and 
what is said of it ? Mention the different species of aspen tree ? What 
can you tell about the chesnut tree, and the uses of its wood ? Where is 
the chincapin found ? What kinds of beech grow in Pennsylvania, and 
what are their quahties ? What is said of the horn-beam and iron-wood 
trees? How many species of sour gum have we, and for what is the 
wood used ? What can you tell about the red mulberry ? How many 
kinds of ash are mentioned and what are the qualities of the wood ? What 
kinds of elm, and their distinctive characters ? — Of the linden tree ? How 
can we distinguish the pitch pine, the scrub pine, and the yellow pine? 
What are the properties of their wood ? Where does the white pine grow 
most abundantly ? What is said of its height and size ? What are the 
qualities of its wood and for what purposes used ? Where does the double 
spruce grow, and what is said of it ? In what place is the hemlock spruce 
found, and what are the properties of its wood ? For what is the bark 
used? What is said of the tamarack ? Describe the red cedar and the 
quality and uses of its wood ? What ornamental shade trees are men- 
tioned as not natives of Pennsylvania ? 



8. Zoology. 

In Pennsylvania, from its geographical position, we are pre- 
sented with many of the northern and southern forms of the 
American Fauna or varieties of animal life, though the predomi- 
nant character may be said to be northern. The brief limits to 
which this portion of our work must necessarily be confined, will 
prevent us from giving more than a mere sketch of the Zoology of 
the State, and oblige us to omit the mention of such animals as 
cannot be recognized without a description. The reader who may 
desire more complete information on this subject is referred to the 
works of Godman, Harlan, Wilson, Say, and other writers on 
American Natural History. 



76 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

We commence with the class Mammalia, or those animals 
which nourish their young with milk. Of those which feed upon 
insects, besides several species of the Bat, we have of the true 
Insectivora, the Common Mole (Scalops canadensis) and the Star- 
nosed Mole (Condylura cristata,) both of which raise ridges of earth, 
by running burrows just beneath the surface. The mole of Eu- 
rope belongs to the genus Talpa. We have also several species 
of Sorex, which are considerably smaller than the moles. Sorex 
brevicaudis, but for its lengthened nose, short tail and inconspicu- 
ous ears and eyes, might be mistaken for the domestic mouse. It 
inhabits the banks of rivulets, forming galleries in the grass like 
those of field mice, that it may hunt its insect prey in greater se- 
curity. 

The Bear ( Ursiis americanus) and the Wild Cat (Lynx mfa) are 
not uncommon in the mountainous and wilder parts of the State. 
The Panther, painter or catamount, (Felis concolor,) though seldom 
seen near the settled parts of the country, still finds a secure re- 
treat in the dark and gloomy recesses of our most unfrequented 
forests. The Wolf {Liqnis occidentalism) has now become rare in 
Pennsylvania, though not many years since so common as to be 
very destructive to sheep in the new settlements. The Otter (Lu- 
tra canadensis) is also rare. The Red and Gray Fox ( Vidpes ful- 
vus and V. virginiamis) with the Raccoon (Procyon lotor) are 
quite common, and are more abundant in the neighbourhood of 
settlements than in the deep forests of the uninhabited parts of the 
State. The Pine Marten (Mmtela martes) is found in the central 
and northern counties ; its fur is fine and the skin is an important 
article of commerce : it is said that one hundred thousand are an- 
nually collected by the Hudson's Bay Fur Company. The Mink 
(Mustela vison) and the Weasel (Putorius vulgaris) are common in 
many parts of the State, and are very destructive to the poultry of 
the farmers. The Skunk (Mephitis americana) and the Opossum 
(Didelphis virginiana) are very common. 

Of the order Rodentia (having a pair of cutting teeth in the 
front of each jaw) the Beaver, (Castor Jiber,) though very rare, is 
yet sometimes found in the central counties. The Musk-rat, (Fi- 
ber zibethicus,) the Meadow mouse (Jlrvicola pennsylvanica) and 
several other species are abundant. The Jumping mouse (Gerbil- 
his canadensis) is occasionally seen ; and the Ground hog (^rcto- 
mys monax) is common, making its burrows in the sides of hills, 
and frequently in clover fields. The Porcupine (Hystrix dorsata) 
occurs in the northern and western parts of the State. Various 
species of Squirrel are common, particularly the Gray, (Sciurus 
cinereus,) the Red, (S. hudsonius,) the Ground, (Tamias stnatus,) 
and the Flying Squirrel, (Pteromys volucella.) The Hare (Lepus 
americanus) is found in the northern mountainous districts, 
and the Rabbit (Lepus sylvatica) is every where abundant. Of the 
deer family we have but two species, the Common Deer, (Cerviis 
virginiamis,) and the Elk (Cervns canadensis.) The latter animal 
should not be confounded with the Moose (Alces americanns) which 
is called elk by Enghsh authors. In fact, many of the American 



ZOOLOGY. n 

quadrupeds are of a distinct species, even when they bear the same 
name with those of the eastern continent. 

The Birds of Pennsylvania are so numerous in species that we 
must content ourselves with a mere glance at them. Among the 
birds of prey the following are not uncommon : Bald Eagle, (Hali- 
cetus leucocephnlus,) Fish-hawk, (^Pandion carolinensis,^ Redtailed- 
hawk, (Buteo borealis,) Hen-hawk, {Butcetes lagopus,^ Duck-haAvk, 
{Falco peregrimis,) Sparrow-hawk, (Cerchneis sparverius,) Great 
norned-o*vl, {Stnx virg^iniana,) and tne two smaller species, Red- 
owl, (Scops asio,) and Mottled-owl (Scops ncBvia.) 

The WhipperwiU (Anirostomus vociferus) is local in its distri- 
bution ; never appearing in certain districts but a few miles distant 
from its usual haunts. It is sometimes confounded with a more 
common bird, the Night-hawk, (Chordeiles vuginianus,) which 
wants the bristly feathers about the mouth of the former, and has 
each wing marked with a conspicuous white spot. The comb 
upon the claw of the middle toe is also remarkable. The Barn- 
swalloAV, (Hirundn rufa,) the Chimney-swallow, ( Chcetura pelas- 
gia,) and the Bank-swallow ( Cotyle nparia) are found wherever 
there are suitable places for their nests. 

The familiar Blue-bird, (Sialia sialis,) the waxen winged Cedar- 
bird (Bombycilla carolinensis,) the stately Meadow lark, (Stnmella 
ludoviciana,) with his yellow waistcoat and black cravat ; the bril- 
liant Gold-finch or Hanging bird, (Icterus baltimore,) which sus- 
pends its nest from the branch of a tree, and a host besides, give 
variety to forest and field by their beauty of colour, playful habits 
or cheerful song. Among these may be heard the sharp cry of 
the King-bird, (Tyrannns intrepidus,) as he makes a sally from his 
rude nest to attack the passing King-fisher, (Ceryle alcyon,) the 
welcome note of the Wood pewee, ( Tyrannula virens,) the queru- 
lous voice of the Jay, (Cyanocorax cristatus,) as he passes through 
the foliage to avoid observation. To this varied concert of sounds 
is added the rapid tapping noise made by the wedge-shaped bill of 
the Red-headed Woodpecker, (Melanerpes erythrocepJialus,) or the 
Flicker, ( Colaptes auratus,) upon the decayed trunks and limbs of 
trees, breaking the monotonous sound of the rustling foliage or the 
murmuring rivulet, and adding to the gratification of the admirer 
of the works of nature, who is alone able to appreciate the charms 
which so many varieties of the feathered tribe add to our forest 
scenery. 

Of scansorial birds we have two species of American cuckoo, 
(raincrow, Indian hen,) a considerable number of the Picus or 
woodpecker tribe, as the Log-cock or Wood-cock, (Dryotomus 
pileatiis,) which is rarely found east of Harrisburg; and two 
varieties of Sapsucker (Picus villosus and P. puhescens). 

The families of the Thrushes, Finches, and Flycatchers pre- 
sent us with most of their species : the Wild Turkey is still to be 
found in Pennsylvania; while the Partridge (Ortyx virginianM) 
and the Pheasant (Bonasia umbellus) are quite common in various 
districts. In New England the partridge of Pennsylvania is called 
quail, and our pheasant is called partridge. 

7* 



78 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Most of the water birds inhabiting the United States and British 
possessions in North America are found within the limits of this 
State. Those peculiar to the bays, and even some sea birds, pass 
for a considerable distance up the Delaware and Susquehanna 
rivers. Pennsylvania is favourably situated for the reception of 
many migratory species, as the Wild-goose, (Anser canadensis,) 
both on their passage northward and southward, including many 
which do not breed within its limits. 

Reptiles. We have but one species of Land-tortoise (Cistuda 
Carolina). Of those which inhabit the water, the Snapper, ( Che- 
lydra serpentina) is the most remarkable, and is highly prized as 
an article of food. Several species of Terrapins are found in our 
waters ; Emys geographica, a large one, occurs both in the eastern 
and western parts of the State^ Emys punctata, marked with small 
yellow spots; and Emys picta having the margin of the shell 
marked with red. These two small species are frequently found 
in company, in ponds and streams, reposing upon projecting logs 
and stones. 

It appears that we have but one species of Rattlesnake (Crotalus 
durissus) in Pennsylvania; the varieties of colour. Sec, belonging to 
the difference of sex and age. This is the only poisonous snake 
except the Copper-head (Tngonocephalus contortrix) of which we 
have any evidence ; the genus Heterodon, commonly called blow- 
ing or hissing Viper, being harmless. Of the genus Coluber there 
are several species, among which may be mentioned the Garter- 
snake (Coluber sirtalis,) the Ribbon snake, (C saurita,) much like 
the former. House snake, ( C. eximius,) Green snake, ( C. vernalis,) 
and Water snake (C sipedon.) 

Among the Lizards proper, the Scincus fasciatus is a beautiful 
animal Avith a blue tail and marked with five yellow stripes : the 
Tropidolepis undulatus is remarkable for the roughness of its scales. 
It is brown, with irregular cross bands of black. Both these species 
are about eight inches long, extremely active, and climb with 
great facility. 

The largest of our frogs is the Bull-frog, (Rana pipiens,) which 
is frequently eaten, and is said to be a great delicacy to the epicure. 
Besides this one, the most common species are the Shad frog, (Rana 
halecina,) green, with dark spots margined with yellow: Rana 
palustris, brown, with rows of square dark brown spots: Rana 
sylvatica, pale reddish brown ; and Hyla versicolw, tree frog. The 
common Toad is properly named Bufo americanus, being different 
from the " common toad" of Europe. 

Of the land Salamanders we will mention Salamandra symnie- 
tnca, reddish brown, with a row of scarlet spots upon each side; 
S, erythronotus, of a small size, found in the woods under stones 
and logs; and S. longicauda, yellow, spotted with black, tail as 
lono- as the body. Somewhat like the first, but of a greenish 
colour, and inhabiting the water, is the S. dorsalis. But the most 
remarkable animals of this family are the Water puppy, young 
alligator, (JVectui^s lateralis,) of the Ohio, Lake Erie, &c. two feet 
in length; and the Hellbender (Menopoma allegaiiieiisis) not quite 



ZOOLOGY. 79 

so large, with the mouth more rounded in front and without gills. 
It inhabits the west branch of the Susquehanna, and is said to 
occur in the Ohio. 

The Fishes of Pennsylvania are numerous, including some sea 
fishes which enter the eastern waters, as the Shad (Mosa sapidis- 
sima,) Herring, ( Ckipea vernalis,) Bill-fish, (Belone truncata,) Rock- 
fish, {Lahrax liiieatus,) and others. Toucning Lake Erie on the 
north-west, we possess twenty or thirty species peculiar to the 
great lakes, of which, as among the most interesting, we will 
mention the White-fish, ( Coregonus albus,) of which large quan- 
tities are caught and salted for sale. There are two or three other 
species belonging to the same genus. The great lake Trout {Sal- 
mo amethystus) sometimes attains a very large size. The different 
species of Perch and Bass ( Cichla) are much prized ; but the fish 
here called bass is different from the sheep's head bass, which is 
Scicena osciila. Several species of Cat-fish (Pimelodus) and Sucker 
( Catostomus) are not uncommon in the lake. 

Species of the two last mentioned genera are found in the west- 
ern part of the State, in the Ohio and its tributaries. The large 
perch, called white salmon, is caught at Pittsburg in the spring. 
Rock-perch (Perca chnjsop&) is rare. The Bubbler (Amblodon 
grunniens) is a large and singular fish, which feeds upon the soft 
parts of the Unio or mussel, the hard shells of which it is able to 
crush with its teeth situated in the throat. Several species of false 
herring (Hyodoii) occur here. On both sides of the Alleghenies, 
the clear mountain streams contain various species of trout. The 
genus Catostomus has many species in the east and west, known 
by the common names of Buffalo-fish, Mullet, Carp, &c. 

Of the fishes in the Delaware and Susquehanna we will only 
mention the yellow Perch {Perca Jlavescens,) the Gar, or bony 
Pike, (Lepidosteusosseus,') the Lamper-eel, (Petromyzonamericanus,') 
and several species of Sturgeon, Catfish, Eel and Sunfish. The 
last genus (Pomotis) is remarkable for guarding the place where 
its spawn is deposited, and the Cat-fishes for accompanying and 
taking care of their young. 

Insects. Pennsylvania is the northern limit of Scarabmus tityuSj 
the largest beetle found here, which is about two inches in length, 
of a yellowish-gray colour, spotted with black. We have met 
with but one native specimen. The next in size is Pnonus lati- 
collis, of a black colour, with short strong jaws, a pair of large 
bearded antennae (horns) and three spines upon each side of the 
thorax. 

Of the order Coleoptera, (beetles,) Melsheimer, a German clergy- 
man, residing at Hanover in York county, published a catalogue 
at that place in the year 1806, wherein he records one thousand 
three hundred and sixty-three species, and many others have since 
been added to the list. During the warm days of summer, various 
species of Cicindela will attract attention by the rapidity of their 
movements; flying up from the dusty road or arid sand as the 
pedestrian approaches, to alight again a short distance in advance 
of him. They are from a half to three-fourths of an inch in lengthy 



80 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

with brown or brilliant green colours ; and as they feed upon other 
insects^ their long legs, strong jaws, and great activity, enable 
them to take their prey without difficulty. Passalits cm-nutus is a 
large flat black boring beetle, common in rotten wood. We have 
more than a hundred species of the genus Elater, beetles which 
use their head and thorax as a mallet. E. oculatus is the largest: 
it is black, sprinkled with white, and has a pair of large eye-like 
velvet black spots, margined with white. The tumble bug (Ateu- 
chm IcBvis) may be frequently seen in pairs, industriously employed 
in rolling a ball containing their eggs. 

Among beetles with brilliant colours, the large Goldsmith (Oym- 
netis nitida) and the Calosoma scrutator are conspicuous. The lat- 
ter is very active, about an inch and a quarter in length, the elytra 
(wing covers) green, thorax and legs purple, the whole margined 
with reddish orange, having a metallic lustre. Should the young 
entomologist catch one in his fingers, and feel curious to know 
whether it has the power of making an impression upon his sense 
of smelling, the result would probably be the release of the captive. 
The Horn-bug {Lucanus capreolus) is generally known, and is one 
of the few insects which have received common names. It is dark 
reddish brown, nearly an inch and a half long ; the jaws of the 
male project and curve inwards, bearing some resemblance to the 
horns of an ox. Scarites subterraneiis is entirely black, less than 
an inch in length, and divided into two equal parts by a deep in- 
tersection. Its jaws are strong and projecting, and the thorax is 
wider than the wing covers. It burrows in the ground, and may 
be found beneath logs and stones. 

The order Ortlwptera includes cockroaches, crickets and grass- 
hoppers, of which we have many species. The male of the Katy- 
did (Platyphyllum concavum) enlivens the autumnal nights with a 
peculiar sound produced by its wing covers. 

Of the Homoptera, the Locust (^Cicada septemlecem) is remarka- 
ble for spending seventeen years in the grub state ; but it does not 
assume its perfect state in all parts of the country in the same year. 
As in the cricket family, the male locust alone is musical, its 
sounds being produced by a pecuUar apparatus. In English books 
our locusts are called harvest Jiies, and our grasshoppers, locusts; 
an example of the confusion which would result from the use of com- 
mon names alone. The locust, therefore, of the English Bible, 
was probably a large destructive species of grasshopper. 

Of the Hemiptera, or bug tribe, we will only mention one species, 
that it maj^ be destroyed wherever it appears. This is the Erioso- 
ma mali, or apple tree blight. It is wingless, and may be detected 
by the white cottony down with which it is enveloped. It is very 
injurious to young apple trees, and may be destroyed by pressure 
or by washing the tree with hot soapsuds. 

It is not improbable that a thousand species of Lepidoptera, the 
butter fiv family, inhabit this State. One of the most beautiful of 
those which fly during the day is the Papilio twnm, which is yel- 
low, striped with black, and of a large size. Hyalophora cecropia, 
a very large nocturnal species, measures six inches in the extent 



ZOOLOGY. 81 

of the wings, which are reddish brown, each marked with a whit- 
ish kidney-shaped spot, margined with reddish and black. Its co- 
coons have been carded and used as silk; but they cannot be un- 
wound. Catocala nupta (C sponsa of some authors) is three 
inches and a half in the extent of its wings, dull brown, the lower 
pair of wings scarlet with two broad bands of black. It is remark- 
able as being one of the few species found on both sides of the At- 
lantic. 

To those who have never attended minutely to this subject it 
may appear preposterous to suppose that we have nine thousand 
species of insects ; but upwards of twelve thousand are actually 
known to exist in Great Britain and Ireland, which, from their in- 
sular and northern position, seem to be less favourably situated 
than Pennsylvania, for the acquisition of a large number of species. 
One hundred and fifty species of Aracknidce is a low estimate, 
when we consider that about two hundred and fifty species of 
Araneidce alone, or spiders proper, are already known to inhabit 
the United States. Besides these we must take into account such 
genera as Phalangium, (long legs ;) Chelifer, which may be recog- 
nized by its claws, resembling those of a scorpion or lobster ; and 
several genera found parasitic upon other insects ; Ixodes, (tick,) 
and the Jlcaridm or mite family generally, including the nearly 
allied Hydrachnidce, which inhabit the water and resemble minute 
spiders. 

Of our Crustacea, one of the largest is Potamobius affinis, 
which inhabits the eastern waters, and is three inches in length, re- 
sembling a small lobster. It jerks itself backwards through the 
water with great rapidity by means of its tail. The number is 
made up by much smaller, and indeed microscopic species, which 
inhabit puddles and stagnant waters in the greatest profusion. 
Some of these, constituting the genera Cypris, Limnadia, and 
Daphiiia, are enclosed in a little bivalve shell like a mussel ; for the 
young of which these shells might be mistaken. This is particu- 
larly the case with a species named by S. S. Haldeman, Limnadia 
coriacea. It is a third of an inch long, inhabiting Pennsylvania 
and Indiana, and is a giant among the little Cyprides in whose 
company it is generally found. 

Annelides. These are worms with the body more or less 
plainly divided into rings, as in the various species of leech and 
earth-worm. The genus Tubifex constructs for itself a little tube, 
out of which it projects two-thirds of its body, waving it about in 
every direction in search of its food, but withdrawing itself in- 
stantly when disturbed. It resembles a thin translucent thread, 
attached to the mud by one end. A species has been detected by 
S. S. Haldeman on the margin of the Monongahela river at Pitts- 
burg, where it exists in great abundance, and which he has named 
Tubifex simplex. 

The MoLLuscA of Pennsylvania, although numerous, are con- 
fined to land and fresh-water shells, and number not less than 
eighteen genera. Of the land kinds, the largest species is a snail 
called Hdix albolabris, about an inch and a quarter in diameter. 



82 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Between this and the smallest, of which the fuU grown shell does 
not exceed the size of a pin's head, there are many intermediate 
species. At least two species of naked snail are found among us, 
which might be mistaken, without examination, for the common 
kinds deprived of their shells, were this possible. The fresh water 
varieties are found in aU parts, and some of the bivalves possess 
great beauty. Of the bivalves, about fifteen species inhabit the 
Delaware and Susquehanna, and as many more the branches of 
the Ohio in the west. 

Sterelmintha. These worms differ from the Annelides in 
being of a soft homogeneous texture, and having a more simple 
organization. The genus Planana bears some resemblance to a 
small leech, and may be observed in springs, gliding along with a 
uniform motion. The body has but one opening, which is in the 
middle of the under surface : through this the food is taken, and 
when digested, a quantity of water is drawn in, and the whole re- 
jected together. If cut into several pieces, each portion will repro- 
duce its lost parts, the tail getting a new head, and the head, a tail, 
as we have observed in Planana gracilis. To this division belong 
the Entozoa, or those worms which are found in the internal 
parts of man, and animals generally. They are not always con- 
fined to the intestines, but are sometimes lodged in the muscles, 
lungs, kidneys, and even in the brain. 

Protozoa, We do not particularize any of the species of ani- 
malcules, (Infiisona,) because they are not popularly known, and 
a good microscope is required to examine them. The number 
described in Ehrenberg's great work is seven hundred and twenty- 
three species, observed in Europe, Asia, and Africa. A con- 
siderable number of our native species have been observed; but 
where so many are minute, a great proportion of them must for 
years elude the most persevering search. A foreign species, known 
on the eastern continent, the Motias termo, is a living globule one 
twenty-four thousandth part of an inch in diameter, — and a drop 
of Avater may afford room for five hundred millions of them, or 
as many as there are human inhabitants upon the earth. 

Zoophytes. The genus Hydra may be detected in fresh quiet 
waters. It is in the form of a small tube, closed at one end; and 
from the margin of the open extremity about six arms, like fila- 
ments, are spread to take their living food, the remains of which 
are afterwards ejected. They may be readily seen with the naked 
eye, and, like Planaria, they have the power to reproduce their 
parts when cut off. Their method of reproduction is curious. A 
bud appears upon the side of an adult individual, growing out 
like the branch of a tree; its cavity being continuous with, and 
supplied with nourishment from the parent stem ; the arms at 
length appear and take their own food, — the base closes, and 
several animals are united together as one ; finally, when nearly 
full grown, the young ones become detached and commence a 
separate existence. 

In making the following estimate of the number of species com- 
posing the Fauna Pennsylvanica, we have had to rely upon our 



ZOOLOGY. 



83 



own judgment, the existing materials being very scanty. Indeed 
the zoology and botany of the Commonwealth must remain in a 
state of comparative obscurity, until they shall be thought worthy 
of being investigated under the authority of legislative enactment. 
The legislatures of Massachusetts and New York made appropria- 
tions towards the natural history of those States when they orga- 
nized their geological surveys, and had the same been done in 
Pennsylvania, under the direction of a competent and skilful 
naturalist, much of the obscurity which now exists in relation to 
our animals and plants would have been removed. Future inves- 
tigation will perhaps prove some of our estimated numbers to be 
near the truth, although they are given only as an approximation^ 
and in round numbers. 



Species of Mammalia 
Birds 
Reptiles 
Fishes at least 
Insects 
Arachnida 
Crustacea 
Worms at least 
Mollusca 
Animalcules 



50 
240 

60 

150 

90001 

150 

50 

50 
100 
150 



500 Vertebrata. 



> 9500 Invertebrata. 



10,000 Species. 



What animals of the class mammalia are mentioned as feeding upon in- 
sects ? Which are chiefly found in the unsettled parts of the state ? What 
is said of the fox and the raccoon? What animals are next mentioned? 
What is said of the beaver and others of the order rodentia ? Which kinds 
of squirrel are most common ? What is next mentioned ? What is said 
of the deer, elk and moose ? What birds of prey are noticed ? What is 
said of the whipperwill and night-hawk ? How many kinds of swallows ? 
What other birds are mentioned as common ? What scansorial birds have 
we ? What can you tell of the turkey, partridge and pheasant ? What 
water birds are found in this State ? What species of tortoise and terrapin 
have we ? Which oi our snakes are poisonous ? What other kinds are 
mentioned ? What lizards ? How many kinds of frogs ? What is said 
of the salamander tribe ? What sea fishes enter our eastern rivers ? Men- 
tion the fishes belonging to the lakes. Which are found in the waters of 
the Ohio ? What streams do the trout prefer? What kinds of fishes are 
noticed in the Delaware and Susquehanna? Which kind of insects is first 
mentioned ? Describe some of them. What insects belong to the order 
orthoptera ? What is said about locusts ? What insects are next mentioned 
as being injurious to apple trees ? How many species of the butterfly 
family is it supposed we have ? What is said concerning the numbers of 
species of insects ? Tell what is mentioned about the crustacean animals. 
What are annelides ? What is said of the mollusca ? — Of the sterelmintha ? 
What curious property belongs to the genus planaria? What is said of 
the infusoria, or microscopic animalcules, and of the size of some of them ? 
Describe the genus hydra, of the zoophytes, and the manner in which it is 
reproduced. What is the number of species of each class of animals, sup- 
posed to exist in the State ? 



84 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

9. Population. 

The people of Pennsylvania, deriving their origin from different 
sources and continually receiving fresh accessions from immigra- 
tion, present a mass of population having various distinctive shades 
of character; but a community of interest, daily intercourse, and 
the influence of education are constantly wearing away their dif- 
ference of habits, language and other pecuUarities, and assimilat- 
ing them more and more to one another. 

A few descendants of the Swedes and Dutch who dwelt on the 
shores of the Delaware before the arrival of the mild and benevo- 
lent Penn, are still found, near the same spot; and the ancient 
Swedish church of Wicacoa stiU stands as a place of worship near 
the navy yard in the lower part of Philadelphia, 

The English followers of Penn settled in the south-eastern coun- 
ties, where we still recognise their descendants in the Pembertons, 
Morrises, Hollingsworths, Wains and Richardsons of Philadelphia ; 
the Puseys, NeAvlins, DarUngtons, Pyles and Mendenhalls of Ches- 
ter; and the Watsons, Kirkbrides, Yardleys, Swifts and Paxsons 
of Bucks. 

The emigrants from Wales, a small but active and industrious 
band, located themselves near the Schuylkill in Montgomery and 
Chester, where many an Evans, Griffith, Jones, Morgan, Jenkins, 
Owen and Lloyd yet tills the fields trod by his ancestral fathers. 
There are also many Welsh, of more recent arrival, in Cambria 
and Schuylkill counties. 

The palatine Germans, who came over in great numbers about 
the year 1727, spread over Lancaster, Berks and Northampton, 
wisely choosing some of the best land in the State, where they soon 
made themselves comfortable, and next grew quietly rich. The 
early records of the names of these worthy and industrious stran- 
gers, as naturalized by the provincial council, show among them 
the ancestors of many of our well known German families of the 
present day. We there find Schneider, Shultz, Wolf, Meyer, 
Ulrich, Fegeley, Reinhardt, Keller, Landis, ShaefFer, and many 
others whose descendants, flourishing by industry and economy, 
nave become numerous, and some of whom have fiUed the highest 
offices in our State. The German population of Pennsylvania, 
naturaUy increasing, and augmented by continual accessions from 
the " Fatherland," has since spread over a large portion of the 
State, still inheriting the economy and prudent foresight of their 
ancestors, and generally establishing themselves on the most fer- 
tile soils. 

Ireland has also contributed largely towards the peopling of 
Pennsylvania ; but not keeping so much together as the Germans, 
the Irish have become more blended with the general mass. Many 
of the early settlers from that country established themselves in 
the southern part of Lancaster county, also in York and Cumber- 
land. As their numbers increased by continual arrivals from the 
mother country, they spread westward across the mountains. 
Here they cleared and settled some of the fairest portions of our 



POPULATION. 85 

western counties, several of which are mostly peopled by immigrants 
from Ireland and Scotland, or their descendants. They are a fru- 
gal and industrious people, public-spirited and patriotic; and under 
their care western Pennsylvania has become prosperous and dis- 
tinguished for its productions in agriculture and manufactures. 

Most of the northern counties have derived a considerable share 
of their population from New England, particularly Luzerne^ Sus- 
quehanna and Bradford. Some of the first settlements here were 
made by people from Connecticut, under the authority of that pro- 
vince, Avhich then claimed a large part of Pennsylvania as being 
within her hmits, which were m those days asserted to extend from 
the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. And though Connecticut has 
long since moderated her claims, and contracted the boundaries of 
her actual jurisdiction to reasonable Hmits, yet her enterprising and 
restless sons, with their neighbours of Massachusetts and the other 
New England states, still push their settlements from the Atlantic 
towards the Pacific. Many a neat dwelling has been reared in the 
wilderness by this thrifty and careful people ; many a smiling vil- 
lage has been built, and many a mill and manufactory set in ope- 
ration, which but for them would never have existed. The school- 
house and the place of worship are always found among them; 
their early lessons of piety and morality are still remembered in 
their new homes, and among the deep forests or in the lonely valley, 
the voice of prayer and the song of praise ascend to Heaven from 
the dwelling of many an emigrant from New England. 

We have also in Pennsylvania many French, and some Spanish 
and Italian families : these not being generally addicted to agricul- 
tural pursuits are found chiefly in the cities and larger towns. 
Some of the Huguenots or French Protestants who had fled from 
religious persecution in France, seeking a land where they might 
enjoy unmolested the right of worship according to their own faith, 
came to Pennsylvania soon after its first settlement. Many other 
French people have arrived from time to time, both from France 
and the West Indies. On the revolt of the blacks in St. Domingo 
or Hayti, in 1792, great numbers of the French inhabitants of that 
island, to escape death, fled to the United States, of whom many 
settled in Philadelphia. 

The following statement of the population of Pennsylvania, at 
different periods since the first departure of William Penn for 
England in 1684, will show its progressive increase since that time. 

Year. Population. Increase* 

1684 7,000 

1701 . 20,000 13,000 in 17 years. 

1763 280,000 260,000 in 62 years. 

1790 434,373 154,373 in 27 years. 

1800 602,545 168,172 in 10 years. 

1810 810,091 207,546 " " 

1820 ^ 1,049,313 239,222 " " 

1830 1,347,672 298,359 '' " 

1840 1,724,033 376,361 " " 



86 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



An abstract from the census returns of Pennsylvania for 1840 
gives the following results concerning the different classes of the 
population of this State. 

Males, 844,770 

Females, 831,345 



White persons. 



Free coloured persons. 



Males, 
Females, 



22,752 
25,102 



1,676,115 



Deaf and dumb persons 

BUnd . . 

Insane and idiots . . . 

Revolutionary and military pensioners . 

Persons employed in mining 

" '' in agriculture 

*^ ^'^ in commerce 

" '^' in manufactures and trades . 

*' ^' in navigating the ocean . 

'' '^ in navigating canals, lakes and rivers 

" '' in learned professions . 

Students in universities and colleges 

" in academies 
Scholars in common schools .... 
White persons over 20 years of age unable to read and 
write ..... 



47,854 

832 

636 

2,143 

1,251 

4,603 

207,473 

15,338 

105,883 

1,815 

3,951 

6,706 

2,034 

15,970 

179,989 



33,940 



What is said of the difference of origin and of character in our population ? 
Where are the descendants of the first Swedish and Dutch settlers still to 
be found ? In what part of the State did the English followers of Penn 
settle ? The Welsh people ? The Germans ? What is said of the Ger- 
man population of Pennsylvania ? Where did the early settlers from Ireland 
chiefly establish themselves ? What is said of their descendants in the 
western counties ? In what part of the State have we many New England 
people ? From what other countries has a portion of our population been 
derived ? What was the total population of the State in 1840 ? How much 
had it increased in the last ten years? {Other questions may he asked re- 
specting the number of the different classes of population.) 



10. Religion and Morals. 

The religious and moral character of Pennsylvania seems to 
have received an impression from the principles of order, justice, 
benevolence and toleration which were professed and practised by 
the wise and liberal Penn, and his sober and orderly companions. 
One of the first laWs enacted in the colony provided that " none 
acknowledging one God, and living peaceably in society, should be 
molested for his opinions or his practice ; nor be compelled to fre- 
quent or maintain any ministry whatever." Here breathes that 
spirit of tolerance and religious freedom, which has always distin- 
guished Pennsylvania, and which it is hoped may never be in- 



RELIGION AND MORALS. 87 

fringed. All men are here free to worship God according to the 
faith of their fathers, or the dictates of their own conscience ; and 
no preference is given by our constitution and laws, or by pubHc 
opinion, to any religious sect or denomination. The liberal sen- 
timents and wise regulations of Penn concerning civil and reli- 
gious hberty were soon duly appreciated, and the infant colony 
became an asylum for the oppressed, — a neutral ground upon which 
all denominations might dwell together in peace. This gave rise 
to the early estabhshment and the rapid increase of multiplied 
congregations belonging to various religious societies. 

The immediate companions and followers of Penn were mostly 
of the society of Friends, commonly called Q,uakers, who have 
since spread into several parts of the State, but are most numerous 
in Philadelphia and the south-eastern counties. Many of the 
early English settlers were Episcopalians, who now have respecta- 
ble congregations in most of the counties. The Swedes, who 
were in the province before the arrival of Penn, were Lutherans, 
and these were soon greatly augmented by the arrival of Germans 
of that persuasion. The Presbyterians soon became numerous by 
arrivals from the north of Ireland and from Scotland ; and were 
increased by the addition of the German and Dutch Calvinists. 
They are now said to be the most numerous denomination in the 
State. The Baptists had a small church in Bucks county as early 
as 1684, and have since greatly increased in Pennsylvania. The 
first Roman Catholic chapel was erected in Philadelphia about 
the year 1733, and the number of those professing this faith has 
been continually augmenting by immigrants from Ireland, Ger- 
many, France and other countries. 

The Moravians, or United Brethren, established themselves in 
1741 at Bethlehem, Nazareth, Litiz and other places, where their 
descendants still remain, and are distinguished for their industry, 
morality, and orderly conduct. The Methodists are numerous in 
Pennsylvania, and have congregations in almost every part of the 
State. Beside the sects already mentioned, the increase of popu- 
lation from the influx of immigrants from various countries has 
introduced many others, and Universalists, Unitarians, Menno- 
nists, Swedenborgians, Jews and several other religious denomi- 
nations are found among us. 

But notwithstanding this diversity of rehgious belief in our 
community, it is pleasing to observe the almost universal harmony 
which exists between the different sects in relation to their pubUc 
and private intercourse with each other. The spirit of Christian 
charity and benevolence seems to have general influence; and 
the establishment of many of our public charitable institutions has 
been effected, and their usefulness still continued, by the united 
zeal of benevolent and public-spirited individuals and clergymen 
of most of our various religious denominations. All seem to be 
united in the cause of religion, morality and education; and though 
unprofitable public discussions or disputes upon religious subjects 
have sometimes occurred, yet the general harmony seems to have 
been but Little disturbed by them; and the bitterness of sectarian 



SB GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

feelings has yielded to the mild influence of Christian charity and 
the spirit of universal toleration. 

Within the last few years the moral character of Pennsylvania, 
in common with that of other States, has undergone a most happy 
change, from the progress of that mighty reform which seems to 
be spreading its influence over the civilized world. The use of 
spirituous liquors had long been discouraged in this State by the 
Society of Friends; but their care on this subject was exercised 
chiefly among their own members. The recent impulse given to 
the cause of Temperance by the united and powerful efl'orts of the 
wise and good of all religious persuasions, has been productive of 
the most happy and cheering effects. The attention of the people 
has been aroused, they have been taught to think upon the subject; 
hundreds of the debased and miserable victims of intemperance 
have been reclaimed from their degraded position and restored to 
society as useful and respectable men. Many of those Avho sold 
them the intoxicating and destroyino- draught have relinquished 
the trade, because they became convmced of the injury they were 
inflicting upon the wretched creatures who demanded it at their 
hands, and who to obtain it freely ofl'ered their last coin which 
might have procured food for a heart-broken wife and starving 
children. The scenes of drunken riot and disgusting debauchery 
which a few years ago were but too common, have now become 
comparatively rare. The moral sense of the community is awak- 
ened, — they are beginning to reflect upon and understand the sub- 
ject in its proper light, — and though a few poor deluded victims 
may still be found so weak as to offer themselves as a willing sa- 
crifice to the destroying demon of the bottle, their number is rapidly 
diminishing before the wide-spread influence of that moral reform 
which has awakened all classes of society to a knowledge that 
their best interests and their true happiness are dependent upon 
strict habits of temperance and sobriety. 

Mention a provision of one of the first laws of Pennsylvania concerning 
religion. What is said of freedom of conscience and religious liberty 
being the privilege of all our citizens ? Of what religious society were the 
companions arid followers of Penn ? What is said of the Episcopahans ?— 
Of the Presbyterians ?— Of the Baptists? — Of the Roman Cathohcs? — 
Of the Moravians ? — Of the Methodists ? What other denominations are 
mentioned? What is said of the feeling of the different persuasions to- 
wards one another ? What has recently had great effect in reforming the 
moral character of our population ? What good effects have resulted from 
the progress of temperance ? 



11. Education. 



The subject of education appears to have received early atten- 
tion in Pennsylvania, and has since been recommended and en- 
courao-ed on the part of the delegated authorities of the State by 
continual and successive constitutional provisions and legislative 



EDUCATION. 89^ 

enactments. If the benefits of learning have not been so generally 
diffused among the inhabitants of this State as among those of 
New England, the defect should not be altogether ascribed to a 
want of due consideration of the value of education ; but probably 
in some measure to the heterogeneous character of our population, 
composed of emigrants from various foreign countries, entertain- 
ing their own peculiar views and prejudices, and who, even yet, 
are not perfectly amalgamated into one great body politic, enter- 
taining the same manners, customs and language. 

As early as 1683, before the first settlers of Philadelphia had 
protected themselves from the weather by the erection of comfort- 
able dwellings, we find by the ancient records that "the Governor 
and Provincial Council, having taken into their serious considera- 
tion the great necessity there is of a school master for the instruc- 
tion and sober education of youth in the town of Philadelphia, sent 
for Enoch Flower, an inhabitant of said town, who for twenty 
years past hath been exercised in that care and employment in 
England, to whom having communicated their minds, he em- 
braced it upon these following terms: to learn to read English, 
four shillings by the quarter; to learn to read and write, six shil- 
lings by the quarter ; to learn to read, write and cast accounts, 
eight shillings by the quarter; for boarding a scholar, that is to 
say, diet, washing, lodging and schooling, ten pounds for one 
whole year." 

In 1689, the Friends' public school was established, and received 
a few years afterwards, from the benevolent founder of Pennsyl- 
vania, a charter by the motto of which he shows his appreciation 
of the blessings of education. " Good instruction is better than 
riches," was the simple truth by which he expressed his enlightened 
views in relation to this important subject. This institution is still 
continued, and under the direction of the Society of Friends dis- 
penses instruction to numerous pupils. As the population of the 
province increased, the necessity for education was generally re- 
cognised, and public and private schools were established. The 
'^ Academy and Charitable School in the province of Pennsylva- 
nia" was founded in 1750, chiefly by the exertions of Dr. Frank- 
lin, and chartered in 1753. In 1755 a new charter was granted 
by which it was erected into a college with the power to appoint 
professors and confer degrees in the various arts and sciences, and 
in 1779 it was created a university. A classical school of some 
celebrity was estabhshed in Bucks county as early as 1728, by the 
Rev. William Tennent, and one at New London, in Chester coun- 
ty, in 1741, by the Rev. Francis Allison, who afterwards became 
the provost of the college in Philadelphia. 

The important subject of general education was not overlooked 
by the wise and provident foresight of the early fathers of our re- 
public; for the first constitution of the State, framed in 1776 by a 
convention of which Dr. Franklin was president, provided for the 
estabhshment by the legislature of one or more schools in each 
county, and of one or more universities for the youth of the State 
generally. The consthution of 1790, assuming still broader ground 

8* 



90 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

in favour of general education, declares that," the legislature shall, 
as soon as conveniently may he, provide hy law for the establish- 
ment of schools throughout the State in such manner that the poor 
may be taught gratis,^^ and further, that " the arts and sciences 
shall be promoted in one or more seminaries of learning." This 
provision has been found so fully sufficient as a basis for legisla- 
tion that it is continued without change in the revised constitution 
of 1838. It established public instruction as part of the business 
duties of the authorities of the Commonwealth, leaving to public 
opinion to guide generally the mode in which that business shall 
be carried on, but absolutely guarantying instruction at the public 
expense to those who are unable to procure it for themselves. 

Under this provision was passed the act of 1809, to provide for 
the education of the poor gratis ; and at different times various 
plans have been tried which have at length resulted in the system 
at present in operation. Any system upon Avhich the children of 
the poor are to be separated in their education from others, is op- 
posed to the principles of our republican institutions, and has 
never found favour for any considerable length of time with the 
people at large. Plans of this sort have accordingly been laid 
aside very soon after they have been tried. Our republic depends 
for its very existence upon the virtue and intelhgence of the peo- 
ple, and the free and full education of all its youth is the only 
mode by which that intelhgence can be secured. 

In 1831, the legislature passed a law for the establishment of a 
general system of education, and providing for the creation of a 
fund in aid of, or for the support of schools. In 1834 an act was 
passed which forms the basis of the present law, and in 1836 the 
law now in force, entitled " an act to consolidate and amend the 
several acts relative to a general system of education by com- 
mon schools," which contemplates nothing less than the elemen- 
tary instruction of all the youth of the commonwealth. 

By the present law each township, borough or ward in the com- 
monwealth, not within the city and incorporated districts of the 
county of Philadelphia, constitutes a school district, except that 
any borough which is or may be connected with a township in the 
assessment of its county rates and levies, forms a district with 
such township. In each district is a board of school directors, two 
of whom are chosen annually by the people, holding the office for 
a term of three years. In those districts where the provisions of 
the law have been accepted, the directors fix the amount of tax to 
be levied for school purposes, and superintend the pecuniary as 
well as the educational concerns of the schools. They are. re- 
quired to establish a sufficient number of schools for the instruc- 
tion of all persons over four years of age for whom application 
may be made, and to keep these schools open for at least six 
months in the year, if they have the requisite funds for that pur- 
pose. The tax to be levied is in no case to be less than the ap- 
propriation from the State treasury received by the district, nor 
greater than three times that amount. The sum annually appro- 
priated by the legislature for distribution among the districts was 



EDUCATION. 91 

at first $200,000; which in 1838 was increased to one dollar for 
every taxable inhabitant; and the amount actually paid to the ac- 
cepting districts in 1842, was upwards of $238,000. Besides the 
annual appropriation in aid of common schools, the legislature has 
at different times made additional grants for the same excellent ob- 
ject, and in 1837, on the occasion of receiving into the treasury a 
proportion of the surplus revenue of the United States, distributed 
the sum of $500,000 for the erection, repairs and purchase of school 
houses, and for the purpose of schools generally. 

In the districts which have not joined the school union by ac- 
cepting the law, directors are nevertheless elected, who are re- 
quired to execute the provisions of previous laws in regard to the 
education of the poor; and the question of opening public schools 
is annually brought before the people of the district at the time of 
the election of school directors. 

The pubhc schools of the city and county of Philadelphia were 
not embraced in the organization and government of school dis- 
tricts established by the act of 1836, having been, by an act passed 
in 1818, erected into a district for the purpose of common school 
education, and denominated the first school district of the State of 
Pennsylvania. Under this act, and its several supplements, a sys- 
tem of common school instruction has been pursued in this dis- 
trict since the period of its passage. Its progress for some years 
was slow; but it has gradually secured public confidence and sup- 
port, and the public schools of Philadelphia are now regarded as 
being equal, if not superior in practical utility, to those of any city 
in the Union. The pupils are first received into primary schools 
where they are taught the elements of intellectual improvement; 
they are next removed into the grammar schools where they are 
instructed in all the essential branches of a plain English educa- 
tion; and finally those whose dihgence in study and capacity for 
learning may have enabled them to pass the requisite examination 
are transferred to the High school, where a more extended course 
of instruction is open to them, including the Latin, French and 
Spanish languages ; belles-lettres ; moral, mental and political 
science; mathematics and practical astronomy; natural philoso- 
phy ; natural history ; chemistry, drawing and writing, &c. 

The organization of the school district composed of the city and 
county of Philadelphia is well adapted to a dense population, com- 
bining the advantages of a minute superintendence of the schools 
with those of a general system and central authority. The district 
is composed of school sections, in each of which directors are 
chosen by the people or appointed by the corporate authorities. 
Each board of directors sends one or more delegates to a central 
body called the Controllers of the Public Schools. The directors 
superintend the schools in their several sections, and disburse the 
moneys appropriated to them by the board of controllers. The 
amount of money required for the expenses of the schools is de- 
termined by the controllers, who make a requisition for it upon 
the commissioners of the county. The general regulations for the 
schools of the district are made by the board of controllers, who. 



92 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

holding the purse, have an effectual check upon the action of the 
sectional boards. Every year the president of the board of con- 
trollers makes a report upon the general condition and progress, 
and the prospect of the schools in the district, which being pub- 
lished give to the citizens the general results of a system in which 
they are all so deeply interested. It is perhaps not too much to 
say that up to the present time these reports have been character- 
ized by that plainness and directness which marks an account of 
a sound and well-ordered system. Similar advantages to those 
derived from a union of several school sections in Philadelphia, 
are found to result from a similar organization in the city of Lan- 
caster, and must follow from it wherever adopted. What is good 
in reference to education for one part of a community must be 
equally so for another, under circumstances so nearly the same as 
the different parts of a town or borough. 

The pubhc school system has been steadily gaining ground since 
its first introduction into Pennsylvania. In 1836 there were 987 
school districts in the State, of which 745, or about three-fourths, 
had accepted the terms of the school-law. Though the question 
of withdrawing from the school union is submitted every three 
years to the people of the accepting districts, four-fifths of the 
districts in the State, or 905 out of 1,113, had accepted the terms 
of the law in 1842. The hope is confidently indulged by the 
friends of public education, that in a few years the whole State 
will be unanimous in its feeling towards the system and in its 
universal adoption. 

With the progress of the system the importance of education has 
been more generally felt and more extensively acknowledged. In 
1836 there were 3,384 public schools in the State, exclusive of 
the city and county of Philadelphia, attended by 139,604 scholars; 
and in 1842, 6,116 schools attended by 281,085 scholars; the num- 
ber of public schools having nearly doubled and the number of 
scholars more than doubled in six years. The sums raised by taxes 
in the accepting districts give evidence of the same fact: in 1836 
the whole amount was $231,552, and in 1842, $398,766, and this 
increase took place notwithstanding the pecuniary difficulties and 
general depression which prevailed. The whole sum expended 
for common schools in the accepting districts of the State, exclu- 
sive of the city and county of Philadelphia, in 1842, was $648,831 ; 
in the city and county $237,764, and in the whole State where 
the system is introduced $886,595. 

The sums expended for the erection of school houses in the ac- 
cepting districts from 1836 to 1842, both inclusive, amount to 
more than a million of dollars. More care has been taken in the 
location and construction of the buildings, more attention paid to 
the convenience of their internal arrangement and to the neatness 
of external appearance; and though in many cases improvement 
is still to be desired in these particulars, there are districts in which 
the school houses are models for imitation. The necessity for so 
large an expenditure to provide places for instruction has doubtless 
been a great impediment to the progress of the system ; but being 



EDUCATION. 93 

once overcome in a district, no similar difficulty can recur for a 
long series of years. 

The attention of the directors of the public schools to their duties^ 
and the interest which they have manifested in the progress of the 
schools, have also gone on increasing. In 1836, reports were re- 
ceived by the superintendent of common schools from less than 
two-thirds of the districts, and in 1842 from more than eleven- 
twelfths. The whole number of schools in the reporting districts., 
not including the city and county of Philadelphia, is 6,1 16, and the 
average time during which they are kept open for instruction is 
five months and nine days. The number of male teachers is 5,176, 
at an average salary of $18.58 per month; and of female teachers 
2,316, at $11.16 per month. The number of male scholars is 
154,454, and of females 126,631. The number learning the Ger- 
man language is 5,141. The average number of scholars in each 
school is 44; and the cost of tuition for each scholar is 42J cents 
per month, or $1.27^ per quarter. The amount of State ap- 
propriation paid last year to accepting districts was $238,162, and 
the reported amount of tax levied in them was $398,766. The 
amount paid for instruction in the reporting districts for that year 
was $425,501 ; for fuel and contingencies $41,044; and for school 
houses $113,339. 

The large aggregate expense of the schools has sometimes led to 
a question in reference to their economy. In considering this 
question we should take into view all the benefits conferred by the 
public school system; for economy consists in the judicious use of 
means so as to derive the greatest amount of return from the 
smallest expenditure. The great increase in the number of com- 
mon schools since the adoption of the system, the improvement in 
their character, the more general diffusion of the benefits of educa- 
tion among the people, and the consequent elevation of the stand- 
ard of moral and intellectual refinement and intelligence, should 
aU be taken into the account. And if we treat the question merely 
as one of dollars and cents, we shall find that the average cost of 
instruction under the old system very considerably exceeded $1.27^ 
per quarter for each scholar, which is the average expense under 
the present common school system. The people are quick to dis- 
cover the effect of measures bearing directly upon their interest, and 
had they perceived no advantages resulting from the adoption of 
the common school system, it would never have been em.braced by 
four-fifths of the districts in the commonwealth. If the old system 
was sufficient for the demands of education, why has a million of 
dollars been expended within the last six years in the erection of 
school houses by directors acquainted with the wants of the people 
and the necessity for more extended opportunities and facilities for 
instruction 1 It is not because we have abandoned a better for a 
worse system that the number of schools and of scholars in the ac- 
cepting districts has so greatly increased, and that the advantages 
of education have been so much more widely extended; but be- 
cause we have been guided by the universal truth, that the stand- 
ard of common education is always highest, and its benefits most 



94 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

extensively felt^ in those communities where it is sustained by 
common and united means. 

In reviewing the progress of the common school system in Penn- 
sylvania^ the friends of education find abundant cause for satisfac- 
tion and congratulation. It was not to be expected, in a commu- 
nity differing in language, habits, and customs to which they had 
been long attached, that a total change could be immediately 
effected in the system of instruction, and that they could be at once 
brought to regard as a public duty the provision for education 
which they had so long been accustomed to consider as merely a 
matter of private consideration. Early and deeply seated preju- 
dices were to be removed ; local customs and habits of long stand- 
ing were to be changed ; the opposition of the wealthy and parsi- 
monious was to be encountered ; and a thousand other obstacles 
to be met, before a system could be brought into general favour 
which should dispense its blessings equally to the rich and to the 
poor, and make education, Uke the air we breathe, as free to the 
cottage as to the palace. 

The difficulty of obtaining properly qualified teachers for the 
common schools in many parts of the State is now the principal 
drawback upon the effectual operation of our school system. The 
profession of a school-master, notwithstanding his usefulness in 
society and the benefits which they receive from the faithful per- 
formance of his duty, has not heretofore been considered among 
the most honourable. In addition to this, the inadequacy of the 
compensation generally paid to teachers may be regarded as one 
of the principal reasons why the standard of instruction in so many 
of our common schools is not as elevated as it should be. The 
business of teaching is embraced by many as a merely temporary 
employment, and by no means as a regular profession for life. 
Nor does it follow that because a teacher possesses all the leaiiiing 
necessary for the school in which he is employed, he also under- 
stands or practises the best method of imparting knowledge to his 
pupils. It is not usually the most learned men who make the best 
teachers, unless they happen to possess the rare faculty of com- 
municating instruction with facility, and in addition to their other 
knowledge understand also the art of teaching. A want of the proper 
kind of teachers must still be felt in our common schools until the pro- 
fession shall be raised to its proper standard, and by a compensation 
and a standing in society equal to those enjoyed by the clergyman, 
the physician, or the lawyer, young men of talents, intelligence and 
high moral character shall be induced to qualify themselves for its 
duties and to embark in it as a permanent employment. 

By a law passed in 1838, an appropriation to colleges, acade- 
mies and female seminaries was made of the following amount 
annually for ten years. To each incorporated university and col- 
lege, maintaining at least four professors, and constantly instructing 
not less than one hundred students, one thousand dollars. To each 
incorporated academy and female seminary, maintaining one or 
more teachers, and giving instruction to at least fifteen pupils in 
the Greek and Roman classics, mathematics and English, or Eng- 



EDUCATION. 95 

lish and German literature, three hundred dollars. To each .of 
said academies and female seminaries where at least twenty-five 
pupils are instructed as above, four hundred dollars; and to each 
one maintaining at least two teachers and instructing forty or more 
pupils as above, five hundred dollars. 

In pursuance of this law, $7,378 were paid from the State 
treasury in 1842, to nine universities and colleges, viz. the Univer- 
sity of Pennsylvania at Philadelphia, Lafayette college at Easton, 
Dickinson college at Carlisle, Pennsylvania college at Gettysburg, 
Marshall college at Mercersburg, Madison college at Unionlown, 
Washington college at Washington, Jefferson college at Canons- 
burg, and Allegheny college at Meadville. From six of these in- 
stitutions reports were received in comphance with a resolution of 
the legislature passed in 1836, which requires the president, fa- 
culty, trustees, &c., of colleges and academies receiving aid from 
the commonwealth, to report to the superintendent of common 
schools, on or before the first of November annually, the number 
of students and graduates, the course of studies pursued, financial 
resources and expenses, the future prospects of their institutions, 
&c. In the six colleges which reported in 1842, there are 381 
students in the collegiate, and 373 in the preparatory departments. 
The number preparing to become school teachers is 37 and the 
number of graduates 62. The medium price of tuition for each stu- 
dent is $22.33, and the annual expense including board is $120.66. 
From the University of Pennsylvania, and from Dickinson and Jef- 
ferson colleges, no reports were received. 

The number of academies which receive a share of the State 
appropriations is 65, and the amount paid to them from the public 
treasury in 1842 was $16,001, Only 39 of these academies made 
the annual report required by law. Those which reported have 
2,108 pupils, of whom 360 are preparing to become school teach- 
ers. The medium cost of tuition for each pupil is $15.31, and 
the whole annual expense of each is $107.55. 

The female seminaries entitled to a portion of the public funds 
are 41 in number, and received $13,044, But 18 of these have 
made their annual report, from which it appears that the medium 
cost of tuition is $18.53 per annum, and the whole annual expense 
of a pupil, $132.20, 

The total amount paid from the State treasury in 1842, to col- 
leges, academies and female seminaries, was $36,421. 

In addition to the pubhc schools established by law, and those 
maintained on the old system in the non-accepting districts, there 
are in the cities of Philadelphia, Lancaster and Pittsburg, as well 
as in many of the country towns, a number of excellent private 
schools supported by those who patronise this mode of education 
in preference to sending their children to the public schools. But 
as the character of the public schools becomes more elevated, and 
the course of instruction in them is becoming every year more 
thorough and comprehensive, we find the number of private 
schools to be gradually decreasing. The time is apparently not 
far distant, when the standard of education in our public schools 



96 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

generally will be such as to cause them to be sought by all classes 
of society, on account of their superior excellence and the enlarged 
facilities which they afford to youth for the acquisition of a solid 
and practically useful education. 

What is said of the early attention paid to education in Pennsylvania ? 
Why is learning not so generally diffused in this State as in New England ? 
In what year was the first school established in Philadelphia ? When was 
the Friends' public school established ? In what year was the academy 
founded and by whose exertions ? When was it erected into a college, and 
when created a university ? When and where were two classical schools 
early established ? What provisions concerning education were contained 
in the first State constitution of 1776 ? What in that of 1790 ? What was 
provided by the law of 1809, and why was this plan not successful ? What 
law concerning education was passed in 1831 ? When was the present 
school law passed, and what is its object ? What constitutes a school dis- 
trict ? How are the directors elected, and what are their duties ? What 
amount of school tax may be levied ? How much is annually appropriated 
by the State ? What is said of the non-accepting districts? What is said 
of the organization of public schools in the city and county of Philadelphia? 
Into what schools are pupils first received there ? Into which are they next 
removed, and what are they taught there? Who are admitted into the 
High school, and in what are they there instructed ? How are the directors 
of the sectional schools chosen ? How is the board of controllers constitut- 
ed ? What are the duties of the directors ? Of the controllers ? In what 
other city is there a similar organization ? What was the number of school 
districts in the State in 1836, and how many had accepted the law ? And 
in 1842 ? What number of schools and of scholars in 1836, exclusive of 
those in Philadelphia ? What number in 1842 ? What was the amount of 
school tax raised in each of those years ? How much was expended for 
public schools in the accepting districts ? And in the whole State ? What 
amount has been expended for school houses from 1836 to 1842, and what 
is said of improved care in regard to them ? What proportion of the dis- 
tricts reported in 1836, and what in 1342 ? How many schools are reported 
besides those in Philadelphia, and how long are they kept open for instruc- 
tion ? What is the number of teachers, and their average compensation ? 
The number of scholars, and the average cost of tuition for each ? Men- 
tion the amount of the State appropriation, and of the school tax. How 
much is paid for the various purposes of education in the reporting districts ? 
What is said of the economy of the present school system ? What causes 
have had a tendency to retard the progress of the common school system 
in this State ? W hat is the principal drawback upon the operation of the 
system at present ? What reasons are assigned for the difficulty of obtain- 
ing a sufficient number of good teachers ? What is the amount appropri- 
ated by law to each college, academy and female seminary? How many 
colleges are there in the State, and where situated ? What is the number 
of academies ? Of female seminaries ? What amount was paid from the 
State treasury in 1842 to these institutions ? What is said of private schools ? 



12. Crime, and its punishment. 

The illustrious founder of Pennsylvania, with that mildness, 
wisdom and justice for which his character was so conspicuous, 
m his early laws for the government of the colony, greatly amelio- 
rated and modified the severer features which distinguished the 



CRIME, AND ITS PUNISHMENT. 97 

criminal code of the mother country. He seems to have been 
aware that the certainty rather than the severity of punishment is 
most effectual in preventing crime, and that the great object of 
laws should be prevention rather than sanguinary punishment. 
The murderer only was condemned to suffer death ; such crimes 
as robbery, burglary, forgery and many others, for which thousands 
have been executed in England without diminishing the frequency 
of the offence, were made punishable at hard labour for a time 
proportionate to the enormity of the crime, and by fines, forfeitures, 
&c. After the death of William Penn, an act was passed under 
the administration of Governor Keith, by which the criminal laws 
of England were in substance extended to the province, and 
remained in force until the period of the revolution, at which 
time no less than fourteen species of oflfences were punishable by 
death. 

After the revolution the reform of the criminal law became an 
early subject of attention, and was enjoined by the constitution of 
1776. Since that time there seems to have been a constant effort 
on the part of the legislature not only to graduate the punishment 
to the offence, but to devise a system by which the moral reform 
of convicts might be effected. The reproach apphed to the old 
system, of which it has been said that the lawgivers found it less 
trouble to hang the criminal than to reform him, is not applicable 
to the criminal jurisprudence of Pennsylvania. 

The enactment of just and lenient penal laws, and the establish- 
ment of a humane and effective system of prison discipline, have 
been subjects of anxious and unremitting attention with many of 
our wise, benevolent and pubhc spirited citizens. The " Society 
for alleviating the miseries of public prisons" should long be held 
in grateful remembrance for their labours in this cause. The per- 
nicious consequences of crowding the convicts together, which al- 
lowed unrestrained intercourse between the hardened offender and 
the juvenile dehnquent, and by which the prison was made rather 
a school of vice than a place for moral instruction and reform, 
were early seen and earnestly represented. The legislature was 
repeatedly memorialized on the subject, and the erection of peni- 
tentiaries in suitable parts of the State for the more effectual em- 
ployment and separation of the convicts was strongly urged. 

In 1790, solitary cells were erected in the Walnut-street prison 
at Philadelphia, in which the law directed that the more hardened 
and atrocious offenders should be confined, and also that ordinary 
convicts should be kept apart, unless their employment did not 
admit of separation, in which case the keeper or his deputy must 
be present. By a law of 1794, prisoners for most offences were 
directed to serve some part of their sentence in solitary confine- 
ment, which in some instances mentioned in the law, might be ex- 
tended to months or years. But with the scanty and confined 
accommodations of the then existing prison, it was soon found 
impracticable to carry these regulations into full effect; and it was 
finally determined to erect State penitentiaries on a plan adapted 
to solitary confinement, and of an extent sufficient to accommo- 

9 



98 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

date the increased number of prisoners consequent upon the grow- 
ing population of the State. 

The Penitentiary at Pittsburg was completed for the reception 
of convicts in 1827, and that at Philadelphia in 1829. They are 
somewhat similar in plan and design, both having separate cells 
for the confinement of^each prisoner, carefully constructed with a 
view to prevent all intercourse or communication between the per- 
sons confined. The whole interior arrangement in these establish- 
ments is admirably devised for carrrying into effect the two great 
leading principles in the system of Pennsylvania prison discipline: 
first, the recognition of moral reform as a principal aim of peni- 
tentiary punishment; and second, the complete separation of the 
prisoners, as the only mode by which this end can be obtained. 

Convicts from the western district, which is composed of the 
counties of Fayette, Greene, Washington, Allegheny, Westmore 
land, Somerset, Bedford, Huntingdon, Clearfield, M'Kean, Potter, 
Jefferson, Cambria, Indiana, Armstrong, Butler, Beaver, Mercer, 
Crawford, Venango, Clarion, Erie and Warren, are sent for con- 
finement to the Western Penitentiary at Pittsburg. The remain- 
der of the State constitutes the eastern district, from which crimi- 
nals are sent to the. Eastern Penitentiary at Philadelphia. 

Each of these penitentiaries is managed by a board of inspectors 
appointed by the judges of the Supreme Court of the State. The 
inspectors have the general control and direction of the prisons, 
the appointment of the officers and agents employed about them, 
and they must visit the prison at least twice a week to see that all 
duties are faithfully performed. They must attend to the religious 
instruction of the convicts, and procure suitable persons to act as 
moral and religious instructers : they are also enjoined to visit the 
prisoners and ascertain whether any abuses exist in their treatment. 
A report must annually be made by them to the legislature, of the 
condition of the prisons, the number of convicts, their age, term 
of imprisonment, &c., with such observations on the efficiency of 
the system of solitary confinement as may be the result of their' 
experience, together with such information as they may deem ex- 
pedient for making these institutions effectual in the punishment 
and reformation of offenders. 

Every criminal sentenced to imprisonment in the penitentiary 
must be immediately conveyed thither by the sheriff of the county 
in which he Avas convicted. On his arrival he is examined by the 
physician, bathed, cleaned, and dressed in the uniform of the pri- 
son. He is then examined by the clerk and warden, and note 
taken of his person, name, age, complexion and such other pecu- 
liarities as may serve to identify him; his clothing and such effects 
as he may have about him are preserved to be returned to him on 
his discharge. He is then conveyed to the cell assigned to him, 
which is marked with a particular number by which he is known, 
instead of by name, during his confinement. 

The convicts are not permitted to receive any thing but the pri- 
son allowance ; tobacco, wine, spirituous or fermented liquors are 
strictly forbidden, unless ordered by the physician. No person is 



CRIME, AND ITS PUNISHMENT. 99 

allowed to visit the prison without a written permission according 
to the rules of the inspectors, except certain official visiters, and 
none but official visiters can have any communication with the 
convicts. 

On the discharge of a prisoner, his clothing and such effects as 
he may have had about him at the time of his reception are re- 
stored to him; and if the inspectors and warden have been satisfied 
with the morality, industry, and order of his conduct, they give 
him a certificate to that effect, and furnish him with four dollars 
in money, in order that he may have some means of support until 
he can obtain employment, and not be immediately tempted to com- 
mit crime from the necessity of his situation. 

By the reformed penal laws of Pennsylvania, (act of 23d April, 
1829,) punishment by soHtary confinement at hard labour is to 
be inflicted for the following offences, with some others therein 
named : — 

Murder in the second degree; for the first offence not less than 
four nor more than twelve years; for the second offence during 
hfe. 

Manslaughter; for the first offence not less than two nor more 
than six years; for the second, not less than six nor more than 
twelve years. 

High treason ; first offence not less than three nor more than 
six years; for the second, not exceeding ten years. 

Arson ; maliciously burning buildings, stacks of hay, grain, &c., 
first offence not less than one nor more than ten years ; for the se- 
cond, not exceeding fifteen years. 

Burglary ; for the first offence not less than two nor more than 
ten years ; for the second, not exceeding fifteen years. 

Forgery, counterfeiting coin, bank-notes, checks, &c. or coun- 
terfeiting the hand or seal of another person with intent to defraud ; 
first offence not less than one nor more than seven years ; for the 
second, not exceeding ten years. 

Robbery ; for the first offence not less than one nor more than 
seven years ; for the second not exceeding twelve years. 

Kidnapping; for the first offence not less than five nor more 
than twelve years ; for the second twenty-one years. 

Horse stealing; for the first offence not less than one nor more 
than four years; for the second, not exceeding seven years. 

Perjury, or subornation of perjury; for the first offence not less 
than one nor more than five years ; for the second, not exceeding 
eight years. 

Persons sentenced by the county courts to confinement for lar- 
ceny and other offences, for a period of one year or more, are sent 
to the state penitentiaries, except in the counties of Philadelphia, 
Chester, Dauphin, and Allegheny, where those sentenced for less 
than two years are to be confined in the county prisons. 

In the county prison of Philadelphia, the principle of separate 
confinement, the treatment of prisoners, and the general regula- 
tions are similar to those of the penitentiaries. In Chester, Dau- 
phin, and Allegheny, prisons have lately been erected on the plan of 



100 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

separate apartments for each prisoner, the advantages of solitary 
confinement being now generally recognized in Pennsylvania. 

It is clearly proved, by prison statistics generally, that intem- 
perance is the fruitful source of crime as well as of other great 
evils which afflict society; and it is also evident that the want of 
education and of proper moral culture in youth tends to produce 
that debased state of mental degradation which leads men to com- 
mit offences, by diminishing their sense of moral responsibility. 
But the time has now arrived when we may reasonably hope for 
improvement in this respect. The progress of temperance, by re- 
forming the habits of society, will diminish the frequency of crime : 
our system of public education will also have its effect in pro- 
ducing a reform, and in bringing about a better and happier condi- 
tion of public morals by promoting the growth of republican virtues. 

What is said of the criminal laws enacted in the time of William Penn ? 
What change in them took place after his death ? Since the revolution 
what has been done on this subject ? When, and where was solitary con- 
finement partially introduced ? What was directed by the law of 1794, and 
why could it not be carried into full effect ? When, and where were peniten- 
tiaries erected ? What is said of them, and of their interior arrangement ? 
What part of the State belongs to the western, and what to the eastern dis- 
trict ? How are the penitentiaries managed? What are the duties of the 
inspectors ? What is done with the prisoners on their arrival ? What is 
said of the treatment of convicts, and of the admittance of visiters ? — Of the 
discharge of prisoners ? How long is the period of imprisonment by law for 
the several offences named ? What is said of some county prisons ? Men- 
tion the principal causes which lead to the increase of crime. What grounds 
have we to hope for improvement in this respect ? 



13. Pauperism, and the poor laws. 

Among a population so generally characterized by habits of in- 
dustry and economy as that of Pennsylvania, cases of absolute 
pauperism are of comparatively rare occurrence. But few are de- 
pendent upon public charity for their support, except those who 
are disabled by age or bodily infirmity from acquiring a livelihood 
by the efforts of their own industry; or those whose idle and 
vicious habits of indulgence in dissipation and intemperance have 
brought them to a state of destitution and misery. The swarms ol 
vagrants and beggars who infest the streets and roads in many 
parts of Europe are happily unknown among us, and the few soli- 
tary mendicants whom we sometimes see strolling about are gene- 
rally foreigners who prefer this method of gaining subsistence to 
that of honest employment. 

The happy influence of our free institutions in causing a fair 
remuneration to be paid as the wages of labour ; the abundance 
and cheapness of our agricultural productions for food; the thou- 
sands of acres of uncultivated land within the commonwealth ; and 
the profitable labour exercised in improving the sofl now culti- 
vated, by which its product is greatly increased — aU combine to ren- 



PAUPERISM— POOR LAWS. 101 

der employment easy to be obtained and fairly rewarded. To this 
may be added the extending variety and enormous increase of our 
manufactures; the developement of our mineral resources; the 
multiplication of buildings and works of improvement; and the 
numerous other growing demands for labour within our own bor- 
ders ; by all which we shall perceive that there need be no idle 
hands among us, and consequently no poor but the few whom 
misfortune, indolence or vice prevents from reaping the sure re- 
ward of industry. Our situation in this respect is widely different 
from that of those countries in Europe which are overburdened 
with a redundant population, where the productions of the soil and 
the reward of labour are insufficient for the support of the people, 
and where indigence, misery, and crime must be the necessary 
consequence of want of employment. 

The spirit of our laws on the subject of pauperism is humane 
and charitable. Overseers or guardians of the poor are chosen in 
the several townships and districts throughout the State, whose 
duty it is to provide for the employment of such poor persons be- 
longing to the district as are able to work, but cannot find employ- 
ment, and to provide the necessary means of subsistence for those 
who, by reason of age, disease or infirmity, are unable to labour for 
their own support. These officers, with the approbation and con- 
sent of two magistrates of the county, may put out as apprentices, 
until of lawful age, those poor children whose parents are unable 
to maintain them. It is also their duty to furnish temporary relief, 
if applied for by such poor persons within the district as may not 
have a settlement therein, until they can be removed to the place 
where they legally belong. 

In many of the counties, houses for the relief and employment 
of the poor have been erected at the public expense, most of which 
are large and well constructed edifices, so arranged as to combine 
comfort, convenience, and economy, where the sick, the aged, and 
the infirm find a quiet and comfortable retreat. A farm is usually 
attached to each county poor house, the lighter labour of which is 
performed by such of the paupers as are not disabled by age or 
infirmity ; and workshops are provided for those whose previous 
occupations or personal inability for out-door labour, render it ex- 
pedient to employ in mechanical or manufacturing pursuits. The 
women are occupied in spinning, sewing, and various household 
duties. The paupers thus assist in the management of the farm 
which yields them support ; they make and repair farming uten- 
sils and articles of domestic use; they spin, weave and make up 
most of their own clothing; and thus, if the estabhshment be well 
managed, materially diminish the burden of their support which 
falls upon the tax payers of the county. 

Our poor taxes appear very trifling when compared with those 
paid in England, and the general condition of our paupers is much 
more comfortable. The poor rates in that countiy are said to 
amount to about =£8,000,000, or nearly $40,000,000. It is esti- 
mated that of their population of 11,000,000, about 1,200,000 re- 
ceive assistance as paupers, though this aid is by no means shared 

9» 



102 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

by all who are miserably poor. Some accounts make the poor of 
England amount to one third of the whole population. 

Beside the assistance afforded to our poor by means of the pau- 
per system established by law, we have numerous charitable asso- 
ciations and benevolent societies, who do much towards alleviat- 
ing the condition of the poor within their respective spheres of 
action. These, in our cities and large towns, are eminently useful, 
and afford rehef to many who are reluctant to apply to the official 
guardians of the poor, or who, having once been placed in better 
circumstances, would sooner suffer the miseries of destitution than 
ask support from the public charity. The benevolent spirit of our 
community is so generally exercised that few cases of absolute 
suffering from want occur, except perhaps some in the severe cold 
of winter, and these are generally relieved as soon as they be- 
come known. 

What class of people are dependent upon public charity for support ? 
Give some reasons why we have but few paupers in Pennsylvania. Why 
are some countries in Europe so different from ours in this respect ? Men- 
tion some of the provisions of our laws in reference to providing for the poor. 
What is said of county poor houses ? How are the paupers employed ? 
What is said of our poor taxes in comparison with those of England ? By 
what other means are our poor relieved ? 



14. Government and legislation. 

The Constitution of Pennsylvania, adopted in 1790 and amended 
in 1838, provides for a form of government consisting of three 
branches. Legislative, Executive, and Judiciary, to which is en- 
trusted the power of enacting, executing, and administering the 
laws of the State. 

The Legislative power is vested in the General Assembly, 
which consists of a Senate and a House of Representatives. 

The present number of Senators is thirty -three, who are chosen 
by districts, and elected for three years, one third of the whole 
number being elected every year. A senator must be not less 
than twenty-five years of age, a citizen and inhabitant of the State 
four years next before his election, the last year of which he must 
have resided in the district for which he is elected. 

The House of Representatives consists of one hundred members, 
who are elected annually. A representative must have attained 
twenty-one years of age, and must have been a citizen and inha- 
bitant of the State three years next preceding his election, the last 
year of which he must have resided in the district for which he is 
chosen. 

The General Assembly meets on the first Tuesday of January 
in every year, unless sooner convened by the Governor. Each 
House chooses its Speaker and other officers; judges of the quali- 
fications of its own members, and determines contested elections. 
A majority of each House constitutes a quorum to do business; 



GOVERNMENT AND LEGISLATION. 103 

but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day. Each House 
may determine the rules of its proceedings, punish its members 
for disorderly behaviour, and with the concurrence of two thirds 
may expel a member. Neither House can, without the consent 
of the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other 
place than that in which the two Houses shall be sitting. All 
bills for raising revenue must originate in the House of Represen- 
tatives; but the Senate may propose amendments. Every bill 
which shall have passed both Houses must be presented to the 
Governor for his signature : if he approve, he must sign it; if not, 
he must return it, with his objections, to the House in which it 
originated. If both Houses then agree to pass it by a vote of two 
thirds of each House, the bill becomes a law without the assent 
of the Governor. Any bill which is not returned by the Governor, 
within ten days after it is presented to him, becomes a law, in like 
manner as if he had signed it, unless the General Assembly pre- 
vent its return by adjourning; in which case it becomes a law un- 
less sent back within three days after their next meeting. 

No corporate body with banking or discounting privileges can 
be created, renewed, or extended, without having given six months' 
previous public notice of their intended application for the same: 
no charter for such purposes can be granted for a longer period 
than twenty years; and the Legislature reserve the right to revoke, 
alter, or annul the same if found injurious to the citizens of the 
commonwealth. No divorce can be granted by the Legislature 
in cases where the courts have such power by law. 

The Executive power is vested in a Governor, who holds his 
office for three years from the third Tuesday of January next en- 
suing his election ; but who cannot hold it for longer than six, in 
any term of nine years. The Governor must be at least thirty 
years of age, and a citizen and inhabitant of the State seven vears 
next before his election. He is commander-in-chief of the military 
force of the commonwealth, except when they are called into the 
actual service of the United States. He has power to remit fines 
and forfeitures, and to grant reprieves and pardons, except in cases 
of impeachment. He appoints a Secretary of the commonwealth, 
and nominates to the Senate, for confirmation, the Judges of the 
Courts. He has power to convene the General Assembly upon 
extraordinary occasions; and it is his duty to take care that the 
laws be faithfully executed. In case of the death, resignation, or 
removal of the Governor, the Speaker of the Senate exercises the 
duties of the office until another Governor shall be elected. 

'' In elections by the citizens, every white freeman of the age 
of twenty-one years, having resided in this State one year, and in 
the election district where he offers to vote, ten days immediately 
preceding such election, and within two years paid a State or 
county tax, which shall have been assessed at least ten days before 
the election, shall enjoy the rights of an elector; but a citizen of 
the United States, who had previously been a qualified voter of 
this State, and removed therefrom and returned, and who shall 
have resided in the election district, and paid taxes as aforesaid. 



104 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

shall be entitled to vote after residing in the State six months : — 
Provided, That white freemen, citizens of the United States, be- 
tween the ages of twenty-one and twenty-two years, and having 
resided in the State one year, and in the election district ten days 
as aforesaid, shall be entitled to vote, although they shall not have 
paid taxes." 

The Judiciary power is vested in a supreme court, in courts of 
oyer and terminer, and general jail delivery, courts of common 
pleas, orphans' and registers' courts, a court of quarter sessions 
for each county, and in justices of the peace. The judges of the 
several courts are nominated by the Governor, and with the con 
sent of the Senate are appointed and commissioned by him. The 
judges of the supreme court hold their offices for fifteen years; the 
president judges of the courts of common pleas and other courts 
of record, and all other judges required to be learned in the law, 
are appointed for ten years; and the associate judges of the courts 
of common pleas, for five years. But for any reasonable cause, 
which shall not be sufficient ground of impeachment, the Governor 
may remove any of them on the address of two-thirds of each 
branch of the Legislature. 

Sheriffs and Coroners of the several counties are elected by the 
people, for three years ; but no person can be twice elected sheriff 
in any term of six years. Prothonotaries of the supreme court are 
appointed by the court : prothonotaries and clerks of the other 
courts, recorders of deeds, and registers of wills are elected by the 
people and commissioned by the Governor, for three years. 

Justices of the peace and aldermen are elected by the qualified 
voters in the several wards, boroughs and townships, and are com- 
missioned by the Governor for a term of five years. 

No person can be appointed to office in any county who has not 
been a citizen and inhabitant therein, for one year next before his 
appointment. No member of Congress from this State, or any 
person holding an office of trust or profit under the United States, 
can hold any office in this State to which a salary or emoluments 
are annexed by law. No member of the Senate or House of Re- 
presentatives can be appointed by the Governor to any office during 
the term for which he is elected. All officers for a term of years 
hold their offices only on the condition of good behaviour, and 
may be removed on conviction of misbehaviour in office or of any 
infamous crime. Any person who shall fight a duel, or send a 
challenge for that purpose, or be aider or abettor in fighting a 
duel, is deprived of the right of holding any office of honour or 
profit in this State, and may be otherwise punished according to 
law. 

In the Declaration of Rights attached to the Constitution of Penn- 
sylvania, it is declared among other things : That all men are born 
equally free and independent, that all power is inherent in the 
people, and all free governments founded on their authority : That 
all men have a right to worship God according to the dictates of 
their own consciences ; — that no man can of right be compelled to 
erect or support any place of worship or maintain any ministry 



GOVERNMENT AND LEGISLATION. 105 

against his consent, and that no preference shall ever be given by- 
law to any religious establishment or mode of worship. The free- 
dom of elections, of the printing press, and the right of trial by 
jury are affirmed. It is declared that the people shall be secure in 
their persons, houses, papers, and possessions, from unreasonable 
searches and seizures: that in all criminal prosecutions the ac- 
cused has a right to be heard, and that he cannot be compelled to 
give evidence against himself, or be deprived of hfe, hberty, or 
property, unless by the judgment of his peers or the law of the 
land. No person can be twice put in jeopardy of hfe or limb for 
the same offence; nor can any man's property be taken for pubhc 
use without the consent of his representatives and without just com- 
pensation being made. Excessive bail shall not be required, exces- 
sive fines imposed, nor cruel punishments inflicted. Imprisonment 
for debt is not to continue after dehvering up the estate for the bene- 
fit of the creditors, unless there is strong presumption of fraud. No 
ex post facto law, or law impairing the obligation of contracts can 
be made. It is declared that the citizens have a right to assemble 
in a peaceable manner, and to apply for redress of grievances by 
petition, address or remonstrance: that the right of the citizens to 
bear arms in defence of themselves and the State shall not be ques- 
tioned: — That no standing army shall in time of peace be kept up 
without consent of the Legislature, — and that the military shall at 
all times be in strict subordination to the civil power. 

Amendments to the Constitution of the State may be proposed 
in the Legislature, and if agreed to by a majority of both Houses, 
are to be entered on their journals ; the Secretary of the common- 
wealth is then to cause the amendments to be pubhshed three 
months before the next election, in at least one newspaper in every 
county ; and if the next Legislature shall agree to the amendments, 
they are again to be published in the same manner; after this, if 
the people shall ratify and approve such amendments by a major- 
ity of the qualified voters of the State voting thereon, such amend- 
ments shall become a part of the Constitution ; but no amendment 
or amendments shall be submitted to the people oftener than once 
in five years. 

Of what three branches does our government consist ? How is the legis- 
lative power vested ? What is the number of senators, and how elected ? 
Mention the qualifications of a senator. How many members are in the 
house of representaiives, and how elected ? What are the qualifications of 
a representative ? When does the legislature meet ? What are the powers 
exercised by each house ? What is done with bills after having passed both 
houses ? What if the governor should not approve them ? What is said 
of corporate charters and divorces ? How is the executive power vested ? 
For how long is the governor elected ? What are the qualifications for go- 
vernor ? What powers has he ? In what manner is a vacancy in the office 
supplied ? Who are entitled to vote at elections ? In what courts is the 
judiciary power vested ? How are the judges appointed, and how long do 
they hold their offices? In what manner, and for how long, are sheriffs, 
coroners, profhonotaries, clerks, registers, &c., chosen? — Justices of the 
peace and aldermen? What persons are disqualified from holding office 
under the State constitution ? What provisions of the declaration of rights 
can you mention ? How may amendments to the constitution be made ? 



106 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



15. Defence. 

The defence of the State is entrusted to the militia of the com- 
monweahh; the constitution declaring that "no standing army- 
shall in time of peace be kept up without the consent of the legis- 
lature; and the military shall in all cases, and at all times, be in 
strict subordination to the civil power," 

Unhke the governments of Europe, where the support of stand- 
ing armies is a heavy burden upon the people, our free institutions 
and the republican simplicity of our government require the main- 
tenance of no armed force for their support. A government ema- 
nating directly from the people, and subject to their will, can have 
no employment for a military force except to repel foreign aggres- 
sion or to quell domestic violence. As a member of the Union, 
Pennsylvania has a right to protection by the federal government 
against a foreign enemy; and instances of domestic turbulence are 
so rare and so little formidable among us, as to be generally soon 
quieted by the civil power. In a moral and intelligent community, 
the principle and the practice of self-government supersedes the 
necessity of employing force; and a great saving of expense to 
the people is the natural consequence of order and obedience to 
the laws. 

Our State constitution provides that " the freemen of this com- 
monwealth shall be armed, organized, and disciplined for its de- 
fence, when and in such manner as may be directed by law: — 
Those who conscientiously scruple fo bear arms shall not be com- 
pelled to do so, but shall pay an equivalent for personal service." 

By the existing laws of the State, every free able-bodied white 
male person, who has resided within the commonwealth for one 
month, and is between the ages of eighteen and forty-five, is to be 
enrolled in the militia. Those exempted from militia duty are the 
vice president, judicial and executive officers of the United States, 
members of congress, custom house officers, persons employed in 
carrying the mail, postmasters, inspectors of exports, pilots, and 
mariners employed in the sea-service, ministers of religion, teach- 
ers, members of the board of health, directors and controllers of the 
pubhc schools in the first school district, judges of the courts, 
mayors and recorders of cities, servants of foreign ambassadors and 
consuls, sheriffs, gaolers and keepers of work houses. 

The militia of the commonwealth is therefore enrolled and or- 
ganized into divisions, brigades, regiments, and companies, elect- 
ing their own officers, and meeting at stated times for parade and 
exercise in military duty. Our militia system is, however, so con- 
fessedly defective and so little popular, as to have fallen into a state 
of neglect and even of contempt in some parts of the State. Those 
who feel an interest in military affairs, and are desirous to improve 
themselves in martial knowledge and practice, mostly decline to 
appear in the ranks of the militia, and have formed themselves 
into volunteer companies, which are handsomely uniformed, 
armed, and equipped, and frequently parade for exercise and im- 



FINANCES, REVENUE AND TAXATION. 107 

provement in military tactics and discipline. They present^ in 
general, a soldier-like appearance, are well drilled in the manual 
exercise, and a martial spirit is kept up among them which, in the 
event of their being called into service, would render them a much 
more effective force than the undisciplined and irregular body of 
the militia. 

The militia force of Pennsylvania consists of 17 divisions, con- 
taining 35 brigades, 148 regiments, 1,312 companies, and 201,666 
men. The volunteer companies are 564 in number, containing 
33,458 men, of which 4,772 are cavalry, 3,829 artillery, 11,994 
infantry, and 12,863 riflemen: thus making the total effective 
force of the State 235,124. 

The expense of the militia system to the State in 1842 was 
$33,164.94. Of the large amount of militia and exempt fines paid 
for non-performance of military duty, only $13.30 reached the 
State treasury in that year ! 

Arsenals for the preservation of ordnance, arms and military 
stores belonging to the State have been erected at Philadelphia, 
Harrisburg, and Meadville. There are also several belonging to 
the United States. 

The fortifications within the limits of Pennsylvania are Fort 
Mifflin on the Delaware, and the works for the defence of the har- 
bour at Erie, which are supported by the general government. 
The naval defence of the commonwealth is also entrusted to the 
government of the United States. 

To whom is entrusted the defence of the State ? Why is no standing 
army required in this, as in the governments of Europe ? What is said of the 
advantages of self-government ? What are the requirements of the State 
constitution in reference to the militia ? Who are to be enrolled by law ? 
What persons are exempt from military duty ? How is the militia organ- 
ized ? What is said of the militia system ? Of volunteer companies ? 
Mention the number of militia and of volunteers. What is the total military 
force of the State ? What is the annual cost to the State for militia ex- 
penses ? What amount of fines is paid into the treasury ? Where are 
State arsenals erected? What is said of fortifications, and of naval de- 
fence ? 



16. Finances, revenue and taxation. 

The financial affairs of Pennsylvania are at the present time in 
a, state of considerable embarrassment and difficulty. The practice 
of borrowing money on the credit of the State, in order to prosecute 
our extended system of public improvements, has been so long 
persisted in, without any adequate provision having been made 
for the redemption of the loans or the payment of the interest ac- 
cruing upon them, that our State debt has reached the enormous 
amount of more than forty millions of dollars. 



108 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The revenue arising from the tolls on the State canals and rail 
roads has not been found sufficient to meet the annual expenditures 
on them; much less to aid in paying the interest on the cost of 
their construction. In order to meet the deficiency, money has 
again been borrowed to pay the interest due on former loans ; and 
thus the State debt has gone on increasing from year to year, while 
the work on new and unfinished lines of canal has still been car- 
ried on by a further extension of Stale credit. 

But though Pennsylvania is thus involved in debt by the con- 
struction of her rail roads and canals, it should be remembered in 
the consideration of this subject, that these public works have 
added far more to the intrinsic value of the State than their actual 
cost. The increased facilities and the reduced prices of transporta- 
tion and travel; the great rise in the value of land in many parts 
of the State, from the creation of a market for produce, or the easy 
and cheap means of conveyance to a market ; the reduced cost and 
more abundant supply of merchandise in the interior of the State; 
the developement of our mineral wealth and the ready transporta- 
tion to places of consumption of our inexhaustible supplies of coal 
and iron; all these, and many other advantages to the citizens of 
Pennsylvania have accrued from the construction of her public 
improvements. Thus while the people have been reaping the ad- 
vantage, the State has become embarrassed with debt; and the 
only means which now remains to extricate the treasury from its 
difficulties, is for the people to contribute a portion of that which 
they have gained from the use of the public works, towards paying 
their cost and sustaining the credit of the State. 

The value of the real estate in Pennsylvania has been estimated at 
$1,300,000,000, and the personal property at 700,000,000 ; making 
the total value of property in the commonwealth amount to 
$2,000,000,000. A tax of one mill to the dollar, or ten cents to 
the hundred dollars, if fairly assessed upon the whole of this 
amount, would yield 2,000,000 per annum; or a tax of two per 
cent, would pay the 40,000,000 of State debt at once. 

The annual productions of the State, agricultural, manufactur- 
ing, and mineral, are worth about $200,000,000, one per cent, on 
which would pay the interest on the State debt. It will thus be 
seen that j^^ of the property in the State, or one per cent, of the 
annual productive industry of the people, will pay the interest on 
our debt ; while the payment of two per cent, of the value of pro • 
perty within the commonwealth would at once free us from the 
State debt. Viewing the subject in its true light, it will be there- 
fore apparent that Pennsylvania, instead of being bankrupt, is 
abundantly able to meet all her liabilities; and that her creditors 
have in her inexhaustible resources and the industry and integrity 
of her people a sure guaranty of the public faith. 

The revenue of the State is drawn from various sources, the 
principal of which, with the amount derived from each, will be 
seen by the following abstract from the Auditor General's report 
of receipts and expenditures for 1842. 



FINANCES, REVENUE AND TAXATION. 



109 



Receipts. 

Lands and land office fees 

Auction commissions and duties 

Dividends on stocks owned by the State 

Tax on bank dividends and corporations 

Tax on writs, offices, and salaries 

Tax on collateral inheritances 

Tax on real and personal estate . 

Tavern licenses 

Retailers' licenses . 

Brokers' and pedlers' licenses 

Canal and rail road toUs . 

Loans . . . , 

Militia and exempt fines . , 

Sundry other sources 

Miscellaneous 



Expenditures. 

Commissioners of internal improvement fund 

Expenses of government . 

Rail road and canal companies and turnpikes 

Militia expenses .... 

Pensions and gratuities 

Education . 

Loans . . . • 

Interest on loans 

Penitentiaries and House of Refuge 

Damages on canals and rail roads . 

Delaware division of canal 

Domestic creditors . 

Premiums on silk 

Seat of government and State library 

Sundry other expenses . 

Miscellaneous 



$21,846 85 

77,287 38 

35,778 79 

82,008 79 

45,483 41 

38,717 44 

486,635 85 

50,275 59 

84,178 57 

7,349 45 

907,093 12 

934,764 83 

13 30 

4,751 16 

4,423 87 

$2,780,608 40 



$1,987,353 29 

329,337 61 

31,705 86 

33,164 94 

44,151 66 

315,372 43 

221,394 33 

44,767 79 

28,021 00 

32,992 10 

27,747 85 

209,589 43 

6,716 77 

4,697 76 

11,823 30 

7,523 39 

$3,336,359 51 



The Judiciary system of Pennsylvania is the most expensive in 
the Union, costing the State for the maintenance of the several 
courts upwards of $106,000 per annum; while that of New York, 
larger and more populous than Pennsylvania, costs the State but 
$35,128. The legislative expenses in Pennsylvania are very great, 
and require extensive reform : the State printing alone amounts to 
about $60,000 a year ; that of New York, which is done in a style 
much superior to ours, costs $28,241. Our militia system is sup- 
ported at an annual expense to the State of more than $33,000; in 
New York this item of State expenditure is $18,171. These com- 
parisons are made for the purpose of showing that a more strict 

10 



ilO GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

economy in the expenses of government is required in Pennsylva- 
nia. In these times of financial embarrassment, a searching and 
thorough reform is required; and such items of State expenditures 
as are excessive or extravagant should be at once materially re- 
duced, or aboHshed as uselessly burdensome to the people. 

In what condition are the finances of Pennsylvania, and what is the 
amount of the State debt? To what causes is this to be attributed ? What 
advantages have resulted to the people from the construction of the public 
works ? By what means can the treasury be relieved from difficulty ? 
What is said of the value of property in the State, and the amount of taxa- 
tion necessary to pay the principal and interest of the State debt ? What 
is the estimated value of the annual productions of Pennsylvania, and the 
proportion requisite to pay the interest ? What may we conclude from this 
concerning the ability of the State to meet her obligations ? Mention the 
principal sources of State revenue. — The chief hems of expenditure. What 
is said of certain expenses, and of the necessity of reform ? 



17. Productions. 

In order to give a proper view of the immense resources of 
Pennsylvania, and to show the value and importance of her various 
productions, they will be considered under the following general 
divisions: 1. Of Agriculture: 2. Of the Manufactory : 3. Of the 
Mine : 4. Of the Forest. 

Our statements of the quantity and value of these productions 
are founded upon the returns of the marshals who took the census 
of 1840; the returns of the commissioners of the several counties 
to the secretary of the Commonwealth in 1839, and upon much 
valuable information derived from other sources. The census re- 
turns generally fall short of the real amount, owing, perhaps, not 
so much to a neglect of duty on the part of the officers employed, 
as to the unwillingness of the people in many parts of the State 
to give correct answers respecting the amount and value of their 
property and produce, from an apprehension that the inquiries 
were made with a view to the increase of taxation. 

1 . Productions of Agriculture. 

Pennsylvania has long been distinguished for excellence in this 
branch of domestic industry, and there is probably no State in the 
Union in which the business of farming is managed on a large 
scale with such decided success and advantage. Much of our soil 
is naturally fertile, and requires little aid, except the requisite 
culture, to cause the growth of abundant crops. In many portions 
of the State, less favoured by nature, the skill and industry of our 
farmers have been so successfully exerted upon poorer soils as to 
render them highly productive, and in many cases to convert bar- 
ren wastes into fruitful and luxuriant fields. A careful attention 
to the collection and use of proper manures, among which lime is 
beginning to be justly considered as one of the most important; 



PRODUCTIONS. lU 

the use of the best ploughs and other agricultural implements ; a 
judicious rotation of crops well planted and tended ; and a general 
regard to neatness and economy in all their operations, are the 
distinguishing characteristics of Pennsylvania agriculturists in the 
older settled parts of the State. 

The system of cropping varies in different districts ; the follow- 
ing is one of the most commoa in the eastern counties. A field 
which has been in pasture is ploughed up for Indian corn late in 
the fall, or more usually, early in the spring. The corn is planted 
m the beginning of May, and well dressed and tended through the 
early part of summer : about the last of October it is gathered, 
yielding from twenty-five to fifty bushels per acre, and on rich 
soils frequently more. About the first of the following April, the 
same field is again ploughed, and sown with oats, which is har- 
vested towards the end of July, producing from twenty-five to 
fifty bushels to the acre. The oats' stubble is then ploughed in, 
and the field, being well manured, is sown with wheat in the latter 
part of September. Rye is frequently sown instead of wheats 
where the soil is light and thin, or where it is not manured ; and 
many farmers sow both wheat and rye. In February or March, 
clover or other grass seeds are sown on the wheat and rye, which 
grow among the grain until harvest. The wheat and rye are 
generally fit to cut early in July, and commonly yield from fifteen 
to thirty bushels per acre. The field is by that time covered with 
young clover which is left until the following summer, when it is 
cut for hay in June, and a second crop gathered for seed in Sep- 
tember. The field may be mown again the following year, or 
pastured until it comes again in course for Indian corn. Some 
farmers prefer sowing their wheat on a field freshly broken up 
from the grass sod ; some omit the crop of oats between the corn 
and the wheat or rye ; others take off the Indian corn early and 
sow wheat or rye immediately after it. The mere order of suc- 
cession in the different crops is not very important, provided that 
the farmer is careful not to exhaust his land by too frequent repe- 
titions, or by neglecting to plough, manure and dress his fields in 
the best manner. 

Beside the grains already mentioned, buckwheat, flax, barley, 
potatoes, turnips, beets and many other articles are cultivated. 
Different modes of culture and tillage are practised in different 
parts of the State, according as the variety of soil, climate or 
situation renders it necessary or expedient. In the more elevated 
and colder districts the cultivation of Indian corn is not very suc- 
cessful; but grass, oats and potatoes thrive admirably. In those 
parts where the soil is better adapted to grazing than tillage, the 
rearing and fattening of cattle and sheep is extensively pursued. 
Near the cities and large towns, where the farms are generally 
smaller, fruit, vegetables, poultry, fresh butter and other articles 
for inimediate consumption are found profitable and occupy much 
attention. Scarcely a farm is to be found without its apple orchard 
of choice and selected varieties. Pears, peaches, plums, cherries 
and other fruit are abundant, and though some farmers have been 



iii GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

careful to obtain the finest kinds, there is not generally sufficient 
attention paid to selecting and grafting the best varieties of fruit. 

There is perhaps no class of men upon the earth more truly 
independent, or who have the means of happiness more imme- 
diately within their reach than the farmers of Pennsylvania. They 
are generally themselves the owners of the soil which they culti- 
vate ; surrounded by comfort and plenty they find their substance 
steadily increasing by industry and economy; and though they 
may not acquire wealth so rapidly as is sometimes done by those 
who follow mercantile occupations, yet they are secure from sud- 
den reverses of fortune, and free from the harassing anxieties and 
the feverish excitement of commercial speculation. 

The traveller in the older settled parts of Pennsylvania is par- 
ticularly struck whh the neat and substantial appearance of the 
buildings, fences, &,c., as well as the order and convenience of the 
whole domestic arrangement of a well regulated farm. The pride 
of a Pennsylvania farmer is his barn, many of which are from 60 
to 120 feet in length and substantially built, either AvhoUy of stone, 
or the loAver story of stone and the superstructure of wood, hand- 
somely painted or white-washed. The interior arrangement of 
stables, thrashing floor, granaries, places for depositing hay, &-c., 
is admirably convenient and useful. The horses, cattle and other 
domestic animals are comfortably sheltered during the winter, and 
like their master and his family, enjoy the plenty provided by 
good husbandry and provident industry. 

Within the last few years considerable attention has been given 
to improving the stock of domestic animals; a subject which had 
been too much neglected by our farmers. The horses of Penn- 
sylvania have generally been bred more with a view to draught 
than to swiftness, in accordance with the quiet pursuits of their 
owners, w^ho prefer the sure speed of the plough and the wagon 
to the exciting and hazardous sport of the race course. Oxen are 
frequently used for labour, particularly in the newly settled and 
rougher parts of the country ; and mules are becoming numerous, 
being preferred to horses for many kinds of employment, particu- 
larly at the coal mines and iron works. 

The breed of milch cattle has been recently much improved by 
the importation of many noble animals from England, and so 
manifest is the advantage that it will probably not be many years 
before the present inferior stock will have disappeared from every 
good farm in the State. The sheep have been also much im- 
proved by crossing with the Spanish and EngUsh breeds; and 
even the swine are now ennobled by alliances with European 
families of their kind. The increased attention bestowed upon the 
improvement of their stock by many of our most judicious and 
enterprising farmers wiU operate as an example to others; and it 
is to be hoped that many years Avill not have elapsed before a 
nobler race of domestic animals will supplant the present inferior 
breeds. 

The number and average value of each description of live stock 
in Pennsylvania is nearly as follows : 



PRODUCTIONS. 113 

Horses and Mules . 365,129 at $60.00 $21,907,740 

Neat Cattle . . 1,172,665 15.00 17,589,975 

Sheep . . . 1,767,620 2.50 4,419,050 

Swine . . . 1,503,964 3.50 5,263,874 

Poultry . . . estimated value . . . 685,801 

The following statement of the principal agricultural products 
of Pennsylvania annually is believed to be considerably below the 
real amount. 

Wheat 13,213,077 bushels. Hay 1,311,643 tons. 



Rye 6,613,873 

Indian corn 14,240,022 
Oats 20,641,819 

Buckwheat a, 113,742 
Barley 209,893 

Potatoes 9,535,663 



Flax and Hemp 2,650 
Hops 49,481 pounds. 

Wax 33,107 " 

Tobacco 325,018 " 

Silk cocoons 7,262 " 

Sugar 2,265,755 



Wool 3,048,564 pounds. Wine 14,328 gallons. 

Value of products of the dairy, $3,187,292. 

Value of products of orchards and gardens, $901,218. 

II. Productions of Mamifactures. 

The productions of the manufacturing industry of Pennsylvania 
are so various, and so little authentic statistical information has 
been collected respecting them, that we shall only be able to give 
a general and imperfect sketch of this division of our subject. The 
account of such branches of manufactures as were embraced in 
the late census appears in many cases to be imperfect, and manu- 
factured articles to a considerable amount, as well as home made 
family goods and other productions in the minor departments of 
domestic industry, are believed to be not fully contained in the re- 
turns of the marshals. 

Iron. — The production and manufacture of iron, the great staple 
of Pennsylvania, ranks first in importance ; the ore being the pro- 
duct of our own soil and wrought into value by the laborious in- 
dustry of our own people. Whatever of this material is manu- 
factured in the State is so much additional wealth gained ; and 
almost every department of manufacturing industry is in some 
measure dependent upon this indispensable article. Not a furrow 
can be turned by the ploughman without the aid of iron ; every 
house erected, every mechanical trade carried on, every canal or 
rail road constructed, every ship built, every implement of national 
defence used, must be by the employment of iron. The support of 
the people employed in this branch of manufactures, with their 
famiUes, and of the horses and mules used about the iron works, 
consumes a large amount of agricultural produce and affords a 
market for the farmers in their neighbaurhood, thus encouraging 
this branch of industry as well as many mechanical employments. 

The counties most noted for the production of iron are North- 
ampton, Lehigh, Berks, Lancaster, York, Cumberland, Franklin, 
Bedford, Huntingdon, Centre, Columbia, Armstrong, Venango, 
and Clarion. In several other counties considerable quantities of 
iron are produced from furnaces and forges, rolHng mills, nail 

to* 



114 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

works, foundries and other manufactories in which iron is the 
principal material are also numerous in many parts of the State. 

Pennsylvania has 213 furnaces for the manufacture of pig iron 
and castings, which according to the census returns of 1840, pro- 
duce annually about 100,000 tons. There are also 169 forges, 
bloomeries and rolling mills, manufacturing annually 87,244 tons 
of bar, rod, sheet and boiler iron and nail plates. The capital in- 
vested in our iron works is nearly $8,000,000, and the men em- 
ployed about 12,000, who with their families may be estimated at 
nearly 100,000 persons deriving subsistence from this branch of 
our manufactures. 

Flour, Grist, Saw, and Oil mills. — The number of flour mills in 
the State is 736, manufacturing 1,193,405 barrels of flour annually : 
grist mills 2,554; saw-mills 5,389; oil mills 166: the total value 
of these branches of manufactures is $9,424,955. They give em- 
ployment to about 8,000 men, and nearly $8,000,000 of capital. 

Cotton goods. — The number of cotton factories is 105, containing 
146,494 spindles; the estabhshments for dyeing and printing cot- 
tons are 40: value of manufactured articles, upwards of $5,000,000: 
persons employed 5,522 ; capital invested $3,325,400. 

Woollms. — Of woollen manufactories we have 235, together with 
346 fulUng mills, which produce annually woollen goods to the 
amount of $2,319,061, and aff'ord employment to about 3,000 per- 
sons. The amount of capital invested in this branch of manufac- 
tures is upwards of $1,500,000. 

Silk. — The quantity of reeled and other silk made in the State 
annually is about 2,350 pounds, valued at $14,644. 

Flax. — Though the manufactures of family goods from this 
article have much diminished since the general introduction of cot- 
ton fabrics, it yet seems evident that the valuation of $75,672 
given to them by the census returns is considerably below the real 
amount. 

Mixed goods. — The value of mixed manufactures is $1,098,810; 
persons employed about 4000 ; capital invested $287,859. 
Home made family goods. — Value $1,303,093. 
Leather. — The number of tanning establishments is 1,170, which 
produce annually 415,665 sides of sole, and 405,993 sides of upper 
leather; employing 3,445 men and $2,783,636 of capital invested. 
Of other manufactories of leather, saddleries, &c., there are 2,223, 
manufacturing articles amounting in value to $3,482,793 annually. 
Hats, caps, bonnets, i^-c. — This branch of industry employs 
1,470 persons, who produce hats and caps to the amount of 
$820,331 ; straw bonnets valued at $80,512; capital invested 
$449,407. 

Tobacco is manufactured to the value of $550,159, employing 
950 persons. 

Soap and Candles. — The quantity of soap made is 5,097,690 
pounds; of tallow candles 2,316,843 pounds; of spermaceti and 
wax candles about 5,000 pounds ; but a very large amount of soap 
and candles is made in famihes, which is not contained in this 
estimate. 



PRODUCTIONS. 115 

Distilled and fermented liquors. — Although the number of distil- 
. leries has much diminished within the last few years, we yet have 
1,010 remaining, which produce 6,240,193 gallons of spiritu- 
ous liquors annually. The number of breweries is 82, making 
12,765,974 gallons of fermented liquor. These branches of busi- 
ness employ 1,607 men, and a capital of $1,589,471. 

Drugs, medicines, paints, <^c. — The various manufactures of 
drugs, medicines, paints, and dyes, are valued at $2,1 00,074 j of 
turpentine and varnish at $7,865, employing 519 men, and requir- 
ing a capital of $2,179,625. 

Glass, earthenware, SfC. — For the manufacture of glass we have 
28 glass houses, and 15 estabUshments for cutting glass, which 
employ 835 men and produce articles to the value of $772,400. 
The number of potteries is 182, and the value of their productions 
is $157,902. 

Sugar, chocolate, confectionery, ^'C. — The number of sugar re- 
fineries is 20, and the value of their products $891,200; value of 
chocolate manufactured $14,000; of confectionery made $227,050. 

Paper. — Of paper manufactories there are 87, which produce 
this article to the amount of $792,335 : value of all other manu- 
factures of paper, cards, &c., $95,500. The amount of capital in- 
vested in this business is $581,800, and the men employed about 
800. 

Printing and hook-binding. — The number of printing offices is 
224, and of establishments for book-binding 46. Of the newspapers 
published in the State, 18 are daily, 165 weekly, 10 semi and tri- 
weekly ; and 42 periodical publications. Men employed 1,709; 
capital invested $681,740. 

Musical instruments are manufactured to the amount of $33,728. 

Carriages and wagons. — This branch of domestic industry em- 
ploys 2,783 men, who manufacture articles valued at $1,207,252. 

Ships and cordage. — The "value of ships and vessels built is esti- 
mated at $668,015: the number of rope walks is 39, in which 272 
men are employed, and the value produced is $274,120. 

Powder. — The number of powder mills is 30, and the quantity 
of gunpowder manufactured is 1,184,225 pounds. 

Machinery. — In this flourishing and rapidly increasing branch 
of manufactures, the annual value of the articles produced already 
amounts to about $2,000,000, employing 1,973 workmen. 

Hardware, cutlery, 8fc. — Value of articles manufactered $786,982; 
men employed 770. 

Cannon and small arms. — Number of cannon cast 5; number of 
small arms made 21,571. 

Precious metals. — The value of articles manufactured from the 
precious metals is estimated at $2,679,075 ; and from various other 
metals $1,260,170; workmen employed in these branches about 
900. 

Furniture. — Value manufactured $1,155,692; men employed 
2,373; capital invested $716,707. 

Salt. — Bushels produced 549,478 ; men employed 265; capital 
invested $191,435. 



116 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Bricks and lime. — The value of these articles produced is estimated 
at $1,733,590; but probably greatly exceeds that amount, as large 
quantities of lime are burned by the farmers of which no account 
was taken. Men employed 3,888. 

Stone, niarhle, Sfc. — Value manufactured $443,610; men em- 
ployed 536. 

Houses. — The number of brick and stone houses annually built 
is estimated at about 2,000; of wooden houses 2,428; men em- 
ployed in building 9,974; value of constructing $5,354,480. 

Other manufactures. — Of manufactures not enumerated in the 
foregoing list, the estimated value in the census returns is 
$3,204,403; capital invested $2,083,398. 

The total amount of capital invested in manufactures in Penn- 
sylvania is returned at $31,815,105. 

III. Productions of the Mine. 

In mineral wealth Pennsylvania stands pre-eminent and unri- 
valled among her sister States. The incalculable amount, the 
extensive variety and the superior quality of the coal, iron ore, and 
limestone found within our borders, constitute an inexhaustible 
source of wealth and prosperity to the people of this State ; form- 
ing, as they are developed and brought into productive usefulness, 
a sure basis and permanent supply for the employment of industry 
in the manufacturing, commercial and agricultural interests of the 
Commonwealth. 

It is, perhaps, fortunate for Pennsylvania, that no available 
mines of the precious metals have as yet been discovered in the 
State. If we are to judge from the past history and present condi- 
tion of those countries which have been most productive in gold 
and silver, we must conclude that the wealth produced by an 
abundant supply of these meials is by no means favourable to na- 
tional prosperity. The true source of national wealth consists in 
the active industry of the great mass of the people; not in the 
creation of enormous fortunes for a few individuals from their 
mines, by the mere labour of digging and refining. A pound of 
gold or silver, as produced from the ore, has nearly its maximum 
value with but little labour, and consequently yields employment 
to but a few persons; while a pound of iron, in its various changes 
from the ore through the furnace, bloomery, forge, rolling-mill, 
steel manufactory, and then into fine cutlery, watch springs, and 
the thousand other delicate and useful articles made from it, em- 
ploys hundreds of men, and is increased by their labour in value 
almost equal to its weight in gold. It thus furnishes innumerable 
workmen with employment, and yields food and clothing for 
themselves and their families; while the pound of gold or silver, 
after being dug by the miner and separated from the ore, passes 
into the coffers of the proprietor of the mine, and adds nothing 
more to the productive industry of the country. 

Spain and Portugal afford instructive examples of the eflfect of 
an abundant supply of the precious metals. The Mexican and 
South American possessions of these nations yielded them gold. 



PRODUCTIONS. 117 

silver and diamonds, which increased their wealth without a cor- 
responding increase of national industry. Luxury, extravagance, 
pride and idleness followed as the invariable consequences of 
sudden affluence. Enterprise languished, agriculture and manu- 
factures were neglected, their wealth was squandered in luxurious 
ostentation and idle show, while the mass of the people, on the 
decline of national energy, sank into idleness, apathy and poverty. 

As an example of the effect of an abundant supply of coal and 
iron in promoting national wealth and power, let us turn to Great 
Britain. Coal is the food and iron is the muscle of her vast manu- 
facturing industry. Her coal supplies the fires of thousands of 
steam-engines, which spin, weave, grind, hammer, blow, pump, 
lift, travel the railroads and navigate the rivers and seas ; it sup- 
plies also the necessary fuel for her countless furnaces, rolling- 
mills, forges, smitheries, and other operations in iron and steel, as 
well as the fires of her vast workshops in other branches of arts 
and manufactures. Her iron supplies not only the material for 
her own enormous consumption in rail roads, architecture, ma- 
chinery, ship building, agricultural implements, tools, cutlery, &c., 
but affords a surplus which in various stages of preparation or 
finished manufacture is exported to other countries. It will thus be 
seen that these two mineral productions of Great Britain afford, in 
all the industrial operations of manufactures and trade dependent 
upon them, employment and support for millions of her popula- 
tion; and how greatly the productive industry thus called into 
action by these two important staple productions haS added to the 
wealth, power and prosperity of this great nation. 

In order to produce a like effect from the coal and iron of Penn- 
sylvania, nothing is requisite but a proper encouragement of our 
own manufactures, the judicious employment of the needful capi- 
tal, and a perseverance in domestic industry. Several varieties of 
our iron ore are greatly superior in quality to much of that which 
is generally worked in Great Britain; our coal is fully as good as 
hers, and of inexhaustible extent. Our territory is nearly as large 
as that of England alone, and our capacities of agriculture and 
manufactures, with proper encouragement and attention, would 
not be found inferior. Pennsylvania has less than two millions of 
inhabitants, while England supports thirteen millions ; the extent 
and variety of her manufactures not only sustaining her redundant 
population, but at the same time affording a market for her agri- 
cultural productions. 

In the present infant state of the mining operations and coal 
trade of Pennsylvania, it is hardly possible to predict, or even to 
imagine what may be its future extent and importance. Coal is 
becoming the general fuel in our Atlantic cities, and many of the 
large towns and villages, not only for household use, but for steam 
engines, manufactories and various other purposes, and will finally 
become the common fuel for most operations in which artificial 
heat is required. 

Anthracite coal. The anthracite of Pennsylvania may be con- 
sidered as existing in three separate coal fields, having the same 



118 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

geological character, and being separated from each other by anti- 
clinal axes or lines of elevation which bring up between them the 
rocks below the coal. Some of these fields are in like manner 
divided into a series of minor basins, by a similar, though not so 
extensive an elevation of the lower rocks. The coal basins have 
been already described as long canoe-shaped troughs, containing 
the beds of coal interstratified with slates, shales and sandstones 
of various thickness, which generally dip in a direction towards 
the middle of the basins, and are found with almost every degree 
of inclination from nearly horizontal to perpendicular. 

The beds of coal vary in thickness from one to twenty or thirty 
feet; some have been found measuring fifty or sixty. They are 
exposed above the water level in innumerable places by deep 
ravines, abrupt precipices, and the channels of streams in their 
passage between the hills. Beds from five to ten or twelve feet 
thick are generally preferred for working, as they can be more 
readily and profitably mined than those of greater thickness. In 
beds of this size the roof can be supported by props and all the 
coal taken out, while those of twenty or thirty feet must be worked 
in chambers, and large pillars of coal left to support the roof or 
superincumbent mass. 

The usual mode of mining is by running a tunnel or drift into 
the hill, above the water level, either upon the coal bed or until it 
is reached. This drift is of sufficient size to admit the passage of 
rail road cars, and at the same time serves as a drain for the water 
of the mine. The breast of coal lying above this drift is then 
pursued by the miners to the summit or out crop, working out 
the coal as they proceed, and throwing it behind them or sliding 
it down to the drift, where it is loaded upon cars and drawn to the 
mouth of the mine, from which it is conveyed to the landings 
where the canal boats are loaded. Several beds of coal are fre- 
quently found in the same hill, sometimes separated but by a few 
feet of slate or sandstone ; others are several hundred feet apart. 
When that portion of the bed which lies above the drift has been 
exhausted, the process of working below water level must be 
commenced, and steam engines employed to raise the coal and 
water from the mine. The extent of the beds in their downward 
slope has not been ascertained, and ages will probably elapse be- 
fore the workings will have reached a depth sufficient to determine 
this question. 

The southern coal field may be considered as divided into four 
mining districts : the Lehigh, the Schuylkill, the Swatara, and the 
Susquehanna, which are separated from each other by the summits 
that divide the waters of these several streams. 

The Lehigh district is at the eastern extremity of this coal field, 
immediately north of the Sharp mountain, and is owned by the 
Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company. The summit mines are 
on the top of a high ridge, about nine miles from the river at the 
Mauch Chunk landing. Here is an immense mass of coal, about 
sixty feet thick, lying in nearly a horizontal position, which ap- 
pears to be composed by the union of several coal strata, with 



PRODUCTIONS. 119 

small intervening bands of slate. At this place mining operations 
have been extensively carried on for several years. The coal is 
uncovered by removing the superincumbent mass of earth and 
loose stones, which is from ten to twenty feet thick, and is then 
quarried out by the hght of day; while in most other mines tunnels 
are worked under ground into the hills, and the miner pursues his 
labour lighted by a solitary lamp, which glimmers but feebly in 
the profound and murky darkness of these subterranean exca- 
vations. 

At Rhume Run, north of the summit mines, a number of beds of 
coal have been opened, from five to nearly thirty feet thick, making 
a total thickness of more than one hundred feet of coal. Rail roads 
are laid from these and from the summit mines to the river near 
Mauch Chunk, and the coal is sent down the company's naviga- 
tion to the Delaware canal at Easton, whence it finds its way to 
market at Philadelphia, New York, and other places. 

The Schuylkill district is extensive, and comprises that portion 
of the southern coal field which lies on the various branches of the 
Schuylkill, between the waters of the Lehigh and Swatara. It in- 
cludes the Tamaqua, Little Schuylkill, Pottsville, Mine Hill, and 
other local subdivisions, all of which send their coal on the various 
rail roads and branches that extend in different directions from the 
mines to the river, where they communicate with the Schuylkill 
navigation^ or with the Philadelphia, Reading and Pottsville rail 
road. In this district are a few companies which have mining 
privileges ; but most of the operations are conducted by individual 
enterprise, for which the field is fairly open. Many beds are ex- 
tensively worked, yielding coal of different qualities ; some being 
hard, compact, and leaving white ashes after combustion; another 
variety softer, igniting and burning more freely, which leaves red 
ashes; and some intermediate kinds commonly called gray ash 
coal. 

The Swatara district lies on the waters of that stream, west of 
the Schuylkill, and the coal mined here is sent from the neighbour- 
hood of Pine Grove down the improvements of the Union Canal 
Company to the Susquehanna canal at Middletown, or eastward 
towards the Schuylkill. The coal produced in this district is gene- 
rally less compact, lighter, softer, and burns more freely than that 
from the same field farther eastward. The Sharp, Red, Coal, Lit- 
tle Lick, and Big Lick mountains contain beds from three to thirty 
feet in thickness, and being broken by the passage of many streams 
through them, afford great facilities for mining operations. 

The Susquehanna district includes the two points or western 
terminations of the southern coal field, which branches out 
towards the Susquehanna into two divisions. The southern of 
these, commonly called the Stony creek coal region, has been suf- 
ficiently examined to ascertain the existence of valuable beds of 
coal, some of which appears to possess a semi-bituminous cha- 
racter ; but from the want of facilities for transportation to the 
river, no mining operations of consequence have been undertaken 
in this region. The northern division, lying between WiUiams' 



120 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

and Lykens' valleys, commonly called the Bear Valley coal region, 
communicates with the river Susquehanna by a rail road from 
Bear Gap to Millersburg. The mines of the Lykens' valley com- 
pany at Bear Gap have been vrorked for several years, and produce 
a soft, free-burning coal of good quality. Numerous beds of coal 
exist here, and but a few of them have yet been opened. At Klin- 
ger's Gap, on the north side of Bear Valley, many fine beds are 
exposed, several of which have been opened and preparations 
made for working them as soon as a means of conveyance to the 
river shall be afforded. 

The middle coal field, which is composed of several minor basins, 
lies north of the Broad mountain, and includes the Beaver meadow 
and Hazelton mining district at its eastern end, the Mahanoy near 
the middle, and the Shamokin towards its western extremity. The 
coal of this region differs but little from that of the southern coal 
field either in character or quality; some of the beds producing 
white and others red ashes. The same change is noticed in the 
character of coal as we proceed westward, which has been men- 
tioned as occurring in the southern field. Thus at Hazelton and 
Beaver meadow Ave have a hard, shining, compact coal, of con- 
choidal fracture, consuming slowly and yielding an intense heat; 
while at Shamokin we find it more brittle, lighter, less compact 
and of much more ready combustion. Except at the points men- 
tioned, but little has yet been done towards developing the im- 
mense coal deposits of this field; and it can only be when the ex- 
tension of rail roads into the various portions of this wild and 
mountainous region shall afford the means of conveying its hidden 
treasures to a market, that they will become fully known and ap- 
preciated. 

The Beaver meadow, Hazelton and other mines in the same 
neighbourhood are worked by incorporated companies, who send 
their coal by rail roads to the Lehigh navigation, and thence to the 
Delaware canal. In the Mahanoy district, mines are opened near 
♦he Pottsville and Danville rail road, in the vicinity of Girardville, 
from which the coal can be sent to the Schuylkill at Pottsville ; or 
when this rail road shall be completed it may be sent westward to 
the Susquehanna. At Shamokin, near the present termination of 
the western section of the Pottsville and Danville rail road, a num- 
ber of mines are in operation, yielding various qualities of coal, 
the product of which is sent by that road to Sunbury, and thence 
down the Susquehanna canal to the towns along the river, or to 
Baltimore. 

The northern, or Wyoming and Lackawana coal field, is of 
nearly equal extent with each of the others, being about sixty-five 
miles in length and from one to five or six in breadth. Like the 
others it contains numerous beds of coal from one to thirty feet in 
thickness, which are exposed in many places by the deep channels 
and ravines among the hills. Mining operations in this region are 
mostly carried on by individual enterprise. Below Wilkesbarre, 
in the neighbourhood of Nanticoke, and in Plymouth, several pro- 
ductive mines are worked near the river, as well as others in the 



PRODUCTIONS. 121 

vicinity of Wilkesbarre. The mine of the Bahimore company is 
about three miles above Wilkesbarre^ where a solid bed of coal 
about 24 feet thick is opened ; and which in other places in the 
valley is said to be found 32 feet. This field extends up the valley 
of the Lackawana to Carbondale, at which place are the mines be- 
longing to the Hudson and Delaware canal company, who send 
their coal by their own rail road and canal to Rondout on the 
Hudson river, and thence to New York, Albany, and other places. 
This company transport no coal upon their improvements except 
that mined by themselves, and consequently prevent individuals 
from operating in this neighbourhood. 

The soil of the northern coal field presents a striking contrast 
with that of the middle and southern, being generally a beautiful 
and fertile valley, and forming a highly productive agricultural 
region ; while the others present a thin, barren, sterile soil, only 
small portions of which are susceptible of cultivation. In the 
favoured valley of Wyoming, the same acre of land may furnish 
employment for both the agriculturist and the miner. While one 
is occupied upon the surface in ploughing the soil or reaping the 
grain, the other may be engaged far beneath in mining and bring- 
ing forth the hidden treasures of the earth, stored away for count- 
less ages and intended for the future use and convenience of man. 

These three great deposits of anthracite coal have been calcu- 
lated to contain about 975 square miles, or 624,000 acres. It is 
estimated that each cubic yard of coal in the ground yields a ton 
when mined, so that a horizontal stratum of coal but three feet 
thick, extending over a space of one acre, would afford 4,840 tons, 
and proportionably more according to the steepness of the dip or 
inclination. Now when we consider the great number of coal beds 
each lying over the other, and that some of them reach the enor- 
mous thickness of fifty or sixty feet, we can scarcely bring the mind 
to conceive, much less to c^ilculate the vast quantity of this most 
valuable and indispensable article, which is so justly the pride 
and boast of Pennsylvania; nor how much it must in future years 
add to the wealth and importance of our State. 

With a view of showing the present value of our coal trade, yet 
in its infancy, we shall annex the quantity produced from each of 
the mining districts in 1841 and 1842, amounting to more than a 
million tons of anthracite in each year, of which about 800,000 
tons are annually exported to other States. 

Lehigh, Beaver Meadov^^, &c. 
Schuylkill, .... 
Swatara, .... 

Lyken's Valley, . 
Shamokin, .... 

Wyoming, .... 
Lackawana, .... 



1841. 


1842. 


142.821 tons. 272,126 tons 


584,692 ' 


540,892 " 


17,653 ' 


32,381 " 


4,379 ' 


4,864 '« 


21,463 ' 


10,000 " 


53,315 ' 


47,346 " 


192,270 ' 


205,253 " 



Total, . . . 1,016,593 " 1,112,862 " 

In 1820 only 365 tons of anthracite coal were sent to market. In 

11 



122 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

1830 the quantity had reached 174,737 tons : and in 1840, 865,414 
tons. 

Bituminous coal. The bituminous coal region of Pennsylvania 
lies principally west of the Allegheny mounlain, and though oc- 
cupying the same geological situation in the series of rock forma- 
tions as the anthracite, differs from it not only in quaUty, but in 
the position of its beds. These, instead of dipping like the an- 
thracite strata, at every angle of inclination, according to the dis- 
turbed position of the accompanying rock strata, are found extend- 
ing through the hills in nearly horizontal planes, or with occasional 
gentle rolls or undulations. Those irregularities called by the 
miners /awifs and troubles are seldom met with, and the bituminous 
coal beds, together with the rocks in which ihey are contained, 
are found in a position which shows that they have not been sub- 
ject to those mighty convulsions which have so disturbed the an- 
thracite region. 

In the bituminous coal field there appear to be not less than tea 
separate layers or beds of coal of sufficient capacity for mining, 
and which vary in thickness from three to ten feet. The same 
bed is not, however, of uniform dimensions Avherever found, and, 
in its range over a wide extent of country, may prove to have in- 
creased or diminished materially in thickness at different places 
where it is opened. Neither is the perpendicular distance of the 
coal seams from each other always the same, the rock strata be- 
tween them being also subject to similar variations in thickness. 

The area of the bituminous coal region in Pennsylvania has 
been estimated at 21,000 square miles, or 13,440,000 acres. 
This, however, is probably much beyond the real area containing 
coal, for it should be recollected that in a portion of this territory, 
even the lowest coal beds have been swept from the valleys and 
are only found in the elevated grounds. But throughout this vast 
range of country coal is mined to a greater or less extent, and is 
almost universally used for fuel and manufacturing purposes; and 
being almost literally found at every man's door it is preferred to 
wood, even in those parts of the country where timber is so 
abundant as to cost nothing but the trouble of cutting. Being 
thus freely used by the whole population of the region where it 
abounds, for almost every purpose requiring artificial heat, it is 
impossible to form a correct estimate of the quantity annually 
consumed. Its great abundance and cheapness have given rise to 
the vast and widely extended manufacturing establishments of the 
west, where enterprise and industry flourish in the smoky atmo- 
sphere produced by the thousands of fires which it feeds. 

It has been computed that in the city of Pittsburg and its 
suburbs nearly eight millions of bushels, or 260,000 tons of coal, 
are annually consumed. Vast quantities are also used in the salt 
works on the Allegheny, Kiskiminetas, Conemaugh and other 
streams, amounting probably to not less than five millions of 
bushels. If in addition to these we consider the quantity used in 
furnaces, rolling mills, and other manufacturing establishments in 
different places, that consumed in steamboats and stationary en- 



PRODUCTIONS. 123 

gines, together with the vast consumption for domestic and house- 
hold purposes, as well as that sent to other States, we may pro- 
bably safely estimate the quantity of bituminous coal mined annually 
in Pennsylvania at two millions of tons. About nine tenths of this 
amount is consumed within the State, and near 200,000 tons 
shipped down the Ohio. 

The increase in the consumption of this coal must in future 
years be very great, from the multiplication of furnaces, iron 
works, steam engines and large manufacturing establishments, as 
well as the natural increase of the population. The diminution 
of wood on the western waters must before long render coal the 
common fuel for steam engines on the Ohio and Mississippi, and 
for the same reason the consumption of coal in the towns along 
these rivers must at no distant day be very great. The quantity 
already used in Cincinnati alone is estimated at two millions of 
bushels, or about 70,000 tons annually, which is principally sup- 
plied from the beds on the Monongahela and Youghiogeny in 
Pennsylvania, and from the neighbourhood of Wheeling. 

Iron Ores. — The iron ores of Pennsylvania are entensively dif- 
fused throughout the State, and consist of several varieties, of 
which we shall briefly describe some of those most commonly 
used. The proportions of metallic iron mentioned as being con- 
tained in them are those yielded by chemical analvsis, and some- 
what exceed the quantity actually produced by the furnace. This is 
owing probably to the specimens analyzed having been rather purer 
than the general mass yielded from the mine, and also partly to the 
superiority of the laboratory over the furnace in effecting a com- 
plete separation of the iron from its attendant impurities in the ore. 

1. The magnetic oxide of iron is found chiefly in the primary 
rocks of the South mountain, between the Delaware and the Sus- 
quehanna, or near some of the trap dikes in the south-eastern part 
of the State. The colour of this ore is usually a dull iron black; it is 
very heavy; its structure imperfectly crystallized, granular, or 
laminated; lustre metaflic; and commonly possesses magnetic 
polarity. It yields from 60 to 70 per cent, of metallic iron. 

2. The brown and yellowish argillaceous, or hematite and pipe 
ores, which occur principally in and along the borders of most of 
the limestone valleys in the State, are abundant and extensively 
worked. The colour of this ore is usuafly a reddish or yellowish 
brown ; its structure various, being compact, cellular, laminated, 
fibrous or stalactitic, and its cavities commonly filled with yellow 
ochreous or clayey matter. When the different varieties of this 
ore are analyzed, they are found to contain from 45 to 60 per cent, 
of metallic iron. 

3. The fossiliferous ore from the variegated shale formation (V,) 
is found near Danville in Columbia county, and also at various 
places in Union, Juniata, Huntingdon, Bedford, and other coun- 
ties where that formation extends. This ore, though easily recog- 
nized by a practised eye, is somewhat variable in its appearance 
and external character. The softer varieties have a dull brown 
colour, an open, porous or ceUular structure, usuafly break into 



124 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA 

irregular rhomboidal masses, and frequently contain scales of mi- 
caceous oxide of iron, with the impressions and casts of shells and 
other fossil remains. When rubbed with a pointed piece of metal 
or other hard substance, a mark or streak is left upon the ore of a 
rich deep-red or purplish colour. The harder varieties have usu- 
ally a red colour, are compact in texture, calcareous or sihcious, 
also contain fossils, and have altogether a more compact and mas- 
sive character than the soft variety. As a general rule the soft and 
porous kinds of this ore are found nearest the surface, where they 
have been most exposed to the decomposing action of atmospheric 
agents ; while that from greater depths is commonly more com- 
pact, contains a larger proportion of carbonate of lime in its com- 
position, and works less easily in the furnace than the soft ore. 
The proportion of metallic iron contained in different varieties of 
this ore is from 40 to 60 per cent. 

4. The i)-oii ores of the coal regions are usually found in nodular 
concretions and kidney-shaped masses in the slates and shales ac- 
companying the coal seams, or often in flat bands and layers be- 
tween the slates. Ore is found both in the anthracite and bitumi- 
nous regions, and varies in character and quality according to its 
local position or other circumstances. It is usually in the state of 
an argillaceous proto-carhonate of iron, though much of that which 
lies on or near the surface has become so much oxidized as greatly 
to change its external character. When found in its original posi- 
tion, in the solid beds of slate, this ore is generally in hard com- 
pact rounded masses, with a close fine-grained texture, though 
sometimes appearing arenaceous, granular, or sub-oolitic ; colour 
dark slate blue or grayish. After having been for some time ex- 
posed to the atmosphere, these masses show a tendency to separate 
into concentric layers, the colour changes to reddish or yellowish 
brown by the process of oxidation, and the whole external character 
becomes so much altered by long exposure that many of the speci- 
mens found in the surface soil resemble the brown argillaceous ore 
on the borders of the limestone valleys. The ore of our coal region 
is of the same character as the " clay iron stone" which is so 
largely used in the manufacture of iron in England and Wales ; 
and superior in quality to much of that which is smelted in those 
countries. It yields from 30 to 50 per cent, of metaUic iron, and 
from its general dissemination throughout that part of the State 
where the other ores are not found, is becoming highly useful and 
important. 

5. Bog ore, which generally occurs in beds of limited extent and 
of inconsiderable depth, is found, less or more, in almost every 
county in the State. These beds have mostly been deposited by 
springs and small streams, the waters of which, passing through 
a ferruginous soil, have carried away a portion of the iron, which 
on exposure to the air becomes oxidized and is slowly deposited 
on the low grounds over which the water has flowed. But few of 
these deposits are worth working; not being in general sufficiently 
extensive to warrant the erection of furnaces in their vicinity, they 
are only useful as auxiliary to other ores. Bog ore is externally 



PRODUCTIONS. 125 

of a yellow or reddish brown colour; structure open, porous or 
cellular; brittle, friable or earthy; and frequently contains roots 
and vegetable fibres from trees and plants growing in or near it. 
Good varieties of this ore yield from 40 to 55 per cent, of metallic 
iron. 

The quantity of iron ore annually mined and smelted in Penn- 
sylvania may be ascertained with tolerable accuracy. According 
to returns made by the County Commissioners to the Secretary of 
the commonwealth in 1839, there were mined in the 699 town- 
ships which made returns, 334,151 tons. Only part of the town- 
ships in Berks, York and other counties made reports, while seve- 
ral counties known to be productive in iron ore, such as North- 
ampton, Lebanon, Mifflin, Juniata, Westmoreland, Venango, 
Fayette, &c., made no returns. If, therefore, we assume for the 
remaining 361 townships, the same ratio of production as those 
reported, we shall have as follows : 

Quantity of iron ore mined in 699 townships, 334,151 tons. 
" estimated for the remaining 361 

townships, 172,573 *' 



Total mined annually in the State, 506,724 " 

The accuracy of this statement is corroborated by the report of a 
committee to the Home Industry Convention, held at Harrisburg 
in 1842. This committee, which was appointed for the purpose 
of obtaining statistic information relative to the iron interest of 
Pennsylvania, state that in the 213 furnaces in Pennsylvania there 
are annually produced 190,000 tons of iron. Now if we estimate 
the average yield of ore in the furnace at 37^ per cent., which is 
allowing 2| tons of ore to make a ton of metal, we shall find that 
to produce these 190,000 tons of iron will require an annual con- 
sumption of 506,666 tons of ore, which is within 58 tons of the 
quantity stated above, as actually mined in the State in 1839. 

Marble and Limestone. — Marble of several kinds and different 
varieties of colour is found in various parts of the Stale, but it has 
not been quarried to much extent except in Montgomery and 
Chester counties. In the neighbourhood of Downingtown a supe- 
perior white marble is produced, of which large q^uantities have 
been conveyed to Philadelphia, and employed in the construction 
of many public and private edifices. East of the Schuylkill, below 
Norristown, are several extensive quarries which yield marble of 
various shades of colour, white, dark blue, and variegated; from 
which the city has been supplied with a vast amount of material, 
not only for building, but for many of the ornamental purposes 
for which this stone is used. The variegated breccia, commonly 
called Potomac marble, is found in many places along the northern 
and southern margins of the red shale formation which crosses 
several of the south-eastern counties, particularly where this red 
shale borders on a limestone. This rock, when susceptible of a 
fine polish, forms a beautiful material for ornamental work; but 
has not yet been brought into use to any considerable extent. 

11* 



126 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

It is scarcely possible to form an estimate of the incalculable ad- 
vantages derived by Pennsylvania from the limestones so exten- 
sively diiffused throughout the State. They impart fertihty to the 
soil wherever found ; they are used as a building stone for houses, 
barns, bridges, canal locks, &c., and they constitute an indispen- 
sable article of use in our furnaces for smelting iron ores. When 
burned into lime they yield a necessary ingredient in the mortar 
for stone-masons and bricklayers, for whitewashing, and for seve- 
ral purposes in manufactures and the arts. But it is from the 
benefits derived to our agriculture from the use of lime as a ma- 
nure for the soil, that our State is destined to be most enriched by 
this important article of her productions. In those districts where 
its value as a manure has been tested by experience and is properly 
understood, the intelligent farmer needs no argument to convince 
him that a quarry of good limestone on the border or within reach 
of a region where the soil is thin and unproductive, is of much 
more value to him than a mine of lead or silver, because the ex- 
pense of working it is trifling and the product sure. At several 
points on our canals and rail roads, vast quantities of limestone 
are quarried and transported to places where it is required for use ; 
and from the rapidly increasing demand it is becoming a consider- 
able item in the tolls upon our public works. 

Slate. This material is found in a number of places, sufficiently 
fissile and of such quality as to afford a good article for the manu- 
facture of roofing slates. In the range of slate- hills which crosses 
the Susquehanna from Lancaster into York county, it occurs 
abundantly near Peach Bottom, where quarries have been worked 
on both sides of the river. The largest amount is, however, now 
produced at the works about three miles west of Peach Bottom. 

Extensive quarries are also opened at several places in the slate 
formation which stretches along the south-eastern side of the Blue 
Mountain. At the works below the Delaware Water Gap, in 
Northampton county, an excellent roofing slate is produced, and 
school slates of superior material and workmanship are manu- 
factured to a considerable amount. Slate quarries are also worked 
near Nazareth, and on the west side of the Lehigh above Allen- 
town. 

In addition to the valuable mineral products already mentioned, 
a rock yielding excellent hydraulic cement is found abundantly in 
the neighbourhood of several of our limestone formations, and has 
been used in the construction of canal locks and for other purposes 
where this article is required. Brick and potters' clay of good 
quality occur in almost every part of the State; and accompanying 
many of our coal beds is that variety of clay shale from which 
tire bricks are made. Connected with the primary rocks in the 
south-eastern part of the State, are serpentine and soap stone, 
accompanied by chrome and magnesia. From the southern part 
of Lancaster county the last mentioned materials have been ob- 
tained for use in the manufactories of paints and Epsom salts in 
Baltimore. 

Ores of copper, zinc, and lead have been discovered in various 



PRODUCTIONS. 127 

places within the State^ but have not yet been found to exist in 
sufficient quantity to render the working of them an object of 
profit. 

IV. Productions of the Foi-est. 

About two thirds of the surface of Pennsylvania is yet covered 
with timber, and though our primitive forests, except in some of 
the less inhabited parts of the State, have been thinned by the 
woodman's axe, enough still remains to render our woodland pro- 
ducts valuable and important for many future years. On the 
rocky, but tree-clad mountain, in the dark and unfrequented pine 
swamp, and through the wild and wide forest ranges in the in- 
terior counties, are immense masses of timber which will long 
resist the slow but sure process of destruction to which our forests 
seem to be doomed. 

The productions of our timber lands are numerous and import- 
ant. They yield an incalculable amount of fuel for domestic and 
manufacturing purposes, including the charcoal used for making 
and manufacturing iron in our furnaces, forges, foundries, and 
smith-shops ; they supply our saw-mills with the logs which are 
sawed into boards, and other lumber for buildings, cabinet-makers, 
and various other mechanical purposes ; they furnish the tougher 
and stronger kinds of wood from which our farming utensils are 
made, as well as the vast amount required for fences in our agri- 
cultural districts. The quantity used in ship and boat building is 
considerable; staves and shingles are manufactured to a large 
amount annually, — and of all the multiplied uses to which wood 
is applied, but few can be named which may not be supplied from 
the forests of Pennsylvania. 

The timber most in demand for boards and shingles is white 
pine, which is still abundant in some of the northern counties, and 
forms a valuable portion of their products, being floated down the 
Delaware, Susquehanna and Allegheny rivers to a market. Spruce 
or hemlock is sawed into lumber for buildings and fences ; yellow 
or pitch pine and oak, for purposes requiring greater strength and 
durability. Cherry is used chiefly for cabinet work, maple and 
poplar for bedsteads, chair-makers, and various other purposes. 
Chesnut is much valued for fences, and locust for posts and other 
uses where a less durable wood would be subject to speedy decay. 
White-oak and hickory, being strong and tough, are used by 
wheelwrights in the manufacture of wagons and farming imple- 
ments ; other kinds of oak are made into staves ; — and it may be 
said that scarcely a tree grows in our woods which is not adapted 
to some useful purpose. 

Of the annual value of our forest productions it is not easy to 
form a correct estimate. There are in the State 5,389 saw mifls, 
producing about 400,000,000 of feet of lumber; and the value of 
the unsawed timber, shingles and staves ^ent to market, is probably 
not less than $500,000. To this is to be added the amount re- 
quired for home consumption, as well as the value of the timber 
used for other purposes, of which no calculation can be made. 



128 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

In addition to the timber which our forests afford, they yield us 
annually more than two millions of pounds of maple sugar, about 
2,000 barrels of tar, pitch, turpentine and rosin, and nearly 300 tons 
of pot and pearl ashes. 

Under what four general divisions may the productions of Pennsylvania 
be considered ? Why are the census returns supposed to be generally less 
than the real amount ? For what branch of domestic industry is this State 
distinguished ? What are the characteristics of Pennsylvania agriculture ? 
Describe the system of crops generally pursued. What kinds of grain are 
chiefly produced ? Mention some of the other agricultural productions. 
What is said of the various modes of culture in different parts of the State ? 
What kinds of fruit are produced ? What is said of the general condition 
of the farmers of Pennsylvania? — Of their buildings? — Of the horses? 
What other animals are used for labour? What is said of the stock of cat- 
tle ? — Of the sheep ? — Of the swine ? Can you tell the number of each de- 
scription of live stock in Pennsylvania? The amount of each kind of agri- 
cultural product named ? 

Which is the most important production of our manufactures ? What is 
said about the indispensable utility of iron ? In which counties is it most 
abundantly produced ? How many furnaces are in the State, and what is 
the quantity of iron manufactured ? How many forges, rolhng mills, &c., 
and what is the amount of their produce ? What is the capital invested, 
and how many persons are employed and supported by the iron works? 
How many mills of each kind, and what is the value of their productions? 
{Similar questions may be asked respecting each branch of manufactures.) 

What is said of the mineral wealth ot Pennsylvania? Why are mines 
of coal and iron considered of more value to a country than those of the pre- 
cious metals ? What nations are mentioned as examples of the truth of 
this opinion ? What has been the effect of an abundant supply of coal and 
iron in Great Britain ? What is said of our advantages in this respect, com- 
pared with that country ? Describe the situation of the anthracite coal of 
our State. What is the thickness of the beds of coal, and how are they ex- 
posed ? Describe the usual mode of mining coal. Into what mining dis- 
tricts is the southern coal field divided ? Describe the mines of the Lehigh 
district. What subdivisions of the Schuylkill district are mentioned? What 
is said of the mining operations in them, and of the varieties of coal pro- 
duced ? Where is the Swatara district, and by what route is its coal sent 
to market ? What is said of its mines, and of the quality of the coal? Men- 
tion the two divisions of the Susquehatma district, and the places wiiere 
mines are worked. How is the middle coal field situated, and what mining 
districts are in it ? What is said of the difference m the quality of its coal ? 
By what route is the Beaver Meadow and Hazelton coal sent to market ? — 
Also that from the Mahanoy and Shamokin mines ? What is the extent of 
the Wyoming and Lackawana coal field compared with each of the others ? 
What is said of its beds of coal, and at what places mined ? By what route 
is the coal at Carbondale sent to market ? How does the soil of this coal 
field compare with that of the others ? What is the extent of our anthracite 
coal deposits, and what is said of the quantity contained in them ? What 
amount of anthracite was produced in each of the years 1841 and 1842, and 
how much in each mining district ? What was the amount in each of the 
years 1820, '30, and '40 ? In what part of the State is most of the bitumi- 
nous coal found ? In what particulars of situation does it differ from the an- 
thracite ? What is said of the number of its beds, their thickness, &c. ? 
What is the supposed area of the bituminous coal region in Pennsylvania ? 
What is said of the general use of coal over this extent of country ? What 
has resulted from the abundance of coal in the western part of the State ? 
At what places is it largely used for manufacturing purposes ? What quan- 
tity is supposed to be annually consumed, and how much mined ? What is 
said of the probable increase in its consumption ? 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 129 

Mention the varieties of iron ore most common in Pennsylvania. Where 
IS the magnetic ore found, and what are its properties ? The brown argil- 
laceous or hematite ore ? The fossiliferous ore, and what is said of its seve- 
ral varieties ? In what situations do the iron ores of the coal formations oc- 
cur ? What is said of their character and quality ? How does bog ore oc- 
cur, and what is said of it ? What is the total estimated amount of iron ore 
annually mined in the State ? What is the estimated average yield of ore 
in the furnace, and what is the annual product of iron ? 

In which of the counties is most of our marble obtained ? Near what 
places are there extensive quarries, and what kinds are produced ? In what 
part of the State is the " Potomac marble" found ? What is said of the 
general benefits derived from Umestone ? To what purposes is it apphed ? 
Which of these is considered most important to the wealth of the State ? 

In what places is roofing slate quarried for use ? What is said of hydrau- 
lic cement or water hme ? Of useful kinds of clay ? What other valuable 
minerals are mentioned ? 

What is said of the quantity of timber in Pennsylvania ? Mention the 
useful purposes supplied by our forest productions. What several kinds of 
timber are spoken of as most important, and to what uses applied ? What 
is the estimated amount of lumber annually produced ? Mention some 
other valuable productions of our forests. 



18. Trade and commerce.* 

Commerce is usually considered under two heads, the foreign and home 
trades ; but inasmuch as Pennsylvania is one of a confederacy of States, 
each exercising almost unhmited sovereignty within its own borders, and 
yet all, in their relation to foreign states, to be considered as a unit, the 
subject may more properly be presented in three divisions ; first the foreign 
trade, or interchange of commodities with foreign nations; secondly the 
domestic trade, or interchange with the other states of the Union ; and 
thirdly the internal trade, or that between different sections of the State. 

The foreign trade. t — Of the early history of the foreign trade of Penn- 
sylvania, we have but little authentic infoimation. We have every reason, 
however, to beheve that its extent was very limited, until after the estab- 
lishment of Penn's colony in 1682. 

Prior to Penn's embarkation for America he disposed of 20,000 acres of 
land to an association, entitled the Free Society of Traders of Pennsylva- 
nia, which was formed in England and confirmed by patent, for the avowed 
purpose of promoting the interests not only of the stockholders of the com- 
pany, but of all concerned in the trade of the colony. This company at- 
tempted to estabhsh various manufactures and other industrial pursuits in 
the province. In a letter from Penn to the committee of the society, resid- 
ing in London, dated " Philadelphia 16th of 6th mo., called August," we 
find mention made of a tannery, a saw-mill, and a glass house, a whalery, 
and a dock, as belonging to it; and also that Penn advised them to attempt 
the cuhure of the vine for wine, and the manufacture of hnen. These at- 
tempts to introduce the culture of the vine, the manufacture of glass and 



* Works consulted in the preparation of this article. — Colonial Records of Pennsyl- 
vania, Proud's History of Pennsylvania, Gordon's History of Pennsylvania, Hazard's Re- 
gister of Pennsylvania, Reports of the Secretary of the Treasury on the Commerce and IV a- 
vigation of the United States, Seybert's Statistical Annals of the United States, Pitkin's 
Commerce of the United States, Hazard's Commercial and Statistical Register, Whit- 
worth's State of Trade, Holmes' American Annals, Life and Writings of B. Franklin, 
Harris' Pittsburg Directory, and the Commercial List and Philadelphia Price Current. 

f As the British North American colonies were entirely independent of each other until 
after the severance of their connexion with the mother country, the trade of Pennsylvania 
with the others, prior to 1776, is properly included in the foreign trade. 



130 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

linen, and the whale fishery amongst the colonists, did not prove success- 
ful ; of the further operations of the company we know little or nothing. 
In the first year of the estabhshment of the colony, 26 ships arrived with 

fiassengers and emigrants, and 40 trading vessels great and small. These 
atterwere, no doubt, laden with provisions, furniture, and stores of various 
kinds for the colonists, and took Uttle if any export cargo. In the next two 
years 24 more ships arrived with emigrants. For the first few years the 
attention of the settlers was, necessarily, very much engrossed by the clear- 
ing of land and the culture of grain, for the consumption of the colony ; but 
" trade and commerce, in which the Quakers were known to excel," soon 
claimed their notice. A trade was opened with the Indians, for furs and 
skins ; and the culture of tobacco was carried on so extensively that in one 
year (1688-9,) there were exported 14 cargoes of the weed. In this branch 
of agriculture, however, Virginia and Maryland were found too powerful 
rivals ; and it was soon abandoned for the culture of wheat, barley, oats, 
rye, tStc, and the grazing of cattle and cutting of timber : the exports of the 
province undergoing a corresponding change. 

The war between England and France, commencing in 1688 and termi- 
nating in 1697, operated injuriously on the interests of the colony. About 
the latter end of this period we find allusion made to the poverti^ of the pro- 
vince, and to the impediments to its commerce, consequent upon the war; 
and it is stated that '• in Philadelphia even, pieces of tin and lead were cur- 
rent for small change." 

The course of trade, from this early period until the separation of the 
province from the British empire, appears to have undergone but little 
change, although extended in its range. The exports, consisting of grain, 
salt provisions, pipe staves, &c., and at a later date including flour, bread, 
flaxseed, iron, &c., were not wanted in England, at that time a great grain- 
exporting country ; but found a market in the neighbouring provinces and 
the West Indies ; and subsequently also in Portugal, Spain, several Euro- 
pean and African ports in the Mediterranean, and the various groups of 
islands in the North Atlantic adjacent to Africa. The returns from these 
various branches of foreign trade, excepting a small portion required for the 
consumption of the province and its trade with the Indians, were all carried 
to England ; or the produce received was sold in other foreign countries 
and the proceeds remitted to England, where all the available funds of the 
province were required to pay for the manufactures imported thence, which, 
from the restrictions imposed by parliament on manufacturing in the colo- 
nies, were to a very great amount, embracing almost every article of cloth- 
ing, and household utensils even of the most simple and common kinds. 

The following table exhibits the vast excess of imports over exports, in 
the trade of the province with Great Britain, from 1697 to the commence- 
ment of the war of Independence, and also shows the effect of war and 
other operative causes, on the amount of importations. 

During the war between Great Britain on the one part and France and 
Spain on" the other, which continued from 1702 to 1713, the commerce of 
the province was exposed to repeated depredations by privateers. In 1707-8 
the captures of vessels oflf the capes of the Delaware were so frequent 
as almost wholly to interrupt the trade, which had in addition, about this 
period, to bear the exaction of dues for the privilege of navigating the Dela- 
ware, levied by order of Govprnor Evans, at a fort erected at New Castle. 

The war between Great Britain and Spain, in 1717 and '18, does not 
appear to have materially affected the colony. 

The year 1722 was one of great commercial embarrassment in the pro- 
vince. The importations appear to have been too great, the country was 
drained of specie for remittance to England, and there was consequently 
a deficiency in the circulating medium. The payment of debts was pro- 
crastinated, lawsuits multiplied, produce was made a legal tender in pay- 
ment of debts, executions for debt were stayed, the rate of interest was 
reduced from 8 to 6 per cent, and the value of coin was raised 25 per cent. 
These measures naturally tended to destroy confidence in the results of all 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 



131 



trading operations ; but did not, as was intended, prevent the exportation 
of specie. 



E. vs. S. 



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To remedy the evil, in the latter part of this year a scheme for a paper 
currency was first laid before the Assembly of Pennsylvania ; and in March 
following, after much controversy, a law was enacted for the issue of £15,000 
currency, in bills of credit of from Is. to £1 in value, to be loaned in sums 
of from £12 to £100, at an interest of 5 per cent, per annum, on pledge of 
real estate, ground rents or plate, of double the value of the advance ; said 
bills to be a legal tender. In the latter part of the same year a further 
issue of £30,000 was authorized. By this timely relief, and doubtless still 
more by the increase of industry and economy induced by the recent hard 
times, the commerce of the province was soon revived. 

The effect produced may be observed, by reference to the amounts of 



* Peace established this year between England and France. 

f First issue of government bills of credit in the province, to supply deficiency of cur- 
rency occasioned by too large importations. 

X Non-importation agreements were adopted in this year at most of the ports in the Bri- 
tish North American colonies. 



132 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

imports and exports, as well as by the examination of the annexed statement 
of the Commerce of the province and Tonnage built during these years. 



Year. 


Vessels built. 


Tonnage. 


Vessels cleared. 


Tonnage. 


1719 


, — 


. . 


. 128 


. 4,514 


1720 


. 





140 


3,982 


1721 


. 


. . 


. Ill 


. 3,711 


1722 


10 


428 


96 


3,531 


1723 


13 


507 


99 


. 3.942 


1724 


19 


959 


119 


5,450 


1725 


. — . 





. . 140 


. 6,655 



At various subsequent periods, in 1729, '39, '45 and '46, acts were 
passed for creating or re-emitting bills of credit. In 1748, when the amount 
outstanding was £85,000 cur., or ^^53,333 stg., a bill to increase the issues 
was brought before the Assembly ; but was postponed on account of an at- 
tempt, at that time being made in parliament, to restrain all the American 
colonies from issuing bills of credit as a circulating medium. In the bill 
which passed parliament in 1751, prohibiting the northern colonies from 
creating or re-issuing bills of credit, except on extraordinary occasions, 
Pennsylvania was not included ; her bills having remained at par or nearly 
so, while those of Massachusetts, owing to excessive issues, had depre- 
ciated to less than one-seventh their original value. Encouraged by this 
favour shown them, the Assembly in 1752 prepared a bill for a fresh issue 
of je40,000. Frankhn, who was chairman of the committee to which the 
matter was referred, stated in a very forcible and lucid manner the advan- 
tages which had accrued to the province, and which might still be antici- 
pated, from a moderate issue of paper currency; the measure, however, 
being in opposition to the wishes of the proprietaries, did not meet with the 
approval of the Governor, but led to long and angry discussions between 
him and the Assembly. No further issues were made until the war with 
the French on the western frontiers, in 1755, rendered them absolutely 
necessary. In 1730 the imports were to a very large amount, and, probably 
to assist in liquidating claims on account of a portion of these, an insolvent 
law was passed. The exportation of the staples of the Province about this 
period was as follows : 



Vears. 


Bu. wheat. 


Mis. flour. 


Casks bread. 


Vahie ofwheatjflour, 
bread and flaxseed. 


1729 
17.30 
1731 


74,800 
38,643 
53,320 


35,438 
38,570 
56,639 


9,730 

9,622 

12,436 


£ currency. 
62,473 
57,500 
62,5^ 



In this latter year the population of Philadelphia was estimated at 12,000. 
The commerce of the Province annually employed about 6,000 tons of 
shipping ; and about 2,000 tons were annually sold in foreign ports, princi- 
pally West Indian. 

The commerce of the Provuice from March 25, 1735, to March 25, 1736, 
was as follows : 

London 
Bristol, Eng. 
Liverpool 
Ireland . 

Gibraltar 
Lisbon 
Cadiz 
Madeira 
Turk's Island 
Antigua . 
Barbadoes 
Jamaica 

Carried up 107 124 199 212 

Of the arrivals 51 were ships, 13 snows, 44 brigs, and the remainder smaller 

vessels. 



Arrivals. 


Clearances. 


11 


10 


. 9 


3 


2 





. 14 


23 


1 


6 


. 6 


13 


6 


2 


. 7 


5 


3 





20 


20 


. 19 


26 


9 


16 





Arrivals. 


Clearances. 


Brought up, 


. 107 


124 


St. Christopher' 


's 9 


9 


JVewfoundland 


3 


1 


Boston 


17 


10 


Rhode Island 


. 8 


7 


JVew York 


. 4 


2 


Maryland 


7 


13 


Virginia 


• 5 


2 


North Carolina 


7 


5 


South Carolina 


1 


15 


Georgia 


1 


2 


Not specified 


. 30 


22 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 133 

Hostilities between Great Britain and Spain were recommenced in 1739 ; 
and in the following year the enemy kept several privateers off the Ameri- 
can coast, which cruised successfully against the colonial commerce. In 
1743 war was declared between Great Britain and France. In 1746, the 
enemy, finding the Delaware unprotected, made many captures, ascending 
the river as high as New Castle, and even threatening Philadelphia. In 
May 1748 the city was again thrown into a state of great alarm, and bat- 
teries were erected for its defence, owing to the appearance of a Spanish 
privateer in the bay. To retaliate in some measure upon the enemy, two 
privateers, the Wilmington and the Delaware, were fitted out and sent on a 
cruise. 

The restoration of peace in 1749 gave a powerful impulse to commerce. 
The imports from Great Britain in this one year were nearly equal in 
amount to those of any three consecutive years preceding. The values of 
exports of wheat, flour, bread and flaxseed were as follows: — in 1749 
X148,104 currency, in 1750 ^£155, 175, and in 1751 ;ei87,457; and the 
number of vessels cleared from 1749 to 1752, averaged annually 403 ; the 
population of Philadelphia being estimated at 15,000. This activity in 
trade continued, despite the refusal of the Governor to increase the paper 
currency, until the diflaculties with the French and Indians on the western 
frontier, in 1755, 

On the 4th March, 1753, the schooner Argo, Capt. Swaine, was des- 
patched by the merchants of Philadelphia, in search of a north-west pas- 
sage to India. Touching in New England, he entered Hudson's straits and 
came in sight of the island of Resolution. Vast quantities of driving ice 
forced him out of the straits, into which having in vain attempted to re- 
enter, and the season for discovery on the west side of the bay being over, 
he shaped his course for the coast of Labrador, along which he sailed from 
56° to 65° north latitude, discovering six inlets, to the heads of all which he 
sailed and prepared charts of them. The vessel returned in safety to Phi- 
ladelphia, whence she was again despatched on a similar voyage, under the 
command of the same captain, in 1754. From this voyage Capt. Swaine 
returned, without success, in October of the same year, having had three 
of his crew killed by the Indians. The merchants of the city expressed 

general satisfaction with Capt. Swaine' s proceedings, and made him a 
andsome present. These we believe to have been the earliest voyages 
of discovery made by any of the North American colonists. 

During the continuance of the seven years' war (which was commenced 
by a collision between the English and French troops on the western 
frontier of Pennsylvania, in 1755, although war was not declared until the 
following year) the commerce of the province suffered severely ; the value 
of imports from Great Britain varying from jC144,456 stg. in 1755, to 
jC707,998 stg. in 1760. This latter sum, it is probable, from its vast amount, 
included military stores. Serious losses were occasioned to the mercantile 
community by the provincial government prohibiting the exportation of 
provisions and military stores to French ports, in 1756 and '7. 

The restoration of peace with France and Spain, in 1763, removed many 
restrictions from commerce ; but found the province burthened wdth a 
heavy debt, incurred in carrying on the war, her people impoverished, her 
merchants largely indebted to those of the mother country for goods im- 
ported, and trade generally depressed. 

The continuance of difficulties with the Indians on the western frontier, 
after the restoration of peace with France, for some time kept the province 
in a state of excitement, (the boldness of the incursions alarming even the 
Philadelphians,) and tended to increase the embarrassment of trade. 

The effect of these disturbing influences had not passed away when the 
British parliament, in 1764, commenced a course of injustice and oppression 
towards the North American colonies, which at length forced them into 
open rebellion, and resulted in their independence. With a fixed deter- 
mination to resist the collection of all taxes imposed without their consent, 

12 



134 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

the colonists met the repeated attempts of the home government to force 
these odious measures upon them, by non-consuming and non-importation 
agreements, and at length by open resistance. Our hmits preclude more 
than a passing notice of these exciting events, which, however, arc detailed 
in every history of the American revolution. The influence of the non- 
importation agreements on commerce may be seen by contrasting the value 
of imports from Great Britain in 1769, (£199,909 stg.) when these agree- 
ments were generally adopted throughout the rebeUious colonies, with that 
of the imports in 1771 (.£728,744 stg.) when the non-importation restric- 
tions were removed, save in reference to tea. 

The following view of the trade of the province, given by FrankUn iri 
1766; during his examination before the British House of Commons, in re- 
ference to the repeal of the stamp act, shows it to have been so completely 
tributary to that of Great Britain, as to leave little cause for regret at the 
separation of the two governments, which shortly followed. The imports 
from Great Britain into the province, he says, are computed at more than 
£500,000 stg. annually, and the exports to Great Brtain at only £40,000 stg, 
the balance being paid Ijy the produce of the province carried to the British, 
French, Spanish, Danish and Dutch West India Islands ; to New England, 
Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Carolina and Georgia; and to different 
parts of Europe, as Spain, Portugal and Italy ; for which either money, 
bills of exchange or other commodities, suitable for a remittance to England, 
are received. These, together with the profits of the merchants and 
mariners, as well as the freights earned in their circuitous voyages, all 
finally centre in Great Britain, to pay for British manufactures used in the 
province, or sold to foreigners by the American traders. 

Notwithstanding the measures of the home government, calculated, if not 
intended to injure the province, her resources were rapidly developed; 
and commerce, despite the many vexatious restrictions imposed, prospered, 
until stopped by a state of open warfare. We append a statement of the 
commerce in the years 1771-2-3 : the exports in the years 1774-5 being to 
a still greater amount. 

Value of Exports. Clearances. 



, Total. 

Years. £ . ats- Square rigged vessels. Sloops and schooners. Tonnage. 

1771 631,554 - 381 . - - 391 - - 46,654 

1772 784,254 - . 370 - - . 390 - - - 46,841 

1773 720,135 - 426 . - - 370 - - 46,972 

From 1776 until 1783 Pennsylvania had little or no foreign trade; her 
merchants, however, were not idle ; but amongst the foremost in patrioti- 
cally sustaining the struggle for independence, by their example, their mo- 
ney and their personal services. 

The first bank established in the United States was opened at Philadel- 
phia, July 17, 1780, under the title of the Bank of Pennsylvania, with a 
capital of £300,000 currency; the especial object of its creation being to 
supply the army with provisions. This bank, we believe, continued in ex- 
istence until the Bank of North America went into operation, .Tanuary 7, 
1782. The latter was the only bank in Pennsylvania, until the United 
States' Bank commenced business in 1791. 

With the restoration of peace in 1783, commerce was resumed ; but much 
remained to be done in order to place it in a prosperous condition. A.broad, 
new relations had to be formed with countries whose sovereigns, with the 
return of peace, were disposed to pursue their old protective pohcy for the 
benefit of their own trade and commerce, and who looked with an evil eye 
upon our democratic institutions. At home, matters of still greater moment 
called for regulation : a currency deranged ; public and private credit almost 
prostrate ; tariffs various in the different states, and conflicting and fluctu- 
ating in a manner ruinous to trade and demoralizing to the community, by 
the temptation offered for smuggling : — these were some of the main de- 
pressing evils under which commerce laboured, and which had yet to be 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 135 

removed ere it could prosper. The imports of manufactured goods, shortly 
after the return of peace, it is true, were to a large amount ; (e. g. from 
Great Britain in 1783 ^£245,258 ; in 1784 X689,491 ;) but this was no evi- 
dence of returning prosperity ; on the contrary it tended still further to em- 
barrass, as the indebtedness incurred was far beyond the means of payment. 

These difficulties continued throughout the United States, without mate- 
rial abatement, until, by the adoption of the federal constitution, in 1789, the 
thirteen republics unitedly placed themselves among the great powers of the 
earth. This compact not only increased the physical force of the repubUc, 
but, by the abohtion of all transit duties between the states of the Union, 
and the prohibition of preference of any kind to the ports of one state over 
those of another, in the laws regulating commerce or revenue, it produced 
friendly feelings and a community of interests, in the different sections of 
the Union, where before had existed jealousy and bitter rivalry. Commer- 
cial relations were now entered into with the principal European nations, 
trade and commerce revived, the resources of the country were rapidly de- 
veloped, and by the establishment of the bank of the United States, in 1791, 
a currency universally accredited was furnished. In the improved condi- 
tion of the Union above noted, Pennsylvania fully participated. 

A new era now opened to the commerce of the United States, in which 
the wars occasioned by the French revolution exerted a most powerful in- 
fluence. By reference to the following table of Imports, Exports, Duties, 
Drawbacks, Tonnage, and Arrivals, from 1791 to 1841 inclusive, the effect 
produced on the foreign trade, by causes to which we shall allude, may be 
noted. 

In 1792 France commenced her wars with the other European powers, 
and excepting an interval of peace of about 14 months, in 1802-3, continued 
them without intermission until the abdication of Napoleon in 1814. On 
the return of the Emperor in 1815, hostilities were renewed, and finally 
terminated in this year. 

The vast numbers, in Europe, diverted from agricultural and other indus- 
trial pursuits by these wars, created a large market for the produce of 
Pennsylvania ; while the immense naval armaments of the combatants, in 
all parts of the ocean, rendering it necessary to employ neutral ships to 
carry the produce of the French, Spanish, and Dutch colonies to the parent 
states, gave profitable employment to a large amount of her tonnage. Nor 
did her merchants rest satisfied with acting merely as carriers ; they em 
barked in the trade on their own account, and also imported largely frorr. 
China and India, for re-exportation to European markets; e. g. in 1806, 
there arrived at Philadelphia from Canton 12 ships and 1 brig, of an aggre- 
gate tonnage of 4,226 tons : — all with very valuable cargoes. Large for- 
tunes were rapidly made ; and many persons, before engaged in other em- 
ployments, were induced to turn merchants. The commerce of the United 
States prospered to a degree unprecedented in the history of any nation, 
and in this prosperity Philadelphia, through which passed the whole foreign 
trade of the State, shared largely ; her population increasing from 42,000 in 
1790 to upwards of 96,000 in 1810. 

Shortly after the declaration of hostilities between France and England, 
these two nations commenced issuing decrees and orders in council, and 
laying embargoes, of a most unjust and arbitrary character, for the avowed 
purpose of restricting the trade of neutrals with the enemy. Nor were the 
two great mantime powers of Europe alone in these restrictive measures ; 
but by their influence or commands, Spain and other European govern- 
ments followed in their footsteps. 

In 1794 a treaty was concluded with England, by which she engaged to 
pay $10,000,000 to the United States, as a compensation for property ille- 
gally taken, under her orders in council. 

In 1798, in consequence of the arbitrary measures of the French govern- 
ment, commercial relations between the United States and that nation were 
suspended, and partial hostiUties followed, but no declaration of war ensued. 
These difficulties were settled by treaty in 1800. 



136 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



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TRADE AND COMMERCE. 



137 



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12^ 



138 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The peace of Amiens, in 1802, restoring quiet to Europe, materially re- 
duced the exports of Pennsylvania ; but by the resumption of hostilities, in 
the following year, a fresh impetus was given to her commerce, which 
was only stayed by the embargo, to which we shall presently refer. 

The continental system, Napoleon's favourite scheme for crushing the 
power of his great enemy, by prohibiting the importation of British produce 
and manufactures on the continent, was commenced by the issue of his 
celebrated Berlin decree, on November 21, 1806, declaring the British 
islands in a state of blockade, and prohibiting all commerce and correspond- 
ence with them. In retaUation, his Britannic Majesty in council published 
three orders, bearing date November 11, 1807, (other orders previously is- 
sued not proving effective,) by which, in addition to restrictions too numer- 
ous and complex -to admit of specification here, -all neutral vessels trading 
■with France or her allies, were ordered, on pain of condemnation, to stop 
at a British port, submit their cargoes to inspection and pay a duty on the 
same. 

The Milan decree, dated December 17, 1807, was issued by Napoleon 
as a rejoinder to the obnoxious orders in council, and declared that any ves- 
sel which had submitted to search by an English ship, or to a voyage to 
England for that object, or had paid any tax whatsoever to the English go- 
vernment, should be deemed denationalized, and a good and lawful prize. 

On the 22d December, 1807, the United States government, prior to the 
receipt of the three orders in council, but with advices which satisfied them 
that measures of such a character were about being taken by the British 

fovernment, laid an embargo on all vessels in the ports and harbours of the 
Jnited States. This measure, unpopular as it was with the mercantile com- 
munity, and deeply injurious to their interests, appeared to be the only 
alternative left the government, unless disposed to engage in a war. The 

great falling off in the exports of Pennsylvania, in 1808, and the consequent 
epreciation in the value of ships, was severely felt in Philadelphia, at that 
time the greatest commercial city of the Union. 

The long embargo, as it is usually denominated, was raised March 1, 
1809, and on May 20th of the same year non-intercourse was estabhshed 
with England and France. Great efforts were made, by the United States 
government, to induce the British and French governments to repeal their 
unjust orders and decrees. An arrangement ot this character was effected 
with the British minister at Washington, and, in consequence, trade was 
resumed with England June 10, 1809; but the British government refusing 
to confirm the act of its agent, non-intercourse with that country was 
again established. Napoleon had long endeavoured and hoped to drive the 
Americans into a war with England. The opening of the trade with that 
country, while non-intercourse existed with France, was, therefore, a source 
of great vexation to him ; he, however, dissembled his anger until the ports 
of his European allies were well filled with American shipping, when, in 
the month of March, 1810, by his Rambouillet decree, he ordered them to 
be seized. In this way vessels and goods, to the amount of many milhons 
of dollars, were confiscated almost without the pretence of justice. 

The laws directing non-intercourse with England and France were re- 
pealed by the United States in May, 1810, and a law enacted admitting to 
her ports the commercial vessels of those nations ; but excluding their armed 
ships, and providing that if either of the above nations should modify its 
edicts before the 3d March, 1811, so that they should cease to violate neu- 
tral commerce, of which fact the president was to give notice by proclama- 
tion, and the other nation should not, within three months after, pursue a 
like course, commercial intercourse with the first might be renewed, but 
not with the other. 

Napoleon was shortly after induced to give a promise of rather doubtful 
import ; but which was construed, by the United States' government, to be 
an engagement to repeal his BerUn and Milan decrees, provided the British 
government would withdraw their retaliatory orders in council. This the 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 139 

British government declined doing, on the ground that Napoleon's promise 
was not what the Americans chose to consider it. 

Non-intercourse with Great Britain was again resumed by the United 
States' government, November 10, 1810, and, after several engagements 
between the armed vessels of the two nations, war Was declared June 19, 
1812, four days after which the orders in council were repealed. The right 
of searching American vessels for British born subjects, and of reclaiming 
them wherever found, which was asserted by the enemy, may be con- 
sidered the main ground for the continuance of hostilities. 

During the war the commerce of Pennsylvania was hmited in its extent, 
and, in addition to the enemy abroad, had to contend with an evil at home, 
almost as disastrous in its effects — viz : a deranged currency. With the ex- 
piration of the charter of the United States Bank, in 1811, a mania arose for 
the creation of banks, under the influence of which 41, with an aggregate 
capital of $17,000,000, were chartered by Pennsylvania, in 1814 : — 37 of these 
going into operation. In the autumn of this year a general suspension of specie 
payments, by all the banks south and west of the New England States, fol- 
lowed. The issues of their irredeemable paper were increased, and on 
July 1, 1816, the paper of the Philadelphia banks was at a depreciation of 
17 to 18 per cent. ; while that of the banks at Pittsburg and the western 
part of the State was at 25 per cent, discount. That this undue expansion 
of the currency exerted a powerful influence on commerce, can scarcely be 
doubted. To this cause, in some degree at least, may be attributed the vast 
amount of imports into the United States in 1815-16; paying a handsome 
profit to the early operators, but entaiUng heavy losses and bankruptcy 
upon a much larger number. 

The second Bank of the United States commenced operations January 7, 
1817 ; and in February entered into a compact with the State banks along the 
seaboard, in accordance with which they immediately resumed specie pay- 
ments. Efficient measures for a contraction of the paper currency to a sound 
state do not appear, however, to have been taken until 1819 ; when the dis- 
tress consequent upon this course of action was severely felt, not only by 
commercial men, but by the community of Pennsylvania generally. Upon 
the history of the contractions and expansions of the currency, from this last 
named period until the present time, which have exerted a most potent influ- 
ence, not only upon the commerce of this State but on that of the world, 
our limits preclude us from entering. 

On the restoration of peace, in 1815, the foreign trade of Pennsylvania 
had to seek new channels. The great European powers, being now at 
peace, turned their attention to the encouragement and protection of their 
own commerce and navigation. The carrying trade between colonies and 
their parent states, which had given employment to so much Pennsylvania 
tonnage, was now, of course, confined to vessels of the nation owning the 
colonies ; and in the case of the British West India islands, the direct 
trade between the United States and them, was laid under such restrictions 
as to confine it almost exclusively to British ships as carriers. 

The commercial regulations established by foreign governments since 
this period have exerted a powerful influence on tHe foreign trade of the 
State, by laying such heavy duties on her exports as to hmit or prohibit 
their consumption ; but a mere allusion to the various operations of these 
would far exceed our limits. 

Another source of injury to the foreign trade has been the frequent change 
in th.e tariffs laid by the United States' government: and probably the de- 
triment to the commercial and manufacturing interests, arising from this 
frequent fluctuation, may be considered as greater than that produced by 
the imposition of a high protective duty on the one hand ; or a low duty, le- 
vied r^srely to defray the expenses of government, without regard to the 
protection of American manufactures, on the other. 

The tariff of 1816 levied duties, avowedly for the purpose of protecting 
American manufactures. In 1818 and in 1824 changes were made lessen- 
ing these rates. In 1828, the duties on articles constituting the principal 



140 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

manufactures of the Union were increased ; in 1832 again reduced ; but 
were still so obnoxious to one of the states of the confederacy, as to induce 
her to threaten to nullify the acts of the general government. In the fol- 
lowing year, the famous compromise act was passed, gradually reducing 
the rates of the high protective duties to a minimum rate in 1842. In 1841 
the duties were increased; in 1842 the finances of the general government 
rendered a further increase necessary, and, ere another year rolls past, it 
seems hkely that some further alteration will add its weight to the argu- 
ment, that the commercial policy of the United States is ceaseless change. 

Among the causes influencing the foreign trade we must now allude to 
one more local in its character than those above noted. Shortly after the 
restoration of peace, in 1815, the attention of many intelligent minds was 
directed to the improvement of the means of internal communication with 
the great lakes and the valley of the Mississippi. The state of New York, 
by the completion of the Erie canal, in 1825, was the first state of the Union 
to carry out these schemes, and to reap her reward from the vast increase 
of her trade with the west. Pennsylvania shortly after embarked in a simi- 
lar enterprise, (see Article on Internal Improvements,) and Maryland was 
not slow to follow in her footsteps. Massachusetts more recently has put 
in her claim for a share of the trade with the west. Since the cost of trans- 
portation from an Atlantic port to a place of consumption in the west is as 
essentially a part of the cost of the merchandise to the consumer as its 
original cost on the seaboard, it is a truth self-evident, that no commercial 
emporium, depending for its prosperity upon such trade, can continue long 
to thrive, after a rival city has opened with the country whose trade is sought, 
a communication by means of which the cost of transportation is ma- 
terially reduced. This simple truth it was that led to the construction of 
the various fines of internal improvements, connecting Philadelphia, Balti- 
more, and Boston with the west. 

That Pennsylvania and Philadelphia have not derived nearly so great a 
benefit in their trade with the west, from the construction of these internal 
improvements, as has accrued to the state and city of New York, we ap- 
prehend no one will doubt ; nor, unless the cost of transportation on the 
Pennsylvania works can be put at an equally low rate with that on those 
of the neighbouring states, can it be doubted, that Philadelphia must take 
her rank amongst the great manufacturing, rather than the commercial 
cities of the Union. 

In concluding this historical sketch of the foreign trade of Pennsylvania, 
we append a tabular statement exhibiting its condition, along with that of 
the foreign trade of the United States, as shown by the exports at three 
several periods : first, for five years previous to the long embargo ; second- 
ly, for five years subsequent to the late war ; and thirdly, for five years 
from 1837 to 1841. 

Aggregate Exports from Pennsylvania to Foreign countries. 

Estiin.pop.Estim.pop. 

5 years. Domestic. Foreign. Total. Year. of Philad. of Penn. 

1803 to 1807 ^31,140,096 $45,617,469 $66,757,565 1805 78,000 700,000 

1816 to 1820 20,938,791 15,789,786 36,728,577 1818 105,000 1,000,000 

1837 .to 1841 19,336,785 5,254,023 24,590,811 1839 222,000 1,684,000 

Aggregate Exports from the United States. 

Estim^ pop. 

5 years. Domestic. Foreign. Total. Year. ofthetf.S. 

1803 to 1807 $216,013,759 $222,931,482 $438,945,241 1805 6.200,000 

1816 to 1820 309,610,311 93,097,0.33 402,707,344 1818 9,100,000 

1837 to 1841 515,410,482 85,461,675 600,872,157 1839 16,600,000 

By the above statements it appears that the exports of the produce of the 
United States from Pennsylvania were less in the last than in either of the 
former periods, while the exports of domestic goods from the United States 
have been steadily and rapidly increasing. In the re-exportation of foreign 
goods the faUing off is much greater. 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 



141 



The subjoined statement of exports and imports at Philadelphia, (through 
which passes the whole foreign trade of the State, excepting a very small 
trade at Presque Isle,) for the fiscal year 1842, shows a still further decline. 



1. British West Indies 

2. England . 

3. Spanish West Indies . 

4. Brazil 

5. British Am. Colonies . 

6. Buenos Ayres . 

7. Colombian ports . 

8. Danish W. Indies . 

9. Hanse Towns 

10. Br. and Dutch E. Indies 

11. Sicily .... 

12. ChiU 

13. Hayti .... 

14. Italy 

15. Swedish West Indies . 

16. Gibraltar . 

17. Holland 

18. Africa 

19. Trieste and Adriatic . 

20. France on Atlantic . 

21. Texas 

22. French West Indies . 

23. Mexico 

24. TenerifFe and Canaries 


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England 

Spanish West Indies 

Brazil 

Colombian ports 

Hanse Towns 

Buenos Ayres . 

Spain on Mediterranean 

Hayti . . . 

France on Atlantic 

Danish West Indies . 

Italy .... 

British Am. Colonies 

Holland 

British West Indies . 

Chih .... 

Br. and Dutch E. Indies 

Mexico 

Sicily 

TenerifFe and Canaries 

Azores 

Ireland 

Swedish West Indies 

Africa .... 

Portugal 

Gibraltar 


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Our limits preclude the specification of the articles forming the principal 
items of export and import to and from the several countries named. Of 
domestic exports, flour manufactured in Pennsylvania, Delaware and Ohio, 
forms by farthe largest item. Corn-meal, wheat and corn, from the two first 
named states, are also exported largely. Tobacco, cotton, pork, lard, naval 
stores, rice, bark, &c., from the western and southern states; fish, oil, sperm 
candles, cotton manufactures, &c., from the New England states ; manufac- 
tures of iron, refined sugar, soap and candles, manufactured tobacco, furni- 



142 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

ture and various other manufactures of Philadelphia ; lumber, butter, cheese, 
and numerous articles, the agricultural produce of Pennsylvania, compose 
the principal part of the remaining sum. The imports consist principally 
of manufactures of wool, iron and other metals, silk, cotton, hnen, &c., 
from England and continental Europe ; coffee, sugar, molasses, rum, 
hides, mahogany, dye-woods, manufactured tobacco, &c., from South 
America and the West Indies. 

The total exports in 1842 exceed those of only three years since 1803, 
omitting the period of the war with Great Britain. The exports of domes- 
tic produce in 1842 exceed those of seventeen years during the same 
period. The imports for 1842 are less in amount than those of any year 
since 1821, when official records of value were first made. 

The domestic trade. The Constitution of the United States, as before 
mentioned, prohibits all transit duties on goods passing from one state of 
the Union to another, and releases vessels employed in the coasting trade 
from the necessity of enteri7ig. By this wise provision for the extension 
of trade, custom-houses between the different states are rendered unneces- 
sary, and those on the seaboard, or at the great comraercial emporiums of 
the interior, take no account of the merchandise passing from one section 
of the Union to another. In the absence of official data as to the extent 
of this important branch of trade, we purpose giving a hasty sketch of its 
course, or the channels through which it flows. 

With the increase of population and of facilities for the transportation of 
merchandise, by the improvement of county roads, and the construction of 
turnpike roads, canals and rail roads, the interchange of commodities with 
neighbouring states has steadily and rapidly increased ; while the applica- 
tion of steam to river navigation has rendered doubly valuable the noble 
streams of Pennsylvania, as a means of extending her commercial opera- 
tions. By these various channels of trade, and by the waters of the 
Atlantic, together with those of the various navigable streams emptying 
into it, the produce of the State, to an amount far exceeding that exported 
to foreign countries, is distributed through a large portion ot the Union. 

The domestic trade of Northern Pennsylvania is very limited in its ex- 
tent, this region being but thinly populated : its principal exports are lum- 
ber, coal, oats and neat cattle, together with some wool and butter. By 
means of the port of Erie or Presque Isle a communication is opened be- 
tween the western part of this region and the great lakes, and trade is carried 
on with many of the towns on their shores. The tonnage of Presque Isle 
has been as follows, in the years 1832 to 1841 inclusive. 



Year. 


Tons. 


Year. 


Tons. 


Year. 


Tons. 


Year. 


Tons. 


1832 


967 


1835 


1,730 


1838 


3,216 


1841 


2,820 


1833 


981 


1836 


1,877 


1839 


3,632 






1834 


1,302 


1837 


2,993 


1840 


3,369 







The Blossburg and Corning railroad, the Allegheny and Susquehanna 
rivers, and the turnpike and county roads, at wide intervals traversing this 
section of the State, facilitate interchange of commodities with the neigh- 
bouring counties and some of the large towns, in the interior of New York 
state. No inconsiderable portion of the produce of the western part of this 
region passes down the Allegheny river to the towns bordering on the 
Ohio river, although a much larger part finds a market at Pittsburg. 
From the head waters of the Susquehanna river large quantities of lumber 
are annually sent to Baltimore. 

The imports of this region, excepting the large supplies derived by in- 
ternal trade with Pittsburg, are principally from New York city and state, 
and are similar in character to those hereafter mentioned as taken by the 
north-eastern section of the State. 

Western Pennsylvania, with its coal, iron, flour, wheat, lumber, wool 
and manufactures of various kinds which are exported to a great amount, 
has access to the interior of Ohio and to the lakes, by means of the Penn- 
sylvania and Ohio or Cross-cut canal and the Sandy and Beaver canal ; by 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 



143 



the National road to Wheeling on the one hand, and Baltimore on the 
other; by the internal improvements of the State to the city last named, or 
via Philadelphia, to ports on the Atlantic ; and by the Ohio river to all 
parts of the valley of the Mississippi. 

Pittsburg, the great manufacturing chy and commercial emporium of 
western Pennsylvania, sends her manufactures of iron, glass, cotton, &c., 
throughout the vast extent of country bordering on the Ohio and Missis- 
sippi rivers, as well as to the rapidly improving region extending along the 
lakes. In return are received drafts on the Atlantic cities or New Orleans, 
or the varied produce of the several states, viz : pork, beef, lard, butter, 
flour, hemp, tobacco, cotton, sugar, molasses, (fee. ; together with a large 
part of her supply of coffee, imported at New Orleans. A portion of the 
above named articles, as pork, lard, flour, hemp and tobacco, is re-exported 
from Pittsburg to Baltimore ; and a still larger portion finds a market in 
Philadelphia, for home consumption or exportation. With the proceeds 
of the sales of these articles, and of large quantities of flour and wool, the 
produce of western Pennsylvania; together with drafts on the Atlantic 
cities received from sales to the west, she purchases in the Atlantic cities, 
for the consumption of her own citizens or the supply of a large extent of 
country in western Pennsylvania and Ohio, the cotton, woollen and leather 
manufactures, the bonnets, and other articles the manufactures of New 
England; and various foreign imports ; e. g., manufactures of wool, silk, 
cotton, linen, steel and other metals ; porcelain and earthern wares, tea, 
spices, dried fruit, wine, brandy, &c. 

Annexed is the tonnage of the port of Pittsburg in the years 1832 to 
1841 inclusive. The sudden reduction observable in some of the years 
may be accounted for by the sale of steamboats, great numbers of which 
are built here for towns on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. 



Year. Tons. I Year. Tons. 

1832 10,092 1835 13,272 

1833 11,713 1836 10,767 

1834 13,272 | 1837 12,652 



Year. Tons. 

1838 11,865 

1839 11,865 

1840 12,000 



Year, 
1841 



Tons. 
10,343 



According to Harris' Directory, the number of steamboats owned, in 
whole or in part, in the district of Pittsburg, in 1841, was 89, of an aggre- 
gate tonnage of 12,436 tons. 

Southern Pennsylvania, whose exports consist principally of grain, flour, 
iron, leather, &:-c., finds a market for a large part of these in Baltimore, 
and the neighbouring counties of Maryland and Virginia. The National 
road, connecting with the internal improvements of Maryland, opens a 
communication between Baltimore and the western part of this region ; 
while the eastern portion sends its produce by the Baltimore and Susque- 
hanna or FrankUn railroads, or by several turnpikes, into Maryland; or 
by the internal improvements of Pennsylvania and the Susquehanna river, 
or Tide-water canal to Baltimore, or more largely to Philadelphia for ex- 
portation or home consumption. In return are received goods of a descrip- 
tion similar to those above mentioned as purchased in the Atlantic cities for 
Pittsburg. 

Central Pennsylvania, embracing the greater part of the valley of the 
Susquehanna ana the country bordering on the main line of the internal 
improvements of the State, west of the Susquehanna river, makes use of 
this river and these canals and railroads, together with the Tide-water 
canal, as outlets for its large exports. A market is found for its produce, 
consisting of wheat and other grains, flour, iron, lumber, coal, &c., at 
Baltimore, and to a greater extent, probably, via Philadelphia, at the va- 
rious other Atlantic ports. The goods imported are of a character similar 
to those taken by Pittsburg. 

North Eastern Pennsylvania, embracing a portion of the anthracite coal 
fields of the State, exports lumber and some agricultural produce, princi- 
pally oats, to the neighboring towns of New York and New Jersey ; neat 
cattle and butter also to the same markets, and to New York city ; and 



144 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

coal in large quantities to New York city and intermediate places, and to 
the Atlantic New England states. The principal channels for its exports, 
which are moderate in amount, are the Lehigh river, the Delaware and 
Hudson canal, and several turnpike roads. In return, articles such as 
enumerated as taken by Pittsburg, excluding the more expensive and luxu- 
rious, are received from New York city. 

South Eastern Pennsylvania — embracing the earhest settled and most 
populous counties of the State, rich in agricultural products; together with 
other counties, abounding in anthracite coal and iron, — passes most of its 
exports through Philadelphia. 

New York and the New England states bordering on the Atlantic take 
the largest amount of this produce, consisting principally of coal, flour, 
wheat, corn, &c. The demand for Pennsylvania bread stuffs in Boston 
has, however, diminished since the completion of the railroad connecting 
it with Albany. 

In return Philadelphia receives from the New England states their 
manufactures of cotton and wool, shoes, bonnets, fish, oil, and various 
other articles, the produce or manufactures of these states ; together with 
many foreign goods: and from New York, English, French, Chinese, and 
various other foreign goods too numerous to specify : the balance being 
greatly against Philadelphia, both in her trade with New England and New 
York. 

To the neighbouring states of New Jersey and Delaware the exports are 
to a large amount, consisting of coal, lime, iron, and various manufactures 
of Pennsylvania ; and the manufactures and produce of the New England 
states and foreign countries generally, especially manufactures of cotton, 
wool, leather and iron ; sugar, coffee and tea. 

The imports from New Jersey consist of agricultural produce generally ; 
and those from Delaware, of flour, corn-meal, wheat, corn, bark, &c. 

The trade with Maryland is to a very limited extent, and similar in its 
character to that with Delaware, Most of the freight passing between 
Philadelphia and Baltimore consists of goods in transitu between the lat- 
ter city and New York, or the New England states. 

The exports from Philadelphia to Virginia are to a moderate amount, 
and consist of articles much the same as those specified in reference to 
Pittsburg. In return, tobacco, wheat, corn, and some bituminous coal and 
cotton yarn are received. 

To North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama, the exports 
are similar in character to those sent to Virginia ; but to a very small 
amount. From North Carolina are received naval stores, lumber and 
some little cotton and cotton yarn ; from South Carohna and Georgia, cot- 
ton and rice ; and from Alabama, cotton. 

Louisiana takes to a moderate extent, for her own consumption, of the 
manufactures of the New England states and Pennsylvania, and the manu- 
factures and produce of foreign countries ; and sends to Philadelphia large 
quantities of sugar and molasses, and some cotton, her own produce. 
Large quantities of heavy goods, destined for the western States, are for- 
warded by way of New Orleans ; and by the same route Philadelphia re- 
ceives large suppHes of the produce of those states, viz.: cotton, tobacco, 
pork, lard, hemp, lead, &c. 

The most important branch of the domestic export trade of Philadelphia 
is that with Ohio, Kentucky, Missouri, Tennessee, Indiana, Illinois, Mis- 
sissippi, and Arkansas, especially the sLx first named, and consists of articles 
similar to those taken by Pittsburg, the principal portion being imports from 
the New England states, and from foreign countries, a large part of the 
latter, as before stated, being received via New York and Boston. 

In addition to the articles above enumerated as being forwarded by way 
of New Orleans, Philadelphia receives from this vast and fertile region, 
now rapidly filling with an enterprising and industrious population, large 
quantities of flour, pork, lard, tobacco, hemp, neat cattle and horses, and 
some beef, furs, wool, &c., via Pittsburg and the internal improvements 



TRADE AND COMMERCE. 



145 



of the state ; these, however, would be vastly greater in quantity, and the 
purchases of goods in return proportionally increased, if the cost of trans- 
portation from Pittsburg to Philadelphia were still further reduced. The 
balance of this great branch of her trade being in favor of Philadelphia, 
is paid by drafts on New Orleans and New York. 

With Michigan, Philadelphia has little or no trade. 

Annexed is a statement of the enrolled and Ucensed tonnage, being that 
engaged in the coasting trade of Philadelphia for the years 1832 to 1841. 
Years. Tons. Years. Tons. Years. Tons. Years. Tons. 

1841 58,425 

We also append a list of the coastwise arrivals at Philadelphia for the 
years 1787 to 1842, much the greater portion of the large number appearing 
m recent years being vessels engaged in carrying coal, or barges laden with 
merchandise, passing between the north-eastern and south-western markets 
of the Union, benefiting the mercantile community of Philadelphia but httle. 

Coastwise Arrivals at Philadelphia from 1787 to 1842, inclusive. 

[From the Commercial List and Philadelphia Price Current.] 



1832 


31,147 


1835 


34,857 


1838 


45,080 


1833 


30,529 


1836 


40,871 


1839 


48,293 


1834 


32,080 


1837 


42,592 


1840 


51,676 



Years. 


Vessels. 


Years. 


Vessels. 


Years. 


Vessels, 


Years. 


Vessels. 


1787 


390 


1801 


1,125 


1815 


1,113 


1829 


2,210 


1788 


490 


1802 


1,106 


1816 


1,101 


1830 


3,287 


1789 


376 


1803 


1,064 


1817 


1,238 


1831 


3,262 


1790 


715 


1804 


1,292 


1818 


1,101 


1832 


2,849 


1791 


853 


1805 


1,235 


1819 


1,046 


1833 


2,573 


1792 


C doc's. 
i lost. 


1806 


1,213 


1820 


877 


1834 


2,686 


1793 


1807 


1,170 


1821 


913 


1835 


3,573 


1794 


1,250 


1808 


1,951 


1822 


1,212 


1836 


3,764 


1795 


1,228 


1809 


1,683 


1823 


1,018 


1837 


7,776 


1796 


1,011 


1810 


1,477 


1824 


981 


1838 


10,860 


1797 


929 


1811 


1,425 


1825 


1,195 


1839 


11,188 


1798 


1,002 


1812 


1,549 


1826 


1,195 


1840 


9,706 


1799 


825 


1813 


319 


1827 


1,320 


1841 


11,738 


1800 


1,051 


1814 


583 


1828 


1,247 [ 


1842 


10,457 



We close this imperfect sketch of the domestic trade of Pennsylvania 
(which, unhke the foreign trade, has been steadily increasing, and is des- 
tined to still more rapid improvement,) by giving the following statement of 

The Enrolled and Licensed Tonnage of Pennsylvania from 1789 
to 1841, inclusive. 



Years. 


Tons. 


Years. 


Tons. 


Years. 


Tons. 


Years. 


Tons. 


1789 


4,015 


1802 


8,951 


1815 


22,360 


1828 


37,775 


1790 


5,180 


1803 


9,855 


1816 


24,744 


1829 


27,494 


1791 


3,222 


1804 


9,995 


1817 


24,296 


1830 


24,236 


1792 


3,515 


1805 


11,000 


1818 


25,148 


1831 


29,225 


1793 


4,625 


1806 


10,297 


1819 


23,673 


1832 


42,206 


1794 


6,273 


1807 


11,440 


1820 


24,117 


1833 


43.223 


1795 


7,325 


1808 


14,671 


1821 


25,080 


1834 


46,653 


1796 


7,669 


1809 


14,922 


1822 


23,995 


1835 


49,860 


1797 


8,178 


1810 


15,803 


1823 


27,291 


1836 


53,514 


1798 


8,348 


1811 


17,164 


1824 


27,766 


1837 


58,237 


1799 


7,857 


1812 


17,502 


1825 


29,421 


1838 


60,161 


1800 


8,032 


1813 


20,247 


1826 


31,583 


1839 


63,790 


1801 


7,444 


1814 


20,407 


1827 


34,436 


1840 
1841 


67,045 
71,588 



13 



146 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The internal trade. In the preceding article, on the course of the 
domestic trade of Pennsylvania, allusion has been made to the extent of 
business between Philadelphia and Pittsburg-, and between those two 
cities and a large portion of the State. This forms but a very small part 
of the internal trade of Pennsylvania, which embraces all the interchanges 
between sections adjacent, or widely separated, of every variety of mer- 
chandise, the produce of agriculture, the mine or the forest; or the manu- 
facture of the factory or work-shop. Of its amount no other than a 
very vague estimate can be formed ; it, however, vastly exceeds both that 
of the domestic and of the foreign trade, although it may be said to be yet 
in its infancy. 

No state of the Union contains the elements of wealth more diversified 
in character or unlimited in extent than Pennsylvania ; and with a virtuous, 
intelligent and industrious population to develope the resources of her rich 
and varied soil and countless mineral treasures, she cannot tail, in time, to 
possess within her borders a manufacturing interest, equal, if not superior 
to the agricultural. A home market for her agricultural produce will thus 
be created ; while her exports will consist of manufactures sent to the 
western and southern states of the Union, and, probably in considerable 
quantities to foreign countries. This anticipated developement of the in- 
ternal trade of Pennsylvania must be promoted, in no small degree, by the 
State canals, railroads and other facilities for the transportation of produce, 
in the judicious management of which, those engaged in the domestic and 
foreign, as well as this branch of trade, have a deep interest. 

What meaning have the terms foreign, domestic, and internal as applied to the trade of 
Pennsylvania? What is said about the Free Society of Traders? What quantity of tobacco 
was exported in 1688-9? Why was its culture abandoned? What is said about the effect 
of the war between England and France, on the commerce and currency of the province ? 
Did the province in any one year prior to the revolution export to Great Britain a sufficient 
amount of her produce to pay for the goods imported thence? How was tiie balance paid? 
What injury was inflicted ou the commerce of the province by the war from 1702 to 1713.' 
For what was the year 1722 remarkable ? In what year was paper money first issued by the 
province ? Was Franklin favourable to these issues? In what year was the first insolvent 
law of Pennsylvania passed? What occurred to alarm the Philadelphians in 1748? What 
effect on the commerce of the province had the restoration of peace in 1749? How long did 
this prosperous state of trade continue ? What is said of the voyage of the schooner Argo ' 
What influence did the seven years' war exert on the commerce of the province ? What led 
to the non-importation agreements in 1765 and 1769? What was their effect on commerce ? 
From the nature of the foreign trade of the province before the revolutionary war, have we 
any reason to regret the separation of our country from the British empire ? During what pe- 
riod was the foreign trade suspended by the revolutionary war ? Was commerce in a prospe- 
rous state from the establishment of peace in 1783 until 1789? Did the adoption of the consti- 
tution of the United States in 1789 produce any change? Can you tell how, or why? Did the 
•wars occasioned by the French revolution exert any influence on the commerce of Pennsyl- 
vania ? How ? What was the avowed purpose of the English in issuing their orders in coun- 
cil, mii the French their rfecrees? What compensation did England agree to make the 
United States by treaty in 1794, for property taken under these orders in council? During 
what period were commercial relations between France and the United States suspended? 
What was the object of jVapoleon's continental systeml What induced the United States 
government to lay an embargo? What was the duration of the ^ong embargo? What is said 
about Napoleon's Piambouillet decree? When was war declared against England by the 
United States? What may be considered the main cause for the continuance of hostilities.'' 
What exerted a very prejudicial influence on commerce during the latter part of the war 
and for several years after ? What effect on the foreign trade of Pennsylvania had the resto- 
ration of peace in Europe and America in 1815? How have the commercial regulations of 
foreign governments influenced the commerce of the State? Have the frequent changes in 
the rates of duties levied by the United States' government benefited commerce? Has the 
cost of transportation of goods from a seaport to the interior of the country any influence on 
the commerce of that port? Is it not important then to Philadelphia that the rates of tolls 
on the rail- roads and canals of the State should be low? In how many years since 1803 
have the total exports from Pennsylvania been less than in the year 1842? (See tables.) In 
how many years since 1803 have the exports of domestic produce from Pennsylvania been 
less than in the year 1842? What is said of the amount of imports in 1842? 

May duties be charged on goods passing from one state of the Union to another? Which 
is the greater in amount, the foreign or domestic trade ? Is the trade of northern Pennsyl- 
vania extensive or limited ? What port, rail-road and rivers furnish outlets for its trade.' 
Is the trade of western Pennsylvania limited or extensive ? By means of what outlets is il» 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 147 

merchandise exported ? What is its great commercial city? By means of what outlets do 
the southern counties of Pennsylvania export their produce? Are the exports of central 
Pennsylvania extensive or limited in amount? By means of what river, canals, and rail 
roads is its produce exported ? What is said of the amount of exports from north-eastern 
Pennsylvania ? By what river and canal have they an outlet ? Through what channel 
does south-eastern Pennsylvania carry on most of its domestic trade ? Has the domestic 
trade of the State declined or progressively improved? 

What is said of the amount of the internal trade ? What of its future prospects ? The 
possession of what natural treasure is likely to increase the internal trade of the State? 
What else is mentioned as tending to increase this branch of trade ? 



19. Internal Improvements. 
1. Canals and rail roads constructed by the State. 

The attention of the legislature and people of Pennsylvania 
seems to have been directed, at an early day, to the means of facili- 
tating transportation and trade between different sections of the 
State by means of inland navigation. In 1791 a report was made 
by a committee of the legislature, recommending the improvement 
of the Delaware, Lehigh and Lackawana rivers ; a canal from 
the Schuylkill to the Susquehanna by way of the Tulpehocken 
and Swatara; the improvement of the Susquehanna, with its 
north and west branches, and a connexion by way of the Sinne- 
mahoning between the West branch of Susquehanna and the Al- 
legheny river and Lake Erie. A portage connexion was also 
proposed from the head waters of the Juniata to those of the Co- 
nemaugh, in order to form a communication from the Susque- 
hanna to Pittsburg. As rail roads were not then thought of, it 
was proposed to connect the canals by means of good turnpike 
roads across the dividing summits. 

Nothing, however, was effectually done by the State on the 
subject of internal improvements until 1824, v^^hen an act was 
passed authorizing the governor to appoint three commissioners 
to explore a route for a canal from Harrisburg to Pittsburg, by the 
waters of the Juniata and Conemaugh rivers ; and also the route 
for a connexion by way of the West branch of Susquehanna and 
Sinnemahoning, with the waters of the Allegheny river. An ex- 
amination of the country between the Schuylkill and Susquehanna, 
through the great valley of Chester and Lancaster counties, was 
also directed ; together with a route '' beginning at a point on the 
river Schuylkill in the county of Schuylkill, thence by Mahanoy 
creek, the river Susquehanna, the Moshannon, Clearfield and 
Black Lick creeks, the Conemaugh, Kiskiminetas and Allegheny 
river to Pittsburg." 

In 1825 an act was passed authorizing the appointment of a 
board of canal commissioners, and directing the following addi- 
tional surveys to be made : '' one from Philadelphia through Ches- 
ter and Lancaster counties, and thence by the West branch of the 
Susquehanna and the waters thereof to the Allegheny and Pitts- 
burg ; also from the Allegheny to Lake Erie; one other from 
Philadelphia by the Juniata to Pittsburg, and from thence to Lake 



148 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Erie; one other from the city of Philadelphia to the northern 
boundary of the State towards the Seneca or Cayuga lake ; one 
other through Cumberland and Franklin counties to the Potomac 
river; and one by the Conecocheague_, or Monococy and Cone- 
wago to the Susquehanna." A survey was also directed, by the 
same act, to be made through the county of Bedford, to connect 
the route of the proposed Chesapeake and Ohio canal with the 
Juniata route. 

By the act of 25th February, 1826, operations were no longer 
confined to the exploration of routes and preliminary surveys. 
The canal commissioners were directed to locate and put under 
contract a canal on the east side of the Susquehanna river, from 
the mouth of the Swatara to a point opposite the mouth of the 
Juniata ; and one from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Kiskiminetas ; 
thus commencing two sections of the main line of communication 
from Philadelphia to Pittsburg. They were also authorized, as 
soon as they might deem it practicable and expedient, to construct 
a navigable feeder of a canal from French creek to the summit 
level at Conneaut lake, and to survey and locate a route for a 
canal from that to Lake Erie. 

In order to sustain the credit of the commonwealth, an internal 
improvement fund was established (April 1, 1826) under the con- 
trol of the secretary of the commonwealth, the auditor general and 
the state treasurer, as commissioners ; which fund was specific- 
ally appropriated, pledged and set apart for the purpose of paying 
the interest and reimbursing the principal of the State debt which 
might be created in consequence of the construction of the canals 
and public improvements : the accounts of the fund to be kept 
separate from the other public accounts. This fund consists of the 
tolls received on all the public works, the auction duties, the net 
proceeds of all escheats, and the dividends on road, canal and bridge 
stocks owned by the State. By subsequent enactments the tax on 
collateral inheritances, taxes on certain property, and sundry other 
appropriations were added to the fund. 

In 1827 (act of April 9) the construction of a canal up the Ju- 
niata as far as Lewistown ; another up the Kiskiminetas and 
Conemaugh to Blairsville, and one up the Susquehanna to North- 
umberland were duly authorized. By the same act, surveys were 
directed to be made of the route across the Allegheny mountain 
from FrankstOAvn oathe Juniata to Johnstown on the Conemaugh, 
with a view of determining whether the portage should be by " a 
smooth and permanent road of easy graduation, or by a rail way 
with locomotive and stationary engines or otherwise." Surveys 
were also authorized between the West branch and the Allegheny 
river ; up the North branch from Northumberland to the State line, 
and from Pittsburg to Erie by the route of Beaver and Shenango. 
By the same act a survey for a rail road was directed to be made 
from Philadelphia, through Chester and Lancaster counties to the 
Susquehanna, and also one to ascertain the practicability of con- 
necting the North branch of the Susquehanna and Lehigh rivers 
by a canal or rail way. A survey was also authorized for the 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 149 

purpose of extending the canal down the Susquehanna, from the 
mouth of Swatara to the Maryland line. The commencement of 
operations on the construction of the French creek feeder (to Con- 
neaut lake) was ordered, and further surveys directed to be made 
from Conneaut to Lake Erie. The canal commissioners were 
instructed to have surveys made for a canal from Philadelphia or 
Bristol, up the valley of the Delaware to Carpenter's Point ; and 
if the same were found practicable, to locate and contract for the 
construction of such portion of it as should not exceed the cost of 
one hundred thousand dollars, provided that the average expense 
thereof should not exceed twelve thousand dollars per mile. 

The act of 24th March, 1828, authorized the extension of the 
canal on the Susquehanna, from the mouth of Swatara to Colum- 
bia; from Lewistown to HoUidaysburg on the Juniata; from 
Northumberland along the West branch of Susquehanna to Bald 
Eagle ; from Northumberland to the New York State line, on the 
North branch ; from Taylor's ferry to Easton, on the Delaware ; 
and from Blairsville to Johnstown on the Conemaugh. The con- 
struction of the Allegheny portage rail road, and the Philadelphia 
and Columbia rail road was ordered ; and sundry preliminary 
surveys of other lines of proposed improvements were directed. 

The construction of the main lines of communication being thus 
resolved upon, the work was commenced and vigorously pushed 
forward. The credit of the State being at that time unimpaired 
and money abundant, the legislature found little or no difficulty 
in obtaining the requisite funds for the prosecution of the work. 
Public opinion was strongly in favour of an extended system of 
internal improvement ; and it was believed that the estabhshment 
of a communication between the eastern and western waters of the 
State and the lakes, would be the means of advancing the pros- 
perity of our agriculture, commerce and manufactures, and would 
unite in a common interest the great natural divisions of the State, 
as well as in the end prove an important source of revenue to the 
commonwealth. 

If the system of public works undertaken had been less exten- 
sive in the beginning, and had been confined at first to the main 
line between Philadelphia and Pittsburg, with the addition of the 
Delaware division ; and these had been constructed with a strict 
regard to the public interest alone, and managed afterwards with 
prudence and economy, the favourable anticipations of the people 
would doubtless have been realized. But in order to obtain votes 
in the legislature for the commencement of the main lines, it was 
deemed expedient to push the improvements into every practicable 
part of the State, that as many as possible should partake of the 
expected benefit. The consequence has been the lavish expendi- 
ture of millions on lines as yet unproductive; while a system of 
management directed by party politics, and the employment of 
countless swarms of public agents as a reward for political ser- 
vices, without due regard to their character or qualifications, have 
not only absorbed the whole revenue derived from the finished 

13* 



150 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

lines, but have brought the State annually in debt for their main- 
tenance. 

From 1828 to 1836 repeated loans were authorized and heavy 
appropriations made for the prosecution of the public works to 
completion. Not content, however, with the enormous amount 
already undertaken, new surveys were directed and the com- 
mencement of further extensions ordered. Among these was " a 
rail road from the borough of Gettysburg, to cross the route of the 
Baltimore and Ohio rail road, and connect with the Chesapeake 
and Ohio canal at some point in the State of Maryland at or west 
of Williamsport." Two hundred thousand dollars were appro- 
priated for the commencement of this work, which was imme- 
diately begun. 

This career of lavish expenditure and continual extension was 
at length checked. The alarming increase of the State debt, the 
enormous excess in the cost ot completing many of the works 
above the estimates of the engineers, and the failure of the finished 
lines to support by their tolls the annual charges on them for re- 
pairs and expenses, became subjects for serious consideration. 
Those who had from the first doubted the expediency of under- 
taking such a gigantic scale of improvement, became decidedly 
hostile to the further extension of the system, while its warmest 
advocates were discouraged at the prospect before them. The 
public voice called for a retrenchment of expenditures, and the 
operations were prosecuted on a reduced scale. The work on 
some of the lines was suspended, and was only continued on those 
which were necessary to complete certain connexions, or those 
which were deemed Ukely to afford immediate advantage from 
completion. 

The present deranged condition of the State finances, and the 
litter prostration of the credit of the commonwealth have now put 
a stop to the further prosecution of the pubHc works. The time 
has come for serious consideration upon the means of extricating 
Pennsylvania from her present embarrassed condition. No remedy 
can be devised but that of taxing the people ; and even taxation, 
so long as the public improvements are so managed as not to sus- 
tain themselves, will be ineffectual unless increased from year to 
year. A more economical superintendence of our canals and rail 
roads, or their transfer from the State to individuals or companies, 
seems to be imperatively demanded by the pubUc interest. By 
such a transfer, on fair terms and under proper regulations, the 
State would be at once reheved from a heavy burden, while the 
people would still have the use and advantage of the pubhc im- 
provements as fully as at present. 

But notwithstanding the present gloomy prospect of our finan- 
cial affairs, and the heavy debt incurred by the commonwealth in 
the construction of her rail roads and canals, it should not be for- 
gotten that the advantages to the people in the increased value of 
their property and the creation of facilities for trade and transpor- 
tation, together with the expenditure among them of large sum? 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 151 

of public money, have far more than counterbalanced the burden 
of moderate taxation. Without the means of transportation on 
the pubhc works, our agricultural, commercial, manufacturing 
and mineral resources would never have been developed as they 
now are ; and the countless millions gained by the people, through 
the establishment of the public improvements, would cause the 
pubhc debt to sink into insignificance if compared with the value 
of the advantages resulting from them. 

In order to contrast the former times and faciUties with the pre- 
sent, it may be mentioned that before turnpikes were constructed 
it required a good team of five or six horses from eighteen to 
twenty-five days to transport from 2,500 to 3,500 pounds of goods 
from Philadelphia to Pittsburg. On the completion of the turnpike 
across the mountains, the load of a wagon was increased to 6,000 
or 8,000 pounds, and the trip was made in twelve or fifteen days. 
The price of carriage varied from three or four to thirteen cents 
per pound, the latter being paid for several loads soon after the 
peace with Great Britain. Since the construction of our rail roads 
and canals, any quantity of merchandise and produce can be 
transported between Pittsburg and Philadelphia, Baltimore or New 
York in six or seven days, at an average price, each way, of less 
than one dollar per 100 pounds, or one cent per pound; and the 
passage for travellers by canal and rail roads between Pittsburg 
and these cities is now made in two, three or four days, at less 
than half the former expense by the stage. 

It is not, however, in the construction of canals and rail roads 
alone that the funds of the State have been invested. Extensive 
appropriations have been made towards improving the navigable 
channels of many of our rivers and large streams ; to the making 
of roads and the building of bridges; while subscriptions have 
been liberally made on the part of the commonwealth to the stock 
of rail road, navigation, turnpike and bridge companies. From 
many of these little or no dividend is received, but still the people 
have the benefit of their use. 

State Canals.-^ The Delaware Division of the Pennsylvania 
Canal connects with tide water at Bristol on the river Delaware, 
20 miles above Philadelphia, and thence extends up the course of 
that river to Easton at the mouth of the Lehigh, where it joins 
the navigation of the Lehigh Company. It is 40 feet wide, 5 feet 
deep, and has 23 locks 90 feet long by 11 feet wide, from 6 to 10 
feet in height : total lockage 164 feet. Length of canal 60 miles : 
cost $1,374,744. Total revenue to 1840, $586,515 : expenditures 
to same time $638,831.* 

Eastern Division. — This canal commences at Columbia, the 
western termination of the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road, 
and extends along the eastern bank of the Susquehanna river to 

* The revenue is the amount of tolls received up to the year 1840 ; and 
the expenditures are made up of repairs, salaries of agents and other ex- 
penses necessarily attendant upon the operation of the works to the same 
period. 



152 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Middletown, where the Union Canal is connected with it, and 
where there are also outlet locks into the Susquehanna. Prom 
this place it still pursues the eastern side of the Susquehanna, 
passes through Harrisburg, and continues to Duncan's Island, 
near the mouth of the Juniata, where it connects with the Juniata 
division, and also with the Susquehanna division of the State 
canals. It is 40 feet wide at top, 28 at bottom, and has locks 90 
feet long and 17 wide ; the total rise is 95 feet. Length 43 miles ; 
cost $1,734,958. Revenue to 1840, $1,047,826 j expenditures, 
$422,805. 

Juniata Division. — At Duncan's Island is a dam across the Sus- 
quehanna for the purpose of supplying the eastern division with 
water, and a neat and substantial bridge has been erected by the 
State, having on one side a tow path, by means of which canal 
boats cross to the western side of the river. Here the Juniata 
division commences, and continues up the valley of the Juniata 
to Hollidaysburg in Huntingdon county, where it meets the eastern 
termination of the Allegheny Portage rail road. There are 17 
dams on this route, and about 16 miles of slack water navigation. 
The canal is of the same dimensions as the eastern division ; the 
locks are of the same length and 15 feet wide. Ascent of lockage 
from Duncan's Island to Hollidaysburg 576 feet; distance 130 
miles; cost of canal $3,437,334. Revenue $491,104j expendi- 
tures $592,180. 

Susquehanna Division. — This canal connects with the Juniata 
division at Duncan's Island, and extends along the western bank 
of the Susquehanna, up that river to Northumberland at the junc- 
tion of the North and West branches, where it unites with the 
North and West branch divisions. Ascent 862 feet : length 39 
miles: cost $867,874. Revenue $141,730 ; expenditures $314,253. 

JVorth Branch Division. — Commencing at Northumberland, this 
canal follows the course of the North branch of Susquehanna to 
the mouth of Lackawana, in Luzerne county, above Wilkesbarre. 
There is a dam across the river at Nanticoke, and the upper end 
of the canal is supplied with water from the Lackawana. Lock 
chambers 17 by 90 feet: total lockage 112 feet: length 73 miles : 
cost $1,491,894. Revenue, $63,559 ; expenditures $390,624. 

JVorth Branch Extension. — This division is in an unfinished 
state : it was intended to effect a communication with the New 
York State improvements by connecting it with the Chenango 
canal, and thus to afford a northern outlet for the coal and iron of 
Pennsylvania into a region which might furnish salt and gypsum 
in return. From Lackawana it follows the course of the North 
branch to Athens in Bradford county, near the northern line of 
the state. The cost of work done on this Extension to December 
1, 1841, amounted to $2,348,276; estimated cost of work remaining 
to be done $1,298,416; total estimated cost $3,646,692. Length 
of canal 90 miles ; lockage 193 feet. 

West Branch Division. — Leaving the Susquehanna Division at 
Northumberland, this canal extends up the West branch of Sus- 
quehanna, passing by Milton, Williamsport and other towns, to 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 153 

Farrandsville, in Clinton county, reaching the bituminous coal 
region in that neighborhood. Ascent of lockage 138 feet; length 
of canal, including slack water, 75 miles; cost $1,708,579. Re- 
venue $60,859 ; expenditures $333,738. 

Two side cuts, or lateral canals, extend from the West branch 
Division : one to Lewisburg in Union county, about half a mile, 
and the other to Bald Eagle creek near Lock Haven in Clinton 
county, three and a half miles in length. 

The Sinnemahoning Extension is a continuation of the West 
branch canal to the mouth of Sinnemahoning creek, a distance of 
about 36 miles above Farrandsville. It is in an unfinished state, 
the work having been suspended in 1839. 

Wiconisco Canal. This is an unfinished work extending along 
the east bank of Susquehanna, from the dam at Clark's Ferry, near 
Duncan's Island, to Millersburg at the mouth of Wiconisco creek, 
a distance of twelve miles, with an ascent of 35 feet. Cost of work 
done, about $300,000; amount required to complete it $81,836. 
By an act passed July 13, 1842, this canal was transferred to an 
incorporated company, reserving the right to the State to reclaim it 
after twenty years, upon paying to the company the amount ex- 
pended by them in its completion. 

Western Division. At Johnstown, (the western termination of 
the Allegheny Portage rail road,) the Western Division of the canal 
commences and continues down the Conemaugh and Kiskiminetas 
to the Allegheny river. Crossing this river near the mouth of 
Kiskiminetas, the canal passes along its western bank to Alle- 
gheny city, opposite Pittsburg, where it again crosses by a beauti- 
ful aqueduct, and is continued through Pittsburg to the Mononga- 
hela river. There are ten dams on the route, and upwards of 
twenty miles of slack water navigation on their pools. Below 
Blairsville the canal passes through a tunnel eight hundred and 
seventeen feet in length. Descent by lockage 471 feet ; distance 
105 miles; cost $2,964,882. Revenue, $887,013; expenditures 
$889,834. 

The Beaver Division extends from the town of Beaver on the 
Ohio, up Beaver river to the Shenango, and thence up that stream 
to the head of slack water navigation, about six miles above New- 
castle. Length 31 miles: ascent 132 feet: cost about $700,000. 
Revenue $10,924; expenditures $139,082. 

At the mouth of Mahoning creek, a httle below Newcastle, this 
division is intersected by the Mahoning canal, which extends into 
Ohio, and at Akron intersects the Ohio and Erie canal of that 
State. The Beaver division is but a part of an extended hne of 
canal, intended to connect the Ohio river, by way of Conneaut 
lake, with lake Erie. 

The Ene Extension, an unfinished work, divided into the She- 
nango and Conneaut lines, commences at the head of the Beaver 
division above Newcastle, and extends northward to the town of 
Erie. The ascending lockage, from the Shenango pool near New- 
castle to the summit at Conneaut lake, is 287 feet ; and the descent 
thence to lake Erie, 510 feet. The level of Conneaut lake is 419 



154 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

feet above low water in the Ohio, at Beaver, and the surface of 
Lake Erie 91 feet lower than the Ohio. Length of the Erie Ex- 
tension 105 miles; cost of work done about $3,000,000. 

The French Creek Feeder, a navigable canal, 27 miles in length, 
extends from French creek above Meadville to the Erie Extension 
at Conneaut lake; and with this is connected the Franklin line, 
which reaches from the aqueduct, seven miles below Meadville, 
where the water in the feeder is on a level with Conneaut lake, 
to Franklin on the Allegheny river. Descent of lockage 128 feet : 
length 22 miles. Cost of canal and feeder about |900,000. Reve- 
nue $4,767; expenditures $133,979. 

Recent acts of the legislature have authorized the transfer of the 
North Branch and Erie Extensions, the latter including the Bea- 
ver division, to incorporated companies, for the purpose of having 
these works completed without further expense to the common- 
wealth. 

State rail roads. The Philadelphia and Columbia Rail 
Road commences at the intersection of Vine and Broad streets in 
Philadelphia, crosses the Schuylkill by a viaduct about two miles 
from the city, and pursues a western course by Downingtown and 
Lancaster to Columbia on the Susquehanna, a distance of 82 
miles. Here it connects with the Eastern Division of the Penn- 
sylvania canal. 

The Schuylkill viaduct is 984 feet in length, and besides the rail 
road track has also a way for carriages and foot passengers. Im- 
mediately west of this, the road ascends by an inclined plane 2,805 
feet in length, with a rise of 187 feet, on which cars ascend and 
descend at the same time by being attached to an endless rope 
moved by a stationary engine of 60 horse power, situated at the 
head of the plane. From this the road gradually ascends to a 
point near the intersection of the West Chester rail road, about 22 
miles from the city, where its elevation is 543 feet above tide wa- 
ter. Passing this summit, the road descends 293 feet to the Bran- 
dywine viaduct near Downingtown, at a grade of 29 feet to the 
mile. It then rises, and after crossing the West Brandywine near 
Coatesville, ascends the North Valley Hill, at Mine Ridge Gap, by 
a grade increased on both sides of the summit for about three 
quarters of a mile, to 45 feet per mile. From this summit the road 
descends into the Lancaster valley, — passes the city of Lancaster, 
and descends to the Susquehanna river by a new route of six 
miles, descent 35 feet per mile, constructed to avoid the inclined 
plane formerly used near Columbia. 

Some of the viaducts over the large streams crossed by this road 
are handsome and expensive structures, particularly those at Valley 
creek and West Brandywine : the latter is 835 feet in length, and 
72 feet above the water. Those over the Big and Little Conestoga 
creeks are respectively 1,412 and 804 feet long. The highest em- 
bankment is 80 feet, and the deepest cuttings from 30 to 40 feet. 

The motive power on this road is furnished by the State, and a 
toll is charged for it in addition to the road toU. The locomotive 
engines used for the transportation of freight, are capable of draw- 



I 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 155 

ing upwards of 100 tons each, exclusive of the weight of cars, en- 
gine, &c., or nearly 200 tons in aU, at an average speed of ten or 
twelve miles per hour. Those used for drawing the passenger 
cars move with a lighter load and greater velocity. 

This road was first opened for use in April, 1834. Cost $3,983, 
302. Revenue to 1840, railroad tolls |1,205,419, motive power 
tolls $824,919: expenditures, road $585,343, motive power $862, 
074, locomotives, ropes. Sec, $436,579. 

Allegheny Portage Rail Road. This road commences at HoUi- 
daysburg, the western termination of the Juniata canal, and cross- 
ing the Allegheny mountain by the summit at Blair's Gap, de- 
scends to the valley of the Conemaugh, down which it proceeds 
to Johnstown and there meets the Western Division of the Penn- 
sylvania canal. On this road there are ten inclined planes, num- 
bered from Johnstown eastward, and eleven "levels," or graded 
lines of road, the inclination of which is generally from 10 to 
15 feet to the mile, except that between Johnstown and the first 
plane, where it is about 24 feet, and that betAveen the eastern plane 
and Hollidaysburg:, where the maximum is 52 feet. The summit 
at Blair's Gap is 2,325 feet above the level of mean tide; the 
ascent from Hollidaysburg to the summit is 1,398 feet in a distance 
often miles, and the descent to Johnstown 1,171 feet in a distance 
ot 26^ miles. There are five inchned planes on each side of the 
summit ; the longest being No. 8, or the third one west of HolU- 
daysburg, which is 3,117 feet in length, with a rise of 307^ feet; 
and the shortest. No. 3, the third east of Johnstown, 1,480 feet iu 
length, rising 130^ feet. 

At the head of each inclined plane are two stationary engines 
of about thirty-five horse power each, which move the endless 
rope to which the cars are attached. Four cars, each loaded with 
a burden of 7000 pounds, can be drawn up at once, and as many 
let down at the same time ; this operation can be performed 
from six to ten times in an hour. An ingenious contrivance, 
called a safety car, is attached to the rope below the road cars, 
which stops them in case of accident to the rope or fastenings. 
But one of the stationary engines is used at a time ; the other be- 
ing provided in order to prevent delay from accidents or repairs. 
On the short levels between the planes, horses are used for drawing 
the cars ; but on the longer ones locomotives are preferred. 

A viaduct over the Conemaugh, about eight miles east of Johns- 
town, is much admired for its boldness and beauty of design and 
execution. It is a single arch of 80 feet span, at a height of 70 
feet above the water of the stream. In order to pass through 
an abrupt ridge near the head of the first plane east of Johns- 
town, a tunnel has been constructed 901 feet in length, 20 feet 
wide, and 19 feet high within the arch. The entrances have orna- 
mental fa9ades of cut stone, and the tunnel is arched with stone 
for 150 feet from each end, beyond which the rock is sufficiently 
solid to form a roof. 

This road was opened for use in March, 1834. Length 36^, 
miles. Cost $1,783,176. Revenue to 1840, rail road tolls $413, 



156 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

504, motive power $443,480 : expenditures, road $293,135, mo- 
tive power $539,507, engines, ropes, &c. $122,236. 

The Gettysburg Rail Road was intended to effect a communica- 
tion between the Pennsylvania improvements and those of Mary- 
land, by connecting with the Bahimore and Ohio railroad, and 
also with the Chesapeake and Ohio canal. A company having 
been incorporated to make a rail road from Wrightsville, opposite 
Columbia, through York to Gettysburg, connecting at its eastern 
end with the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road, the State under- 
took to continue the road from Gettysburg westward to Maryland. 
After expending more than $700,000 on the eastern end between 
Gettysburg and the summit of the South mountain, the work was 
suspended. Most of the mountain sections consisted of deep cut- 
tings, high embankments and expensive tunnels, which yet remain 
in an unfinished condition, as a monument of useless public ex- 
penditure. 

2. Canals and Rail Roads construdedby companies. 

Lehigh JVavigation. The improvements constructed by the Le- 
high Coal and Navigation Company, consist of a succession of 
canal and slack water navigation, numerous dams being built 
across the river, forming navigable pools, and between these, canals 
of various lengths complete the communication. These works 
connect with the Delaware Division of the State canal at Easton 
on the Delaware, and thence extend up the Lehigh river by Beth- 
lehem and Allentown to Mauch Chunk, at the eastern termination 
of the great southern anthracite coal basin. The canals are 60 
feet wide at the water line, 45 at bottom, and 5 feet deep ; locks 100 
feet long and 22 feet wide, capable of passing boats carrying more 
than 100 tons: dams from 300 to 564 feet long, and 8 to 19| feet 
high. Distance 46^ miles, with a rise in lockage of 353 feet. 

From Mauch Chunk the same system of navigation is prolonged 
up the river to Whitehaven, 24| miles ; and thence to the falls at 
Stoddartsville, 13^ miles, is a descending navigation by artificial 
freshets, used chiefly for bringing down lumber. Distance from 
Mauch Chunk to the northern termination of the works 38:^ miles. 
Ascent 936 feet. The locks above Mauch Chunk are of the same 
length as those below, and 20 feet wide : one of them has a lift of 
30 feet, and can be filled or emptied in 2|- minutes. On this upper 
division of the work are 20 dams, from 14 to 38 feet high, and from 
187 to 375 feet long. Total length of the navigation 84^ miles. 

The Lackawaxen Canal, constructed as an extension of the 
Delaware and Hudson canal into Pennsylvania, enters this State 
near the mouth of Lackawaxen, and extends up that stream to 
Honesdale in Wayne county, where it connects with a rail road 
to the Lackawana coal mines at Carbondale. Length 25 miles ; 
lockage rise 187 feet from the Delaware to Honesdale, which is 
B70 feet above tide water. 

Schuylkill JVavigation. — Commences at Fair Mount dam, near 
Philadelphia, and is continued up the Schuylkill by Norristown 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 157 

and Reading to Port Carbon in SchuylkiU county ; thus opening 
a communication between the city and the heart of the Schuylkill 
coal region. It was commenced in 1815 and completed in 1826. 
This work, like the Lehigh navigation, is a series of pools formed 
by dams across the river, with intervening short Hnes of canal, 
sometimes on the east and sometimes on the west side of the river, 
which is crossed several times on the route. Near Reading it is 
intersected by the Union canal, and thus has a communication 
with the Susquehanna, and with the State canals of the interior. 
Length of navigation from Philadelphia to Port Carbon 108 miles, 
of which 58 is canal and 50 slack water. The longest line of 
canal on the route is 22 miles, called the Girard, the upper end 
of which is 5 or 6 miles below Reading. Width of canal 36 feet 
at top, 22 at bottom, and 4 feet deep. Locks 80 by 17 feet : total 
ascent 610 feet. 

Union Canal. — This line of navigation passes from the Schuyl- 
kill near Reading, westward up the valley of Tulpehocken creek 
to the summit between the head waters of that stream and those 
of the Gluitapahilla, a branch of the Swatara. It then descends 
the Swatara to its mouth, at the Susquehanna near Middletown. 
A branch of this work, 23 miles in length, serving the double 
purpose of a navigable canal and a feeder, extends up the Swatara 
northward to Pine Grove in Schuylkill county, from which rail 
roads are made to the coal mines of that region. Near the gap by 
which the Swatara passes through the Blue mountain, a large 
dam is constructed which forms a pool or reservoir several miles 
in extent. The feeder on the Swatara being lower than the sum- 
mit level of the canal near Lebanon, water wheels have been 
erected, which are now aided by steam engines, for the purpose 
of raising the water by forcing pumps, from which it is conducted 
in a trunk several miles to the main canal. Near the town of 
Lebanon are also steam works by means of which a partial supply 
of water is obtained. From the commencement of this canal on 
the Schuylkill to the summit level is 41^ miles ; ascent of lockage 
311 feet. The summit level is 7 miles long, and 498|- feet above 
tide water. From this to the Susquehanna is 33f miles ; descent 
208^ feet. Width of canal 36 feet, depth 4 feet : locks 75 by 8i 
feet. Length of canal 82 miles. 

The Susquehanna or T%de Water Canal is partly in Pennsylva- 
nia, commencing at Wrightsville, opposite Columbia, and con- 
tinuing down the west side of the Susquehanna river to Havre de 
Grace in Maryland. By means of this canal a communication is 
effected between the eastern division of the Pennsylvania canal 
and the tide water of Chesapeake Bay. Canal 50 feet wide, 5 
feet deep ; locks with double chamber, admitting the passage of 
two boats at the same time, or of a raft 170 feet long and 16 wide. 
Length 45 miles : descent 233 feet. 

Conestoga JYavigation, a series of dams and locks on Conestoga 
creek, from the city of Lancaster to the Susquehanna river. Locks 
100 by 22 feet : length of navigation 18 miles : descent 62 feet. 

Codorus JYavigation, an improvement by dams, locks and canals 

14 



158 GEOGRAniY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

on Codorus creek, from the borough of York to llie Susquehanna 
river. TiCiijj^lh 1 1 miles. 

lialil hlii<j;lr. and Siirinii; Creek JV(wii!;atian, from the West hraneh 
Stair ciuial al Lock Haven in ('liiitoii coiiiily, up the Hald Mai,Me 
anti Spriiii^ creeks to Hcllcrontt' in ('('litre county. Length 25 
miles, 19 of which are fmislied. Lockage 183 feet. 

J\I(ni.(m<^-alicla Mtvi>j;(iti<)n, an improv<Mnent extending up that 
riv<>r to tlu! Virginia line: imlinished. Length about 40 miles. 

^Dhthoninij; ('(n/<j/, S miles of which are in Pennsylvania, extends 
I'rom (he Heaver division of the State canal, near Newcastle in 
Mercer county, up the valley of Mahoning river into the State of 
Ohio, and connects with the Ohio and Eri(; canal at Akron in 
Portage county, Ohio. licngth 85 miles. 

l\.Mi- KoADs. In the city of Philadelphia and the incorporated 
districts adjt)ining, there are several short rail roads laid for the 
j)urpose ol connecting the larger works ol' this kind which ap- 
proach the city in dilferenl directions, and to distrihute their con- 
veniences and advantages of business more widely over the city 
and districts. 

Citij liiiil liiHul extends on Broad street from the Columbia 
rail road at V^ine, to the Southwark rail road at Cedar or South 
street, one mile; with a branch down Market street from Jiroad to 
Third street, and thence down Third and Dock streets to the city 
warehouses near Dock street wharf. Length ^ mih*. 

Soullnrark Hail lload, from the City rail road at South street 
down l>road to Prime street, and thence by the latter to the Dela- 
ware ahove the Navy yard; nearly two miles. A hranch of this 
road, half a mile in h>ngth, extends up Swanson to Cedar street 
near the wharf. 

JVorthern Liherties and Penn Towiushii) Hail lioad branches from 
the C()lund)ia rail road anil passes down Willow street to the 
Delaware, connecting with the (Jermantown and Norristown, and 
also with the Philadelphia and Trenton rail roads. Length H 
mile. 

Pliiladchiliin and Tirnton Rail lioad extends from Philadelphia 
by Franklord, llolmeshurg and Bristol, to Morrisville, op[)osite 
TrtMiton, on the Delaware. Rails are laid across the bridge into 
Trenton, forming a connnunication with the rail road from Tren- 
ton to New York. Length ahout 'iS miles. 

PliHadclplna and ]\'ihninii;lon Hail /^«/i/ connects with the South- 
wark rail road at IJroad and Prime stre(>ls in Philadelphia, crosses 
the Schuylkill by a viaduct at Oray's ferry, passes through Ches- 
ter in Delawan^ county to the state line, and tlience to Wilmington 
in the slate of Delaware, where it joins tlu^ Wilmington and Sus- 
qu(>hanna rail road to Baltimore. Ijcngth '27 miles. 

Philinlclpliia, (icrnninUnon and JYnrristinrn. Hail Hoad, 17 miles 
in length, extends on the eastern side of Schuylkill, hy Manayunk, 
to Norristown in Montgomery county. Ahout three miles from 
the city, a branch leaves this road and proceeds to Germantown, 
3 miles. 

West Philadelphia Rail Road, undertaken with a view to avoid 



IN'JKRNAJ. I.MrROVKMKNTH. I7i 

11j<; inr,li;M«l [jlrifi*; on ill*- (liA{nn\n:t mil rowi w<r«t of (S<:liiiy)l</)l, 
<;xl^'n'lM itom lliul. riv<r oppofiib- lln; <'My, \ni\i>w Mark'rl, «U«<l, 
iiorlli w<'«l.w;ir(l, iifiiiin{< with iJMt Colunilii.-i rail fo:i<l it\nnilH iniU'H 
from \\i<- ,S«-.)iiiyll<ill. Ii n'niain^ i/j ;ui lJnfi/^i^^ll<'(i f-.ialc, 'J'Im^ higlxrHt 
^radf i;i n<;iily 57, ?in<l l,li<- -.ivni^^t' ^nidt- 4'.i UilufT ini\i\ 

ytdh/ij HaU ll.otid, from lli'- I')iila<j«)jil));i. ;j;jrj K<;arl)/i^r r;!)) rr>;yJ 
<i/i l,li<- vv'-it. fii'l<- of H'thuylkill, n<-;j,r Norri.^l^jwrj, uj; i,))*- va)J<'y, Vt 
inUTHcrA. \.\n: \*\h\:kU\i)\h:i. and (yolninhr.i raj) road <'a,*iJ, of Down- 
jn^lown, ahocjl '.i\ imh-ti froni i\u'. fj'fy, li«'/it(Ui 20 fni)«'i. M:ixi 
niiirn ((rad*; o5^ U-t:\. p<'r fni^^ Itoa^d ijn(inifili«;d. 

tVt'M (Jhr.Hl.i/r Hail, Howl, ixU-nd'i from a poirjl. on l,)i<; J'liil;id«;l 
pliia ;ifid ^ 'ol(irnl/j;j rail ro;i/l, 'Z^ mil*;;; from l,ij«t ftily, !/> W«'«t 
^/Iw-^-.M-r, al;oiil. 10 f/jil«'^, 

l*ldlMlidpk'M and llcadiufj^ Had Itoad, f;onn<;<;tr^ vvilh U»<; (/fJuni- 
bja rail road, at th<' loot of tin; jn<din<'d plan';, o/i tho vv^wt wide <^r 
Hchuylkil) n'-ar fMiilad<'lphia, anfl tli'-fK'*' cxf/'ndw lip that riv-r, hy 
It<tadin}(, U> I'ott^vill'r in .Sr'.liuylkjII county, tliufi ojx-riifjj^ a lin<; ol' 
<:ot(if/jijni«-,a.i.if>n h'-twr'-n JMi)la.dc|p}ii;i. and lli<' (Sr-.luiylloll r,oal 
n-^io/i. lit-inif <:<,iiiiC(-U:(\ w/th tli«; r;jd roadM w)ii«',|i irxUmfl iiuin 
Ujo varioiJH ;ninin{.; dihtrioth V) th<; rivrr, it will a/ford a rn<iann Tor 
i\ut convffyan<;(; of coal t/j l)»<; city at all tH'Mtionn. 'i'Ji'; wKob; lin<', 
frora l*ott«vill<! to Philadcljiliia, in rxnnpOK'td of'l/jv«tl« a/id d<t«c'rnri 
iti^ ^rad'M, wliicli giv<;« {^n;at advantaf^<;M U> tli«; d'•^c«rndinJ( tran?i 
port;ition. A lo«-,oniotiv'; <rnf(int: of II I/j;j:: W'ri;(lit lja>; c,o/jy«-y*-<J 
from |{/;idinjf to the ( 'olnr/jb/a r;jil ro;id n'-ar J'hila/h-lpliia, at a 
hinul<; loafl, 101 carK witli a j^ro«H l>urd<'n ()i' 4U'-i Vtii-i, at an av<'rag*; 
H[*<'«'(1 of 10 mil<;H to th'i hour. A part of thiw lavi (utiiniHU'A of 
^'X)^ harr*;l« of fiour, w'*i;.4iint^ 10^) f/jn«. Tli/;rc an; thr<?<f tiinn'd^ 
on ihiM road: on*; at i^'lat liock, H milun i'mtii l\u: city, 'J'/i i't-M m 
lc'nf(t.h ; anoth'rr n«;ar riiamixvill'; oi I0'{2 fi:<'t; and th<; tliird n«-ar 
J'ort dint/>n, M^iO f«-«rt. N*;ar lh<; ii<'Cond tunn'rl, ahoot '/O m)l<r« 
from i'hilad<rl()hia, lli'f tinul crohh<;h Ut th'; «'ahl hk\i'. of th*- rivr hy 
a noal and wrll huilt vnuUu-x, '■^M U:*'X in l/;n;^th and 'M i't.':i u\tt)v*i 
th*; watf'.r. Lt'.iii^lh from tli'; Columhia rail n^ad Ut R<;a/iitj{^ 54 
inilcM: from l{j';u\in^ to ['otf>)vill<i .'iO rnil/^H. A branch, 5 r/n'ji;» 
in h'n((th, d'^hij^ncd for tlic lranM>ort>ition of coal t/j tho l)tUiw:ir<', 
Icuvt'H tliiw rojwj at tli'; l^'alj*-, of nchuylkill arjd cr (»-.''.< :h <;ahtw;<rd f/> 
iho l>flawar<r riv^r at itichffiOfjd, aU>ijt t)jr«;*; r/jilc?< ahov; I'h/Ja- 
d<;lr>hia. 

/>fW/>j Hr.huiflkdX liad liniuL I'Vom i'ort <'/Jinf/jn, at t)»<; jiinction 
of th'; two main hranch<'h of .Schuylkill above th'; \'t\\H'. moijnt^iin, 
thi« roa^l <;xt':nd« up th't Litth; Hchuylkill t/j ih'r 'V.iin'.u\\r.i. <^oal 
mirioH, n'-ar th'; Kouth hide of tlie i>ro;i/i moiinbun. Accent -I^Xi 
U'j'i: l«-nf/th 2.'} rnil<"',. 

MiuH lidl and SchuylkiU ffavrn, Had. lOnid,, «-xUiii(\H irouL 
Hcliuylkill ilaven, up the Weht iirarich of Hchuylkill, U) t)u'. (ujul 
mine*) in the neif^hU^urhood of Mine Jiill. f>enj(t}i of ro;id and 
branchen, 20 mile«, 

M(/unJ, (Jarh'/a H/id, lOttul, be}(inf«, at Moufjt Carbon, a milt< 
Lclow Pottijville, pfthbeb by that t/jwa up IVorw-giau creek U) the 



160 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

commencement of the Danville and Pottsville rail road, and thence 
extends by branches to several coal mines. Length 7 miles. 

Schvylkill Valley Rail Road, commences at Port Carbon, where 
the Schuylkill navigation terminates, and passes up the Schuylkill 
through the coal region to Tuscarora, a distance of 10 miles. It 
has many branches, extending to various coal mines, the collective 
length of which is 12 or 15 miles. 

Mill Creek Rail Road, from Port Carbon to the mines about 
Mill creek, 4 miles, with branches amounting to 5 miles. 

Danville and Pottsville Rail Road, leaves the Mount Carbon rail 
road about 3 miles above Pottsville, crosses the Broad Mountain 
by a summit 1014 feet above the level of the Susquehanna at 
Sunbury, and continues across the valley of Mahanoy creek, and 
over the dividing ridge between that stream and Shamokin creek, 
down which it proceeds to Sunbury on the Susquehanna. On 
this road there is a tunnel 700 feet long, and seven inclined planes, 
one of which is 1650 feet in length, with a rise of 345 feet. Chain 
cables are used on these planes instead of ropes. The eastern 
section of this road is completed to GirardviUe, 14 miles from 
Pottsville. A tunnel 2500 feet long has been cut through Bear 
Ridge, on the Girard estate, for the purpose of obtaining coal. 
The western section of the road is completed from Sunbury, 21 
miles, to the new town of Shamokin, where there are extensive 
coal mines, and a furnace for smelting iron with anthracite. Total 
length 44| miles. A branch, 7 miles in length, is contemplated 
to be made to Danville, on the North branch of Susquehanna. 

Little Schuylkill and Susquehanna, (w Catawissa Rail Road, 
extends from the termination of the Little Schuylkill rail road at 
Tamaqua, across the dividmg ridge between the waters of Little 
Schuylkill and Catawissa creek, and thence down the valley of 
the latter stream to the town of Catawissa on the North branch of y 
Susquehanna, about 35 miles. This road is unfinished. 

It is proposed to extend it from Catawissa to Williamsport in 
Lycoming county. A branch, 12 miles in length, extends from 
this road near the summit north of Tamaqua, down the valley of 
Gluakake, to the Beaver meadow rail road near the Lehigh. 

Mauch Chunk Rail Road, from the coal landing at Mauch 
Chunk to the summit mines, 9 miles. Ascent 936 leet ; highest 
grade 133 feet per mile. There is also a rail road of 5| miles, 
from Mauch Chunk to the company's coal mines on Room Run. 
Ascent 534 feet. 

Beaver Meadow Rail Road, from Parryville on the Lehigh, 
6 miles below Mauch Chunk, up the river to the mouth of 
Q,uakake creek, and thence up that stream to the Beaver meadow 
mines; 20 miles. 

Hazelton Rail Road, branches off from the Beaver meadow 
road and leads to the coal mines near Hazelton; 8 miles. 

Lehigh and Susquehanna Rail Road, constructed by the Lehigh 
Coal and Navigation Company, from Whitehaven on the Lehigh 
to Wilkesbarre on the Susquehanna, where it connects with the 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 161 

North Branch Canal. It has one tunnel and three inclined planes. 
Length 19|. miles. 

Carbondale and Honesdale Rail Road, connected with the Hud- 
son and Delaware canal navigation on the Lackawana, extends 
from Honesdale in Wayne county to the coal mines near Carbon- 
dale in Luzerne. Length 16^ miles. The summit on Moosic 
mountain, an elevation of 912 feet, is passed by means of incUned 
planes. 

Pine Grove Rail Road, from the Union canal navigation at 
Pine Grove in Schuylkill county, to the coal mines, 4 miles; to 
which may be added the Lorbert-y and Swatara rail roads to other 
mines in the same region, 8 miles. 

Lykens^ Valley Rail Road, from Millerstown on the Susque- 
hanna, along the north side of Berry's mountain to the Wiconisco 
coal mines at Bear Gap in Dauphin county. Length 16 miles. 

Williamsport and Elmira Rail Road, completed from the West 
Branch canal at Williamsport, up Lycoming creek to Ralston, 25 
miles ; and thence to extend northward to Elmira in the State of 
New York, where it will connect with the Chemung canal. Total 
length 73^ miles. 

Blossburg and Coiirtins; Rail Road, from the bituminous coal 
region at Blossburg in Tioga county, to the Chemung canal at 
Corning in the State of New York; 40 miles; part finished. 

Harrisbur^ and Lancaster Rail Road, leaves the Philadelphia 
and Columbia rail road near Lancaster, and extends by Mountjoy 
and Portsmouth to Harrisburg, where it connects with the Cum- 
berland Valley rail road. Near Elizabethtown is a tunnel of 850 
feet. Highest grade, 42 feet to the mile; but generally less than 
35. Length 36 miles. 

Cumberland Valley Rail Road, commences at Harrisburg, and 
crossing the Susquehanna, continues westward by Carlisle, New- 
ville and Shippensburg to Chambersburg in Franklin county. 
The bridge by which this road crosses the Susquehanna is a 
beautiful structure, having the rail road laid upon the flat roof, 
with carriage ways beneath. Length of road 52 miles. A route 
for a rail road to connect with this, and to extend from Chambers- 
burg to Pittsburg, has been surveyed. 

Franklin Rail Road, connects with the Cumberland Valley rail 
road at Chambersburg, and thence proceeds southward by Green- 
castle to the state line, which it crosses and extends to Hagerstown 
in Maryland. Length about 20 miles. It is intended to continue 
this road to the Potomac, to intersect the Chesapeake and Ohio 
canal. 

York and Wrightsville Rail Road, extends from the western 
termination of the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road, across the 
Susquehanna to Wrightsville, and thence westward to York, 13 
miles, where it intersects the Baltimore and Susquehanna rail 
road. It is proposed to continue this road to Gettysburg in Adams 
county- 

Baltimore and Susquehanna Rail Road, proceeds southward 
from York, up the vaUey of Codorus creek to the Maryland 

14* 



162 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

line 18 miles, and continues thence to Baltimore. Whole length, 
56 miles. 

Summary. 

Length of State rail roads 118 miles. 



Length of State canals 848 miles. 
" of Company canals 432 " 

Total length of canals 1280 miles. 



of Company rail roads 602 
of private rail roads 
to mines, &c. - 75 



Total length of rail roads 795 miles. 

Twjipike Roads and Bridges. — Pennsylvania is distinguished 
for the number and excellence of her turnpike roads, which tra- 
verse the surface of the State in every direction, and extend their 
several branches to the most remote districts. They have been 
nearly all constructed by incorporated companies, and though few 
of them have ever yielded dividends equal to the interest on the 
cost of construction, and most of them little more than sufficient 
to keep them in repair, yet they should not be considered as an 
improvident and wasteful expenditure of capital. The advantages 
resulting to those portions of the State which they connect and 
through which they pass, from increased facilities of travelling 
and the transportation of produce and merchandise, the additional 
value which they consequently give to the lands adjacent to them, 
the easy and direct communication afforded by their means be- 
tween different sections of the country, previously separated by 
impassable mountains or impenetrable wilderness, have altogether 
far exceeded in value the cost of all the turnpikes in Pennsylvania. 

These roads are usually constructed of a bed of broken stone, 
from one to two feet thick, having a convex surface so as to per- 
mit the water to drain off freely, and sufficiently wide to allow the 
passage of two or three carriages abreast. On each side of this 
artificial road is another track, commonly called the summer road, 
which is made on the natural soil, and being generally smoother 
than the stoned road, is usually preferred when the ground is dry. 
On the steep mountain sides the turnpikes ascend by a winding 
series of regularly graded slopes, seldom exceeding three or four 
degrees, no angle exceeding five degrees being permitted by law. 

The durability and smoothness of a turnpike depends much 
upon the kind of stone with which it is made. Those rocks which 
readily disintegrate or crumble by pressure and friction, such as 
coarse, soft or loosely cemented sandstones, are not well adapted 
to this purpose. Limestone, when not too soft, makes an excel- 
lent road if broken small ; and on some of our best turnpikes has 
been conveyed many miles for making or repairing the roads in 
districts where other stone, of inferior quality, is convenient and 
abundant. In general, those rocks which have a compact texture, 
and are tough rather than hard, if broken sufficiently small to form 
a compact bed, make the best and most pleasant road. 

The Philadelphia and Lancaster turnpike, 62 miles in length, 
is said to be the first road of this kind undertaken in the United 
States. It was commenced in 1792 and finished two years after- 
wards, at a cost of about $465,000. Other turnpikes have since 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 163 

been connected with it, forming a continuous line across the State 
throughout its whole length, from Trenton on the Delaware to the 
State of Ohio on the west, a distance of nearly 350 miles. Nu- 
merous other turnpikes intersect this main line, leading off from 
it in different directions, and again branching out and intersecting 
others, so as to form a network of communication to every part 
of the commonwealth, and rendering the most remote districts of 
comparatively easy access. 

The common roads are under the care of supervisors elected by 
the voters of each township, and are kept in repair by a tax laid 
upon the inhabitants. It is the custom in many townships for 
those who prefer it to work on the road to the amount of their tax, 
Deing duly notified by the supervisor when and where their ser- 
vices will be required. Bridges over small streams are erected at 
the expense of the townships ; but if the estimated cost of a re- 
quired bridge appears to be larger than a township should reason- 
ably bear, the court, grand jury and county commissioners may, 
on application, direct it to be built by the county. 

The number and excellence of the bridges in Pennsylvania is a 
frequent subject of remark by travellers. It would be useless for 
us to attempt a particular notice of the vast number erected at the 
expense of the several counties, over the streams within their 
limits ; many of them being substantial and well built structures, 
costing from $20,000 to $50,000. Those across the Delaware, 
Susquehanna, Allegheny, Monongahela and others of our large 
streams, amounting in number to 70 or 80, have been mostly built 
by incorporated companies ; and many of them are so distinguished 
for excellence of construction and ingenuity of combination, as 
well as scientific boldness and beauty of design, that it may well 
be doubted whether any other part of the world can compete with 
Pennsylvania in the art of building wooden bridges. 

What public improvements were recommended by a committee of the 
Legislature in 1791 ? When was the first act passed on the subject, and 
what was authorized by it ? What was directed by the act of 1825 ? — And 
of 1826? When was the internal improvement fund estabhshed, and of 
what does it consist ? What was authorized by the law of 1827 ? — ^Of 1828 ? 
What is said of the pubUc sentiment then existing in favour of internal im- 
provements ? Why have these favourable anticipations not been reahzed ? 
How was money obtained for the prosecution of the pubhc works ? What 
at length checked their further extension ? By what means could the state 
be extricated from embarrassment ? What is said of the benefits derived 
by the people from the public works ? In what other improvements beside 
canals and railroads have the funds of the State been invested? Describe 
the extent of each of the following divisions of the State canal, and men- 
tion such other particulars respecting them as you can remember. Dela- 
ware division. Eastern division. Juniata division. Susquehanna division. 
North Branch division. North Branch extension. West Branch division. 
Sinnemahoning extension. Wiconisco canal. Western division. Beaver 
division. Erie extension. French creek feeder. What is the extent of 
the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road ? Describe the Schuylkill viaduct 
and the inclined plane. What other particulars can you mention of this 
road? How is the motive power furnished, and what is said of the loco- 
motive engines ? Describe the Allegheny Portage R. R. How many in- 



164 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

clined planes has it, and what is said of them ? How are the cars drawn 
up and let down the planes ? What is said of the Conemaugh viaduct and 
the tunnel ? For what purpose was the Gettysburg rail road intended ? 
Where do the works of the Lehigh Company commence, and what is their 
extent ? The Lackawaxen canal ? The Schuylkill navigation ? The 
Union canal? How is its summit supphed with water? Describe the 
Tide water canal. Conestoga navigation. Codorus navigation. Bald 
Eagle and Spring creek navigation. Monongahela navigation. Mahoning 
canal. What three rail roads in Philadelphia are mentioned ? Describe 
the Philadelphia and Trenton rail road. Philadelphia and Wilmington. 
(And each of the other rail roads mentioned.) What is the total length of 
State canals ? Of company canals ? Total length of canals in the State ? 
Of State, company and private rail roads ? What is said of the turnpikes 
of Pennsylvania ? By whom mostly made ? What have been the advan- 
tages resulting from them ? How are they constructed ? What kinds of 
stone are best for making these roads ? What is said of the Philadelphia 
and Lancaster turnpike ? What line of turnpike extends the whole length 
of the State ? . How are the common roads kept in repair ? — Small bridges 
erected ? What is said of the larger bridges across the rivers ? 



■♦♦- 



PART II.-OF THE SEVERAL COUNTIES. 



1. Adams County. 

This county is bounded on the north by Cumberland, east by 
York, west by Franklin, and south by the State of Maryland. 
Population, 23,044. 

The face of the country is rather hilly. Along the north-western 
border is the elevated range called the South mountain ; and many 
hills and ridges of trap rock traverse other parts of the county. 

Adams county has no large streams. Marsh creek. Rock creek 
and other branches of the Monocacy which flow southward into 
Maryland ; and Bermudian and Conewaga, in the eastern part, are 
the principal creeks. These afford many excellent mill seats, and 
many of them are used as such : the county may be said to be 
well watered. 

The geological features of this county are diversified. A belt of lime- 
stone passes through the south-eastern corner, from near Hanover in York 
county, by Littlestown, nearly to the Maryland hne, where it runs to a 
point, being overlapped by the middle secondary red shale and sandstone. 
This latter formation prevails over the greatest portion of the county, being 
broken, however, in many places by ridges and dikes of trap rock, which 
form rough and rocky hills. In the upper portion of the red shale form- 
ation, near the base of the South mountain, is a belt of calcareous conglo- 
merate, similar to the famous variegated Potomac marble, which in some 
places would yield blocks susceptible of a fine polish. It occurs in great 
variety and beauty near the village of Fairfield or Millerstown. The South 
mountain, with its protruding ridges, consists chiefly of a hard white sand- 
stone, accompanied by a variety of curiously altered rocks, highly interest- 



ADAMS COUNTY. 165 

ing to the scientific geologist. Native copper, together with the blue and 
green carbonate of this metal, occurs in the South mountain — and epidote, 
asbestus, zeolite and other minerals are found here. Iron ore occurs in 
several parts of the county, but is not much used. 

The soil is of ^iree kinds, partaking of the nature of the several 
rock formations. 1. The limestone in the south-eastern part of 
the county, and a narrow belt near the base of the South moun- 
tain. This is very productive and well adapted to agriculture. 
2. The soil of the red shale formation. Where this red shale has 
been altered by the influence of the protruded trap rock in its vi- 
cinity, and changed to a bluish colour, the soil is clayey and 
heavy, unfavourable to vegetation and not much valued for agri- 
culture. In low and wet situations, however, it produces tolerable 
crops of grass. But where the rock retains its natural red colour 
the soil is more fertile, and with proper improvement and the ju- 
dicious use of lime and other manures, may be rendered highly 
productive. In many places, where the rock lies near the surface, 
the summer crops suflfer much from drought. 3. The small 
patches and belts of soil arising from the disintegration of the trap 
rocks. This is a good soil, and if well farmed and manured is 
very productive, being considered nearly equal to that of the lime- 
stone. 

The climate is similar to that of the other southern counties of 
Pennsylvania. The mean annual temperature is 51.36"^ Fahren- 
heit ; that of the winter 29^ ; of summer 73*^. The thermometer 
seldom sinks below 0° during winter, or rises higher than 91° or 
92° during summer. The greatest cold which has been known 
to occur here is 23° below 0° ; and the greatest heat 95° or 96°. 
Winter usually sets in about the middle of December, and spring 
opens about the middle of March. The maximum temperature 
occurs near the middle of July, and the minimum about the middle 
of January. 

Gettysburg is the county town, situated rather in the southern 
part of the county, between Marsh and Rock creeks. It is 114 
miles from Philadelphia, 52 from Baltimore, 24 from Chambers- 
burg, and 32 from Hagerstown. Population 2,000. Its private 
dwellings are neat and substantial, though not expensive. The 
court house and pubhc offices are of brick, and sufficiently com- 
modious for the public business of the county. There are seven 
churches, which are mostly good buildings : one Presbyterian, 
one Lutheran, one Union, one Methodist, one Independent, one 
Roman Catholic and one African. The buildings belonging to the 
Pennsylvania College, and to the Lutheran Theological Seminary, 
are large and beautiful edifices, and being favourably situated pre- 
sent a splendid and imposing appearance. 

Adams county contains a number of flourishing villages, the 
principal of which are Petersburg (York Springs,) Littlestown, 
Abbotistown, Berlin, Oxford, Fairfield (Millerstown,) Hampton, 
Hunterstown, Mummasburg and Heidlersburg. 

Agriculture is the principal employment of the people of this 
county : its productions are wheat, rye, Indian corn, oats, buck- 



166 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

wheat, grass, &c. The principal forest trees are several species 
of oak, hickory, chestnut, pine, ash and poplar. A large amount 
of timber is annually sold, which is used in different parts of this 
county and the adjoining parts of Pennsylvania and Maryland. 

The manufacture of carriages is carried on extensively in Gettys- 
burg : they are mostly sold in Maryland and Virginia. The weaving 
of coach lace; the manufacture of saddle trees, paper, cotton and 
woollen goods, and of flour, employ a large amount of capital and 
industry. 

The value of real and personal property assessed for county 
purposes in 1842, was $4,330,360. The actual value of real 
estate is perhaps from a third to a half more than the assessed 
value. County tax, $14,390: State tax, $6,101. 

The turnpike and common roads are generally good. The prin- 
cipal turnpikes are those leading from Chambersburg and Carlisle 
towards Baltimore, and that from York to Gettysburg. There are 
no canals in the county, and but one unfinished rail road, the 
famous " Gettysburg extension," which was designed to connect 
the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road with the Baltimore and 
Ohio rail road, and the Chesapeake and Ohio canal near V^illiams- 
port in Maryland. 

The state of education among the people generally may be said 
to be tolerably good. There are 18 school districts, in 16 of which 
the common school system has been in operation since 1835. 
The number of school houses is about 100, of brick, stone, and 
wood. The schools are kept open on an average about 5 months 
in the year; but for want of suitable teachers are not in the best 
condition. They are, however, perhaps equal to those of most of 
the other counties in the State. 

Pennsylvania College is located at Gettysburg, and is in a very 
flourishing condition. During the last year it had in the collegiate 
and preparatory departments about 190 students. The faculty 
consists of a president and four professors ; it has, besides, two 
tutors, and a lecturer on anatomy. The library contains 1200 
volumes and is increasing yearly. The hbrary of the president 
contains 1500 volumes, and those of two Hterary societies con- 
nected with the college, about 800 each. Connected with the 
Lutheran Theological Seminary is a library of 7000 volumes. 
There is a flourishing female seminary at Gettysburg. 

This county was originally a part of Lancaster; but after the 
erection of Y^ork county, in 1749, it formed a part of that county. 
In 1800 it was laid ofi" as a separate county under the name of 
Adams. 

The first settlers came principally from Lancaster and Chester 
counties, and many foreigners, chiefly from Ireland and Scotland, 
were afterwards added to their number. Within the last 30 or 40 
years, the original stock have been very much supplanted by Ger- 
mans or their descendants; and the German language is now 
commonly spoken in several parts of the county. 

How is Adams county bounded ? What is said of the face of the country, 
mountains, &c. Mention the principal streams. Describe the rock forma- 



ALLEGHENY COUNTY. 167 

tions. In what part of the county is variegated marble found ? What ores 
and minerals occur ? What is said of the different soils ? Of the climate 
and the extremes of heat and cold ? What is the name of the county town, 
and how situated? Mention some of the villages in this county. The 
agricultural productions. Forest trees. Manufactures. Turnpikes and 
rail roads. VVhat is said of the state of education, and of the common 
schools ? What college and seminaries are in this county ? When was 
Adams county established, and to which did it originally belong ? From 
whence came the first settlers and emigrants from foreign countries ? 

2. Allegheny County. 

The county of Allegheny is bounded on the north by Butler ; 
on the east by Westmoreland ; south and south-west by Wash- 
ington, and north- west by Beaver. Population 81,235. 

The face of the country near the rivers and principal creeks 
is much broken, being furrowed into deep ravines and hollows. 
As we recede from these, the surface becomes more level ; but a 
large portion of the upland is of the kind called rolling, which is 
generally much prized by the farmers. But little of the land in this 
county can be called flat, excepting the alluvial or bottom lands 
along the rivers and creeks. Although some of the counties in 
Pennsylvania are more highly cultivated, and many have scenery 
more imposing and grand, yet few can present landscapes more 
pleasing. The river scenery, always beautiful on the Ohio and 
its tributaries, is almost equalled in beauty by the views presented 
from a thousand elevated spots, from which may be seen in varied 
succession, hills and dales, woods and thickets, orchards and fartn 
houses, herds of cattle and cultivated fields. 

Allegheny county is situated within the great western coal basin of Penn- 
sylvania, and it is to an inexhaustible supply of the finest bituminous coal, 
that Pittsburg principally owes its prosperity as a manufacturing city. It 
is this which supplies steam power and fuel for the foundries, steam engine 
manufactories, rolUng mills, nail works, cotton factories, and the vast va- 
riety of other industrial operations in manufactures and arts where heat is 
required ; and which has in less than fifty years enabled the industry and 
enterprise of her people to convert a village of a few log huts into a great 
manufacturing and commercial city. 

The lowest rock visible in the neighbourhood of Pittsburg is a soft red 
and blue shale of considerable thickness, on which rests a small seam of 
coal about a foot thick, surmounted by a stratum of Hmestone which con- 
tains abundance of fossil remains, chiefly encrini, producta, terebratula, &c. 
Next succeeds a thick series of slate, shale and sandstone layers ; above 
which is the sandstone rock that affords so abundant a supply of building 
stone for the city of Pittsburg, and of which have been constructed the 
western penitentiary, the new court house, and other public and private 
buildings. Over this is a bed of shales, slates and sandstones, supporting 
a band of limestone about three feet thick, of a yellowish colour, which 
breaks by joints into square or rhomboidal fragments. Immediately over- 
lying this is another series of variously coloured shales, supporting another 
thin bed of hmestone resembling the one last mentioned, separated by ten 
or twelve feet of red and yellow shale from a fourth limestone band, from 
three to five feet thick. The next rock in the ascending order consists of 
thin sandstones, separated by bands of slate and shale, and upon which 
rest the Hmestone strata immediately beneath the great Pittsburg coal 



168 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

seam. This limestone is of a blue or blackish colour, and consists of a 
number of layers separated by shale. 

The bed of coal, which supplies Pittsburg and its neighbourhood with 
such immense quantities of fuel, is situated towards the summit of the hills 
that lie around the city, and is one of the most important and extensively 
useful coal deposites in western Pennsylvania, yielding coal of the purest 
and best kind. It extends from some miles north of Pittsburg, southward 
over the whole valley of the Monongahela, being found in Allegheny, 
Westmoreland, Fayette, Greene and Washington counties. The main bed 
of workable coal in this seam is from 5^ to 9 feet in thickness ; being in 
Allegheny county generally about six feet, and enlarging to the south-east- 
ward. Above this, and separated from it by a thin layer of black clay shale, 
is a portion of the seam consisting of coal several feet thick, but so inter- 
mixed with thin bands of slate that it is generally rejected, on account of 
the trouble of separating the coal from the slate. 

The elliptical conformation of the basin causes this coal, together with 
the accompanying rock strata of the series, to ascend and crop out towards 
the east and north-east, and also towards the north and north-west ; and 
to descend gently towards the south. Hence we find the shales and sand- 
stones that overlie this coal, and which form the summits of the hills 
around Pittsburg, covered in the southern part of the county by a deposite 
of limestone which is still higher in the series. This extensive and highly 
useful bed of limestone spreads over most of the southern part of Alle- 
gheny, generally capping the summits of the hills ; but further southward 
it sinks below their tops, and is found in the hill sides and ravines, or form- 
ing the beds of the streams. It is of variable thickness, and consists of 
numerous layers of blue or dark coloured limestone, with interposed thin 
bands of calcareous shale. This bed of limestone is better adapted for 
burning into lime than most of the other strata in this region ; and when 
the value of lime as a manure for the soil shall be properly understood in 
our south-western counties, it will afford a source of mexhaustible advan- 
tage to the agriculture of this part of the State. 

That part of Allegheny county which lies east and south of the 
Allegheny and Ohio rivers, generally abounds in limestone and 
has an excellent soil. In that portion which lies west and north 
of those rivers, limestone is less abundant, and the soil is generally 
clayey. Here, however, the farmers who properly manure and 
cultivate their lands are well rewarded for their labour. The hill 
sides near the principal streams are generally too steep to be culti- 
vated by the plough ; but having a rich deep soil, those which 
have a southern or eastern exposure are admirably suited for gar- 
dens and graperies. From the success which has recently attended 
the cultivation of the grape, it is probable that before long many 
of the hill sides in this county will be devoted to the production 
of this delightful and wholesome fruit. 

During the summer the thermometer ranges generally from 75^ 
to 85° ; though some days occur on which it reaches 90° or 95*^. 
In the Avinter it seldom falls below 15° ; but there are few winters 
in which there are not some days of extreme cold on which the 
mercury falls to 0°, and sometimes as low as 10° or 15° below. 
The spring season is sometimes cold and wet until after the begin- 
ning of May, and frosts occasionally occur early in September. 
The autumn usually affords much delighful weather, with a tem- 
perature of 60*^ to l^'^, until November. The winter does not 
commonly set in with severity until about the first of January, 



ALLEGHENY COUNTY. 169 

though sometimes much earlier. A general thaw, clearing the 
ground of frost, commonly takes place about the middle of March ; 
but some sharp frosts are usual after this period, and indeed it is 
seldom that the month of May passes without frosts in the early 
part of it. 

This county is traversed by the Allegheny, Monongahela and Ohio 
rivers : the two first mentioned uniting at Pittsburg and there form- 
ing the Ohio. The Allegheny is remarkable for the clearness 
of its waters and the general beauty of the stream, being studded 
with many islands and flowing through a highly picturesque 
country. During high and middling stages of water, it is navigable 
for steamboats of hght draught as high as Olean, in the State of 
New York. The benefit of the trade on this river to our western 
counties, and indeed to many of the western states, is incalculable. 
Out of it has been floated nearly all the pine timber, boards and 
shingles that have been used in the valley of the Mississippi from 
Pittsburg to New Orleans. From three to six steamboats now 
run on this river from Pittsburg to Preeport, Kittaning, Franklin 
and Warren ; and in the summer season, when the river is low, 
small keel and flat boats are employed to do the carrying trade. 
About 400 large arks, or flat boats, from 65 to 120 feet long, come 
down the Allegheny annually, loaded with lumber and produce. 
These boats are generally sold at Pittsburg to the coal merchants, 
who reload them with coal for Cincinnati, Louisville, Natchez 
and the intermediate ports. 

The ascending trade of the Allegheny consists chiefly of Pitts- 
burg manufactures, groceries, and foreign and domestic goods for 
the supply of the upper country : but the descending trade is much 
greater, embracing a vast amount of all kinds of lumber, logs and 
shingles, pot and pearl ashes, whisky, cheese, cabinet ware, 
patent tubs and buckets, hay, oats, potatoes, hoop poles, bark, &c. 
a large quantity of salt from the Kiskiminetas, and of pig metal 
from the great iron establishments in Venango and Armstrong 
counties. 

The Monongahela, in appearance, offers a striking contrast 
compared with the Allegheny. Its waters are scarcely ever clear, 
and it has few or no islands in it. It flows through a picturesque, 
as well as highly cultivated country, and from its smooth and 
gentle current is well adapted to navigation. The trade on this 
river is also important, and to facilitate its navigation during the 
season of low water, a company has been incorporated to improve 
it by means of dams and locks. When this improvement shall 
have been completed, boats drawing four feet of water can pass at 
all seasons from Pittsburg to Brownsville. 

Of the Ohio it may be said that no stream in the world of the 
same length (and it is nearly 1000 miles long) exceeds it either in. 
beauty or usefulness. Its smooth and gentle current; its ever- 
varying but always beautiful scenery ; the high state of cultivation 
of the country through which it flows ; the growing and already 
noble cities, thriving towns, and numberless comfortable and occa- 
sionally splendid dwellings on its banks : its adaptation to steam 

15 



170 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



navigation, and the value of the products carried upon it — make 
it altogether the most interesting river in the world. 

Besides these rivers, Allegheny county is watered by a number 
of considerable streams, such as Chartier^s, Pine, Bull, Ticrtle, 
Peters^ and Deer creeks, on all of which are flouring and saw 
mills ; as well as a number of smaller streams on which there are 
some similar improvements. 




View of Pittsburg from the mouth of Saw-mill run, on the Ohio. 

The city of Pittsburg, being the capital, not only of this county, 
but of Western Pennsylvania, seems from its importance to require, 
in a work like this, a somewhat extended notice. We shall there- 
fore preface our account of its present state by a brief history of its 
first settlement, rise and progress, abridged from " Harris' Direc- 
tory," a valuable work to which we are indebted for many facts 
relating to Pittsburg and its vicinity. 

In pursuance of the scheme formed by the French governor of 
Canada for connecting that country with Louisiana, which then 
belonged to the same nation, a military post, called fort Venango, 
had been established at the mouth of French creek, where the 
town of Franklin now stands. The governor of Virginia, alarmed 
bv the progress of the French, sent Geoi'ge Washington to fort 
Venango to demand an explanation of their designs from the 
French commandant. Preparations had also been made by the 
French to take possession of '•' the Forks" at the junction of the 
Allegheny and Monongahela rivers, the spot now covered by the 
city of Pittsburg. Washington visited this place on his way to 
fort Venango, and carefully examined it, with a view to iis loca- 
tion as a military post. This was in November, 1753, and it does 



ALLEGHENY COUNTY. 171 

not appear that there was then a single white resident within the 
limits of the present city. 

The Virginians, in the ensuing spring, commenced the erection 
of a fort in order to enable them to take possession of the country; 
but before being completed it was captured by a large body of 
French and Indians. It was named Fort Du Q,uesne, and re- 
mained in possession of the French from 1754 to 1758. From 
this place arms and ammunition were distributed to the Indians, 
and they were incited to those murderous attacks upon the fron- 
tier settlements of Pennsylvania, which so long harassed and dis- 
turbed the settlers. Measures were taken to expel the French 
from this post, among which was the unfortunate and unsuccessful 
expedition of General Braddock in 1755. A formidable army 
having assembled at Carhsle, under the command of General 
Forbes, in 1758, the capture of Fort Du Q,uesne was again at- 
tempted, and Major Grant was despatched in advance with 800 
men. Having arrived near the fort, on the hill which now bears 
his name, he was surrounded and attacked by the enemy, losing 
above 300 men in killed and prisoners, being himself captured. 
General Forbes, however, pressed forward with the main body, — 
but on his approach the French set fire to the fort and abandoned it. 

A temporary stockaded fort, to contain 220 men, was constructed 
on the bank of the Monongahela, about 300 yards from the point 
where Fort Du Q^uesne stood, and was named Fort Pitt, in honour 
of the distinguished statesman of that name. In 1759, General 
Stanwix began to construct another fort, between the site of Fort 
Du Gluesne and the temporary Fort Pitt, to which the name of 
the latter was given. This was a formidable work, and is stated 
to have cost the British government about 60,000 pounds sterling. 

In 1763, when most of the forts to the north-west were taken 
by the Indians, Fort Pitt was also besieged; but was relieved by 
Colonel Bouquet, who marched from Carlisle and completely 
routed the Indians. A treaty was made in 1764, by which peace 
was restored. About this time " the old military plan," being that 
portion of the city between Water and Second streets, and between 
Market and Ferry streets, was laid out. In 1764, the brick redoubt 
was built, which may still be seen a little west of Stanwix street and 
north of Penn street. This is the only remaining monument of 
British industry within the limits of the city, and has on its south 
side a stone block with the inscription " Col. Bouquet, A. D. 
1764." 

From this time until the close of the revolutionary war, but 
Ihtle improvement was made at Pittsburg. In 1775, the number 
of dwelling houses within the limits of the present city did not 
exceed twenty-five or thirty. The land where the city stands, and 
the country eastward of it and south of the Monongahela, con- 
taining about 5,800 acres, was a manor belonging to the Penn 
family, and remained as their property after the revolution. 
Arrangements were made in the spring of 1784, by the agent of 
the Penns, to lay out and sell town lots and out lots on this manor; 
and these having been surveyed, seem to have been rapidly pur- 



172 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

chased. From this time improvement commenced: mechanics 
and traders composed a great portion of the population. 

In 1786, the first number of the Pittsburg Gazette was published, 
and in an article contained in it, the number of houses in the town 
was stated to be about one hundred. Pittsburg was then in West- 
moreland county, and the inhabitants had to travel about thirty 
miles to attend court. In 1788, an act was passed creating the 
county of Allegheny out of parts of Westmoreland and Washing- 
ton counties. The courts were to be held at Pittsburg until cer- 
tain trustees named in the act should erect suitable buildings on 
the reserved tract opposite Pittsburg; but in 1791 this provision 
was repealed, and the trustees authorized to purchase lots in Pitts- 
burg for a court house and jail. The creation of a new county, 
and the establishment of the seat of justice at Pittsburg, had an 
effect in promoting the improvement of the town. A more im- 
portant event, however, in the early history of Pittsburg, was the 
Western insurrection, in 1794, which compelled the government 
to send a large number of troops to this neighbourhood. These 
being mostly volunteers, active enterprising young men, many of 
them were so well pleased with Pittsburg and the surrounding 
country, that on their return home they made immediate prepara- 
tions for emigration and permanent settlement there. 

The first act for the incorporation of the borough of Pittsburg, 
was passed April 22, 1794. The act to incorporate the city of 
Pittsburg, was passed March 18, 1816. 

In considering the present condition, manufactures, trade and 
resources of Pittsburg, it will be proper to include the adjoining 
city of Allegheny, and boroughs of Manchester, Birmingham, Law- 
renceville, and other suburban dependencies, which, although not 
within the city proper, yet so far as general business interests are 
concerned, may be considered as belonging to the same community. 
Many of the large manufacturing establishments are located in 
these suburbs, and have their warehouses, owners or agents with- 
in the city proper, that being the place where the greater part of 
the business is transacted. 

According to the census of 1840, the city of Pittsburg contained 
a population of 21,115, Allegheny, 10,089; and including the 
boroughs above mentioned and the thickly peopled districts around, 
it may be assumed that the total population of this community of 
Pittsburg is not less than 40,000. 

The interests of this community, like those of all large towns, 
are essentially manufacturing and commercial; but in no town in 
the United States, of the same population, is so large a portion of 
the inhabitants engaged in manufactures. It is to her advantages 
as a manufacturing town that we are mainly to attribute her rapid 
increase in wealth and population. 

Pittsburg and its suburbs contain 1 1 iron foundries and steam 
engine manufactories, 8 rolling mills and manufactories of bar iron 
and nails, 8 glass works, 6 cotton factories, 3 steel factories, 3 steam 
flouring mills, 6 steam saw-mills, 2 extensive rope walks, an oil 
floor cloth manufactory, extensive smith shops, plough, carriage- 



ALLEGHENY COUNTY. 173 

and wagon factories, establishments for boat building, and for the 
manufacture of leather, hats, caps, paper, cabinet furniture, and a 
vast variety of other useful and fancy articles. 

The position of this city, at the head of the Ohio river and at the 
termination of the Pennsylvania canal, — commanding also the 
trade of those two noble rivers, the Allegheny and Monongahela, 
— also ensure to it advantages as a commercial place, equalled by 
few others. Of the steamboats employed on the Ohio and the 
contiguous rivers, 89 in number, amounting to 12,436 tons, are 
owned either wholly or in part at Pittsburg. 

The new court house is a splendid edifice, situated on Grant's 
Hill, at an elevation which commands an extensive view of the 
three rivers, with the hills, valleys, towns and villages in the 
neighbourhood. The building is 165 feet long, and 100 feet wide; 
having in the rear a spacious and well constructed prison. The 
architecture is of the Doric order, and the building is surmounted 
by a dome 37 feet in diameter at the base, the top of which is 148 
feet above the level of the street. This court house was about five 
years in the progress of erection, and cost nearly $200,000. 

The Western Penitentiary is in Allegheny city, and is a good 
specimen of prison architec-ture in the Gothic style. It contains 
separate cells for the purpose of solitary confinement j and is ma- 
naged with a view to the moral culture and reformation, as well as 
the punishment of the guilty. 

The Presbyterian Theological Seminary is also in Allegheny 
city, built upon a commanding eminence, and is 140 feet long, by 
50 feet wide; the central part being four, and the wings three 
stories high. 

The Western University, the Orphan Asylum, the Third Pres- 
byterian church, and several of the banks, as well as the two noble 
hotels, the Exchange Hotel and the Monongahela House, are also 
worthy of notice, as extensive and well constructed buildings. 

There are in Pittsburg and its environs, 55 places of public 
worship, belonging to different denominations, viz. Presbyterian 
20, Baptist 4, Roman Catholic 3, Episcopalian 5, Associate and 
Associate Reformed 6, Lutheran 2, Congregationalist 2, Disciples 
2, Church of God, Unitarian, German Protestant, and German Re- 
formed one each, Welsh 3, Coloured 4. 

The theological seminaries are three : The Western Theological 
Seminary of the Presbyterian church, which has three professors, 
a library of about 6000 volumes, and has connected with it a large 
work shop for manual labour, 2. The Theological Seminary of 
the Associate Reformed church, which also has a valuable library 
and a commodious lecture room. 3. The Allegheny Theological 
Institute, organized in 1840 by the General Synod of the Reformed 
Presbyterian church. It is intended to erect a large edifice in Alle- 
gheny city, for the accommodation of this Institute. 

Associations for the promotion of religious, moral and charitable 
objects are numerous in Pittsburg, Allegheny and the neighbour- 
ing districts. The cause of temperance has no where more ear- 
nest and untiring advocates, and perhaps in no place have their 

15* 



174 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

efforts been crowned with more success. Literature and science 
are not neglected : ten or twelve associations or institutes for the 
promotion and diffusion of useful knowledge have been organized; 
several of which have libraries and reading rooms, and in some 
of them courses of lectures are delivered on scientific and literary 
subjects. 

Banks and Insurance Companies. Bank of Pittsburg, capital $1, 
200,000 ; Merchants & Manufacturers' Bank, capital $600,000 ; 
Exchange Bank, capital $1,000,000; Farmer's Deposh Bank, 
capital $200,000, with privilege to increase to $500,000. Insurance : 
Pittsburg Navigation and Fire Insurance Co., capital $250,000, in 
shares of $100 each; Fireman's Insurance Co., capital $250,000, 
in shares of $25 each ; Office of Beaver County Insurance Co., 
capital $40,000, in shares of $50 each; Office of American Fire 
Insurance Co. of Philadelphia ; Office of Philadelphia Fire and 
Inland Navigation Insurance Co. 

The Pittsburg Waterworks were first put in operation in 1827, 
and a large part of the city is now supplied with pure and whole- 
some water from the Allegheny river. This is raised by means 
of a powerful engine into a reservoir above the level of the city, 
from which it is distributed by pipes laid through the streets. 
Works are in progress by which the utility of this invaluable pub- 
lic improvement will be very much extended. The number of 
feet of pipe, of different sizes, laid for the conveyance of water 
from these works is upwards of 51 ,000, or rather more than 9^ miles. 

The gas works were erected in 1836, and are under the direction 
of twelve trustees, elected by the city councils. Afi the principal 
streets are now lighted with gas, and its benefits are soon to be 
extended more widely. The coal of Pittsburg is well adapted to 
the production of gas, and in no place are there greater natural 
facilities for obtaining this cheap and brilHant light. 

There are six daily and twelve weekly newspapers published in 
Pittsburg, beside some religious, and other periodicals. Three of 
the newspapers are printed in the German language. The people 
are generally well informed and intelligent, and care is taken to 
promote the improvement of children and youth by means of com- 
mon and Sunday schools, the good effects of which are visible 
among all classes of the rising generation. There are few places 
of the same population where there is less drunkenness and vice, 
or more regard for the interests of religion and morality. The 
people of this place and its vicinity deserve the reputation which 
they so extensively enjoy for industry. It has become proverbial 
that '* the idler can find no company in Pittsburg." The effect of 
this persevering and unwearied industry and application to busi- 
ness, upon individual as w^ell as general prosperity, is well illus- 
trated by the fact that many of the citizens who are at present en- 
joying handsome fortunes were once labourers in the furnaces 
which they now own ; and some who were not long since driving 
drays now ride in their own carriages. The advantages of a man's 
owii individual exertion in raising himself to competence and a re- 
spectable station in society, have been truly exemphfied in this place. 



ALLEGHENY COUNTY. 175 

Within the bounds of this county, besides the city of Pittsburg 
and the adjacent places already named, are Elizabethtown, M^Kees- 
port, Sharpshurg, Bakerstown, East Liberty, Stewartstown, JYobles- 
town, and other thriving villages. The three first named are in- 
corporated boroughs. 

The agricultural products of Allegheny county are wheat, rye, 
oats, indiaa corn, potatoes, &c., with some barley and buckwheat. 
Flax and wool are also produced in considerable quantity. 

Coal is the great staple mineral product, of which it is estimated 
that from eleven to twelve millions of bushels are mined annually. 

This county contains 92 flouring and grist mills, and 81 saw 
mills. About 45,000 barrels of flour are manufactured annually. 
The other principal manufactures of the county have been noticed 
in our account of Pittsburg. 

The value of real and personal estate assessed for county pur- 
poses in Allegheny is $13,475,619; county tax $75,921; State 
tax $17,507. The assessed valuation of property is, however, be- 
lieved to be very considerably below the real value. 

The Western Division of the Pennsylvania canal enters this 
county on the west side of the Allegheny river, about 30 miles above 
Pittsburg, and passing down on the same side, until opposite the 
city, is there taken across the river by a splendid aqueduct 1,200 
feet long, built by the State at a cost of $104,000. After passing 
through a tunnel under Grant's Hill, this canal terminates at the 
Monongahela river. Another branch of the canal continues 
through Allegheny city, and debouches into the Allegheny river a 
feAv hundred yards above the head of the Ohio. 

Beside the aqueduct already mentioned, there are three bridges, 
each about 1,200 feet long, across the Allegheny river, connecting 
the cities of Pittsburg and Allegheny. There is also a bridge over 
the Monongahela river, 1 ,500 feet in length, forming a communi- 
cation between Pittsburg and Birmingham. 

Several turnpike roads pass in different directions through this 
county, which, together with most of the common roads, are kept 
in tolerable repair. 

The attention which is given to the cause of education in Pitts- 
burg and its vicinity has been already mentioned. The common 
school system is in general operation throughout the county, which 
has 33 school districts, maintaining 230 schools. Each of the five 
wards in the city of Pittsburg has its public school house, in which 
the male and female departments are under separate teachers. In 
the third ward is also a public school for the instruction of coloured 
children. These schools are kept open for about eleven months in 
the year: but in the country districts the average time which the 
schools are in operation does not exceed six or seven months. The 
Teachers' Lyceum of Allegheny county is an institution having 
for its object the improvement of teachers, and the general diff"usioa 
of knowledge. 

This county has its share of historical interest, and in perusing 
the accounts of the old French and Indian wars we shall find it 
the scene of many a memorable event. Here Washington, when 



176 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

but a youth, visited the Indians at Shannapin's town^ and spent 
several days with them at Logstown. On his return from Le 
BcEuf, on foot, in the end of December, he and his companion 
came near perishing when crossing the Allegheny river at the 
head of Herr's Island. Their frail raft was broken by the drifting 
ice, and the future preserver of his country, together with his only 
companion, sank up to their necks in the freezing stream. They 
finally extricated themselves, but suffered intensely until they 
reached Frazier's at the mouth of Turtle creek, a distance of nine 
or ten miles. In this county is the memorable field where the gal- 
lant but imprudent Braddock, with his ill-fated host, were destroyed 
by the savages, and the bones of the slain, and other rehcs of the 
fight are yet found by the ploughman and the curious visiter. 
Here La Fayette, in 1825, landed from a skiff and walked over the 
bloody field where the illustrious friend of his youth first distin- 
guished himself by his coolness and bravery. A few hillocks yet 
show the outline of that fort from which the hapless prisoners 
taken at Braddock's defeat were led to the stake. The territory 
which now forms this county has been the scene of many an In- 
dian outrage and many a pioneer adventure, a few only of which 
have been preserved from the oblivion of time. 

How is Allegheny county bounded ? Is the surface level or hilly ? What 
is the most valuable mineral production ? How is the principal coal bed 
situated, — and what is said of its extent and thickness ? Mention the prin- 
cipal strata of limestone and building stone. Describe the several varieties 
of soil. What is said of the climate ? What three rivers are in this county ? 
What is said of the Allegheny, its navigation and trade ? Of the Monon- 
gahela? Of the Ohio? What other streams are mentioned? What is 
the principal city and how situated ? Who first commenced the erection 
of a fort here, and what was it called after its capture by the French ? By 
whom was it retaken and what was it then named ? What remains of the 
old fortifications still exist ? What was the number of houses in 1775 ? In 
what year did the place begin to improve ? When was Allegheny county 
established, and to what had it previously belonged? In what year was 
Pittsburg incorporated as a borough, and when as a chy ? What city and 
towns are adjoining to and connected with Pittsburg ? AVhat is its popula- 
tion and that of Allegheny city ? Total of these cities and adjoining towns? 
Mention the principal manufacturing establishments and their number? 
What is said of the advantageous position of this city? What are the prin- 
cipal pubhc buildings ? Describe the new Court-house, the Western Peni- 
tentiary, &c. What theological seminaries are situated here? What is 
said of the religious, moral and literary institutions ? Banks and Insurance 
companies? Describe the Pittsburg water works. The gas works. How 
many newspapers are published ? What is said of the inhabitants and 
their general character for morality and industry? Name some of the 
other towns in Allegheny county. What are the chief productions of agri- 
culture ? The staple mineral product ? The manufacture of flour ? What 
is said of the canal and aqueduct ? The principal bridges ? Of the com- 
mon schools ? Mention some of the historical events connected with this 
county. 

3. Armstrong County. 

Armstrong county is bounded on the north by Clarion, east by 
Jefferson and Indiana, south by Westmoreland, and west by Butler. 



ARMSTRONG COUNTY. 177 

The total population, by the census of 1840, was 28,365; but a 
portion having been since laid off into the new county of Clarion, 
leaves the present number in Armstrong at about 19,255. 

The surface of this county is diversified, being generally what may 
be termed hilly or rolling. In some parts are large tracts of land 
which are unfit for cultivation ; others are suited only to the growth 
of timber; while extensive portions are found which may be 
classed among the richest lands in the State. The alluvial bottoms 
along the streams are highly prized for their fertility, and are 
generally thickly settled and cultivated. 

The Allegheny river passes nearly in a direction from north to 
south through the western part of this county, and is navigable 
for steamboats from Pittsburg to Warren, in Warren county. 
Red Bank creek forms the northern boundary of Armstrong county. 
Mahoning creek, a large tributary of the Allegheny, falls into that 
river 10 miles above Kittaning. Cowanshannock and Crooked 
creeks flow westward and empty into the Allegheny, the former 
two miles above, and the latter six miles below Kittaning. Crooked 
creek affords a number of excellent mill seats, and has on it six 
large flouring mills in operation. The Kiskiminetas river, which 
forms the southern boundary of the county, is one of the largest 
tributaries of the Allegheny, and is noted for the salt works in its 
vicinity. That portion of the county which lies west of the Al- 
legheny river is watered by Buffalo creek, Avhich flows southward, 
affording water power for a number of mills, and empties into the 
Allegheny two miles below the mouth of the Kiskiminetas. 

This county lies within the great bituminous coal formation, 
and contains beds of coal, limestone and iron ore, which are 
rapidly adding wealth and importance to the county, as they are 
brought into productive usefulness. The want of capital, how- 
ever, has hitherto retarded the developement of the mineral re- 
sources of this region, until the recent erection of furnaces and 
other manufacturing establishments, which now begin to give 
promise of the future wealth to be derived from the formerly ne- 
glected hills of Armstrong. 

The salt works on the Allegheny and Kiskiminetas rivers form 
an important item in the productions of this county. The wells 
for obtaining the salt-water are generally bored from 500 to 650 
feet deep, being three inches in diameter for the first 200 feet, and 
the remainder two inches. Copper tubes are inserted,' which have 
a band of leather filled with flax, tied around them above the point 
at which the vein of salt-water is reached. This fills the hole 
around the tube and prevents the fresh water above from mingling 
with the salt-water below. The brine is pumped from these lubes, 
by steam power, into a large reservoir, from which it flows into 
the boihng pans. After boiling for some time the brine is turned 
off into a cooling vat, where a sediment settles from it ; it next 
passes into the graining pan, where after evaporation, the salt re- 
mains in the bottom. These pans are of iron, eight feet wide and 
twenty feet long, and are placed over furnaces in which the re- 
quisite heat is maintained. Each establishment consumes from 



178 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

175 to 200 bushels of coal daily, and employs four or five men. 
The cost of boring a well and erecting the requisite works is about 
$3,500 ; and the quantity of salt made from a well varies from 
1000 to 5000 barrels yearly. The whole amount of salt manu- 
factured annually within the county is about 320,000 bushels. 

Kittanmir, the county town, is situated on the east side of the 
Allegheny river, forty miles north-east from Pittsburg. Popula- 
tion in 1840, 1,323. It has a court-house, a prison, an academy, 
and several churches. Coal is abundant in the neighbourhood of 
the town. Kittaning is built upon the site of an old Indian village 
of the same name, which was taken and burnt during the French 
and Indian war by Col. Armstrong. About forty Indians were 
killed in the attack, a number of English prisoners were released, 
and by this well-timed and successful enterprise, an expedition 
which had been planned by the French and Indians against the 
frontier settlements was prevented. 

Freeport is a thriving town, in the southern part of the county, 
situated on the Allegheny river, sixteen miles below Kittaning, and 
twenty-eight from Pittsburg. It contains five churches, two steam 
woollen factories, and a steam saw-mill. The Western Division 
of the Pennsylvania canal passes through the town, and it is the 
principal depot for merchandise coming from the eastward for the 
supply of Armstrong and the other northern counties bordering on 
the Allegheny river. Population 826. 

Leechbiirg is a flourishing place, situated on the canal, 35 miles 
from Pittsburg and 15 from Kittaning. At this place there is a 
large dam built across the Kiskiminetas river, 27 feet high and 
574 feet long, constructed for the purpose of feeding the canal 
from that point to Pittsburg. This forms an immense water 
power, which belongs to the State, and is not improved. If brought 
into use it would make Leechburg a place of much importance in 
manufactures. 

This county contains also Warren, Middletown, Lawrenceburg, 
Worthington, and other rising towns and villages, with a popula- 
tion of from 100 to 250 inhabitants. 

The agricultural productions are those common to the other 
western counties of the State, and much of the soil is well adapted 
to the raising of grain, large quantities of which are sent from the 
southern part of the county to supply the eastern market. Cattle 
and sheep are raised in great numbers. Within the last few years 
a superior breed of sheep have been introduced into the country, 
by which it is believed that wool will before long become one of 
the staple productions. 

There are four furnaces for the manufacture of iron now in 
operation. Two of these are in Franklin township ; one in Sugar 
creek, which is one of the largest furnaces in the State, and con- 
nected with which, near the mouth of Sugar creek, is an extensive 
rolling mill ; both under the control of an incorporated company. 
The other furnace is in Madison township, near which is said to 
be a very large bed of cannel coal. 

The value of property assessed for county purposes in 1842 was 
$2,121,352; county tax, $7,592; state tax $2,308. 



BEAVER COUNTY. 179 

The Pennsylvania canal passes along the whole southern bound- 
ary of this county, a distance of 25 miles. 

A tolerable turnpike road passes through Kittaning to Butler; 
and the common roads are kept in as good order as is usual in the 
western counties. 

There is an academy at Kittaning, and the system of education 
by common schools is general throughout the county. There are 
14 school districts, and 129 common schools, but they are kept 
open only about four months on an average during the year. 

The population of Armstrong county is of a mixed description. 
Many of the inhabitants are of German and Irish descent, — prin- 
cipally settlers from Westmoreland and the neighbouring counties. 

By what counties is Armstrong bounded? Describe the face of the 
country and soil. The principal streams. What valuable mineral produc- 
tions ? How is salt water obtained i In what manner is salt manufac- 
tured from it ? What is the county town and how situated ? Where is 
Freeport ? Leechburg ? What other villages in the county ? What is 
said of the agricultural productions, &c. ? Of the iron manufactures? Canal 
and turnpike roads ? Education ? Of the inhabitants ? 

4. Beaver County. 

Beaver county adjoins the states of Virginia and Ohio on the 
west, Mercer county on the north, Butler on the east, Allegheny 
on the south-east, and Washington on the south. Population 
29,368. 

The surface is generally rolling rather than hilly, with steep and 
precipitous ascents from the valleys of the principal water courses. 
The alluvial soil of the bottom lands is highly fertile, and most of 
the upland is adapted to the production of grain and for the graz- 
ing of cattle and sheep. Agriculture here is in a flourishing 
state, and among its other pursuits considerable attention has been 
bestowed upon the cultivation of the mulberry for silk, and the 
vine for grapes. 

The Ohio river flows across the southern part of Beaver county, 
and in the north the Mahoning and Shenango unite and form Beaver 
river, which flows southward nearly through the middle of the 
county, and empties into the Ohio near the town of Beaver. In 
the east are Slippery-rock and Coneqiienessing creeks, both con- 
siderable streams, Avhich unite their waters and flow westward 
into Beaver river. On Beaver river, within five miles from its 
junction with the Ohio, is a succession of falls and rapids, having 
an aggregate descent of 69 feet, and affording an immense water 
power for manufacturing and mechanical purposes. 

Valuable and extensive beds of bituminous coal, with strata of 
limestone, occur in almost every part of the county. Near Greens- 
burg is a bed of cannel coal about eight feet thick, resting upon 
three feet of ordinary bituminous coal. This cannel coal is light, 
compact, ignites with great facility, and burns with a strong bright 
flame. 

Beaver is the county town, situated on an elevated plain near 



180 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

the junction of Beaver river with the Ohio. It is an incorporated 
borough;, and contains 551 inhabitants. Its pubhc buildings are 
a court-house and county offices of brick, a stone prison, a bank, 
an academy and several churches. This town, though pleasantly 
situated, has not improved so rapidly as many other places in the 
same neighbourhood. 

Bridgewater is situated on the west side of Beaver river, imme- 
diately at its junction with the Ohio, being connected with Ro- 
chester, on the opposite side of the Beaver, by a handsome and 
substantial bridge. 

Fallston is a flourishing manufacturing town, at the foot of the 
falls of Beaver river, and thence deriving its name. A race has 
been constructed here, a mile and a half in length, by which the 
water is conducted to the wheels of a row of manufacturing estab- 
lishments of various kinds, such as woollen factories, flour mifls, 
saw mills, oil mills, paper mills and other industrial operations in 
wnich water power may be usefully employed. In the rear of 
this town is a bed of excellent coal, so conveniently situated that 
the fuel may be slid from the mouth of the mines into the kitchen 
yards of many of the houses. 

On the opposite side of the river, and connected with Fallston 
by a handsome permanent bridge, is the village of JVew Brighton, 
where the water power is also immense, and various mills and 
factories have already been erected. 

Brighton, on the west side of Beaver river, four miles above the 
Ohio, is a beautiful and flourishing place, commanding unlimited 
water power from the river, with a fall of about twenty feet. 
Here is a flouring mill capable of manufacturing 200 barrels 
of flour per day ; an extensive cotton manufactory, and a large 
paper mill constructed upon the most approved plan. There is a 
tannery, and also a number of mechanical estabhshments. 

Sharon is a thriving village on the west side of Beaver river, 
about a mile from the Ohio, having an iron foundry ; an extensive 
establishment for the manufacture of patent tubs and buckets ; 
boat yards for the construction of keel and canal boats, and various 
other manufacturing concerns. 

Freedom, a village on the Ohio, about a mile above the mouth 
of Beaver, has several manufactories, among which is one for 
steam engines and boilers j and a boat yard for the building of 
steamboats. 

Economy is a German settlement on the north-east bank of the 
Ohio, 18 miles below Pittsburg. The town contains about 100 
houses, and is situated on a beautiful plain about 80 feet above the 
river. This town, together with a tract of land containing between 
3,000 and 4,000 acres, is the property of the "Harmony Society," 
who, under the direction of George Rapp, emigrated from Ger- 
many about the year 1805, and first settled at Harmony in Butler 
county. From this place they removed to the banks of the Wa- 
bash, in the state of Indiana, Avhere they cleared a large tract of 
land, built a town, and estabhshed various manufactories. Here 
they remained about ten years • but finding the climate unhealthy 



BEAVER COUNTY. 181 

they resolved to return to Pennsylvania, and in 1825 established 
themselves in their present location, where by the exercise of their 
peculiar habits of enterprise, industry and economy, they soon 
succeeded in founding a flourishing and beautiful settlement. 

Their property is held in common as the general and indivisible 
stock of the society, and all persons who may unite with them and 
add their property to the common stock, are permitted, if they 
quit the community, to withdraw the principal without interest. 
They have a woollen manufactory, propelled by steam, in which 
from 70,000 to 80,000 pounds of wool are annually converted into 
broad cloth, satinet, flannel and blankets of superior quality. Their 
cotton. manufactory and grist mill are also driven by steam; in the 
former about 300 bales of cotton are used in a year. Within the 
last few years their attention has been directed to the culture and 
production of silk, which in 1840 amounted to 2,389 pounds, being 
manufactured into silk goods of various descriptions. 

Most of the ordinary branches of mechanical industry are like- 
wise carried on, as well for their own use and comfort as also for 
the accommodation of their country neighbours of the adjoining 
settlements, with whom a considerable business is transacted by 
way of sale and exchange. 

In the lower story of a brick building, 120 by 60 feet, they have 
an extensive museum of natural curiosities, a large number of 
paintings, and a fine collection of mineral specimens. The upper 
story of this building consists of one spacious room, in which the 
whole society on certain occasions dine together, as on the cele- 
bration of their yearly harvest home, the anniversary of their asso- 
ciation, and other days of importance to them. 

They have a large brick church in which they meet for worship 
twice on Sunday, and on one evening during the week. Their 
leader delivers a discourse in the German language, which is 
generally spoken among them, although many of them understand 
and speak English. A large and commodious school house is 
erected for the education of their children : they have a physician 
of their own, and an apothecary shop for the supply of medicines. 
A large and well arranged hotel is kept under the direction of the 
society, in which travellers and visiters are accommodated ; and a 
post office is kept for the convenience of the settlement. 

Their large flocks of domestic animals, horses, cattle, sheep and 
swine, are of good stock, and being well managed and carefully pro- 
vided for, may be regarded as among the best in the western country. 

In their agricultural operations they are surpassed by few, if 
any : their fields, meadows, orchards, vineyards, nurseries of fruit 
trees and gardens, are among the best in the country, and form a 
pleasing subject of admiration to the many travellers who visit this 
interesting place. 

Each department or branch of business is under the direction 
of a foreman or superintendent, whose duty it is to see that every 
thing is properly performed according to the standing rules and 
regulations of the society, and to do justice and act impartially to 
all the members in the distribution of all the necessaries of life. 

16 



182 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

This little community presents a pleasing and instructive ex- 
ample of the advantages derived from habits of industry, morality 
and strict adherence to sound religious principles. They show 
how much the sum of human misery may be lessened by dwelling 
in harmony, unanimity and peace ; and how greatly the happi- 
ness of the human family may be promoted by the combined and 
benevolent action of both heart and hand. 

Considering the limited extent of its territory, and the compara- 
tively recent date of its settlement, Beaver county deserves favour- 
able notice for the rapidity of its improvement, and for the variety 
and value of its productions of agricultural and manufacturing in- 
dustry. It possesses the advantages of a healthy climate and a 
fertile soil; it abounds with timber and coal; its streams afford 
water power to an incalculable amount, and it possesses the facili- 
ties of a direct water communication with the east, west, north 
and south for at least three fourths of the year. 

The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal extends through 
the county, from the mouth of Beaver river to Newcastle in Mercer 
county, where it connects with the Erie extension, forming, on 
the completion of the latter work, a direct communication from the 
Ohio river to Lake Erie. The Mahoning, or Pennsylvania and 
Ohio canal, connects the Beaver division of the Pennsylvania 
works with the Ohio canal at Akron ; and the Sandy and Beaver 
Canal connects the same works by way of Little Beaver and Sandy 
rivers, forming a junction with the Ohio canal at Bolivar. 

The assessed value of property in Beaver county, subject to tax- 
ation in 1842, was $4,047,701 ; county tax $9,054; State tax $5,228. 

The system of education by common schools is general through- 
out the county. It contains 23 school districts, in which 162 
schools are in operation, under the provisions of the law regulating 
the common school system. According to the reports made to the 
superintendent, they are kept open but about five months in the 
year on a general average. There is an academy in the town of 
Beaver. 

There are about 30 places for public worship in the county, be- 
longing to various religious denominations, of which the Presby- 
terians and Methodists are most numerous. Sunday schools are 
established in the towns and villages, and there are several Bible, 
missionary and tract societies, as well as other moral and benevo- 
lent associations. 

The early settlers were mostly adventurers from other parts of 
Pennsylvania, attracted by the natural advantages possessed by 
this region. Some emigrants from the north of Ireland and from 
Germany have settled here, and the population is steadily increas- 
ing by new accessions from various sources. 

How is Beaver county bounded ? What is said of the face of the coun- 
try and soil ? Describe the principal streams. What are the valuable 
mineral productions ? Name the county town, its situation, public build- 
ings, &c. What towns are at the mouth of Beaver river ? Where is 
Fallston, and what manufactories are estabhshed there ? New Brighton ? 
Brighton ? Sharon ? Freedom ? How is Economy situated, and by whom 



BEDFORD COUNTY. 183 

settled ? How is the property owned in this place ? What branches of 
manufacture are carried on ? What are the pubhc buildings belonging to 
the society, and for what purposes used ? What is said of their agriculture 
and domestic animals? In what manner is their business conducted? 
What is said of the habits of this people ? What are the general advan- 
tages of Beaver county ? Describe the canals here and their connexion 
with others. What is said of education and the common schools ? Places 
of worship and religious denominations ? By whom has the county been 
chiefly settled ? 

5. Bedford County. 

Bedford is bounded on the west by Somerset and Cambria, 
north by Huntingdon, east by Franklin, and south by the State of 
Maryland. Population 29,335. 

The face of the country is mountainous and uneven; many 
high ridges pass across the county in a direction nearly north and. 
south, Avhich are separated by deep valleys of unequal breadth. 
The most eastern of tiiese mountain ridges is the Cove or Tuscarora 
mountain, which separates Bedford from Franklin : on the west of 
this is Scrub Ridge, of inferior height and extent. The next prin- 



View of Cove Mountain from Scrub Ridge. 

cipal mountain on the westward is Sideling Hill, which extends 
from the Maryland line across Bedford county, and into Hunting- 
don as far as to the Juniata river. Next is the huge irregular eleva- 
tion called Broad Top, across Avhich the northern line of the 
county passes, leaving nearly half of it in Huntingdon, South of 
Broad Top are Harbour mountain, Ray^s Hill, Clear Ridge, and 
other ranges extending southward into Maryland. West of these is 
JVarrior ridge, and next Tkissey^s mountain, stretching quite across 



184 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

the county, and ihence northward through Huntingdon and Centre, 
towards the West branch of Susquehanna. Further west are 
Dunningh, EviVs and WiW mountains, and beyond these the 
great Allegheny, which forms part of the western boundary of the 

county. 

Bedford county is well watered, though it contains no large 
streams. The Raystown branch of the Juniata and its many tribu- 
tary creeks drain most of the northern and interior portions. la 
the south are numerous streams which flow southward into the 
Potomac. Every valley has its stream, fed by mountain springs, 
and these uniting furnish water power to a vast amount beyond 
that which is actually employed. 

This county presents considerable variety and intricacy in the details of 
its geological features. All the rock formations which we have described 
as intervening between the lower limestone (II) and the coal bearing strata 
(XIII,) with both these included, may be found within its jDorders. Our 
limits will not permit a full description of the various ranges, foldings and 
doublings of these formations throughout the county ; it will be sufficient 
merely to mention some of the places where the rocks of each occur, in 
order to give a general view of their positions. 

The lowest formation which appears in the county is the limestone (II) 
seen in Morrison's cove, Friends' cove, on the west of Tussey's mountain, 
and about M'Connellstown in the east of the county. The next overlying 
formation of slate (III) will be found accompanying the limestone, usually 
near the base of the mountain ridges bounding the limestone valleys. The 
sandstone next above (IV) is seen on the Cove mountain, and on Tussey's, 
Dunning's, Evit's and Wills' mountains; and the red and variegated 
shales (V) along the sides of these ridges towards which the mountain 
sandstone dips below these shales. But, as in Wills' mountain, where an 
anticUnal axis causes the sandstone strata to dip towards both sides of the 
moimtain, the red shale will be found on both sides. This formation is 
also seen in Pigeon cove, a httle valley in the south-east of the county, 
adjoinmg Maryland ; the centre of the valley being of these shales, bounded 
by the limestone of the next formation. This hmestone (VI) is found east 
of Tussey's mountain, crossing the Juniata at Bloody Run; and also about 
the tow^n of Bedford, from which it extends on the west of Evit's mountain 
to the Maryland line. Another long narrow belt of the same limestone, 
ranges from the southern boundary of the State up Wills' creek on the 
west of Wills' mountain, stretching north-eastward quite across the county 
to the Juniata near Holhdaysburg. The fossiliferous sandstone (VII) will 
generally be found to accompany the limestone last mentioned, commonly 
forming sharp rough hills along the side of the valley which contains the 
limestone. The dark and olive coloured slates, with the gray and red 
sandstones and red shales of the next two formations (VIII and IX) occupy 
most of the country between Scrub Ridge and Sideling hill, and also from 
the latter to Warrior Ridge. In the w^estern part of the county there is 
also a broad belt of these formations extending from the limestone and 
fossiliferous sandstone to the Allegheny mountain. The coarse gray sand- 
stone of the next formation (X) is7ound on Sideling hill, Ray's Hill, Har- 
bour mountain, and on the eastern front of the Allegheny. The red shale 
(XI) next below the coal measures, is seen at the base of Broad Top in 
Wells' Valley, and westward in Ground Hog valley. The sandstone (XII) 
which lies immediately below the coal of the Broad Top region, differs 
from the general character of the same formation below the other coal 
measures of the State, having less of the pebbly conglomerate character, 
and more resembling the sandstones between the coal beds themselves. 
Broad Top mountain, only a part of which is in this county, is a broad 



BEDFORD COUNTY. 185 

irregular plateau, having several spurs running out towards the bounding 
valleys. Beds of coal have been opened on it in many places, and have 
been found to be from three to eight feet thick, yielding coal of good 
quaUty, though less bituminous than that west of the Allegheny mountain. 
This region nas been but imperfectly explored, and the number of coal 
seams, with their extent and relative positions, has not been fully ascertained. 

Iron ore occurs in many parts of the county, and is extensively 
mined in several places for the supply of furnaces. 

This mountainous region presents a great variety in the charac- 
ter of its soil. Some of the valleys are very fertile, particularly 
those where limestone abounds; the uneven rolling country occu- 
pied by the slates, shales and red sandstones, is less productive, and a 
considerable part of the county consists of rocky mountains and 
hills unfit for the purposes of agriculture. The quantity of land 
unfit for cultivation is estimated to be 131,200 acres. 

The climate is healthy, and somewhat colder than that of the 
less mountainous region in the south-eastern part of the State. 




View near Bedford. 

Bedford is the county town, situated near the head of the Rays- 
town branch of the Juniata, on the main turnpike from Philadel- 
phia to Pittsburg, and has a population of 1022. The buildings 
are mostly of stone or brick, and the town presents a neat and 
pleasing appearance. The court-house, county offices and prison 
are handsome well-buik edifices ; there are also churches for Pres- 
byterian, Lutheran, German Reformed, Methodist and Roman 
Catholic congregations. It is a place of some business, and the 
borough contains four grist mills and a woollen factory. 

Near this town are the celebrated Bedford Springs, the water of 
which has been found to have a henefi.cial effect in many com- 

16* 



186 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

plaints. They are much resorted to by invalids, and during the 
summer season even by the healthy, who quit the toils of business 
in the cities to invigorate their frames by breathing the pure moun- 
tain air, and by healthful excursions among the w^ild and beautiful 
scenery of the surrounding country. The buildings for the accom- 
modation of strangers are large and commodious; the grounds 
about the springs are tastefully ornamented with neat bridges, 
railings and gravel Avalks ; and few places of the kind present more 
agreeable attractions to the invalid, the citizen, or the traveller. 

M' Connellstoum, in the eastern part of the county, on the Cham- 
bersburg and Bedford turnpike, is an incorporated borough con- 
taming 486 inhabitants. 

Martinsburg is also a borough, situated in Morrison's Cove in 
the north of the county, with a population of 422. 

Shellsburg is a borough, on the turnpike, nine miles west of 
Bedford, with 316 inhabitants. 

Several villages of some note are situated in different parts of 
the county, among which are Woodbury, Stonerstoivn, Rainsbnrg 
and Freedom. 

The principal productions of this county are those of agricul- 
ture. Of its manufactures that of iron is the most important ; five 
blast furnaces and nine forges are in operation within the county. 
There are 47 flour and grist mills, a great number of saw-mills, 
and five woollen factories. Timber is very abundant, the nume- 
rous mountain ridges being covered with forest trees which supply 
the saw mills, the iron works, and fuel for domestic consumption. 
The sugar maple tree is common in many places, and a consider- 
able quantity of sugar is made by the inhabitants for their 
own use. 

The value of real and personal property, subject to taxation for 
county purposes, was assessed in 1842 at $3,280,982 : county tax, 
$9,482; State tax, $4,119. 

This county has no canals or rail roads. The turnpike from 
Philadelphia to Pittsburg passes through it from east to west; and 
a little beyond the town of Bedford the turnpike to Somerset 
branches fropa it. The common roads, in such a mountainous re- 
gion as this, are usually rough and in a state of but indifferent 
repair. Travelling in wheel carriages, except on the turnpikes or 
the more frequented roads, is unpleasant, difficult, and sometimes 
dangerous. 

The advancement of popular education has been much ne- 
glected among the people of this county; but it is believed that 
Avithin the last few years an increased attention to this subject is 
apparent. It is pleasing to observe that in this, as well as other 
parts of the State where the interests of education have hitherto 
received but little encouragement, an awakening spirit of improve- 
ment is manifest. An increase in the number, and an improve- 
ment in the character of common schools is the best evidence of a 
just appreciation of the benefits derived from a proper system of 
instruction. 

Bedford county contains 25 school districts, of which 22 have 



BERKS COUNTY. 187 

accepted the provisions of the school law, and 21 of these have 
made reports to the superintendent, showing the number of 
schools in operation to be 177, and that 13 are yet required. 
These schools are, however, taught but about five months in the 
year on an average ; the children thus losing not only much of 
their time, but, with the easy facility of youth, forgetting while at 
home most of that Avhich they had previously learned in school. 

There is an academy in the town of Bedford, but it does not 
meet with sufficient encouragement to maintain it in a very flou- 
rishing condition. 

Of the religious denominations in this county, the Methodists 
are most numerous; next are the German Reformed, Presbyte- 
rians and Lutherans. There are also some Baptists, Roman Ca- 
tholics and Friends. 

.The inhabitants are mostly descendants of German and Irish fa- 
milies, some of whom settled here at an early day and encountered 
many of the dangers, difficulties and privations incident to the 
pioneers of civilization in a wild region ; exposed to the incursions 
of hostile Indians and to the treachery and cruelty of savage 
warfare. 

What are the boundaries of Bedford county ? Describe the face of the 
country and the principal ranges of mountains. What is said of the 
streams ? In what parts of the county is the lower limestone formation 
(II) observed ? Where does the other limestone (VI) occur ? Of what 
character is the coal of this county and where found ? Iron ore ? What is 
said of the soil ? Of the climate ? What is the county town and how si- 
tuated ? What is said of Bedford springs? How are M'Connellstown, 
Martinsburg and Shellsburg situated ? What other villages in the county ? 
"What are the most important productions and manufactures? Mention 
the turnpikes and the condition of the common roads. What is said of the 
state of education and of the common schools? What are the prevailing 
religious denominations? From what people are the inhabitants mostly 
descended ? 

6. Berks County. 

Berks is bounded on the north-west by Schuylkill county, on 
the north-east by Lehigh, on the south-east by Montgomery, on 
the south by Chester, and on the south-west by Lancaster. Popu- 
lation 64,569. 

The face of the country presents an agreeable variety of aspect, 
being in some parts mountainous or hilly, and in others undulat- 
ing, diversified or level. The southern part of the county is tra- 
versed by that irregular chain of hills called the South mountain; 
and in the northern part are some ridges of considerable elevation. 
The Blue or Kittatiny mountain forms the northern line of the 
county, dividing it from Schuylkill. For variety and beauty of 
scenery this county is inferior to few in the State. The views 
from Mount Penn and JSeversink, in the neighbourhood of Reading, 
present a varied and extended landscape, in which are harmoni- 
ously blended the different features of the woody mountain, the 
cuhivated valley, the winding river, and the busy town, forming 
a picture which for richness and variety is seldom equalled. 



188 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The river Schuylkill flows through this county in a south-east- 
ern direction, entering it through a gap in the Blue mountain 
above Hamburg, and passing by Reading becomes the Hne be- 
tween Montgomery and Chester a few miles above Pottsgrove. 
Several of its large tributary creeks flow through Berks county, 
among the most considerable of which is the Tulpehocken, flow- 
ing eastward from Lebanon county through the western part of 
Berks, and emptying into the Schuylkill a Uttle above Reading. 
Maiden creek is in the north-eastern part of the county, and flows 
southward to the Schuylkill six miles above Reading. Manataw- 
ny creek in the south-east, runs southward and falls into the 
Schuylkill near Pottsgrove in Montgomery county. Some of the 
smaller creeks are Sacony, a branch of Maiden creek; J\'orthkillj 
which falls into the Tulpehocken near Bernville ; Cacoosing and 
Spring creeks, also branches of the Tulpehocken ; and Allegheny 
and Mcmokesy creeks, which empty into the Schuylkill below 
Reading. AU these, together with numerous smaller streams, fur- 
nish an abundance of water power for mills and manufacturing 
purposes, and their lesser branches supply the country with a suf- 
ficiency of water for the Avants of agriculture. 

The geological character of the county is various in its different parts. 
On the southern border is the red shale of the middle secondary series; in 
the upper or northern portion of this red shale the calcareous conglomerate 
rock called Potomac marble is abundant in several places, particularly near 
the Schuylkill below Reading. North of this are the hills of the South 
mountain range, which contain gneiss, sienite and other primary rocks, to- 
gether with the hard whitish sandstone which overlies the primary. Seve- 
ral of the little valleys interspersed between these hills contain irregular 
belts of limestone. Northward of this chain of hills is the great limestone 
formation of the Kittatiny valley, which extends along its south-eastern side 
from the Delaware river to the Maryland line ; and adjoining it on the north, 
reaching to the Blue mountain, is the slate formation next in position above 
the limestone, which is equally extensive in its range. At several places in 
Berks county the limestone contains belts of slate ot considerable thickness, 
and in the neighbourhood of Bernville and Womelsdorf the hmestone and 
slate formations appear to have no distinct Une of division, but alternating 
strata of both are found. A dike of trap rock extends northward across 
the limestone, east of Sinking spring, crossing the Tulpehocken near the 
mouth of Cacoosing creek, and extending northward into the slate region. 

Iron ore occurs in several parts of the county. At Mount Pleasant, in 
Colebrookdale township, the magnetic variety of ore has been mined to 
some extent, and is found in other places connected with the primary rocks. 
In Oley township, and near Boyerstown, are mines which were formerly 
worked for the supply of furnaces in that neighbourhood. Brown argilla- 
ceous iron ore occurs near Kutztown, and at Moselem it is extensively 
mined, as also near the Lebanon turnpike about eight miles west of Reading. 
A rock yielding hydraulic cement of good quality is found near the Schuyl- 
kill, from which that article is manufactured in considerable quantity for 
use. Copper ore occurs at several places within the county, but generally 
in such small quantity and so mixed with iron as to render the expediency 
of working it very doubtful. Near Morgantown is a mine of this character, 
which is riot at present in a productive state. 

The soil of Berks county is generally of good quality. About 
one-third of it is limestone land which is highly fertile and well 
cultivated. The red shale soil in the southern part of the county 



BERKS COUNTY. 



J89 



IS also favourable for agriculture, and many fine farms show its 
productive character when well tilled. The hills of primary rock 
are covered by a soil which, though rough and stony, is tolerably 
fertile, and if well farmed abundantly repays the labour of cultiva- 
tion. In the slate region between the limestone and the Blue 
mountain, the surface is rolling and hilly, with a soil of moderate 
fertility, being most productive where the slate is calcareous, or 
contains thin bands of limestone. 




View of Reading. 

Reading, the county town, is a flourishing place containing 
8,410 inhabitants. It is beautifully situated on a sloping plain be- 
tween Penn's mount and the eastern bank of the Schuylkill ; 52 
miles north-west from Philadelphia and the same distance east of 
Harrisburg. The streets intersect each other at right angles ; those 
most used are regularly graded and are covered with a hard white 
gravel, derived from the sandstone of the mountain east of the town, 
which forms a very compact, smooth, and durable road, superior 
to most paved or Mac Adamized streets. 

Several of the public buildings are large and handsome edifices. 
The new court house, finished in 1840, is superior to most others 
in the State. It is built of brick, with a noble portico of sandstone 
in front; and standing on elevated ground has an imposing aspect, 
commanding a view of the whole town and much of the surround- 
ing country. The German Lutheran church is a large and hand- 
some structure, said to be sufficiently capacious to contain a con- 
gregation of 1,500 persons. It is surmounted by a steeple 201 feet 
in height, one of the highest in the State. The German Reformed 
church, erected in 1832, is of brick, and has a steeple 151 feet high. 



190 GEOGRArHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

In addition to these there is a Presbyterian, an Episcopal, a Catho- 
lic, a Methodist, a Baptist, and a Universalist church, with an an- 
cient Meeting House for Friends, built of logs in 1766, and three 
African churches. There are two market houses, in which mar- 
ket is held twice a week; and 32 hotels and taverns in the borough. 
Seven weekly papers are published here, three of which are in the 
German language. 

Reading was formerly celebrated for the manufacture of wool 
hats, and the business is still carried on extensively ; but of latter 
years other branches of manufactures have so much increased as 
to have given this ancient trade but a secondary rank. Previous 
to 1836, hats, boots, shoes and stone ware were the principal 
manufactures; since that time estabhshments have been put in 
operation for rolling iron, making nails, casting in iron and brass, 
manufacturing locomotive and stationary steam engines, rifle bar- 
rels and augers ; — a steam saw and chopping mill, and several 
shops for the manufacture of thrashing machines, corn shellers, 
ploughs and other agricultural implements. There are also two 
flour mills in the borough, one of which is said to manufacture 
8000 barrels of flour annually. 

The town is supplied with excellent water from a spring on the 
side of Penn's mount, which is conducted into a reservoir near the 
head of Penn street, from which it is distributed through the town 
by means of iron pipes. 

Womelsdorf is an incorporated borough, containing 849 inhabi- 
tants, situated 14 miles west of Reading on the turnpike to Lebanon. 

Kutziown is also a borough, in the eastern part of the county, 
18 miles from Reading, on the road to Allentown and Easton. 
Population 693. 

Hamburg is situated on the eastern side of the Schuylkill, 15 
miles above Reading. 

Morgantown is in the southern corner of the county, near the 
Lancaster county line. 

Besides these there are many other places of some note, such as 
Mertztown, Pricetown, Stouchburg, Rehrersburg and Bernville. 

Of the productions of this county, those of agriculture are by 
far the most important and employ the greatest number of persons. 
Large quantities of different kinds of grain are cultivated; hay and 
potatoes are abundantly produced, and great numbers of horses, 
cattle, sheep and swine are raised by the farmers. 

It has been already mentioned that iron orejs mined in many 
places within this county, and 10 blast furnaces and about 30 
forges and rolling mills have been erected and put in operation for 
the manufacture of iron. Limestone is abundant, and is converted 
into lime for the use of this and the neighbouring counties, to 
which it is sent by the canals, and rail road. The surplus pro- 
ductions are chiefly conveyed by the SchuylkiU canal and Reading 
rail road to the Philadelphia market. 

Timber of the usual kinds found in this part of the State is abun- 
dant, and supplies the saw mills with material for lumber for home 
consumption, besides affording charcoal for the iron works and 
abundance of fuel for domestic use. 



BERKS COUNTY. 191 

According to the assessment for 1842, the value of real and 
personal property subject to county taxation amounted to 
120,679,857: the county tax levied upon which was $41,540, and 
the State tax assessed in the autumn of 1841, $27,769. 

The Schuylkill canal and the rail road from Philadelphia to 
Pottsville both pass through this county from south to north, and 
afford an easy and convenient means of communication with the 
city, as well as unusual facilities for the transportation of produce 
to market and of merchandise in return. The Union canal leaves 
the Schuylkill near Reading and passes up the Tulpehocken into 
Lebanon county, furnishing to the western part of Berks the 
convenience of canal navigation, both eastward to the Schuylkill 
and westward to the Susquehanna. These canals not only afford 
the means of transportation and trade to the people of the county, 
but also create a considerable home market to the farmers for the 
sale of different kinds of provisions for the boatmen and their horses. 

There are several good turnpike roads in this county. That 
from Philadelphia to Pottsville passes through Reading and Ham- 
burg; and that from Reading to Harrisburg extends westward by 
Womelsdorf and Stouchburg towards Lebanon. The common 
roads are kept generally in good condition for travelling; bridges 
are erected over the principal streams, eight or ten crossing the 
Schuylkill at different places within the county. Two of these 
are at Reading, one of which is about 600 feet in length. 

The general state of education among the people of this county 
is not flourishing. The early settlers were chiefly of the labour- 
ing classes from Germany, who in their own country had enjoyed 
very limited means for the acquisition of knowledge, their youth 
having been passed in the hardship and privation of incessant 
labour. Being a people generally averse to innovation, and strongly 
prejudiced in favour of old usages and habits, they have since, 
with some very creditable exceptions, practically maintained the 
principle that as the father has lived and made money without 
education, so may the son. Honest, industrious, and rigidly 
economical in his habits, the Pennsylvania German regards a liberal 
education as being rather the accomplishment of a rogue than the 
necessary qualification of a useful citizen; and would therefore 
save his money for what he considers a more useful purpose than 
the education of his children. It is, however, gratifying to observe 
that of latter years such principles are gradually, but perceptibly, 
yielding to more liberal views and a more just appreciation of the 
benefits and advantages of education. 

To such causes and opinions we may attribute the inferior con- 
dition of the common schools in this county. Of its 35 school dis- 
tricts only eight accepted the provisions of the law in 1835, and 
since that time two of them have discontinued. In many instances 
there has been much opposition to collecting the school taxes, 
building school houses, and making any improvements involving 
cost. The want of good teachers has been felt here, as in many 
other parts of the State ; but it is believed that there is a general 
improvement in the schools as well as in the disposition of the 



192 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

public mind on this subject. The number of schools in operation 
under the system is 44, which are kept open on an average about 
6^ months in the year. 

There are three academies in the county : one at Reading, one 
at Womelsdorf, and one at Kutztown. That at Reading was in- 
corporated in 1778, but owing to injudicious management and 
want of patronage, it was suspended in 1836. It was revived, 
however, in 1840, and has since sustained a deservedly high cha- 
racter. The course of instruction is extensive, embracing the an- 
cient and modern languages, mathematics and the other branches 
usually taught in academies and high schools. The number of its 
pupils is 64. The Reading Female Seminary was incorporated in 
1838, and by the wise and liberal pohcy of the trustees, suitable 
provision has been made for procuring the services of competent 
instructors in the English and French languages and literature, 
botany, chemistry, natural philosophy and other useful as well as 
ornamental branches of female education. The institution is 
accordingly in a prosperous state, and has already acquired a 
reputation which brings to it pupils from abroad. Its present 
number is 62. 

The common language of the county is the impure German 
usually spoken in Pennsylvania, and which has become so much 
corrupted and mixed with common English words, that it would 
scarcely be understood by a well educated German from the father- 
land. In many parts of the county, where the inhabitants seldom 
leave their own neighbourhood, English is neither spoken nor un- 
derstood ; but this language is rapidly gaining ground among 
those of the people who have business communications with 
others than their immediate neighbors. It will probably not be 
long before English and German will be equally used, except in 
some secluded portions of the county. 

Among the natural curiosities may be mentioned Dragon's 
cave, in Richmond township, which is thus described by a gen- 
tleman resident in the county. " The entrance to this cave is on 
the brow of a hill, in the edge of a cultivated field. Passing into 
it the adventurer descends about fifty yards by a rough and narrow 
passage, and then turns to the left at an acute angle with the pas- 
sage hitherto pursued. After proceeding about thirty yards farther 
he enters the great chamber, about fifty feet long, twenty wide, 
and fitteen to twenty feet high, in a rock of limestone. Near the 
end of this chamber, opposite to the entrance, is the "altar," a 
large mass of stalagmite, which rings under the hammer, and is 
translucent. Formations of stalactite are found in other parts of 
the cave, though none so large as the mass just mentioned." 

Sinking spring, near the Harrisburg turnpike, about 5 miles 
west from Reading, is a considerable curiosity to those who are not 
familiar with the circumstances frequently attending large springs 
in a limestone region. The water here rises and sinks again in 
the same basin, which is very deep ; thence finding its way again 
under ground through fissures and hidden caverns in the limestone 
rock, probably once more to seek the hght of day in some other place. 



BRADFORD COUNTY. 193 

Name the counties adjacent to Berks. Describe the face of the country 
and mention the mountains in this county. What river flows through it, 
and in what direction? Name the other principal streams, their situation 
and course. What kind of rock is in the southern part ? In the South 
mountain ? Where are the great hmestone and slate formations ? Men- 
tion the places where iron ore occurs. What other mineral productions are 
found ? What is said of the various kinds of soil ? W^hat is the county 
town and how situated? Describe the principal public buildings. For what 
branch of manufacture was Reading formerly celebrated? What manu- 
facturing establishments are now in operation ? How is the town supplied 
whh water? Where is Womelsdorf ? Kutztown ? Hamburg? Mor- 
gantown ? What other towns are mentioned ? What are the most import- 
ant productions ? The number and kind of iron works ? What is said of 
the hmestone and timber ? Name the canals and rail roads in this county. 
What is said of the turnpike roads and bridges? What circumstances are 
mentioned as having retarded the progress of education ? What is said of 
the number and condition of common schools ? Of the academies ? What 
language is commonly spoken ? What natural curiosities are mentioned ? 

7. Bradford County. 

Bradford county has the state of New York on the north, the 
county of Susquehanna on the east, Wyoming on the south-east, 
Lycoming on the south, and Tioga on the west. Its population, 
according to the last census, is 32,769. 

In its general aspect this county is a broken and hilly rather 
than a mountainous region ; with a surface frequently rough and 
rocky, and a soil of but moderate fertility, except along some of 
the streams, where there are tracts of alluvial land which are very 
productive. 

The Susquehanna and Tioga rivers both enter this county from 
the state of New York, and unite at Tioga Point, below the town 
of Athens, about five miles from the state line. From this point 
the Susquehanna flows south-eastward through Bradford county 
until it enters Wyoming. The other principal streams are Towanda 
creek, which runs north-eastward to the Susquehanna below the 
town of Towanda ; Sugar creek, further northward ; and Wysox 
and Wyalusing creeks in the eastern part of the county. There 
are many other streams of sufficient size to supply water power 
for saw mills and other establishments. 

A great portion of this county presents very little variety or interest in 
the geological character of its rocks. They chiefly consist of nearly hori- 
zontal strata of sandstone, intermixed with slates and shales (VIII and IX,) 
•with some bands of impure hmestone, frequently containing fossil shells, 
and which in some places is sufficiently pure for burning into hme. Some 
of the hills in the southern part of the county, 10 or 12 miles south-west- 
ward from Towanda, are capped by the rocks of the coal formation, in 
which are two beds of bituminous coal, one said to be three and the other 
five feet in thickness, and near them are iron ore and fire clay. Prelimi- 
nary surveys have been made for a rail road from Towanda to these coal 
mines. 

Towanda, the seat of justice, is a thriving town situated on the 
North branch of Susquehanna, nearly in the centre of the county. 
Population of the borough 912. It contains the usual county 

17 



194 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

buildings, consisting of a court house, prison, &c., also a bank, an 
academy, and several places of public worship. There is a neat 
and substantial bridge across the river at this place. Athens is also 
on the Susquehanna, about 15 miles north of Towanda. Several 
other villages of minor importance are contained within the county. 

In this newly settled region the productions of agriculture are 
neither so valuable nor so extensive as in the older counties. Most 
of the cereal grains are, however, successfully cultivated, and the 
soil is admirably adapted to the production of oats, grass, and po- 
tatoes. Lumber to the amount of near $250,000 is annually pro- 
duced from the forests, which is mostly floated down the Susque- 
hanna to a market. The number of saw mills in the county is 
213. Pine, hemlock, and sugar maple trees abound in the forests, 
and from the latter sugar is manufactured annually amounting to 
upwards of 190,000 pounds. 

The North branch division of the Pennsylvania canal, which is 
not yet completed, passes across nearly the whole breadth of this 
county and terminates at the northern line of the State, where it is 
intended to connect with the public improvements of the state of 
New York. It will, when finished, be of great importance to the 
trade of this region, as a means of transportation either north or 
south for the products of the county. 

Bradford is mostly settled by emigrants from New England, or 
their descendants, and the people are generally distinguished for 
their morality, intelligence, and attention to education. There are 
31 school districts in the county, in all of which, except one, the 
common school system is in full operation. The number of schools 
reported is 238, which are kept open for instruction during an 
average of about 6^ months in the year. The academy at To- 
wanda is reported to have about 80 pupils, of whom ten are un- 
dergoing a course of instruction intended to qualify them for 
teachers. 

Describe the boundaries of Bradford county. Its general surface and the 
character of the soil. What are the principal rivers ? Large creeks, their 
situation and course ? What is said of the rock formations ? Where is coal 
found ? What is its character, and what other minerals accoinpany it ? 
Name and describe the county town ? What other place is mentioned and 
where situated ? What are the most important productions ? What is the 
amount of lumber produced ? Of maple sugar ? What canal is in this 
countv, and what is said of its importance? By whom is the county chiefly 
settled ? What is said of education, and of the common schools ? 

8. Bucks County. 

In its general outline this county is nearly in the form of a pa- 
rallelogram, having its greatest length from north-west to south- 
east, about 40 miles, with an average breadth of 15 miles. It con- 
tains an area of 366,746 acres, or a little more than 573 square 
miles. The population in 1840 was 48,107. 

Bucks county is bounded on the north-east and south-east by 
the Delaware river, which separates it from New Jersey 3 on the 



BUCKS COUNTY. 195 

south-west by Philadelphia and Montgomery counties j and on 
the north-west by Lehigh and Northampton. 

The Delaware river runs along the eastern border of the county, 
in a south-eastern direction, for about 46 miles, where it bends to 
the south-west and runs sixteen miles further to the mouth of Po- 
queston creek, which is the boundary between Bucks and Phila- 
delphia counties. This river is navigable for steamboats and 
vessels of light draught to the lower falls or rapids at Trenton, 
which is the head of tide water. Lumber is rafted on the river 
from New York state to Philadelphia, and large quantities also 
pass from the country on the upper Lehigh down the canal to 
Bristol. 

The JYeshamimj is a large stream which rises in Plumstead town- 
ship and runs south-westward about eight miles ; then turning to 
the south-east it passes through the southern interior of the county, 
and empties into the Delaware a few miles below Bristol. This 
stream affords many valuable mill seats. 

Tokickon creek rises in the north-western part of the county, 
and after a winding course of about 30 miles, falls into the Dela- 
ware at Point Pleasant, above Black's Eddy. 

The north-east branch of Perkiomen has its source in Bedmin- 
ster township, flows south-westward into Montgomery county, 
and discharges its waters into the Schuylkill. 

In addition to the above named streams, the county is well 
watered by numerous smaller creeks and rivulets, which, wherever 
practicable, are improved to furnish power for mills and manufac- 
turing establishments. 

A very large spring rises in Solebury, a few miles west of New 
Hope, which was called Aquetong by the Indians ; now knowa 
as " Ingham's spring." The water flows out in a cove or hollow, 
near the junction of the red shale and limestone rocks, and like 
most other large springs maintains a nearly equal temperature 
throughout the year, seeming remarkably cold in summer and 
seldom or never freezing in winter. The quantity of water which 
this spring pours forth, is supposed to be sufficient, with 18 or 20 
feet fall, to turn two grist mills throughout the year ; and there are 
five good mill sites on the stream, between the spring and where 
it empties into the Delaware at New Hope, a distance of two and 
a half miles. 

The lower end of this county is occupied by gneiss and other primary 
rocks, the northern hmit of which extends from the Delaware above Mor- 
risville, in a western direction across the county, passing a little north of 
Attleborough and Rockville, and reaching the Montgomery county line 
near the north-west corner of Southampton township. North of this the 
primary rocks are overlapped by the middle secondary red shale and sand- 
stone formation, which occupies most of the remainder of the county. 
Ridges and dikes of trap rock are frequent, several of which run westward 
from the Delaware below New Hope. Others of considerable extent occur 
in the townships of Haycock and Rockhill. As is usual in this formation, 
we frequently find the red shale in the vicinity of the trap hills entirely al- 
tered in colour and texture ; being changed into a hard, compact blue or 
purplish rock, possessing little of its original character except its uniformity 



'196 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

of dip and stratification. This change has probably been effected by the 
heat of the trappean matter which lias found its way in a state ot fusion 
through the dislocated red shale. Some elevated ridges of the altered blue 
rock are seen, remote Irom any outburst of trap rocks, in which the change 
may be attributed to masses of unerupted trap beneath them, which has 
never reached the surface ; but whose heating influence has been sufficient 
thus to modify the overlying strata. 

The isolated ridge called Buckingham mountain appears to be an up- 
heaved mass of the sandstone (I) which lies next above the primary rocks. 
On the north of it we accordingly find a hmestone (II,) which is the next 
rock in order above this sandstone, and which extends in a narrow belt 
from the Delaware above New Hope, south-westward to a point beyond 
Centreville, where it disappears, being overlapped by the rocks of the red 
shale series. Other valuable belts of limestone occur in Durham and 
Springfield townships, south of the primary rocks of the Lehigh hills or 
South mountain. 

In Southampton township, on the farm of George Vanartsdalen, near the 
road from the Buck tavern to Attlebarough, is a small bed of primary 
limestone, in which are found Labrador ftldspar, plumbago, sulphuret of 
iron, tabular spar, scapoUle, augite, oxide of tita7iium, moroxite, and other 
mineral combinations. Between this and the villasje ol Smitlilield is a lo- 
cality where plumbago or black lead occurs in considerable quantity, which 
was formerly mined to some extent, but is now neglected. In the gneiss 
pear the bridge at Rockville, crystals of zircon are found. Sulphate 
of baryta occurs in abundance near the north-west coiner of Lpper Make- 
neld township, and also near Ingham's spring in Solebury, at both of which 
places it has been dug for use within a few years. '1 he altered rocks near 
the Delaware below New Hope contain crystals of tourmalin and ejndote. 
Magiietic iro?t ore, of tolerable purity, is found in Durham township, where 
it was formerly used for the supply of a furnace in the neighbourhood. 

In the same township there is a remarkable cave in the limestone rocks, 
the entrance to which is about 100 yards from the river. '1 he height of the 
eminence enclosing the cavern is from 200 to 250 feet above the level of the 
adjoining land. From the pathway of the entrance, to the rock above, is 
upwards of 40 feet, but the passage, being partly obstructed by rocks, will 
not admit more than two or three persons to enter abreast. The interior 
is lofty and consists of three spacious rooms ; the passage from one to the 
other is over steep and prominent rocks. The first apartment is entered 
by a descent of about 30 feet. The floor of the second room is lower than 
the first ; and that of the third is still lower, in the bottom of which is a 
spring of excellent water, supposed to communicate with the creek or river. 
The entire length of the cavern from north to south is about 90 yards. 

In quarrying limestone a little to the east of the entrance to this cave, an 
opening was made into another running parallel with it; and which, though 
not so wide, is of the same length. '^I'his abounds with white stalactites, 
and probably communicates with the other. 

The limestone tracts in this county are highly valued, and lime 
is extensively used as a manure for agricultural purposes, as well 
as for building, &c. In addition to that Avhich these afford, large 
quantities of limestone and lime are brought down the canal from 
the neighbourhood of Easton, for the supply of the lower part of 
the county ; the stone being burned in kilns near the canal, and the 
lime sold at 10 and 12^ cents per bushel. Building stone is abun- 
dant in most parts of the county : some of the sandstone strata in 
the red shale formation are peculiarly excellent, and may be dressed 
and cut into any desired form, affording a handsome and durable 
material for walls, bridges, canal locks, &c. 



BUCKS COUNTY. 197 

The soil is generally good, and in no part of Pennsylvania is 
agriculture better understood and practised than in the middle and 
lower parts of Bucks county. Great attention is paid to the care- 
ful tillage and improvement of the soil, and the farms and build- 
ings generally exhibit that love of neatness, order and convenience 
which is characteristic of the judicious and industrious agricul- 
turist. 

The climate of course resembles that of the other south-eastern 
counties of the State. The mean annual temperature is about 51*^ 
— that of the winter 29 or 30°, and of summer 71 or 72°. The 
greatest cold is seldom as Ioav as 0^, and the greatest heat 90 to 
92°. With regard to the changes and variations of climate in this 
part of Pennsylvania, we may say with Dr. Rush, " We have no 
two successive years alike. Even the same successive seasons 
and months differ from each other every year. There is but one 
steady trait, and that is, it is uniformly variable." 

Doylestown has been the county town since 1812. It is situated 
24 miles due north from Philadelphia, upon an eminence com- 
manding an extensive view of a region of country remarkable for 
its beauty, fertility and salubrity ; and the town, for neatness and 
order, is surpassed by few in the State. It contains a court house, 
county offices, and prison, situated in the centre of the town, and 
surrounded with a park adorned with trees. The other public 
buildings are a bank ; three houses for public worship, belonging 
to Presbyterians, Friends, and Methodists ; a female seminary, and 
an academy. There are also several literary societies and a 
library company. Four weekly newspapers are printed here, 
two in the English and two in the German language. The bo- 
rough and township contain about 2000 inhabitants. 

Bristol is a port of entry situated on the Delaware, 20 miles 
above Philadelphia, and 10 below Trenton, being nearly opposite 
to Burlington in New Jersey. The town is neat and cleanly, and 
presents a beautiful appearance when viewed from the river. The 
public buildings are a town hall, with a market attached, a bank, 
an Episcopal church, one Methodist and two Friends' meeting 
houses, and a spacious brick school house erected expressly for 
common schools. 

The Delaware division of the Pennsylvania canal terminates at 
Bristol in a large and beautiful basin. The Lehigh, Beaver Mea- 
dow and Hazelton Coal Companies have severally established their 
depots here, which, together with other produce descending the 
canal, make it a place of considerable commercial importance. 
The population in 1840 was 1,448. 

JVewHope is pleasantly situated on the Delaware, 31 miles from 
Philadelphia, and 11 from Doylestown. It is opposite to Lam- 
bertsville in New Jersey, with which it is connected by a Ae 
bridge across the river. It contains 820 inhabitants, and has^m 
academy, a lyceum and a Methodist church. A company is 
established here for the manufacture of Ball's patent door locks, 
and a number of mills and factories are in the town and its 

vicinitv. The Delaware division of the State canal passes through 

i7# 



i9S GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

the town^ affording facilities for considerable trade and business. 
The scenery in the viciniiy is picturesque, and the town is envi- 
roned by several hills of considerable elevation. 

JVeivioivn, Atlleborough, Yardleyville, and MorrisviUe are also 
considerable villages, increasing in size and importance. Many 
other thriving villages are situated in various parts of the county. 
The Bucks county almshouse is in Warwick township, about 
three miles south of Doylestown. It is a capacious building, 
having a large farm attached, and is admirably situated for health 
and agreeable scenery. 

Bucks county is chiefly an agricultural district and the farms are 
highly improved. The principal productions are wheat, rye, Indian 
corn, oats, buckwheat, butter, pork, poultry, various fruits and 
other articles for home consumption, and the supply of the Phila- 
delphia market. 

The manufacturing establishments are numerous, and some 
of them extensive. There are 1 1 flour mills, 94 grist mills, 80 saw 
mills ; several woollen and cotton factories, a number of iron foun- 
dries and establishments for the manufacture of carriages, wagons, 
and agricultural implements ; and various other branches of me- 
chanical industry are successfully pursued. 

The pr(3vailing growth of timber is chiefly various kinds of oak 
and hickory, chestnut, ash, poplar, and other useful trees; but in a 
country so generally under cultivation, timber cannot be said to be 
abundant. 

The estimated value of real and personal property assessed for 
countv purposes in 1842 was $17,004,945; county tax $33,643; 
State tax $25,477. 

There are several excellent turnpike roads in this county. The 
Doylestown and Willow Grove turnpike connects with the Chel- 
tenham turnpike, and forms the most direct communication with 
Philadelphia. The Bethlehem turnpike touches the county at 
Lexington and runs about 2^ miles on the county line. The Phi- 
ladelphia and Trenton turnpike passes through Bensalem, Bristol, 
and Falls townships, a distance of 17 miles. An extension of the 
Philadelphia, Buslleton, and Smithfield turnpike is now in a 
course of construction as far as the Buck tavern, in Southampton 
township, and will probably be made to Newtown in a few years. 
Some others are about to be constructed to connect with the 
Doylestown turnpike, in order to facilitate the transportation of pro- 
duce to market. The common roads are generally kept in good 
repair. 

The Philadelphia and Trenton rail road is the only one in the 
county, passing through it about 17 miles. 

The Delaware division of the State canal follows the windings 
of the river along the eastern border of the county for 53 miles, 
and terminates at Bristol. 

There are eight bridges crossing the Delaware within the limits 
of this county, viz: the Trenton, Yardleyville, Taylorsville, New 
Hope, Centre, Alexandria, Milford, and RieglesviUe bridges. 
E\ery bridge on the Delaware, except that at Trenton, was car- 



BUCKS COUNTY. . 199 

ried away by the great freshet on the 8th of Jannary, 1841 ; but 
they have since been rebuilt. 

County bridges across the Neshaminy and other streams are nu- 
merous, chiefly constructed of stone, and well built. 

The state of education among the people at large, though per- 
haps equal to that in most counties of the commonwealth, is 
nevertheless much inferior to what it ought to be, in a community 
so well able to support it. The condition of the CDmrnon schools 
generally calls loudly for reform. The county contains 33 dis- 
tricts, of which only 13 had accepted the school law in 1842, and 
have 65 schools in operation. The non-accepting districts are 
chiefly in the upper part of the county. There are 151 school 
houses, which are generally built of stone; and the schools are 
open on an average about 9| months in the year. 

There is at present no collegiate institution in the county, the 
Bristol college having been discontinued. There is an academy at 
Attleborough, one at Newtown, and one at Doylestown. At the 
latter place is a flourishing female seminary, incorporated by act 
of Assembly in 1838. 

English is the general language of the middle and lower parts 
of the county; but in the upper section German is commonly 
spoken. 

The number of churches and religious denominations in this 
county are as follows: Friends 18, German Reformed 11, Metho- 
dists U, Mennonists 11, Lutherans 9, Presbyterians 9, Episcopa- 
lians 5, Baptists 4, Christians 2, Catholics 1, Free 1. Total 82. 

Bucks was one of the three original counties erected by William 
Penn in 1682. Previous to the arrival of Penn's colony, there was a 
considerable settlement of English Friends in this county near the 
lower falls of the Delaware, who had grants of land there from 
Sir Edmund Andross, then governor of New York. The southern 
and interior parts of the county were settled mostly by English 
and Welsh Friends, and the northern "by Germans. 

William Penn had a large mansion house erected on his manor 
of Pennsbury near the bank of the Delaware, a few miles above 
Bristol, the ruins of which are still visible. It was undertaken be- 
fore his arrival and intended for his reception. Here he afterwards 
sometimes resided, and held meetings and conferences with the 
Indians. In 1701 he held a great Indian council to renew their 
covenants and take leave of them. 

A town was surveyed and laid out in Pennsbury manor by 
Phineas Pemberton, which was intended to have been Philadel- 
phia; but the people who went there were dissatisfied with the lo- 
cation, and it was abandoned. 

The Indian tribe which was originally in possession of the land 
comprising this county, belonged to the nation of Delawares, an,d 
were called JVeshaminies, from the principal creek about which 
they had their residence. The remains of the renowned king Ta- 
mane, a celebrated Indian chief, lie buried on Prospect Hill farm, 
4 miles south-west of Doylestown. His grave is in a beautiful 
spot by the side of a spring which flows into Neshaminy creek. 



200 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

"And since the chieftain there has slept, 
Full many a winter's winds have swept, 
And many an age has softly crept 
Over his humble sepulchre." 

The last remains of the Delawares, under their leader Isaac Still, 
a celebrated Indian of some education, removed from Bucks counly 
about the year 1775, to go, as they said, " far away from war and 
rum," to the Wabash. 

We find in the records of the old provincial council of 1683, an 
order that the seal of Bucks county should be a " Tree and Vine." 

In 1684, John Chapman came over from England and settled 
in Wrightstown. His place at that lime was the farthest back in 
the woods of any English settlement; and the Indians, being 
numerous, frequented his house in great numbers and were very 
kind to him and his family, as well as to those who came after 
him; often supplying them with corn and other provisions, which 
in those early times were very scarce. 

In 1697, the present site of Bristol, which was then called 
Buckingham, was surveyed and laid out as a market town by 
Phineas Pemberton, the surveyor general. This was for a time 
the seat of justice for the county, which was afterwards removed 
to Newtown, and subsequently in 1812 to Doylestown, where it 
still remains. James Harrison was the first chief justice of Bucks, 
and Phineas Pemberton was clerk of the court. As rnembers of 
the early provincial councils, and holding other public trusts in 
this county, we find the names of William Yardley, William 
Biles, John Swift, Thomas Janney, William Paxon, Thomas 
Jenks, Joseph Kirkbride, Thomas VVatson and others, many of 
whose descendants are to be found at the present day among the 
most respectable inhabitants of the county. 

One of the earliest seminaries of learning in the State was insti- 
tuted about the year 1728, in Warminster tpwnship, by the Rev. 
William Tennerit, an emigrant from Ireland. It Avas more espe- 
cially intended for the education of ministers for the Presbyterian 
church. From its celebrity and the materials of which it was 
constructed, it received the popular name of the " Log College." 
This institution continued to flourish for some time, and was the 
means of forming a number of good scholars and distinguished 
professional characters. 

The great Indian walk makes a conspicuous figure in the history 
of this county. We are indebted to the reminiscences of the vene- 
rable Samuel Preston, as published by him in the Bucks County 
Patriot in 1826, for the following account of it. " It appears that in 
1732, Thomas Penn, son of William Penn, came over as proprie- 
tary and remained about two years. He contracted with Teed- 
yuscung, a noted and pretended chief, for the Indian title to all 
the land to be taken off by a parallel of latitude from any point as 
far as the best of three men could walk in a day between sunrise 
and sunset, from a certain chestnut tree at or near Bristol, in a 
north-west course. (Other traditionary accounts say this tree was 



BUCKS COUNTY. 201 

near Wrightstown, which is more probable.) Great care was 
taken to select the most capable men for such a walk. The reward 
was five pounds in money and 500 acres of land any where in the 
purchase. The choice fell upon James Yeates, Solomon Jennings 
and Edward Marshall. This Marshall was a native of Bucks, a 
stout athletic man, famous as a hunter, chain carrier, &lc. One 
of the longest days in the summer of 1733 was appointed, and the 
champions notified. The people collected at what they thought 
the first 20 miles, on the Durham road, to see them pass. First 
came Yeates, stepping lightly, accompanied by Thomas Penn and 
attendants on horseback. After him, but out of sight, came Jen- 
nings with a strong and steady step, and yet farther behind, Ed- 
ward Marshall, apparently careless, swinging a hatchet and eating 
a dry biscuit: bets ran in favour of Yeates. Marshall carried the 
hatchet to swing in his hands alternately, that the action in his 
arms should balance that of his legs. He was determined to win, 
or die in the attempt. Yeates gave out near Durham creek. 
Marshall kept on, and before he reached the Lehigh he overtook 
and passed Jennings — waded that river at Bethlehem, and hurried 
on, by the spot where Nazareth now stands, to the Wind Gap. 
That was as far as the path had been marked for them to walk on, 
and there was waiting the last collection of people to see if any 
of the walkers would reach it by sunset. Marshall only halted 
for the surveyor to give him a pocket compass, and started on 
again. Three Indian runners were sent after him to see that he 
walked fairly, and how far he went. He then passed to the right 
of Pocono mountain, till he reach-ed Still-water, There he marked 
a tree witnessed by three Indians, The distance he had walked 
between sunrise and sunset, not being on a straight line, and about 
30 miles of it through the woods, was estimated at about 110 
miles. Yeates died in three days afterwards; Jennings' health 
was so much impaired that he died in a few years ; but Marshall 
lived to the age of OO^ears at his residence on Marshall's Island 
in the Delaware opposite Tinicum." Mr, Preston states that he 
received this account from the lips of Marshall himself, 

A parallel of latitude from Still- water would have cut off all the 
valuable possessions of the Indians to the westward ; and they, 
becoming alarmed, denied the right of Teedyuscung to enter into 
such a contract. It created great uneasiness, and they threatened 
war, before they would consent to such a bargain. In the midst 
of these perplexities, Thomas Penn returned to England, and his 
elder brother, John Penn, came over, who, on becoming acquaint- 
ed with the facts of the case, revoked the contract. This was 
wounding to the pride of Teedyuscung, who thus had gained 
nothing in the transaction ; and being a man of treacherous, cru.el, 
and malicious disposition, he created a hostile feeling among the 
Indians towards the whites. Marshall never obtained the pro- 
mised reward for his great exploit, and his family was the first to 
feel the Indians' vengeance. Thus the " Indian walk" may be 
considered as the prime cause of rupture in the harmony which 
had so long subsisted between Penn's colony and the natives. 



202 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

In the war of the Revolution this county was frequently tra- 
versed by American and British troops ; and although we can 
point to no battle fields within its borders, it is not lert without a 
witness of " the times that tried men's souls." When Washing- 
ton boldly determined to attack the British in their winter quarters 
at Trenton, he selected M'Konkey's ferry, now Taylorsville, about 
eight miles above Trenton, as the most favourable point for cross- 
ing the Delaware. Accordingly, on the night of Christmas, 1776, 
a night of intense cold, with a storm of mingled snow, hail, and 
rain, the river being covered with floating ice, he crossed the De- 
laware, arrived at Trenton soon after sunrise, and surprised the 
British and Hessian forces, who after a brief struggle surrendered 
themselves as prisoners of war, to the number of about 1,000 men, 
with all their military stores. 

What is the extent of Bucks county, and how bounded ? Describe the 
course of the Delaware. The other principal streams. What is said of a 
remarkable spring ? What kind of rocks occupy the lower end of the 
county ? What formation lies on the north of them ? Where are the prin- 
cipal ridges of trap rock ? In what parts of the county is Hmestone 
found? °VVhat mmerals occur in Southampton, and in other places meri- 
tioned ? Describe the Durham cave. What is said of the soil and of agri- 
culture ? Of the climate ? Name the county town, and describe its situ- 
ation, pubhc buildings, &c. How is Bristol situated, and what is said of 
it? New Hope ? What other villages are mentioned? Where is the 
county poor-house ? What are the principal agricultural products ? Manu- 
factures ? Mention the several turnpike roads. What rail road and canal 
are in this county ? What large bridges ? What is said of the state of edu' 
cation, and of the common ^schools ? Academies? Principal religious 
societies, and number of places of worship ? When was this county es- 
tabUshed, and by whom originally settled ? Where was WiUiam Penn's 
mansion house ? What tribe of Indians inhabited this part of the country ? 
In what year was a settlement commenced at Wrightstown ? When was 
Bristol laid out as a market town ? What early seminary of learning was 
founded in this county ? Relate some particulars of the famous Indian walk 
in 1733. What v/as the consequence ? What leading incident of the revo- 
lutionary war is connected with this county ? 

9. Butler Coitnty. 

Butler county is bounded by Venango on the north, Armstrong 
on the east, Allegheny on the south, and Beaver and Mercer on the 
west. Population 22,378. 

The face of the country is diversified by a succession of hills 
and valleys, forming a rolHng or undulating surface. 

No river passes through this county, but the Allegheny touches 
the north-east and south-east corners. Numerous smaller streams 
intersect it in almost every direction, the principal of which are the 
Co7ieqiienessing in the southern, and Slippery^'ock and Muddy 
creeks in the "northern part, all of which flow westward towards 
Beaver river. The county is well watered by the numerous 
branches of these streams, and in the eastern part by some of 
the smaller tributaries of the Allegheny river. 

Bituminous coal abounds in almost every part of the county. 



BUTLER COUNTY. 203 

and in the middle and northern portions, iron ore of good quality is 
found in sufficient abundance to render it worthy of prominent 
consideration among the natural resources of this region. Several 
strata of limestone occur in different parts of the county, furnish- 
ing an inexhaustible source of improvement to the soil, as well as 
yielding a supply of lime for architectural purposes and use in the 
arts and manufactures. 

A large proportion of the soil is rather of a sandy character and 
but moderately productive; in the southern part of the county it 
is more loamy and of greater fertility. Springs of pure water are 
abundant, and the climate is noted for its salubrity. 

Butler, the county town, on the Conequenessing creek, is situ- 
ated on high ground, and commands an extensive and picturesque 
view of the surrounding country. The court house is a handsome 
brick edifice, occupying an elevated and commanding situation; 
the other public buildings are a substantial prison, an academy, 
and several well-built churches. The borough is incorporated and 
contains a population of 861. Harmony and Zelienople, in the 
south-western part of the county, are flourishing towns, beauti- 
fully situated in the valley of Conequenessing creek^ and mostly 
inhabited by intelligent and enterprising Germans. The county 
contains a number of other flourishing villages, among which are 
Centreville, Harrisville, Fairview and North Washington in the 
north ; Prospect and Portersville in the middle ; and Woodville and 
Evansville in the south. 

The principal agricultural productions are wheat, rye, buck- 
wheat, oats and some Indian corn, with live stock of various kinds. 
•Several enterprising farmers have recently turned their attention 
to the production of silk, and with considerable success. This 
county has three furnaces for the manufacture of iron, some wool- 
len factories, numerous grist and saw mills, and several oil mills. 

The timber chiefly consists of various kinds of oak, chestnut, 
and some white and black walnut, affording an abundant supply 
for domestic use ; but little of it is taken to market. 

The assessed valuation of property in 1842 was $2,573,116; 
State tax $2,820. 

Several graded roads called turnpikes, though not covered with 
broken stone, and hence having the distinctive name of "'clay pikes," 
■cross the county in different directions. One of these leads from 
Pittsburg to the town of Butler, and thence extends north-west- 
ward to Mercer, in Mercer county. Another of similar character 
leads from Freeport to Butler, and one from Harmony to Butler. 
These roads are excellent for travelling when the ground is hard ; 
but in the early part of spring, and when the soil is saturated with 
moisture, they become almost impassable. There is also a graded 
State road from Butler to Franklin, which being principally located 
•on the ridges of high land between those places, and on a more 
gravelly soil, is not subject to be so much affected in consequence 
of the frost leaving the ground in the spring. 

Butler county contains 17 school districts, all of which have 
accepted the provisions of the law regulating the common school 



.204 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

system, and in which 139 schools are reported as being in opera- 
tion, taught on an average nearly five months in the year. In the 
academy at Butler about 50 pupils are instructed, and in the same 
town is also a female seminary with nearly an equal number. 

Of the various rehgious persuasions, the Presbyterians, Metho- 
dists, Seceders, and Roman Catholics are the most numerous : 
there are also some German Reformed, Lutherans and Univer- 
salists. 

This county was originally included in Westmoreland, which 
then embraced most of the territory of Pennsylvania west of the 
mountains. Two districts of "donation lands," most of which 
lie in Butler county, were surveyed as early as 1785; but few set- 
tlements were made until 1796. The early settlers endured great 
hardship and privation, being obliged to transport most of the 
necessaries of life on pack horses from the older settlements. Salt 
was brought in this way from the coimtry east of the mountains, 
and was sometimes sold as high as $18 per bushel; while at pre- 
sent more than half a million of bushels of this article are produced 
in the adjoining counties. The first white inhabitants were mostly 
emigrants from the eastern part of the State, and their numbers 
were increased by many natives of Ireland and Germany, whose 
descendants form a considerable portion of the population. 

How is Butler county bounded ? What is the character of the surface ? 
What river touches the county, and what are the other principal streams? 
yVhat valuable mineral productions occur ? What is the character of the 
soil and climate ? What is the name of the county town, and what are its 
public buildings ? Where are Harmony and ZeUenople ? What other vil- 
lages in different parts of the county ? Mention the principal agriculturat 
productions. What are the iron works and other manufacturing establish- 
ments ? What are the prevailing kinds of timber ? What is said of the 
roads ? Of the schools and academies ? Name the principal rehgious de- 
nominations. To what county did Butler originally belong? What is 
said of the hardships and privations of the early settlers ? Whence came 
the first white inhabitants ? 

10. Cambria County. 

Cambria county is bounded on the north by Clearfield, east by 
Huntingdon and Bedford, south by Somerset, and west by West- 
moreland and Indiana. Population 11,256. 

This is an elevated and mountainous country, lying on the high 
table land west of the Allegheny mountain, with an irregular and 
rolling surface, furrowed by deep and precipitous ravines. Much 
of the county is yet covered by dark forests of pine, hemlock and 
other timber, in which a clearing has here and there been made by 
the axe of the hardy settler, who has reared his humble cottage 
and established his home, surrounded by the solitude of the path- 
less wilderness. 

The principal stream is the Conemmigh, which rises by several 
branches on the western slope of the Allegheny, and flows west- 
ward across the county. Stony creek is a large stream, which 



CAMBRIA COUNTY. 206 

flows northward from Somerset county, and falls into the Cone- 
maugh at Johnstown. Blacklick creek rises in Cambria, by two 
main branches, which unite near the western border of the county 
and flow westward into Indiana. In the north are Clearjield and 
Chest creeks, which pass northward into Clearfield, and empty 
into the west branch of Susquehanna. All these, with many 
smaller streams, aSbrd a great amount of water power, very little 
of which is yet improved, except by a few saw mills, and in the 
more settled parts of the county by flour mills. 

Bituminous coal is abundant throughout most parts of Cambria 
county, but it is only mined for domestic consumption, except 
along the Hne of the Allegheny Portage rail road, where consider- 
able quantities are dug for the supply of the stationary engines at 
the inclined planes, and for transportation eastward on the rail road 
and canal. Iron ore is found in several places, but has not yet 
been worked. Limestone, of the quality usually associated with 
bituminous coal, may be obtained in various parts of the county. 

In the narrow valleys along the streams the soil is productive, 
but on the hills it is less fertile and better adapted to grazing cattle 
and sheep, than to the cultivation of grain. The climate is too 
cold for Indian corn, but oats and potatoes succeed well. The win- 
ters are long and severe, and frost is sometimes seen in the sum- 
mer months. 

Ebenshurs; is the county town, situated on a commanding emi- 
nence a few miles west of the main Allegheny ridge. The pub- 
lic buildings are a court house, prison, academy, and three or four 
churches. The town is tolerably well built, and contains about 
350 inhabitants. Johnstmvn, at the junction of Conemaugh and 
Stony creek, is a place of considerable business, being at the west- 
ern termination of the Allegheny Portage rail road, and at the 
commencement of navigation on the Western division of the Penn- 
sylvania canal. The town is in a deep narrow valley, surrounded 
by hills of considerable height which close around it and confine 
the view to very circumscribed limits. Population about 1,250. 
Lm-etto, is a village a few miles north-east of Ebensburg, in a 
neighbourhood chiefly settled by Catholics, who have a neat chapel 
erected for worship. Munsler is a small place on the turnpike 
east of Ebensburg. The town of Beula, built some years since 
by a company of Welsh immigrants, is now deserted and fallen to 
decay. 

The productions of this county are not important, and consist 
chiefly of lumber, coal, and such agricultural products as are suited 
to the soil and climate. The raising of cattle and sheep is an 
object of attention to the farmers, and the country being well 
adapted to this branch of domestic economy, it may hereafter be- 
come of considerable importance. 

The value of property, real and personal, assessed for county 
purposes, is $752,316 : county tax $3,940 : State tax $1,063. 

A tolerably good turnpike, leading from Hollidaysburg to Pitts- 
burg, crosses Cambria from east to west, passing through Ebens- 
burg, the county town. Another from Ebensburg by way of In- 

18 



206 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

diana to Kittaning, is kept in reasonably good condition. The 
common roads are indifferent, as is usual in a thinly settled and 
rough country. The Allegheny Portage rail road crosses the 
county from the summit at Blair's Gap, through a wild region 
■westward to Johnstown, where it connects with the Western di- 
vision of the Pennsylvania canal, which extends down the Cone- 
maugh towards Pittsburg. 

The state of education in this county is not very flourishing. 
The common school system has been generally adopted, and about 
50 schools are in operation ; which are kept open on an average, 
only about three months in the year. The academy at Ebensburg 
has 50 or 60 pupils, but the higher branches of education are not 
sufficiently encouraged. 

Cambria county was chiefly settled by Irish and Welsh families, 
and they or their descendants, with some Germans, still constitute 
the greater portion of the population. The Welsh language is yet 
spoken in many famihes, and is common in the streets and stores 
of Ebensburg. The prevailing religious denominations are Ca- 
tholic, Baptist and Presbyterian. 

How is Cambria bounded ? Describe the face of the country. What 
are the principal streams, their situation and direction ? Mention the im- 
portant mineral productions. What is said of the soil and climate ? What 
is the county town, and how situated ? Where is Johnstown, and what is 
said of it ? Name the other towns mentioned, and describe their situation, 
&c. What are the principal productions ? What turnpikes, rail road and 
canal are in this county ? What is said of the state of education and of the 
common schools ? By what people was the county chiefly settled? What 
language beside English is spoken? Name the prevaihng religious deno- 
minations. 

11. Carbon County. 

Carbon is a new county established by an act of the Legislature 
in 1843, including that portion of Northamption which lies north 
of the Blue mountain, with one township I'rom the western part 
of Monroe south of the Tobyhanna, called I'enn Forest. Carbon 
county is bounded north-west by Luzerne, east by Monroe, south 
by Northampton and Lehigh, and south-west by Schuylkill. The 
contained population is about 7,500. 

The county is generally mountainous, and there is but little 
arable land except in the valleys of the southern part, where the 
soil is adapted to cultivation and tolerably productive. The Blue 
mountain is the southern boundary : north of this is a succession 
of smaller ridges called by various names, such as Fire-line hill, 
Mahoning ridge, «^'C. Mauch Chunk mountain is on. the west of 
the Lehigh : beyond this is the Broad mountain extending to the 
eastward of the river, and still further east is the Pocono moun- 
tain. North of the Broad mountain are Spring mountain and 
Bald Ridge. 

The rocks of the Blue mountain are gray and reddish sandstones (IV) 
having an inclination to the north-west ; and overlying them, in the valley 



CARBON COUNTY. 207 

north of the mountain, are the varieffated and red shales (V) and the Ume- 
stone (VI) next above in position. 1 he coarse fossiliferous sandstone (VII) 
succeeds, forming a range of sharp irregular hills parallel with the moun- 
tain. All these rocks may be seen exposed near the river, above the Le- 
high water gap. Next is the olive slate (VIII) and the red shale and sand- 
stone (IX) extending on the east of the river to the Pocono and Broad 
mountain, and on the west to the Mauch Chunk mountain, below the 
town. In this mountain is the sandstone (X,) and above it the red shale 
(XI,) which surrounds the eastern point of the southern anthracite coal 
field. In the Broad mountain an axis of elevation brings up the sandstone 
(X,) and in the valley of Quakake, beyond it, we have the red shale (XI) 
beneath the pebbly conglomerate (XII) of Spring mountain, which under- 
lies the Beaver meadow coal basin. 

The southern anthracite coal field, extending eastward from Schuylkill 
county, terminates in a point a little to the west of the Lehigh river at 
Mauch Chunk. The mountains which form the edges of the coal basin on 
each side are about 500 feet above the adjacent valleys. On the north side 
of the basin the channel of Room run cuts deeply into the mountain, and 
exposes nine beds of coal, from 5 to 28 feet thick, making a total thickness 
of 111 feet. On the south side, which has not been so fully examined, are 
found beds of 50, 20, 15 and 9 feet. The northern beds are mined at Room 
run, and the coal conveyed on a descending rail road, 5 miles in length, to 
the landing at Mauch Chunk, where it is deposited in the boats. At the 
old Summit mine, nine miles west of the river, the coal bed is from 50 to 
60 feet thick, and hes as a saddle on the top of a hill nearly as high as the 
main mountain, the coal being uncovered and quarried in open day. About 
thirty acres in extent have been worked from this bed, the product of which 
has been upwards of 1,100,000 tons. A descending rail road of nine miles 
extends from this mine to the river, on which the loaded cars descend by 
gravitation, and are hauled back to the mine by mules which ride down 
with the trains of coal, in large cars constructed for the purpose, feeding 
composedly during their rapid descent ; and then refreshed and invigorated 
by the ride, lustily apply themselves to the work of drawing back the 
empty cars to the mine. 

The second or middle coal field, lying north of the Broad mountain, ex- 
tends into the north-western corner of Carbon county, where a number of 
excellent beds of coal, from 4 to upwards of 20 feet thick, have been 
opened and are worked in various places. From the Beaver meadow 
mines a rail road has been constructed to the Lehigh at the mouth of Qua- 
kake, and thence down the river to Parryville, 5^ miles below Mauch 
Chunk. The Hazelton mines are four miles north-west of Beaver meadow, 
and lie in Luzerne county, near the line of Carbon: a rail road from these 
communicates with that from the mines of the Beaver Meadow Company. 
A number of other coal companies have commenced operations in this pro- 
ductive region. The quantity of coal sent to market from this district in 
1842 amounted to 272,126 tons. 

Lumber is also an important item in the productions of this 
county. In the north-east are vast forests of white pine and other 
valuable timber, for which the construction of the Lehigh Naviga- 
tion Company's improvements above Mauch Chunk have afforded 
an outlet to market. A very great amount of lumber is produced 
from the numerous saw mills recently erected near the Lehigh, and 
is transported in boats down the Lehigh navigation and Delaware 
division of the State canal, being usually preferred by the dealers 
to rafted lumber, and commanding a more ready sale. 

This county derives most of its value from the improvements of 
the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company, who with a zeal, perse- 
verance and industry which has rarely been equalled, and over- 



208 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



coming difficulties which would have proved insurmountable ex- 
cept by the most determined and skilful perseverance, have con- 
verted a river, useless in itself for purposes of navigation, into one 
of the most noble and capacious hnes of canal and slackwater na- 
vigation in the Union. But for the completion of this work, the 
vast mineral and forest wealth of the whole region on the upper 
Lehigh, as well as the incalculable amount of coal in the neigh- 
bourhood of Mauch Chunk, must have remained useless and un- 
productive, and a country now teeming whh an active and indus- 
trious population would have continued to be a savage wilderness. 
Beside the river Lehigh there are a number of large and rapid 
streams, having a great amount of fall, and yielding a vast amount 
of water power, but Httle of which has yet been made productive 
except for saw mills. Aqua7ichicola and ^ig- creeks fall into the 
Lehigh on the east side, above the Blue mountain ; and Lizard 
and Mahoning creeks on the west. JYesqiiihoning flows eastward 
along the south side of the Broad mountain, and Quakake in the 
same direction on the north. In the pine swamps of Penn Forest, 
east of the Lehigh, are Hays^ creek. Hickory creek or Griffith's 
run. Muddy run, and several others, propelling numerous saw 
mills. 




Mauch Chunk. 

Mauch Chunk is the principal town, and intended to be the seat 
of justice for the county. It is on the west bank of the Lehigh, 
12 miles above the gap by which that river passes through the 
Blue mountain; 46 miles by the navigation from Easton, and 
nearly 30 from Allentown. The situation is romantic and pic- 
turesque, the town being encircled by steep mountain acchvities. 



CENTRE COUNTY. 209 

which rise in some places precipitously from the river to a height 
of 800 or 1 ,000 feet. It is a place of some resort during the sum- 
mer season, from the many attractions and objects of interest 
which it presents to visiters. The coal mines, the inclined planes, 
and all the machinery and appliances necessary for mining, trans- 
porting and shipping coal may be seen here on a large and im- 
proved scale; while the pure mountain air, gushing fountains 
of the coldest and purest water, with beautiful views of wild, 
and sublime mountain scenery, give additional charms to the 
place. Besides the extensive operations in coal, several other 
branches of business are successfully pursued. There is a furnace 
and an iron foundry, mills, stores, work shops for various me- 
chanical and manufacturing purposes, and a printing office from 
which a weekly newspaper is published. 

Lehighton, Weissport, and Parryville are small towns on the 
Lehigh below Mauch Chunk. Lausanne and Nesquihoning are 
on Nesquihoning creek. Beaver meadow village is on the turn- 
pike 12 miles north-west from Mauch Chunk. Lowrytown is on 
the Lehigh, above the mouth of duakake creek. 

There is a turnpike road from Mauch Chunk to Berwick on the 
North branch of Susquehanna, passing by Beaver meadow, Ha- 
zelton and Conyngham. 

When was Carbon county established, and from what counties was it 
taken ? How is it bounded ? What are the principal mountains ? What 
is said of the coal beds at Room run? At the Summit mine ? How is the 
coal conveyed from these mines ? At what several places is coal mined 
north of the Broad mountain? By what means conveyed to the river? 
How many tons of coal were sent from the Lehigh region in 1842? What 
other important production is mentioned ? What improvements have been 
of great importance to this county ? What would have been the character 
of the country without this work ? Mention the principal streams, their situ- 
ation and course. What is the chief town and how situated? What ex- 
tensive business is carried on here ? Name the other towns in this county 
and where situated. What turnpike road in the county ? 

12. Centre County. 

Centre county has Clinton on the north. Union on the east, 
Mifflin on the south-east, Huntingdon on the south, and Clear- 
field on the west. Population 20,492 by the census of 1840. 

The face of the country is diversified by high mountain ridges 
ranging from north-east to south-west, with deep valleys inter- 
vening. Tusseifs, Btmsh and JVittany mountains are in the east 
and north-east; Bald Eagle mountain extends across the county 
near the middle ; and north-west of this is the Mlegheny mountain. 

The geological features of this county are varied and interesting. East 
of the Bald Eagle mountain the valleys are of the great limestone forma- 
tion (H), bordered on their margins next to the mountains by the overlying 
slate (HI) . This mountain and the high ridges south-east of it are of 
sandstone (IV). North-west of Bald Eagle mountain, along the valley in 
which flows Bald Eagle creek, we have the red and variegated shales (V), 
and the fossihferous limestone (VI), next in order. Above this is a thin 
belt of the fossihferous sandstone (VII), not always perceptible. From 

18* 



210 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

this to the south-eastern base of the Allegheny, or rather of the hills which 
jut forward from that mountain, is a belt two or three miles wide, occupied 
by the olive slates and sandstones of the next formation (VIII), and above 
this the red shale and red and gray sandstones (IX), which form the steep 
front of the Alleglieny. Passing over the intermediate formations, we find 
on the high lands beyond the summit, in the vicinity of Snowshoe and 
Philipsburg, beds of bituminous coal, which have been opened in some of 
the most accessible places, and the coal transported to the country east of 
the mountain. 

But the most valuable mineral production of Centre county is 
its iron ore, which is found abundantly in the limestone valleys, 
and extensively mined for the supply of furnaces. It is of the 
kind usually found in the limestone regions of this formation, and 
called brown argillaceous ore; appearing under a variety of forms 
and of different degrees of purity. That called pipe ore occurs in 
parallel cyUndric columns, closely cemented together, and is 
usually esteemed as one of the best kinds. Hollow lumps of ore 
are common, the interior of which is lined with crystalline hema- 
tite having a polished surface, like glazed earthen-ware. Much 
of it is open, porous or cellular, occurring in large amorphous 
masses, disseminated through the earth in which it is imbedded, 
without any apparent regularity or order of deposition. These 
ores yield by chemical analysis from 50 to 60 per cent, of metallic 
iron ; but the product obtained from the furnace is somewhat less 
than this amount. 

The soil of Nittany, Penn's and other valleys in this county, 
may be classed among the most productive lands in Pennsylvania, 
and form a fine agricultural district. In some parts, however, as 
in other limestone regions, the want of water is severely felt, and 
wells are often sunk to a great depth without success. The 
streams, after running a short distance, frequently sink into the 
fissures of the limestone rock and disappear. The mountain ridges 
separating these valleys are generally steep and rocky, unfit for 
agricultural purposes, and only valuable for the timber which 
grows upon them. Along the Allegheny mountain, and in the 
elevated regions beyond its summit, the country is mostly wild 
and uncultivated, containing but few settlements. Pine, hemlock, 
sugar maple, and other useful kinds of timber grow here, and 
lumber to some amount is produced. 

Most of the streams in this county empty into Bald Eagle creek, 
which flows north-eastward to the West branch of Susquehanna. 
Its larger branches afford water power for furnaces, forges, rolling 
mills, saw mills, flour mifls, oil mills and other manufacturing 
establishments. Three flourishing woollen factories are in opera- 
tion in the county. Moshanon creek flows along the western side 
of the county, and the fVest Branch of Susquehanna forms the 
north-west boundary. 

The climate is healthy, and considerably colder than that of the 
lower counties in the south-eastern part of the State; but milder 
than in the northern counties beyond the Allegheny. At Belle- 
fonte, in January 1841, the mercury in the thermometer fell to 25^ 
below 0, and in July of the same year rose to 95°. The mean 



CENTRE COUNTY. 211 

annual temperature is about 4° below that of Philadelphia, 3'^ 
below Lancaster, 1° above Somerset, and 4^ above M'Kean. 

Belief onte is the county town, handsomely situated on Spring 
creek near the north-west side of Nittany valley, in a fertile and 
salubrious neighbourhood. It is a well built and flourishing place, 
containing the usual county buildings, with an academy and four 
or five churches. Population 1,032. This town derives its name 
from a large and beautiful spring in its vicinity. From this spring 
the town is supplied with water, which is raised by machinery 
into a reservoir on an eminence about 90 feet above the level of 
the spring. These water works were first erected in 1808, and 
have since been rebuilt and improved. 

Milesboro is two miles north of Bellefonte, at the junction of 
Spring and Bald Eagle creeks. Fhilipsburg is on the Moshanon, 
at the western side of the county, 25 miles west of Bellefonte. 
Aaronsburg, Milheim, Earlysburg, Boalsburg and other villages are 
in the valleys of the eastern part of the county. 

The agricultural productions are wheat and other kinds of grain, 
pork, beef, live stock, &c., much of which finds a market for the 
supply of the workmen and horses employed about the iron works 
in the county. Iron is the chief article of manufacture, the mate- 
rials being supplied from the ore banks and mountain forests; and 
16 furnaces, 10 forges and 4 roUing mills are in operation, which 
are estimated to produce from 15,000 to 18,000 tons of iron an- 
nually. The surplus productions of this region find their way to 
market by the Bald Eagle navigation, or otherwise, to the West 
branch of Susquehanna, or are sent across by land to the Juniata 
canal. 

The assessed valuation of property subject to county tax in 1842 
was $5,137,802; county tax $5,789; State tax $6,289. 

Centre county has several good turnpike roads, the principal of 
which is that from Lewistown to Bellefonte, and thence westward 
towards Erie. 

There are 17 school districts in the county, which have nearly 
all accepted the common school system under the law ; 67 schools 
are reported as being in operation, and are kept open from 3 to 8 
months in the year. In the academy at Bellefonte upwards of 50 
pupils are instructed, and at the same place is a female seminary 
with nearly an equal number. 

This county was originally settled principally by German and 
Irish families, whose descendants still constitute a majority of the 
population. 

What counties lie adjacent to Centre ? Describe the face of the country 
and name the principal mountains. Where is coal found in this county ? 
Iron ore, and of what kind? Describe the several varieties of this ore. 
What is said of the soil, timber, &c. ? What are the principal streams ? 
What are the manufacturing estabhshments driven by water power ? What 
is said of the climate ? Name the county town, its situation, &lc. Where 
are Milesboro and Phihpsburg ? What other towns are mentioned ? What 
are the agricultural productions ? What is said of the manufacture of iron, 
the number of iron works, and the quantity produced ? How do the sur- 
plus productions of the county reach a market ? Mention the turnpike 



212 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

roads. What is said of schools and academies ? By whom was the county 
principally settled ? 

13. Chester County. 

Chester county has Berks on the north, Montgomery on the 
east, Delaware on the south-east, the states of Delaware and 
Maryland on the south, and Lancaster on the west. Population 
67,515. It is one of the three original counties, having been es- 
tablished with Philadelphia and Bucks in 1682 by William Penn. 

The surface is diversified by gentle hills and fertile valleys ; but 
can no where be called mountainous. The most considerable ele- 
vations are the North and South valley hills, which extend west- 
ward from the Schuylkill, and a ridge called the Welsh mountain, 
in the north-western corner of the county. 

Much of the soil is of an excellent quality and highly pro- 
ductive ; those portions which are not naturally of so fertile a 
character have been so improved by the use of lime as a manure, 
and by judicious cultivation, as to yield good crops of grain and 
grass. This is one of the finest agricultural districts in the State, 
and by the enterprise and industry of the intelligent farmers who 
inhabit it, has been made to present a beautiful and luxuriant pic- 
ture of the neatness, order and productive prosperity of Pennsyl- 
vania husbandry. 

A minute description of the interesting geological and mineralogical fea- 
tures of this county would far exceed the limits prescribed by the plan of 
this work ; the following brief sketch is all that can be given. The rocks 
in the southern part of the county, or that portion which lies south of the 
Great Valley, belong chiefly to the stratified primary class, consisting of 
gneiss, mica slate and talc slates, with occasional veins or dikes of granitic, 
sienitic and trap rocks ; and including numerous local beds of limestone and 
of serpentine. The hmestone is usually white, light gray or bluish, and 
frequently crystalline or granular. 

A variety of interesting minerals occur in this part of the county, for the 
discovery of many of which we are indebted to the examination and re- 
search of a number of intelligent gentlemen of the county, who have mani- 
fested an interest in the investigation of the subject. In East and West 
Goshen townships are found talc, asbestus, amianthus, magnesite, steatite, 
octohedral crystals of iron, quartz, cyanite, staurotide, amethyst, jasper, 
garnet, actynolite, schorl, &c. In East Bradford, besides most of the 
minerals last mentioned, are zircon, brown tourmalin, adularia, and litho- 
marge. Newlin township also contains a great variety, among which are 
chalcedony, agate, sapphire, corundum, beryl, green tourmalm, oxide of 
titanium, indurated asbestus, radiated quartz, &.c. In East Marlborough 
are chromate of iron, oxide of titanium, iserine, (fee, and near Unionville,. 
zircon, beryl, epidote, tremolite, diallage and feldspar. In Pennsbury occur 
arragonite, sahlite and augite, the latter containing crystals of sphene ; and 
in a white limestone above Chad's ford, are found crystals of brucite. 
West Marlborough affords fine specimens of fibrous, radiated and crystal- 
lized tremohte, — also scapolite, fluate of lime, magnesite and dolomite. 
Red oxide of titanium is found in the vicinity of Chatham, and at other 
places in London Grove township. Chrome ore and silicate of magnesia, 
though found in small quantities associated with the beds of serpentine in 
different parts of the county, seem to be most abundant in the south-west, 
in the townships of East and West Nottingham, where they have both 
been mined to some extent for use in the chemical manufactories of Balti 



CHESTER COUNTY. 213 

more. Many of the above named minerals, together with a variety of 
others, are not confined to the townships particularly mentioned, but occur 
in various other places within this region. 

That portion of the county called the Great Valley is included between 
two ridges which pass westward from near the Schuylkill, gradually ap- 
proaching each other and bringing the valley nearly to a point towards the 
western boundary of the county. The rock of the south valley hill is 
principally a talc slate ; while in that on the north we find a sandstone (I) 
overlying a belt of gneiss rocks north of the valley. The valley between 
the bases of these ridges is occupied by a belt of hmestone which extends 
westward from the Schuylkill in Montgomery county, becoming gradually 
narrower until it terminates in a point beyond the Lancaster county line. 
Extensive quarries of limestone are opened at many places in the valley, 
for the supply of lime to the adjacent country ; the demand being great, 
and annually increasing as its value for the purpose of a manure becomes 
more fully appreciated. In some parts of its range this limestone is fight 
coloured or white, semi-crystalline or granular, affording, where the layers 
are sufficiently thick and soUd, a superior marble for" architectural pur- 
poses. Much of that used in the Girard college and other buildings in 
Philadelphia has been obtained from quarries a few miles east of Down- 
ingtown. At other places within the valley a handsome dark blue and va- 
riegated marble is found. 

North of the Great Valley is an extensive area occupied chiefly by pri- 
mary rocks of the gneiss order, in which feldspar, hornblende and quartz 
are the prevailing constituents. Mica and talc slates are much less com- 
mon than in the region south of the valley. Small dikes and hills of trap 
rock are not uncommon ; and a number of small beds of altered crystalUne 
limestone occur, in which are found crystals of plumbago and other mine- 
rals. There is iron ore in Vincent township, in the neighbourhood of the 
Yellow springs, and at oth r places. A vein of titaniferous ore occurs in 
gneiss rock, near Isabella furnace. 

In the north-eastern part of the county, the primary rocks are overlaid 
by the middle secondary red shale and sandstone, the southern border of 
which extends from the Schuylkill by Valley Forge and Kimberton to 
French creek, and thence up that stream north-westward towards Mor- 
gantown in Berks county. Iron ore is sometimes found in this formation, 
and is dug at the Warwick mine and other places in the neighbourhood ofj 
Morgantown. 

Chester county is watered by numerous streams, of which the 
largest are the Schuylkill and Brandywine. The Schuylkill flows 
along the eastern side of the county, separating it from Montgo- 
mery as far as to the mouth of Valley creek. French creek is a 
considerable stream, rising on the southern border of Berks county, 
and flowing eastward to the Schuylkill at Phoenixville ; a few 
miles further south is Pickering creek. The Brandywine rises in 
the north by two main branches, and runs southward nearly 
through the middle of the county into the state of Delaware, 
emptying into the Delaware river below Wilmington. In the 
south-west are several branches of Elk creek, running southward 
into Maryland. Octoraro rises near the head of the Great Valley 
and flows southward, forming the western boundary of the county 
to the State line, where it enters Maryland and falls into the Sus- 
quehanna five miles above Port Deposit. 

West Chester, the county town, with a population of 2,152, is 
pleasantly situated in a healthy and productive neighbourhood, on 
the high grounds east of the Brandywine, about 27 miles west 



214 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

from Philadelphia. The town contains a court-house, a new and 
spacious prison constructed on the principle of solitary confine- 
ment; a market-house, a bank, and eight or ten houses for public 
worship, belonging to various denominations. There is also a 
public library, and a cabinet containing an extensive collection of 
mineral, botanical, zoological and other specimens, illustrative of 
various branches of natural science. In the town and its vicinity 
are several academies and boarding schools, which are generally 
well conducted and enjoy a deserved reputation. The inhabitants 
are no less distinguished for their morality and industry than for 
their attention to literature and science; and few, if any, country 
towns in the State offer a more agreeable and intelligent society 
than is to be found in this place. The taste displayed in the 
erection of numerous handsome public and private buildings, and 
the general air of neatness and good order which prevails, are in 
accordance with the character of the population. Its facihty of 
access, its pleasant and healthy location, and the interesting cha- 
racter of the surrounding country, combined with its other attrac- 
tions, make it a favourite place of resort for numerous visiters. 

The town is abundantly supplied with excellent water by means 
of works erected for that purpose. 

Downingtown is a considerable village on the east branch of 
Brandy wine, where crossed by the Lancaster turnpike; and also 
on the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road. It is situated in the 
Great Valley, and surrounded by fertile and productive farms, 
with substantial stone buildings, presenting an aspect of comfort 
and wealth, combined with pleasant scenery and most other cir- 
cumstances which conduce to rural enjoyment. 

CoatesviUe, eight miles west of Downingtown, on the west 
branch of Brandy wine, is a flourishing village, also on the turn- 
pike and near the rail road. 

Phcenixville, on the Schuylkill, at the mouth of French creek, is 
noted for its iron and nail works, as well as other manufacturing 
establishments. A furnace has been erected here for smelting iron 
with anthracite coal. 

Marshalltcn, Unionville, Chatham and Cochranville, are villages 
towards the western part of the county : Kcnnet- square is in the 
south; J\^ew London and Oxford in the south-west, and Waynes- 
burs; in the north-west. There are a number of other pleasant 
and improving villages in various parts of this populous county. 

The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agricuhural pursuits, 
and the products of the soil are numerous and important in value. 
Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, rye and buckwheat, are exten- 
sively cultivated; — cattle, sheep and swine are reared and fattened 
in great numbers; while butter, poultry, fruits and other articles 
for the city market receive attention in those parts of the county 
from which they can be conveniently sent thither. 

The productions of manufacturing enterprise and industry are 
also considerable. According to the census returns, there are 3 
furnaces, 10 forges and roUing mills, and several nail factories; 
also 11 fulling miUs and 19 woollen manufactories^ producing 



CHESTER COUNTY. 215 

goods to the annual value of $55,500; 18 cotton factories and 3 
establishments for dyeing and printing cotton goods — value of an- 
nual production $148,000; 26 paper mills, manufacturing annually 
to the amount of $140,400; 27 flour mills, 115 gristmills, 150 
saw mills and 20 oil mills. There are 37 tanneries, producing 
leather to a considerable amount; the manufacture of carriages 
and wagons, agricultural implements, furniture, hats, boots, shoes 
and various other articles of necessity or convenience is carried on 
to considerable extent. 

The county is generally well supplied with timber for domestic 
purposes : in those parts where wood is less abundant, coal is be- 
ginning to be used for fuel, being chiefly obtained by means of the 
Schuylkill navigation and Columbia rail road. 

The assessed valuation of real and personal property subject to 
county taxation in 1842 was $15,971,158; county tax $31,962: 
State tax $25,336. 

Of the public improvements within this county, the principal is 
the State rail road from Philadelphia to Columbia, which passes 
through it from east to west. From this road a branch has been 
constructed, about ten miles in length, leading to the town of 
West Chester. The Schuylkill navigation extends along the 
eastern side of the county where it bounds on that river. Several 
good turnpike roads cross the county in various directions ; the 
principal of which is that from Philadelphia to Lancaster. A 
turnpike leaves this at Downingtown, and leads north-westward 
by Waynesburg to Ephrata, in Lancaster county, and thence ex- 
tends in the same direction until it unites with the turnpike from 
Lebanon to Harrisburg. The south-western part of the county is 
traversed by a turnpike from Wilmington to Lancaster. The 
common roads are generally kept in good condition : bridges are 
numerous, and generally well constructed. 

It is pleasing to observe the general attention paid to educa- 
tion and mental improvement by the people of this county, for 
which, as well as for their general intelligence and moral and 
industrious habits, they are excelled by the population of few por- 
tions of the State. Many excellent academies and boarding 
schools, for youth of both sexes, are established in various parts of 
the county, which are generally well sustained and in a flourish- 
ing condition. Of the 46 school districts contained in the county, 
43 have adopted the system of common school education as estab- 
lished by law. According to the reports received from 40 of these 
in 1842, they had 219 schools in operation, which were open for 
instruction during an average period of 6 months and 1 1 days in 
the year. 

There are upwards of one hundred churches and meeting houses 
for public worship ; of which about 30 belong to the society of 
Friends, 25 to the Methodists, 20 to the Presbyterians, and the re- 
mainder to various other religious societies. 

The early settlements in this county, then including Delaware 
and reaching westward to an indefinite extent, were principally 
made by the immediate friends and followers of William Penn, in 



216 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. j 

1682-3. As the population increased and the settlements ex- ! 
tended westward by the influx of numerous English, Irish and ' 
German immigrants, the distailce to the seat of justice, at Upland 
or Chester, on the Delaware, became inconvenient to the inhabit- 
ants of the remote parts of the county. The county of Lancaster J 
was therefore erected in 1729, and Berks in 1752; thus limiting 
the extent of Chester on the west and north. In 1789, the south- 
eastern part was laid off as a separate county called Delaware, and 
the original county of Chester thus reduced to its present hmits. 

We have not space for a further reference to the interesting his- 
torical events connected with this county, than merely to mention 
that several important incidents of the revolutionary war occurred j 
within its borders. The battle ground of the Brandywine, near 
Chad's Ford, is now occupied by cultivated fields, in which the , 
plough yet sometimes turns up with the soil some remnant of that - 
bloody and eventful struggle. Near the PaoH tavern, on the Lan- i 
caster turnpike and rail road, about 20 miles from the city, is a i 
monument erected to mark the spot where a small body of Ameri- j 
cans were surprised and inhumanly massacred by a detachment ' 
of the British troops, on the 20th of September, 1777. Valley j 
Forge, in the eastern part of the county, near the Schuylkill, is | 
noted as the place where Washington, with his destitute and suf- [ 
fering army, took up their winter quarters towards the close of the j 
year 1777. Here, but partially sheltered from the inclemency of i 
the weather by a few miserable huts, and almost destitute of cloth- 
ing and provisions, their sufferings were such as would have been 
borne by none but those who were sustained by principles of the 
loftiest patriotism, and endued with constancy and resignation by 
a firm devotion to the cause of their country's freedom. 

How is Chester county bounded? Describe the face of the country. ^ 
What is said of the soil, and of agriculture ? What is the geological cha- 
racter of the rocks in the southern part ? Mention some of the minerals 
found here, and the places where they occur. What is the rock formation 
of the great valley ? Where is marble found ? What rocks occupy an 
extensive area north of the great valley, and what minerals do they con- 
tain ? In what part of the county is the red shale and sandstone forma- 
tion ? Mention the situation of the principal streams and their course. 
What is the county town, and how situated ? What is said of its public 
buildings and literary institutions ? Of the character of its inhabitants ? 
Mention the other principal villages, and their situation. What are the 
chief agricultural productions ? The principal manufactures ? What pub- 
lic improvements by rail road and navigation ? What turnpike roads ? 
What is said of the attention paid to education ? Of the academies and 
schools? How many houses for public worship, and to what societies do 
they mostly belong ? What counties have been erected from the original 
territory of Chester? What incidents of the revolutionary war are men- 
tioned as connected with this county ? 

14. Clarion County. 

This is a new county, erected in 1839, from parts of Armstrong 
and Venango. It has Venango on the north, Jefferson on the east, 
Armstrong on the south and the Allegheny river on the west. By j 



CLEARFIELD COUNTY. 217 

the census returns of 1840, its population is included in that of Arm- 
strong and Venango ; the number of inhabitants within the new 
county is about 14,687. 

The country has generally a rolling or hilly surface ; a considera- 
ble portion of the soil is of good quality, and agriculture is improv- 
ing as the settlements increase. 

The valuable mineral resources of this region are but partially developed. 
Iron ore, bituminous coal and limestone are abundant, and the county is 
already becoming distinguished for the manufacture of iron. Seven blast 
fiirnaces and one forge are in operation, producing annually about 7000 tons 
of iron, which is chiefly sent down the Clarion and Allegheny rivers to 
Pittsburg. 

Clarion river is the principal stream, flowing westward nearly 
through the middle of the county and falling into the Allegheny. 
It is navigable at high water for boats, rafts and arks ; and a large 
amount of lumber, iron and other produce is floated down it from 
Clarion and Jefferson counties for the Pittsburg market. 

The county town is called Clanon, situated on the east side of 
Clarion river, on the turnpike from Bellefonte to Erie. The public 
buildings are a neat court house of brick, a stone prison, and an 
academy. Several thriving villages are contained within the county, 
the principal of which are Strattonville and Shippenville, both 
on the Bellefonte and Erie turnpike, Edinburg, Curlsville and 
Reimersburg. 

This county is rapidly improving in wealth and population : its 
agricultural productions, as well as its lumber and iron, are becom- 
ing valuable and important. 

The most common kinds of timber are white and yellow pine, 
hemlock, oak and sugar maple. 

Of the 13 school districts in the county, 11 have accepted the 
law, and 89 schools are reported as being in operation under its 
provisions. The fact, however, of their being kept open on an 
average less than three months in the year, shows that the pro- 
gress of education by no means keeps pace with the general im- 
provement of the county. 

The prevailing religious denominations are Methodists, Presby- 
terians, Lutherans, Catholics and Baptists. 

When, and from what counties was Clarion erected ? How is it bounded ? 
What is said of the surface and soil ? What are the mineral productions ? 
Iron works and their annual product ? What river flows through the county ? 
What is the county town, and where situated ? Name the other villages. 
What is said of the progress of improvement ? Mention the most common 
kinds of timber. What is said of the schools, and of the progress of edu- 
cation ? Religious denominations ? 

15. Clearfield County. 

Clearfield is bounded on the north by the new county of Elk, 
on the east by Clinton and Centre, on the south by Cambria, and 
on the west by Indiana and Jefferson. Population 7,834. 

The face of the country in the eastern part of the county is hilly 

19 



218 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

and mountainous, and intersected in every direction by deep valleys 
or ravines along the principal streams. In the middle and west- 
ern portion the surface is rolling and irregular, but mostly sus- 
ceptible of being converted into good farming land. 

The IVest branch of Susquehanna enters this county at the south- 
western corner, and runs through it in a north-easterly direction 
for a distance of about 70 miles. It is navigable at high water for 
rafts of lumber and arks carrying produce, large numbers of which 
descend during the spring freshets. Clearfield creek enters the 
county on the south, and flows northward to the Susquehanna, 
two miles below the town of Clearfield. Mushanon creek, which 
forms the county line between Clearfield and Centre, runs north- 
eastward and falls into the Susquehanna near Karthaus, about 20 
miles below Clearfield town. In the northern part are the tribu- 
tary streams of the Sinnemahoning, a large creek which empties 
into the Susquehanna in Clinton county. The principal of these 
is BennetVs branch, which runs north-eastward and eastward, and 
joins the Drift-wood branch near the north-eastern corner of the 
county. Aiidersonh creek and Chest creek are considerable 
streams, and like those already mentioned contain sufficient water 
during high freshets to float rafts of lumber from the country 
bordering upon them. There are also many smaller streams which 
are sufficient to afford water power for saw mills and other purposes. 

Clearfield county, being situated within the range of the bituminous coal 
formation, yields abundance of that article of an excellent quahty. The 
steep hill sides along the courses of the streams show numerous outcrops 
of coal beds ; and coal, iron ore and limestone are often found within a few 
feet of each other. 

The soil in the valleys along the larc^e streams is productive, 
and much of the upland is tolerably fertile, except in the eastern 
part of the county, where it is too rough and rocky to admit of 
easy cultivation. 

The climate of this elevated region is considerably colder than 
in the southern and eastern parts of the State : the summers are 
usually cooler and the winters longer and more severe. 

Clearjield is the county town, situated on the West branch of 
Susquehanna, and contains a court-house, a prison, an academy 
and three churches. The town has about 400 inhabitants, and is 
improving. Curwinsville on the Susquehanna, 6 miles above the 
county town, and on the Bellefonte and Erie turnpike, is a flou- 
rishing place containing about 300 inhabitants. Luthersburg is on 
the same turnpike 12 miles west of Curwinsville, in an improving 
neighbourhood with a good soil for agriculture. Frenchville is a 
small town near the Susquehanna, about 15 miles below Clear- 
field, in a settlement inhabited chiefly by French immigraiits. 
Karthaus is on the river, 25 miles below Clearfield, in a region 
containing abundance of iron ore and coal. This is one of the 
first places where the experiment of smelting iron with bituminous 
coal was successfully tried. The furnace built here was for some 
time in operation, with the materials all convenient; but from 
some cause the work has been suspended for two or three years. 



CLINTON COUNTY. 219 

The principal production of this county is lumber, of which 
large quantities have been floated down the Susquehanna to a 
market. The county contains about 100 saw mills: the most 
valuable timber is white pine, oak, ash, cherry, maple, poplar and 
hemlock. Of later years, however, the agriculture of the county 
is improving, and a considerable amount of surplus grain is pro- 
duced in some of the settlements. The mineral productions of 
coal and iron ore are important, and when a convenient outlet hy 
the improvement of roads and navigation shall be afforded, will 
doubtless be brought into active usefulness and form an important 
item in the wealth of the county. At present about 150,000- 
bushels of coal are annually sent to market from the mines of 
Clearfield. 

By the assessment of 1842, the estimated value of property made 
taxable for county purposes is $1,217,732; county tax $6,065; 
State tax $1,251. 

The turnpike road from Bellefonte to Erie crosses Clearfield 
county from east to west: the common roads, as in most rough and 
newly settled countries, are indifferent. The canal to connect the 
West branch of Susquehanna, by way of the Sinnemahoning, with 
the waters of the Allegheny river, passes through the northern 
part of the county, but is not yet completed. 

The people of this county have of late shown a very commend- 
able attention to the improvement of education. Every township 
has adopted the common school system, and 64 schools are in 
operation. The academy at Clearfield has two classical teachers 
and is tolerably well supported. In the same town is a well con- 
ducted female seminary, which has been in successful operation 
for the last three years. 

The population is of a mixed description, consisting of settlers 
from various places. Many families are of Irish descent, and 
Germans are numerous. A settlement of French people has 
already been mentioned. The religious denominations are various j 
Presbyterians, Methodists, Catholics, &c. 

How is Clearfield bounded ? What kind of surface has it ? What is 
the principal river ? Tell the situation and course of the other principal 
streams. What are the mineral productions? What is said of the soil ? — 
The climate ? Name the county town, its situation, &c. Where is Cur- 
winsville? Luthersburg? Frenchville ? Karthaus ? What is said of the 
iron works at this place ? What is said of the productions of this county, 
forest, agricultural and mineral ? Turnpike and canal ? Education, schools, 
academies, &c. ? Population and religious denominations ? 

16. Clinton County. 

Clinton is a new county, erected in 1839 from the western part 
of Lycoming and the northern part of Centre. It is bounded on 
the north by Potter, on the east by Lycoming, south by Centre, 
and west by Clearfield and Elk. Population 8,223. 

This county is generally mountainous and uneven, and in the 
northern and western parts very thinly inhabited. The JVest 
branch of Susquehanna flows through it from west to east, and it 



220 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

is well watered by numerous other streams, of which the largest 
are Bald Eagle, Sinneinahoning and Kettle creeks. 

The geological character of the county is various. Passing north-west- 
ward from the limestone of Nittany valley (II) we observe in regular suc- 
cession the several formations of slate, sandstone, shale, and limestone, 
which intervene between the lower limestone and the coal formation west 
of the main Allegheny ridge. Bituminous coal is found on Queen's run 
near the Susquehanna, and at several other places further westward. 

In a county possessing so great a variety of rock formations, 
the soil must of course be various. The limestone valleys and the 
alluvial bottom lands are highly productive when well cultivated; 
the slate lands are less fertile, but yield good crops if properly 
farmed, while the sandstone soils are generally stony and rough. 
Timber is abundant, and a considerable trade in pine and other 
lumber is carried on. This, with other productions of the county, 
is taken down the Susquehanna to a market. 

The seat of justice for Clinton county is at Lock Haven, a new 
place situated at the junction of the Bald Eagle navigation with 
the West branch of Susquehanna, where the public buildings have 
been erected and a flourishing town is rapidly growing up. 

Mill Hall is a thriving village, up the Bald Eagle valley, south 
of the Susquehanna. 

Dunnstown, Lockport, and Fairandsville are villages on the 
northern bank of the river. Near the latter place a very large and 
costly furnace was erected in 1838, for the manufacture of iron 
with coke made from the coal of the neighbourhood, but after con- 
tinuing in operation for a short time the work was suspended. 

Assessed valuation of real and personal property subject to 
county taxation in 1842, $1,497,903: county tax, $6,6065 State 
tax $1,850. 

The West branch division of the Pennsylvania canal is in ope- 
ration from Farrandsville downwards, and is partly finished for 
some distance above, towards Sinnemahoning. An artificial navi- 
gation has been constructed along Bald Eagle creek, by a company, 
in order to form an outlet for the productions of Centre and Clin- 
ton counties: this work connects with the State canal at Lock 
Haven, the county town of Clinton. 

Most of the townships have adopted the common school system, 
and about thirty schools are reported as being in operation under 
the law, which are open on an average about five months in the 
year. 

When and from what counties was Clinton erected ? By what is it 
bounded ? Is it mountainous or level ? What are the principal streams ? 
Where is bituminous coal found? What is said of the various kinds of 
soil? Of the productions? What is the county town and its situation? 
Mention some other towns in this county. What is said of the furnace near 
Farrandsville ? Name the improvements in navigation. What is said of 
the schools ? 



COLUMBIA COUNTY. 221 

17. Columbia County. 

Columbia county has Lycoming' on the north, Luzerne on the 
east, Schuylkill on the south-east, and Northumberland on the 
south and west. By the census of 1840 it contained 24,267 in- 
habitants. 

The surface is uneven, being diversified by mountains, hills 
and valleys. Along the river are some comparatively level tracts 
having a rich soil, and in some of the western parts of the county 
the Umestone land, when well cultivated, is very productive. In 
the northern and southern portions the country is hilly and broken, 
and the soil of but moderate fertility. 

In the south-east are the Little and the Nescopeck or Catawissa 
mountains ; in the north-east the Knob mountain, extending west- 
ward from Luzerne ; and on the northern border is the high range 
prolonged eastward from the Allegheny, which is here called the 
North mountain. 

So many rock formations are brought to the surface in this county, by 
numerous anticlinal and synclinal axes or lines of elevation and depression, 
and so often are some of these formations repeated by the consequent 
changes of dip, that a minute description of their various ranges, foldings 
and doublings would occupy several pages. A mere general notice of 
some of the more prominent features in the geology oi the county is all 
that our limits will permit. 

In the elevated range called Montour's ridge, which extends from the 
West branch above Northumberland, eastward by Danville, to a point 
north-east of Bloomsburg, an axis of elevation passes nearly along the 
middle of the ridge, and the rocks fold over it, inclining towards the north 
and the south. The interior mass of this ridge is composed of hard gray 
and reddish sandstones (IV,) which are covered along both sides, and 
sometimes nearly or quite to the top of the ridge, by the slates and shales 
of the overlying series (V,) the lower part of which consists of yellowish 
or greenish slates, containing thin strata of limestone, in which are impres- 
sions of shells and oiher fossils, and near these a very valuable layer of 
brownish red iron ore, from six inches to two feet in thickness, also con- 
taining fossil impressions. This ore is found on both sides of the ridge as 
far eastward as the neighbourhood of Bloomsburg, where the strata con- 
verge and unite over its top as it sinks away on the east, and finally dis- 
appears under the overlying red shale in the vicinity of Espytown. In the 
slates above the iron ore are some thin layers of dark coloured limestone, 
succeeded by a thick bed of red shale which forms the upper portion of the 
series. 

Overlying this red shale is a Umestone formation (VI) which encircles 
the ridge on the outside of the red shale, and which may be seen not far 
from the river above Northumberland, and along the road from Danville 
to Bloomsburg, extending also from this to within two or three miles of 
Berwick, where it sinks away beneath the overlying slate. From this point 
the northern division of the limestone extends along the outer border of the 
red shale north of the ridge, passing a httle south of Moorsburg, to the 
West branch, near the mouth of Chihsquaque creek. 

The next formation in order, the fossiliferous sandstone (VII,) appears 
to be wanting in this part of the State ; for immediately next to the lime- 
stone last mentioned we find the olive slate (VIII,) which with the red 
shales and sandstones next above (IX,) spread over a wide region south 
of Montour's ridge, in the valleys of Shamokin and Roaring creeks, as far 
as the Little mountain. The same formations also occupy most of the 
northern part of the county, extending to the southern side of the North 

19* 



222 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

mountain. In the neighbourhood of Washingtrm, in the west of the 
county, the limestone (VI) appears, encircling the red shale which extends 
eastward from the vicinity of Milton. 

The Knob mountain, which terminates at Fishing creek near Orange- 
ville, is formed by the union of two ridges which in Luzerne county pass 
on either side of the south-western point of Wyoming coal basin, and ex- 
tend into Columbia county in a long narrow ridge which is capped with a 
hard coarse sandstone (X). The same rock appears in the Nescopeck or 
Catawissa mountain, and in Little mountain. South of Cat-awissa moun- 
tain, the httle valleys on Catawissa creek are of the red shale (XI) which 
underlies the conglomerate (XII) of M'Cauley's and Buck mountain, sup- 
porting the anthracite coal beds. 

The J\'orth branch of Susquehanna flows through the central 
part of Columbia county, which is Avatered by several other con- 
siderable streams. Fishing creek rises by numerous branches 
along the side of the North mountain, and has a nearly south 
course to the river near Bloomsburg. Catawissa creek has its 
source in Schuylkill county, flows north-westward, and falls into 
the North branch at the town of Catawissa. Roanng creek rises 
near the southern extremity of Columbia, and forms part of the 
south-western boundary. There are numerous other streams of 
sufficient power for mills, furnaces, &c. 

Danville is the county town, situated on the North branch, 12 
miles above Northumberland, containing upwards of 1,500 inha- 
bitants. Since the construction of the canal, and the discovery of 
iron ore in its immediate neighbourhood, this place has rapidly 
improved and has become the seat of extensive manufacturing 
and business operations. There are four blast furnaces, a large 
iron foundry and machine shop, a cupola furnace for castings, and 
various other manufacturing establishments. The town also con- 
tains the court house, prison and other county buildings, several 
churches and a number of neat private dwellings. The North 
branch canal passes through the town, and renders it a consider- 
able depot for the shipment of country produce. 

Bloomsburg is a flourishing place near the river and canal, nine 
miles above Danville. Catawissa is on the east side of the river, 
at the mouth of Catawissa creek, three miles south of Bloomsburg. 
Berwick is on the river and canal at the eastern line of the county, 
12 miles above Bloomsburg. Jersey town, Washington, and 
Fruitstown are villages towards the north-west of the county. 
Moorsburg is five miles north-west of Danville; Williamsburg 
and Orangeville are near Fishing creek, north of Bloomsburg; 
and Mifflin on the south side of the river below Berwick. 

Agriculture forms the chief occupation of the inhabitants, and a 
large amount of surplus productions, consisting of flour, grain, 
pork and various other articles, are sent by the canal to a market 
at Philadelphia, Baltimore and other places. Iron has also be- 
come one of the staple productions : eight blast furnaces have 
been erected, which are suppHed with the ore from Montour's 
ridge, and many thousand tons of ore are annually sent from this 
county for the supply of other furnaces. There is a forge on Cata- 
wissa creek, for making bar iron. 



CRAWFORD COUNTY. 223 

The value of property subject to taxation for county purposes 
for 1842 was assessed at $4,522,106: county tax $13,461 : State 
tax $7,312. 

About 25 miles of the North branch division of the State canal 
are in Columbia county, extending from a little below Danville to 
Berwick, where it passes into Luzerne. There are bridges across 
the river at Danville, Catawissa and Berwick. A turnpike road 
extends from Danville to Pottsville. The unfinished Little Schuyl- 
kill and Catawissa rail road is partly in this county, passing down 
the valley of Catawissa creek. 

The subject of general education has been much neglected in 
many parts of the county. Schools are not sufficiently encouraged, 
and incompetent teachers, as is too often the case in other parts of 
the State, are entrusted with the care of youth and with their mo- 
ral and literary improvement, which, under such guidance, seldom 
leads to the acquirement of solid and useful attainments. There 
are 19 school districts in the county, of which 15 have adopted 
the common school system as established by law, and have 107 
schools in operation, in which instruction is given during an ave- 
rage period of about 4^ months in tlie year. There is an academy 
and a female seminary at Danville. 

Methodists and Presbyterians are the most numerous religious 
denominations. There are some Episcopalians and Friends, as 
well as several other societies. Many of the early settlers were 
Germans from Berks, Northampton and Lancaster; some emi- 
grants from New Jersey, and a number from Bucks and others of 
the older counties of Pennsylvania. 

By what counties is Columbia bounded ? Describe the face of the country 
and soil. What are the principal mountains ? Where does a valuable iron ore 
occur ? Describe the range of the hmestone formation. On what moun- 
tains is anthracite coal ? What river is in this county? Mention the rise ana 
course of the principal creeks. What is the county town and how situ- 
ated ? Give an account of its iron works, public buildings, &c. Where is 
Bloomsburg? Catawissa? Berwick? What other places are mentioned, 
and how situated ? Mention the agricultural products, and by what route 
sent to market. What iron works are established ? What canal, bridges, 
turnpike, and rail road are in this county? What is said of ediication in 
general ? Of common schools and academies ? Rehgious denominations ? 
Early settlers of the county ? 

18. Crawford County. 

Crawford county has Erie on the north, Warren on the east, 
Venango and Mercer on the south, and the state of Ohio on the 
west. The number of its inhabitants, according to the census of 
1840, was 31,724. 

The surface of the country is rolling and uneven, approaching 
to hilly, and presents many agreeable and picturesque views of 
varied and beautiful scenery. A soil naturally fertile and produc- 
tive is found in most parts of the county ; but this being a rather 
newly settled region, art has yet done but little towards improving 
and embellishing the wilder features of nature. 



224 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

In considering the geological character of the rocks which extend over 
the greatest portion of this county, we find but httle to indicate the existence 
of any very valuable mineral deposits. The north-western part contains 
rock strata of formations whose position is below the coal measures, and 
having a gentle descent towards the south-east, they pass in that directioa 
below the north-western margin of the great bituminous coal field. In the 
southern part we find the coarse and massive sandstone which constitutes 
the bottom or floor of the productive coal measures ; but here it lies so near 
the summits of the hills as to preclude the idea of any extensive bed of 
coal being contained above it, except in some pecuhar locaUties towards 
the south-west of the county. Thin beds of impure coal may be some- 
times met with in the rocks below this sandstone, but they are seldom 
productive or valuable. An extensive deposit of calcareous marl is said to 
have been found near Harmonsburg, from which lime is manufactured. 

This county is chiefly watered by French creek and its nume- 
rous branches, the principal of which are the Conneaut and Cm- 
sawago. In the south-west are some branches of the Shenango, 
and in the east are the head waters of Oil creek, which flows 
southward to the Allegheny river. Conneaut lake is a beautiful 
sheet of water, about five m.iles in length and two in breadth, situ- 
ated a few miles west of Meadville. Oil creek lake in the north- 
eastern, and Sugar creek lake in the southern part of the c(7unty 
are of less extent, but form highly ornamental features in the 
natural scenery of this picturesque region. 

Meadville, the county town, is pleasantly situated on French 
creek, 25 miles north-west from Franklin on the Allegheny river, 
and 37 south of Erie. Its population is upwards of 1,300. In the 
centre of the town is a public square, on which stand the court 
house, a spacious and well built edifice; the Episcopalian church, 
also a very creditable specimen of architecture ; and the Presbyte- 
rian church. There are several other places of pubHc worship in 
the town. An arsenal has been erected here for the preservation 
of arms belonging to the State. 

Allegheny college is built upon an eminence about half a mile 
north of the town, and commands a fine view of the surrounding 
country. The main building is four stories in height, surmounted 
by a cupola and flanked whh wings of three stories, being 120 feet 
in front by 44 feet deep. The order of architecture is Ionic, and 
the general appearance of the whole edifice produces a pleasing 
effect. 

Harmonsburg, Conneaut, and other improving villages also be- 
long to this county. 

By far the greater portion of the inhabitants are engaged in 
agricultural pursuits, the productions being grain of diff"erent kinds, 
potatoes, hay, wool, &c. The soil being favourable for grazing, 
considerable attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, and the 
products of the dairy are estimated to amount annually to near 
$50,000. 

Timber is in great plenty, but little lumber is produced except 
for domestic consumption. The sugar maple grows abundantly 
and the annual product of maple sugar in the county is about 
214,000 pounds. Pot and pearl ashes are also made to the amount 
of about 50 tons in a year. 



CUMBERLAND COUNTY. 225 

The numerous streams afford a plentiful supply of water power, 
part of which is employed in propelling 168 grist and saw mills, 
a number of fulling mills, oil and paper mills and other manufac- 
turing machinery. 

According to the assessment for 1842, the value of property 
subject to taxation in this county was $2,768,546: county tax 
$8,305 : State tax $2,768. 

The general improvement of Crawford county and the pros- 
perity of its agricultural, manufacturing and commercial business, 
will be greatly increased by the completion of the Erie extension 
of the Pennsylvania canal, which extends through the county 
from south to north. Another branch of the State canal has been 
constructed from Meadville, down French creek, to the Allegheny 
river at Franklin. 

There are several turnpike roads, the principal of which is that 
leading from Pittsburg to Erie, which crosses the whole breadth of 
the county, passing through Meadville ; and one from Meadville 
to Franklin. 

A respectable portion of the population may be described as in- 
telligent, enterprising and industrious. Several societies have been 
established for the promotion of moral, religious, and charitable 
objects. Popular education is encouraged and common schools are 
established in every district, under the provisions of the law. The 
number of districts is 27, all of Avhich reported to the superintend- 
ent in 1842, showing an aggregate of 250 schools in operation 
under the public system, the average time of instruction being up- 
wards of 5 months in the year. 

In Allegheny college upwards of 120 students are instructed in 
the higher branches of learning. A manual labour department is 
connected with the college, consisting of a farm of 60 acres and a 
work shop, by means of which a considerable number of students 
are enabled to support themselves by their own labour, and to de- 
fray the expenses of their education. The institution is furnished 
with chemical and philosophical apparatus, and has a library 
which is said to contain 8,000 volumes. 

How is Crawford county bounded ? What is the character of the surface 
and soil ? What is said of the rock formations in general, and of the pro- 
bability of their containing valuable mineral deposits ? What is the princi- 
pal stream and its branches ? What other creeks and lakes are mentioned ? 
Name the county town, its situation and pubhc buildings. Describe Alle- 
gheny college. What other villages are there ? In what occupation are 
most of the inhabitants engaged ? Mention the productions of the farm and 
the dairy. Also those of the forest. What is said of mills, &c. Mention 
the canals in this county and their advantages to the inhabitants. Turnpike 
roads. What is the general character of the population ? The condition of 
education, and the conimon schools ? What is said of Allegheny college ? 

19. Cumberland County. 

Cumberland county is bounded on the north by Perry, on the 
east by the Susquehanna river, which separates it from Dauphin, 



226 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

on the south by York and Adams ; and on the west by Franklin. 
Population, 30,953. 

The greater portion of this county lying within the great Kitta- 
tiny valley is comparatively level, though the slate region in the 
north, between the limestone and the Blue mountain, has a some- 
what uneven and hilly surface. In the southern part are the 
ridges of the South mountain, which are generally rough and un- 
cultivated, being mostly covered with timber. The Blue or Kit- 
tatiny mountain, which extends along the northern side of the 
county, and forms the division line between Cumberland and 
Perry, is of considerable height, and affords, from many points on 
its summit, an extended and charming prospect of the beautiful 
vaUey on the south and east. A wide and varied landscape of 
woodland, farms and villages is spfead before the view like an im- 
mense picture, stretching away in the distance until mingling with 
tile dim horizon; and the eye wanders in delighted admiration ovet 
the beautiful and extended scene. 

The Susquehanna, which flows along the eastern side of Cum-, 
berland, is the only navigable stream in the county. Conednguinet 
is a large creek, which rises in Franklin and runs in a very ser- 
pentine course through the northern part of Cumberland to the 
Susquehanna, into which it empties about two miles abo.ve Har- 
risburg. It affords water power to a number of mills and other 
manufacturing establishments ; but is an unsteady stream, being 
subject to freshets in heavy rains, and sometimes becoming very 
low in long continued periods of dry weather. Yellow Breeches 
creek rises from a number of large springs in the south-western 
part of the county near the South mountain, and flows through 
the southern portion of Cumberland until it forms the line between 
this and York county, — emptying into the Susquehanna three 
miles below Harrisburg. It is a clear, rapid, and lively stream; 
not liable to be affected by dry seasons, and scarcely freezing in 
winter. It affords an invaluable amount of water power to the 
mills, forges and furnaces situated upon it and its branches. The 
present uncouth appellation given to this beautiful stream renders 
It very desirable that its original Indian name should be restored ; 
this seems, however, now to be lost; for after the most dihgent re- 
search and inquiry we have been unable to discover it. 

Several very large springs rise within this county. One at 
Springfield, south of Newville, throws out a volume of water suf- 
ficient to turn several mill wheels within a few rods of the spring, 
and forms a considerable stream, which runs northward to the 
Conedoguinet, having its banks studded with mills. Letart's 
spring, south of Carlisle, also yields a flow of water sufficient for 
mills at its source, and for many others along the stream which 
runs from it. Many other large springs exist near the head of 
Yellow Breeches creek, in the south-western part of the county. 
Near Dublin gap, at the foot of the Blue mountain, is a spring 
strongly impregnated with sulphur; and Carlisle springs, four 
miles from the town, have acquired some note as a fashionable 
place of resort. At Mount Rock, seven miles west of CarUslej a 



CUMBERLAND COUNTY. 227( 

large spring issues from a limestone rock, the water from which, 
after running a short distance, sinks again into the earth, and 
passing under a hill, once more reappears on the north side and 
pursues its course to the Conedoguinet. 

The ridges of the South mountain, in the southern part of Cumberland, 
are almost wholly composed of hard white sandstone (I,) and have a 
meager rocky soil, mostly covered with timber, which yields fuel for the 
furnaces and forges in that region. At Pine Grove furnace, on Mountain 
creek, is a detacned bed of hmestone, of Umited extent, surrounded by the 
mountain sandstone ; and connected with it a deposit of brown argillaceous 
and hematite iron ore, which is productive and has beeu worked for many 
years. At the northern base of the South mountain commences the great 
limestone formation of the Kittatiny valley (11,) which extends northward 
until it meets the next formation of dark slate (III,) situate between the 
limestone and the Kittatiny mountain. Along the northern side of the 
South mountain, near the contact of the white sandstone with the lime- 
stone, iron ore is abundant, and is extensively mined for the supply of fur- 
naces. Further north, and wholly within the hmestone formation, pipe 
ore and other varieties of excellent quahty may be obtained in many places. 
The rocks of the Kittatiny mountain are the coarse gray and reddish sand- 
stones (IV) next in order above the slate, and are not particularly valuable 
either for their utiUty or their mineral contents. In the neighbourhood of 
Lisburn, on Yellow Breeches creek, the middle secondary red shales and 
sandstones pass across from York county, overlapping the hmestone to a 
limited extent. Large beds of the calcareous conglomerate belonging to 
the upper portion of this formation are visible along the steep banks of the 
creek; but the material is generally too sihcious to be worked and poUshed 
as the Potomac marble, with which it is identical in other respects. Some 
ridges and dikes of trap rock are also apparent in the same neighbourhood, 
connected with the great trappean range in the north of York county. A 
remarkable trap dike issues from the South mountain near Carhsle Iron 
works, and extends northward through the limestone and slate, forming 
an abrupt stony ridge quite across the county to the Blue mountain, east 
of Sterrett's gap. This dike is believed to pass through the Blue moun- 
tain, being probably the same which is seen near the Susquehanna in 
Perry county, and again east of the river in Lykens' valley above Millers- 
burg, in Dauphin county. 

The soil of the limestone portion of Cumberland is exceedingly- 
fertile, and is generally weU cultivated. Beautiful and highly im- 
proved farms offer a pleasing subject of attention to the traveller 
in this valley, where a healthy and industrious population, sur- 
rounded by comfort and plenty, find their wants abundantly sup- 
plied by the luxuriant productions of a region so highly favoured 
by nature. The slate lands, north of the limestone, are more un- 
even in surface, and the soil less fertile ; but when well farmed 
and improved by the use of lime and other manures, good crops 
are produced, and the labours of the husbandman are amply re- 
paid. 

Carlisle is the county town, situated on the turnpike, 18 miles 
west of Harrisburg, and 118 from Philadelphia. The Cumberland 
Vallev rail road, from Harrisburg to Chambersburg, also passes 
throi:^h it, affording daily communication east and west. Being 
pleasantly situated, in the midst of a healthy and fertile country, 
handsomely laid out, and well built, inhabited by a well bred and 
intelligent population, Carlisle is one of the most agreeable places 



2^ GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

in the interior of Pennsylvania. Tlie public buildings are a court 
house, a prison, a market house, a bank, and nine or ten churches, 
several of which are large and handsome edifices. Dickinson col- 
lege is a spacious building, 150 feet in length and four stories high, 
which, together with its enclosed grounds, is situated in the border 
of the town. The borough contains 4,351 inhabitants. A short 
distance east of the town are commodious barracks for the United 
States' troops, where numbers of them are frequently quartered. 
In the same neighbourhood is the county almshouse. 

Shippensbvrg is an old established town on the western border 
of the county, adjoining Franklin, with a population of 1,473. The 
turnpike and rail road from Carlisle to Chambersburg both pass 
through this place, and considerable local business is done here in 
the way of trade and manufactures. 

Mechanicsburg is a flourishing town on the rail road, about 8 
miles east of Carlisle, containing 700 inhabitants, situated in a fer- 
tile and well settled neighbourhood, and a place of increasing 
business. 

JVewville, is in the north-west part of the county, 12 miles from 
Carlisle, near the rail road, and has about 650 inhabitants. 

JVew Cumberland, a village at the mouth of Yellow Breeches 
creek, contains about 300 inhabitants, and has several flour mills, 
saw mills, nail works, &c. 

hisbmii is on Yellow Breeches creek, in the south-eastern part 
of Cumberland; and several other thriving villages exist in diffe- 
rent parts of the county. 

The productions are chiefly agricultural, consisting of various 
kinds of grain, live stock, salted provisions, &c. Manufactures, 
of different kinds, are also carried on to some extent. The county 
contains 8 furnaces and 5 forges, in which large quantities of iron 
are made from the ore of this region, and which yield employ- 
ment and support to a considerable number of workmen. The 
surplus productions of the county are mostly sent to Philadelphia 
by rail road or by the canal from Harrisburg, and to Baltimore by 
the Susquehanna or by land. Timber is abundant, the mountains 
affording a plentiful supply for the iron works, and the farms 
mostly having a sufficiency for domestic uses. Oak, hickory, 
chestnut, walnut, ash, poplar, &c., are the prevailing kinds. 
Pitch pine grows on the mountains and on the slate hills, and lo- 
cust is common in the limestone soil of the valley. 

The assessed value of real and personal property, made taxable 
for county purposes in 1842, was $11,368,510: county tax $11,368: 
State tax' $15, 145. 

The Cumberland Valley rail road extends through this county 
from the Susquehanna river at Harrisburg, westward by Mecha- 
nicsburg, Carlisle, Newville and Shippensburg to Chambersburg 
in Franklin county. The turnpike from Harrisburg to Chq|nbers- 
burg and Bedford also extends in the same direction. Another 
turnpike leads from Carlisle southward towards Baltimore. 

Cumberland county contains 18 school districts, and the com- 
mon school system has been generally adopted. The condition 



DAUPHIN COUNTY. 229 

ot education seems to be improving. Upwards of 120 schools are 
reported as being in operation, which are open from 4 to 11 
months in the year. 

Dickinson college, at Carlisle, was incorporated in 1783, and 
named in honour of John Dickinson, an eminent citizen, who was 
a liberal' donor to the institution. It has been frequently aided with 
funds granted by the State; but having several times suffered from 
fire, and being depressed by other adverse causes, its usefulness 
has been much impaired. Some years since it was placed under 
the care of the Methodist conference, since which time it has been 
apparently more prosperous. The number of students in the col- 
lege proper is 123, and in the preparatory department 56. There 
is also at Carlisle a female seminary containing about 50 pupils. 

This county is principally inhabited by the descendants of the 
early Irish and German settlers. The German language is yet 
spoken in many families, though there are few who cannot speak 
English. The inhabitants are generally a moral and industrious 
people; Sunday schools. Temperance, Bible, and Missionary so- 
cieties as well as other religious and benevolent associations are 
numerous. 

Among the natural curiosities of the county may be mentioned 
a large cave on the bank of the Conedoguinet, about a mile north 
of Carlisle. The entrance is by a semicircular archway, seven or 
eight feet high, in a limestone chfF immediately on the bank of the 
creek. From this a vaulted passage, eighty or ninety yards in 
length, leads to a point where it branches off in three directions. 
One of these leads to a large chamber, extending to a considerable 
distance: the others are smaller and of somewhat difficult access. 
This cave is well worthy of a visit from those who have never ex- 
plored more extensive subterranean wonders of the same kind. 

How is Cumberland county bounded? Describe the face of the country 
and name the principal mountains. What river flows along the eastern side? 
Describe the rise, course, and character of Conedoguinet creek. Of Yel- 
low Breeches creek. What large springs are mentioned ? Mineral springs ? 
At what place is iron ore found ? What remarkable dike of trap rock is 
mentioned and what is its extent ? What is said of the several varieties of 
soil ? Give a description of Carlisle, its situation, public buildings, &c. 
Where is Shippensburg ? Mechanicsburg ? Newville ? New Cumberland ? 
Lisburn ? What is said of the productions, iron works, &c. ? By what 
route is the suiplus produce sent to market? What are the common kinds 
of timber ? What rail road and turnpikes in the county ? What is said of 
the schools and the general condition of education ? Give an account of 
Dickinson college. From whom are the inhabitants mostly descended, and 
what is their character for morality and industry? Describe the cave on the 
bank of Conedoguinet near Carhsle. 

20. Dauphin County. 

Dauphin county is bounded on the north by Northumberland ; 
east by Schuylkill and Lebanon ; south by Lancaster ; and west 
by the Susquehanna river, which separates it from York, Cum- 
berland and Perry. Population, 30,118. 

20 



230 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

In the southern part are some tracts of comparatively level land, 
but most of that portion may be more properly termed rolling or 
hilly : the middle and northern parts are mountainous. The Kit- 
tatiny or Blue mountain extends from north-east to south-west 
across the middle of the county ; a little further northw^ard, and 
running parallel with the Blue mountain, is the Second moun- 
tain. The Third and Fourth mountains, entering this county from 
the eastward, unite in a high bold ridge which terminates about 
two miles east of the Susquehanna, and is there called the Third 
mountain. The Second mountain, crossing the Susquehanna be- 
low the town of Dauphin, folds round " the cove" on the west 
side of the river, and returns eastward again across the Susque- 
hanna below Duncan's island. It is here called Peters' mountain, 
and ranges north-eastward through Dauphin to the Schuylkill 
county line, near which it unites with Berry's mountain. The 
latter runs nearly eastward, from the Susquehanna below Millers- 
burg, to its junction with Peters' mountain. The Mahontongo 
mountain extends from the Susquehanna river along the whole 
northern border of the county. Bear and Big Lick mountains en- 
ter the north-eastern part of Dauphin, where they unite and ter- 
minate abruptly about twelve miles east of the river. Between 
Berry's and Peters' mountains is a series of irregular elevations 
known by the name of Dividing ridge, separating Armstrong's 
and Powell's valleys, and further eastward the Short or Broad 
mountain. 

The Susquehanna river forms the entire western boundary of 
Dauphin county, flowing along it for a distance of about 45 miles. 
The other principal streams are the Conewago creek, which sepa- 
rates this county from Lancaster on the south, Swatara, Paxton, 
Fishing, Stony, Clark^s, PowdVs, Armstrong's, JViconisco and 
Mahontongo creeks ; the last dividing Dauphin from Northumber- 
land county on the north. All these streams, together with Ma- 
nada and lieaver creeks which flow southward into the Swatara, 
have mill improvements on them, and most of them afford a large 
amount of water power Avhich is yet unemployed. The largest 
of these streams are the Swatara,. Clark's creek, Wiconisco, and 
Mahontongo. This county is well watered for agricultural pur- 
poses, containing, besides the creeks already named, numerous 
smaller streams in every part of it. 

Few counties in the State present so great a variety of geological features 
as Dauphin ; for in it we find nearly, if not quite, all the rock formations, 
from the white sandstone which overlies the primary rocks, upwards to the 
coal. By referring to the article on geology iri the early part of this work, 
the order and relative position of those formations will be perceived. 

The Conewago hills, in the southern part of the county, are composed 
of trap rock : north of these we find the middle secondary red shale and 
sandstone, extending as far as the neighbourhood of Highspire on the Sus- 
quehanna, where it overlaps the great hmestone formation of the Cumber- 
land valley (II). This limestone ranges from Lebanon county across Dau- 
phin to the Susquehanna ; its northern limit on the river being at the lower 
end of Harrisburg, and the line of junction between the limestone and slate 
passing thence eastward to the Swatara creek, north of Hummelstown, and 
60 on to the Lebanon county fine near Palmyra. Some belts of slate are 



DAUPHIN COUNTY. 231 

contained within the range of this Umestone, one of which may be observed 
passing from the Swatara west of Hummelstown, south of the poor house, 
and extending nearly to the Susquehanna. 

North of the Umestone is a broad slate formation (III,) having a hilly 
and rolling surface, which occupies the region between the northern limit 
of the limestone, and the southern base of the Kittatiny or Blue mountain. 
Some thin strata of limestone are found in certain parts of this slate range. 

The rocks of the Blue mountain consist chiefly of the hard, compact, 
white, gray and reddish sandstone (IV) which lies next in order above the 
last mentioned slate, and which forms so many of the mountain ridges in 
middle Pennsylvania. On the northern slope of this mountain and in the 
valley between it and the Second mountain, are the red and variegated shales 
(V) with the overlying limestone (VI), the fossiliferous sandstone (VII,) 
the olive slate (VIII.) and along the south side of the Second mountain the 
red and gray sandstones and red shale (IX) next in position. In order to 
account tor the small space occupied by so many formations, some of which 
in other parts of the State occupy of themselves a wide extent of country, 
it must be recollected that the strata here are nearly vertical, or in truth 
thrown rather beyond a vertical position, so that their order of superposi- 
tion is inverted, and the stratawhich really lie uppermost in place appear to 
dip steeply beneath those which are actually below them. Rock strata 
which are vertical can only occupy an area equal to their thickness, while 
those which approach the horizontal position, usually spread over a wide 
region. 

The Second mountain is mainly composed of a coarse hard grayish 
sandstone (X) which is also found in Peters' Berry's and Mahontongo 
mountains ; all these being in fact but the same ridge which winds round 
and recrosses the county several times. The rock next in order is the 
bright red shale (XI) which underlies the coarse pebbly conglomerate next 
below the coal bearing strata. This red shale is found encompassing all 
the anthracite coal fields, and from its softness and hability to decomposi- 
tion has been worn down so as usually to form valleys around the high 
sharp ridges which bound the coal basins. We accordingly find it extend- 
ing down the valley of Stony creek, between the Second and Third moun- 
tains, and folding round on the Susquehanna above the town of Dauphin, 
agEun following up the valley of Clark's creek, thus enclosing the coal field, 
of the Third and Fourth mountains. Passing round the junction of Peters'" 
and Berry's mountains on the east, it enters Williams' valley and stretches 
down Wiconisco creek again to the Susquehanna at Millersburg. The 
whole of Lykens' valley, which lies between Berry's and Mahontongo 
mountains, is of this red shale, the northern division of which extends up the 
valley of Pine creek into Schuylkill county, enclosing between it and the 
Williams' valley division, the Bear valley coal basin. 

The Third and Fourth mountains are composed of the coarse conglo- 
merates and sandstones (XII) which immediately underlie the coal, and it 
is in the high narrow depression between these ridges that the coal of the 
"Stony creek coal region" is found. Owing, however, to the displace- 
ment consequent upon the highly upheaved position of the rocks below it, 
and to the crushing effect near the junction of the uniting ridges, the coal 
beds towards the western extremity of this basin are confused and uncer- 
tain. Further eastward the prospect is better, and excellent coal has been 
obtained, some of which is so soft and free burning as to approach the 
bituminous character. 

The Big Lick and Bear mountains, in the north-eastern part of the county, 
are also of the cemented pebble or conglomerate rock, and in like manner 
enclose a coal basin, the western end of which extends into Dauphin county. 
This is commonly known by the name of the Bear valley coal region, the 
western point of which is at the junction of the two last named mountains, 
about twelve miles east of the Susquehanna. Most of the coal obtained 
from this valley has been mined at Bear gap, an opening in the Big Lick, 



232 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

mountain through which Bear creek flows southward towards Wiconisco 
creek. The mountains which bound the coal basin on the north and south 
are here about 750 feet in height above the level of Bear creek, and con- 
tain numerous coal strata which descend towards the centre of the narrow 
valley at an angle of about 45°. The gap made by the passage of Bear 
creek through the mountain has exposed the coal on both sides of the 
stream, and affords great facilities for mining it advantageously. One of 
the beds opened is eleven feet thick, two of seven feet, and others of less 
size. Several coal seams are known to exist here which have not yet been 
fully explored ; one has been ascertained to be 24 feet thick. Shafts have 
been sunk on the slope of the mountain north of the valley, and beds of 24, 
12, 10, 8 and 7 feet of coal have been found there. The mining operations 
at Bear gap are carried on by a company ; and a rail road, 16 miles in 
length, has been constructed from the mines to Millersburg on the Susque- 
hanna. Here the coal cars are ferried across the river to the Pennsylvania^ 
canal on the west side, and the coal discharged into canal boats, being 
chiefly transported to Baltimore by way of the Pennsylvania and Tide-water 
canals. The completion of the Wiconisco canal, on the east side, of the 
river, from Millersburg to the head of the Eastern division of the Penn- 
sylvania canal at Clark's ferry or Duncan's island, will greatly facilitate 
the coal trade from this region, oflTering a more convenient means of trans- 
portation, and one by which the troublesome necessity of ferrying the 
loaded cars across the Susquehanna may be avoided. 

The limestone region, in the southern and south-eastern part of 
the county, has a rich and loamy soil which is highly productive. 
The slate formation, between this and the Blue mountain, is more 
hilly and less fertile ; but by proper improvement and the free use 
of lime as a manure, may be made a fine agricultural region. The 
flats along the Susquehanna are generally sandy. Several of tne 
valleys in the middle part of the county are very narrow, and but 
little cultivated. Armstrong's and Powell's valleys, situated be- 
tween Berry's and Peters' mountains, belonging to the red shale 
and sandstone formation (IX) have a tolerable soil, and for eight 
or ten miles from the Susquehanna are generally settled and cul- 
tivated, though the surface is in many parts rough and hilly. The 
townships of Upper Paxton, Mifflin, Lykens and Wiconisco, lying 
in Lykens valley between Berry's and Mahontongo mountains, 
have mostly a red shale soil (XI,) and are thickly settled and 
well cultivated, producing good crops of wheat and other grain. 

The climate is generally healthy, and the mean annual tempe- 
rature at Harrisburg is nearly the same as at Philadelphia. Win- 
ter sets in somewhat earlier, and spring opens rather later than in 
the neighbourhood of the city. 

The principal town is Harrishurg, which is the seat of justice 
for the county, and capital of the State. The other towns and vil- 
lages are Middletown, Hummelstown, Halifax, Dauphin, Millers- 
Imrgy High^ire, Lingehtown, Gratztown, Berrysburg, and Wico- 
iiisco. 

Harrisburg is beautifully situated on the eastern bank of the 
Susquehanna, on a gently elevated plain between the river and 
Paxton creek. The public buildings belonging to the State occupy 
a commanding position on an eminence in the northern part of 
the town. The State House or Capitol is a large and handsome 
brick building, surmounted by a dome, and having a circular por- 



DAUPHIN COUNTY. 



233 




State Capitol at Harrisburg. 



tico in front supported by six lonie columns. The interior is con- 
veniently arranged : the first floor having a Senate chamber on the 
north, and a spacious hall for the House of Representatives on the 
south; between which is a large circular rotunda and stairease. 
On the second floor are apartments for the state Hbrary, canal 
commissioners, supreme court, and the committee rooms of the 
Senate and House of Representatives. At each end of the capi- 
tol are separate buildings for the State offices, constructed in a 
similar style of architecture. That on the north contains the Exe- 
cutive chamber, the offices of the secretary of the commonwealth 
and state treasurer; while that on the south is occupied by the 
surveyor general and the secretary of the land office. These 
public buildings stand in a large enclosure, planted with trees, and 
surrounded by a brick wall on which is a neat pahng. The state 
arsenal is on the public grounds south of the capitol. 

The county prison, lately erected, is a noble structure of the 
Gothic style, built of cut stone, and altogether affords an admira- 
ble specimen of prison architecture. Its interior arrangement is 
excellent and is planned with a view to the principle of separate 
confinement. 

The other public buildings are a court house, a spacious market 
house, and nine churches, -of which the Presbyterian, the Lutheran, 
and the German Reformed are large and commodious edifices. 

Harrisburg is abundantly supplied with pure water from the 
Susquehanna river. This is raised by steam power into a reser- 
voir on an eminence north of the Capitol, from which the water 
is distributed throughout the town by means of iron pipes. 

This town is rapidly increasing in extent and population. Many 

20* 



234 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

substantial and elegant private dwellings have been recently 
erected, and the general appearance of the place has been much 
improved. Population in 1840, 5,980. 

Middletown is situated on the Lancaster turnpike, 9 miles south- 
east of Harrisburg. Population 756. 

Hummelstown is on the turnpike from Harrisburg to Lebanon, 9 
miles from the former place. It is situated in a highly fertile lime- 
stone tract, and is inhabited chiefly by Germans and their descend- 
ants: Population, 480. 

Dauphin, Halifax, and Millersburg are towns on the Susque- 
hanna in the upper part of the county. Gratztown and Berrysburg 
are in Ly kens' valley : and Wiconisco is at the Bear gap coal 
mines. 

The agricultural productions of Dauphin are the same as those 
of the eastern and middle counties generally. Wheat and Indian 
corn are the principal, with rye, oats, buckwheat, potatoes, grass, 
&c. The forests afford a large supply of timber for fencing, fuel, 
the making of charcoal for iron works, &c. ; but no great amount is 
manufactured into lumber. There are three furnaces and one forge 
for the manufacture of iron in this county, besides a steam roUing 
mill, and two air furnaces in Harrisburg. The principal mineral 
production is coal, of which a considerable quantity is sent to 
market annually, and on completion of some improvements now 
in progress will be materially increased. 

During the season of navigation, most of the surplus produce 
of this county is sent to Baltimore by way of the Pennsylvania 
and Tide-water canals and Chesapeake bay ; but when the navi- 
gation is suspended, much of it finds its way to Philadelphia by the 
Harrisburg, Lancaster, and Philadelphia rail roads. The produce 
of Lykens' valley generally finds a ready market at Pottsville. 

The value of real estate, horses, cattle, &c., assessed for county 
purposes in 1842, was $10,039,407; county tax $30,948; State tax 
$13,146. 

The Pennsylvania canal extends along the Susquehanna, from 
the southern extremity of the county to Duncan's island, where it 
crosses the river; one division continuing ud the Juniata and the 
other up the western bank of the Susquehanna. The Wiconisco 
canal, not yet completed, extends from Clark's ferry to Millersburg, 
at the mouth of Wiconisco creek, a distance of 12 miles. The 
Lykens' valley rail road, a single track of fiat rails, is constructed 
for the transportation of coal from the mines at Bear gap to the 
Susquehanna at Millersburg, 16 miles. The Harrisburg and Lan- 
caster rail road extends from Harrisburg to Dillerville, near Lan- 
caster, where it connects with the Philadelphia and Columbia 
rail road. 

Turnpike roads lead from Harrisburg in various directions, to- 
wards York, Lancaster, Columbia, Lebanon, Clark's ferry and 
Carlisle ; these, together with the common roads, except in the 
more unsettled parts of the county, are kept in good order. Three 
noble bridges extend from this county across the Susquehanna. 
Two of these are at Harrisburg ; one of them, erected by the 



DAUPHIN COUNTY. 235 

Cumberland valley rail road company, is an elegant structure, 
having the rail road laid on the roof, and carriage ways beneath. 
The third is at Duncan's island or Clark's ferry, built by the State, 
having a tow path attached to the south side for the purpose of 
drawing canal boats across the river at that place. There are also 
several fine bridges across the Swatara, and other streams within 
the county. 

The state of education among the people at large is not flourish- 
ing; but since the introduction of the common school system, the 
condition of the youth in this respect is rapidly improving. There 
are 17 school districts in the county, of which 11 have accepted 
the law establishing common schools. Ten of these districts re- 
ported to the superintendent in 1842, having 74 schools, which 
are kept open an average of 6^ months in the year. 

The Harrisburg academy is a well conducted institution, in 
which are taught Latin and Greek, the natural sciences, geogra- 
phy, Enghsh grammar, &cc. The average number of pupils is"25, 
of whom 20 are pursuing classical studies. There are also some 
excellent private schools. Probably more than three fourths of the 
people of this county can speak the German language ; half of 
them speak it generally ; but there are few who cannot speak En- 
ghsh also, and these are found principally in the upper part of the 
county. 

Dauphin was originally a part of Lancaster, and was first settled 
by Irish and Scotch emigrants. The Germans followed, and their 
descendants now occupy most of the county. The first clergyman 
settled in this part of the country was John Elder, a Scotchman, 
who preached for 56 years in the Paxton church, about two miles 
from where Harrisburg now stands. He wielded the sword of the 
flesh as well as that of the spirit, and held for several years a 
colonel's commission in the .provincial service ; commanding the 
stockades and block-houses that extended from the Susquehanna 
to the Delaware at Easton. It is said that he often carried his 
rifle into the pulpit, and his congregation were prepared in the 
same way against attacks from the Indians. About the year 
1756, the church was surrounded by the savages so closely that, 
as was afterwards learned from an escaped prisoner, the rifles in 
the church were counted by the Indians ; but as there appeared to 
be too many of them, the savages went off" without molesting the 
congregation. In the year following, the congregation were at- 
tacked after they had dispersed, and two or three were killed and 
others wounded. The farmers were in the habit of carrying their 
rifles into the fields with them for their protection while at work. 

A number of those who were called friendly Indians were in the 
habit of coming down among the settlements of the whites about 
the beginning of summer. They remained in small parties about 
the country until towards winter, making baskets and pursuing 
other Indian avocations. When they went off" there were generally 
some murders committed, supposed to be by them on their route; 
but the perpetrators could never be identified. It was a succession 
of outrages of this kind that led to the expedition of the *' Paxton 



236 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



boys," -which resuked in the murder of a considerable number of 
the Indians who were placed for protection in the jail at Lancaster. 
John Harris, the father of the founder of Harrisburg, fixed his 
habitation at an early day on the bank of the river, near the pre- 
sent lower end of the town. He traded extensively with the Indi- 
ans, sending his skins and furs to Philadelphia on pack horses, 
and bringing back such articles of merchandise as were desirable 
to the savages. He also engaged in agriculture, and is said to 
have been the first person who introduced the plough on the banks 
of. the Susquehanna. .This enterprising pioneer of civilization 
was, however, frequently in danger. On one occasion a company 
of Indians came to his house, on their return from a trading excur- 
sion, many of them being intoxicated. They asked him for rum, 
but were refused, as he feared mischief if they should obtain more. 
Enraged at his refusal, they seized and tied him to a mulberry tree 
on the bank of the river to burn him ahve. During their proceed- ■ 




John Harris rescued by the friendly Indians. 

ings a band of friendly Indians in the neighbourhood, to whom the 
alarm had by some means been given, came to his rescue, and he 
was released after a severe struggle between the parties. In re- 
membrance of this event, he afterwards directed that on his death 
he should be buried under the tree where this adventure occurred. 
He died about the year 1748, and according to his request was bu- 
ried under this memorable tree, where his remains still repose, 
together with those of some of his family. Part of this tree is yet 
standing, and is enclosed in a grave yard 15 feet square, the title to 
which is secured by conveyance from the commissioners who laid 
out the town. 



DELAWARE COUNTY. 237 

A son of this John Harris, also named John, became the pro- 
prietor of a large tract of land, on part of which Harrisburg now 
stands. During his time " Harris' ferry" became a noted place, 
and it is said that twenty years before the town was laid out, he 
predicted that it would become the centre of business in this part 
of the country, and would some day be the seat of government of 
Pennsylvania. Accordingly, when the town was laid out in 1785, 
he conveyed to the commissioners four acres of ground on the hill 
where the Capitol now stands, '^'in trust for public use, and such 
public purposes as the legislature shall hereafter direct." 

The act for establishing the seat of government at Harrisburg 
was passed February 21, 1810; and the offices and public docu- 
ments were removed from Lancaster in October,, 1812. i 

By what counties is Dauphin bounded? What portions are level, hilly, 
and mountainous? Describe the situations and extent of the several moun- 
tains mentioned. What river is on the west ? Name the other principal 
streams. What geological formations occupy the southern part of this 
county? Describe the range of the hmestone. Of the slate. What are 
the rocks of the Blue mountain ? What between this and the Second 
mountain ? In the Second and other mountains ? In what valleys is the 
red shale (XI) found? On what mountains is the pebbly conglomerate 
rock ? Describe the situation of the Stony creek and Bear valley coal ba- 
sins ? What is said of the coal beds at Bear gap ? How is this coal con- 
veyed from the mines to the canal ? What is the character of the soil on 
the limestone and slate ? Of that on the other formations ? What is said 
of the climate t Name the principal towns. How is Harrisburg situated ? 
Describe the state capitol ; — the county prison. What are the other 
pubhc buildings ? How is the town supplied with water ? What is said 
of its improvement in extent and population ? Where is Middletown ? 
Hummelstown ? Dauphin? Halifax? Millersburg ? What towns in Ly- 
kens' valley ? Where is Wiconisco ? What are the productions of agri- 
culture ? — of the forest ? What iron works in the county ? What is the 
principal mineral production? By what way are the surplus productions 
sent to a market ? What canals are in the county ? — rail roads ? — turn- 
pikes ?— bridges ? What is said of the condition of education ? — ^of the 
common schools ? — of the Harrisburg academy ? What proportion of the 
inhabitants speak German ? Of what county was this originally a part, 
and by whom settled ? Who was the first clergyman, and what is said of 
him ? Relate some of the troubles Avhich occurred with the Indians. 
Where did John Harris settle, and in what business was he engaged ? 
What was done to him by a party of Indians ? How was he released from 
them ? Where was he afterwards buried, according to his own direction ? 
What is said of his son John, the founder of Harrisburg ? What land did 
he give for public use ? When did Harrisburg become the seat of govern- 
ment? 

21. Delaware County. 

Delaware is bounded on the north-east and east by the counties 
of Montgomery and Philadelphia; on the south and south-west by 
the river Delaware and state of Delaware ; and on the west and 
north-west by the county of Chester, to which it originally be- 
longed, having been erected into a separate county under the name 
of Delaware in 1789. 

It is the smallest county in the State except Philadelphia ; con- 



238 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

taining but about 177 square miles, or 114,281 acres of land. Po- 
pulation 19,791. 

The face of the country is generally hilly or undulating, except 
near the river, where there are large tracts of level meadow, very 
valuable for grazing or pasturage. 

The geological formation of this county belongs to the primary class, 
with some variations of metamorphic and igneous character. Gneiss and 
mica slate are the prevailing rocks ; modified in some places by the in- 
fluence of trap and other injected matter. In Upper Providence and Rad- 
nor townships there are beds of serpentine. Vast quantities of stone for 
building and other uses are quarried in this county : the rock principally 
used for this purpose is a gray granitic gneiss, which being found near the 
tide-waters of the several creeks, is easily transported to Philadelphia and 
other places. A whetstone, peculiarly adapted to sharpening scythes and 
shoe-makers' and saddlers' knives, is found on Darby and Crum creeks, 
from which a supply of this article for nearly the whole United States is 
furnished. 

The soil of Delaware county, being derived chiefly from the 
disintegration of primary rocks, is not naturally of the most fertile 
character ; but by careful attention to its improvement by judicious 
culture, and the use of lime, gypsum and other manures, it has 
been rendered so productive as to be surpassed by few counties in 
the State. 

Besides the river Delaware which forms part of the southern^ 
and the Brandywine, part of the western boundary of this county, 
there are several other considerable streams which are navigable 
to the head of tide-water, Chester, Ridley, Crum and Darhy creeks, 
all rising in Chester county and flowing southward to the river 
Delaware, pass across the whole breadth of Delaware county. In 
addition to these are Cobb's, Gh'eeii's, Marcus Hook, JVaylor's run. 
Gulf, and several other small creeks. These streams furnish water 
power for a great number of mills and manufacturing establish- 
ments which are in operation. The county abounds in exceUent 
springs, which water every farm and almost every enclosure. 

Chester, originally called Upland, is the county town, situated 
on the Delaware 15 miles below Philadelphia. It contains about 
900 inhabitants, and has a court house, a jail, a market house, a 
bank, several churches, a library and a lyceum. Chester is an in- 
corporated borough ; it is also a port of entry, though seldom used 
as such. Vessels bound to Philadelphia frequently lie here in the 
winter, waiting the opening of the navigation upwards, and two 
long wharves or piers for their protection from floating ice have 
been erected, which form a harbour, and are kept in repair by the 
United States' government. The first provincial assembly of 
Pennsylvania was held here in 1682, shortly after the landing of 
William Penn's colony. 

Marcus Hook is on the Delaware, three miles below Chester, 
near the south-east corner of the county and State. It contains 
about 400 inhabitants. The market house, not used perhaps for 
nearly half a century, and a number of dilapidated buildings would 
seem to furnish evidence of decline in this little town ; but a spirit 
of improvement recently manifested will, it is hoped, at least re« 



DELAWARE COUNTY. 239 

cover what has ' been lost or neglected. Many years ago, large 
vessels wintered here in a safe harbour, protected by projecting 
wharves ; but the dock is now partly filled up and affords but 
little protection to shipping. 

Above Chester is the Lazaretto, where vessels coming from 
sickly ports, or those suspected to be infected by contagious dis- 
eases, perform quarantine under the regulations of the health of- 
fice of Philadelphia. 

Darby is a village situated on the creek of the same name, at 
the head of tide-water, and midway between Philadelphia and 
Chester. The three towns of Chester, Marcus Hook and Darby 
are among the oldest in Pennsylvania; but from some cause they 
have improved perhaps less than any others in the State. Their 
increase of population falls much behind that of the country adjacent. 

Besides the towns already mentioned there are several thriving 
villages of recent growth, amongst which are Leiperville, Howell- 
ville, Lima and Village-Green. There are also a number of 
manufacturing villages which have sprung up around the larger 
<iotton and woollen factories, of which Rockdale on Chester creek 
is the largest. 

The principal agricultural productions of this county are wheat, 
corn, oats, and potatoes; but the soil being peculiarly fertile in 
grass, most of the farmers, to a greater or lesser extent, devote their 
attention to grazing and the productions of the dairy. Both the 
butter and beef of Delaware county are highly esteemed in the 
Philadelphia market; and great numbers of the fat cattle are 
driven to New York for the supply of that city. In the summer 
season fresh butter is sent weekly from this county by the rail 
road to the Baltimore and Washington markets. 

Delaware ranks among the foremost counties in the stale for 
manufactures, particularly those of cotton and woollen goods. It 
has 25 cotton and 12 woollen factories, which employ upwards of 
3000 persons, and produce articles to the value of about $2,000,000 
annually. There are also in this small county 31 flour mills, 
48 saw-mills, a number of paper mills, rolling mills, furnaces 
for castings, tanneries, potteries, carriage manufactories, machine 
shops and various other establishments for manufacturing purposes. 

The value of real and personal estate assessed for county pur- 
poses, in 1842, was $6,578,628; amount of county tax $14,623; 
State tax $9,927. 

A rail road leading from Philadelphia by Wilmington to Balti- 
more passes through this county. The Philadelphia and Columbia 
rail road crosses the north-eastern part, as does also the turnpike 
from Philadelphia to Lancaster. The only canal in the county is 
one of something more than a mile in length, which has been 
constructed by the proprietor of Leiper's extensive stone quarries, 
in order to convey the stone to vessels in the tide-water. 

The condition of the common roads is improving, and bridges 
are constructed over the creeks on most of the leading roads in the 
county. 

The native citizens of Delaware county, in point of education 



240 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

and intelligence, are not inferior to the population of any other 
county in the State. 

The condition of the common schools in some of the districts is 
excellent, and in most of them it is improving. Nearly all the 
districts in the county have accepted the law: in some of them the 
schools are kept open during the whole year ; but generally not 
more than 7 or 8 months, unless continued by private subscription, 
which is frequently the case. There are about 68 school houses 
in the county, which are mostly substantial edifices of stone or 
brick. 

" Haverford Central school," in which the usual collegiate 
course of instruction is given, was established by the society of 
Friends about the year 1831. The advantages of the school are 
confined to the sons of members of that society. A large and con- 
venient building has been erected .for its accommodation : it has 
four teachers or professors, and about 50 students. 

Sharon boarding school for girls is near Darby, and is a well 
conducted institution. 

The " Delaware county Institute of Science," located in Upper 
Providence township, was established a few years since as an 
auxiliary in the cause of education and the diffusion of useful 
knowledge. It has a museum which contains a large number of 
specimens in the animal, vegetable and mineral departments of 
natural science, besides many other curiosities. Lectures are 
delivered in the Hall of the Institute during the winter season and 
are generally well attended. 

The Radnor Lyceum has also a collection of specimens, and 
sustains a course of lectures during the winter. 

This county contains six public Libraries : one at Darby con- 
taining 2000 volumes ; one at LTpper Providence, 1150; one at 
Chester, 600; one at Radnor, 300; one at Concordville, 250; and 
one at Springfield, 200. 

There are 48 places of public worship, of which there are be- 
longing to Friends 16, Methodists 12, Baptists 6, Episcopal 5, 
Presbyterian 4, New Jerusalem 1, Christian 1, Congregation aHst 
1, Roman Catholic 1, Free 1. 

The English language is now universally spoken in the county. 
The first settlers were Swedes, who established themselves along 
the Delaware about the year 1638. They continued in possession 
until the landing of William Penri, and afterwards those who re- 
mained became blended with the general influx of settlers from 
England. The site of the large mansion erected by the Swedish 
governor Printz, on the island of Tinicum, can stiU be shown. 
The celebrated historical painter, Benjamin West, was a native of 
this county ; and the house in which he was born is yet standing 
in the township of Springfield. 

How is Delaware bounded and to what county did it originally belong ? 
What is said of the face of the country ? Describe its geological character ? 
What valuable material is obtained from the rocks of this county ? What 
is said of the soil ? What two rivers water the county ? Mention the 
principal creeks. Give a description ■ of the county town ; — of Marcus 



ELK AND ERIE COUNTIES. 241 

Hook. Where is the Lazaretto? Darby? Mention the principal vil- 
lages. What are the productions of agricuhure and of the grazing farms ? 
What is said of the manufactures of Delaware ? Name some of the prin- 
cipal branches carried on. What rail roads, turnpike, and canal are in this 
county ? What is said of the education and intelligence of the inhabitants ? 
The number of common schools and their condition ? Give some account 
of Haverford Central school, and Sharon boarding school. Of the Dela- 
ware county institute of science. Radnor lyceum. How many places of 
pubhc worship are there, and what are the principal religious societies ? 
Mention the public libraries. Who were the first settlers of the county ? 
With what others did they become blended ? What ancient building was 
on Tinicum island ? What celebrated painter was born in this county ? 

22. Elk County. 

The new county of Elk was erected by an act of the legislature 
at the session of 1843, and is composed of the former north- 
western part of Clearfield, the north-east of Jefferson, with a por- 
tion from the south of M'Kean. 

It contains no towns, and but a few scattered settlements, being 
a remote unfrequented region, covered with thick forests abound- 
ing with, wild animals. The few inhabitants which it contains 
are mostly lumbermen and hunters. 



When was Elk county erected, and from what counties was it taken? 
What is said of the nature of the country ? 

23. Erie County. 

Erie county is in the north-western corner of Pennsylvania, 
having lake Erie on the north-west, the state of Ohio on the west, 
Crawford county on the south, and Warren county and the state 
of New York on the east and north-east. Its population, accord- 
ing to the census of 1840, is 31,344. 

The country presents a rolling surface, with a ridge of high 
land extendino- nearly parallel with the lake shore at some miles' 
distance from it. This ridge separates the waters which flow north- 
ward into lake Erie from those which reach the Ohio by way of 
French creek and the Allegheny river. The soil of the northern 
portion of the county, bordering on the lake, is said to be best 
adapted to the cultivation of grain, and produces fine wheat and 
corn. In the south it is more favourable to grass, and grazing and 
dairy farms are found most profitable. 

The rock formations chiefly consist of the argillaceous sandstones, shales 
and slates underlying the coal bearing strata, and are not remarkable for 
the value of their mineral contents. Some deposites of iron ore are found, 
from one of which, within 7 miles of the town of Erie, a blast furnace is 
supplied. 

French creek and its numerous branches water the southern 
part of the county ; in the west and north are Corineaut, Elk, and 
Walnut creeks, with a number of smaller streams, which flow 
into lake Erie. 

The climate is healthy and pleasant: the breezes from the lake 

21 



242 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

moderating the sultry heats of summer, and the winter is less se- 
vere than in the more elevated portions of the State. At the town 
of Erie the thermometer rarely indicates a higher degree of heat 
than 92"^, and seldom falls below 0. 

jG?'te, the county town, is situated on a bay which extends from 
the lake between the peninsula of Presque Isle and the main land. 
It was laid out in 1785, and is now an incorporated borough con- 
taining 3,412 inhabitants. The pubhc buildings are a court house, 
prison, market house, academy, two banks, and eight houses for 
public worship, belonging to Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Me- 
thodists, Baptists, German Reformed, and CathoHcs. 

This place possesses many advantages in a commercial point of 
view. The harbour is one of the best on lake Erie, containing 
about six square miles of good anchorage, with an average depth 
of 20 feet, and is capable of affording complete protection to a 
large fleet, both from the weather and from an enemy. Fortifica- 
tions for its defence have been comriienced by the government of 
the United States. This is also one of the points of connexion 
between the commerce of the Atlantic and the western states and 
lakes, by means of the canals and rail roads already made and in 
course of construction in Pennsylvania. On the completion of the 
Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal, it will be connected 
with Pittsburg, that vast laboratory of manufacturing industry 
and commercial enterprise, and will have opened to it the rapidly- 
increasing trade of the Ohio and Mississippi, as well as a commu- 
nication by canal and rail road with Philadelphia and Baltimore. 

Waterford is situated near lake Le Bceuf, on the turnpike from 
Erie to Meadville and Pittsburg. It is an incorporated borough, 
with a population of about 400. There are a number of other 
flourishing towns and villages, the principal of which are Watts- 
burg, North East, Edinboro, Springfield, Girard, Juliet and Wes- 
leyville. 

The principal agricultural productions are wheat, Indian corn, 
oats, buckwheat, potatoes, wool, butter and cheese. There are 
about 40 grist mills and 120 saw mills in the county. Lumber to 
a considerable amount is produced from the forests, and 125 tons 
of pot and pearl ash, and 254,241 pounds of maple sugar are an- 
nually made. Three woollen factories and 15 fulling mills are in 
operation, and various other branches of manufacture are success- 
fully pursued. One blast furnace and two foundries are in use for 
the production of cast iron. 

The value of property subject to taxation in 1842, was assessed 
at $3,270,435 ; county tax $11,721 : State tax $4,294. 

Of the public improvements within the county, the principal is 
that portion of the State canal usually termed the Erie extension, 
which passing northward from the Beaver division, crosses the 
counties of Mercer and Crawford, and extends from the southern 
line of Erie county to the lake shore at the town of Erie. Acts 
of incorporation have been granted for constructing rail roads from 
Erie to Watlsburg, and from Erie to North East. A turnpike road 
extends from Erie, through Waterford to the southern line of the 



FAYETTE COUNTY. 243 

county, and thence continues to Meadville in Crawford county, 
where it connects with the Mercer, Butler and Pittsburg turnpike, 
and also with that leading through Franklin and Brookville to 
Bellefonte, in Centre county. 

In most parts of Erie county a commendable degree of attention 
is paid to the subject of popular education. The common school 
system is adopted in all the districts, which are 24 in number, and 
contain an aggregate of 233 schools. These are kept open for in- 
struction during an average period of nearly seven months in the 
year. The academy at Erie is reported to contain about 70 pupils, 
and is tolerably well sustained : there is also in this town a semi- 
nary for the education of young ladies, and a select school called 
the Erie institute. There is also a flourishing academy at Wa- 
terford. 

The inhabitants are mostly of New England origin, though 
there are many settlers from other parts of Pennsylvania. The 
general character of the population for intelligence, morality and 
industry will not suffer by a comparison with that of most otlier 
counties in the State. 

Only the southern part of this county was included within the 
original boundaries of Pennsylvania, the north-western corner of 
the State then just touching the shore of the lake. In 1789 the 
harbour of Erie, then known as Presque Isle, with the triangular 
territory now included in this county beyond the original northern 
line of the State, was purchased from the United States for the sum 
of $151,640. This purchase was made with a view of securing 
to Pennsylvania the advantages of a harbour, as well as an extent 
of about 30 miles of lake shore" and the benefit of an outlet for the 
trade, commerce and productions of the State in this direction. 
The result has proved auspicious, and reflects credit upon the 
wisdom and prudent sagacity of the statesmen of those early days. 

In what part of the State is Erie county, and how bounded ? What is 
said of the face of the country ? — of the soil ? What is said of the rock 
formations and minerals ? Name the principal streams ? Tell the charac- 
ter of the cUmate. Describe the county town, its public buildings, &c. 
What are the advantages of its situation ? In what part of the county is 
Waterford ? What other places are mentioned ? Mention the products of 
agriculture. Of the forest. Of manufactures. What pubhc improve- 
ments are in this county ? Turnpikes ? What is the condition of educa- 
tion ? Give an account of the common schools. Of the academies, &c. 
What is said of the inhabitants and of their general character? When, and 
for how much was a part of this county purchased from the United States ? 
For what purpose was this done ? 

24. Fayette County. 

Fayette has the county of Westmoreland on the north, Somer- 
set on the east, the states of Maryland and Virginia on the south, 
and the counties of Greene and Washington on the west. Popu- 
lation by the census of 1840, 33,574. 

Two mountain ridges cross this county, of which the most east- 



244 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

em, properly called Laurel hill, forms the county line as far south- 
ward as to the Youghiogeny river. About 12 miles west of this 
is the other, which, south of the Youghiogeny, is also called Lau- 
rel hill, but is properly a continuation of the same range which 
further northward is known by the name of Chestnut ridge. The 
country between these mountains, and west of the latter, presents 
a rolling and uneven surface. 

The largest river is the Monongahela, which forms the western 
boundary of the county from the Virginia line to its north-western 
extremity. The Youghiogeny flows northward out of Maryland, 
separating Fayette from Somerset for 10 or 12 miles, and then 
passing through Fayette in a north-western direction, until it en- 
ters Westmoreland. Redstone and Dunlap's creeks are consider- 
able streams emptying into the Monongahela. Besides these, 
there are many smaller streams in different parts of the county, 
which supply power to numerous mills and other manufacturing 
establishments. 

This county lies within the bituminous coal region, and coal is almost 
every where abundant except near the summits of Laurel Hill and Chest- 
nut ridge, where the rocks i%xt below the coal formation are brought to 
the surface by an antidinal axis. Along the sides of these ridges, and 
near their bases, iron ore is abundant in many situations, and is mined for 
the supply of furnaces in the neighborhood. 

A large proportion of the soil, particularly in that part of the 
county which hes west of Chestnut ridge, is of good quality and 
well adapted to agricultural purposes. 

Uniontoion, the county seat, is pleasantly situated in a healthy 
and fertile neighbourhood, about 4 miles west of Chestnut ridge, 
or as it is here called. Laurel hill. It is an incorporated borough, 
and contains 1710 inhabitants. The public buildings are a com- 
modious court house with adjoining buildings for county offices, 
a prison, and six churches belonging to Methodists, Presbyterians, 
Episcopalians and Baptists, all neat edifices of brick. Madison 
coUege is a brick building, beautifully situated, having an enclo- 
sure of several acres of ground ornamented with trees. There are 
two steam mills in the borough, and other manufacturing and me- 
chanical operations are successfully carried on. This town appears 
to be in a flourishing condition, having within the last ten years 
greatly increased in extent and population. 

Brownsville, on the Monongahela, 12 miles north-west from 
Uniontown, is a flourishing manufacturing town, and a place of 
considerable business. It contains manufactories of cotton, glass, 
paper, &c., together with a rolhng mill and an establishment for 
making steam engines. The public bufldings are a town hall, and 
five or six churches. Population 1362. On the opposite side of 
Dunlap's creek, and connected with Brownsville by a beautiful 
iron bridge, is the village of Bridgeport, containing 788 inhabit- 
ants. Connellsville, on the east side of the Youghiogeny, 10 miles 
north-eastward from Uniontown, is a thriving place, containing 
four or five churches and a number of manufacturing establish- 
ments, among which are several iron foundries, plough factories. 



FAYETTE COUNTY. 245 

&CC. On the opposite side of the river, and connected with the last 
named town by a fine wooden bridge, is New Haven, where there 
is a large woollen factory built of brick, four stories high, a steam 
mill and a paper mill. 

Perryopolis is in the northern part of the county, 14 miles north 
of Uniontown, in a fertile tract of land called Washington bottom, 
said to have been taken up by General Washington in 1755, whea 
this region was supposed to belong to Virginia. There is a glass 
factory at this place. Cooksic/wn, on the Monongahek six miles 
below Brownsville, also contains glass works and a large steam 
saw-mill. Germantown, Smithfield and JVew Geneva are villages 
in the south-western part of the county. The last named place is 
on the Monongahela, and contains a manufactory of glass. 

Agriculture is in a flourishing state in this county : the chief 
productions are wheat and the other kinds of grain usually culti- 
vated in Pennsylvania, flour, live stock, wool, &,c. Maple sugar 
is made to some extent in the southern part of the county. The 
surplus produce is either sent to Pittsburg, or by the National road 
to Cumberland, whence it is transported by rail road to Baltimore. 

In addition to the manufactures already mentioned, there are in 
the eastern part of the county six or seven furnaces in which iron 
is smelted from the ore of Laurel hill and Chestnut ridge. 

The National turnpike road from Cumberland to Wheeling 
crosses the whole breadth of Fayette county, a distance of more 
than 30 miles, passing through Uniontown and Brownsville. This 
road is admirably constructed and kept in excellent order, affording 
to the inhabitants an easy means of transportation and travel, both 
eastward and westward. The improvements commenced by the 
Monongahela Navigation Company will also be a great benefit to 
the people of this region, as a means of facilitating their trade 
with Pittsburg, and the towns on the Ohio and Mississippi. 

The common school system is in general operation throughout 
the county. In 18 of the 21 school districts which it contains, 
123 schools are reported as being taught under the provisions of 
the law, and are kept open during an average time of 5 months in 
the year. Madison college at Uniontown is reported as having 
80 students in the collegiate and 51 in the preparatory department. 

Of the various religious denominations, the Methodists and 
Presbyterians are most numerous: there are also many Baptists 
and Episcopalians, and some Catholics and Friends. 

In this, as in most of the other counties, the assessed value of 
real and personal estate subject to county taxes falls far short of 
the real value and amount of property within the county. The 
assessment in Fayette for 1842 was $3,805,931 : county tax 
|14,.529: State tax $6,400. 

In the early history of this county we meet with many an inte- 
resting tale of the dangers and difficulties encountered by the first 
settlers in their contests with the Indians. It was here, too, that 
young Washington, with his small but intrepid band of Virginians, 
so bravely defended themselves against a greatly superior force of 
French and Indians, and the remains of old Fort Necessity are 

21* 



246 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

still left to mark a spot celebrated in the history of that expedition. 
The army led by General Braddock from Fort Cumberland^ against 
the French and Indians, in 1755, also crossed this county, and the 
road which they cut in their passage through the wilderness is 
yet in many places distinctly visible. The spot where Braddock 
is said to have been buried, on the retreat of the army after their 
defeat on the Monongahela, is still shown in the neighbourhood 
of Fort Necessity, near the National road, about 10 miles east of 
Uniontown. 

Among the natural curiosities of Fayette may be mentioned 
Delany's cave, situate-d on Chestnut ridge or West Laurel hill, 
about eight miles south of Uniontown. It is said to have been 
explored to a distance of 3600 feet from the entrance, with a de- 
scent of 1600 feet, — rcontaining many narrow and winding passages 
which descend to various spacious rooms and avenues, some of 
which are described as being 1200 feet in length and from 30 to 
80 feet from the floor to the roof. In almost every part of this 
spacious cavern springs and streams of water are found, and ac- 
cording to the account of some who have visited these subterranean 
wonders, there is, in the largest room, a stream running through 
its whole length, of sufficient size to turn a grist mill. 

Ohiopile falls are on the Youghiogeny, below the gap by which 
that river passes through the mountain ridge called East Laurel 
hill, in a wild and secluded spot, where the hand of man has yet 
done little to destroy the primitive beauty of our wild native 
scenery. Here, embosomed in the dark forest and enclosed be- 
tween precipitous hills, the foaming river dashes madly over a 
perpendicular ledge of rock which rises like a wall across the 
stream, forming a cataract of singular beauty and wildness, whose 
deep and sullen roar is almost the only sound that is heard to 
disturb the gloomy silence of the solitary woods, or to wake an 
echo from the surrounding hills. 

About six miles east of Uniontown, on the National road, are 
the " Fayette springs," a place of some resort during the summer 
season. The water is believed to possess medical virtues; the 
accommodations for visiters are ample and comfortable, which, 
Avith the pure air and romantic features of the neighbourhood, 
make the place a desirable and pleasant retreat from the cares of 
business and the sultry atmosphere of the noisy town. 

By what counties and states is Fayette bounded ? What two mountain 
ridges cross it ? Describe the rivers and creeks. What are the mineral 
productions ? Quahty of the soil ? What is the county town and how 
situated ? Mention the pubhc buildings, college, and manufactures. 
Where is Brownsville, and what manufactures are carried on there ? 
What village is connected with it ? Give an account of Connellsville. 
Perryopolis. Cookstown. What other places are mentioned? What is 
said of agriculture, and how is the surplus produce sent to a market ? 
What ironworks are established? What is said of the National turn- 
pike, and the Monongahela navigation ? Common schools ? Madison 
college? Religious societies? What interesting historical events have 
occurred in this county ? Where are the remains of Fort Necessity ? 
Describe Delany's cave. Ohiopile falls. Fayette springs. 



FRANKLIN COUNTY. 
25. Franklin County. 



247 



Franklin county is bounded on the west by Bedford ; north-west 
by Huntingdon; north-east by Perry and Cumberland; east by 
Adams; and south by the state of Maryland. Its greatest extent 
from north to south is 38 miles, and from east to west 34 miles, 
containing an area of 734 square miles or 469,760 acres. Popula- 
tion in 1840,37,793. 

The greater part of this county consists of an extensive valley 
of fertile land, Avell cultivated and highly improved. On the east 
is the range of hills called the South mountain, the elevation of 
which, above the middle of the valley, is from 600 to 900 feet. 
On the west and north-west is a more elevated and rugged range, 
of which the most conspicuous is the North or Blue mountain, 
which, having stretched in an almost unbroken line from the De- 
laware south-westward, abruptly terminates in this county in a 
high peak called Parnell's knob, about two miles east of Loudon. 
A little further westward is Jordan's knob, another bold, pictur- 
esque elevation, formed by a turning or folding of the same range, 
from which the ridge then runs north-eastward along the east side 
of Path vaUey. West of Path valley is Tuscarora mountain 




Jordan's Knob, Frauldin County. 

which Stretches south-westward from the Juniata, and forms the 
north-western boundary of Franklin county. South of the Cham- 
bersburg and Bedford turnpike, this ridge is called the Cove 
mountain, and under this name passes southward into Maryland. 
Some of the highest elevations in the north-west of the county 
have been estimated at 1,500 feet above the valley. In the south- 
west are two knobs, called Clay -lick and Two-top mountains 



248 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

which are ihe northern terminations of ridges crossing the State 
line from Maryland. 

The irregular chain of hills called the South mountain consists, in this 
county, almost entirely of the hard white sandstone which lies next above 
the primary rocks (I). In the valley westward of this is the great hmestone 
formation (II,) which has been described in our article on the general geo- 
logy of the State, as extending throughout the whole length of this valley, 
from Easton on the Delaware to the Maryland hne. In Franklin county, 
as elsewhere, interposed beds of differently coloured slates are found in the 
limestone, and sometimes also sandstones are met with in a hke position. 
Along the eastern side of the hmestone range, and near its junction with 
the mountain sandstone, are valuable and extensive beds of iron ore, which 
supply the furnaces in operation in that region. Ore is also found at many 
places in the valley, most of which, particularly that variety called pipe ore, 
is of a superior quality. 

The soil of the South mountain is sandy and sterile, and not favourable 
to the culture of grass or grain. It is a wild and desert region, covered 
with forests which yield fuel for the iron works on its borders, and offers 
but little attraction to any except the wood- cutter and the hunter. But on 
reaching the great limestone valley, on the west of these hills, a most 
striking contrast is presented. A soil of almost unsurpassed fertiUty, highly 
cultivated farms, neat and even elegant buildings, an industrious, inteUi- 
gent, and happy population, gladden the eye of the traveller as he passes 
through this beautiful and favoured region. It is estimated that Franklin 
county contains 180,000 acres of hmestone land. 

On the north-west and west of the hmestone is the dark slate formation 
(III) next above it in geological position ; the line of junction passing from 
a Uttle northward of Shippensburg, south-westward by Chambersburg and 
Greencastle, to the Maryland line. In the south-western part of the county, 
however, in the neighbourhood of Mercersburg, owing to the disturbance 
consequent upon the elevation of the mountain chains, we find the hme- 
stone again appearing in belts which stretch across east of the Cove moun- 
tain, between Parnell's and Jordan's knobs on the north, and Two-top 
and Clay-lick mountains on the south. Where an anticlinal axis occurs, as 
in Path valley, the limestone is in the middle, and the slate on either side 
next the mountain. The slate region is more hilly and less fertile than the 
hmestone, but with good culture it also well repays the farmer for his la- 
bour. 

The mountain ranges in the north and west of the county, are composed 
of the gray and reddish sandstones which belong to the formation (IV) next 
in order above the dark slate last mentioned, and which is found in most of 
the valleys at their base. In Horse valley, however, there is a synclinal 
axis, where the mountain sandstone dipping from both sides towards the 
centre of the valley, is overlaid by the red shale (V) next above in position. 
So in the "Little Cove" in the south-western corner of the county, we 
have the same red shale, together with the overlying hmestone (VI) and 
the olive slate (VIII.) A furnace has been erected in this secluded Ut- 
tle valley which is supplied with ore from its immediate vicinity. 

Franklin county, though it contains no large streams, is well wa- 
tered for agricultural and manufacturing purposes. Its copious 
and unfailing mountain springs supply streams which descend 
and meander through the valley, affording abundant water power 
for the furnaces, forges, mills, and manufactories already in ope- 
ration, as well as a surplus for many others which may be here- 
after erected. 

The Conedoguinet creek rises by several branches in the north- 



FRANKLIN COUNTY. 249 

east, and passes thence into Cumberland, which it crosses, and 
empties into the Susquehanna a short distance above Harrisburg. 

The main branch of the Conecocheague flows from the South 
mountain, in the eastern part of the county, and pursues a north- 
westerly course to the neighbourhood of Chambersburg, where it 
turns to the south-west, and after receiving several smaller tribu- 
taries passes southward across the Maryland line and falls into the 
Potomac at Williamsport. The west branch of Conecocheague 
rises near the head of Path valley, down which it flows south- 
ward by Fannetsburg and Loudon, and turning south-eastward, 
meets the east branch about two miles north of the State line. 

In the south-east, several of the head branches of Jhitietam creek 
issue from between the ridges of the South mountain ; strong, clear 
and rapid streams, which yield a great amount of water power for 
useful purposes. The two main branches unite near the State 
line, and pass southward through Maryland to the Potomac. 

Chambersburg, the county town, situated at the junction of 
Falling Spring and Conecocheague creek, is one of the most plea- 
sant and flourishing inland towns in Pennsylvania. It is in the 
midst of a healthy, fertile and highly cultivated country, and the 
abundance of water power in its immediate vicinity renders it a 
favourable location for manufacturing estabhshments. It has 
flour mills, fulling mills, an oil mill, a very large paper mill, and 
an extensive establishment for the manufactory of edge tools. The 
dwelling houses are mostly of brick or stone, many of them well, 
and even elegantly constructed ; and a general air of neatness and 
comfort pervades the town. 

The public buildings are a brick court house, a prison, a bank, 
an academy, and eight churches. The Presbyterian church is 
much admired on account of its beautiful situation in a retired 
quiet spot, enveloped with trees and surrounded by a delightful 
green, at the west end of which is the burying ground of the con- 
gregation, and adjoining it, an ancient burying ground of the In- 
dians. Here quietly repose, near each other, the remains of the 
white and the red man, who, when living, often met in deadly 
strife ; and hands that raised the rifle or the knife in mortal com- 
bat have long since mouldered into kindred dust on the same little 
spot of ground. 

Chambersburg has the advantage of good turnpike roads to 
Philadelphia, Baltimore and Pittsburg, and of rail roads to Phila- 
delphia and Hagerstown. The population is now about 4,500, 
one-fourth of which is beyond the borough limits. 

Mercersburg is a flourishing town in the south-west, near the 
Cove mountain. It is mostly built of brick and stone, and has a 
population of 1,143. There are four churches in the town. The 
Theological Seminary of the German Reformed church is located 
here, the main building of which is a handsome brick edifice, four 
stories high, on an elevated situation, commanding a very fine 
view of the town, the mountains and the adjacent country, in 
which there is much of grandeur and beauty. Near the building 
are two neat brick dweUings for the accommodation of the princi- 



250 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

pal and professors. Connected with it, and under the care of the 
same society, is Marshall college, which was incorporated in 1836, 
and named in memory of John Marshall, the distinguished Ame- 
rican jurist. A brick building has been erected near the town, for 
the preparatory school of the college, and preparation has been 
made for the erection of the college edifice. The situation is dis- 
tinguished for health, as well as for the beauty and fertility of the 
surrounding country, and has the advantage of an inteUigent, 
pious and moral community. 

Gh-eencastle is near the middle of the valley, about five miles 
north of the State hne, and contains a population of 930. The 
rail road from Chambersburg to Hagerstown passes through it, 
and it is surrounded by a country of great fertility, well watered 
and highly improved. 

Waynesboro is a neat town in the south-east of the county, hav- 
ing a number of good brick houses and a population of about 800. 
It is in the midst of a country not surpassed in Pennsylvania for 
well cultivated and productive farms. 

This county also contains the villages of Loudon, Fannet, Con- 
cord, Strasburg, Roxbury, St. Thomas, Fayetteville and some 
others. 

In a region so highly favoured by nature as Franklin county, 
the productions of agriculture of course rank first in importance. 
They are those common to this part of the State, wheat, corn, rye, 
oats, pork, cattle, &c. Most of the wheat is manufactured into 
flour within the county, of which there is a large export to the 
Philadelphia and Baltimore markets. From the southern part, 
flour and wheat are taken to Georgetown and Baltimore. The 
county contains 80 flour mills, 100 saw mills and 13 fulling mills. 

The most common forest trees are oak and hickory ; but walnut, 
locust, chestnut, pine, maple, ash, poplar and other useful trees 
also abound. On the western border the cucumber tree (magnolia 
acuminata^ is occasionally seen ; and in the eastern, among the 
swamps of the South mountain, the sweet-scented magnolia (M. 
glauca) is sometimes found. A variety of calycanthus or sweet- 
scented shrub, probably C. Icevigatus, seems to be indigenous on 
the mountain side near the village of Strasburg. The forests yield 
an abundant supply of timber for building, fuel and domestic pur- 
poses, beside the large amount annually made into charcoal for 
the supply of the iron works. 

The iron manufactures of Franklin county are important. It 
has six furnaces, eight forges, one rolling mill, and a number of 
foundries. The ore for the supply of the furnaces is obtained in 
various parts of the county, but is most abundant along the western 
base of the South mountain, near which most of the furnaces are 
erected. 

The assessment of real and personal property made taxable for 
county purposes in 1842, was $11,564,751 ; county tax, $30,289; 
State tax, $14,018. 

The Cumberland Valley rail road extends from Harrisburg to 
Chambersburg, at which place it connects with the Franklin rail 



FRANKLIN COUNTY. 251 

road, extending from Chambersburg to Hagerstown in Maryland, 
and which will probably, at no very distant period, be connected 
with the Baltimore and Ohio rail road. 

The main turnpike road from Philadelphia to Pittsburg passes 
through this county by Shippensburg, Chambersburg, St. Thomas 
and Loudon, and then crosses the Cove mountain into Bedford. 
At Chambersburg it is intersected by the turnpike from Baltimore 
by way of Gettysburg in Adams county. The southern part of 
Franklin is crossed by another turnpike which branches from the 
Pittsburg turnpike at M'Connellstown, in Bedford county, and 
passes south-eastward by Mercersburg, Greencastle and Waynes- 
boro, to Emmettsburg in Maryland, and thence to Baltimore. 

The common roads, except in some of the rough and moun- 
tainous parts of the county, are kept in tolerably good condition. 

The state of education among the people of this county may be 
said to be improving. It contains 15 school districts, all of which 
have accepted the common school system, and 148 schools are 
kept open on an average nearly six months in the year. At Mer- 
cersburg is the Theological seminary of the German Reformed 
church, and Marshall college, both under the care of the same so- 
ciety. There are about 100 students now receiving instruction in 
the college and preparatory school. Three professors are con- 
nected with the college, and the advantages of education are libe- 
rally and extensively afforded. A female seminary has been es- 
tablished at Chambersburg. 

Franklin county contains about 40 places of public worship, 
belonging to various rehgious denominations, and regularly sup- 
plied with ministers. Bible societies. Tract societies, and Sunday 
school associations have been organized ; the cause of temperance 
has been laudably promoted, and its good effects are visible among 
all classes of the population. The people are generaUy moral, 
sober and industrious. 

This county was first settled in 1730, by Colonel Benjamin 
Chambers, who established himself where Chambersburg is now 
situated. Settlements in this part of the country were encouraged 
by the proprietary government before the purchase of the land 
from the Indians in 1736. This, it is believed, was done to main- 
tain the claims of the Penn family to the country, and to resist 
encroachments and settlements under grants from the proprietors 
of Maryland. 

The first settlers were chiefly Irish and Germans, and the county 
is now mostly occupied by their descendants. The German lan- 
guage is still spoken in many families, but is gradually giving 
way to the English. The first white inhabitants experienced the 
difficulties and privations common to all new settlements. After 
Eraddock's defeat in 1755, they were for eight or ten years ex- 
posed to the incursions of Indian war parties, who came down 
from the west and surprised the settlers, some of whom were mas- 
sacred, and a few carried into captivity. After committing these 
outrages, the Indians would make a hasty retreat to their towns 
West of the mountains. These incursions from so artful and secret 



252 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

an enemy induced the settlers to erect, in different parts of the 
county, (then a portion of Cumberland,) stockade forts into which 
the inhabitants fled for protection on the alarm of Indian invasion, 
until the men could assemble and organize for the pursuit of their 
savage foes. This was done at quick notice and at their own ex- 
pense, without a government command or the assistance of the 
king's officers and troops. The hardy settler of those days, fa- 
miliar with the woods and the use of his gun, accustomed to toil 
and exposure, was fully equal to any conflict with an Indian 
enemy. 

How is Franklin county bounded and what is its extent ? Describe the 
principal mountains. In what part of the county is the great hmestone 
formation ? Where is iron ore found ? What is said of the soil of the 
South mountain? Of the hmestone valley ? Where is the slate formatioix 
and what kind of soil has it ? What are the rock formations in the north 
and west of the county ? What are the principal streams and their direc- 
tion? How is Chambersburg situated, and what manufactures are carried 
on there ? What is said of the public buildings, and the general appear- 
ance of the town ? What are its advantages of communication? Where 
is Mercersburg ? Give an account of its hterary institutions- Greencas- 
tle ? Waynesboro ? What other places are mentioned ? What are the 
products of the soil, and where sent for sale ? What is said of the treea 
and forests ?-7of the iron works and how supplied with ore ? What rail 
roads in the county ? Turnpike roads ? What is the state of education, 
schools, colleges, &c. ? Places of worship, societies, and character of the 
people for temperance and morals ? When was the first settlement made 
at Chambersburg, and by whom ? Of what nations were most of the set- 
tlers? Give an account of some of their difhculties with the Indians. 
What measures were taken for their defence ? 

26. Greene County. 

Greene is the extreme south-western county of Pennsylvania, 
having the state of Virginia on the south and west, Washington 
county on the north, and Fayette on the east. Its population in 
1840 was 19,147. 

The face of the country is hilly and uneven, though no where 
mountainous, and the soil, though rocky, rough and broken in 
some places, is generally productive. The valleys and river bot- 
toms are fertile, yielding luxuriant crops when well cultivated. 

The Monmigahela river flows along the eastern side of the 
countv, separating it from Fayette; the other principal streams 
are Dunkard's, JVhitely and Ten-mile creeks, all flowing eastward 
into the Monongahela. In the west are some branches of Wheel- 
ing creek, which runs north-westward to the Ohio river. 

Waynesburg is the seat of justice, situated nearly in the centre 
of the county, in a fertile valley on the bank of Ten-mile creek, 
eleven miles from the Monongahela river. The public buildings 
consist of a neat court-house and county offices built of brick, a 
stone prison, an academy, and four houses of pubhc worship, of 
which two belong to Methodists, one Presbyterian, and one Ro- 
man Catholic. 

The other towns and villages worthy of note are ClarksvUle, at 



GREENE COUNTY. 253 

the forks of Ten-mile creek, two miles from the river and eleven 
north-east from Waynesburg ; Jefferson, on the same creek, three 
miles from the river ; Carmicliaelstown, in a rich and beautiful 
valley on Muddy creek, 12 miles eastward from the county seat; 
Greensburg, on the Monongahela, 20 miles south-east from Waynes- 
burg; JVewtown, on Whitely creek, in the southern part of the 
county; and Mount Mo'tris, on Dunkard's creek, near the Virginia 
line. Beside liiese there are a number of smaller villages. 

This county, lying within the great bituminous coal formation of the 
State, has the same geological features as are common to that region. The 
hill sides and high banks of the streams present to view alternating and 
nearly horizontal strata of sandstone, shale and limestone, with beds.of bi- 
tuminous coal from one to six feet or more in thickness, yielding a bound- 
less and inexhaustible supply of that valuable material. 

Wheat is the principal agricultural production, most of which is 
ground into flour before sending it to market; other kinds of grain 
are cultivated for feeding stock, of which a large amount, particu- 
larly of hogs and cattle, is raised and driven to the eastward for 
sale. More than 100,000 pounds of maple sugar are annually 
made in the county. Some woollen factories and glass works are 
the principal manufacturing establishments, besides a great num- 
ber of grist and saw mills, and several oil mills. 

Timber is so abundant here as to be of little value, and large 
unbroken forests of oak, poplar, walnut, hickory, ash, locust and 
sugar maple extend over a considerable portion of the county. 

The assessed valuation of taxable property, for 1842, was 
$2,222,304 ; county tax $9,566 ; State tax, $2,564. 

No turnpike roads have yet been constructed, but several State 
roads lead in different directions from the county seat. The com- 
mon roads are kept in tolerable condition, and bridges are built 
over the principal streams where crossed by the main roads. 

Education is too much neglected in this county, though some 
hope of improvement in this respect may be reasonably entertained. 
There are 16 school districts in all, of which 11 have accepted the 
common school law, but only 7 of them made reports to the su- 
perintendent in 1842. According to these reports there were 68 
schools in operation ; but the average time of their being kept open 
was only about three months in the year. 

Of the religious societies the Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians 
and Roman Catholics are most numerous. 

The early settlers were mostly from eastern Pennsylvania and 
Virginia, with some from Maryland and New Jersey, and a few 
Irish and German emigrants. 

In what part of the State is Greene county and how bounded? Describe 
the face of the country and character of the soil. Name the principal 
streams. How is the county town situated and what are the public build- 
ings ? What other towns are mentioned, and how are they situated ? 
What is said of the rock strata and mineral productions ? Mention the 
different kinds of farm produce. Of manufactures. What is said of the 
timber ? — of roads and bridges ? State the condition of education and of 
common schools. What are the prevaihng religious denominations ? 
Whence came the early settlers of the county ? 

22 



254 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

27. Huntingdon County. 

♦ 

Huntingdon is bounded north by Centre, east by Mifflin and 
Juniata, south-east by Franklin, south-west by Bedford, and west 
by Cambria. Population 35,484. 

This is one of the most mountainous regions in the State, being 
composed of long and nearly parallel ranges of high and rugged 
mountain ridges, separated by deep and mostly narrow valleys. 
Furthest east is the Tuscarora mountain, dividing Huntingdon 
from Franklin ; then the Shade and Black-log, extending south- 
ward from Juniata ; and next Jack's mountain, a branch of which 
called Stone mountain folds round on the west of Kishicoquillas 
valley. In the south are Sidehng Hill and Terrace mountain, 
enclosing Trough creek valley, from which rises the huge, irre- 
gular, unshapely form of Broad Top, like a great giant watching 
over the two counties, standing with one foot in Huntingdon and 
the other in Bedford, his monstrous head blackened by the smut 
of countless coal beds — and there he has stood for ever, with all 
this treasure in his own keeping. West of the town of Hunting- 
don is Warrior ridge, and next Tussey's mountain, beyond which 
is an irregular range, folding and turning sharply in several direc- 
tions, being known in different parts by the names of Lock, Canoe 
and Brush mountains. Passing westward from this, we come to 
the towering front of Allegheny, supported along its base by a 
range of low irregular hills, which stand out like buttresses from 
the main mountain, as if to prop and sustain the mighty mass. 
Besides these principal mountains, there are many lesser hills and 
ridges which have their local names. 

The geological features of Huntingdon county are of the most varied and 
interesting character. It contains all the older secondary rock formations, 
from the lower limestone up to the carboniferous series, in regular succes- 
sion ; but so intricately involved by multiplied lines of elevation and de- 
pression, and such numerous foldings and windings, that a minute and de- 
tailed description would far exceed the limits to which we are restricted. 
We shall therefore merely indicate the local position of the principal for- 
mations, with such notice of their ores and other valuable contents as may 
serve in some measure to illustrate the mineral resources of the county. 

The blue limestone (II,) lowest in the series, occurs in Kishicoquillas 
valley, Morrison's cove, and Sinking valley, having associated with it the 
cellular and stalactitic brown iron ore usually found in hmestone districts. 
It commonly occurs in irregular nests and layers in the ferruginous earth 
overlying the limestone, and appears to be subject to no regular or fixed 
law of deposition. It is extensively mined for the supply of furnaces in its 
neighbourhood. 

Around the borders of the valleys where this hmestone occurs, and near 
the base of the mountain ridges inclosing them, is a belt of dark slate (III,) 
which is next in order above the limestone. 

The hard gray and reddish sandstones (IV) of the next formation are 
seen in Tuscarora, Shade, Black-log, Jack's, Tussey's, Lock, Canoe and 
Brush mountains: iron ore is found connected with this sandstone at some 
places on Black-log and Jack's mountain. 

Next we have a series of olive, yellowish and red shales (V,) containinff 
some thin bands of sandstone and limestone, with abundance of shells and 
other fossil remains in some of the strata. In this formation is included 
the valuable fossiliferous iron ore, from which many of our furnaces are 



HUNTINGDON COUNTY. 255 

now supplied. The position of the ore bands is usually indicated by a dirty 
white and yellowish sandstone, breaking into rhomboidal fragments, con- 
taining fossil impressions, and is below the thin hmestone strata beneath 
the red shale. The rocks of this formation are seen along the west side 
of Tuscarora mountain, and on the east of Shade, folding round on the 
south, passing west of Black-log mountain and spreading out in the valley 
between this and Blue ridge. It next appears on the east side of Jack's 
mountain, passing round its southern end and ranging along the west side 
of the same ridge to the Juniata, whence it passes northward on the west 
of Stone mountain, and then turns in a broad belt southrwestward along 
the south-east side of Tussey's mountain, between that and Warrior ridge. 
We next meet it on the west of Canoe mountain, passing around Scotch 
valley, and spreading out southward to Hollidaysburg ; whence it ranges 
again to the north along the west side of the Bald Eagle or Muncy moun- 
tain, east of Bald Eagle creek. The fossiliferous iron ore generally accom- 
panies this formation, though the strata are frequently too thin to be pro- 
ductive. It is mined for the supply of Matilda furnace, east of Jack's 
mountain, near the Juniata; also east of Tussey's mountain near the little 
Juniata, and in several other places. 

Accompanying the last mentioned formation, and overlying the red shale, 
is a belt of hmestone (VI,) frequently containing fossil impressions, in con- 
tact with which is the next succeeding member of the series, a coarse fos- 
siliferous sandstone (VII,) generally forming a range of sharp irregular 
hills, and sometimes rising into a ridge of considerable magnitude. These 
adjunct formations may be seen on both sides of the Tuscarora valley ; 
between Black-log mountain and Aughwick creek in the neighbourhood 
of Shirleysburg ; in Chestnut ridge east of Jack's mountain, and then fold- 
ing round its southern end and passing on the west of it in a northern di- 
rection across the Juniata, extending in Rocky ridge on the west of Stone 
mountain to the head of Stone valley. From this south-westward, we find 
the fossiliferous sandstone in Warrior ridge, with the hmestone along its 
north-west side. These formations again occur on the west of Lock and 
Canoe mountains, sweeping around Scotch valley and appearing on the 
Juniata near Frankstown. Hence they curve round south of Hollidays- 
burg, passing in a north-east direction on the west of Brush and Bald 
Eagle or Muncy mountain. Iron ore is occasionally found in the lower 
portion of the fossiliferous sandstone, near its contact with the limestone. 
It is mined near the Juniata, south-east of Newton Hamilton ; in Chestnut 
ridge near Chester furnace ; west of Brush mountain in the neighbourhood 
of Allegheny furnace, and other places. 

Overlying the sandstone last mentioned is a series of dark coloured and 
olive slates (VIII,) with bands of gray and greenish sandstone, containing, 
among its lower beds, calcareous strata which in some places yield a good 
hydrauhc cement. This formation may be seen on both sides of the Tus- 
carora valley in the eastern part of the county, and in the valley of Augh- 
wick creek, where it occupies a considerable breadth ; — thence, folding 
southward round Jack's mountain, it passes down Hare's valley to the 
Juniata, and crosses northward to the head of Stone valley. From this it 
ranges along the south-east side of Warrior ridge by the town of Hunting- 
don, and across the Juniata to the Bedford county hne. The same forma- 
tion occupies the middle part of the basin east of Frankstown and south of 
Scotch valley. We next find it ranging in a broad belt from a httle west 
of Hollidaysburg nearly to the base of the Allegheny mountain, extending 
north-eastward into Centre county, and southward into Bedford. A valu- 
able iron ore is sometimes found in the lower layers of this formation ; 
being mined for the supply of Chester furnace, and at several other places 
in the neighbourhood of the great Aughwick valley. 

The red shales and sandstones of the next overlying formation (TX,) 
occupy the middle of that part of Tuscarora valley which is in Huntingdon 
county, and are seen along the eastern base of Sidehng hill, crossing to 



256 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



the north of the Juniata below the town of Huntingdon, and thence pass- 
ing up tlie Raystown branch, west of Terrace mountain. The same 
rocks also appear along the base of the Allegheny mountain and for some 
distance up the ascent. A hard coarse sandstone (X,) succeeds, which is 
seen on SideUng hill, in Terrace mountain, and towards the summit of 
Allegheny. 

Overlying the last is a series of red and greenish soft argillaceous shales 
(XL) with some layers of sandstone, and containing, in its lower portion, a 
bed of gray and reddish silicious hmestone, seldom of sufficient purity to 
be burned into lime. The rocks of this formation occur in Trough creek 
valley, and encircle Broad Top mountain. They are also seen well ex- 
posed in the Allegheny mountain, on the ascent of Plane No. 7 of the 
Portage rail road. Iron ore is someiimes found near the contact of this 
formation with the underlying sandstone : it is mined near Hopewell and 
Trough creek furnaces. 

The conglomerate and sandstone (XII) immediately below the coal, as 
well as some of the lower coal beds themselves, are found on Broad Top 
mountain ; but the limits of Huntingdon county do not extend far enough 
westward to include any considerable portion of the coal measures on the 
Allegheny. 

Huntingdon county is watered by numerous streams, the prin- 
cipal of which is the Juniata, pursuing a winding course among 
the mountains and passing across nearly the whole extent of the 
county from west to east. The Raystown branch flows north-east- 




Valley of the Juniata. 

ward from Bedford county, and falls into the main stream below the 
town of Huntingdon, The Little Juniata rises at the foot of the 
Allegheny mountain and runs south-eastward, meeting the river 
below Alexandria. Aughwick creek rises in Bedford county, and 
pursues a northern direction to the Juniata near Newton Hamil- 



HUNTINGDON COUNTY. 257 

ton. Smaller streams are numerous, of sufficient water power 
for extensive manufacturing operations. On Spruce creek alone, 
the length of which is but about ten miles, are two furnaces, seven 
forges, six grist mills, seven saw mills and two woollen factories. 

Huntingdon, the seat of justice, is a flourishing town situated on 
the Juniata, containing a population of 1145. The court-house is 
a large and commodious brick building recently erected ; there is 
also a prison with other county buildings, and churches belonging 
to Presbyterians, Methodists, Catholics and Episcopalians. The 
Juniata division of the Pennsylvania canal, and also the northern 
turnpike road from Harrisburg to Pittsburg, pass through the 
town. It is a place of considerable business in country produce 
and merchandise. 

Hollidaysburg, at the head of canal navigation on the Juniata, 
and at the eastern termination of the Portage rail road, is the 
largest town in the county: the borough containing about 2000 
inhabitants, and including Gaysport, separated only by a branch 
of the Juniata, the population amounts to nearly 3000. Since the 
completion of the state improvements, the progress of this town 
has been exceedingly rapid, and its business operations are now 
considered to be more extensive than those of any place between 
Harrisburg and Pittsburg. • Large quantities of iron and other 
produce of the surrounding country are shipped here, as well as 
the bituminous coal of the Allegheny mountain destined for an 
eastern market. There are five churches, several large hotels, 
two iron foundries, a steam grist mill, two machine shops, 14 
large warehouses, about 1200 rail road cars, and a great number 
of canal boats. 

Williamsburg and Alexandria are considerable towns, on the 
canal, between Hollidaysburg and Huntingdon. Frankstown is 
on the turnpike, three miles east of Hollidaysburg ; and Petersburg 
at the mouth of Shaver's creek below Alexandria. Birmingham 
is on the Little Juniata in the north-western part of the county, 
and Shirleysburg in the east, near Aughwick creek. Besides these 
there are many other villages of less note. 

The soil of the valleys is generally fertile, and much of it in a 
high state of cultivation, producing abundant crops of grain, grass 
and other agricultural products. The mountains are covered with 
timber, and yield a plentiful supply for domestic purposes, as well 
as charcoal for consumption in the numerous iron works of this 
region. 

There are in this county 22 furnaces, producing annually about 
16,000 tons of pig iron; 32 forges, manufacturing 15,000 tons of 
bar iron and blooms ; two roUing mills and a nail factory ; besides 
several cupola furnaces for castings. Also seventy grain mills, 
182 saw-mills, 9 woollen factories, and a great number of other 
manufacturing establishments of various kinds. The annual pro- 
ductions of the countv, of every kind, are estimated to amount to 
upwards of $4,000,000. 

For its healthy chmate -, its mineral resources ; the grandeur and 
sublimity of its scenery; the fertility and diversity of its soil; its 



258 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

adaptation to the rearing of stock and the production of nearly all 
the crops which reward the labours of the husbandman, this inte- 
rior county will compare favourably with most others in the state. 

The Pennsylvania canal passes mostly along the banks of the 
Juniata, from the eastern limit of the county to Hollidaysburg, 
from which place the Portage rail-road extends to the western ex- 
tremity. The northern turnpike from Harrisburg to Pittsburg also 
passes up the valley of the Juniata, and through most of the prin- 
cipal towns. Substantial bridges are erected over the Juniata at 
Huntingdon, Alexandria and Hollidaysburg; as well as over the 
other large streams where crossed by the main roads. 

By the assessment of 1842, the property taxed for county pur- 
poses was valued at ^8,575,139: county tax ^17,149: State tax 
^10,417. 

The progress of popular education does not seem to be so rapid 
as the improvements in the agricultural and manufacturing indus- 
try of the county. The common school system is, however, gene- 
rally adopted, and of the 27 districts, 24 have reported to the su- 
perintendent that they have a total of 172 schools established under 
the law, the average period of instruction being a little over four 
months in the year. There is an academy at Huntingdon ; but the 
higher branches of learning meet with but little encouragement. 

The religious denominations are various : Methodists, Presbyte- 
rians, Baptists, Lutherans and Catholics are most numerous ; — in 
some of the valleys there are settlements of Dunkards and Mennon- 
ists, and in the towns a few Episcopalians. The moral condition 
of the population, particularly with regard to habits of sobriety 
and temperance, has greatly improved within the last few years. 

The early pioneers of this region were mostly adventurers from 
the old counties of Cumberland, Lancaster, York and Berks, who 
pushed their explorations into this then wilderness in quest of 
game. After the Indians had retired to the west, many of these 
hunters, attracted by the fertile and beautiful appearance of the 
valleys, made permanent settlements in them, which became the 
homes of their children and are still occupied by their descendants. 
The population is chiefly of Scotch, Irish, and German origin, the 
latter being generally farmers, and many of them stiU speaking 
their own language. 

How is Huntingdon bounded ? What is the character of the face of the 
country ? What mountains are in the east ? — in the south ? — in the west ? 
Describe the geological features of the county. In what valleys are the 
limestone (II) and slate (III) formations ? W^hat ore accompanies this lime- 
stone ? In what other formations is iron ore found and where does it oc- 
cur ? In what series of rocks is hydraulic cement, and another variety of iron 
ore ? To what formation does the iron ore of Hopewell and Trough creek 
belong ? Where is coal found in this county ? Describe the course of the 
Juniata river and its branches — ofAughwick creek. What manufactur- 
ing works are on Spruce creek ? What is said of Huntingdon, the county 
town ? Where is Hollidaysburg, and what is said of its population, trade 
and business? What buildings, manufacturing establishments, &c., are 
mentioned? Where are Williamsburg, Alexandria, Frankstown and Pe- 
tersburg ? Shirleysburg ? What is said of the soil of the valleys and its 
productions ? — of the mountains ? Mention the different kinds of iron 



INDIANA COUNTY. 259 

^vorks and the amount of their products. Mills and factories. What is 
the estimated value of the productions of this county ? What is said of its 
advantages generally ? What canal, rail road and turnpike are in Hunt- 
ingdon county ? Bridges ? What is said of the state of education, schoola 
&c. ? Mention the principal religious societies, and the improvement in the 
moral habits of the population. From what counties was Huntingdon chiefly 
settled, and from what foreign nations are the inhabitants mostly descended ? 

28. Indiana County. 

Indiana county has Jefferson. on the north, Clearfield and Cam- 
bria on the east, Westmoreland on the south, and Armstrong on 
the west. By the census of 1840, its population was 20,782. 

The face of the country is generally uneven and hilly. In the 
south-east are the northern terminations of the two mountain 
ranges called Laurel hill and Chestnut ridge, which here appear 
of diminished elevation, and break away into a series of irregular 
ridges and hills. 

In each of these two mountain ranges, the rocks next below the coal se- 
ries have been upheaved to the surface on an axis of elevation, and appear 
on their summits and along their sides ; the coal bearing strata resting upon 
them near the base, or sometimes extending some distance up their acclivi- 
ties. These lower strata of the coal measures crop out abundantly along 
the ravines near the base of the two mountain ridges, descending on each 
side towards the middle of the basin between these anticlinal elevations, 
where they are deeply covered by superincumbent strata. At Lockport, on 
the Conemaugh, however, the river cuts so deeply across the basin as to 
expose all the lower strata down to the sandstone which forms the floor of 
the coal measures. Ascendin" from the water level, towards the summit 
of the hill on the north side of the river, five successive beds of coal are 
exposed, separated by intervening strata of sandstone, shale, hmestone and 
iron ore. In the deep ravine of Black-lick creek, nearly similar exposures 
may be observed. 

West of Chestnut ridge, the lower coal beds are again seen along the 
Conemaugh, and in the deep ravines of Two-hck and Yellow creeks, pass- 
ing deeply beneath the high grounds around the town of Indiana. Further 
westward, on Crooked creek, and also northward on the Ma'honing, coal 
beds appear which have a higher position in the series. 

Along the Conemaugh, in the southern part of the county, salt 
water is obtained by boring to a depth of from 500 to 800 feet, from 
which salt is extensively manufactured. The quantity of that ar- 
ticle annually made in this county is upwards of 70,000 bushels. 

The soil, where not too rough for cultivation, is tolerably fertile, 
producing fair crops of wheat, oats, grass, &c. Horses, cattle and 
sheep are raised in considerable numbers by the farmers, and sold 
to the drovers, who drive them to the eastern markets. 

The Conemaugh river forms the southern boundary of this 
county, separating it from Westmoreland. Black-lick creek flows 
westward through the south-eastern part, and falls into the Cone- 
maugh at Blairsville. Two-lick and Yellow creeks unite their wa- 
ters and run southward to the Black-lick. Crooked creek rises by 
several branches in the western part of the county, and passes 
westward through Armstrong to the Allegheny river. In the 
north is Mahoning creek, also a tributary of the Allegheny. 



260 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Indiana is the county town, handsomely situated on high ground, 
nearly in the middle of the county, on the main road from Ebens- 
burg to Kittaning, It contains the usual county buildings, an 
academy and several churches. Population 700. 

Blairsville, on the Conemaugh, is a flourishing town, favourably 
situated for business, being on the main line of the State improve- 
ments, and a depot whence produce may be shipped either east- 
ward or westward, and merchandise received for the surrounding 
country. There are several branches of manufactures successfully 
carried on in this place, which has rapidly improved within the 
last few years: its present population is about 1000. 

Saltzhnrg is a borough containing about 350 inhabitants, situ- 
ated in the neighbourhood of the salt works, on the Conemaugh 
below Blairsville. 

Jlrmagh is also a borough, with a population of nearly 200, on 
the turnpike from Ebensburg to Blairsville and Pittsburg, in the 
south-east of the county. 

The northern and eastern parts of Indiana county are thinly set- 
tled, being yet covered by extensive forests, containing much valu- 
able white pine and other timber, but little of which has yet been 
rendered available, owing to its remote situation from any stream 
of sufficient capacity for rafting. Some, however, is sent down 
the West branch of Susquehanna, which heads near the eastern 
limits of this county, and some down the Mahoning, when those 
streams are sufficiently swelled by freshets to float small rafts. 

At an angle in the eastern line of Indiana, where it is joined by 
the line separating Cambria from Clearfield, is a celebrated station 
called the Cherry tree, or Canoe place, as the farthest point to 
which a Canoe could be pushed up the Susquehanna. From this 
point to Kittaning was anciently a famous Indian path, which is 
yet perceptible in several places on the route. This Avas also the 
boundary of one of the purchases of land from the Indians. 

The Western division of the Pennsylvania canal extends along 
the Conemaugh, throughout the whole extent of the southern 
boundary of this county, greatly increasing the facilities of trade 
and transportation for the inhabitants. The northern turnpike from 
Harrisburg to Pittsburg, by way of Huntingdon, Ebensburg, 
Blairsville, &c., passes through the south-eastern part ; and the 
turnpike from Ebensburg to Kittaning crosses the county in a 
north-w^estern direction, passing through the town of Indiana. 

According to the assessment of 1842, the value of property sub- 
ject to taxation for county purposes was $1,932,938 : county tax 
$5,008 : State tax $2,454. 

The common school system, as regulated by law, has been 
adopted in all of the 14 districts, and 131 schools are reported as 
being taught about 4 months in the year. The academy at Indiana 
is reported to contain about 30 pupils ; but does not appear to be 
sufficiently encouraged to render its eff'ect as useful as it might be 
if properly sustained. 

The first settlements in this county were chiefly made by emi- 
grants from Ireland, who suff'ered great privations and hardships. 



JEFFERSON COUNTY. 261 

in this then remote wilderness. The want of the necessary pro- 
visions of life was often severely felt, and to this was added the 
danger of attacks from hostile Indians, by whom they were some- 
times driven from their homes and obliged to seek a place of secu- 
rity on the eastern side of the mountains. Two of the early patri- 
archs of this region, Fergus Morehead and James Kelly, com- 
menced improvements about the year 1772, by erecting each a log 
cabin near the place where the town of Indiana now stands. 
They were much annoyed by the abundance of rattlesnakes, and 
by wolves and other wild beasts prowling around their cabins at 
night. One morning Mr. Morehead paid his neighbour a visit, but 
Kelly was not to be found. Observing traces of blood and tufts of 
human hair near the cabin, Morehead supposed his neighbour to 
have been killed by the wolves, and was cautiously searching for 
his remains, when he discovered Kelly sitting by a spring and 
washing the blood from his head. He had fallen asleep at night 
with his head near the side of his cabin, and a wolf had reached 
through an open space between the logs, and seized him by the 
head. The aperture was, however, so small as to prevent the 
wolf from grasping him so far as to have a secure hold, and this 
saved his life. After remaining here some time, the two adven- 
turers returned to Franklin county for their families, and on their 
return to Indiana were accompanied by other settlers ; but during 
the first years, grain and most of the necessaries of life were trans- 
ported on horse-back from Franklin and Cumberland counties, 
there being no wagon road across the mountains. Such were 
some of the dangers and difficulties encountered by the bold and 
hardy settlers of our western counties, whose descendants now 
dwell in peace and security on the same soil, surrounded by plenty, 
and enjoying not only the comforts but even the luxuries of life. 

What counties are adjacent to Indiana ? What is the face of the country, 
and the names of the principal mountain ridges ? What valuable mineral 
productions are found ? • Where is salt manufactured, and to what amount ? 
What is said of the soil, and of the products of the farms ? Mention the 
principal streams, their situation and direction. Name the county town, 
and describe its situation. Where is Blairsville, and what is said of it ? 
Saltzburg ? Armagh ? Describe the northern and eastern part of the county. 
What is said of a place called Cherry tree ? What canal and turnpike 
roads are in this county ? What is the condition of education ? By whom 
were the first settlements made, and what privations and difficulties did 
they encounter ? Name two of the early settlers, and tell the story of 
Kelly and the wolf By what means did the first inhabitants procure grain 
and other necessaries of life ? 



29. Jefferson County. 

Jefferson county is bounded north by Warren, east by Elk and 
Clearfield, south by Indiana, and west by Armstrong, Clarion, 
and Venango. Population, 7,253. 

The surface is generally hilly and uneven, but not mountainous. 
In the valleys of many of the" streams, there are tracts of bottom 



262 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

land which is very fertile ; much of the upland soil is also tolera- 
bly good, but in some places is too rough and rocky for cultivation. 

Bituminous coal is found in almost every part of the county ; iron ore 
also appears in many places, but little has yet been done towards the deve- 
lopement of the mineral wealth of tliis region. 

Much of the northern part of this county is still a wilderness, 
and even in the south the settlements are thinly scattered amon^ 
immense forests of timber. The staple production is lumber, ol 
which vast quantities are annually floated down the Clarion, Red- 
bank and Mahoning to the Allegheny river, whence it finds its 
way to a market at Pittsburg. Within the last few years, how- 
ever, the cultivation of the soil has received more attention : settle- 
ments and farming establishments are multiplying, an^ the agri- 
cultural products of the county rapidly increasing. 

The principal streams in this region flow in a south-western di- 
rection towards the Allegheny river. The north is watered by the 
Clarion river, which flows across the whole breadth of the county. 
Towards the south it is also crossed by the Red-bank or Sandy 
creek, a large and rapid stream, of sufficient capacity for rafting at 
high water, and at all times affording poAver to drive the nume- 
rous saw mills erected on its banks. Near the southern line of the 
county is Mahoning creek, also a considerable stream. 

But few towns or villages are found in this wild and woody re- 
gion. Brookville, the seat of justice for the county, is situated 
near Sandy creek, on the Bellefonte and Erie turnpike, and con- 
tains about 300 inhabitants. It has a court house, prison, acade- 
my, and several stores and taverns. About a mile east of this is 
Port Barnett, one of the oldest settlements in the county. Pimxor- 
tawny is a rather pretty village, on Mahoning creek, in the south 
of the county. 

The value of property assessed in 1842 for county taxation was 
$867,180: county tax $5,922: State tax $1,079. 

In a new and thinly settled country, the opportunities for popu- 
lar education must necessarily be much restricted. The distance 
"w^hich children must travel to reach a school, and the difficulty of 
collecting a sufficient number to warrant the employment of a 
teacher, have an unfavourable effect on the progress of general 
education and intelligence among the youth of our forest counties. 
Jefferson contains 14 districts, all of which have accepted the pro- 
visions of the law regulating the common school system, and 49 
schools are reported as being established. The average period of 
instruction is about 3^ months in the year. 

The inhabitants are mostly settlers from other parts of Pennsyl- 
vania, with a few Germans and other emigrants from Europe. 

How is Jefferson bounded ? Describe the face of the country and soil ? 
What valuable minerals are found ? What is said of the forests, the staple 
productions, and of agricultural improvement ? Mention the principal 
streams. What is the name and situation of the county town? What other 
places are mentioned ? What is said of the opportunities for education, and 
of the schools ? By whom is the county chiefly settled ? 



JUNIATA COUNTY. 263 

30. Juniata County. 

Juniata county has Union on the north ; the river Susquehanna 
for a short distance on the east ; Perry county on the south-east ; 
Huntingdon on the south-west; and Milflin on the north-west. 
Population 11,080. 

The Tuscarora mountain forms most of the south-eastern 
boundary, dividing Juniata from Perry; and on the north-west 
tlie Shade and Black-log mountains separate it from Mifflin. 

For variety and beauty of scenery, few parts of the State can be 
compared with the banks of the Juniata. The river frequently 
winds among deep and narrow gorges in the mountains, whose 
rocky precipices rise abruptly from the shore, with their pine-clad 
summits towering high above the placid stream, forming singu- 
larly picturesque vieAvs of wild and savage grandeur : and then, 
leaving this scene of romantic wildness, it passes through a rich 
and cultivated valley, whose luxuriant fields, green meadows and 
well-built farm houses give evidence of an industrious and thrifty 
population. Busy towns and thriving villages occasionally give 
life and animation to the scene; but in a few minutes the traveller 
again finds himself in some rude mountain pass, where all traces 
of cultivation disappear, and he sees around him nothing but the 
primitive solitude and desolation of nature, and hears no sound 
but the roar of the mountain torrent leaping from rock to rock, or 
madly dashing over some lofty precipice in sheets of white and 
feathery foam. 



Rocks on the Juniata. 
A series of nearly parallel belts of various rock formations range across 
this county from north-east to south-west, following the direction of the 



264 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



mountain ridges, and being brought successively to the surface by undula- 
tions or lines of elevation and depression. The variegated and red shale (V,) 
overlying the mountain sandstone, appears along the north-v^^est side of 
Tuscarora mountain, and again on the Juniata above Mexico, having be- 
tween these points a belt of the overlying fossiliferous limestone (VI) and 
sandstone (VII,) as seen between Thompsontownand Mexico, on the turn- 
pike. A similar belt of this hmestone, with the sandstone accompanying, 
appears at Mifflin town, above which place we find the red and variegated 
shale formation extending to the foot of Shade mountain. In the valley of 
Tuscarora creek, a few miles south-west of the Juniata, the fossiliferous 
sandstone divides into two branches, having between them the overlying 
ohve slate (VIII,) which still further up the valley is itself overlaid by the 
red shales and sandstones (IX) next in the series. 

Much of the soil is productive, and agriculture is the chief occu- 
pation of the inhabitants. Wheat and flour are the staple produc- 
tions. There are about 30 flour and grist mills, 3 woollen factories, 
and some extensive tanneries. 




Mifflintown on the Juniata. 



The Juniata river passes through the middle part of this county, 
which is also well watered by numerous smaller streams. Tusca- 
rora creek runs north-eastward and falls into the Juniata below 
Mifflintown. being joined by Licking creek. Lost creek empties 
on the north side of the river above Mifflintown, and Cocalamus 
is in the north-east, flowing into Perry county. 

Mifflintown is the seat of justice, situated on the north side of 
the Juniata, and having a population of about 450. It has the 
usual county buildings; two churches, one Presbyterian and the 
other Lutheran; and about 100 dwellings. Mexico and Jliompson- 
town are on the same side of the Juniata, below Mifflintown. Wa- 
terford is in Tuscarora valley, in the southern part of the county. 



LANCASTER COUNTY. 265 

The Juniata division of tlie Pennsylvania canal, and the north- 
ern turnpike from Harrisburg to Pittsburg, both extend through 
this county along the Juniata river, passing through the principal 
towns, and affording easy means of transportation for the surplus 
produce of the county, as well as for the reception of merchandise 
from the commercial cities. 

According to the assessment of 1842, the value of property sub- 
ject to county taxation was $2,779,121 : county tax $2,779: State 
tax $3,022. 

The school districts are 9 in number, all of which have accepted 
the law. The number of schools established is 62, which are 
open for the instruction of scholars nearly 5 months in the year. 
Tuscarora academy has about 40 pupils. 

The inhabitants are mostly of Irish and German origin. Of the 
religious persuasions the Presbyterians are believed to be the most 
numerous. 

How is Juniata county bounded ? What are the principal mountains ? 
Mention the various rock formations. What is said of the soil and produc- 
tions ? Describe the principal streams. What is the county town and how 
situated ? Name the other towns and their situation. What canal and turn- 
pike pass through the county ? What is said of the schools ? Of the origin 
of the inhabitants, and the religious persuasions ? 



31. Lancaster County. 

Lancaster county is bounded on the north by Dauphin and Le- 
banon ; on the north-east by Berks ; on the east by Chester ; on the 
south by Cecil county in the state of Maryland ; and on the south- 
west by the Susquehanna river, which divides it from York 
county. It is about 38 miles in length and 30 in breadth ; con- 
taining an area of upwards of 1100 square miles. Its population 
by the last census was 84,203, of whom 3,103 were coloured 
persons. 

A large portion of Lancaster consists of a broad and fertile val- 
ley, having on the north a range of hills extending from the Cone- 
wago hills, eastward to the Welsh mountain ; and on the south, 
those which range from Mine ridge westward to the Susquehanna. 
The valley thus formed is diversified and undulating on its sur- 
face; but only sufficiently so to render it the more desirable for 
agricultural purposes. It is chiefly occupied by a broad belt of 
limestone, and the soil is rich, loamy, and exceedingly fertile. It 
is one of the finest agricultural regions in the State, and has been 
justly called "the garden of Pennsylvania.'' 

This county contains several geological formations. The principal rock 
in the southern part of the county is talc slate, containing a few occasional 
beds of mica slate, with some serpentine, and much injected white quartz. 
The soil of this region is naturally thin and unproductive ; but, notwith- 
standing this defect of quality, much of it has been greatly improved by the 
liberal use of lime as a manure, which is brought with considerable labour 
and expense from the limestone valley on the north. 

23 



266 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The limestone (II) of the valley is overlapped on the north by a belt of 
the middle secondary red shale and sandstone, the southern margin of 
which passes near Churchtown, Ephrata, Lidz and Manheim, reachmg 
the Susquehanna at the village of Bainbridge. In the lower portion of this 
formation, near the last mentioned place, is a bed of the "calcareous con- 
glomerate," a rock containing imbedded pebbles of variously coloured 
Smestone, which yields a variegated marble susceptible of a high polish, 
and which might be applied to various ornamental purposes. A similar 
rock is also frequently found on the upper, or northern side of this red shale 
formation. 

The high bold ridge which is seen in such picturesque beauty on the 
Susquehanna above Columbia, is of white sandstone (I,) belonging to the 
next geological formation below the limestone. This ridge extends east- 
ward for several miles, gradually diminishing in height, until it finally sinks 
below the Hmestone of the valley. The same sandstone appears in the 
Welsh mountain in the eastern part of the county, and also in some smaller 
ridges in other places, where it has been protruded through the hmestone. 

Extensive ranges of trap rock are found in the Conewago hills, and along 
the northern border of the county ; some ridges and dikes of the same 
formation also occur in other places. 

On Chestnut hill, about four miles from Columbia, is a very extensive 
and rich deposit of iron ore, from which immense quantities are taken for 
the supply of furnaces in this and the neighbouring counties. It is of the 
variety termed brown argillaceous ore, and is similar to that which is 
usually found on the borders of most of the great hmestone valleys in the 
State. 

Good roofing slate is quarried on both sides of the Susquehanna near 
Peach Bottom ferry ; and in the serpentine associated with the primary 
rocks in the southern part of the county, chrome ore and the silicate of mag- 
nesia are found in considerable abundance. From the last named mineral, 
large quantities of Epsom salts {sulphate of magnesia) are manufactured in 
Baltimore. 

The principal streams in this county are the Conestoga, Octo- 
rara, Peqvea, Chicqvesaliinga, Conoy and Conewaga, with their 
tributary branches, which flowing generally in a south-westerly- 
course, and watering the whole county in every direction, dis- 
charge themselves into the Susquehanna river. In the limestone 
region of this county, as in similar formations elsewhere, many 
of the smaller streams, after flowing some distance, suddenly dis- 
appear, and then running sometimes several miles under ground, 
reappear again on the surface with increased strength. 

The streams above enumerated, together with their branches, 
afford numerous seats for mills and manufactories. There are 
within the limits of the county 263 grist and merchant mills, 106 
saw mills, a number of oil, clover and hemp mills ; fuUing and 
carding mills; 5 rolling mills, 7 furnaces, 13 forges, 3 foundries, 3 
tilt hammers, 3 sickle factories, 3 paper mills, 10 woollen facto- 
ries, one cotton factory, and one card machine factory. Besides 
those which are driven by water power, there are three foundries 
in the city of Lancaster and one in Columbia, driven by steam, 
thus making the whole number of foundries seven. 

The city of Lancaster is pleasantly situated, nearly in the centre 
of the county, about one mile west of the Conestoga creek. This 
city was first laid out in the year 1730, by Andrew Hamilton, the 
proprietary, under a deed or grant from the heirs of WilHam Penn, 



LANCASTER COUNTY. 267 

at which time it became the seat of justice for the county and has 
remained so ever since. It was originally incorporated as a bo- 
rough in 1742, and in 1777 the ancient corporation was re-esta- 
blished by a special act of the general assembly. In 1818 it was 
erected into a city under the government of a mayor, recorder, 
nine aldermen and a select and common council, the former con- 
sisting of nine and the latter of fifteen members. It contains about 
1,500 houses, which are mostly built of brick, and has a popula- 
tion, according to the last census, of 8,417 inhabitants. The 
streets are wide and cross each other at right angles, giving to the 
city an appearance of neatness, elegance and convenience. 

Situated in the midst of a rich and populous country, immedi- 
ately on the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road, communicating 
with Philadelphia and with the Susquehanna river ; with the city 
of Baltimore, by means of the Baltimore and Susquehanna rail 
road, and with the Chesapeake bay by means of the Conestoga 
slack- water and the Susquehanna and Tide-water canal, which thus 
afford an uninterrupted water communication with Baltimore and 
Philadelphia — it has consequently become a place of considerable 
trade and importance. It has manufactories of rifles, hats, combs, 
&c., an extensive cooking stove foundry, several other foundries 
and steam engine manufactories, coach and car factories, several 
large tanyards, breweries and distilleries, together with establish- 
ments for the manufacture of thrashing machines, ploughs and 
other useful articles. 

The public buildings are a court house, erected in a square near 
the centre of the city, from which the four principal streets diverge 
in opposite directions ; a market house, and a large building for 
the accommodation of the county offices, all of brick ; and a strong, 
though antiquated and inconvenient stone jail, which it is pro- 
bable will be soon supplied by a new and more convenient one, 
as efforts are now being made on the part of some philanthropic 
citizens to effect this desirable object. It has two banks, incorpo- 
rated in the year 1814, with a capital of $1,200,000, and another 
incorporated in 1841, with a capital of $200,000. There is also a 
branch of the Bank of Pennsylvania at this place. 

There are thirteen places of public worship in the city, viz. : one 
Presbyterian, one Episcopalian, one Methodist, two Lutheran, one 
German Reformed, one Moravian, one church of God, (a peculiar 
s6ct of Baptists,) one Roman Cathohc, one New Jerusalem temple, 
orSwedenborgians, one Friends' meetinghouse, (but the members 
of that society having generally left the place, their meetings have 
been discontinued for several years,) and two coloured or African 
churches. 

There is also a theatre, and a fine hall erected by the enterprise 
of the mechanics of the place, called "the Mechanics' Institute," 
and reflecting great credit upon their spirit and liberality, in which, 
during the winter season, lectures are maintained for the benefit 
of the institute. There is an excellent classical and mathematical 
academy in this city, established by legislative bounty and fostered 
by the funds of the old Franklin college, under a recent act of as- 



268 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

sembly. The common school system is in full and successful 
operation : the schools are kept open eleven months in the year, 
and facilities are afforded for educating all the youth of the city. 

According to the assessment for 1842, the valuation of real es- 
tate within the city was $2,411,990. The State tax on this was 
$2,41 1 .99. The personal State tax for the same year was $2,728.55, 
making a total paid to the State of $5,140.54. 

The original settlers of this city were English Friends and Epis- 
copalians : but after the lapse of a few years it became the point 
of attraction to German immigrants, from whom the greater por- 
tion of the present innabitants are descended. Lancaster was for- 
merly the seat of the State government, but in the year 1812 the 
general assembly passed an act for its removal to Harrisburg. 

Columbia is situated on the Susquehanna, about ten miles west- 
ward from Lancaster, and is built upon the high sloping bank of 
the river. From its commanding position at the termination of 
the eastern division of the Pennsylvania canal, and the western 
termination of the Philadelphia rail road — having communication 
with Philadelphia and Baltimore by means of rail roads, with the 
interior of Pennsylvania by means of canals, and with the Chesa- 
peake bay by means of the tide water canal — it has become a place 
of considerable business. It is the principal depot for the lumber 
trade of the Susquehanna, and for much of the coal sent from the 
mines on its tributary streams. 

This town was originally laid out by Samuel Wright, in the 
year 1788, and was incorporated into a borough in 1814. It con- 
tains about 400 dwelling houses, a bank, a town haU, and seven 
places of pubhc worship, viz. Friends, Presbyterians, Methodists, 
Roman Cathohcs, German Lutherans, each one, — and two Afri- 
can meeting houses. It has a good brick market house, and an 
academy also of brick. Columbia is an accepting district under 
the common school law, and the schools established are well con- 
ducted by competent teachers. 

There is a noble bridge, a mile and a quarter in length, across 
the Susquehanna at this town, which was built in 1832-3. The 
one formerly erected here in 1813—14 was swept away in the 
spring of 1832 by an extraordinary ice freshet in the river. A rail 
road track is laid on this bridge, connecting the Philadelphia and 
Columbia with the Baltimore and Susquehanna rail road. The 
Susquehanna and Tide-water canal commences opposite to this 
place, being connected with the Pennsylvania canal by means of 
a dam thrown across the river a short distance below the town. 
The population of Columbia, according to the last census was 
2,719. The original settlers of the town were Q^uakers or Friends. 

Marietta is built on a beautiful piece of sloping ground, on the 
east side of the Susquehanna, about 3 miles above Columbia, and 
one mile above the mouth of Chicquesalunga creek. A considera- 
ble trade in lumber is carried on here ; but the town does not seem 
to be in a very thriving condition, though the Pennsylvania canal 
passes through it, and a good turnpike connects it with Lancaster, 
Columbia and Harrisburg. It was incorporated into a borough in 



LANCASTER COUNTY. 



269 



1812. It contains a town hall, a market house, an academy, and 
three places of public worship. Population 1,428. 




Susquehanna river below Marietta, from S. S. Haldeman's spring house. 

Elizabethtown, is near the mouth of the Conewaga creek, about 
18 miles north-west from the city of Lancaster, on the turnpike 
leading to Harrisburg, and near the Harrisburg and Lancaster rail 
road. It was made a borough in 1827, and contains a brick mar- 
ket house, a town hall, and four churches. Population about 
1500. The first settlers were Germans, and their descendants still 
inhabit the town. 

Maiiheim, is an ancient and pleasant town, situate on the west 
side of Chicquesalunga creek, about eleven miles north-west from 
the city of Lancaster. It was originally laid out in 1762, by a 
German of considerable wealth, named Henry William Steigle, 
who erected several furnaces in the neighbourhood, an extensive 
glass manufactory, and a splendid mansion for his own residence, 
where he resided in a kind of feudal magnificence until his death. 
The glass factory has long since gone to decay. The town is in 
the midst of a fertile country, but has no manufactories. It has 
four places of worship, and a population of about 400. 

Washington, is on the eastern bank of the Susquehanna, about 
three miles below Columbia. It has little trade except in lumber 
and coal for the supply of the neighbourhood : there are two 
places of public worship, and about 300 inhabitants. On the high- 
est point of land in the town is an ancient Indian burial place, 
which is still religiously preserved by the inhabitants from dese- 
cration; and in digging cellars, &c., in the town, it is not uncom- 

23* 



270 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

mon to come upon an Indian grave, with earthern vessels, pipes 
and other rude articles deposited therein. 

Strasburg, is situated in a rich and highly cultivated valley, about 
8 miles south-east from the city of Lancaster. It was origin- 
ally called Bettelhausen by the Germans. This is one of the old- 
est settlements in the county, being on what is called " the king's 
old highway," a road leading at a very early day, and before the 
organization of Lancaster county, from Philadelphia to Conestoga 
at Postlethwaite's, the scene of most of the earlier treaties between 
the colonial governors and the aborigines, Strasburg is a pleasant 
place, though not remarkable for business. The inhabitants are 
generally Well educated and intelligent. The town supports an 
excellent classical academy, and the common schools are well sus- 
tained. There are three places of public worship, for Presbyte- 
rians, German Lutherans, and Methodists. Population about 900. 
It was incorporated as a borough in 1816. 

In addition to the towns already mentioned, the county contains 
many villages of considerable wealth and importance, inhabited 
by an industrious and thriving population. Among the most pro- 
minent of these villages are Moimtjoy, Maytown, Litiz, Reains- 
tovm, Churchtown, JVew Holland, Ephrata, and Willianistown. 

The agricultural products are chiefly wheat, rye, barley, oats, 
Indian corn, potatoes, grass, live stock, &c. Great quantities of 
flour are manufactured, and whisky was formerly a considerable 
article of produce ; but since the general prevalence of temperance 
the number of distilleries has greatly diminished. 

The surplus produce is sent to the markets of Philadelphia and 
Baltimore, to which there is convenient access by rail roads and 
canals. 

This county is well supplied with many varieties of excellent 
timber : oak, chestnut, hickory, walnut, and ash are the most 
abundant. The timber finds a ready market at home, for the sup- 
ply of the furnaces, forges, &c., and for domestic consumption. 

Besides the flour, saw, oil, fulling and other mills already enu- 
merated, together with the furnaces, forges, &c., the county, in- 
cluding the city of Lancaster, contains 58 tanneries, 10 breweries, 
and 117 distilleries. Of the distilleries, however, perhaps not more 
than 15 are now continued in use: of the 28 in the city of Lan- 
caster, but two are now in actual operation, and they only upon a 
very limited scale. 

The valuation of real and personal estate in the city and county 
of Lancaster, subject to taxation by the county, in 1842, was 
$33,907,409: county tax $53,132: State tax $46,615. 

Lancaster county is favourably situated with regard to inland 
and water communication with the north, south, east, and west. 
The Eastern division of the Pennsylvania canal enters the county 
at Conewaga creek, the boundary between Lancaster and Dauphin, 
and continuing down the bank of the Susquehanna, terminates at 
Columbia, a distance of about 15 miles. At the latter point, the 
Susquehanna and Tide-water canal commences and continues to 
Havre de Grace, thus forming an outlet to Chesapeake bay for 



LANCASTER COUNTY. 27J 

the produce of the county. The Conestoga slack-water navigation 
extends from the Susquehanna river to the city of Lancaster, 9 
distance of 17 miles by the course of the stream, and connects wiib 
the Tide-water canal by means of a dam thrown across the river. 

The Philadelphia and Columbia rail road traverses the county, 
from the Chester county line to its termination at Columbia, a dis- 
tance of about 34 miles, and nearly equidistant from the northern and 
southern extremities of the county. The Harrisburg, Portsmouth, 
Mountjoy, and Lancaster rail road branches off from the Philadel- 
phia and Columbia rail road about a mile west of Lancaster city, 
and passes through the county in a north-west direction for abouc 
20 miles, by means of which a communication is had with the 
Cumberland valley_, the Franklin and other rail roads in the west 
and south-west. 

The Philadelphia and Lancaster turnpike passes through about 
20 miles of the county, connecting at Lancaster with the Lancas- 
ter and Susquehanna turnpike, which extends to Columbia, 10 
miles. It also connects with the Lancaster and Harrisburg turn- 
pike, which extends in a north-west direction to the Dauphin 
county line, about 20 miles. There is also a turnpike from Lan- 
caster to Marietta, a distance of 12 miles ; another called the Har- 
risburg, Ephrata, and Downingtown turnpike, passing through the 
northern part of the county in a north-west direction, from the 
boundary of Chester county to that of Lebanon, about 29 miles. 
Another turnpike leads from Lancaster to New Holland, 12 miles ; 
connecting with the Conestoga turnpike, which leads from Church- 
town to the Berks county line, about 10 miles. The Marietta and 
Columbia turnpike connects, at Marietta, with another leading up 
the eastern side of the Susquehanna to Harrisburg, and passes 
through this county about 14 miles. The Marietta and May town 
turnpike extends from the former to the latter place, a distance of 
5 miles. An aggregate amount of over 132 miles of good stone 
turnpike road, within this county, has thus been constructed at 
great expense, principally by its own citizens. 

The common roads are generally in excellent order, being kept 
in good repair by the supervisors of the several townships. 

The progress of education is beginning to be much encouraged 
among the mass of the people in this county. There are 31 school 
districts, of which 18 have accepted the provisions of the law. 
With the exception of Lancaster city, most of these districts ac- 
cepted the law soon after its passage. The city became an accept- 
ing school district in 1838. Previously to that time it had a pecuhar 
free school system, under a special act of assembly, by which the 
schools were supported from the county treasury. The common 
schools in the country districts are kept open, on an average, about 
six months in the year. In the city of Lancaster, and the accept- 
ing boroughs, they are open about eleven months. 

There are five classical academies in the county, in which are 
taught the ancient and modern languages, mathematics, chemis- 
try, natural philosophy, &c. These academies are situated as fol- 
lows : The Lancaster county academy, in the city of Lancaster ; 



272 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

the Liliz academy at the village of Litiz, a Moravian settlement, 
8 miles north of Lancaster ; the Mountjoy institute, at the village 
of Mountjoy, on the Harrisburg and Lancaster rail-road, 12 miles 
from Lancaster; the Susquehanna institute, at the borough of 
Marietta ; and the Strasburg academy, at the borough of Strasburg. 

In the city of Lancaster is Franklin college, founded in 1787, 
and designed for the education of Germans in their own language 
and habits. In that year the state endowed it with 10,000 acres of 
land, Avorth $30,000, and the following year added a military store 
house and two lots of ground in the city, valued at $2000. This 
institution was long kept only as a grammar school ; but is now, 
by a recent act of assembly, connected with the Lancaster county 
academy, in which there are three professors and teachers. 

There are in this county 141 places of public worship, as fol- 
lows : Presbyterians 19, Episcopalians 4, (iuakers or Friends 9, 
Methodists 21, Mennonists 32, Lutherans 17, German Reformed 
13, Moravians 3, Seceders 2, Baptist 1, Seventh-day Baptist 1, 
Albright or Evangelical 3, Roman Catholic 3, Winebrenerites 3, 
Universalist 1, New Jerusalem or Swedenborgian 1, Free Churches 
4, African or Coloured 4. 

The first settlements in Lancaster county seem to have been 
made by a company of French or Swiss Huguenots, who, about 
the year 1709, established themselves in the valley of Pequea ; 
being kindly received by the Piquaw Indians, with whom they 
lived for many years in friendship and harmony. In 1718 they 
"were joined by a body of German Mennonists ; and the influx of 
Germans soon became so great as to awaken distrust and appre- 
hension. In 1727, Governor Gordon informed the executive 
council that "it would be highly necessary to concert proper mea- 
sures for the peace and security of the province, which may be en- 
dangered by such numbers of strangers daily poured in, who being 
ignorant of our language and laws, and settling in a body together, 
make, as it were, a distinct people from his majesty's subjects.'* 
Happily, however, the good governor's fears on this subject were 
groundless ; for the strangers were soon found to be a quiet and 
industrious people, and attentive to their civil and religious duties. 
An act of naturalization was passed in 1729, admitting them to 
the rights and privileges of British subjects. Cireat numbers of 
Irish settlers also established th-emselves about the same time in 
the southern part of the county. 

In February, 1729, on a pethion of "the inhabitants of the up- 
per part of Chester county" setting forth the inconveniences to 
which they were subjected on account of their great distance from 
the county town (Chester) and the want of justices, constables, 
&.C. — commissioners were appointed " to run a division line in the 
county of Chester, and settle the boundaries of a county to be 
erected in the back parts of this province towards Susquehanna." 
On a return of the survey being made, it was ordered (May 2, 
1729) that the upper parts of this province, described as aforesaid, 
be erected into a new county by the name of Lancaster' county.^* 
In the same year a loan of =£300 was granted by the assembly. 



LANCASTER COUNTY. 273 

through the influence of John Wright, one of the leading inha- 
bitants in public affairs, for the purpose of erecting a court house 
and jail in the new county. 

About the year 1760, the murders and depredations committed 
by the Indians became so frequent as to keep the inhabitants in a 
state of constant alarm. A company of rangers was raised by the 
settlers to act as a guard upon the frontiers of the county, and pre- 
vent incursions from hostile bands of savages. But where the in- 
habitants were unprotected, or fancied themselves secure, they 
were attacked at night, and their cabins being set on fire, they were 
aroused from their sleep by the flames, and murdered by the mer- 
ciless enemy. That these outrages were perpetrated by Indians 
could not be denied; but of what tribe or from what quarter they 
came, was not so easily ascertained. Suspicions were excited against 
the Christian Indians at Conestoga and the Moravian Indians in 
Northampton county, who had always shown the most friendly 
disposition towards the Avhite settlers. An armed band of the in- 
habitants of Paxton and Donegal townships attacked the Indian 
village at Conestoga, at a time when most of the men were ab- 
sent, and inhumanly slaughtered the women, children, and a few 
old men whom they found in the village. The Indian men, who 
had been absent at the time when this outrage was committed, were 
afterwards placed for protection in the prison at Lancaster; but 
fifty men of the same party who had attacked the village, unexpect- 
edly entered the town on a Sabbath, when most of the inhabitants 
were at church, forced open the prison and put the Indians to 
death. So expeditious were they in this affair, and so little vigi- 
lance or disposition was shown by the authorities to detect and 
apprehend them, that they escaped punishment. 

How is Lancaster county bounded? What is said of the valley, and of 
its soil ? What kinds of rock are in the southern part, and of what nature 
is the soil? What formation occupies the country north of the limestone ? 
At what place are large quantities of iron ore obtained ? What other valu- 
able mineral productions occur ? Mention the principal streams. Mills 
and manufacturing establishments. How is the city of Lancaster situated 
and when was it founded ? By what rail roads and canals does it commu- 
nicate with other places ? What manufactures are carried on ? What is 
said of the pubHc buildings ? Churches? Mechanics' institute ? Acade- 
mies and schools? By whom was this city first settled, and by whom at 
present chiefly inhabited ? In what year was the seat of the State govern- 
ment removed from Lancaster to Harrisburg ? How is Columbia situated, 
and what is said of its trade and business? When was it founded, and 
what public buildings does it contain ? Bridge, rail roads and canals ? 
Where is Marietta, and what is said of it? Elizabethtown ? Manheim ? 
Washington ? Strasburg ? What other places are mentioned ? Name 
the principal agricultural products of this county. Timber. Tanneries, 
breweries and distilleries. Describe the various canals and rail roads in 
this county. The turnpike roads. What is said of the progress of educa- 
tion, and of the common schools ? Name the several academies. Give 
some account of Frankhn college. Religious societies and number of 
churches. Where, when, and by whom were the first settlements made 
in Lancaster county ? What people soon followed in great numbers ? 
When was the county erected, and from which of the three original coun- 
ties was it taken ? Relate some of the troubles which occurred with the 



274 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Indians. Give some account of the attack upon the Indian village at Co 
nestoga, and the events which followed. 

32. Lebanon County, 

Lebanon is bounded on the north-east and east by Schuylkill 
and Berks; south by Lancaster; and west and north by Dauphin. 
It contains a population of 21 ,872. 

Being situated mostly within the Kittatiny valley, the physical features 
and geological character of this county are similar to those of Berks and 
Dauphin, between which it has. Along the southern border are hills of 
sandstone and trap rock, and in the same region we find the middle se- 
condary red shale extending northward from Lancaster into the edge of Le- 
banon. North of this is a broad beltof the valley limestone (II,) extending 
to a line nearly parallel with, and a httle north of the Reading, Lebanon 
and Harrisburg turnpike, where it joins the slate formation (III,) the next 
member of the series. Within the range of this slate, in Lebanon and the 
western part of Berks counties, thin strata of limestone frequently occur, 
and belts of the slate are observed which are red, brown and yellow, thus 
differing from the general dark bluish colour of this formation. In the 
northern part of the slate region are some thick beds of coarse gray sand- 
stone, occasionally containing imbedded pebbles. These maybe observed 
in the hills on both sides of the Swatara creek, about three miles above 
Jonestown. Near Jonestown, on the south, are hills of trap rock, the in- 
fluence of which has produced some curious and interesting modifications in 
the geological features of the neighbourhood. 

The northern part is mountainous. Proceeding northward from the 
Blue mountain, to the county line on the Fourth mountain, we pass, in suc- 
cession, over the intermediate formations between the sandstones of the 
Blue mountain (IV) and those of the Second mountain (X). In the valley 
of Stony creek is the red shale (XI,) and above it, in the Third and Fourth 
mountains, the pebbly conglomerate and sandstone (XII) next below the 
coal. In the narrow trough between these two mountains is the extended 
south-western point of the Pottsville coal basin. 

Magnetic iron ore is found among the hills in the southern part of the 
county: it is mined at Cornwall, where specimens have been obtained 
yielding 70 per cent, of metallic iron. Indications of other varieties of iron 
ore occasionally appear, and in the hmestone formation argillaceous and 
pipe ore has been dug in several places. 

Lebanon, though one of the smaller counties of the common- 
wealth, is distinguished for the fertility of its soil, and the value 
of its agricultural productions. The limestone land is generally 
considered the best ; but in the calcareous portions of the slate for- 
mation there are many excellent and highly productive farms. 
Wheat, rye, Indian corn and oats, are the principal grains culti- 
vated, which, together with potatoes, hay, pork, beef and live 
stock, constitute the staple productions. The surplus produce is 
sent by way of the Union canal, eastward to Philadelphia, or 
westward to the Susquehanna. Several furnaces and forges are 
situated within the county, at which a considerable quantity of 
iron is made. Various other manufactures are carried on, 
chiefly for home supply. 

The largest stream is the Swatara, which issues from the moun- 
tains in the north and flows southward to Jonestown, where it re- 
ceives a branch from the eastward called the Little Swatara. Then 



LEBANON COUNTY. 275 

turning westward, it flows by a winding course into Dauphin 
county, and falls into the Susquehanna at Middletown, nine miles 
below Harrisburg. Quitapahilla creek rises near the town of Le- 
banon and runs westward to the Swatara, into which it empties 
near the Dauphin county line. Another branch of the Swatara is 
Indian creek, which flows southward from the mountains in the 
northern part of the county. The Tidpehocken rises east of the 
town of Lebanon, and flows eastward into Berks county towards 
the Schuylkill. All these, together with many smaller streams, 
afford a great number of excellent mill seats, and many good mills 
are in operation at which flour is extensively manufactured. 

Lebanon, the seat of justice, is a pleasant town, beautifuUy situ- 
ated in a rich and populous neighbourhood, on the turnpike, 24 
miles east of Harrisburg and 28 west of Reading. It is an incor- 
porated borough, and contains 1,860 inhabitants. The buildings 
are chiefly of brick or stone, the streets regularly laid out, and the 
whole town has a neat and pleasing aspect. It contains a hand- 
some brick court house, a stone prison, a bank, an academy, and 
several well built churches. The Union canal passes along the 
northern side of the town, adding much to its facilities for business. 
Jonestown is a considerable village on the Swatara, in the north- 
ern part of the county. Myerstown, on the turnpike 6 miles east 
of Lebanon ; Annville and Palmyra on the same road, the former 5, 
and the latter 10 miles west of Lebanon, are the other principal 
villages. 

The assessed value of property subject to taxation for county* 
purposes, in 1842, was $8,761,450: county tax $15,019: State tax 
$12,770. 

A good stone turnpike, leading from Reading to Harrisburg, 
crosses Lebanon county from east to west. Another turnpike 
branches from this near Hummelstown, in Dauphin county, and 
passing through the south-western part of Lebanon, extends by 
Ephrata in Lancaster, to Downingtown in Chester county. The 
common roads are generally kept in good order. 

The Union canal passes through the whole length of the county 
from east to west, and has greatly increased the means of trade. 
The summit level, between the waters of Tulpehocken and duita- 
pahilla creeks, has been deeply excavated through the limestone 
rock, and lined with plank to prevent leakage. This level is 
chiefly supplied with water raised by artificial means from the 
Swatara, and conducted, partly in hoflow hooped trunks, several 
miles to the canal. Water is also raised from the Gluitapahilla, 
near the town of Lebanon, by steam power, and conducted to the 
canal. An important branch of this navigation passes up the 
Swatara, through the northern part of Lebanon, to Pine Grove in 
Schuylkifl county, by which large quantities of coal are brought 
from the mines in that neighbourhood. 

The state of education is by no means flourishing, not being 
sufficiently encouraged by the people in general. The importance 
of a proper education of youth, and it= influence upon the habits 
and character in after life, do not seem to be well considered or 



276 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

propel ly understood where the acquisition of wealth is deemed of 
much more importance than the cuUivation of the mind. Ten 
school districts are included in the county, of which only three 
have adopted the common school system. There is an academy 
and a female seminary at Lebanon, each reported to contain about 
40 pupils. 

The Lutherans are the most numerous religious denomination : 
there are about 20 churches in the county, several of which are 
large and well built edifices. 

The population consists almost exclusively of Germans, who 
generally use their own language, though most of them are able 
to speak English. They are a frugal and industrious people, 
generally devoted to the culture of their farms, the abundant pro- 
ducts of which supply them with most of the necessaries and 
comforts of life. Much of their clothing is of their own manufac- 
ture, and foreign luxuries find but little encouragement among a 
people accustomed to supply their wants by the productions of 
domestic industry. 

How is Lebanon county bounded ? What is said of its physical features 
and geological character ? In what parts of the county are hmestone and 
coal? Where is magnetic iron ore found? What other varieties of ore 
occur, and where ? For what is this county distinguished ? What is said 
of the soil ? Mention the staple productions, and how sent to market. 
What is said of iron works and manufactures ? Describe the situation and 
course of the Swatara. Quitapahilla. Indian creek. Tulpehocken. What 
is the name of the county town and how situated ? Mention the other 
towns and their situation. What turnpikes are in this county ? Describe 
the Union canal and how supplied with water. What is said of »the state 
of education ? — of the schools and academies ? What rehgious society is 
most numerous and what is said of the churches ? What is said of the 
population and of their habits ? 

33. Lehigh County. 

Lehigh county is bounded on the north by Carbon, east by 
Northampton, south-east by Bucks, south-west by Berks, and 
north-west by Schuylkill. Population, by the census of 1840, 
25,787. 

The face of the country, soil, and geological features are similar 
to those of the other counties which lie chiefly within the Kittatiny 
valley. 

In the south-east are the hills and ridges belonging to the South moun- 
tain range, of primary formation, with some narrow valleys of limestone 
between them ; then the white sandstone next to the primary rocks ; north 
of this a broad belt of the valley limestone ; and then the dark slate which 
extends to the sandstone of the Blue mountain on the northern boundary. 

Iron ore is abundant : the magnetic variety is found on the hills in the 
southern part of the county, but has not been mined to much extent : brown 
argillaceous ore occurs in many places near the edge of the limestone for- 
mation at the base of these hills, particularly along their northern side. 
Some of the most productive mines, however, are in the hmestone range, 
in the neighbourhood of the Lehigh river, north of AUentown ; and others 
near the junction of the limestone with the slate, towards the northern 
part of the county. 



LEHIGH COUNTY. 277 

Roofing slate of good quality is found near the Lehigh, where a large 
quarry of it has been worked for several years. The lower beds of shite, 
adjoining the hmestone, in the neighbourhood of Siegfried's bridge, yield 
good hydraulic cement. Near Trexlerstown, eight miles south- west from 
AUentown, is an iron mine from which, in addition to the ore, an earth is 
obtained, so highly charged with sulphuret of iron, as to be advantageously 
used for the manufacture of copperas. Considerable quantities ot it are 
transported to Philadelphia, by the canal, for this purpose. 

In those parts of the county where limestone prevails, the soil 
is excellent and very productive; the slate region is less" fertile; 
and the gneiss rocks of the southern hills are covered with a soil 
which, though rough and stony, well repays the labour of culti- 
vation. 

The Lehigh river forms most of the eastern boundary, until, near 
AUentown, it turns to the eastward and flows into Northampton. 
The other principal streams are Saucon creek in the south-east. 
Little Lehigh in the south, and Jordan creek, flowing south-east- 
ward through the middle of the county, and falling into the Lehigh 
near AUentown. The county is tolerably well watered for agri- 
cultural and manufacturing purposes, most of the larger streams 
affording good mill seats in sufficient number. 

Jlllentown is the seat of justice, handsomely situated on high 
ground, a little west of the Lehigh river, and commanding a fine 
prospect of the surrounding country. The houses are mostly of 
brick or stone, the streets wide and convenient, and a general air 
of comfort and prosperity is apparent in the place. It is an incor- 
porated borough and contains 2,493 inhabitants. The public 
buildings are a court house, a prison, a bank, an academy, a large 
and handsome building erected for a homosopathic college, and 
several neat churches. The town is supplied with water from a 
large spring at the foot of the hill on which it is built. A pump, 
worked by a water wheel turned by the stream, raises the water 
into a reservoir in the highest part of the town, from which it is 
distributed by pipes laid through the streets. A considerable trade 
is carried on here in lumber brought down the Lehigh, and in 
country produce. The county contains also a number of villages, 
the largest of which are Emaus, Millerstown, Trexlerstown and 
Foglesville. 

The most important productions are those of agriculture. In a 
fertile region like this, an industrious population naturally look to 
the tillage of the soil as their surest dependence for support and 
profit. Considerable progress has, however, been made in many 
branches of man ufacturing industry, and the developement of the 
mineral resources of the county has not been neglected. The iron 
ore of this region supplies material for the operation of several fur- 
naces, one of which has been lately erected on the Lehigh, three 
miles north of AUentown. It is of large size, and constructed ex- 
pressly with a view to the smelting of iron with anthracite coal 
by means of the hot blast. The water power is suppHed from the 
canal of the Lehigh Coal and Navigation Company, and the fur- 
nace, together with the blowing and air-heating apparatus, is con- 

24 



278 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

structed in a superior manner. It has been in successful operation 
since the summer of 1840. 

Assessed valuation of property subject to county taxation, for 
1842, $10,766/248; county tax $13,947; State tax $6,943. 
, The roads and bridges are generally good, and kept in a state 
of creditable repair : there are several bridges across the Lehigh, 
and one over Jordan creek at Allentown, a large and expensive 
stone structure, handsomely designed and well executed. 

The improvements constructed by the Lehigh coal and naviga- 
tion company have been of inestimable value to the people of 
Lehigh county, by affording a cheap and ready means of trans- 

Eortation for produce and merchandise, as well as a considerable 
ome market. By means of this navigation a large amount of 
their surplus provisions, flour, hay, &c., is sent up the river to 
Mauch Chunk and the timber region above ; while that which is 
destined for the Philadelphia market is sent downwards to Easton, 
and thence by canal to Bristol and Philadelphia, merchandise 
being brought back in return. 

In Lehigh, as in most of the other German counties of Penn- 
sylvania, the people have not been distinguished for their atten- 
tion to the cause of education. There are fourteen school districts, 
of which only four have accepted the common school system 
under the law. The academy at Allentown is reported to contain 
about 50 pupils; but it is believed that the higher branches of 
education are not much encouraged. 

Lutherans, Presbyterians, and Moravians are the prevailing re- 
ligious denominaiions. Most of the inhabitants are descended 
from German famihes, and the German language is generally 
used throughout the county. A majority of the people, however, 
understand English, and are able to speak it when necessary to 
converse with persons who do not speak German. 

By what counties is Lehigh bounded ? Describe the several geological 
formations. What varieties of iron ore occur, and in what places ? Where 
are the slate quarries ? In what places are hydrauhc cement and copperas 
earth found ? What is said of the several varieties of soil? What river is in 
this county ? Name the other principal streams and their situation. De- 
scribe the county town. How is it supplied with water ? What trade is 
carried on here ? Mention the principal villages. What are the most im- 
portant productions ? Describe the furnace on the Lehigh above Allen- 
town. What is said of the roads and bridges ? Mention some of the ad- 
vantages derived by the people of this county from the works of the Lehigh 
Navigation Company. What is said of the state of education? Name the 
principal religious societies. From whom are most of the inhabitants de- 
scended, and what language is generally spoken ? 

34. Luzerne County. 

Luzerne county has Wyoming and Susquehanna on the north; 
Wayne on the east; Monroe on the south-east; Carbon and 
Schuylkill on the south ; and Columbia and Lycoming on the 
west. The population of Luzerne by the census of 1840 was 
44,006 ; but Wyoming county having been since taken from it. 



LUZERNE COUNTY. 279 

with a population of nearly 11,000, leaves Luzerne with about 
33,000 inhabitants. 

The surface is generally mountainous ; much of it is wild, 
rough and uncultivated ; but many of the valleys have a fertile 
soil and are improved with well-tilled and productive farms. The 
bottom lands along the river, and most of the region known as the 
valley of Wyoming, have an excellent soil and constitute a beau- 
tiful and productive agricultural district. 

Wyoming valley, including that of Lackawana, is a long elliptical basin, 
bounded by high mountain ridges on the south-east and north-west sides, 
which, uniting at the two ends, enclose the valley in the form of a canoe. 
The average height of the ridge on the south-east is about 1000 feet, and 
of that on the north-west about 800. The range on the south-east is called 
Wyoming mountain in the south and Moosic in the north ; that on the 
north-west is called Lackawannock, Shawney, Nanticoke, &c., in differ- 
ent parts of its course. The length of the valley, from its extreme south- 
western point on the Susquehanna below Nanticoke, to its north-eastern 
extremity on the Lackawana above Carbondale, is nearly 70 miles, and its 
average breadth about 5 miles. It constitutes a separate coal field, the 
mountains which enclose it containing the formations which immediately 
underlie the coal series, with their rock strata inclining towards the middle 
of the valley, thus forming a trough or basin in which the coal measures 
are contained. 

The first ridge along both sides of the valley usually contains the pebbly 
conglomerate rock (XII) which lies next below the coal ; beyond this is a 
red shale (XI) commonly appearing in a depression or sometimes in a little 
valley between the first and second ridges ; and outside of this is the hard, 
coarse, gray sandstone (X) which forms the main ridge of the enclosing 
mountains. This is succeeded by a broad encircling belt of the red shales 
and sandstones (IX) next beneath, which spread out on the west as far 
as to the North mountain, being divided, however, on the south-west by an 
axis containing a pointed belt of the underlying olive slate (VIII,) passing 
north-eastward from Columbia county, and terminating east of Harvey's 
lake. The anticlinal axis prolonged eastward from Montour's ridge, brings 
up another belt of the olive slate, which extends eastward from the river at 
and above Berwick, up the VVapwallopen valley, sinking away to the east 
under the red shales and sandstones (IX) of the next superior formation. 
These red rocks, dipping southward, stretch along the north side of Nesco- 
peck mountain, which is capped with gray sandstone (X,) having south of it, 
in Nescopeck valley, a red snale (XI) reaching to Buck mountain, on which 
is the conglomerate rock (XII) dipping southward beneath the strata of the 
middle anthracite coal field, a considerable portion of which is within this 
county. The mines of the Hazelton, Laurel hill, Sugar-loaf, Buck moun- 
tain, and other companies, are near the line dividing Luzerne land Carbon 
counties. 

Sugar-loaf and M'Cauley's mountains are two abrupt elliptical elevations 
rising from the red shale of Nescopeck valley, and capped by the overlying 
hard pebbly conglomerate rock. On M'Cauley's mountain is a separate 
segment of the coal basin, curiously cut off from the main coal field on the 
south, by the denudation of the valley between this and Buck mountain, 
where the rocks have been worn down to the red shale and carried away ; 
leaving this fragment of the basin resting high upon the summit of the 
mountain to the north. 

The coal beds of the Wyoming valley are far from lying in a regular and 
uniform position in the basin, but have been much tilted and thrown out of 
place by a series of disturbances, which has so confused them that it is by 
no means an easy task to trace and identify particular beds throughout the 
valley, or to ascertain their whole number. There would appear, however. 



280 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



to be not less than 12 or 15 separate seams, of from three to twenty-six feet 
thick ; the hirgest mass being the great bed worlied at the mine of the Bal- 
timore company, which, in some places, including a few thin bands of slate, 
measures 32 feet in thickness. 

Coal is mined at many places along the valley, from the neighbourhood 
of Nanticoke as far up as the mouth of Lackawana, being sent on short rail 
roads to the North branch canal, down which it is shipped to a market. In 
that part of the valley which extends up the Lackawana, though coal is also 
abundant there, but httle is mined except for domestic purposes ; there be- 
ing no canal or rail road by which it can be conveniently transported. But 
at Carbondale, near the upper end of the valley, the improvements con- 
structed by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company afford a means of 
transportation to New York, and coal to the amount of more than 200,000 
tons is there annually mined, and sent on the company's rail road and canal 
to Rondout on the Hudson river. 

Iron ore has been discovered at some places on the borders of the valley ; 
a blast furnace has been erected on Roaring brook, east of the Lackawana, 
and another on Toby's creek, on the west side of the valley. 

The North branch of Susquehanna enters this county from the 
north, having a course to the south-east, until it breaks through 
the mountain on the north-west side of Wyoming valley at the 
Dial knob, about ten miles above Wilkesbarre. Having entered 




Wyoming valley, from Dial mountain. 

the valley through this gap, it receives the waters of the Lacka- 
wana, which flows from the head of the valley in a south-western 
direction. After their junction the Susquehanna turns to the south- 
west and flows nearly through the middle of the valley to Nanti- 
coke, where it breaks through the ridge of conglomerate rock 
called Nanticoke mountain, and passes out of the coal valley into 
the narrow trough in the red shale between the Nanticoke and 
Shickshinny mountains. Continuing in this to the mouth of 



LUZERNE COUNTY. 



281 



Shickshinny creek, the river there suddenly turns to the south, 
and cuts directly across the lower end of the coal basin, leaving a 
small portion of the extreme western point exposed at Beach's 
mine, in Rocky mountain, on the west side of the river. 

The Lehigh forms part of the eastern boundary, and divides Lu- 
zerne from Monroe and Carbon. The principal creeks are JVesco- 
peck and Wapwallopen, flowing westward to the Susquehanna, in 
the southern part of the county ; Huntingdon creek in the south- 
west ; Shickshinny, Hemlock and Harveyh creeks, emptying on 
the west side of the river below Wilkesbarre ; and Spring-brook 
and Roaring-brook on the east side of Lackawana. Bear, Pine 
and Wrighi^s creeks are tributaries of the Lehigh. 

Harvey's lake is a beautiful sheet of water, about three miles in 
length, situated 15 miles north-west from Wilkesbarre, on the bor- 
der of the wild uninhabited region of the North mountain. Deer 
and other game are abundant in the neighborhood, the lake affords 
excellent fishing, and is frequently visited by parties of pleasure 
from Wilkesbarre and other places. There are a number of other 
lakes and large ponds, among which are two very beautiful, called 
Upper and Lower Crystal lakes, lying in the north-east corner of 
Luzerne, near Dundaff", in Susquehanna county. Some of the 




Falling Spring at head of Wyoming valley. 

Streams are precipitated over perpendicular ledges of rocks, form- 
ing beautiful cascades and water falls, which lend additional 
charms to the romantic scenery around them. One of these, called 
Falling Spring, on the east side of the river above Pittston, is a 
considerable natural curiosity. The water is precipitated over a 
high and nearly perpendicular cliff, descending in a sheet of 

24* 



282 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

snowy foam, which from a particular direction may be seen at the 
distance of several miles. 

Wilkesbarre is the county town, pleasantly situated in Wyoming 
valley, on a level plain which here forms the eastern bank of the 
Susquehanna. The town is regularly laid out, having in the mid- 
dle a public square on which are erected the court house, county 
offices and prison ; there are also several well built churches, an 
academy and a bank. A neat and substantial bridge crosses the 
river here, connecting with Kingston on t-he western shore. A 
large roUing mill has been recently erected near the town, and 
several other establishments for various branches of manufacturing 
industry are in successful operation. The number of inhabitants 
contained within the borough is 1,718. Few places in Pennsylva- 
nia offer a more desirable place of residence than Wilkesbarre. 
Situated in a fertile and healthy valley, on the banks of a noble 
river, and having a navigable canal passing through it, it combines 
the means of comfort and the prospect of actual business. Sur- 
rounded by mountains, and all the charms of the most delightful 
and picturesque scenery, with intelligent and hospitable society, its 
attractions are such that visiters usually leave it whh regret. 

Carhondale is a flourishing place, containing about 2,400 inha- 
bitants, which has sprung up within a few years at the coal mines, 
near the upper end of the Lackawana valley, at the western ter- 
mination of the rail road from the Lackawaxen canal at Honesdale. 

Pittston is on the east side of the river, below the mouth of 
Lackawana, about nine miles above Wilkesbarre. Kingston and 
New Troy are on the west side, the former opposite Wilkesbarre, 
the latter 4 miles above. 

Whitehaven is on the Lehigh, 25 miles above Mauch Chunk ; 
and Stoddartsville is on the same river, at the Falls, 13 miles 
above Whitehaven. 

Besides the value of the various agricultural products of Lu- 
zerne, more than 250,000 tons of coal are annually mined and 
sold ; and lumber is produced from the forests valued at upwards 
of $200,000. Iron, leather and various other manufactured arti- 
cles are also produced. 

The assessed valuation of property subject to taxation for county 
purposes, in 1842, (including the new county of Wyoming) was 
$6,702,198 : county tax $15,396 : State tax $3,263. 

The North Branch division of the State canal passes along the 
river from the south-western line of the county, near Berwick, 
to the line which separates Luzerne from Wyoming on the north ; 
being navigable to the mouth of the Lackawana, and above that 
in an unfinished condition. A rail road of about 20 miles is nearly 
completed from Wilkesbarre to Whitehaven, which will connect 
the North Branch canal with the Lehigh navigation. The rail 
road from Carbondale to Honesdale is partly in this county ; and 
rail roads are also laid from the principal coal mines in Wyoming 
valley to the canal. 

The turnpike from Philadelphia to Wilkesbarre, by way of Beth- 
lehem and Nazareth, enters the county at Stoddartsville on the Le- 



LUZERNE COUNTY. 283 

high, and passes thence across the mountains to Wilkesbarre, from 
which another turnpike leads up the river, and extends by Tunk- 
hannock and Montrose to Owego in the state of New York. The 
Milford and Owego turnpike crosses the north-eastern corner of 
the county, passmg by Carbondale. Another road, commonly 
called the Drinker turnpike, branches from the Euston and Bel- 
mont turnpike and passes through the north-east of Luzerne, lead- 
ing to the Great Bend. The southern part of the county is crossed 
by the turnpike from Mauch Chunk to Berwick. 

In the more settled parts of the county schools are well sup- 
ported, and a general attention is paid to the subject of education. 
There is an academy and a flourishing female seminary in Wilkes- 
barre, besides a number of well conducted schools. The whole 
county, including that portion which is now the county of Wyo- 
ming, has .38 school districts, of which nearly all have adopted 
the common school system as established by law. In -30 of these 
districts 214 schools are established, which are open for instruc- 
tion during more than six months of the year, on a general ave- 
rage. 

The history of the beautiful valley of Wyoming presents us 
with many a wild tale of both savage and civib'zed warfare: many 
a scene of fierce contention, horrible cruelty and unexampled suf- 
fering has occurred in that now happy and peaceful region. It 
has become classic ground, — sung by poets and celebrated by his- 
torians, — and is no less rich in story than in natural beauty and 
mineral resources. Its soil has been moistened by the blood of 
those who have from time to time contended for the possession of 
so desirable a spot ; not only have savage tribes there battled with 
each other, and then the Indian against the white man; but the 
only civil war that disturbed the peace of Pennsylvania, under the 
colonial government, occurred here between the Pennsylvania and 
Connecticut settlers. 

Shawanese, Delawares, Nanticokes and other Indian tribes were 
the occasional possessors of the valley, which seems at all times 
to have been a favourite place of abode with these children of the 
forest. The women cultivated corn upon the plains, the men tra- 
versed the surrounding mountains in pursuit of game, and the 
river supplied them with fish. The first white man who visited 
Wyoming is believed to have been Count Zinzendorf, a Moravian 
missionary, who came here in 1742 on a religious visit to the In- 
dians. These unlettered sons of the wilderness, however, could 
not understand or appreciate the motives of a man who would 
come so far, and encounter so many dangers, for the sole purpose 
of instructing them in the means of obtaining happiness after 
death, and that too without requiring any compensation for his 
trouble and expense. They naturally supposed his real object to 
be concealed, and that he desired to obtain their lands, or to ex- 
amine their country with a view to future conquest. It was re- 
solved to assassinate him privately, and those who had under- 
taken the commission of the act approached his tent quietly, and 
found him writing by a small fire which the cool air of Septem- 



284 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

ber had rendered necessary for his comfort. A blanket, hung upon 
pins, formed the door of the tent, and the Indians, approaching 
softly, and slightly removing the curtain, saw the venerable man 
deeply engaged in his studies. At this moment a large rattle- 
snake, which had been lying in the weeds not far from the fire, in 
order to enjoy its warmth more effectually, crawled slowly into 
the tent, and passed over one of the missionary's legs as he lay 
reclined on the bundle of dry weeds which formed his bed, so 
much engrossed with the subject of his thoughts that he neither 
noticed the snalie nor the approach of the Indians. Upon seeing 
this, even the heart of the savage shrank from the idea of taking 
his life under such circumstances, and quitting the spot, they hast- 
ily returned to the town and informed their companions that the 
Great Spirit protected the white man, for they had found him with 
no door but a blanket, and had seen a large rattlesnake crawl over 
his legs without attempting to hurt him. This circumstance, to- 
gether with the arrival of a person soon after who was esteemed 
by the Indians and who knew Zinzendorf, procured him their 
friendship and confidence, and probably contributed essentially to- 
wards inducing many of them afterwards to embrace the Christian 
rehgion. 

The contention which so long subsisted between the citizens of 
Connecticut and Pennsylvania, and which caused so much blood 
to be spilled at Wyoming, originated in an interference of the ter- 
ritorial claims of the respective parties. Strange as it may appear 
at the present day, this region was claimed by Connecticut as being 
within the limits of its charter as granted by the Enghsh govern- 
ment, and in 1753 a company was formed in that colony for the 
purpose of making settlements at Wyoming. In 17G2 about 200 
persons from Connecticut arrived, and estabhshed themselves on 
the east side of the river about the mouth of Mill creek, a little above 
the place where Wilkesbarre now stands. They lived in friendship 
with the Indians and soon extended their settlements to the west 
side of the river. This state of peace was, however, of short dura- 
tion ; for the settlement was suddenly attacked by the savages; 
about 20 persons were killed and the rest fled to the mountains, 
making their way, almost destitute of provisions, through a wilder- 
ness of 60 miles, to the settlements on the Delaware. 

The proprietor of Pennsylvania, having purchased this territory 
from the Indians, granted the lands at Wyoming to certain persons 
who in 1769 took possession of them, together Avith the improve- 
ments made by the Connecticut people that had been driven away 
by the Indians. In the same year 40 new emigrants from Con- 
necticut arrived, who, after much contention and difficulty with 
the Pennsylvania settlers, were most of them arrested and taken 
to Easton, but were afterwards liberated. Soon after 200 more 
came from Connecticut, who buih a fort for their defence and pre- 
pared to resist the authorities of Pennsylvania. A series of skir- 
mishes, and at length of open warfare between the rival bodies of 
settlers succeeded ; armed forces were sent by the proprietary go- 
vernment of Pennsylvania to dispossess the Connecticut people : a 



LUZERNE COUNTY. 285 

number were killed on both sides, and this civil contention lasted 
until the breaking out of the revolutionary war exposed both par- 
ties to a common danger. 

In 1776, a new era commenced in the history of the American 
colonies, and the revolution having annulled the authority of the 
proprietaries and royal governors of Pennsylvania, a brief inter- 
val of peace was enjoyed by Wyoming, even in the midst of war. 
The population at this time numbered about 5,000, and their mili- 
tia 1,100; of these about 300 enlisted to serve against the common 
enemy. The frontier settlements were at this time harassed by 
bodies of British and Indians from Canada, and in the spring of 
1778, a force of 800 men, British regulars, tories and Indians, 
under the command of Col. John Butler, assembled at Niagara 
and marched against Wyoming. The Indians were about 400, 
commanded by Brandt, a warlike chief of mixed blood. From 
Tioga point this expedition floated down the Susquehanna on 
boats and rafts, to within about 20 miles of Wyoming fort. Here 
they landed in the latter part of June, and on the second of July 
took possession of a fort which the settlers had built near the up- 
per end of the valley, called fort Wintermoot. 

Upon the arrival of these hostile forces the settlers collected the 
most active of their men, to the number of three hundred and 
sixty-eight, in a fortification on the west bank of the river, about 
three miles above Wyoming fort. This had been built and de- 
fended by forty of the settlers during the previous troubles, and 
had thence obtained the name of " Forty Fort." Messengers 
were sent to the commander of the Continental army, with intelli- 
gence of their situation, and a request for assistance. The pros- 
pect of receiving aid Avas, however, extremely uncertain, and it 
was resolved by the party in Forty Fort, to march out and attack 
the enemy. On the morning of the third of July, they left the fort 
and began their march up the river, under the command of Col. 
Zebulon Butler. Having proceeded about two miles, they halted 
and sent forward scouts to ascertain the position of the enemy, 
who were found occupying fort Wintermoot, and carousing in 
fancied security. On their return the scouts fell in with two stroll- 
ing Indians by whom they were fired upon, and the fire returned 
by them without effect. The party of settlers immediately marched 
to the attack, but the two Indians had given the alarm, and the 
enemy were found drawn up in order of battle, their line ex- 
tending from the river to a swamp on the west, and their numbers 
much superior to that of the advancing party. The ground be- 
tween the river and the swamp was covered with pine woods and 
bushes, which prevented the movements of the parties from being 
quickly discovered or well ascertained. 

The battle commenced at about forty rotls' distance, and con- 
tinued for fifteen or twenty minutes, through the woods and brush, 
without much execution. In a short time, Brandt and his In- 
dians having penetrated the swamp, rushed with savage yells 
upon the left flank of the settlers' line, many of whom fell and 
were immediately cut to pieces with the tomahawk. Col. Deni- 



286 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

son, who commanded that portion of the settlers, finding that the 
savages were gaining his rear, gave orders to fall back, in order to 
prevent being surrounded by the enemy. This being understood 
to mean a retreat, the troops began to retire in much disorder, and 
the Indians, considering it as a flight, rushed on with their rifles 
and tomahawks, shooting and cutting down the retiring settlers, 
and the rout soon became general throughout the line The set- 
tlers fled in every direction, pursued by the savages, who killed 
or took prisoners all who came within their reach. Some suc- 
ceeded in reaching the river and escaped by swimming across : 
others fled to the mountains, and at length the Indians, turning 
their attention to plunder, gave up the pursuit. When the news 
of the loss of this battle reached the village of Wilkesbarre, the 
women fled with their children to the mountains, and sought their 
way through the wilderness to the settlements on the Delaware, 
where many of them at length arrived after suffering extreme 
hardships. In the battle about three hundred of the settlers were 
killed or missing, and from most of the missing no intelhgence 
was ever afterwards received. A number of those who escaped 
the massacre, together with their women and children who were 
unable to travel on foot, took refuge in Wyoming fort, which on 
the following day surrendered to the combined force of British and 
Indians. 

By the terms of capitulation, the settlers, upon giving up their 
fortifications and military stores, were to remain in the country 
unmolested, provided they did not again take up arms ; but these 
conditions were entirely disregarded by the British and Indians, 
and after the fort was delivered up, all kinds of barbarities were 
committed by them. The village of Wilkesbarre, then consisting 
of 23 houses, was burnt ; men and their wives were separated 
from each other and carried into captivity ; their property was 
plundered and the settlement laid waste. The remainder of the 
inhabitants were driven from the valley, and compelled to proceed 
on foot sixty miles through the pine swamps, almost without food 
or clothing. A number of the women and children perished in 
their journey through the wilderness ; some of the men died of 
their wounds, others wandered from the path in search of food 
and were lost ; the wild, dark and desolate region through which 
they passed being called by the survivors '' the shades of death," 
a name which it has since retained. A melancholy remnant, 
only, of the population of Wyoming thus reached the settlements 
on the Delaware, from which they proceeded to their former homes 
in Connecticut. 

An army of two thousand five hundred men, under the com- 
mand of General Sullivan, was sent to drive the British and In- 
dians from Wyoming ; the latter retired up the Sasquehanna and 
were followed by Sullivan, who overtook and completely routed 
them near Newtown, on the Tioga river. After destroying a 
number of Indian villages, and laying waste their country, the 
general returned with his army to Easton. 

Danger from the Indians being thus in a great measure removed. 



LUZERNE COUNTY. 287 

the surviving inhabitants returned to their possessions at Wyo- 
ming, and being joined by many others, their settlement again 
flourished, and the village was rebuilt. They still refused, how- 
ever, to acknowledge the authority of Pennsylvania, or to be go- 
verned by her laws ; and on the application of that State to Con- 
gress, a board of commissioners was appointed to determine the 
dispute between Pennsylvania and Connecticut concerning the 
jurisdiction of the territory in question, who, after a deliberation 
of five weeks, unanimously decided that the state of Connecticut 
had no right to the land in controversy. But though the Con- 
necticut settlers were now wilhng to acknowledge the jurisdiction 
of Pennsylvania, they refused to yield up their farms and improve- 
ments to the Pennsylvania claimants, and a scene of trouble and 
contention between the different parties ensued, in which resort 
was again had to arms, and a number of persons were killed. 
The civil authorities of Pennsylvania were resisted, and the armed 
companies sent to sustain them were met and repelled by armed 
bodies of the Connecticut settlers. At length, after a long and 
harassing contention, a compromise was effiected ; seventeen town- 
ships being granted to the Connecticut people, on condition of 
their relinquishing all claims to any other lands within the pur- 
chase of the original Connecticut Susquehanna Company, and 
compensation being made to the Pennsylvania claimants. Thus 
at last ended the Wyoming controversy ; the New England set- 
tlers and their descendants became industrious and valuable citi- 
zens of their adopted state, and having now become blended with 
the general family of the commonwealth, they enjoy, in their 
blooming, beautiful and busy valley, the blessings of peace, plenty 
and prosperity. They are not, however, forgetful of the perils 
and sufferings by which their fathers established themselves in 
that favoured spot, and have erected a monument on the battle 
ground of the " Massacre of Wyoming," over the bones of the 
unfortunate sufferers in that melancholy tragedy, to commemorate 
the deeds of that eventful day, and to show to future generations 
the spot where their forefathers fought, bled, and died in defence 
of their families and homes. 

How is Luzerne bounded ? What county has recently been taken from 
it ? What is the character of the surface and soil? By what mountains is 
the Wyoming valley surrounded ? What is the geological structure of this 
valley ? Describe the range of the several rock formations. What is said 
of Sugar-loaf and M'Cauley's mountains ? Give some account of the coal 
beds in Wyoming valley? At what places is coal mined and how conveyed 
to the canal ? Where is coal sent from the Carbondale mines and to what 
amount ? Where is iron ore found and what furnaces have been erected ? 
Describe the course of the North branch of Susquehanna. What river 
forms part of the eastern boundary ? What creeks empty into the Sus- 
quehanna ? — into the Lackawana ? — into the Lehigh ? Describe the dif- 
ferent lakes. Falhng spring. Give a description of Wilkesbarre, its pub- 
lic buildings and other improvements. What is said of its situation and 
general attractions? Where is Carbondale? Pittston, Kingston, and New 
Troy? Whitehaven and Stoddartsville? Mention the principal produc- 
tions, and the amount of coal and lumber annually produced. What canal 
and rail roads are in this county ? What turnpike roads ? What is said 



288 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

of education, academies and schools ? What does the history of Wyoming 
present ? Name the Indian tribes who possessed this valley. Who was 
the first white man that visited it, and for what purpose ? What did the 
Indians determine to do with him and how were they prevented ? What 
gave rise to the contest between the Connecticut people and the Pennsyl- 
vanians? In what year did the Connecticut settlers arrive ? When did the 
Pennsylvanians take possession ? Relate some of the occurrences which 
followed ? In what year was the settlement attacked by the British and 
Indians ? Relate the circumstances attending the battle and massacre of 
Wyoming. Mention the sufferings of the survivors in their passage through 
the wilderness to the settlements on the Delaware. By what means were 
the Indians compelled to retire ? How was the dispute between the Con- 
necticut and Pennsylvania claimants finally settled ? Where has a monu- 
ment been erected, and in commemoration of what event? 

35. Lycoming County. 

Lycoming is bounded north by Tioga and Bradford; east by 
Luzerne; south, by Columbia, Northumberland and Union; ajid 
west by Clinton. Population 22,649. 

The face of the country is generally uneven and mountainous, 
though there are many beautiful and fertile valleys, and a consi- 
derable portion of the rolUng upland is susceptible of cultivation. 

White Deer mountain is on the southern line of the county, 
dividing it from Union ; Bald Eagle mountain extends on the south 
side of the West Branch of Susquehanna, from near Muncy to the 
western limit of Lycoming, and thence continues through Clinton 
and Centre. The Muncy hills are on the east of the river, and 
divide Lycoming from Northumberland and Columbia. North- 
ward is a high range of irregular elevations, deeply inter- 
sected by the channels of the principal streams, and known by 
the name of the North mountain ; being the great Allegheny pro- 
longed eastward. Beyond this is a high table land, with the 
streams running in deep and rocky ravines, and the surface being 
irregular and uneven. This is mostly a wild unsettled country, 
covered with almost impenetrable forests and laurel swamps, and 
offering few attractions except to the adventurous hunter, or the 
explorers in search of coal and iron ore. 

Nippenose valley, in the south-west of the county, presents a 
number of remarkable and interesting features. It is of a regular 
oval shape, being about ten miles in length and four in breadth, 
forming an elliptical basin surrounded by a rim of high and steep 
mountains. The only access to it, without climbing these moun- 
tains, is by a deep gap in the Bald Eagle mountain, opposite Jer- 
sey shore. The bed of this valley is composed of hmestone, con- 
taining fissures and caverns beneath the soil, into which the 
numerous streams that descend from the mountains sink and 
disappear. Finding their way, however, under ground, and 
uniting their waters in those subterranean channels, the whole 
body gushes forth in one enormous spring, near the gap in the 
mountain, forming a powerful stream, which passes through the 
gap and falls into the river above the town of Jersey shore. 

The limestone of this valley (II) is the lowest geological formation in the 



LYCOMING COUNTY- 289 

county, being the same as that of the Cumberland, Kishicoqnillas and other 
valleys in the State. It is surrounded by a margin of the overlying dark 
slate (III,) which is surmounted by the sandstone (IV) of the Bald Eagle 
and White Deer mountains. From the end of Bald Eagle mountain, near 
Muncy, the slates and red shales of the next formation (V) range along the 
north side of the mountain throughout its whole length, having a north- 
western dip, and being overlaid by the hmestone (VI) which appears along 
the valley of the West branch, from Muncy to the mouth of Bald Eagle 
creek, and thence up the valley of that stream. The coarse fossiliferous 
sandstone (VII,) which belongs next above the limestone last mentioned, 
is here so thin as to be scarcely perceptible. The olive slate series (VIII,) 
extends from the Muncy hills around to the north of the limestone belt, 
and continues along the north side of the valley to Dunnstown, where it 
crosses the river above Bald Eagle creek. This formation is seen in the 
range of gently rounded hills which extend along the north side of the 
valley, beyond the limestone. Still further northward we find the red 
shales and sandstones (IX) stretching in a wide belt over the hilly region 
along the base of the Allegheny range ; and above it is the compact gray 
sandstone (X,) capping some of the highest ridges which form the front of 
that general elevation. Almost in contact with this (the upper red shale 
and sandstone (XI) being so thin as to be hardly perceived) is the conglo- 
merate and sandstone (XII) which forms the floor of the coal measures ; 
and which, on some of the hills, supports detached portions of the coal 
series, containing the lower coal seams, whh their accompanying strata of 
iron ore and fire clay. A band of red compact silicious iron ore occurs in 
the lower part of the red shale and sandstone series (IX,) near its contact 
with the upper portion of the olive slate formation. This fine of ore seems 
to range across a considerable extent of country, having been mined on 
Pine creek and Larry's creek, and appearing on Lycoming creek near the 
mouth of Hogeland's run, whence it probably continues to the eastward. 
Copper ore has been found near Muncy creek, but not as yet in any great 
quantity. 

The hmestone (VI) which appears about Muncy, crosses to the west 
side of the river and folds round the olive slate of the Muncy hills again to 
the river above White D.eer mountain, forming, together with the accom- 
panying red shale series, (V,") most of White Deer and Black Hole valleys, 
the red shale extending to the base of the enclosing mountains. 

This county is watered by many fine streams. The TVest branch 
of Susquehanna passes through it in an eastward direction to the 
town of Muncy, and there turns to the south. Pine creek is a 
large stream, navigable for rafts and arks at high water : it flows 
south-eastward to the West branch near the western boundary of 
the county. Lycoming and Loyalsock are large creeks, rising in 
the wild forest region in the north of the county, and flowing 
southward to the West branch. Muncy creek is also a consider- 
able stream, running south-westward and emptying into the river 
near the town of Muncy, Larry^s creek is in the western part of 
the county, between Pine and Lycoming creeks. 

Williamsport is the county town, beautifully situated on the 
north side of the West branch, having a population of 1,353. The 
court-house is an elegant building of brick, having a yard enclosed 
with a cast iron railing and planted with trees. The county prison 
is built of stone. There are two large Presbyterian churches, a 
neat Episcopal church, one Methodist, and one German Reformed 
church, and a large brick academy. The town contains three 
commodious and well kept hotels, with a number of handsome 

25 



290 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA, 

private dwellings. Being situated on the West branch canal, at 
the termination of the WiUiamsport and Elmira rail road, it is a 
place of considerable business. 

Muncy is an incorporated borough, with nearly 700 inhabitants, 
situated in a pleasant valley called " Muncy manor," about a mile 
from the river and canal, 14 miles below Williamsport. 

Jersey-shore, a borough with 525 inhabitants, is on the river and 
canal, in the western part of the county, 14 miles above Williams- 
port. 

JVewhifi-y is a village near the mouth of Lycoming creek, 3 
miles above the county town. 

Ralston is a new place on the Williamsport and Elmira rail 
road, about 25 miles from Williamsport, in the neighbourhood of 
the coal mines. 

The agricultural productions are wheat and other kinds of grain, 
pork, and the various other commodities usually produced by farmers 
in this part of the State. There are many excellent mills ; most of 
the wheat being manufactured into flour before sending it to mar- 
ket. Whisky was formerly a considerable article of export, and 
there were 8 or 10 distilleries within a few miles of each other in 
the lower part of the county ; but at present there are only two or 
three of them in operation. In this, as in other counties of the 
State, the happy influence and general prevalence of sober and 
temperate habits has had the effect of stopping most of the manu- 
factories of intoxicating liquors. 

Within the last few years, the soil in some of the poorer dis- 
tricts- has been greatly improved by the use of lime as a manure, 
and large quantities are now annuafly burned from the limestone 
for that purpose. 

The manufacture of iron is considerable; AstonviUe furnace, 
and the Crescent iron works and nail factory are on Lycoming 
creek, on which stream there is also a forge ; a blast furnace on 
Pine creek ; a large iron foundry at WiUiamsport and another at 
Muncy. A great quantity of leather is produced from a number 
of extensive tanneries. There are also several woollen factories 
and other manufacturing establishments. 

Timber is abundant, consisting of oak, pine, spruce-hemlock, 
cherry, ash, maple and various other kinds. There are in the 
county 155 saw mills, producing large quantities of lumber, the 
surplus of which is sent down the river and canal to a market. 
About half a mile above WiUiamsport is a noble saw miU, be- 
longing to the '* Philadelphia Lumber Company," where an ex- 
tensive business is carried on. 

According to the assessment of 1842, the value of property sub- 
ject to county taxation was $4,931,366: county tax $11,344: 
State tax $7,033. 

The West branch division of the State canal follows the course 
of the river through this county, from east to west; passing 
through the principal towns, and adding greatly to the agricul- 
tural and commercial wealth and importance of the whole region. 
The transportation of produce and merchandise is now so easy. 



LYCOMING COUNTY. 291 

and business communication with the Atlantic cities so constant 
and regular, as to render the remote situation of the district a mat- 
ter of little inconvenience. The rail road from Williamsport to 
Elmira will, when finished, afford a communication northward 
with the state of New York. About 30 miles of it are completed 
and in operation, extending from Williamsport to the coal and 
iron region on the head waters of Lycoming creek. 

There are no turnpike roads in the county, and many of the 
common roads in the more unsettled parts are rough and unpleas- 
ant. There is a bridge across the river at Jersey shore, and others 
over the large creeks along the main road leading to Williamsport. 

The people, in the older settled parts of the county, are gene- 
rally enterprising and intelligent, and some encouragement is given 
to the cause of education. There is a classical school in the aca- 
demy at Williamsport, and common schools are tolerably well sus- 
tained in certain districts. The number of school districts is 31, 
of which 29 have accepted the law, and have 128 schools estab- 
lished, in which the general average period of instruction is about 
five months in the year. 

The prevailing religious denominations are Presbyterians, Me- 
thodists, Baptists, Episcopalians and German Reformed. In the 
neighbourhood of Muncy is a large and respectable society of 
Friends or (Quakers. 

Lycoming was chiefly settled by people from the lower counties 
of Pennsylvania and from New Jersey. Many of the principal 
families are of German and Irish origin ; the German language 
being still spoken by some of the inhabitants. 

In passing through this county the traveller will find much to 
admire in the boldness and beauty of the scenery. Lofty moun- 
tains, gentle hills and fertile valleys are seen in varied succession, 
the noble river winding among richly cultivated fields and busy 
towns, or washing the rocky base of mountain precipices ; the 
winding canal, with the lazy boats gliding quietly along its surface, 
while the sound of the boatman's horn rings loud and clear over 
valley and river, returning in varied echoes from the mountain 
glens. 

But it is in the solitary and uninhabited region in the north of 
the county, where nature appears in those wilder features which 
characterized our deep and dark forest country, before the axe of 
the settler pierced the dense mantle of woods which covered the sur- 
face, and cleared for himself a little spot where the sun might shine 
upon the soil. Here the primitive forest is seen in all its grandeur ; 
huge trees, the patriarchs of the woods, lift their tall forms above 
the younger growth around them ; while the prostrate trunks of 
the fallen dead — dead from age and decay, or overthrown by the 
conquering storm — are scattered thickly among the feet of the liv- 
ing, and there lie, as if to remind them of their own inevitable fate, 
until, by the slow process of decay, they are reunited to the earth 
from Avhich they sprang. 

There are quiet little lakes there too, sleeping amid the dark 
woods, whose waters no boat has ever disturbed since the light ca- 



292 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

noe of the Indian floated gracefully over their surface. One of these, 
called Lewis' or Hunter's lake, on the head waters of Muncy creek, 
has an extent of 250 or 300 acres, and is sometimes visited for the 
purpose of hunting and fishing. Trout are abundant in most of 
the mountain streams : bears and deer are taken by the hunters in 
considerable numbers. Wild cats are common ; but wolves and 
panthers are becoming much more rare than formerly. 

What are the boundaries of Lycoming? Describe the face of the coun- 
try. Name the principal mountains, and their situation. Give a descrip- 
tion of Nippenose valley. What rock formation does it contain? De- 
scribe the range of the other formations. Where is coal found ? Iron and 
copper ores ? What river flows through the county ? Mention the large 
creeks, their situation and course. What is said of Williamsport, its situa- 
tion, public buildings, &c. ? What other towns are mentioned, and where 
situated ? What is said of the productions ? — of whisky and distilleries ? 
By what means has the soil been recently improved? Mention the iron 
works and manufactories. Products of the forest. What canal is in this 
county, and what is said of its importance to the interest of the inhabitants ? 
What rail road? What is said of education, academies and schools? 
Name the principal religious societies. By whom was the county chiefly 
settled ? What is said of the interesting scenery of this county ? Where 
is Lewis' lake ? What species of game abound ? 

36. McKean County. 

McKean county adjoins the state of New York on the north. 
Potter county on the east. Elk on the south, and Warren on the 
west. Inhabitants 2,975. 

The surface of the country is rolling and uneven, being some- 
what hilly and broken along the streams, but nowhere mountain- 
ous. The soil is said to be admirably adapted to grazing, and 
even in its natural state affords good pasturage for cattle in the 
woods. Most of the county is covered by a heavy growth of fo- 
rest timber, the country is sparsely inhabited and the settlements 
few and far between. 

Lumber is the staple production, which is principally floated 
down the Allegheny river to a market. Large quantities of maple 
sugar are made by the inhabitants, and salt is manufactured to 
some extent from salt wells in the county. 

The lower strata of the bituminous coal formation extend over a portion 
of the southern section of this county; but in the north we find rocks 
whose geological position is below the coal measures, and which, having 
a gentle inclination towards the south, pass beneath the coal bearing strata 
in that direction. Iron ore will probably be discovered at a future day, 
when the country shall have been more minutely explored. 

The principal streams are the head waters of the Allegheny river, 
which flows northward into the state of New York, and then turn- 
ing to the south-west, re-enters Pennsylvania at the north-western 
corner of this county. In the west is Kenzua creek, a branch of 
the Allegheny : and in the south the sources of the Clanon river. 
In the south-east rises Sinnemahoning creek, a tributary to the 
West branch of Susquehanna. 



MERCER COUNTY. 293 

Smethpnrt is the seat of justice, — a small town containing the 
usual county buildings. There are some public roads leading 
from this place in different directions, but in general the facilities 
for travelling, except on horseback, are by no means extensive. 

Even among this scattered population, education is not neg- 
lected. Common schools are established according to the system 
provided by law, and reports from each of the 9 districts have been 
received by the superintendent, showing that 37 schools are in 
operation, -which are taught on an average nearly six months in 
the year. 

Assessed valuation of property subject to taxation in 1842, 
$526,321 : county tax $5,263 : State tax $535. 

Many of the earlier settlers were from the Eastern states, and 
some from other parts of Pennsylvania. 

How is McKean county bounded ? What is the nature of the surface 
and soil ? Mention the staple production, and the principal articles of manu- 
facture. What is the geological character of the county? Describe the 
principal streams. What is the county town? What is said of education ? 
By whom was the county first settled ? 

37. Mercer County. 

Mercer has Crawford on the north, Venango on the east, Butler 
on the south-east, Beaver on the south, and the state of Ohio on 
the west. The entire population in 1840 was 32,873. 

In some portions of the county the surface may almost be called 
level ; but it is generally rolling and uneven, without being much 
broken. Tracts of alluvial bottom land of remarkable fertility are 
found in the valleys of the water courses : the upland is generally 
a clayey loam, producing good crops of grain and grass. In the 
southern part, where limestone is most abundant, the soil is highly 
fertile and of enduring quality. Few counties combine more ad- 
vantages than this : it has a rich soil, a pleasant and healthy cli- 
mate, pure and wholesome water in sufficient abundance for every 
purpose, and is favourably situated for trade by means of the State 
improvements. 

The rock strata of Mercer county belong chiefly to the lower series of 
the bituminous coal formation, having a gentle inclination towards the 
south-east, in consequence of which a greater variety of successive beds 
belonging to that formation are found overlying each other in the south- 
eastern part of the county, and successively cropping out and disappearing 
towards the north-west. Several beds of excellent coal, from two to six 
feet in thickness, extend over a large portion of the county, appearing along 
both sides of the Shenango valley and in various other places favourable 
for extensive mining operations. The completion of the Erie canal will 
afford the means of transporting this coal to Lake Erie, the state of New 
York and to Canada on the north, as well as to the Ohio and Mississippi 
on the south ; so that it is scarcely possible to predict the amount of busi- 
ness which must at no distant day arise from these favourable circum- 
stances. 

Iron ore occurs in the neighbourhood of Georgetown ; also on the Little 
Neshannock, and in various other parts of the county. Two blast furnaces 

25* 



294 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

have been erected for smelting the ore ; a number of cupola furnaces for 
castings, and a large rolling mill and nail factory which is doing an exten- 
sive business. 

The principal stream is the Shenango, which passes through the 
western part of Mercer from north to south. Its chief branches 
are the Fymatiming, which enters on the north-west from the state 
of Ohio, and the JYeshannock, flowing southward from the central 
part of the county. Mahoning river toOches the south-western 
corner, and Siippery-ro^k creek the south-eastern. Numerous 
smaller streams, of sufficient power for mills and manufacturing 
purposes, water every part of the county. 

Mercer, the seat of justice, occupies a nearly central position, 
and is beautifully situated on a plain near the Neshannock creek, 
on the turnpike road from Pittsburg to Erie, 60 miles north of 
Pittsburg. The town is handsomely laid out, having a public 
square in the centre, on which stands the court house, a large and 
substantial brick edifice. There is also a stone prison, an academy, 
and three churches. Many of the private dwellings and other 
improvements display considerable taste. Mercer is an incorpo- 
rated borough and contains about 800 inhabitants. 

JVeivcastle is a flourishing town at the junction of the Shenango 
and Neshannock creeks, near the southern line of the county, 7^ 
miles east of the Ohio state line and 18 south-Avest from Mercer, 
the county town. It contains four houses of public worship, a 
female seminary and two public school houses. The Beaver di- 
vision of the Pennsylvania canal forms a communication from this 
place to the Ohio river, and the Erie extension will aff"ord a northern 
outlet to the lakes and the state of New Y^ork. It has already be- 
come the seat of considerable manufacturing operations, and has 
a rolling mifl and nail factory, two iron foundries, a number of 
flour, saw, and oil mills, warehouses, stores and other establish- 
ments for manufactures and commerce. Population about 800. 

West Gh-eenville is a pleasant town on Shenango creek, in the 
north-western part of the county, 15 miles from Mercer. The 
Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal passes through this 
place, which bids fair at no distant day to become the seat of ex- 
tensive business operations. It is surrounded by a fine agricul- 
tural district, and already contains seven or eight mills and manu- 
facturing establishments, driven by steam and water power. 

Sharon is also on Shenango creek and the Erie canal, 16 miles 
west of the town of Mercer, and near the Ohio state line. It is a 
place of some business, having mills, warehouses and stores, and 
contains about 300 inhabitants. 

There are many other thriving villages, the principal of which 
are Clarksville in the north-west, Georgetown in the north. New 
Bedford and Pulaski in the south-west, Middlesex in the west. 
North Liberty and Llarlansburg in the south-east, and New Wil- 
mington, nine miles south-west from the county town. 

The great staple production of agriculture is wheat, of which 
more than 300,000 bushels are annually produced. Large quan ■ 
tities of corn, oats, buckwheat and potatoes are also cultivated, and 



MIFFLIN COUNTY. 295 

great numbers of live stock, such as horses, cattle and sheep, are 
raised here and driven to the eastern markets. 

The assessed value of property, subject to county taxation in 
1842, was $3,742,867; county tax $15,323; State tax |4,228. 

Among the public improvements within this county, the most 
important is the Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal, which 
passes along the Shenango valley through the whole length of the 
county, intersecting a fine agricultural region, abounding with in- 
exhaustible deposits of coal, iron ore, lim<»stone and other valuable 
mineral productions. 

The Pittsburg and Erie turnpike passes through the middle part 
of the county : common roads are numerous, and though much 
travelled, are not kept in as good order as those in the older settled 
parts of the State. Good bridges are built over the principal streams 
where crossed by the leading roads. 

The inhabitants are generally a moral and industrious people, 
and a commendable degree of attention is paid to the means of 
promoting popular education, and the increase of general inform- 
ation and intelligence. The common school system is adopted 
in all the districts, 17 in number, and 214 schools are kept open 
for instruction during nearly six months in the year. There is an 
academy in the town of Mercer, and a female seminary at New- 
castle in which about 50 young ladies are instructed in the useful 
branches of female education. 

Presbyterians and Methodists are the prevailing religious deno- 
minations, but there are numbers of other persuasions. 

Mercer county was chiefly settled by emigrants from other parts 
of Pennsylvania; but the population has been considerably aug- 
mented by Irish, English and German settlers. 

What are the boundaries of Mercer county ? Describe the face of the 
country, and the nature of the soil. Mention the general advantages pos- 
sessed by this county. To what series do the rock strata belong ? VVhat 
valuable mineral production is abundant? Where is iron ore found, and 
what iron works have been erected ? What is the principal stream, and 
its chief branches ? Name the other streams Describe the county town. 
How is Newcastle situated, and what manufacturing establishments has 
it ? Where is West Greenville ? Sharon ? What other villages are men- 
tioned and how situated ? Mention the principal products of agriculture. 
What is the most important branch of the public improvements? What 
is said of the turnpikes, roads and bridges ? What is the general character 
of the inhabitants, and the condition of education ? The principal religious 
societies ? By whom has the county been settled ? 

38. Mifflin County, 

Mifflin county has Centre on the north-west ; Huntingdon on the 
west and south ; Juniata on the south-east, and Union on the north 
east. Population 13,092. 

The country is mountainous, having several lofty ridges extend- 
ing from north-east to south-west, separated by beautiful and fer- 
tile valleys. On the east are Shade and Black-log mountains ; 
near the middle is the high and rugged ridge of Jack's mountain j 



296 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

while the western boundary passes along Stone mountain, and 
then north-eastward by that complicated series of elevations 
known by the name of the Seven mountains, part of which are in 
Mifflin, and part in Centre. 

The geological features of this county show abundant evidence of the 
disturbance which has affected the whole of our Appalachian region. The 
action of those mighty forces has produced alternate lines of elevation and 
depression, by which the rock strata are tilted in opposite directions, and 
successive formations exposed. The high mountain ranges already men- 
tioned contain the hard sandstone (IV,) which is the usual rock in most of 
the mountains in the middle part of the State. The valley between Shade 
and Jack's mountain is a basin or synclinal depression, in which the rocks 
dip in a direction towards the centre from both sides. We accordingly find 
the series of variegated and red shales (V) overlying the mountain sand- 
stones on both sides of the valley, and near the middle of it the limestone 
(VI) and the fossiliferous sandstone (VII,) forming a series of hills nearly 
midway between the two mountains. This Umestone is seen on the Juni- 
ata at Lewistown. From Waynesburg (now called McVeytown) south- 
westward, the olive slate formation (VIII) extends to the Juniata at and 
above Newton Hamilton. In Kishicoquillas valley, on the contrary, an 
axis of elevation has brought up the lower limestone (II) to the surface, 
having around it a border of the overlying dark slate (III) near the base of 
the surrounding mountains. Iron ore is dug at various places in this val- 
ley, of the kind usually accompanying the same hmestone in other parts of 
the State ; being the brown hydrated peroxide, occurring in cellular or 
compact masses, hematitic, or of the stalactite structure commonly called 
pipe ore. The fossiUferous band of ore contained in the slates and shales 
(V) above the mountain sandstone, is found in several places within the 
county, of sufficient thickness to be productive. It is mined on the south- 
east flank of Jack's mountain, and at some other points. 

The Juniata river is in the southern part of the county ; its 
course for about five miles after passing Jack's mountain being 
south-eastward, when it turns suddenly north and then to the west, 
and after a course of several miles approaches within a few hun- 
dred yards of its channel above the bend. It then turns north-east- 
ward, and pursues that general course into Juniata county. Kishi- 
coquillas creek flows out of the valley of that name, through a 
gap in Jack's mountain, and falls into the Juniata at Lewistown. 
A little below is the mouth of Jac¥s creek. 

Lewistown, the seat of justice, is a flourishing place containing 
upwards of 2000 inhabitants. Its favourable location on the Juniata 
river, the state canal, and the great northern turnpike, at a point 
which forms the outlet from the rich and productive valleys on the 
northward, has rendered it a place of very considerable business. 
The public buildings are a handsome new court house, a stone 
prison, a bank, an academy, a neat Episcopalian church, a large 
Methodist meeting house, and places of worship for a Lutheran 
and a Catholic congregation. 

McVeytown, {ormerly called Waynesburg, on the Juniata, 11 
miles above Lewistown, is an incorporated borough with a popu- 
lation of 350. JVewton Hamilton is a small town in the south- 
western part of the county. Belleville and Jlllenville are flourish- 
ing villages in Kishicoquillas valley. 

The soil of the valleys is generally productive j but that of Kishi- 



MIFFLIN COUNTY. 297 

coquillas is eminently so, being one of the most fertile, beautiful 
and well cultivated tracts in Pennsylvania. It is about 30 miles in 
length and from three to four in breadth; inhabited chiefly by 
Germans of a peculiar religious society called .^misc/i, a peaceable^ 
moral and industrious people, who appear to follow the Scripture 
injunction, ^' study to be quiet and mind thine own business." 

Excellent crops of wheat, corn and the other kinds of grain 
usually cultivated, are grown in these valleys ; great numbers of 
cattle and hogs are raised by the farmers^ and flour, pork and other 
agricultural products to a large amount are annually sent on the 
canal to the eastern markets. There are 3 blast furnaces, 2 forges 
and 2 foundries for the manufacture of iron, for which purpose the 
mountain forests furnish charcoal in abundance. There are also 
several woollen factories, and other manufacturing establishments. 
The assessed value of property taxed by the county in 1842, 
was $4,513,297 : county tax $6,506. 

The Juniata division of the Pennsylvania canal, and the north- 
ern turnpike from Harrisburg to Pittsburg, both pass through Mif- 
flin county. There is also a turnpike from Lewistown to Belle- 
forite, which continues thence to Erie. 

Education on the common school system is general ; all the dis- 
tricts, ten in number, having accepted the provisions of the law. 
There are 63 schools established, and instruction is given during 
an average of 6^ months in the year. Societies for the promotion 
of moral and benevolent objects have been instituted, and the cha- 
racter of the inhabitants is generally moral and intelligent. 

The most numerous religious denominations are Presbyterians, 
Methodists, Lutherans, and German Reformed ; there are also 
some Baptists and Episcopalians. The inhabitants are mostly de- 
scendants from Irish and German families ; many of the latter con- 
tinue to speak their own language. 

Much of the scenery along the banks of the Juniata, in this county, 
is of the same wild and picturesque character which gives such va- 
ried and romantic beauty to the shores of that river, throughout most 
of the distance from its source in the dark and solitary glens of the 
Allegheny mountain, to its junction with the placid waters of the 
Susquehanna. High mountain ridges rise abruptly from the river, 
with towering cliffs, whose gray and naked summits have braved 
the storms of a thousand winters, still standing in their sublime 
and quiet grandeur, as unchanged by the shock of the tempest as 
by the sighing of the summer breeze ; and there they will stand 
for ever, bidding defiance to the elements and to time, until, at the 
word of Him by whom they were created, ^' the everlasting moun- 
tains shall be scattered, and the perpetual hills shall bow." In 
this wild and romantic region, the charms of our native scenery 
are displayed in all the beauty of their original rude and primitive 
character. The tree-clad mountain, the towering precipice, the 
beautiful river pursuing its quiet course between the hills, — the 
desert loneliness and the savage grandeur which reign around, af- 
ford to the lover of nature many a scene for delightful contempla- 
tion, — many a quiet secluded spot where he may rest in undis- 



298 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




Juniata river. 



turbed meditation, and, far removed from the works of man, de- 
rive lessons of wisdom and good from those of tne Creator 
magnificently displayed around him. 



so 



How is Mifflin bounded ? Describe the face of the country, and the prin- 
cipal mountains. What is said of its geological features ? Mention the 
range of some of the principal rock formations ? What two varieties of 
iron ore occur, and where found ? Describe the course of the Juniata river. 
What creeks are mentioned ? Describe the county town and the advan- 
tages of its position ? Where is McVeytown, and what was it formerly 
called ? Mention some of the other towns, and their situation. What is 
said of the soil of the valleys ? Give a description of Kishicoquillas valley, 
and its inhabitants. What are the productions of this county ? Iron works 
and manufactories ? Canal, and turnpikes ? What is said of education, 
societies for moral and benevolent purposes, &c.? Principal religious de- 
nominations? From whom are the inhabitants chiefly descended ? De- 
scribe the scenery along the Juniata river. 

39. Monroe County. 

Monroe county was erected in 1836 from parts of Northampton 
and Pike. It is bounded on the north by Wayne and Pike; on the 
east by the river Delaware; on the south by the Blue mountain, 
which separates it from Northampton, and on the west by Carbon 
and Luzerne. Population 9,879. 

The face of the country is irregular, being diversified by moun- 
tains, hills and valleys. The Kittatiny or Blue mountain on the 
south, and Pokono in the west, are the principal mountains ; 



MONROE COUNTY. 299 

Chesnut hill. Prospect hill, and other elevated ridges are situated 
between these mountains. 

The geological character of the county may be understood from the fol- 
lowing brief sketch. Along the northern side of the Blue mountain is a 
narrow belt of red and variegated shale (V,) succeeded on the north by a 
hmestone (VI) of no great thickness. Then follows the coarse fossiliferous 
sandstone (VII) forming a sharp, rocky ridge nearly parallel with the moun- 
tain. On the northern side of this we come upon the olive slate formation 
(VIII,) the lower beds of which are in some places so calcareous as to form 
a rough, slaty limestone, containing masses of chert or flint, and also shells 
and other fossil remains. Approaching towards the foot of Pokono moun- 
tain, we encounter the red sandstones and shales (IX) next in position 
above the olive slate ; these form the southern front of the mountain, and 
extend through the country immediately south-east of it. Passing over 
Pokono, we meet, in the rocky elevated region beyond its summit, the 
hard coarse sandstone (X) which belongs to the next formation. 

The soil of the valleys in the south and east, where limestone 
and calcareous slate occur, is good, and some fine farms show 
that agriculture may be successfully pursued in this region. Fur- 
ther northward, towards the Pokono mountain, the soil is less 
productive ; but is cultivated and improved to some extent. North 
of Pokono is a high rolling table land, rocky, and having in many 
places a wet swampy soU. This region is mostly covered with 
timber, very thinly inhabited, and only valuable for the pine and 
other lumber produced from it. 

Monroe county is well watered : the Delaware river flows along 
its eastern side, and the Lehigh forms part of its western boundary, 
separating it from Luzerne. There are also many large creeks 
which flow towards these rivers. BrodheacVs creek runs south- 
ward from Pike county, and near Stroudsburg receives the waters 
of Pokono and McMickWs creeks from the westward, after Avhich 
it empties into the Delaware two miles above the Water gap of 
the Blue mountain. Further eastward is MarshalVs creek, which 
unites with Brodhead's creek near the Delaware. The Bushkill is 
a large stream which partly forms the boundary line between 
Monroe and Pike. In the south-west are the branches of Aqtian- 
chicola and Big creeks, which run towards the Lehigh ; and in the 
north-west the Tobyhanna, a large stream, issues by several 
branches from the ponds and swamps in the wilderness beyond 
Pokono mountain, runs westward and falls into the Lehigh below 
Stoddartsville ; being, at their junction, nearly as large as the Le- 
high. The streams generally descend rapidly from the more ele- 
vated parts of the country, and afford an incalculable amount of 
water power for useful purposes ; some of which is employed by 
saw mills, flour miUs, &,c., but by far the greater part is yet un- 
improved. 

Stroudsburg is the seat of justice, situated in a pleasant valley 
in the south-eastern part of the county, about four miles from the 
Delaware. The court house, prison, and other public buildings 
have been constructed more with a view to economy than to ar- 
chitectural ornament or effect. The borough contains 407 inhabi- 
tants, and though not a place of very active or extensive business. 



300 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

is gradually increasing. There are some good flour mills in the 
neighbourhood, and a forge on Brodhead's creek, below the town. 

Dutotsburg is a small village on the Delaware, a mile above the 
Water gap, established many years ago, but has never been a 
flourishing place. 

In addition to the agricultural productions of this county, lum- 
ber from the extensive forests in its northern and western parts 
forms a valuable and important article of manufacture and trade. 
White pine timber is yet abundant on the waters of the Lehigh, 
and since the improvement of the navigation from Mauch Chunk 
to Stoddartsville has been completed, settlements have been made 
and many excellent saw mills built in this hitherto almost inacces- 
sible region. A large territory, but a few years since so solitary 
and unfrequented as to be called '^ the shades of death," has now 
become a scene of lively industry, valuable and important for its 
forest productions. Besides the pine, there is abundance of hem- 
lock, double spruce, oak, chestnut, wild cherry, and other valua- 
ble timber. The sportsman finds this an attractive region ; deer 
and bears are common, and trout may be caught in most of the 
streams. 

The turnpike road from Philadelphia to Wilkesbarre passes 
through this county, entering it at the Wind gap of the Blue 
mountain and leading north-westward across the Pokono moun- 
tain to Stoddartsville, on the Lehigh, where it enters Luzerne. 
Owing to the nature of the country, and its being in many parts 
but thinly settled, many of the common roads are rough and ne- 
glected. Some, however, have been improved by funds appro- 
priated by the commonwealth, and are in tolerable condition. 

According to the assessed returns of property subject to county 
taxation for 1842, the valuation is $1,945,510: State tax $2,084. 

The state of education is improving, and the common school 
system is generally adopted. There are 1 1 school districts, and 75 
schools are reported as being in operation under the law, which 
are kept open on an average about 4 months in the year. There 
is an academy, and also a female seminary at Stroudsburg, both 
tolerably supported. 

Monroe county has a population of a mixed description : — in 
the southern and western parts are many Germans who yet speak 
their own language. 

The religious denominations are various. Presbyterians, Lu- 
therans, Methodists and Baptists are the most numerous : at 
Stroudsburg are some Friends who have a meeting house at that 
place. 

When, and from what counties was Monroe erected, and how is it 
bounded ? What is the nature of the surface ? Name the principal moun- 
tains and hills. Give a brief sketch of the geological features of the coun- 
try. What is said of the several varieties of soil? What are the rivers? 
Mention the principal creeks and their general course. What is said of the 
amount of water power? Describe the county town. Where is Dutots- 
burg ? What are the principal productions ? What is said of the forests 
on the waters of the Lehigh, and their products ? What turnpike road 
crosses the county ? Give some account of the condition of education and 



MONTGOMERY COUNTY, 301 

of the schools and academies. What is said of the population, and of the 
rehgious societies ? 

40. Montgomery County. 

Montgomery co-jnty has Bucks on the north-east, Philadelphia 
on the south-east, Delaware and Chester on the south-west, and 
Berks on the north-west. Population 47,241. 

The surface is pleasantly diyersified by hills and valleys ; in the 
north are some rough and rocky eminences, but no part of the 
county can be termed mountainous. 

The soil is generally productive and well cultivated: a consi- 
derable portion is naturally fertile, and much of that which is of 
poorer quality has been so much improved by manuring and care- 
ful tillage as abundantly to repay the farmer for his labour. Some 
elevated ridges in the middle part of the county have a rather wet 
and cold soil 3 but may be made to yield tolerable crops of grass 
and grain. 

In the south-east the rocks are chiefly of the primary class, gneiss and 
mica state predominating, with occasional veins of coarse granite and horn- 
blende. In Lower Merion township is a belt of serpentine, which also 
appears on the east side of the Schuylkill, with an accompanying steatite 
or soap stone rock, which has been extensively quarried on both sides of 
the river. It also contains talc, dolomite and other minerals. A rather 
peculiar bed of rocks, consisting chiefly of feldspar and quartz closely and 
intimately combined, containing also small scales of talc, and occurring in 
rather thin and flat layers, enters the county near the south-east corner and 
passes westward in Edge hill, south of Willow grove ; dividing west of the 
turnpike into two portions, one of which extends south of the limestone 
into Barren hill near the Schuylkill, and the other westward along Sandy 
run until it is lost beneath the overlying red sandstone. 

The hmestone formation of the great valley, in Chester county, extends 
eastward into Montgomery ; occupying a considerable portion of Upper 
Merion township, and crossing the Schuylkill between Spring mill and 
Norristown. From the Schuylkill it ranges eastward through Plymouth 
and Whitemarsh to Sandy run, and terminates in Abington township west 
of Willow grove. Beds of talc slate and other rocks are found in some 
places alternating with the limestone, and veins of quartz are not uncom- 
mon. The limestone itself is by no means uniform in its quality ; some 
of its beds yielding hme of much greater purity than others. In general, 
however, the lime burned from it is highly esteemed, and immense quan- 
thies are produced for the supply of Philadelphia and the adjacent country. 
In Upper Merion township, in the vicinity of the Schuylkill, there are 
numerous and extensive quarries where kilns have been erected for burn- 
ing the stone upon the spot ; the canal and rail road affording great facilities 
for transporting the lime to market, as well as for bringing coal to the kiln» 
for fuel. An immense amount of stone is also conveyed to other places to 
be burned. There are hkewise extensive quarries on the east side of the 
river below Norristown. A very large quantity of hme is also burned in 
Plymouth and Whitemarsh, which is taken by wagons to the city, and for 
many miles into the adjacent country on the north and eastward, where 
it is in great demand for building and agricultural purposes. 

Several large marble quarries are worked near the turnpike, about 13 
miles from Philadelphia, affording varieties of white, da*k blue, and clouded 
marble, which has been extensively used in the city tor architectural and 
ornamental purposes. Iron ore occasionally occurs in the neighbourhood 

26 



302 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

of the marble quarries, and also near Spring mill and Conshehocken on 
the Schuylkill, where it has been dug to some extent. 

On the north of the Umited area in the southern part, occupied by the 
primary rocks and limestone already described, the middle secondary red 
shale and sandstone formation extends over most of the remainder of the 
county. The southern border of this formation overlies the primary rocks 
near the south-eastern corner of Montgomery, and extends westward to 
the Schuylkill about a mile below Norristown, where it crosses into Upper 
Merion and passes thence into Chester county. In the northern part of 
Montgomery this formation is interspersed with ridges and dikes of trap 
rock, which, in the vicinity of Sumanytown and in other places, form rough 
and rocky hills. In the neighbourhood of these eruptions of trap, the red 
shale has been mostly changed to a hard blue or purplish rock, often very 
compact, and ringing under the blow of a hammer like cast iron. Klin- 
gleberg, or Ringing hill has received its name from containing rocks of 
this character. Some of the ridges in the middle part of the county, re- 
mote from any visible locality of trap rock, contain the blue altered strata 
of shales and sandstones ; the change in their character having probably 
been effected by the agency of trappean matter beneath, which has never 
reached the surface, but the heat of which has been sufficient to change 
the texture and colour of the superincumbent red shale strata, and convert 
them into the compact, hard, blue rocks which so frequently appear within 
the limits of this formation. The soil derived from these altered rocks is 
usually of a rather cold, wet, and heavy nature, and is much less esteemed 
for cultivation than that of the red shale and sandstone. 

On Perkiomen creek, near the Schuylkill, mines have been sunk tocon^ 
siderable depth, from which the ores of lead, copper and zinc were formerly 
obtained ; but mining operations have been for some years discontinued 
at this place. 

The principal stream is the river Schuylkill, which forms the 
south-weslern boundary of Montgomery to the mouth of Valley 
creek, below which, on the west side of the river, are the town- 
ships of Upper and Lower Merion, belonging to this county. 
Perkiomen is a large creek flowing southward from the northern 
part of the county, and falling into the Schuylkill about six miles 
above Norristown. Wissahiccon and Pennypack creeks both rise 
in the south-east of Montgomery, and run southward into Phila- 
delphia county ; the former emptying into the Schuylkill and the 
latter into the Delaware : Skippack and Swamp creeks are branches 
of the Perkiomen. Manatawny creek enters in the north-west 
from Berks county, and falls into the Schuylkill at Potlsgrove. 

JVonistown, the seat of justice, is a neat and well built town, 
on the east side of Schuylkill, 16 miles above Philadelphia, con- 
taining a population of about 3,000. Its public buildings are a 
handsome court-house, a county prison, an academy, a bank, and 
several churches. Since the construction of the works belonging 
to the Schuylkill Navigation Company, and the Philadelphia and 
Norristown rail road, this place has rapidly improved, and has 
now become of some importance as a manufacturing town. A 
number of cotton factories have been erected, as well as establish- 
ments for dyeing and printing cotton goods, nail works, and vari- 
ous other manufactories of different kinds. Having a direct com- 
munication with Philadelphia by rail road, and being located in a 
healthy and pleasant situation, it is a place of considerable resort 
from the city. Several newspapers are published herej and 



MONTGOMERY COUNTY. 303 

societies have been instituted for various moral, literary and chari- 
table objects. 

Trappe is a thriving village on the Reading turnpike, nine miles 
above Narristown. 

Pottstown, or Pottsgrove, is a pleasant and flourishing borough, 
containing upwards of 700 inhabitants, situated near the Schuyl- 
kill in the north-west of the county. Both the rail road and turn- 
pike from Philadelphia to Reading pass through the town. 

Sumanytown is in the north, inhabited mostly by Germans. 

Jenkintown, Jlhington, Willow-grove and Hatboro are pleasant 
'tillages in the south-east, all situated on the old York road. There 
are also numerous other villages scattered throughout the county. 

A considerable portion of Montgomery is in a high state of cul- 
tivation, and its agricultural productions are numerous and im- 
portant. Most kinds of grain cultivated in the state are grown 
here, and hay, potatoes, butter, fruit and other articles for the 
Philadelphia market are produced in abundance. The products 
of the dairy alone are estimated to amount to $402,681 annually. 
Lime, limestone, and marble also constitute a considerable item in 
the weahh of this county, producing an annual income of more 
than $250,000. 

The manufacturing operations are numerous and extensive. 
There are four furnaces and five forges and rolling mills for the 
manufacture of iron. At Conshehocken, on the Schuylkill, 12 
miles from Philadelphia, are works for rolling sheet iron, where 
that article is produced* in a style of excellence unequalled in this 
country, and nearly resembling the famous Russia sheet-iron. 
There are 11 cotton and 8 woollen factories, 12 powder mills, 9 
paper mills, about 130 flour and grist mills, 30 oil mills, several 
mills for sawing marble, and numerous other works for the pro- 
duction of various articles of manufacturing enterprise. 

Several important public improvements pass through Montgo- 
mery. The Philadelphia and Columbia rail road crosses the south- 
western corner ; the Philadelphia and Reading rail road, and the 
Schuylkill navigation, extend along the Schuylkill through 
the whole length of the county ; and the Philadelphia and Norris- 
town rail road forms a communication between the county town 
and the commercial capital of the State. 

There are many excellent turnpike roads: those leading from 
Philadelphia to Lancaster, Reading, Bethlehem, and Doylestown 
all cross different parts of the county, and others are connected 
with them in various places. For the number and excellence of 
its bridges, Montgomery surpasses most counties in the State. In 
addition to several across the Schuylkill at different points, there 
are on most of the leading roads expensive and substantial stone 
bridges ; one of which, over the Perkiomen, is of great length, 
built of sohd masonry at a cost of $60,000. 

In some of the townships considerable attention is paid to edu- 
cation, and schools are well supported; but in other districts this 
important subject is much neglected. There are academies in 
Norristown, Pottstown, Lower Merion, and one at Hatboro called 



304 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Lollar academy, after its founder. Judge Lollar. Of the 32 school 
districts only 13 have accepted the common school system as 
established by law, and have 63 schools in operation under its pro- 
visions, which are kept open for instruction upwards of 8 months 
in the year, on a general average. 

Of the various religious denominations, the most numerous are 
Presbyterians, German Reformed, Lutherans, Methodists, Bap- 
tists and Friends. 

The early settlers were mostly Welsh and Germans, who estab- 
lished themselves here soon after the founding of the colony by 
William Penn, and whose descendants still constitute a great ma- 
jority of the population. The Welsh language has become nearly 
or quite extinct j but German is still generally spoken in the north- 
ern townships. 

By what counties is Montgomery bounded? What is the character of 
the surface? What is said of the soil? Describe the geological features 
of the south-eastern part. What is the extent of the limestone formation, 
and where is it extensively quarried ? Where are marble and iron ore 
found ? What formation extends over most of the county north of the 
limestone ? Where have lead, copper and zinc been obtained ? What 
river is in this county? Describe the course of Perkiomen creek. Wis- 
sahiccon and Pennypack. What other creeks are named ? How is Nor- 
ristown situated and what is said of it ? Trappe ? Pottstown ? Sumany- 
town? What other villages and where ? What are the chief products of 
agriculture? Value of lime, limestone and marble? Mention the iron 
works. Other manufactories. What pubhc improvements in the county ? 
Turnpike roads? Bridges? What is said of education? Academies? 
Common schools? Religious societies? By whom was the county first 
settled and when ? What language besides English is still spoken ? 

41. Northampton County. 

Northampton is bounded north by Carbon and Monroe ; east by 
the river Delaware, separating it from New Jersey ; south by 
Bucks ; and west by Lehigh county. The population according 
to the census of 1840 Avas 40,996,- but a part having been since 
laid off as Carbon county, leaves the present population of North- 
ampton about 34,000. 

The southern portion is mountainous and uneven, being traversed by the 
irregular chain of hills called the South mountain. These are chiefly com- 
posed of gneiss and other primary rocks, which are overlaid by hmestone 
in some of the narrow valleys. Magnetic iron ore is found in several places 
on the hills, associatea with the primary rocks. North of these hills is a 
broad belt of the great limestone formation (H) of the Cumberland or Kit- 
tatiny valley, which stretches from the Delaware south-westward into 
Maryland and Virginia, having a soil of the most fertile and productive cha- 
racter, and a comparatively level surface. Iron ore of the brown argillaceous 
and hematite variety is abundant along the south side of the Lehigh, near 
the junction of this limestone with the primary rocks, and is mined in 
many places. It is also occasionally found within the range of the lime- 
stone further north. On the Delaware, above Easton, the limestone belt 
is divided by a high ridge of primary rocks called Chesnut hill, having 
along its southern side, serpentine and other magnesian rocks; associated 
with which are found talc, asbestos, tremolite, augite, nephrite, zircon, tour- 



NORTHAMPTON COUNTY. 305 

malin, and a variety of other interesting minerals. There are few places in 
the State which offer so inviting a locahty to the mineralogist as the neigh- 
bourhood of Easton. On the south side of Manokesy creek, about three 
miles north of Bethlehem, is a small insulated ridge of primary rocks, pro- 
truded through the limestone, and nearly in a line with the range of Chest- 
nut hill. Between AUentown and Bethlehem, along the north side of the 
Lehigh, is a hill in which these rocks also appear, having on its northern 
side some detached portions of sandstone (I) between the primary rocks 
and the limestone. 

The northern border of the limestone formation extends eastward from 
the Lehigh at Siegfried's bridge, by Bath and Nazareth, to the Delaware 
at the mouth of Martin's creek, appearing also on the north side of the 
river to a point nearly opposite Belvidere. from this hne, to the base of the, 
Blue mountain, the country is composed of a slate formation (III) with the 
exception of a narrow point of limestone on the Delaware about the mouth 
of Cobus creek, below the Water gap, which, after extending a short dis- 
tance westward, sinks beneath the overlying slate. The surface of this 
slate region is generally hilly, and the soil but moderately productive ; 
being, however, susceptible of great improvement by the use of lime as a 
manure, when aided by judicious cultivation. Extensive slate quarries have 
been opened near the Delaware, where roofing slate of superior quality is 
obtained in large quantities, and a manufactory of school slates has been 
established in which, by the aid of ingenious machinery, slates of peculiar 
neatness and excellence are produced at a moderate price. There are also 
large slate quarries near Nazareth, and some at other places. Some of the 
lower strata of the slate formation, near its junction with the limestone, 
yield an excellent hydraulic cement, which is manufactured near Siegfried's 
bridofe, on the Lehigh, by the Lehigh Navigation Company. These strata 
are finely exposed on the east side of Martin's creek, near its mouth. 

The Blue mountain now forms the northern boundary of Northampton, 
and is capped by the compact gray and reddish sandstones (IV) of the 
formation next above the slate last mentioned. The Delaware and Lehigh 
rivers both pass through this mountain by gaps apparently torn by the 
mighty force of the rushing waters from the country above ; with high and 
precipitous cliffs rising almost perpendicularly from the water, and present- 
ing magnificent views of wild and romantic scenery on the rivers, as well 
as a widely extended and beautiful prospect from the top of the mountain. 
Nearly mid-way between these two rivers is a singular opening through 
the mountain, called the Wind gap, through which no stream passes; but 
the almost level crest line of the mountain is here depressed nearly as low 
as the country on each side ; forming a notch in the mountain, of peculiar 
convenience for the passage of travellers and teams, and towards which 
the leading roads on both sides converge and pass through in one great 
thoroughfare. 

The Delaware river flows along the eastern side of the county, 
in a direction nearly south, but with a meandering course. The 
Lehigh runs south-eastward along the western boundary to within 
about five miles of Allentown, where it passes into Lehigh county, 
one township of which lies east of the river. At Bethlehem it 
again enters Northampton, having now a north-eastern course to 
the Delaware at Easton. Bushkill creek is a considerable stream, 
rising by several branches near the Blue mountain, and flowing 
southward to the Delaware at Easton; its mouth being but a short 
distance above that of the Lehigh. This stream supplies power 
to a great number of mills throughout most of its course. Martinis 
creek runs southward to the Delaware 7 miles above Easton. M((r- 
nokesy has also a southern course, falling into the Lehigh at Beth- 

^6* 



306 (GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

lehem. Saucon creek flows noith-eastward from the southern part 
of Lehigh county, and empties on the south side of the Leiiigh 
below Bethlehem. All these streams, together with a number of 
smaller creeks in different parts of the county, supply abundance 
of water power for mills and manufacturing purposes. In addition 
to this is the surplus water from the dams and canal of the Lehigh 
company, which is let to individuals for uses requiring water 
power. 

Boston, the county town, is beautifully situated at the confluence 
of the two rivers, surrounded by picturesque hills, having on the 
east the majestic Delaware, on the south the wild and rapid Le- 
high, and on the north the romantic little Bushkill, winding its 
way through green meadows, and having its banks studded with 
busy mills and substantial farm houses. This town is favourably 
located for business, being in the midst of a fertile, well culti- 
vated and populous region, and at the junction of the Delaware 
division of the State canal with the works of the Lehigh Navigation 
Company. It has also a communication with New York, by 
means of the Morris canal, on the opposite side of the Delaware. 
The town is rapidly increasing in wealth, population and com- 
mercial importance; containing by the census of 1840, nearly 
5,000 inhabitants. The court house, an ancient building, stands 
in a public square in the centre of the town ; the other pubUc 
buildings are the county offices and prison, two banks, an aca- 
demy, and a number of churches, some of which are spacious 
and handsome edifices. La Fayette college is a noble building 
situated on the hill north of Bushkill creek, and commanding a 
fine view of the town, the rivers, the canals, and the picturesque 
and flourishing country around, for miles in extent. 

The town is supplied with excellent water, which is conveyed 
in pipes from a large spring on the south side of Chestnut hill, 
about a mile distant. The air is pure and salubrious, and the place 
is remarkable for the general good health enjoyed by its inhabitants. 
An extensive trade in country produce, coal, lumber, and mer- 
chandise is carried on, and various branches of manufactures are 
successfully pursued. There are bridges connecting the town with 
the opposite sides of the Delaware, the Lehigh, and the Bushkill. 

On the opposite side of the Lehigh is South Easton with about 
700 inhabitants, the seat of extensive manufacturing operations, 
which are carried on by means of water power from the Lehigh 
canal. There is a cotton' factory, a furnace and other iron works, 
a wire factory, a foundry, a rifle factory, several flour and saw 
mills, and various other establishments for the employment of 
productive industry. 

Bethlehem, on the Lehigh eleven miles above Easton, was 
founded at an early day by the Moravians or United Brethren, and 
the town is still chiefly inhabited by their descendants. They have 
a large church, a female seminary, a school for boys, a widows' 
house for the support of indigent widows, and a sisters' house for 
the support of indigent unmarried females. All these institutions 
are admirably conducted, and a degree of neatness and order is 



NORTHAMPTON COUNTY. 307 

every where observable which is highly creditable to the society. 
The schools enjoy a high and deserved reputation, and have a 
great number of pupils from the city and various parts of the 
country. The delightful situation of this place, the charming 
country around it, and above all, the quiet and order observed by the 
inhabitants, with their politeness and general attention to the con- 
venience and comfort of strangers, have rendered Bethlehem a fa- 
vourite place of resort during the summer months. The day may 
be pleasantly passed in riding through the beautiful country around, 
in walks among the hills, in boating or fishing on the river ; while 
the evenings are enlivened by concerts and other musical enter- 
tainments, the inhabitants being distinguished for the attention paid 
to music and the excellence of their performances in this art. 

JVazareth is a pleasant town, 10 miles north of Bethlehem, also 
inhabited chiefly by Moravians, who have here a spacious church, 
with other buildings belonging to the society, and a very flourish- 
ing institution for the education of youth. Bath is 4 miles west of 
Nazareth ; Kreidersville, Kemsville, Cheiryville, and other villages 
are in the western part of the county. Richmond, Centreville, and 
Williamsburg are in the north-east, on the road from Easton to the 
Water gap ; Hellerstown is south of the Lehigh, near the southern 
corner of the county. 

Wheat is the staple product of agriculture, which is chiefly 
manufactured into flour, before sending it to market, the quantity 
being estimated to amount to upwards of 135,000 barrels annually. 
Indian corn, rye, oats, and buckwheat are also extensively pro- 
duced. Cattle, hogs, and sheep are raised and fattened for market 
by the farmers ; wool is produced in considerable quantity and is 
mostly manufactured into goods for domestic Avear. Most of the 
surplus productions are sent to Philadelphia by the Delaware ca- 
nal ; some to New York by the Morris canal, and some into the 
coal region for the supply of the mining population. 

The value of real and personal property subject to county taxa- 
tion, according to the assessment for 1842, including that portion 
of the county now belonging to Carbon, was $13,086,243: State 
tax $17,235. 

The public improvements of most importance to this county are 
the Delaware division of the State canal, and the canal and slack- 
water navigation of the Lehigh company. The Delaware division 
extends from tide-water at Bristol to Easton, about eight miles of 
the canal being in Northampton : at Easton it connects with the 
Lehigh navigation which extends up that river to the north-west- 
ern corner of the county. The benefits received by the people of 
this region from the construction of these works will be perceived 
when it is considered that before they were undertaken the Lehigh 
was useless for the purposes of navigation ; produce being sent 
from Easton in long narrow boats which descended the Delaware 
at high water by a hazardous voyage through the falls, and were 
pushed back against the current by the incessant and fatiguing 
operation of "setting" or propelling the boat by means of long 
poles pointed with iron. Transportation to and from the city is 



308 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

now easy and regular, except at seasons when the canal is closed 
by ice. 

The roads are generally kept in good condition for travelling, 
and bridges are built over most of the streams where they are 
crossed by the main roads. There are bridges across the Lehigh 
at Easton, Freemansburg, and Bethlehem, besides some in the 
western part of the county. 

Including that portion now allotted to Carbon county, North- 
ampton contained 22 school districts, in 18 of which the law regu- 
lating the system of education by common schools has been 
adopted. According to reports received from 16 of the accepting 
districts they have 140 schools established, in which the average 
time of teaching is nearly 6^ months in the year. La Fayette col- 
lege at Easton is a flourishing institution, and the seminaries for 
both sexes, established under the care of the Moravian society at 
Bethlehem and Nazareth, are well conducted and extensively pa- 
tronized. 

The inhabitants are mostly of German descent, and in their 
familiar intercourse with each other generally use their own 
language, though there are few who do not understand and 
speak English sufficiently well for the common purposes of con- 
versation. 

How is Northampton bounded ? What chain of hills is in the southern 
part, and what is the character of their rocks ? What variety of iron ore is 
found here ? Where is the hmestone formation and what kind of ore is as- 
sociated with it ? What minerals are found in the rocks of Chestnut hill ? 
Mention the other ridges of primary rocks. Describe the extent of the slate 
formation. What is said of its surfaoc and soil ? Mention the slate quarries 
and the operations at them. Where is hydraulic cement obtained ? What 
is said of the Delaware and Lehigh gaps in the Blue mountain ? Describe 
the Wind gap. What are the principal rivers and their course ? Where does 
Bushkill creek rise and what is its direction ? Mention the other streams. 
What is said of the amount of water power ? Describe the situation of 
Easton. Its advantages for business. Public buildings. How is the town 
supplied with water? What is said of its health, trade, &c. ? Give some 
account of South Easton. W' here is Bethlehem, and by whom founded ? 
Mention the institutions belonging to the society, and the character of the 
schools. What is said of the general attractions of this place ? What can 
you say of Nazareth ? Name the villages in the west : — in the north-east : — 
in the south. Mention the staple product, and the amount of flour annually 
manul'actured. What are the other productions of agricultural industry ? 
Where does the surplus produce find a market ? What canals are partly in 
'his county, and what benefits are derived from them ? What is said of roads 
and bridges? Common schools : La Fayette college : seminaries at Beth- 
lehem and Nazareth ? What is said of the inhabitants, and of their lan- 
guage ? 

42. Northumberland County. 

Northumberland county has a very irregular shape, and is 
bounded on the north by Lycoming ; north-east and east by Co- 
lumbia ; south-east by Schuylkill ; south by Dauphin, and west 
by the Susquehanna river and West branch, which separate it 
from Union. Population 20,027. 



NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY. 309 

The southern part is mountainous, the middle hilly, and the 
northern, along the West branch of Susquehanna, more level. In 
the south are the Line, Mahanoy and Little mountains, in the 
middle the Shamokin hills, and between the two branches of Sus- 
quehanna is Montour's ridge, partly in this county and partly in 
Columbia. The Muncy hills form the northern boundary. 

South of the olive slate (VIII) of the Muncy hills, the country to the 
northern base of Montour's ridge is occupied by hmestone (VI) and red 
and various coloured slates and shales (V,) having a rich soil and being the 
most productive agricultural part of the county. In Montour's ridge is a 
hard gray and reddish sandstone (IV,) overlaid by greenish and red slates 
and shales (V) with their thin strata of hmestone and the valuable band 
of fossihferous iron ore. This formation is found on both sides of the ridge, 
and sometimes saddles over its top. Overlying the red shale is a belt of 
limestone extending also on both sides of the ridge ; that on the south side 
appearing near the West branch about 4 miles above the town of North- 
umberland, and extending towards the North branch below Danville. 
South of this are hills containing the olive slates and gray sandstones (VIII) 
which extend over the country from above Northumberland sourhward 
and south-eastward to the range called the Shamokin hills, and also in and 
beyond the valley of Shamokin creek. These rocks are overlaid by a nar- 
row belt of the red shales and sandstones (IX) of the next superior forma- 
tion, extending over the high grounds from the Blue hill at Northumber- 
land eastward to Roaring creek. Another range of this red shale and sand- 
stone is also seen extending from the Susquehanna along the north side of 
the Little mountain to the valley of Roaring creek. The lower beds of 
the olive slate series (VIII) are finely exposed in the cliffs along the east 
side of the river below Sunbury, where some of the strata are sufficiently 
calcareous to be used for burning into lime. In the interstices of this lime- 
stone is found an ore containing sulphuret of lead and silicate of zinc ; but 
it is doubtful whether either its quantity or quahty is sufficient to render 
it an object of much consequence. Other layers of this formation appear 
to be adapted to the manufacture of hydraulic cement, and may be seen 
abundantly along the shore of the river nearly opposite Selinsgrove. 

At Georgetown, (Dalmatia,) on the Susquehanna, in the southern part of 
the county, an axis of elevation brings up a limestone (VI) to the surface ; 
this however extends but a short distance east of the river, being overlaid 
and surmounted by the olive slate (VIII) and the red shales and sandstones 
ClX) which occupy the region between the Line mountain on the north and 
the Mahontongo on the south. In the Line and Little mountains, which 
unite in a bold knob on the Susquehanna above the mouth of the Maha- 
noy creek, we have a hard compact sandstone (X,) which, though it some- 
times contains thin layers of black carbonaceous matter, is yet several 
hundred feet below the true coal measures. Enclosed by these moun- 
tains, and extending along the valley of Mahanoy creek between the Line 
and Mahanoy mountains, and along Little Mahanoy creek between the 
Little and Big mountains, is the red shale (XI) which overlies the sand- 
stone last mentioned ; all these rocks dipping towards the middle of the 
basin and passing beneath the coal. The coarse conglomerate next below 
the coal series appears in the Mahanoy and Big mountains, which unite on 
the west between the Great and Little Mahanoy creeks, enclosing the 
western point of the Shamokin and Mahanoy coal field. 

Mining operations in this region are principally confined to the vicinity 
of the new town of Shamokin, at the eastern termination of the rail road 
from Sunbury, which affords a ready means of transporting the coal to 
the river. Here, in the gap by which Shamokin creek passes through the 
Big mountain, 5 or 6 beds of coal, from 3 to 9 feet thick, have been opened 
on both sides of the creek ; and further up the stream, in the smaller hills 
along its banks, are numerous other beds, a number of which are produc- 



310 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



tively worked. On Coal creek, between one and two miles east of the rail 
road, is an enormous deposit of this valuable article, contained in a bed 
not yet completely exposed, but which appears to be about 60 feet thick. 

Northumberland county is watered by numerous streams. The 
JVorth and West branches of Susquehanna unite at the town of 
Northumberland, and the river thence forms the western boundary. 
Chilisquaque creek empties into the West branch 5 miles above 
Northumberland. Shamokin creek rises among the mountains and 
flows westward to the Susquehanna below Sunbury. The Maha- 
nay, a bold rapid stream, rises in Schuylkill county and has a nearly 
west course to the Susquehanna, near which it receives the wa- 
ters of Little Mahanoy and Schwaben creek. Mahontongo creek 
forms part of the southern boundary of the county, and Roaring 
creek of the eastern. 

Sunhury is the county town, beautifully situated on a level plain 
on the east side of the Susquehanna, above the mouth of Shamo- 
kin creek. It contains a court house, a prison, several churches, 
and about 250 dwellings. Population 1,108. A considerable bu- 
siness is already done here in the shipment of coal, &c., and the 
completion of the rail road to Pottsville would tend to increase the 
prosperity of the town. 




Northumberland. 

JVorthumherland is built upon the point of land between the 
North and West branches of the Susquehanna at their junction. 
It contains a town house, a market house, a bank, an academy, 
and several churches ; the number of its inhabitants is 928. It is 
not a place of extensive business, though favourably situated at 
the junction of the North and West branch divisions of the State 
canal. A beautiful bridge across the West branch connects this 



NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY. 311 

town with Union county; there is another across the North branch 
over which passes the road leading to Sunbury. 

Milton is a flourishing borough on the West branch, 12 miles 
above Northumberland, with a population of 1,508. Being situ- 
ated on the canal, in the midst of a fertile and productive neigh- 
bourhood, and also the seat of some considerable manufacturing 
and mechanical establishments, it is a place of some consequence 
on account of its business operations. It is connected with the 
Union county side of the river by a bridge. 

The principal villages are McEwensville in the north, George- 
town in the south, Shamokin at the coal mines on Shamokin creek, 
and Snydertown east of Sunbury. 

The most important productions are those of agriculture and of 
the coal mines. Various branches of manufacturing industry are 
successfully pursued. A large blast furnace has been recently 
erected at Shamokin for the purpose of smelting iron with anthra- 
cite coal; which is so constructed that the coal is run from the 
mine on a plane to the head of the furnace, but a few yards dis- 
tant. 

The public improvements are the North and West branch canals 
which unite at Northumberland ; and the western portion of the 
Potts ville and Danville rail road, which is completed from Sun- 
bury to the coal mines at the town of Shamokin, 21 miles. 
There is a dam across the Susquehanna below Sunbury, called the 
Shamokin dam, 2783 feet in length, constructed by the State for 
the purpose of supplying water to the Susquehanna division of 
the canal. A turnpike road from Philadelphia, through Reading 
and Potts ville, extends by Sunbury to Northumberland. 

By the assessed valuation of property for the county tax of 1842, 
the total amount was $4,353,130: county tax $9,548: State tax 
$5,611. 

In some portions of this county popular education is much ne- 
glected, and the schools are so conducted as to be of little service in 
promoting the improvement of youth in the elements of useful 
knowledge. There are in all 15 school districts, of which 8 have 
adopted the common school system as regulated by law. Of these 
7 have made report, stating that 53 schools are established, and 
are kept open during an average period of upwards of 5 months 
in the year. There are academies at Milton, Northumberland, and 
Sunbury ; at the latter place is also a flourishing female seminary. 

The religious societies are various : the principal are Presbyte- 
rians, Methodists, Lutherans, German Reformed and Baptists, 
who have in all about 30 places of public worship. 

Many of the inhabitants are descendants of Enghsh and Irish 
families who settled here at an early period. In the southern part 
of the county the population is mostly composed of Germans, who 
continue to speak their own language. 

This is a pleasant region in which to spend the summer months. 
The scenery is highly beautiful, varied and picturesque ; the view 
from the hills around the town of Northumberland embraces more 
pleasing objects than are usually met with in a single prospect. 



312 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Mountains, hills, farms, towns, canals and rivers are blended in 
one wide and harmonious landscape, over which the eye may rove 
for hours and still discover new beauties. As additional attractions 
may be mentioned pure and wholesome water, a cool and refresh- 
ing atmosphere, and a climate remarkable for its salubrity, except 
in the low grounds along the river, where bihous complaints some- 
times occur in the autumnal months. 

What counties lie adjacent to Northumberland ? What is said of the 
face of the country ? Name the various hills and mountains. Give a gene- 
ral description of the geological features of the county. Where does iron 
ore occur, and of what kind ? In what parts of the county is limestone ? 
Where is found an ore containing lead and zinc ? Near what place is coal 
mined ? Describe the coal beds in the neighbourhood. What rivers are 
in this county ? Mention the principal creeks, and where flowing. Name 
the county town and describe its situation. What town is at the junction 
of the North and West branches, and what is said 6f it? Where is Milton, 
and what are its facilities for business ? What villages are noticed ? What 
are the most important productions? Describe the furnace at Shamokin. 
What public improvements are in this county ? What is said of the Sha- 
mokin dam ? What turnpike road ? Give some account of the condition 
of education, — of the schools, academies, &c.? What are the principal 
religious societies? From what people are the inhabitants derived? What 
is said of the scenery and other attractions of this region ? 

' 43. Perry County. 

Perry county has the Susquehanna river on the east, Cumber- 
land county on the south, Franklin on the south-west, and Juniata 
on the north-west. Its population by the census of 1840 was 
17,096. 

The Kittatiny or Blue mountain forms the southern boundary, 
and the Tuscarora the north-western, enclosing the county in the 
form of a triangle, of which the Susquehanna river forms the east- 
ern side. The face of the country between these mountains is 
broken by a number of lesser hills and ridges. 

The geological character of this county will perhaps be best understood 
by considering the several rock formations which it contains in a descend- 
ing order, beginning with the highest. Two synchnal axes or lines of de- 
pression pass across from the troughs of the coal basins on the east of the 
river, rising gradually to the south-west and causing the rocks extending 
around their ends to die out and disappear successively in this direction. 
Thus we find the red shale (XI) which underlies the conglomerate floor of 
the coal fields, extending across the Susquehanna above the town of Dau- 
phin, and occupying a little nook or cove on the west side of the river ; and 
again above Millersburg the same formation, the red shale of Ly kens' val- 
ley, crossing into Perry county and occupying a triangular area enclosed 
by Buffalo mountain. The sandstone (X) next in order below this red 
shale encloses it in Cove mountain, which is the union of Peters* and Se- 
cond mountains; and in the north in Buffalo, which is an extension of Ma- 
hontongo mountain joining wdth Berry's. Outside of these enclosing ridges 
we have red shales and sand-tones (IX) extending for some distance on the 
river, and then uniting at the western points of the mountains and stretch- 
ing for some miles up Sherman's and Buffalo creeks. The next inferior 
series (VIII,) composed chiefly of olive coloured slates with strata of gray 
sandstone, beginning on the Susquehanna near the mouth of Fishing creekj 



PERRY COUNTY. 31^ 

ranges westward, widens out east of Landisburg, and thence sweeps round 
on the north of the red shale and sandstone of Sherman's creek, again 
reaching the Susquehanna above Hahfax. Here it unites with the corre- 
sponding formation of the northern basin, which extends westward on the 
north of Bloomfield to a point on the head waters of Sherman's creek, 
north-east of Moreland church, whence its northern division passes north- 
eastward, crosses the Juniata below Millerstown and reaches the Susque- 
hanna above Liverpool. The exterior limit of the area occupied by ihe last 
mentioned series is generally marked by a range of hills and ridges con- 
taining the coarse fossiliferous sandstone (VII) with the accompanying lime- 
stone (VI) next below in geological position. These extend on the north 
of the Blue mountain as far as Wagner's gap, where they pass northward 
near Landisburg, and then north-eastward by Bloomfield across the Juniata 
on the east. From the neighbourhood of Bloomfield, the northern division 
of these formations passes westward to near Germantown, and there, fold- 
ing back to the north-east, crosses the Juniata near Millerstown, and ex- 
tends by Pfoutz's valley to the Susquehanna. The red and variegated 
shales (V) lying between the last mentioned limestone and the sandstone 
(IV) of the Kittatiny and Tuscarora mountains, are seen in a narrow belt 
along the northern side of the former, until widening out in the neighbour- 
hood of Landisburg, it extends north-eastward nearly to Bloomfield, and 
up Sherman's creek to the foot of Conecocheague ridge, and thence north- 
eastward along the base of Tuscarora mountain to the Juniata, and so on 
towards the Susquehanna. Iron ore is found at several places in various 
parts of the county. 

The soil, where it is not too much broken by stony ridges, is 
mostly productive ; that portion of it which is formed from the 
decomposition of calcareous rocks is highly fertile, and when well 
cultivated produces abundant crops. 

The Susquehanna river flows along the eastern side of the 
county : the Juniata passes through it south-eastward and emp- 
ties into the Susquehanna at Duncan's island. Shermanh creek 
is a considerable stream in the southern part ; Buffalo creek runs 
eastward to the Juniata; Rackoon and Cocalamus creeks fall into 
that river on opposite sides near Millerstown. 

Bloontfield, the seat of justice, is situated towards the eastern 
part of the county, and has upwards of 400 inhabitants. The 
public buildings are those usual in small county towns, namely, 
court house, prison, academy, and several churches. 

Millerstown, on the east side of the Juniata, has a population of 
nearly 400, and JVewport on the opposite side, about five miles 
below, exceeds that number. Liveiyool, on the Susquehanna, 
near the north-eastern corner of Perry, has upwards of 450 inha- 
bitants; and Petersburg in the south-east, at tne junction of Sher- 
man's creek with the Susquehanna, has a little more than 200. 
Beside these the county contains a number of villages, among 
which are Landisburg, Ickesburg, and Buffalo. 

The principal productions are those of agriculture. Iron is 
manufactured to some extent, there being within the county eight 
furnaces, with some forges, rolling mills and nail works. Dun- 
cannon iron works, at the mouth of Sherman's creek, is an exten- 
sive establishment, having a great command of water power, 
which is employed in driving a large rolling mill, nail works, &c. 
There are 24 flour mills and 26 grist mills, whieh manufac- 

27 



314 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

ture flour to a large amount, mostly from the wheat of the 
county. 

Assessed value of property subject to taxation for county pur- 
poses in 1842, $3,226,780: county tax $8,166: State tax $3,854. 

Two lines of the public improvements pass through Perry 
county. The Susquehanna division of the State canal is on the 
west side of the Susquehanna river, and the Juniata division 
branches from it, extending up' the Juniata. The northern turn- 
pike, from Harrisburg to the west, also crosses into this county at 
Duncan's island, and passes up the northern side of the Juniata. 
There are some good common roads, but many of them are rough, 
owing to the nature of the country. 

Popular education has been much neglected in this county, 
though at present the common school system is adopted in all the 
districts, 17 in number. One hundred and eleven schools are es- 
tabUshed ; but being kept open for instruction only during an ave- 
rage period of 3^ months in the year, but little benefit can be 
derived from them. 

The inhabitants are chiefly of German and Irish origin : Ger- 
mans are numerous in some parts of the county, and generally 
speak their own language, though there are few who do not un- 
derstand Enghsh. The religious denominations are various ; — 
Presbyterian, German Reformed, Methodists, &c., who have alto- 
gether about thirty places of pubhc worship. 

How is Perry county bounded ? What are the mountains, and general 
face of the country ? Describe the range of the principal geological tbrma- 
tions ? What is said of the soil? What two rivers are in this county ? 
What other streams ? What is the county town ? Where are Millers- 
town and Newport ? Liverpool ? Petersburg ? Name some of the vil- 
lages. Of what kind are the chief productions ? What is said of the num- 
ber and extent of the iron works, &,c. ? Mention what two divisions of 
the State canal pass through this county, and what turnpike road. What 
is the condition of education and common schools ? From whom are the 
inhabitants mostly descended, and what language besides English is 
spoken ? Name the prevaihng religious societies, and the number of 
places of worship. 

44. Philadelphia City and County. 

Philadelphia county is bounded north-west and north by Mont- 
gomery ; north-east by Bucks ; south-east and south by the river 
Delaware ; and west by Delaware county. Total population, in- 
cluding the city, 258,037, which is distributed among the different 
districts as follows: City proper 93,665; Northern Liberties 
34,474; Spring Garden 27,849; Kensington 22,314; Southwark 
27,548; Moyamensing 14,573; Townships 37,614. 

The face of the country along the Delaware is level ; but at a 
little distance from the river it becomes more hilly and undulating. 
The soil, though not generally of a very fertile nature, has been 
so highly improved by cultivation, as to produce excellent crops 
of grain and grass. Near the city, much of it is occupied by gar- 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 315 

dens for the production of vegetables for market, and by grass lots 
for hay and pasturage. 

The rocks of this county belong to the primary class, and in the southern 
and eastern portions are generally covered by a deep deposit of diluvial 
soil, except where they are exposed along the courses of the streams. The 
prevailing variety of rock is a gray granitic gneiss, v^^hich is quarried in the 
vicinity of Fairmount, at the falls of Schuylkill, and various other places 
in the neighbourhood of the city, supplying a large quantity of stone for 
building and other purposes. Veins of coarse granite frequently occur, in 
which the quartz, feldspar and mica, instead of being intimately blended, 
are found adhering together in irregular masses, forming a rough amor- 
phous rock, which is very subject to decay, from the natural tendency of 
the feldspar to decomposition by atmospheric influence. Some beds of the 
gneiss also exhibit the same disposition to decay from exposure. Occa- 
sional bands of hornblende rock appear among the gneiss ; and proceeding 
northward we find the quantity of mica contained in the rocks to be greatly 
increased, while that of the feldspar is much diminished. From the mouth 
of Wissahiccon to some distance above Manayunk, the prevailing rock is 
mica slate ; beyond which is a belt of magnesian rocks, consisting of stea- 
tite, talc and serpentine, crossing the Schuylkill near the line of Montgo- 
mery county. The steatite or soapstone rock has been quarried to con- 
siderable extent, for the various purposes to which that material is adapted. 
Garnets are abundant in the mica slate along the Wissahiccon, and in the 
neighbourhood of Germantown, where are also staurotide, cyanite, and ac- 
tinolite : beryl, tourmalin and phosphate of lime sometimes occur in the 
gneiss. Foliated oxide of iron is found in the quartz rocks, and octohedral 
crystals of iron in the chlorite slate which accompanies the serpentine. A 
curiously radiated asbestus, and asbestoid actinolite are found on the Wis- 
sahiccon about eight miles from the city. Zeolite and laumonite occur in 
the rocks on the east side of Schuylkill above the Columbia rail road 
bridge, and other interesting minerals in different parts of the county. 

Besides the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, this county is wa- 
tered by several creeks, which afford seats for numerous mills, 
factories, and various other purposes for which water power is 
required. Poquessing or Poqueston creek is the north-eastern 
boundary, separating Philadelphia from Bucks ; below this is 
Pennypack creek, flowing south-eastward from Montgomery 
county, by Bustleton and Holmesburg to the Delaware. Ta- 
cony, or Frankford creek, rises by two branches which unite 
above Frankford and fall into the Delaware at Bridesburg. Wis^ 
sahiccon is a beautiful stream, flowing southward from Montgo- 
mery county, and falling into the Schuylkill about six miles above 
the city. This stream is remarkable for the romantic and pictu- 
resque beauty of the scenery along its high and rocky banks. 

The climate of Philadelphia may in general be justly termed 
healthy and pleasant; being less subject to extremes of tempera- 
ture than many other parts of the State. In summer the thermo- 
meter seldom indicates a greater degree of heat than 95°, and in 
the coldest weather of winter rarely, if ever, falls to ; while in 
the middle and northern counties it is frequently from 10 to 20° 
below this point. Snows are less frequent in winter, and continue 
on the ground for a shorter time, than in those parts of the State 
which are more elevated above the level of tide water. 

Excellent turnpike roads lead from the city in every direction. 



S16 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

and substantial bridges, mostly of stone, are constructed over the 
streams. There are seven bridges across the Schuylkill in Phila- 
delphia county : the rail road bridge at Gray's ferry, below the 
city, one side of which is appropriated to vehicles and foot pas- 
sengers ,• the Permanent bridge at Market street ; the Wire suspen- 
sion bridge at Fairmount; the Columbia rail road bridge, which 
has also a way for carriages and foot passengers ; one at the Falls 
of Schuylkill, five miles above the city ; one at Manayunk ; and 
another a short distance above that town at Flat rock. The Per- 
manent bridge was erected by an incorporated company, and was 
finished in 1805 at a cost of about $300,00.0. It is now open for 
public us€ free from toUs, having been purchased from the com- 
pany a few years since and placed under the care of the city au- 
thorities. The new Wire bridge at Fairmount is much admired 
for the ingenuity of its construction, as well as for its light and 
beautiful appearance. It is also a free bridge, having been erected 
by the county in 1841, at a cost of $55,000. 

The city of Philadelphia, the metropolis of the State, and the largest city 
in the United States except New York, is situated between the Delaware 
and Schuylkill rivers about five miles above their junction. The distance 
between the two rivers on Market street is about two miles ; but as they 
curve towards each other at this place, the distance widens above and be- 
low that street. The extent of the city front on the Delaware, from the 
lower part of Southwark to the upper end of Kensington, is about four and 
a half miles. The city proper, or that part which is incorporated by the 
city charter and under the jurisdiction of the corporation, extends from the 
Delaware on the east to the Schuylkill on the west ; and from Vine street 
on the north to Cedar or South street on the south. The adjoining dis- 
tricts of Southwark, Moyamensing, Northern Liberties, Kensington, Spring 
Garden, &.C., though belonging to the coww^y of Philadelphia, and governed 
by their own separate municipal authorities unconnected with the city, yet, 
being closely built and densely populated, may be considered as forming a 
portion of the city in a general and descriptive view. 

Numerous families of Swedes had settled along the Delaware below the 
mouth of Schuylkill as early as 1642, and their settlements extending up 
the river into Wicacoa, Moyamensing and Passaiung, a log church was 
erected at Wicacoa in 1677, five years before the arrival of the colony 
under William Penn. It appears from old records that about 800 acres of 
ground, partly in what is now the lower portion of the city about the navy 
yard, were granted by the Dutch governor in 1664 to a Swedish family 
named Sven, or Sven-saener, the sons of Sven, — called Swenson or Swan- 
son by the Enghsh ; and this land was in their possession at the time of 
Penn's arrival, who finding it within the hmits of his proposed city, gave 
them in exchange for it a tract on the Schuylkill above Fairmount. 

Soon after his arrival in 1682, Penn held a treaty with the Indians at 
Shackamaxon (Kensington.) under a great elm tree near the bank of the 
river, at which certain grants of land were confirmed, and the most amica- 
ble relations estabhshed between the natives and their newly arrived 
visiters. This tree was long held in veneration, and during the revolution- 
ary war, while Philadelphia was occupied by British troops, a guard was 
placed to preserve it from being felled by the soldiers for fuel. It stood to 
mark the memorable spot until 1810, when it was blown down, and much 
of its wood made into work stands, chairs, cups, and other articles to be 
preserved as relics. Its age, as ascertained by counting its circles of an- 
nual growth, was 283 years, having been 155 years old at the time the 
treaty was held under its branches. A marble monument, with an appro- 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 317 

priate inscription, has since been erected by the Penn Society on the spot 
formerly occupied by this venerable tree, in order to perpetuate its me- 
mory. 

The town was laid out in 1G82; the first Enghsh colonists erecting tem- 
porary huts for their accommodation, and many living in caves excavated 
in the high bank along the river, until the timber and bushes could be 
cleared away and more commodious dwellings erected. WiUiam Penn 
himself did not come over with his first colonists; but landed at Newcastle 
in October 1682, going from thence to Upland, now Chester, to hold the 
first assembly, and thence proceeding with some of his friends in a boat to 
Philadelphia. The spot where he first set foot within the infant city seems 
to have been at the "Blue anchor," one of the first built houses, which 
stood near the mouth of Dock creek, at a place which is now the north- 
west corner of Front and Dock streets. This was for some time the centre 
of business, having a ferry across Dock creek (then of considerable width, 
but now entirely arched over and its place filled up) to Society hill on the 
south ; and another to Windmill island, so named from a windmill having 
been erected there for grinding grain : it was also the place where small 
vessels employed in the primitive traffic usually landed. The first houses 
were chiefly built on Front street from Dock to Race, and on Society hill, 
about Pine and Front streets southward. For several years there was 
scarcely a dwelUng west of Third street, and a Friends' meeting house 
having been erected at or near Centre square, benches were placed under 
the trees in the woods at the corner of Market and Sixth street, that the 
people might rest in the middle of their long walk from the city to the 
meeting house. For a long time the whole space from Eighth street to the 
Schuylkill was covered with forest trees, and after they were cut down it 
remained an open grass common for pasturing cattle. Within the memory 
of persons yet living, there were but few houses west of Sixth street. 

By the close of the year 1682, twenty three ships had arrived with pas- 
sengers, and numbers following in the succeeding year, the population in- 
creased so rapidly that at the departure of Penn for England in 1684, the 
city contained 2,500 inhabitants. Numerous settlements were estabhshed 
in the surrounding country, agriculture and commerce soon began to flou- 
rish, and the tide of emigration from England, Wales, Ireland and Ger- 
many, added greatly to the population of the colony. The city was incor- 
porated by charter from the proprietary, October 25, 1701. The general 
assembly of the province, which had previously met at Upland, held their 
first session at Philadelphia in 1683, in the Friends' meeting house, where 
they continued to meet until the court house at Second and Market streets 
was built and prepared for their reception in 1707. 

The State house, now called Independence hall, was begun in 1729 and 
finished in 1735, on the northern side of the square bounded by Chestnut, 
Walnut, Fifth and Sixth streets. The wings extending from the main 
building to Fifth and Sixth streets are of modern construction. The wood 
work of the steeple by which the building was at first surmounted, was 
found to be so much decayed that about the year 1774 it was taken down, 
leaving only a small belfry to cover the bell for the use of the town clock ; 
and so remained until 1829, when the present steeple was erected on the 
plan of the original one which had been removed. The bell for the first 
steeple was imported from England in 1752, but was broken by accident 
when first hung up. A new one was cast in Philadelphia, under the di- 
rection of Isaac Norris, then speaker of the Colonial assembly, to whom 
we are probably indebted for the remarkable motto inscribed upon it, and 
which at that early day was httle thought to be so singularly prophetic of 
its future use : " Proclaim liberty throughout the land, aiid to all the people 
thereof.^ ^ Twenty-four years afterwards a period arrived " in the course of 
human events," when the memorable Declaration of Independence was 
signed in the building beneath this very bell, and its joyous tones rang loud 
and clear as it proclaimed to anxious thousands that they were now a free 

27* 



318 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



and independent people. The chamber in which the declaration was signed 
is on the tirst tioor, at the eastern end of tlie centre builduig. Some years 
smce the mterior wood work was removed to make room for more modern 
decorations ; but a more patriotic feehng and a better taste than those 
which had dictated this change, soon demanded the restoration of the hall 
to its original simphcity, and it now presents the same appearance as it did 
when the representatives of the people, assembled within it, declared these 
United States to be " free, sovereign and independent." 




State House, Pliiladclphia. 

The spirit of change and improvement has been so busy in Philadelphia 
as to leave us b^t few relics of the olden time to show the character of its 
primitive architecture. One of the oldest buildings now standing, is the 
house occupied by William Penn in 1700, it the south-east corner of Nor- 
ris' alley and Second street. The Swedish church, on Swanson street in 
Southwark, near the navy yard, was built in 1700, on or near the place 
where stood the log church of Wicacoa, erected in 1677. The present 
quaint and antiquated little brick building was considered as a great edifice 
at the time of its erection, and had not its equal in the city. Christ church, 
in Second street above Market, was originally a or ■> story wooden building 
erected in 1695, having its bell hung in a tree grovNuig near it. It was en- 
larged in 1710; and in 1727 the western end. as we now see it, was raised, 
the eastern end not being completed until 1731. 

St. Michael's Lutheran church, in Fifth street above Arch, is a venera- 
ble old edifice erected in 1743, and its centennial anniversary has just been 
celebrated. 

Plan of the city. — The general plan of the city is remarkably uniform 
and regular ; the streets with some few exceptions crossing each other at 
right angles ; those leading from river to river having a direction very nearly 
from east to west, and those which cross them being nearly north and 
south. The carriage wavs are paved with rounded pebbles, bedded in 
gravel, forming a dry and durable, but somewhat rough surface. Paving 
with wooden blocks has been tried as an experiment ; but though pleasing 
to the eye and agreeable to the traveller, these pavements have been found 
to decay so rapidly as to lead to the abandonment of the plan. Chesnut 
street from Fourth to Sixth has been recently paved with square blocks of 
stone, which, though expensive at first, promises to combine the essential 
requisites of smoothness and durability in a greater degree than any other 
mode yet tried. The side walks are universally paved with bricks, except 
in a few instances where a better taste has led to the use of smooth well 
dressed flag stones. The city is drained by common sewers, or arched 
culverts of brick work, constructed under most of the main streets. 

Public Squares. — It is to the wise and liberal foresight of the great founder 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY- 319 

of Pennsylvania that we owe most of the pubhc squares which now orna- 
ment our city. In the original plan, as laid out by Thomas Holmes, 
Penn's surveyor general in 1682, there was to be a public square in the 
centre containing ten acres, and one in each quarter of the city containing 
eight acres. By the same plan it was also intended to leave an open space 
between Front street and the Delaware, and Penn long resisted the appli- 
cations of the inhabitants to build nearer the river. But at last, owing per- 
haps to his pecuniary embarrassments, he unhappily consented to the sale 
of lots on the river bank. ; thus depriving his favourite city of a healthful 
and open area along the wharves for the landing of merchandise and the 
transaction of business ; as well as destroying the symmetry of the city 
front, and creating a crowded, dark and unsightly mass of buildings which 
makes an unfavourable impression upon the mind of every stranger enter- 
ing in that direction. 

It was intended by the proprietor that the pubhc buildings should be 
erected on the centre square at Market and Broad streets ; but its great 
distance from the then closely built part of the city probably led to the 
purchase of the square between Chestnut, Walnut, Fifth and Sixth streets, 
since called Independence square. The northern part of this lot was first 
purchased, and the State house erected in 1735 ; in 1760 the southern part, 
fronting on Walnut street, was purchased, and the whole square surrounded 
by a brick wall, which was afterwards removed to give place to the pre- 
sent more graceful iron palisade. Though this is the general place of 
meeting for civic and pohtical assemblages when they are to be harangued 
on such a great scale that no house or hall will hold ihem, and also the re- 
sort of prodigious crowds on the day of the general elections ; yet much to 
the credit of the population at these periods of excitement, no injury is of- 
fered to the trees and other ornaments of the place, which always presents 
the same neat and orderly aspect. 

Washington square, on Sixth street between Walnut and Locust, was 
lor many years used as a public burial ground for the poor and for strangers, 
under the name of the Potters' field. About the year 1795, the extension 
of improvements and buildings into this quarter induced the city authorities 
to close it against future interments. Its improvement as a public square 
commenced in 1815, when a variety of trees were planted, gravel walks 
laid out, and other steps taken which have led to its present attractive ap- 
pearance. It is intended to erect, in the centre of this square, a monument 
to the memory of Washington ; the corner stone having been laid with due 
ceremony at the celebration of his birth day, on the 22d of February, 1833. 

Franklin square is on Sixth street between Race and Vine, being also 
laid out with gravel walks and planted with trees, affording a public pro- 
menade equally agreeable with Washington square. A magnificent foun- 
tain, surrounded by a marble basin, has been constructed in the centre, 
supplied with water from the works at Fairmount. 

Logan square, nai.ied after James Logan, the friend and secretary of 
WiUiam Penn, arid Rittenhouse square, after David Rittenhouse, the phi- 
losopher and statesman, are both on Schuylkill Fifth street ; the former 
between Race and Vine, and the latter between Walnut and Locust. They 
are both enclosed .and planted with trees, and promise in a few years to 
present an appearance similar to Washington and Franklin squares, afford- 
ing to the inhabitants of the western part of the city, cool and shady walks 
of equal attraction to those now enjoyed in the eastern squares. 

Penn square, at the intersection of Market and Broad streets, was, 
within the recollection of many now li' ' ig, not a square but a circle, having 
the street passing round it and enclosing the distributing reservoir of the 
city water works. On the construction of the reservoir at Fairmount, the 
old marble ^ uilding in Centre square was taken down, and Market and 
Broad streets were opened directly through the square, dividing it into four 
distinct enclosures, the pubhc benefit of which seems to be tnus far con- 
fined to the production of tolerable crops of grass. 



320 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



Buildinsrs. — The dwellings are mostly built of brick ; the general style 
of the architecture being plain and neat, rather than showy and ornamental. 
White marble is generally used for door steps, window sills, &c., and 
many of the modern buildings have the basement story faced in front with 
this material. A number of the public buildings present an enure exterior 
of marble, from the quarries of Montgomery and Chester counties; the 
abundant supply which they yield having added greatly to the architectural 
embellishment of the city. Of the many splendid marble edifices with 
which Philadelphia is adorned, the most conspicuous for their size and the 
beauty of their architectural design are the Girard college, the United 
States and Pennsylvania banking houses, the Merchants' Exchange, the 
United States' mint, the Marine hospital or Naval asylum, and some others. 




Girard College. 

The Girard college occupies a commanding position on high ground 
about a mile north-west of the incorporated limits of the city. I'he lot 
on which it stands contains about forty five acres, and was bequeathed for 
this purpose by the founder of the institution. The college buildings con- 
sist of a centre edifice which is to be exclusively devoted to the purposes 
of education, and four other buildings, two on each side, for the residence 
and accommodation of professors, teachers, and scholars. The centre 
building, which forms the most conspicuous object, and at once rivets the 
attention of the beholder by its immense proportions, its beautiful columrhs 
and gorgeous capitals, is two hundred and eighteen feet in length from 
north to south, one hundred and sixty feet in breadth from east to west, 
and ninety-seven feet in height. It is surrounded by thirty-four columns, 
supporting an entablature after the manner of a Grecian temple. Each 
coWmn, including its capital and base, is fifty-five feet high and six feet in 
diameter, having a base three feet high and nine feet in diameter, and 
leaving a space of fifteen feet between the columns and the body of the 
build g. At each end is a door of entrance sixteen feet wide and thirty 
two feet high, decorated with massive architraves surmounted by a sculp- 
tured cornice. Each of these doors opens into a vestibule 26 feet wide and 
48 feet long, the ceiling of which is supported by eight marble columns and 
eight antae of the Ionic order. In the second story, over these vestibules, 
are lobbies of similar dimensions, having their ceilings supported by Co- 
rinthian columns. In each corner of the building are marble stairways, 
lighted from the roof. On each floor are four rooms of 50 feet square ; the 
ceilings of those on the first and second stories being groin arched, and 
those on the third vaulted, with a central sky-light so formed as not to pro- 
trude above the roof The roof, floors and stairways, are constructed of 
marble, no wood being used except for doors. The building is warmed by 
means of furnaces built in the cellar, and has flues for ventilation con- 
structed in the interior walls. 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 321 

The remaining four buildings, situated two on each side of the main 
building, are each 52 feet wide by 125 feet long, and two stories high above 
the basement. The most eastern of these, intended for the use of the pro- 
fessors, is so constructed as to accommodate four distinct families with ail 
the conveniences of private dwellings. The other three buildings are de- 
signed for the residence and accommodation of the pupils. 

The United States' Bank, is one of the most chaste specimens of Grecian 
architecture in this country. It is an imitation of the Parthenon, a temple 
of the Doric order at Athens, with the omission of the colonnades on the 
sides and some other decorations. The platform on which the building is 
erected is 87 feet in front by 161 feet deep, having marble steps ascending 
to the portico. Eight columns, four feet six inches in diameter, support a 
plain entablature and pediment. The large banking room in the centre of 
the building is 81 feet long and 48 feet wide, richly ornamented with fluted 
Ionic columns, and sculptured embellishments. Adjoining this are several 
smaller apartments used for various purposes ; the whole interior arrange- 
ment of the building being admirably adapted to the business for which it 
was designed. This edifice was commenced in 1819, and finished in 1821, 
at a cost of about $500,000. 



United States' Bank. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania is a beautiful edifice of white marble, designed 
from a Greek temple near Athens, and is one of the purest specimens of 
Grecian architecture to be met with in the United States. It has a portico 
on each front, with six Ionic columns, supporting an entablature and pedi- 
ment ; the entire building being 125 feet long and 51 feet wide. The en- 
closure in which it stands is tastefully ornamented with plants and shrub- 
bery, and surrounded by an iron railing. 

The Girard Bank has a marble front, enriched by a portico and six Co- 
rinthian columns ; the sides and back of the building being composed of 
red brick walls, which offer a strange contrast with the Grecian style of 
its front. 

Several of the other banking houses are handsome and spacious build- 
ings, but erected in a plainer style of architecture than those already men- 
tioned. 

The Merchants' Exchange is a noble edifice erected on the triangular 
space between Third, Walnut and Dock streets, and constituting the cen- 
tral point of commercial and financial business transactions. The eastern 
fagade. fronting on Dock street, presents a sirnicircular piazza supported by 
Corinthian pillars, standing upon a basement about 12 feet high, being 
richly ornamented with sculpture, and producing a beautiful and imposing 
effect. 

Some of the other prominent buildings in the city and adjoining districts 
will be described in our notice of the institutions to which they belong, or 
of the objects for which they were erected. 



322 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 




Merchants' Exchange. 

IVdfer works. — Before the erection of the works at Fairmount, the city 
was supphed with water from the Schuylkill by means of two steam en- 
gines, one on Chestnut street near the river, and the other at the intersec- 
tion of Broad and Market streets. By the first the water was forced into 
a tunnel extending along Chestnut and Broad streets to the engine at Cen- 
tre, now called Penn square, where it was elevated by the second engine 
into a reservoir 36 feet high, and thence conveyed in wooden pipes through 
the city. This arrangement being found to be totally inadequate to the 
supply required, after a cost of $657,398 from its commencement in 1799, 
was finally abandoned in 1815. In 1812 the construction of steam works 
at Fairmount was commenced, and in 1815 was so far completed as to be 
put in operation. But it soon became apparent that the small and expensive 
supply thus obtained would not meet the demand of a great and growing 
city, and that some other system must be adopted better calculated to se- 
cure the great objects of economy and abundance. Accordingly, in 1818, 
after expending $320,699 in the erection and support of these works, the 
city councils, in compliance with a recommendation of the watering com- 
mittee, authorized the erection of the dam and water works now in opera- 
tion ; the first wheel was put in motion July 1, 1822, and on the 25lh of 
October the steam w^orks were stopped. 




Fairmount. 



The city and adjoining districts are now abundantly supphed with excellent 
water by means of these hydraulic works, which are situated on the east side 
of the Schuylkill above the city. The mount is an oval shaped eminence, 
and on its top, which is 102 feet above the water in the river, and upwards 
of 50 feet above the highest ground in the city, are four reservoirs contain- 
ing together about 22,000,000 of gallons. These reservoirs are enclosed by 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 323 

a paling, and surrounded by a gravel walk, having a flight of steps ascend- 
ing to it on the west, and being attained by several sloping ascents on the 
east. The requisite power for propelhng the machinery is obtained by 
means of a dam 1600 feet in length, thrown across the river, from which a 
race upwards of 400 feet long and 90 feet wide, excavated from the solid 
rock, conveys the water to the forebays in front of the whe^els. The mill 
house is of stone, 238 feet lon^ and 56 feet wide, being calculated for eight 
water wheels each 15 feet in length and from 14 to 18 feet in diameter. 
These wheels have iron shafts weighing about five tons each, dnd in most 
of them the arms and rims are also of iron. To each shaft is affixed a 
crank, working a double forcing pump by which the water is raised into 
the reservoirs. The pumps have a diameter of 16 inches with a stroke of 
five feet, making from 12 to 13 strokes in a minute ; each pump raising 
about a million and a quarter of gallons in 24 hours, and being connected 
with an iron main 16 inches in diameter, which passes across the bottom of 
the race and up the side of the mount into the reservoir, 92 feet above the 
level of the dam. The reservoirs cover an area of upwards of six acres ; 
they are twelve feet deep, hned with stone and paved with bricks laid upon 
a bed of clay in strong lime cement, and made water-tight. The water is 
conveyed from them into the city by two iron mains, one of 20 and the 
other 22 inches in diameter ; from which branches from 6 to 10 inches ia 
diameter are laid through the principal streets, and from these smaller ones 
into the other streets and alleys. From the main pipes the water is con- 
veyed into the yards and dwellings by small lead or iron pipes. Fire plugs 
are placed in the streets at convenient distances, to which, on the breakiiig 
out of a fire, leathern hose may be attached, by means of which water is 
supplied to t!ie engines or carried into any accessible part of the burning 
building. These fire plugs also furnish copious streams of water witE 
which the streets are washed almost daily during the warm season. Be- 
neath the pavements are numerous cisterns supplied with water from the 
main pipes, having pumps inserted for pubhc use. 

The consumption of water in the city and districts, during the year 1842, 
amounted to an average daily supply of 4,297,480 gallons, distributed to 
25,816 tenants, and equal to 167 gallons daily for each tenant. 

The length of iron pipes laid in the city at the close of 1842 was 64^ 
miles, and in the districts 51 miles, making a total of 115 miles. The num- 
ber of fire plugs in the city is 524, and in the districts 531 : total 1055. 

The cost of erecting the present works in 1822, with the additions of per- 
manent work annually made (not including repairs to the dam) up to the 
end of the year 1842, amounts to about §1,500,000. In 1818 the expense 
of working one steam engine and pump for one year was $30,858 ; and 
with this expenditure not more than 1,600,000 gallons could be raised in 
24 hours. At this rate the expense of supplying the city by steam power, 
wdth the same quantity of water now used, would be $227 per day ; while 
the present expense of the water power, for attendants' wages, oil, fuel, 
&LC., is about S7 per day. 

Gas Works^. — The principal streets, most of the stores, hotels, churches, 
public institutions, and many of the private dwellings are lighted with gas. 
supplied from the City gas works on the Schuylkill, between Market and 
Filbert streets. These works, originally constructed by a company, but 
now owned by the city, consist of a retort house capable of containing 120 
retorts with all their connexions with the refrigerating and purifying appa- 
ratus; three large station meters for measuring the gas as it is manufactured ; 
suitable workshops, offices, laboratory, &c. On the eastern part of the 
lot are eight gasometers of fifty feet each in diameter, capable of containing 
altogether 280,000 cubic feet of gas. From these the gas is distributed 
throughout the city by means of iron pipes laid under ground along the 
streets, in the same manner as the Schuylkill water is conducted, with 
small pipes to lead the gas from the street mains into the houses and to the 
public lamps. The total length of street mains in 1842 was 35^ miles. 



324 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The demand for gas is steadily increasing, and its use rapidly extending 
throughout the city. The quantity supplied during the year 1842 was 
50,811,000 cubic feet, which was produced from 187,147 bushels of coal 
and 500 barrels of rosin. The fuel used consisted of 54,536 bushels of 
coke, which is a residuum left in the retorts after the gas has been expelled 
from the coal, and is produced in such quantity as not only to supply all 
the fuel used for heating the retorts, but also a large surplus for sale. The 
number of private lights in use in 1842 was 27,240, and 778 street lamps 
supplied with gas, besides those in the market-houses and pubhc squares. 

Gas works have also been constructed in the Northern Liberties by a 
company for the purpose of supplying that district, Kensington, &c. Their 
structure and management are similar to those in the city. 

Provisions, fuel, ^c. — There is, perhaps, no city in the world which ex- 
ceeds Philadelphia in the abundance, excellence, and cheapness of the pro- 
visions furnished by its markets. Butchers' meat in all its variety, and 
poultry of various kinds are plentiful at all seasons of the year ; fresh, fish 
is obtained from the neighbouring rivers, and sea fish brought from the 
ocean preserved in ice- Fresh butter is brought in daily by the farmers ; 
milk and cream by the milkmen in the vicinity of the city; and the fruit 
and vegetables supplied by the orchards and gardens of the neighbouring 
parts of our own State and of New Jersey, are not surpEissed in variety and 
goodness by those of any other market in the country. 

Fuel is an important item in the necessary supplies of a large city, and in 
this respect Philadelphia is eminently fortunate. The rivers which wash 
this city on both sides flow from mountains containing inexhaustible stores 
of anthracite coal, and the canals and rail roads which have been constructed 
along their banks furnish a cheap and easy means of transportation to the 
city, not only for its own supply, but for shipment to other places less fa- 
vourably situated for obtaining this now almost indispensable article of use. 
The consumption of wood is still considerable, its price having been much 
reduced since the general introduction of coal as a fuel. The wood sold on 
our wharves is chiefly brought up the river from the lower parts of New 
Jersey and Delaware. 

Resources, trade, (^c— While thus bountifully supplied with all the ne- 
cessaries of life, Philadelphia is not deficient in those articles of luxury, or- 
nament and taste in which the wealthier portion of the population of large 
cities usually indulge. Her extensive domestic and foreign trade, her nu- 
merous manufactories, the extension of her buildings and other improve- 
ments, while they employ the capital and enterprise of the merchant, the 
manufacturer and the proprietor, create such a demand for labour as to 
ensure employment to the working classes at such wages as afford them, 
by the practice of a temperate and prudent economy, not only a decent 
subsistence, but the means of ameliorating their condition and increasing 
their fortimes. 

The prosperity of this city is perhaps mainly owmg to the advantages of 
a situation which has afforded it such abundant resources of trade, and em- 
ployment for the enterprise and industry of its inhabitants. Surrounded by 
a fertile, well cultivated, and populous country, in which the productions 
of agriculture, manufactures and the mechanic arts are constantly and 
steadily increasing ; — near the confluence of two rivers whose navigation 
has been improved by public and corporate enterprise ; — <he point to which 
important rail roads tend from every direction, facilitating communication 
and the desirable interchange of the varied productions of our widely ex- 
tended country, — Philadelphia must continue to advance in business, popu- 
lation and wealth. The Schuylkill river rises in a region abounding in 
mineral treasures, and flows thence through one of the richest agricultural 
districts of the State, bearing their united products to the western front of 
the city ; while the Delaware forms the natural outlet for another extensive 
region, rich in the productions of the mine, the forest and the field, which 
are floated on its waters to the eastern wharves of this great receptacle and 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 325 

market for internal produce. From the city to the ocean, the Delaware 
expands its ample bosom, bearing merchant vessels of the largest class, 
which carry our produce to other states and to distant climes, bringing us 
in return such of their productions and merchandise as we require for the 
supply of our wants of necessity, convenience or luxury. 

For an account of the trade, commerce and shipping of the port of Phila- 
delphia, the reader is referred to the general article on that subject at 
page 129. 

manufactures. — Philadelphia is distinguished for the variety, extent and 
excellence of her manufactures. The thousands of fabrics which are pro- 
duced from her numerous factories and workshops by the skill and enter- 
prise of her manufacturers and artisans, supply almost every article which 
can minister to the necessities, conveniences and comforts of civilized man; 
and the improvements introduced by the application of scientific principles, 
happily reduced to mechanical practice by many of our inteUigent master 
workmen and machinists, have given to the mechanic arts of this city a 
character of eminence and excellence not surpassed by those of any other 
city in the United States. 

The increase in the quantity and value of the various articles manufac- 
tured from iron, as well as the improvement in their quality and mode of 
production, has for the last few years been exceedingly rapid : and the 
multiplication of foundries and work-shops in this extensive and important 
branch of manufacturing industry, has kept pace with the increasing demand 
consequent upon the cheapness and excellence of the articles produced. 
Our numerous and extensive establishments for the manufacture of steam 
engines and machinery are surpassed by none in the world for the excel- 
lence of their workmanship, and the beauty, strength and effect of the 
mighty auxiharies thus added by human science and skill to the power and 
industry of man. So eminent is the character of our locomotive steam en- 
gines, that they are not only sent to most parts of the United States where 
rail roads have been constructed, but when the traveller in Russia, Austria, 
and even in England, examines with admiration the locomotive engine 
which has drawn him with extraordinary velocity and safety over the rail 
roads of those distant countries, he finds the word Philadelphia engraved 
upon its side. The value of machinery annually manufactured in Phila- 
delphia is estimated, by the census returns of 1840, at nearly $1,100,000, 
which is probably, hke many of the other census statements, much below 
the real amount. The manufactures of hardware and cutlery, according 
to the same authority, amount annually to $217,445 : of the precious me- 
tals to $2,651,510 ; of other metals to $876,000. 

There are twenty-nine woollen factories, whose annual product is esti- 
mated at $964,450; and forty-five cotton factories producing annually 
goods worth $3,157,119; in addition to these are manufactured mixed 
goods to the yearly amount of $857,820, and 1912 pounds of silk. 

The manufactTxre of hats and caps, straw bonnets, leather, saddlery and 
harness, boots and shoes, tobacco, soap and candles, glass, drugs and me- 
dicines, earthenware, furniture, &c., employs a large amount of capital 
and labour. The products of twelve sugar refineries and a number of es- 
tablishments for making confectionery amount to more than a million of 
dollars annually ; the quantity of distilled and fermented liquors to nearly 
twelve millions of gallons ; and the value of carriages and wagons made in 
a year to about $300,000. Paper and manufactures from paper are pro- 
duced in considerable extent and variety. Books are manufactured to a 
large amount in the numerous printing offices and binderies ; there are 12 
daily newspapers, 22 weekly, several semi and tri-weekly papers, besides 
a number of other periodical publications. 

To supply the increasing demand for architectural and ornamental pur- 
poses, there are many extensive marble and stone cutting establishments, 
producing work of superior finish and excellence. The neighbourhood of 
the city abounds in brick clay of the finest quaUty, from which our nume- 

28 



326 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

rous brick yards furnish an abundant supply of bricks of the most beautiful 
and durable character. The number of houses annually erected is about 
one thousand, at an aggregate cost of upwards of $3,000,000. 

The building of ships and vessels is carried on in a style creditable to the 
naval architecture of rhiladelphia ; and there are numerous rope walks for 
the manufacture of cordage. The United States' navy yard, in the lower 
part of the city, extends from Front street to the Delaware, being sur- 
rounded by a brick wall enclosing an area of about twelve acres. It con- 
tains a number of neat buildings for the accommodation of the officers and 
marines, work-shops, sheds for storing timber and other necessary supplies 
for the use of the navy. There are also two immense frame buildings in 
which ships are built under cover ; one being of sufficient size to contain a 
vessel of the largest class, the great ship Pennsylvania having been con» 
structed in it ; the other is used for the building of frigates and smaller ves- 
sels. The large ship house is 273 feet long, 104 feet wide, and 84 feet 
high. 

The operations of the United States' mint are carried on in a handsome 
marble edifice, erected for the purpose, in Chestnut near Broad street. The 
exterior architecture of the building is of the Ionic order, and its interior ar- 
rangement is admirably adapted to the various processes of preparing the 
metal and stamping the coins. The whole machinery requisite for the va- 
rious operations of coining is driven by steam power, and is of the most in- 
genious and perfect construction. 

Banhs and Instirance companies. — There are fourteen banks in operation 
within the city and county, with an aggregate capital of nearly $12,000,000; 
besides a number of saving fund societies, savings' institutions, and loan 
companies. The marine, fire, life and other insurance companies are up- 
wards of twenty in number, with a total capital of about $6,000,000. 

Fire department. — No city in the Union is more efficiently protected 
from the ravages of fire than Philadelphia. There are about sixty inde- 
pendent engine and hose companies, composed principally of active young 
men, and owning fire apparatus of the most excellent and effective charac- 
ter. Many of the hose carriages are beautifully constructed and tastefully 
ornamented ; and most of the engines are built with great attention to ele- 
gance of appearance, as well as to their power and eflfect. The expense of 
maintaining the fire apparatus is borne by the companies, aided by appro- 
priations from the city and district treasuries. 

Municipal government. — In the city proper, the executive authority is 
vested in the mayor, who is elected annually by the citizens. He is in- 
vested with magisterial powers, and acts as head of the police department, 
having the appointment of the high constables, police officers, watchmen, 
&c. The legislative power is exercised by a select council of twelve mem- 
bers, four of whom are elected every year; and a common council of 
twenty members, elected annually. By these councils the necessary ordi- 
nances are passed for the government, regulation and general welfare of 
the city. One alderman is elected in each of the fifteen wards into which 
the city is divided. 

The adjoining incorporated districts are governed by their own separate 
municipal authorities, distinct from the city proper. The district of the 
Northern Liberties has a mayor and a board of commissioners ; Kensing- 
ton, Spring Garden, Southwark and Moyamensing have their respective 
boards of commissioners who have the general regulation of affairs pertain- 
ing to the district in which they are elected. The county courts have ju- 
risdiction of cases in both city and county. The sheriff, coroner, county 
commissioners, auditor and other county officers are elected by the joint 
votes of the citizens of the city and county. 

Finances and taxation. — The expenditures authorized by the corporate 
authorities of the city and of the several adjoining districts, are defrayed by 
a tax levied in each, and paid into the respective city and district treasuries. 
This is separate and distinct from the general county tax, which is as* 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY- 327 

sessed upon property and persons in city, districts and townships, according 
to the returns of valuation, and paid into the common treasury of the 
county. The assessed valuation of property subject to county taxation in 
the city and the several districts for 1843, with the amount of county and 
State tax levied upon each, is as follows : 

Ass'd. valuation. County tax. State tax. 

City . . 58,688,499 294,784 50 180,383 95 

N. Liberties . 9,224,409 47,923 78 24,639 22 

Spring Garden 8,862,404 46,133 59 22,384 44 

Kensington . . 4,023,668 20,144 64 8,261 99 

Southwark . 5,578,619 29,168 44 12,944 54 

Moyamensing . 2,330,341 12,257 15 5,221 78 

Townships . 10,613,941 64,240 37 31,928 56 

Total, $99,321,881 $514,652 47 $285,764 28 

Prisons. — The Eastern penitentiary, the exterior architecture of which 
in its towers, battlements and massy walls, resembles some huge, baronial, 
castellated fortress of the middle ages, is shuated on Coates street, east of 
Fairmount and south of the Girard college. It occupies a square area of 
about ten acres, which is enclosed by a wall thirty feet high, surmounted at 
the angles and on each side of the front entrance by watch towers, which 
from their height and position command a view of the inside and outside 
of the external walls. Over the outside gate of entrance is a massive 
wrought iron grating or portcuUis, affording light to the space between the 
outer and inner gate, which are a sufficient distance apart to allow a team 
and wagon to stand while the outside gate is secured previously to opening 
the inner one. On each side of the entrance are apartments for the ward- 
ens, keepers, apothecary, domestics, &c., of suitable dimensions and con- 
veniently arranged. All the windows in the front building are constructed 
with iron gratings ; the doors have bolts and locks of the most improved 
plan, and every other precaution is adopted which can contribute to se- 
curity. 

In the centre of the whole enclosure is an observatory or watch-house, 
from which long passages or corridors radiate in different directions. On 
each side of these corridors the cells are situated, so that a watchman in 
the centre observatory commands from that point a view of all the passages 
and of the entrance to each of the cells. The cells are 12 feet long, 8 ^et 
wide and 10 feet high, having thick partition walls between them, and 
floored with long curb stones, 10 inches thick, that extend across the whole 
width of the cell and terminate under the partition walls, thereby, prevent- 
ing escape by excavation. A hollow cone of cast iron is fixed in the solid 
masonry of the ceiling, at the apex of which is hung, for the admittance of 
light and ventilation, a convex glass eight inches in diameter, which may 
be opened and shut at pleasure, but is not attednable by the prisoner as a 
means of escape or conversation with others. Each cell contains a bed, so 
contrived as to be raised with its bedding out of the way, and fastened 
against the wall during the day time. Food is conveyed to the prisoner 
by means of a cast iron drawer, which also forms a table on the inside, 
from which the prisoner eats his meals. The cells are warmed by heated 
air conducted to each from furnaces at the ends of the passages. 

From a capacious reservoir beneath the watch-house in the centre of the 
prison, water is conveyed in iron pipes eight inches in diameter under each 
of the corridors, to which other pipes are connected, four inches in diame- 
ter, leading into each cell, about 16 inches above the floor, and so regulated 
that the water is kept at a height within six inches of the seat placed over 
them in the cell. These pipes being kept full of water, the prisoners are 
prevented from speaking through them to each other, and all offensive 
smell avoided. The water is let off by sluice gates as often as is neces. 



328 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

sary, and the pipes thus cleansed from all filth ; the gates being stopped, 
the pipes are again instantaneously filled with a fresh supply from the re- 
servoir. To each cell, in the lower story of the ranges, is attached a yard 
for exercise, eighteen feet by eight, surrounded by walls about twelve feet 
high, which are also overlooked from the observatory in the centre of the 
prison. The passage from each cell into its yard is secured by double 
doors ; one a grate of wrought iron, and the other strongly framed of wood, 
both having fastenings of the most approved construction. The wooden 
door is kept open in summer, or when occasion may require, for the free 
passage of air into the cell ; the iron grated one securing the prisoner. 

On the arrival of a convict he is placed in a cell and left alone, without 
employment, books, or any thing which may serve to divert his mind from 
its meduations on the guilty past, the hopeless present, and the gloomy future. 
Overcome by these reflections, but few hours usually elapse before he asks 
for something to do, or for a book. If he has a trade that can be pursued in his 
cell, he is alfowed to work at it as a favour, if he has none, or one that can- 
not be pursued in his cell, he is permitted to choose one that can be carried on 
there, and is instructed by one of the overseers. As a reward for good 
behaviour, a Bible and some other religious and moral books are also given 
him ; employment for both body and mind being granted as a favour and 
withheld as a punishment. A suitable person is employed to have the care 
of the moral and religious instruction of the convicts ; and when they are 
addressed in general, the preacher stands near the centre of the corridor on 
■which the ranges of cells are situated, so that each prisoner can hear, in fhe 
solitude of his own cell, the rehgious truths and moral precepts uttered for 
his edification and instruction. 

The County prison, on Passyunk road below Federal street, is appro- 
priated to the confinement of persons accused of crimes previous to trial, 
and of those who arc convicted and sentenced to short periods of imprison- 
ment. The front of this spacious building presents a noble and imposing 
specimen of Gothic architecture, and its whole plan and arrangement are 
admirably adapted to the purpose for which it was erected, — that of soU- 
tary confinement. From the ends of the front edifice two extensive halls 
run back at right angles with it, containing three tiers of cells on each side; 
the two upper tiers being approached by means of corridors or galleries, 
extending the entire length of the halls, which are lighted from the roof. 
Tihe celts are constructed Uke those in the Eastern penhentiary, ex- 
cept that they are lighted by apertures in the side walls instead of the 
ceiling. . 

The Debtors' prison, adjoining the county prison on the north, is an ob- 
ject of attention from the singular style of architecture displayed on its front, 
which is of red sandstone. The portal consists of two Egyptian columns, 
supporting a pediment of corresponding style and dimensions ; and th» 
whole front is of a similar massive Egyptian character. 

The House of Refuge is at the corner of Coates street and the Ridge 
road, not far from the Penitentiary. It is appropriated to the confinement 
of vicious and abandoned juvenile offenders, of both sexes ; where, in addi- 
tion to their moral culture, they are taught the various elementary branches 
of an English education, and are employed in a variety of mechanical and 
useful occupations. At the expiration of their terms of confinement, the 
boys are apprenticed to respectable mechanics or farmers, and the girls to 
families, where they perform the customary duties of domestics. The es- 
tablishment is supported by annual appropriations from the State and 
county, by funds received from the association, and by individual bequests 
and donations. The law authorises the reception of offenders from all parts 
of the State ; boys under the age of twenty-one, and girls under eighteen. 

Almshouse. — The Philadelphia Almshouse, on the west side of Schuyl- 
kill opposite Cedar street, is an extensive establishment erected for the re- 
lief and employment of the destitute poor. Its benefits are confined to the 
poor of the city and of the districts of Southwark, Northern Liberties, 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 



329 



Kensington, Spring Garden and Penn township; the other districts of the 
county having their own separate almshouses, or other modes of providing 
for their poor. 




Philadelphia Almshouse. 

The Almshouse edifice is an immense structure, consisting of four main 
buildings arranged in the form of a parallelogram, covering and enclosing 
an area of ten acres of ground. The front building, which faces the Schuyl- 
kill, presents a very creditable specimen of architecture, having a hand- 
some portico with eight massive pillars thirty feet high ; and the site being 
considerably elevated above the sloping bank of the river, commands an 
extensive view of the city and the adjacent country. The interior arrange- 
ments of the building are on a scale of corresponding magnitude and extent 
with its exterior appearance and the great number of inmates which it is 
designed to accommodate. In addition to its uses as a mere almshouse, it 
is also a house of employment, and contains extensive workshops, with a 
steam engine which propels machinery for manufacturing purposes. 

As a home for the destitute, provided with every necessary convenience 
for the comfort and accommodation of those whom misfortune, improvi- 
dence or intemperance may have driven to seek shelter within its walls, it 
is not surprising that the ample provisions of the Almshouse should be 
shared by so many of those indigent and miserable victims of poverty to be 
found among the crowded population of the city and its suburbs. The 
average number of paupers maintained in the establishment during the year 
ending May J 6, 1842, was 1546, of whom 750 were men, 639 women, and 
157 children. The number is always greatly augmented on the approach 
of winter, and diminished on the return of spring : in January there were 
in the house 1871 paupers, and in May but 1347. The institution is go- 
verned by a board of guardians consisting of 12 persons, of whom six are 
elected by the City councils, two by the Commissioners of Northern Li- 
berties, two by those of Southwark, one by those of Kensington, and one 
by those of Spring Garden for that district and Penn township. The 
amount of poor tax assessed for the year 1842, was as follows : 

City of Philadelphia, $120,971 41 

Northern Liberties, - 23,376 48 

Southwark, 11,167 58 

Kensington, 8,723 99 

Spring Garden and Penn township, - 19,854 70 

Total, $184,094 16 

Charitable Institutions. — The Pennsylvania Hospital was founded in 

1752, chiefly by the exertions of Drs. Franklin and Bond, through whose 

influence pubhc grants and individual donations were made to an amount 

sufficient to establish the institution. Its funds have since been so much 

28* 



330 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

increased by permanent bequests, and other means, as to enable it greatly 
to extend the sphere of its usefulness. The buildings, grounds and gar- 
den occupy the entire square bounded by Eighth, Ninth, Spruce and Pine 
streets. The principal front is on Pine street, having a handsome open 
area, in which stands a bronzed statue of William Penn. Its spacious 
buildings afford accommodations for indigent patients, as well as those who 
pay ; and any one injured by an accident is always received without charge, 
if brought within 24 hours after its occurrence. There is a fine anatomical 
museum, and a very extensive library of books, chiefly on subjects appro- 
priate to the institution. In the rear of the lot, fronting on Spruce street, 
is a building erected for the exhibition of West's celebrated picture of 
Christ heahng the sick, which was presented to the Hospital by that dis- 
tinguished artist. 

The Insane Asylum, a branch of the Pennsylvania Hospital, for the re- 
ception and cure of insane patients, has been recently erected between the 
West Chester and Haverford roads, about two miles west of the Schuyl- 
kill. The farm contains one hundred and eleven acres, of which forty-one 
are enclosed by a substantial wall, as a garden and pleasure ground for the 
patients. The centre building and main wings present a front of 436 feet, 
having a basement and two principal stories : the wholo edifice containing 
204 rooms suitable for the accommodations of patients and their attendants. 
The entire plan of construction and arrangement is on the most judicious 
and liberal scale, and specially adapted to the benevolent purposes of the 
institution. 

The U. S. Marine Hospital, or Naval Asylum, was originally projected 
by the officers of the Navy, who, with the common sailors, have for many 
years contributed a portion of their pay as a fund for the erection and sup- 
port of the establishment, which is intended as an asylum for invalid sea- 
men and officers disabled in the service. The building is situated on the 
Gray's Ferry road, below Cedar street, and presents a white marble front 
of 386 feet, embellished by a portico with eight Ionic columns, having on 
each side balconies resting upon iron pillars ; the whole forming a fagade 
of great beauty. This edifice is of sufficient capacity to lodge about 400 
persons, and is partly occupied as a Naval school. 

The Pennsylvania Institution for the Deaf and Dumb is at the corner of 
Broad and Pine streets, having extensive buildings adapted to the purposes 
of the establishment. In addition to literary and moral instruction, the 
pupils are taught some mechanical trade by which they may be enabled to 
provide for themselves in after life. Most of them are supported by funds 
received from the State ; some by the states of Maryland and New Jer- 
sey ; and some by their friends or the institution. 

The Pennsylvania Institution for the instruction of the Blind is in Race 
street, near Schuylkill Third. The main edifice contains school, exhibi- 
tion and lodging rooms : there is also a commodious brick building erected 
for work shops and the pursuit of such trades as are carried on by the pu- 
pils. In this excellent institution about sixty blind children are instructed, 
not only in reading, writing, arithmetic, geography and music ; but they 
are also taught to manufacture a great variety of useful and ornamental 
articles, in which they are scarcely excelled by the clear-sighted. 

A great number of other charitable institutions have been estabhshed for 
various purposes, among which may be mentioned the Orphans' asylum ; 
the Asylum for indigent widows and single women ; Wills' hospital for 
the lame and blind; Preston retreat; Magdalen asylum; Foster home; 
Shelter for coloured orphans; Institute for coloured youth; St. John's 
and St. Joseph's orphan asylums; Christ church hospital; Friends' alms- 
house ; Friends' lunatic asylum near Frankford ; Philadelphia, Northern 
and Southern dispensaries for the supply of medicines to the poor ; House 
of industry ; Union benevolent association, and a number of societies for 
the relief and employment of the poor ; Fuel savings society ; Seaman's 
friend society ; Humane society ; Society for alleviating the miseries of 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 



331 



public prisons, &c. &c. There are also societies for the relief of poor and 
distressed emigrants from various foreign countries ; and a great number 
of Mutual relief societies, and other associations for benevolent purposes. 
Temperance associations are numerous, and their beneficial influence upon 
the moral habits of the community is apparent in the general improvement 
of society, and the decrease in the number of tippling houses and low ta- 
verns by which the city and suburbs were formerly infested. 

Religious societies.'— For the promotion of religion and morality, most of 
the existing religious denominations have in connexion with them Sunday 
schools and missionary, Bible and tract societies, which, with the blessing 
of Providence, are likely to exert a very beneficial influence on the rising 
generation. Among the most efficient operators in this good cause may 
be mentioned the American Sunday School Union, an association estab- 
lished for the purpose of publishing books of a religious character, for 
gratuitous distribution to Sunday schools, or for sale at low prices- 
Places of worship are numerous, many of them being edifices of consi- 
derable architectural beauty, with neat and commodious interior arrange- 
ments. Of these, together with the number of Sunday schools and scho- 
lars in the city of Philadelphia and its suburbs, we append a tabular 
statement, which, though compiled with care, may still not be found strictly 
correct. 



Religious 


Places of 


Sunday 


Sir'hnJni' 


denominations. 


worship. 


schools. 


KjCHUvILi 


Presbyterian 


. 23 


30 


8,500 


do. (African) 


3 


3 


250 


Reformed Presbyterian 


. 3 


2 


320 


Associate do. 


2 


2 


140 


Methodist Episcopal . 


. 19 


33 


7,660 


do. do. (African) 


4 


4 


600 


do. Protestant 


. 5 


5 


830 


Protestant Episcopal 


22 


26 


5,600 


do. do. (African) 


. 1 


2 


150 


Baptist .... 


14 


19 


4,150 


do. (African) 


. 4 


3 


200 


Lutheran '. 


6 


7 


1,650 


German Reformed . 


. 3 


2 


650 


Dutch Reformed . 


2 


5 


850 


Independent 


. 1 




470 


Moravian 


1 




200 


Friends (orthodox) 


. 4 






do. ... 


3 






Universalist 


. 3 


4 


500 


Unitarian 


1 




100 


Swedenborgian 


. 1 






Mennonist 


1 






Disciples of Christ 


. 1 






Bible Christians 


1 






Protestant (mariners' chapel) 1 




350 


Roman Catholic 


. 11 


10 


5,000 


Jews .... 


3 




150 


Mormon . 


. 1 







Total 



144 



163 



38,320 



Education. — The public schools of the city and county of Philadelphia 
are not governed by the provisions of the act of 1836, establishing a system 
of common school education for the State ; having been by a law passed in 
1818, erected into a separate district for this purpose, and denominated the 
First School district of Pennsylvania. This district is divided into sections 
numbered from one to eleven ; of which the City forms the first ; Northern 



332 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Liberties the second ; Southwark the third ; Spring Garden the fourth ; 
Oxford, Lower Dubhn, Moreland and Byberry the filth ; Bristol, German- 
town and Roxborough the sixth ; West Philadelphia, Blockley and King- 
sessing the seventh; Passyunk the eighth; Moyamensing the ninth; Ken- 
sington the tenth ; North and South Penn township and the unincorporated 
Northern Liberties the eleventh. A board of directors is elected in each 
district, whose number is regulated by the amount of duties to be performed. ' 
Those in the city and incorporated districts are elected by the councils or 
commissioners of the districts, and in the townships and boroughs by the 
people at the spring elections ; one-third of the whole number being elected 
annually. To these boards of directors are confided the organization and 
direction of the schools, the election of teachers, and the general superin- 
tendence of the local concerns of public education in the several sections. 

For the general control and regulation of school concerns in the whole 
district, a higher board is chosen by and from the directors, termed the 
"Controllers of the Public Schools," twenty-one in number, composed of 
representatives from the several sectional boards of directors ; the first section 
choosing seven ; the second, three ; the third, two ; the fourth, two ; the fifth 
and sixth, one each ; the seventh and eighth jointly, one ; the ninth, one ; the 
tenth, two ; and the eleventh, one. The controllers determine the amount of 
money to be drawn annually from the county treasury to defray the ex- 
penses of the schools ; erect and furnish the buildings to be used as school 
houses ; fix the number of teachers and their salaries, and furnish the 
books and other supplies. They control the expenses of the several sec- 
tions, and make the appropriations required for each. They have the im- 
mediate direction of the Model school, and of the High school, and make 
occasional visits of inspection to the schools of all the sections. 

According to the report of the Controllers for 1842, there were in the 
incorporated parts of the district, 62 primary schools with 9342 pupils; 11 
secondary schools with 2597 pupils ; 19 grammar schools with 8445 pupils ; 
and one high school with 307 pupils. In the outer sections there were 92 
schools with 6347 pupils : total amount of schools 185, and of pupils 27,808. 
The number of teachers employed was 339 ; of whom 91 were males and 
248 females : and their aggregate salaries $110,250 ; being an average an- 
mial compensation to each of $325. The average cost of tuition for each 
scholar was $3.97, and the total annual expense for each, not including in- 
terest on the cost of school houses and furniture, $5.16. The average an- 
nual cost of each pupil, from the establishment of the present system to 
1841, a period of twenty-two years, including interest on school houses and 
lots at 5 per cent., has been $5.07 ; about one-fourth of the amount which 
it would have cost the community to educate the same number of children 
in private schools. 

Twenty-four substantial school houses have been erected, generally 
three stories high, and of sufficient capacity to accommodate from 600 to 
1000 scholars each. The total value of these buildings, with the lots on 
which they stand, is estimated at $540,000, and the value of school furni- 
ture, libraries, &c., at from thirty to forty thousand dollars. The amount 
drawn from the county treasury in 1842, for the support of the public 
schools, was $180,000; and the appropriation received from the State for 
the same year, $57,764. 

The flourishing condition of the schools in this district, the progressive 
improvement which has been made in their organization, the improved 
method of teaching, and the extended and liberal course of instruciion pur- 
sued, are such as must afford the most lively satisfaction lo the friends of 
popular education, and bid fair to realise their most sanguine anticipations 
with regard to the beneficial effects of the system. It is believed that the 
course of instruction, as developed in the primary, secondary, grammar and 
high schools, constitutes one of the most perfect systems of common school 
education that has ever been reduced to practice ; and one which, while it 
recognises no distinction of rank or of wealth, affords to all the means of 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 333 

acquiring a sound, thorough, and practically useful education. Beginning 
in the primary schools, where the rudiments are taught, the pupil, when 
duly prepared, is advanced to the secondary and grammar schools, where 
receiving the advantages of a good Enghsh education, he may qualify him- 
self for admission into the high school, and thus be prepared for any busi- 
ness, profession or occupation to which his inclination and talent may direct 
him. 

The course of study in the High school is divided into the following de- 
partments : I. Enghsh Belles-Lettres, with History and Geography : II. 
The French and Spanish languages : III. The Latin and Greek languages: 
IV. Moral, Mental and Political science : V. Mathematics and theoretical 
Mechanics : VI. Mathematics and Astronomy : VII. Mechanics and Na- 
tural Philosophy : VIII. Chemistry: IX. Natural History, including Ana- 
tomy and Physiology: X. Drawing and Writing. These studies are 
grouped into three courses, one of which the parent of a pupil selects for 
His son. The first is the English course of two years, intended for those 
whose services will probably be required by their parents at the end of that 
period ; the second is the principal course of four years, intended as a pre- 
paration for pursuits connected with trade, commerce, manufactures, and 
the mechanic arts ; and the third is the classical course of four years, in- 
tended for those who are to become teachers, to go to college after passing 
through the high school, or, in general, whose parents may prefer this 
mode of mental training. 

A pupil must be twelve years of age, and must have attended one of the 
grammar schools at least one year before he can be a candidate for admis- 
sion into the high school; and most of those who have been admitted have 
passed through a regular course in the primary, secondary and grammar 
schools. The average time passed in the other public schools by the can- 
didates admitted to the high school in and since 1840, is within a small 
fraction of two years. The examinations for admission are semi-annual, 
in January and July ; the names of the candidates being unknown to the 
examining professors, and every opportunity for partiality or favourhism 
being rigidly excluded, while the qualifications of the pupil are most tho- 
roughly tested. One of the great advantages resulting from the high 
school is its reaction upon the grammar schools, the teachers. of which feel 
that the character of their respective schools is in some measure involved 
in the success or rejection of the candidates sent from them. Every exer- 
tion is therefore made to prepare them previously, and from the time of his 
reception into the grammar school the pupil is trained with a view to his 
being found, at the proper time, duly qualified to pass the requisite exami- 
nation for admission into the high school. 

The total expenses of the high school for 1842 were, for tuition $12,175 ; 
furniture $125; supplies $1,927; and real estate $1,891. Including the 
last item, which was for a permanent improvement and cannot again occur, 
the average cost for each pupil is about $47 ; while in the schools of Boston 
the cost of instruction for each pupil in the same branches is $61. Of a 
class of 27 pupils in the high school, graduating in July 1842, seven were 
intended for mechanical occupations, eight for commerce, eleven as teach- 
ers, and one for a profession. 

It is in contemplation to organize a branch of the high school for the in- 
struction of females, and a school for female teachers ; but as yet no defini- 
tive determination has been adopted in relation to the subject. 

In addition to the opportunities afforded for instruction by the public 
schools, there are in Philadelphia numerous academies, seminaries and 
private schools, in which are taught not only the higher branches of an 
English education, but the ancient and modern languages, mathematics, 
and most of the arts, sciences and accomplishments which form part of a 
liberal and finished education. 

By the will of the late Stephen Girard, two miUions of dollars were be- 
queathed for the purpose of erecting a permanent college with suitable out- 



334 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

buildings, sufficiently spacious for the residence and accommodation of at 
least three hundred scholars, the requisite teachers, &c. This college 
was intended by the founder for the reception of " poor white male orphan 
children," who by the terms of the will are to be instructed in certain 
branches of a sound practical education, and fed, clothed and lodged in a 
plain and decent manner. On arriving at an age between fourteen and 
eighteen years, they are to be bound out to suhable occupations, such as 
agriculture, navigation, arts, mechanical trades and manufactures, as their 
respective capacities, acquirements and inclinations may render expedient 
and proper. The buildings for this institution not being completed, no 
scholars have yet been received. 

The University of Pennsylvania, estabhshed in 1751 as an academy and 
charitable school, was chartered and endowed in 1753, erected into a col- 
lege in 1755, and into a university in 1779. This institution comprises 
three departments, — the academical, the collegiate, and the medical. In 
the collegiate department the usual college course of four years' instruction 
is given in such branches of study as are common in the principal universi- 
ties of the United States, and the usual degrees conferred. The medical 
school connected with this university is the most ancient and flourishing in 
the country, the number of students being generally from four to five 
hundred. There is an extensive anatomical museum and cabinet of natu- 
ral history, excellent chemical and philosophical apparatus, with a library 
of 2000 volumes attached to the university. Three charity schools, two 
male and one female, are supported by the funds of the institution. The 
university buildings are in Ninth street, between Market and Chestnut, 
and consist of two handsome edifices, each 85 feet front by 112 deep, sur- 
rounded by an open area which is separated from the street by a neat and 
substantial iron railing. 

Jefferson Medical College, established in 1825, and afterwards chartered 
by the legislature, is a flourishing institution, having generally about two 
hundred students. Its hall in Tenth street, between Chestnut and 
Walnut, has ample accommodations for lecturing and demonstrating in 
medicine, surgery and anatomy; with a museum of specimens and 
preparations in the various branches of science connected with medical 
studies. 

Pennsylvariia Medical College is a branch of the Pennsylvania College 
at Gettysburg, instituted in 1839, with power to confer degrees. It is lo- 
cated in Filbert street above Twelfth, and considering its recent establish- 
ment and the opportunities afforded to medical students by other institu- 
tions, its lectures have been well attended. 

The Philadelphia Medical Institute, the College of Pharmacy, the 
Medical Society, and the College of Physicians, are all respectable and 
useful institutions for the promotion of medical science. 

Literature, science, and the arts. — There are numerous institutions and 
associations for the promotion of hterature, science and the arts, the effici- 
ency of whose labours is beneficially felt and justly appreciated. 

The Philadelphia library, founded in 1731 by Dr. Franklin, contains 
upwards of 30.000 volumes, embracing works on almost every branch of 
general knowledge. To this has been added the Loganian library, for- 
merly belonging to the late Dr. Logan, composed of about 11,000 volumes 
of rare and valuable books, chiefly classical. These collections are kept 
in difierent rooms of the same building, and are in fact one library, which 
at certain hours is free to every respectable person. 

The Athenaeum, incorporated in 1815, contains, besides the current pe- 
riodical journals, a library consisting of several thousand volumes. The 
rooms are open every day except Sunday, and strangers are admhted gra- 
tuitouslv for one month, on introduction by a member. 

The Mercantile library was established in 1822, for the purpose of diffus- 
ing mercantile knowledge, and has a collection of about eight thousand vo- 
lumes, relating to subjects of commerce and its kindred pursuits. Popular 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 335 

lectures are delivered under the auspices of this institution, on commerce, 
commercial law, the arts, sciences and general literature. 

The Apprentices' Hbrary was instituted in 1819, by voluntary contri- 
butions from citizens, and contains about 14,000 volumes, chiefly adapt- 
ed to the taste and capacity of young persons, for whose use it was estab- 
lished. It is open for all boys and girls who give a sufficient guaranty 
for the careful use and proper return of the books, and about 1300 young 
people avail themselves of its benefits. 

The American Philosophical Society is the oldest association of the kind 
in this country, having been formed by the union of two associations for 
the advancement of useful knowledge, both founded principally by Dr. 
Franklin, one in 1728, and the other in 1743. This society has always 
been held in high consideration on account of the interest of its proceed- 
ings, the respectabiUty of its character for learning and science, and the 
number of eminent men, both in this country and in Europe, whose names 
are found on the list of its members. Its presidents have been Benjamin 
Franklin, David Rittenhouse, Thomas Jefferson, Caspar Wistar, Robert 
Patterson, William Tilghman, and Peter Stephen Duponceau. Its library 
consists of near 15,000 volumes of valuable and rare books, many of which, 
have been presented by foreign governments and learned societies. In 
addition to the library there is a collection of minerals and fossils, ancient 
relics, and many other curious and interesting objects. Strangers are ad- 
mitted to the hall when introduced by a member. The society issues, for 
the use of its members, monthly bulletins of its transactions, which are 
afterwards embodied and published in a larger and more durable form. 

The Franklin Institute, incorporated in 1824, has for its object " the pro- 
motion and encouragement of manufactures and the mechanic and use- 
ful arts, by the establishment of popular lectures on the sciences connected 
with them ; by the formation of a cabinet of models and minerals, and a 
library ; by offering premiums on all subjects deemed worthy of encourage- 
ment; by examining all new inventions submitted to them, and by such 
other means as they may deem expedient." The number of members is 
upwards of 2000, each of whom pays an annual contribution of three dol- 
lars, or by the payment of twenty-five dollars becomes a life member. 
Regular courses of lectures are delivered upon chemistry, mechanics, na- 
tural philosophy, arts and manufactures and other practical and scientific 
subjects. Conversation meetings are held on the third Thursday of each 
month, at which specimens of new inventions and other objects of interest 
are exhibited, explained and discussed. Attached to the institute is a read- 
ing room and hbrary, containing most of the periodical publications of the 
day, together with about 3000 volumes of books in the various departments 
of science and literature. There are also extensive and interesting cabi- 
nets of models, minerals, geological specimens, and specimens illustrative 
of the arts and manufactures. Exhibitions of the products of American 
industry are held annually under the direction of the Institute, which pre- 
sent a pleasing and instructive view of the skill and proficiency attained by 
our manufacturers and mechanics in a vast variety of branches, and never fail 
to gratify and instruct immense crowds of visiters. A Journal is published 
monthly by the Institute, containing an account of recent inventions, im- 
provements and discoveries in science and the arts, with much other useful 
matter on subjects connected with the objects of the institution. 

The Academy of Natural Sciences occupies a new and spacious building 
recently erected for its use in Broad street, between Chestnut and Walnut. 
It has a Ubrary of about 9000 volumes of valuable books, and an extensive 
collection of specimens in the various departments of natural science. Its 
transactions are published under the title of the Journal of the Academy 
of Natural Sciences. The hall is open to visiters on the afternoon of every 
Saturday. 

The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, in Chestnut street above 
Tenth, was founded in 1805, and contains an extensive collection of paint* 



336 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

ings, statues and other works of art, always open to students and exhibited 
to visiters. 

The Artists' Fund Society, though it has been in existence but a few- 
years, has been conducted with so much zeal and industry as to have as- 
sumed a prominent place among institutions of this kind. Its hall is in 
Chestnut street, in front of the Academy of Fine Arts, and is designed for 
the exhibition of the productions of its members and others, with a view to 
provide a fund for the support of decayed artists. It forms an attractive 
place of resort for artists and amateurs, and affords a tolerably correct idea 
of the state of the fine arts among us. 

The Philadelphia Museum, founded more than half a century since by 
the late G. W. Peale, now an incorporated institution, was formerly exhi- 
bited in the upper rooms of the State house, then removed to the Arcade, 
and finally, in 1839, to the building which it now occupies at the corner of 
Ninth and George streets. This spacious edifice is 238 feet in length, 
70 in breadth, and two stories high. The upper story contains the mu- 
seum, and having been constructed expressly for its reception, is admirably 
arranged for the favourable exhibition of the extensive suite of specimens 
and objects of curiosity which it contains. The saloon of the first floor, 
163 feet in length and 70 in width, was formerly occupied by the Chinese 
Museum ; but since the removal of that collection to Europe, this spacious 
hall is devoted to temporary exhibitions, public meetings, &c. 

Besides those which we have mentioned, there are many other institu- 
tions and associations for hterary and scientific purposes, of which our 
Umits forbid a particular account. Most of them have their libraries and 
reading rooms, and in many of them lectures are delivered on subjects 
connected with the objects of the association. The combined influence 
of these institutions is apparent upon the general character of the commu- 
nity, by promoting the interests of learning, science and morality, and cul- 
tivating a taste for mental improvement and the pure pleasures arising from 
literary and scientific pursuits. Many of our young men, whose evenings 
would probably be otherwise spent in places oi amusement and dissipation, 
find a nobler pleasure and a higher enjoyment in passing their leisure hours 
in the halls or lecture rooms of some of our numerous institutions for men- 
tal culture and intellectual gratification. 

Such, imperfectly as we have sketched it, is Philadelphia, than 
which perhaps no city in the Avorld possesses more that contributes 
physically to the comforts of life ; while for the merchant, the 
manufacturer, the mechanic, the artist, the man of letters or of 
science, the philanthropist or the Christian, there is presented a field 
of action in which his labours will be justly appreciated, if not in 
all cases suitably rewarded. The rapid increase and extension of 
the city within the last twenty or thirty years would seetn to indi- 
cate that the manufactures, trade and commerce of Philadelphia 
will keep pace with the general progress of improvement, and Avith 
the developement of the agricultural and mineral resources of the 
State ; promising in time to realize the prediction said to have been 
uttered by Stephen Girard, that " Germantown and Frankford will 
be absorbed by the city." 

Besides the city and its suburbs, Philadelphia county contains 
numerous other flourishing towns and villages, of which we shall 
briefly notice some of the most considerable and important. 

Frankford, an incorporated borough in Oxford township, five 
miles north-east from the city, contains upwards of 2000 inhabi- 
tants, and is a thriving and busy place, being situated in the midst 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 



337 



of a populous, fertile and well cultivated country, and having in its 
vicinity a number of extensive manufacturing establishments. ' 

Germantown, six miles north-north-west from Philadelphia, is an 
ancient place, having been founded in 1684, and incorporated as a 
borough in 1689. The town consists chiefly of but one street, or 
rather a close line of buildings extending on each side of the 
turnpike for a distance of three or four miles. It contains a num- 
ber of churches, a bank, several academies, and has, together with 
the township, a population of 5482. Some important branches of 
inanufacturing industry are carried on in this place and its imme- 
diate neighbourhood. It has communication with the city almost 
every hour in the day, by means of rail road and stages. This 
place is celebrated as having been the theatre of a sanguinary con- 
test during the revolutionary war (Oct. 4, 1777) between detach- 
ments of the British and American armies, in which considerable 
loss was suffered on both sides. 

Manaijunk is on the east side of Schuylkill, about eight miles 
above the city. This flourishing manufacturing town has sprung 
up from the creation of the water power afibrded by the dam and 
improvements of the Schuylkill navigation. In 1819 the place 
where the town now stands was mostly covered with trees and 
bushes : it now contains upwards of five hundred dwellings, and 
twenty-five or thirty flour and paper mills, cotton factories, and 




View near Manayunk. 

Other extensive and valuable manufacturing establishments. — 
The Schuylkill canal and Norristown rail road both pass through 
the town, afibrding constant intercourse with the city : it is also 
connected by a Macadamized road with the Ridge turnpike, 

29 



338 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Here are two bridges across the Schuylkill,, one of which is at Flat- 
rock^ a little above the town. 

Holmesburg is on the Bristol turnpike, at Pennypack creek, about 
ten miles from the city ; having several mills and factories in the 
village and its immediate neighbourhood. The Philadelphia and 
Trenton rail road passes near this place. 

Bridesburg, at the mouth of Frankford creek, on the Delaware, 
five miles above the city, is a new and flourishing village, near 
which is the United States' arsenal, consisting of extensive stone 
buildings, constructed for the preservation of arms and military 
stores, together with work shops, magazines, &,c. 

Bustleton, on Pennypack creek, eleven miles north-east from the 
city, is a pleasant village, containing upwards of 300 inhabitants, 
having an excellent turnpike road passing through it. Three miles 
further, on the same road, is Smithfield or Somerton, near the 
north-eastern limit of the county. 

Simville, commonly called Rising-sun, is at the junction of the 
Germantown and old York roads, three miles from the city. 
JVicetown, Branchtown and Milestown are villages further north- 
ward ; the first on the Germantown, and the others on the York 
road. 

West Philadelphia is in Blockley township, on the west side of 
Schuylkill, opposite the city at Market street, containing about 150 
dwelhngs and stores, with several manufacturing establishments. 
Hamilton and Mantua villages are on the same side of the rivei;, 
and contain many pleasant residences, a number of which are oc- 
cupied as summer retreats by citizens. Haddington is four miles 
west of the city, and has a spacious academy and several manu- 
facturing estabhshments in its vicinity. 

How is Philadelphia county bounded ? Describe the face of the country 
and the character of the soil. To what geological class do the rocks be- 
long, and what varieties are mentioned ? Where is steatite or soap stone 
found ? Name some of the principal minerals and the places where they 
occur. What creeks are mentioned as flowing through this county ? What 
is said of the cUmate, and of the extremes of temperature ? How is the 
city of Philadelphia situated, and what is its extent? Describe the Hmits 
of the city proper. What is said of the adjoining districts? Who owned 
the soil before the arrival of WiUiam Penn ? Where did Penn hold a 
treaty with the Indians, and what is said of the famous elm tree ? In what 
yaar was the town laid out ? Where were the first houses mostly built ? 
What is said of the increase of population, and from^what countries did 
numerous immigrants arrive ? In what year was the State-house built ? 
What prophetic motto was inscribed on the bell cast for its first steeple, 
and how was it verified ? Mention some of the oldest buildings now re- 
maining in the city. Describe the general plan of the city and the direction 
of the streets. In what manner are the streets paved and drained? De- 
scribe the situation and extent of the several public squares. What is said 
of the general style of architecture and of the materials used in building ? 
Mention some of the most conspicuous marble edifices in Philadelphia. 
Give a general description of the Girard college. Of the United States' 
bank. Bank of Pennsylvania. Girard bank. Merchants' exchange. 

How was the city supplied with water before the erection of the Fair- 
mount works ? What is the capacity of the reservoirs at Fairmount, and 
their height above the river? Describe ihe manner in which water is 



PHILADELPHIA CITY AND COUNTY. 339 

raised into them, and conducted from them into the city. What is the 
average quantity used daily throughout the year ? What is the extent of 
iron water pipes laid in the city and districts? What has been the total 
cost of the water works, and what is the expense of the present system 
compared with the former ? Give a general description of the gas works. 
How is gas conducted from the works throughout the city and distributed to 
the burners ? What is said respecting the supply of provisions for the city ? 
How supplied with fuel ? What is said of the resources, trade, &c. of 
Philadelphia ? Mention some of the circumstances which have contributed 
to its prosperity. What is the character of manufactures and mechanic 
arts in Philadelphia ? What can you say of her manufactures of iron? Of 
steam engines and machinery ? Mention some of the other principal 
branches of manufacturing industry. Describe the United States' navy 
yard. The United States' mint. How many banks are in operation, and 
what is the 'amount of their capital ? Insurance companies ? W^hat num- 
ber of fire-engine and hose companies ? In what manner is the mayor of 
the city elected, and what powers are exercised by him ? How are the 
councils elected, and what are their duties ? Aldermen ? In what manner 
are the adjoining incorporated districts governed ? How are the county of- 
ficers elected ? How are the expenses of the several corporations of city 
and districts defrayed ? In what manner is the general county tax levied ? 

Give a general description of the Eastern penitentiary. Of the cells and 
interior arrangements generally. Of the treatment of convicts. Describe 
the County prison. The Debtors' prison. House of Refuge, Philadel- 
phia Almshouse. What is said of the extent and interior arrangement of 
this building ? What is the average number of paupers maintained in the 
establishment? How is the institution governed? Describe the Pennsyl- 
vania hospital. Insane asylum. United States' Marine hospital. Institu- 
tion for the Deaf and Dumb. Institution for the instruction of the Bhnd. 
What other charitable institutions can you mention ? What is said of Tem- 
perance associations ? How many houses for public worship are there in 
the city and suburbs ? The number of Sunday schools and scholars ? 

In what manner is the public school district composed of the city and 
county divided into sections ? How are the school directors elected, and 
what are their duties ? How is the board of controllers chosen, and what 
duties do they perform ? What is the total number of schools, of scholars, 
and of teachers employed ? What is said of the system of instruction, as 
developed in the primary, secondary, grammar and high schools ? De- 
scribe the courses of study in the high school. What are the conditions of 
admittance for a pupil ? What is said of academies, seminaries and private 
schools ? What were the objects of the Girard college as intended by its 
founder ? Give some account of the University of Pennsylvania, and of 
the medical school connected with it. Of Jefferson Medical college. Penn- 
sylvania Medical college. What can you say of the Philadelphia library ? 
Of the Athenaeum ? Mercantile hbrary ? Apprentices' library ? Ame- 
rican Philosophical society ? Franklin Institute ? Academy of Natural 
Science? Academy of the Fine Arts? Artists' Fund society? Phila- 
delphia Museum ? What is said of literary and scientific associations, and 
of their general influence upon the character of the community ? 

Where is Frankford situated, and what is said of it ? Germantown ? 
Manayunk? Holmesburg ? Bridesburg? Bustletonand Somerton? Sun. 
ville ? Nicetown, Branchtown, and Milestown ? West Philadelphia ? 
What other villages are named ? 



340 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

45. Pike County. 

Pike county lies north of Monroe, having the river Delaware on 
the east and north-east, and the county of Wayne on the west and 
north-west. Population 3,832. 

The face of the country is uneven and hilly rather than moun- 
tainous, the most elevated point being called the High Knob, w^hich 
is a continuation of the Pokono ridge, prolonged north-eastward 
from Monroe county. x\long the Delaware below Milford is a 
narrow fertile valley, between the river and a range of slate hills 
which run nearly parallel with it. 

These hills are the lower portion of the olive slate formation which 
spreads out widely over the south-eastern part of the county, containing 
much greenish gray sandstone in thin and nearly horizontal strata. North 
west of this series of rocks are the red and gray sandstones and shales of 
the next formation (IX) which extends over most of the remaining part of 
the county. 

The soil is generally thin and stony : a large portion of the 
county is a neglected wilderness, overgrown with scrub oak and 
other small trees and shrubs j in the low grounds near the streams 
the soil is better, and larger trees of oak, hemlock and pine are 
found. White pine is becoming scarce, having been, like much 
of the other valuable timber, cut off in former years by the lum- 
bermen, wherever found within reach of a stream large enough 
to float it away. 

The Delaware river flows along the north-eastern side of this 
county, separating it from the state of New York, until it reaches 
the New Jersey line at Carpenter's point, 7 miles above Milford, 
where it turns to the south-west and thence divides Pike county 
from New Jersey. Lackawaxen is a large stream emptying into the 
Delaware in the north ; a branch of which, called IValleiipaupack , 
running northward, forms most of the western boundary. On 
this stream, not far from its mouth, are several perpendicular falls 
of considerable height, aflbrding a site for the employment of wa- 
ter power which in a fertile and accessible country might be ren- 
dered of immense value. Some improvements have been erected 
here, but the business undertaken does not seem to have been very 
prosperous. 

Shohola creek falls into the Delaware below the Lackawaxen, 
and has a number of saw mills erected on it. Saivkill and Ramys- 
kill empty into the Delaware below Milford ; Bnshkill is a large 
creek in the southern part of the county, being its boundary Une 
for some distance from the Delaware. Most of these streams 
issue from small lakes and ponds in the wild uninhabited interior 
of the county, and in their descent from the higher land to the 
Delaware are frequently precipitated over perpendicular ledges 
and cliffs of rock, forming a number of cascades of singular wild- 
ness and beauty. These, from the nature of the country, offer lit- 
tle inducement to the calculating utilitarian spirit of profit, which 
seizes upon every waterfall and converts it into a working power 
for sawing, grinding or manufacturing. Here, where there is 



PIKE COUNTY. 341 

little to saw, and nothing to grind or manufacture, the wild and 
romantic features of nature remain in their primitive state, un- 
changed by the restless spirit of gain, which threatens in time to 
convert Niagara itself into an enormous mill-dam, and to drown 
the roar of that mighty cataract in the noise of wheels and the rat- 
tle of machinery driven by its power. 

Milford is the seat of justice, situated on the Delaware about 60 
miles above Easton. It is not a place of much importance, and 
but little business is transacted here except the public affairs of 
the county. The public buildings are not extensive, and the pri- 
vate dwellings are mostly constructed of wood. There is a hand- 
some bridge across the Delaware near the town. The Milford 
and Owego turnpike passes westward from this place, and a line 
of stages from New York, by way of Newark in New Jersey, runs 
on this route to Owego and other places in the west. 

The Delaware and Hudson canal passes up the Lackawaxen 
through the northern part of this county, and continues to Hones- 
dale in Wayne county, where it communicates by rail road with 
the coal mines at Carbondale, on the Lackawana. 

The agricultural productions are chiefly confined to the valleys 
in the eastern portion, near the Delaware. In those parts of the 
county where the timber is suitable, considerable quantities of 
lumber are produced, which is rafted down the Delaware at high 
water. 

Assessed valuation of property^ in 1842, subject to county taxa- 
tion, $831,306 : county tax $2,49-3 : State tax $899. 

Pike county contains 8 school districts of which 7 have accepted 
the common school law. The reported number of schools in ope- 
ration is 14, which are open about 5 months in the year. There 
are two academies in the county, — one at Milford and the other at 
Dingman's ferry. 

How is Pike county bounded ? Describe the general face of the coun- 
try. What are the principal rock formations ? What is said of the soil, 
and timber? What is the course of the river Delaware? What large 
stream empties into it? What is said of the VVallenpaupack, and the falls 
upon it? Mention the other principal streams and their situation. What 
is said of the various waterfalls ? How is Milford situated, and what is 
said of it ? What turnpike crosses the county ? Describe the course of the 
Delaware and Hudson canal. What is said of agricultural produce, lum- 
ber, &c.? Of common schools and academies ? 

46. Potter County. 

Potter county is bounded north by the state of New York, east 
by Tioga, south by Clinton, and west by McKean. According to 
the census of 1840 it contained 3,371 inhabitants. 

This is one of the most elevated counties of Pennsylvania, con- 
sisting of a high though uneven table land, on which rise streams 
flowing northward to the Genesee, eastward to the North branch 
of Susquehanna, southward to the West branch, and westward 
to the Allegheny. Springs, therefore, rising within a few miles 
of one another, discharge their waters into the ocean through the 

29* 



342 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

distant outlets of the Gulf of St. Lawrence^ the Chesapeake bay, 
and the Gulf of Mexico. The principal streams are Fine creek. 
Kettle creek, and Smnenialwning, branches of the Susquehanna; 
and the heads of the Allegheny and Genesee rivers. 

The rocks generally belong to the geological formations next in order 
below the bituminous coal measures ; thougli it is possible that the highest 
hills towards the southern part of the county may contain elevated patches 
of some of the lower coal beds. The wilderness nature of the country 
renders exploration difficult, and a minute developement of its geological and 
mineral resources must be left to a future period, until a more improved 
communication with this region shall give value to its contents. 

Thick forests of pine, hemlock, beech, sugar maple and other 
timber extend over most of the county ; the settlements are few 
and remotely scattered, the inhabitants depending chiefly upon 
lumber and other productions of the forest for their subsistence. 
Maple sugar is made to a considerable amount. Agriculture is, 
however, beginning to receive more attention as the settlements 
increase. 

Coudersport is ihe seat of justice, situated in the western part 
of the county, on the Allegheny river near its source. It contains 
a handsome stone court-house, and other public buildings. A 
turnpike road leads from this place to Jersey shore on the West 
branch of Susquehanna, a distance of 67 miles, through a wilder- 
ness ; there being, until very recently, but one house on the road 
between the two places. An east and west road, crossing the 
northern tier of counties, also pass through Coudersport. 

The value of property assessed in 1842, subject to taxation for 
county purposes, was $603,547 : county tax |4,585 : State tax $615. 

In this, as in the other northern counties, the common school 
system is generally adopted. Potter contains 16 school districts 
of which 14 have accepted the law and maintain 43 schools which 
are open for instruction 5 months in the year. 

Inhabitants mostly from the Eastern states and from other parts 
of Pennsylvania. The streams abound with trout; and deer, bears 
and some elk are found in the woods. 

How is Potter county bounded ? Describe the face of the country, and 
the different directions of the waters which flow from it. What are the 
principal streams? What is said of the geological formations? Of the 
forests of timber, and general nature of the country? Of the productions, 
and the attention paid to agriculture ? What is the seat of justice, and 
where situated ? What turnpike road is named? What is said of educa- 
tion, and common schools ? From what places are the inhabitants chiefly 
derived? What species of game abound? 

47. Schuylkill County. 

Schuylkill county is bounded north by Northumberland and Co- 
lumbia, north-east by Luzerne, east by Carbon, south by Lehigh 
and Berks, and west by Lebanon and Dauphin. Population, 
29.053. 

The face of the country is mostly rough and mountainous : some 



SCHUYLKILL COUNTY. 343 

of the valleys are cultivated, but only a small portion of the county 
is adapted to agricultural purposes. 

The climate is healthy, though subject to considerable extremes 
of heat and cold. According to the meteorological observations 
made at Port Carbon, the mercury in January, 1841, fell to 20^ be- 
low zero, and in July of the same year rose to 100°. 

On the south, the Blue or Kittatiny mountain separates Schuyl- 
kill from Berks and Lehigh ; between this and the Second moun- 
tain is a hilly and uneven country, broken by numerous irregular 
ridges, sometimes of considerable height, but inferior in elevation 
to the principal mountain ranges between which they are situated. 
North of the Second mountain is Sharp mountain, the southern 
limit of the anthracite coal field, and between this and Broad 
mountain is the hilly area of the southern coal basin. The Broad 
mountain is a high irregular table land, terminating on the west in 
several points or spurs which jut out into the valley between it 
and the Mahontongo mountain. The latter extends eastward from 
the Susquehanna, and terminates at its junction with the Line 
mountain, near the north-western boundary of the county. In the 
north-east are Bear ridge. Locust and Green mountains. 

Along the north side of the Blue mountain is a belt of red shale (V,) 
succeeded by a thin limestone formation (VI) not always discoverable, next 
to which, in the first ridge north of the mountain, is a yellowish coarse sand- 
stone (VII) containing cavities showing the impressions of fossil shells which 
have once been imbedded in it. Extending from the northern base of this 
ridge to the Second mountain are the olive slates (VIII) and the red sand- 
stones and shales (IX) of the next succeeding formations. In the Second 
mountain we have the compact coarse gray sandstone (X) next in order, 
and the same formation is seen in Mahontongo mountain, dipping south- 
ward beneath the red shale of Lykens' valley. In the narrow valley be- 
tween Second and Sharp mountains is the red shale (XI) which encircles 
all the anthracite coal basins, and which is also seen in Williains, Lykens', 
Mahanoy and Locust valleys ; as well as in the small valleys separating the 
terminating spurs of the various coal basins. The conglomerate rock, 
composed of cemented pebbles and sand, which lies immediately below 
the coal measures, occurs in the Sharp mountain, on the wide and elevated 
plateau of the Broad mountain where not covered by the coal series ; 
also in Locust and Green mountains, and in the minor ridges which divide, 
by their axes of elevation, the coal fields into separate troughs or basins. A. 
minute description of the various smaller divisions of the great coal fields 
is not necessary on the present occasion, and a mere general notice is all 
that our limits will allow. 

The great southern coal field extends westward from the Mauch Chunk 
mines into Schuylkill county, and in the neighbourhood of Tuscarora is 
divided by an anticlinal axis into two basins, — that of Mine hill on the 
north, which extends westward along the Broad mountain, and the Potts- 
ville basin on the south, which is prolonged westward by the Swatara, be- 
yond which it is separated by the red shale of Williams' valley into two 
branches ; the northern one extending into Bear valley between Wiconisco 
creek and Lykens' valley, and the southern continuing along the north 
side of the Sharp or Third mountain, called the Stony creek coal basin. 

On the elevated table land of the Broad mountain are several shallow 
coal basins, some of which have been so much denuded as to contain only 
the very lower strata of the coal measures, and consequently cannot prove 
very productive. On the north are several coal troughs connected with the 
Beaver meadow and Mahanoy basins, containing a number of productive 



344 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

beds which may at a future day become important, when means shall be 
afforded for transporting tlie coal of this region to a market. 

A detailed account of the innumerable coal mines within this county, 
and a particular description of the various beds which are worked, would 
far exceed our Umits. In the east there are extensive mines in the vicinity 
of Tamaqua ; from which the coal is sent on a rail road down the Little 
Schuylkill to Port Chnton, where it is transferred to boats on the Schuyl- 
kill navigation. Along the Schuylkill valley, from Tuscarora westward 
towards Fottsville, are numerous mines ; the product of which is sent by 
a rail road down the valley to the Schuylkill navigation at Port Carbon. 
Fottsville is the great central point of the coal operations in this district; 
and in its vicinity, in the region extending from the Sharp to the Broad 
mountain, are many extensive mines on Norwegian, Mill creek and other 
streams ; from which branch rail roads lead to the navigation or to the 
Fottsville and Reading rail road. Further westward, on the West Branch 
and its tributaries, a vast amount of coal is also mined; which is sent by 
the Mine hill and Schuylkill Haven railroad to the river at Schuylkill Haven. 
Beyond this, on the head waters of the Swatara, many fine coal beds are 
worked ; from which the coal is sent on rail roads to Pine Grove, and thence 
down the Swatara by the navigation of the Union Canal Company. In the 
gaps by which the Swatara, Lorberry and other streams pass through the 
mountain ridges, a great number of coal seams are exposed in situations 
favourable for mining advantageously. The productive capacity and inex- 
haustible character of the southern coal field will be perceived by the fol- 
lowing statement, from a description of the Swatara coal region, of the 
number of beds which had then been discovered on the waters of that 
stream. Five of these, in the Sharp mountain, are of the thickness re- 
spectively of 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 feet: in Red mountain are seven, measuring 
4, 6, 8, 12, 14, 20, and 30 feet: m Coal mountain three, of 6, 14 and 18 
feet: in Little Lick mountain five, of 4, 6, 8, 14 and 22: in Big Lick six, 
namely, one of 4, three of 5, one of 9, and another of 14 feet: in Thick 
mountain five, of 5, 6,7, 18 and 22 feet. The Stony creek and Wiconisco 
or Bear valley branches of this coal basin both extend westward into Dau- 
phin county ; but in the latter, at Klinger's or Raush gap, in Schuylkill 
county, where Raush creek passes through the mountain from Bear valley 
northward into Lykens' valley, nine seams of coal have been opened of 
from 4 to 24 feet thick, and a number of others are known to exist which 
have not yet been explored. In the region north of the Broad mountain 
but Httle has yet been done towards the exploration and developement of 
the numerous coal beds which are known to exist about the head waters 
of the Mahanoy, except some openings in the vicinity of Girardvilie, on 
the Danville and Fottsville rail road, which afford sufficient proof of the 
highly productive and valuable character of this portion of the coal field. 

The middle and eastern part of the county is principally watered 
by the Schi(ylkill river and its various branches. The Little Schuyl- 
kill rises in the east and flows southward, uniting with the main 
stream at Port Clinton, a little above the Blue mountain. The 
West Branch empties near Schuylkill Haven, four miles below 
Fottsville. In the south-west is the Swatara, running south-west- 
ward towards the Susquehanna ; and in the north-west the Ma- 
hontongo, and its branches Pine and Deep creeks, having a western 
course to the same river. In the north is Mahanoy creek, and its 
tributary Shenandoah, flowing westward ; and in the north-east, 
the head streams of Catawissa creek, running north-westward to 
the north branch of Susquehanna. 

Orwigsburg, the seat of justice, is situated on the turnpike lead- 
ing from Reading through Pottsville to Sunbury, 26 miles from 



SCHUYLKILL COUNTY. 345 

Reading, and 8 south-east of Pottsville. It contains a population 
of nearly 800, and has a court house, a prison, a building for the 
public offices, and three churches of different denominations. 

Pottsville is the principal town in the county, containing 4,345 
inhabitants within the borough limits and a considerable popula- 
tion in the adjacent suburbs. It is situated on the Schuylkill, 34 
miles above Reading and 86 from Philadelphia, in a favourable 
location for business, being in the midst of the mining district and 
having a communication with Philadelphia both by rail road and 
navigation. Large quantities of coal are shipped here, not only 
from the mines in the immediate vicinity of the town ; but also 
that which is brought on branch rail roads from different points in 
the surrounding region. It is also the seat of considerable other 
business ; containing upwards of thirty stores, and a number of 
manufacturing establishments of various kinds. The pubhc build- 
ings are a town hall, a borough prison or lock-up house, an aca- 
demy, a bank, and a number of churches. This place is remark- 
able for the rapidity of its growth, springing up in the midst of a 
wild mountainous region, and becoming in a few years a busy 
and populous town, important not only for its size and population, 
but for the enterprise and active industry of its inhabitants, and 
the extent of its business operations. 

Port Carbon, on the Schuylkill above Pottsville, Minersville on 
the West branch, Schuylkill Haven and Port Clinton below Potts- 
ville, and Tamaqua on the Little Schuylkill, are places of some 
note, sustained principally by the coal trade. Besides these there 
are a great number of small villages scattered through the coal re- 
gion and inhabited chiefly by miners. Pine Orove, on the Swa- 
tara, at the head of the Union Canal Company's navigation, is a 
place of some importance as the point of shipment for large quan- 
tities of coal from the SAvatara region. 

The staple production is anthracite coal, of which about 600,000 
tons are annually mined and sent to market; in addition to which, 
it is estimated that 20,000 tons are consumed within the county. 
The first coal for shipment from the Schuylkill region was mined 
in 1825, amounting in that year to only 5,306 tons. In 1830 it 
had increased to 89,984 tons, — in 1835 to 335,685 tons, — and in 
1841 to .584,692 tons, exclusive of that mined in the Swatara re- 
gion in the western part of the county. The population of the 
coal region is estimated at 16,000, in addition to which it is sup- 
posed that 1,500 persons are engaged in the transportation, &c., of 
coal on the canals and rail roads who do not reside within the 
county ; making the population dependent upon the coal trade 
17,500. The number of miners is about 1,700, and the horses 
and mules employed about the mines and in boating, not less 
than 2,000. The conveyance of coal out of the mines requires 
1,500 drift cars, and its transportation to the landings and to 
market employs 2,000 rail road cars and 850 boats. Most of 
the mines being worked in the hills above water level, require no 
steam engines; but there are 17 colheries \vorked below water 
level, in which engines are used for pumping out the water, rais- 



346 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

ing- the coal, &c. Upwards of four millions of dollars are invested 
in objects immediately connected with the coal trade. The aggre- 
gate length of rail roads constructed by companies and individuals 
is upwards of 100 miles, in addition to which are about 40 miles 
of rail road laid under ground in the various mines. 

Iron ore occurs at several places in the neighbourhood of Potts- 
ville and in other parts of the county. Four furnaces, six forges, 
one rolling mill and five foundries have been erected for the manu- 
facture of iron. There are 31 steam engines in the county, in- 
cluding colliery engines, amounting to upwards of one thousand 
horse power ; twenty- three of these engines were manufactured in 
Schuylkill county. There are two extensive machine shops, three 
steam flour mills, 33 grist mills, 180 saw mills, 2 powder mills, and 
various other establishments for different kinds of manufactures. 

Agricultural operations are chiefly confined to the valleys in the 
southern part of the county, and to those of Mahontongo, Pine and 
Deep creeks in the north-west, where there are many well culti- 
vated and productive farms, the number of which is yearly in- 
creasing with the demand for agricultural produce in the coal 
region. Wheat, rye, corn, oats, buckwheat, potatoes and hay are 
raised in considerable quantities and find a ready market, at good 
prices, in Pottsville and other towns in the mining districts. 

The assessed valuation of property taxable for county purposes 
in 1842, was $5,037,632: county tax $28,380: State tax $8,015. 

Of the pubhc improvements, the most considerable is the Schuyl- 
kill navigation, of which about 18 miles are in this county; 
the rail road from Reading to Pottsville ; and that intended to con- 
nect Pottsville with Sunbury on the Susquehanna, called the Potts- 
ville and Danville rail road, about 12 miles of which are yet unfin- 
ished. The rail roads wholly within the county are the Mine hill 
and SchuylkiU Haven, with its branches, altogether about 20 miles 
in length ; the Little Schuylkill from Port Clinton to Tamaqua 23 
miles; the Schuylkill valley, from Port Carbon to Tuscarora 9 
miles ; Mill creek 5 miles ; Mount Carbon 7 miles -, Lorberry and Swa- 
tara 8 miles ; and the Union Canal rail road from Pine grove 8 miles ; 
besides a number of private and branch rail roads leading to various 
mines. The Centre turnpike, from Reading to Sunbury, passes 
through the county by Port Clinton, Orwigsburg and Pottsville. 

The state of education in this county is not very flourishing, 
and, except in Pottsville and some of the other towns, the subject 
receives but little attention. There are 23 school districts of which 
only ten have accepted the common school law, and have 39 
schools estabHshed, which are taught during an average period of 
7\ months in the year. There is an academy at Pottsville and 
another at Orwigsburg ; at the latter place is also a female seminary. 

The early settlers of the county were mostly Germans, and that 
language is yet commonly spoken by their descendants. Since the 
commencement of extensive mining operations, the population of 
the coal region has been greatly augmented by an influx of people 
from other counties, and by great numbers from Wales, Scotland, 
Ireland and England. 



SOMERSET COUNTY. 347 

State the boundaries of Schuylkill county. What is said of the face of 
the country, and its adaptation to agriculture ? Describe the climate and 
mention the extremes of heat and cold. What mountain lies on the soutla ? 
What others are between this and the Broad mountain ? Describe the 
Broad and Mahontongo mountains. Name those situated in the north-east. 
Mention the situation and extent of the principal rock formations. Give a 
description of the southern coalfield. What is said of the coal measures 
on the Broad mountain, and of the basins north of it ? How is coal sent 
from the mines about Tamaqua ? From those in the Schuylkill valley be- 
tween Tuscarora and Pottsville ? What is said of the mining region be- 
tween the Sharp and Broad mountain in the neighbourhood of Pottsville ? 
Of that on the West branch of the Schuylkill ? How is coal sent from the 
Swatara region ? What is said of the number and thickness of the coal 
beds in several mountains here? Of those at Klinger's gap in the Bear 
valley region ? At what place has coal been mined north of the Broad 
mountain, and what is the character of the coal beds there ? What streams 
water the middle and eastern part of the county ? Describe the Little 
Schuylkill. Where does the West Branch empty ? What other streams 
are mentioned in different parts of the county, and in what direction do 
they flow ? What town is the seat of justice, and how situated ? Men- 
tion the principal town in the county, and its situation. What is the prin- 
cipal business carried on here ? Mention the public buildings. For what 
is this place remarkable? What other tow^ns are mentioned as being sus- 
tained chiefly by the coal trade ? Where is Pine grove and for what noted ? 
What is the staple production of the county, and what amount annually 
mined ? In what year was the first coal mined for shipment, and to what 
amount ? State the amount produced in each of the several years men- 
tioned. What is the number of persons supposed to be dependent upon 
the coal trade ? Mention the number of miners, horses, cars and boats 
employed ? What is the number of steam engines used, the amount of 
capital invested, and the length of rail roads constructed? Where does 
iron ore occur, and what iron works have been erected ? Give an account 
of the steam engines, machine shops, mills, &c. To what parts of the 
county are agricultural operations chiefly confined ? Where does the pro- 
duce of the farms find a market ? What public improvements are situated 
partly within the county ? What rail roads wholly within it ? What turn- 
pike passes through it ? What is said of the state of education, schools, 
and academies ? Of what people were the early settlers, and by whom 
has the population been greatly augmented ? 

48. Somerset County. 

Somerset county has Cambria on the north, Bedford on the east, 
the state of Maryland on the south, and Fayette and Westmore- 
land on the west. Its population in 1840 was 19,650. 

The face of the country is varied, being in some parts moun- 
tainous, in others hilly, — a considerable portion is rolling and un- 
even, while some tracts have a comparatively level surface. There 
is also considerable variety in the character of the soil : the south- 
ern part of the county being generally considered the best for the 
growth of wheat and indian corn, while the middle and north pro- 
duce good crops of oats, potatoes and grass. The whole county 
is well adapted to grazing and the keeping of cattle and sheep ; 
there are many extensive dairy farms which produce large quan- 
tities of excellent butter. 

The Allegheny mountain forms part of the eastern boundary 
of Somerset, and then ranges through the south-eastern part of the 



348 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

county. In the south-eastern corner, the Little Allegheny and 
Savage mountains pass northward from Maryland and unite in a 
point near the Bedford county line, north of Wills' creek. In the 
south, Negro mountain extends northward from the state line and 
terminates a few miles south of the town of Somerset. The high 
ridge called Laurel hill is the western boundary as far south as 
to the Youghiogeny river. 

Nearly the whole of Somerset belongs to the bituminous coal formation, 
and is separated into several basins by anticlinal axes, or lines of elevation 
along the mountain ridges, which bring up the rocks below the coal in these 
elevations, where the strata may be seen in the form of an arch, dipping on 
each side towards the centre of the basins between the ridges. In the gaps 
made by the passage of the larger streams through these mountains, the 
red shales and sandstones (XI) next below the pebbly conglomerate (XII) 
are seen, containing in many places a valuable bed of limestone, which 
sometimes contains impressions of shells, encrini, and other fossils. The 
conglomerate rock is usually found along the sides of the mountains, some- 
times extending to the summits ; and along the base the lower coal beds 
appear above it as it dips beneath them. 

In the rough irregular valley between the Little Allegheny and Savage 
mountain, the Cumberland or Frostburg coal basin extends northward into 
Pennsylvania, being about 5 miles wide on the state line, and terminating 
in a point near Wills' creek, six or seven miles from the line. The upper 
coal bed is here about eight feet thick, occupying a position near the sum- 
mit of a high ridge which extends nearly through the middle of the valley. 
It has been worked in several places, and yields coal of a very superior 
quality. Below this are a number of other coal seams from three to five 
feet thick, which show their outcrops in different places in the valley. Iron 
ore also occurs in the slates and shales between the coal beds. 

The belt of country between Savage mountain and the Great Allegheny 
is occupied by red shale and sandstone rocks. Between the Allegheny 
and Negro mountains is another coal basin, extending northward by Ber- 
lin to the head waters of Shade creek, and thence into Cambria county. 
On some of the higher ridges in the southern part of this basin, we find a 
bed of coal nine feet thick, which is supposed to be identical with the great 
seam in Ligonier valley and with that worked at Pittsburg. This is the 
highest coal seam in the basin, and below it are several others, which though 
not equal to it in magnitude, are of sufficient thickness to be profitably 
worked. Several strata of good limestone occur between the coal beds; 
and about the falls on Elk-Uck creek and in several other places are pro- 
mising indications of iron ore. In the neighbourhood of BerUn, several of 
the lower coal beds are worked for the supply of the town and its vicinity, 
being here from three to five feet thick, accompanied by iron ore and an 
impure limestone. Further northward, on Stony creek, in the neighbour- 
hood of Stoystown, and on Shade creek, are innumerable openings into 
productive coal beds ; but the demand for coal in this region being limited 
merely to the inconsiderable supply required for domestic consumption, 
but little has yet been done towards developing the extent of its mineral 
wealth. Not far from the mouth of Wells' creek, and in the same neigh- 
bourhood on Stony creek, are locaUties of iron ore which may prove valu- 
able and important. Ore is also found in considerable quantity on Shade 
creek, where a furnace has been erected for the purpose of working it. 
Bog ore frequently occurs in beds on the surface along the eastern side of 
this basin, on the western slope of the Allegheny mountain. 

In the western coal basin of the county, between the axis of Negro 
mountain and that of Laurel hill, though we do not find the great upper 
coal seam seen on the highest hills in the basin on the east, and also in 
Ligonier valley on the west ; yet so numerous are the outcrops of the lower 



SOMERSET COUNTY. > 349 

beds in the hills along Castleman's river, Laurel hill creek, and other 
streams in different parts of the basin, as to show the abundant and inex- 
haustible character of the coal deposits in this part of the county. Iron 
ore is abundant in many places along the east side of Laurel hill, and has 
been mined near the head of Garey's run for the supply of Fayette furnace, 
on Indian creek, west of Laurel hill. 

The Y(mghios;eny river, flowing northward from Maryland, 
forms the western boundary of this county as far as to its passage 
through Laurel hill, above which it receives the waters of Castle- 
man's river from the east, and of Laurel hill creek from the north. 
The union of these three streams at the same point is called the 
'' turkey foot" from their fancied resemblance to the three toes of 
a bird's foot, and Turkey-foot township has been so named from 
this circumstance. Elk-lick and Buffalo creeks are tributaries of 
Castleman's river; Cox's creek flows southward to the same river 
from near the town of Somerset. Stony creek is a large stream, 
rising in the eastern part of the county, and flowing northward 
to the Conemaugh at Johnstown. Shade creek rises by numerous 
branches in the wilderness region on the west of the Allegheny 
mountain, in the north-east of the county, and running westward 
empties into Stony creek. Quemahoning is also a branch of Stony 
creek, in the north, flowing north-eastward from the foot of 
Laurel hill. In the south-east are the head waters of Wills' creek, 
a branch of the Potomac. Near the summit of the great Alle- 
gheny, north-east of Berlin, are springs within a short distance of 
one another, the waters of which find their way to the ocean 
through the Susquehanna, by way of the Raystown branch and 
the Juniata; through the Potomac, by way of Wills' creek; 
through the Ohio by both of its brancJbes, the Monongahela by 
way of Buffalo creek, Castleman's river and the Youghiogeny, — 
and' the Allegheny, by way of Stony creek and the Conemaugh. 

Somerset, the county town, has a nearly central position, and is 
situated on the turnpike from Bedford to Mount Pleasant, Wash- 
ington, and Wheeling. It has about 650 inhabitants, and con • 
tains a court house, county oflaces, prison, academy and several 
churches. 

Berlin, eight miles south-east of Somerset, is an incorporated 
borough, with upwards of 500 inhabitants. Smythjield (Somer- 
field P. O.) is a village on the east side of the Youghiogeny, where 
that river is crossed by the National turnpike. Four miles east of 
this, on the National road near the Maryland line, is Petersburg 
(Addison P. O.) also a considerable village. Stoystown, a borough 
with a population of 357, is near Stony creek, on the Bedford and 
Pittsburg turnpike. The other principal villages are Jennerville 
in the north-west, Milford in the west, and Shanksville in the east. 

The agricultural products are wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, corn, 
potatoes, flax, wool, &c. Great numbers of cattle and sheep are 
reared by the farmers, and large quantities of excellent butter from 
this county are sent to the eastern cities for sale. Nearly 300,000 
pounds of maple sugar are made annually. On Stony creek is a 
furnace and a forge for the manufacture of iron ; and other branches 

30 



350 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

of manufactures are established in different parts of the county, 
chiefly for the production of articles for domestic use. 

Owing to the elevated position of this region the winters are 
usually severe ; but the climate is remarkable for its general salu- 
brity. The summers are much cooler than in counties but little 
above the tide level : frost is not uncommon in June and early in 
September. 

Three of the leading turnpike roads from east to west pass 
through Somerset county. The National road crosses the south- 
western corner ; the turnpike from Bedford to Mount Pleasant, &c., 
passes through the middle ; and in the north is the main turnpike 
from Philadelphia by Harrisburg, Chambersburg, Bedford and 
Greensburg to Pittsburg. There is also a turnpike leading south- 
eastward from the town of Somerset, by Berlin, to Cumberland in 
Maryland, from which point a rail road extends to Baltimore. 

The general condition of education is not very flourishing, but 
is believed to be in a state of gradual improvement. Some parts 
of the county are thinly settled and schools are not easily main- 
tained. There are in all 18 school districts, of which 12 have ac- 
cepted the provisions of the common school law, and 9 have made 
report, showing that they have 56 schools established, and that 
the average time of instruction is little more than 4 months in the 
year. 

A large proportion of the population is of German descent, 
mostly from the eastern counties ; and the German language is 
commonly spoken. In the southern and south-eastern townships 
are numbers of inhabitants who speak little or no English. They 
are generally a plain, frugal, industrious people, obedient to the 
laws, minding their own business, and attentive to their moral and 
religious duties. 

How is Somerset bounded ? What is the character of the surface ? — of 
the soil? To what purpose is it adapted ? Describe the mountains on the 
east and south-east, — in the south and west. To what geological forma- 
tion does most of this county belong ? How is it separated into basins ? 
What rock formations appear in the mountain ridges? Describe the coal 
beds in the basin between Little Allegheny and Savage mountains. What 
other valuable mineral occurs here ? What rocks occupy the region be- 
tween Savage mountain and the Great Allegheny ? Describe the coal ba- 
sin between Allegheny and Negro mountains. What is said of the coal 
beds in this basin ?— of the limestone and iron ore ? At \vhat different 
places are all these valuable mineral products found ? What is said of the 
western coal basin of the county ? Where is iron ore abundant ? What 
rivers are in this county ? From what is Turkey-foot township named ? 
What creeks empty into Castleman's river ? Which are tributaries of the 
Conemaugh? Into what river does Wills' creek empty? What is said 
of the various courses to the ocean, of streams rising on the Allegheny near 
Berhn ? How is Somerset, the county town, situated ? Mention the other 
principal towns, and their situation. What are the chief products of farm- 
mg industry ? What is the amount of maple sugar made in a year ? What 
is said of the manufactures generally? Describe the climate. What three 
turnpike roads cross the county? What is the general condition of educa- 
tion ; number of schools, &.C.? What people compose most of the popu- 
lation ; and what is said of their language, and their character for industry 
and morality ? 



SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY. 351 

49. SUSQ,UEHANNA CoUNTY. 

Susquehanna county adjoins the state of New York on the 
Rorth ; Wayne county on the east; Luzerne and Wyoming on the 
south ; and Bradford on the west. The number of inhabitants in 
1840, was 21,195. 

The surface is hilly and uneven, approaching to mountainous 
in the eastern part ; but the hills are in general neither high nor 
precipitous, being chiefly ridges extending between the streams, 
and susceptible of cultivation on their sides and summits. Elk 
mountain, in the eastern part of the county, is the most elevated 
point of land in north-eastern Pennsylvania ; its summit being 
about 2000 feet above the level of the sea. From the top of this 
mountain is afforded a most extensive and magnificent prospect of 
the surrounding country, embracing not only the whole of this 
county, with its broken and irregular surface of hills and dales, — 
its variegated forests and cultivated fields, its meandering streams 
and glistening lakes ; but all the surrounding region from the bold 
sweep of the Susquehanna river on the north and west, to the 
Blue ridge and the towering Kaatskill on the south and east. 

In the north-eastern part of the county, bordering on the Sus- 
quehanna, there are some ridges of waste and sterile land ; but in 
general, though there is little of that level and highly fertile soil 
Avhich abounds in other parts of the State, yet there is little Avaste 
land that may not be cultivated for grain or grass, and much that 
may be rendered productive to a considerable degree. 

The geological features of this county are remarkably simple and uni- 
form. In the northern part are the upper strata of the olive slate formation 
(VIII,) containing layers of grayish sandstone, and some slightly calcareous 
bands of rock which are filled with impressions of shells and various other 
fossil remains. In Choconut township, in the north-western corner of the 
county, is a bed of rock 10 or 12 feet thick, so calcareous as to yield a rough 
gray lime when burned, which may prove useful for agricultural purposes. 
The rock strata in the northern part of the county have a very gentle gene- 
ral inclination towards the south, and in that direction pass beneath the 
overlying red shales and reddish and grayish sandstones (IX) of the next 
superior series, which extend in nearly horizontal strata of thin, fiat layers, 
over nearly the whole of the middle and southern parts of the county. The 
south-eastern corner, being near the northern point of the Lackawana coal 
basin, probably contains some of the higher formations approaching the 
coal series ; but if the county reaches far enough in this direction to include 
any portion of the coal basin, it must be of very limited extent. 

The JYorth Branch of the Susquehanna river enters the north- 
eastern corner of this county, and making a short turn at the Great 
Bend, returns by a north-western course again into the state of 
New York, where it takes a circuitous sweep around to the west 
a,nd south, returning again into Pennsylvania in Bradford county, 
a few n^iles west of the north-western corner of Susquehanna. 
The south-eastern portion of the county is mostly drained by 
Tunkhannoek creek and its tributaries. Martinis creek, Hopbottom, 
&c., flowing south-westward to the Susquehanna. In the north are 
Salt-lick, Snake and Cfwconut creeks ; in the west, Wyalming with 



352 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

its numerous branches j and in the south-west the Meshoppen. All 
these, with numerous other streams, afford plenty of good mill 
seats, and every part of the county abounds with clear, cold 
springs and brooks of excellent and pure water. 

The varied and romantic beauties of the natural scenery in this 
county are much improved by the number of small lakes which 
are found in almost every township, and whose crystal waters, 
gleaming in the light of the setting sun, like polished mirrors 
amidst the dark shadows of the surrounding woods, give life and 
brilliancy to the picture. On the margin of one of these beautiful 
sheets of water, called Silver lake, 8 miles north of Montrose, is 
the elegant mansion of the late Dr. Rose, one of the early settlers 
of the county, an extensive landed proprietor, who aided much in 
bringing this region into notice, and promoting its rapid settlement. 

A number of the streams are precipitated over high ledges of 
horizontal rocks and form waterfalls of remarkably picturesque 
and beautiful appearance. Silver creek, on its passage through a 
high ridge into the valley of Snake creek, forms a succession of 
cascades, some of which are 50 feet high ; and at the foot of the 
lower fall the banks rise precipitously from the stream to the height 
of 200 feet, fringed at the top and on each side with tall hemlocks, 
forming a singularly wild, deep and dark romantic glen, into which 
the cheerful light of day scarcely finds an entrance. On Cascade 
creek, in Harmony township near the Great Bend of Susquehanna, 
is a beautiful waterfall which is frequently visited by the ad- 
mirers of wild and picturesque scenery. The stream falls about 
30 feet over a ledge of rocks, the horizontal strata presenting a 
series of regular gradations like the steps of an elevated portico. 
Near this, another stream precipitates itself from an elevation of 
more than 100 feet, and is converted into glittering spray long be- 
fore it reaches the bottom. 

The climate, though subject to considerable extremes of heat 
and cold, is esteemed as being remarkably healthy. At Silver lake 
the mercury in winter sometimes falls to 15 or 20° below zero, and 
in summer rises to 94°. The elevated position of the country ren- 
ders it liable to some high winds and violent storms, as well as 
sudden changes of temperature. The winters usually last from the 
middle of November until the beginning of April ; but when spring 
opens the progress of vegetation is rapid : the summer air among 
the hills is peculiarly delightful and salubrious. 

Montrose, the county town, occupies a nearly central position, 
and is situated at the intersection of several important turnpikes 
and mail routes, where daily stages meet from the north and south, 
and from the east and west. The streets are wide and commodious, 
but owing to the unevenness of the ground, are somewhat irregu- 
larly laid out. The public buildings are a court house, a stone 
fire proof edifice for county offices, a bank, an academy and four 
houses for public worship. The houses are generally built of wood ; 
mostly painted white and presenting a neat appearance ; the whole 
place, as has been frequently remarked, much resembles a New 
England country village. The number of inhabitants is about 700. 



SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY. 353 

Dwidaff, in the south-eastern corner of the county, is an incor- 
porated borough with upAv^ards of 300 inhabitants. New Milford 
and Great Bend are villages in the north; Friendsville in the 
north-west ; Springville in the south, and Harford in the south- 
east. 

Agricultural pursuits form the prevalent occupation of the in- 
habitants and employ the greatest portion of the population. The 
soil and climate seem to be peculiarly adapted to the growth of 
oats and potatoes, of which large and superior crops are produced. 
Wheat and rye succeed best on newly cleared lands ; Indian corn 
is raised to some advantage in certain situations, but in general is 
not so successful as other crops. As a grazing country, for the 
Tearing of cattle and sheep, »^usquehanna county is exceeded in 
natural advantages by few portions of the State. Increasing at- 
tention is given to the making of butter and cheese ; there being 
already a number of thriving dairy farmers established here from 
Orange county. New York. They, with the frugal and thrifty 
settlers from New England, will soon render this county famous 
for its butter and cheese. Wool growing has become an import- 
ant branch of business ; the number of sheep kept in the county 
being upwards of 72,000, from which more than 121,000 pounds 
of wool are annually produced. 

Sugar maple trees are abundant m the forests, and sugar is ex- 
tensively manufactured. In 1840 the product of this article was 
252,137 pounds. The other most common kinds of timber are 
hemlock, beech, birch, cherry, chestnut, ash, bass-wood, &c. Oak 
is most common on the hills about the river. Pine grows along 
the river and larger streams, from which lumber is produced to 
some extent : this, together with the oak, cherry, curled maple, 
SiC, annually sent to market, is estimated to be worth $40,000. 
The lumber tinds a market chiefly by the Susquehanna and Dela- 
ware rivers; cattle and sheep are driven to New York and New 
Jersey for sale; the surplus products of agriculture are sold to a 
considerable amount at Carbondale for the support of the nume- 
rous population about the coal mines at that place. 

The assessed value of real and personal property, subject to 
county taxation for 1842, was $2,522,362: county tax $7,716: 
State tax $2,980. 

There are no canals or rail roads in the county, though the 
North Branch division of the State canal on the south, and the 
Chenango canal on the north, approach sufficiently near to benefit 
the trade of the county when they shall be completed. The great 
New York and Erie rail road will pass near on the north, if not ul- 
timately laid through part of this county ; permission for which has 
been granted by the legislature. Several turnpike roads cross the 
county in various directions. One in the north-east, from Belmont 
to Harmony, and another from Belmont to Great Bend. One 
through the county from south-east to north-Vvrest, passing from 
Carbondale through Dundaff and Montrose to Owego on the Sus- 
quehanna; which is intersected at Montrose by the turnpike from 
Wilkesbarre, through Tunkhannock, Slc. Beside these there are 

30* 



354 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

some others either completed or partly constructed between differ- 
ent points. 

In this, as in others of our northern counties which have been 
settled chiefly by families from the Eastern states, education re- 
ceives more attention, and schools are better established than in 
most other parts of the State. There are 23 school districts in the 
county, all of which accepted the provisions of the law regulating 
the common school system, soon after its passage. In 21 of these 
districts which have reported, there are 185 schools established for 
instruction according to the provisions of the law, which are kept 
open, on a general average, nearly six months in the year. There 
are two incorporated academies : the Susquehanna academy at 
Montrose has recently assumed a very promising condition ; and 
the Franklin academy at Harford has also attained a creditable re- 
putation. 

There are 28 houses for public worship : nine of which belong 
to Presbyterians, six to Baptists, three Episcopal, three Methodist, 
two Roman Catholic, two Universalist, one Friends, and two 
built by various denominations united. In a large number of 
cases, small congregations who have not the means of erecting 
churches, hold their meetings for worship in school houses. 

How is Susquehanna county bounded ? What is the character of the 
surface ? Describe Elk mountain and the prospect from it. What is said 
of the productive character of the county ? Give an account of the general 
geological features and rock formations. Where is an impure limestone 
found? Describe the course of the North branch of Susquehanna. What 
creeks are in the south-east ? — in the north? — in the west and south-west ? 
What is said of the lakes? Where is Silver lake ? Describe the water- 
falls on Silver creek and Cascade creek. What is said of the climate? 
Give a description of Montrose, its situation, public buildings, &c. What 
other towns are mentioned ? What is said of the agriculture of this county 
and its principal productions ? Mention its advantages as a grazing coun- 
try, and for producing butter, cheese, &c. What is the number of sheep, 
and the amount of wool annually produced ? Notice the prevailing kinds 
of timber, and the amount of maple sugar made. Where do the surplus 
productions find a market ? What rail roads and canals will benefit this 
county, though not within it ? Mention the various turnpike roads. What 
is said of the attention paid to education, and of the number of schools, aca- 
demies, &c. ? How many houses for public worship are there, and to 
what religious denominations do they belong ? 

50. Tioga County. 

Tioga county adjoins the State of New York on the north, 
Bradford on the east, Lycoming and Clinton on the south, and 
Potter on the west. Population, 15,498. 

The face of the country resembles that of the northern line of 
counties generally, being no where mountainous, but hilly and 
uneven; deeply furrowed by the channels of the streams, with 
steep and rough acclivities rising to the upland. 

The soil of the bottom lands in the valleys of the streams is of 
superior quality ; that on the hills is less productive, but yields good 
pasturage and tolerable crops of grain when well cultivated. 



TIOGA COUNTY. 355 

Nearly the whole of this county is occupied by the olive slates, red shales 
and sanastones of the formations below the coal series. In the neighbour- 
hood ol Blossburg, however, on the Tioga river near its source, is a coal 
basin several miles in extent, in which the deep channels of the streams 
have cut through and exposed numerous successive beds of coal, fire clay 
and u-on ore, belonging to the lower portion of the bituminous coal forma- 
tion. Iron works have been erected at Blossburg, and a rail road con- 
structed to Corning in the State of New York, in order to afford an outlet 
for the mineral treasures of this district. 

The Tioga river runs northward from this county into the State 
of New York, and then turning to the east and south-east, re-enters 
Pennsylvania in Bradford county and unites with the North branch 
of Susquehanna. Covjanesque is a considerable stream in the north 
of the county, flowing eastward to the Tioga. In the soulh-west 
is Pine creek, running southward to the West branch of Susque- 
hanna. All these streams are navigable for rafts of lumber and 
arks at high water. 

Extensive forests of pine, hemlock, oak, beech, sugar maple 
and other timber cover a large portion of the county. Lumber is 
the staple production and about 1.50 saw-mills are in operation for 
its manufacture. About 200,000 pounds of maple sugar, and 50 
tons of pot and pearl ash are made annually. Agriculture is im- 
proving, and wheat, corn and other grains are successfully culti- 
vated: oats and potatoes thrive particularly well, the soil and 
climate appearing to be congenial to their growth. 

Wellshoro is the seat of justice, situated nearly in the centre of the 
county, containing a population of about 400, and having the 
usual county buildings, such as court-house, prison, academy, &c., 
with several places of public worship. 

The other towns and villages are small : the principal are Tioga, 
Covington, Blossburg, Lawrenceville, Elkland, Knoxville and 
Mansfield. 

Common schools are established in nearly all the districts, 23 in 
number, of which 22 have accepted the law, and 20 made report 
to the superintendent in 1842, showing that there were then 126 
schools in operation, the average number of months taught being 
5^ in the year. The academy at Wellsboro is reported to contain 
135 pupils. 

Of the various religious denominations, Methodists, Presbyterians 
and Baptists are most numerous. The religious and moral cha- 
racter of the population is improving: industry, sobriety and good 
order being now generally prevalent. 

Tioga, like most of the northern counties, was settled chiefly 
by adventurers from the New England states, and the peculiar 
language, habits and manners of that people still prevail to a con- 
siderable degree among the inhabitants. 

What are the boundaries of Tioga? Describe the face of the country? 
What is the quality of the soil ? What rock formations occupy most of the 
county ? What valuable minerals are found in the neighbourhood of Bloss- 
burg ? What works have been constructed in order to give value to the 
mineral products of this region ? Describe the course of Tioga river. 
Name the other principal streams and their direction. What is said of the 



356 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

forests and the production of lumber ? State the amount of maple sugar 
and potash made. Mention the improvement of agriculture and its pro- 
ducts Name the county town and how situated. What other places are 
mentioned ? What is said of the schools ? — Of the religious denominations 
and the moral character of the people ? By whom was the county prin- 
cipally settled ? 

51. Union County. 

Union county has Lycoming on the north ; the river Susque- 
hanna on the east, separating it from Northumberland ; Juniata 
county on the south ; and Miiflin and Centre on the west. Popu- 
lation 22,787. 

The White Deer mountain forms the northern boundary ; south 
of this is Buffalo mountain ; in the west is Jack's mountain, ex- 
tending half across the county; and in the south. Shade mountain, 
terminating a few miles west of the Susquehanna. The southern 
part is much broken by small ridges and ranges of hills, and with 
the exception of the bottom land along ihe Susquehanna and the 
small valleys of Middle creek, Musser^s, and Klopperdahl, the soil 
is but of moderate quality. These valleys, together with Buffalo, 
White Deer and Dry valleys in the north, have principally a cal- 
careous soil of a very fertile character, and admirably adapted to 
agriculture. 

The general geological character of the county may be understood from 
the following brief sketch. Shade, Jack's, Buffalo an(i White Deer moun- 
tains contain the hard sandstone (IV) usually found in the higher ridges of 
the Appalachian portion of the State. Between Jack's mountain on the 
south and Buffalo and White Deer on the north, is the overlying series (V) 
of red and variegated shales, containing bands of hmestone, sandstone, and 
the fossihferous iron ore : this formation extends to the West branch of the 
Susquehanna, spreading out over most of White Deer and Buffalo valleys, 
and also the valley of Penn's creek north of Jack's mountain. Folding 
round the end of Jack's mountain, it is seen along the southern side, ex- 
tending into Mifflin county. The same formation may be seen on both 
sides of Shade mountain, meeting at its eastern end and extending towards 
Sehnsgrove. The limestone (VI) next above in order, is the rock of the 
limestone ridges which extend through the valley between Jack's and Shade 
mouniain ; the upper portion being very silicious, and containing beds of 
chert or flint, the angular fragments of which cover the surface in many 
places. The coarse fossiliferous sandstone (VII) is scarcely seen in its pro- 
per place above the limestone, appearing to thin out towards the Susque- 
hanna. At Blue hill on the Susquehanna, opposite Northumberland, and 
extendinsT for some distance both up and down the river, are the red and 
gray sandstones and shales of the formations (VIII and IX) next above those 
last mentioned ; their lower beds being bordered by the limestone ridges 
on the north and south of them, as they range south-westward. Another 
triangular territory is occupied by these slates and sandstones, extending o;i 
the Susquehanna from the hmestone below Selinsgrove to that nearly op- 
posite Geor<ietovvn. and narrowing to a point south-westward. 

The red fossiliferous iron ore which is so abundant on Montour's ridge, 
in the neighbourhood of Danville and other places, is prolonged in the same 
range ac;ross the West branch into Union county, being found about the 
mouth of Turtle run. Its thickness, however, appears to diminish as we 
trace it south-westward : it is found at several other places in Union county, 
but not yet in sufficient quantity to be valuable. Some of the lower calca- 



UNION COUNTY. 357 

reous beds of the olive slate formation (VIII) seem to be well adapted for 
furnishing a good hydraulic cement. 

The TVest branch of Susquehanna washes the eastern side of 
this county to its junction with the North branch at the town of 
Northumberland^ from which the Susquehanna continues to the 
southern line of the county. The other large streams are Penn's 
creek, flowing eastward nearly through the middle of the county ; 
Buffalo and White Deer creeks in the north ; and Middle and West 
Mahontongo creeks in the south ; all running eastward to the Sus- 
quehanna, and with their numerous branches affording water 
power for the many mills erected on their banks. 

In describing the towns in Union county, it is proper to observe 
that most of them, like many others in different parts of the State, 
have two names, being called indifferently by either, thus pro- 
ducing by this absurd practice much confusion and embarrass- 
ment to strangers. 

JVew Berlin (Longstown) is the seat of justice, situated on Penn's 
creek, rather in the eastern part of the county, having a popula- 
tion of nearly 700. The court house and county offices are of 
brick, the prison of stone ; there are also two churches and two 
public school houses. 

Lewisburg (Derrstown) on the West branch, at the mouth of 
Buffalo creek, is a flourishing town with upwards of 1200 inhabi- 
tants, and being the point whence much of the produce of the sur- 
rounding country is shipped on the West branch canal through a 
side cut leading to the town, is a place of considerable business. 

Mifflinsburg (Youngmanstown) is in Buffalo valley, with a 
population of about 700; and Hartleyton is in the same valley, 
about 5 miles further westward. Selinsgrove is on the Susquehanna 
near the mouth of Penn's creek, which uniting with Middle creek, 
enters the Susquehanna by two outlets, and thus, with the river, 
encloses the island of Q,ue, on which is a village called Charles- 
town, separated from the town of Selinsgrove by Back creek, or 
the united stream of Penn's and Middle creeks. 

Middleburg (Swinefordstown), Swiftstoivn and Adamsburg are 
in the valley of Middle creek ; and Freeburg (Stroupstown) in 
Kiopperdahl, south-west of Selinsgrove. New Columbia is in the 
northern part of the county, on the West branch below the mouth 
of White Deer creek. 

This is one of the finest agricultural counties in the State. 
Wheat and flour are the great staple productions ; indian corn, 
rye, oats, clover-seed, beef, pork, &c. are also sold annually to a 
considerable amount, — the soil of these fertile valleys yielding a 
large surplus beyond what is necessary to support the inhabitants. 
The culture of tobacco has been recently introduced upon the rich 
bottom land along the river, and is likely to prove profitable. 

The manufactures, except for domestic use, are not important. 
There are some small woollen factories; a forge on Penn's creek; 
two or three iron foundries ; and a number of establishments for 
making carriages, wagons and farming implements 



358 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The value of property assessed for county taxes in 1842,' 
amounted to $6,115,066 ; county tax $6,820; State tax $8,814. 

The Susquehanna division of the State canal extends along the 
eastern side of the county to Northumberland, where the tow-path 
crosses the West branch by a beautiful bridge, over which there is 
also a carriage way. The West Branch canal being on the east 
side of the river, a side cut extends from Lewisburg in this county 
to the pool formed by a dam in the river, and thus communicates 
with the canal. 

A turnpike road extends from Lewisburg by Mifflinsburg, and 
Hartleyton to Aaronsburg and Bellefonte in Centre county ; being 
a link in the turnpike from Philadelphia to Erie, through Reading, 
Pottsvilie, Sunbury, Northumberland, Lewisburg, Bellefonte, 
Franklin and Meadville, — the only part of which now unfinished 
is from Sunbury to Lewisburg, a distance of nine miles. There 
are three bridges across the West branch of Susquehanna within 
the bounds of Union county ; the State bridge at Northumber- 
land, and two company bridges in which the State holds stock, one 
of them at Lewisburg and the other at Milton. Bridges have been 
erected by the county at most places where the principal streams 
are crossed by the main public roads. 

Education has been much neglected. A large proportion of the 
inhabitants are Germans, who regard the cultivation of the soil as 
being of more importance than the cultivation of the mind ; and 
consider the accumulation of wealth more desirable than the ac- 
quisition of knowledge. The county contains 16 school districts, 
only 7 of which have accepted the law establishing the common 
school system. In the accepting districts 31 schools are reported 
as being in operation, which are kept open 5 months in the year. 

This county was originally settled by people from Chester and 
Cumberland counties, and some from New Jersey. The fertility 
of the soil and the general excellence of the country for agricultural 
pursuits, soon attracted the German farmers to establish themselves 
in the rich valleys ; and at the present day they form a large por- 
tion of the population. The German language is common 
throughout the county, but the English is also understood and 
spoken when necessary, by nearly all the inhabitants of German 
descent. 

There are nearly 30 places of public worship, belonging to va- 
rious religious societies, the most numerous of which are Presby- 
terians, Lutherans, German Reformed and Methodists. 

How is Union county bounded •? Name the principal mountains. What 
is said of the face of the country, and the soil of the valleys. Describe the 
range of the principal rock formations. What is said of the red fossihferous 
iron ore in this county ? What river runs along the eastern side? Mention 
the other considerable streams. How is the county town situated, and what 
pubHc buildings does it contain ? Where is Lewisburg, and what is said of 
its trade, &.C.? What towns are in Buffalo valley ? Where is Sehnsgrove ? 
What other places are mentioned? What is said of the agriculture of this 
county, and its productions? — of the manufactures? Mention the canals in 
or adjacent to Union county. What turnpike road, and bridges ? To what 
may be attributed the neglect of education ? What is said of the common 



VENANGO COUNTY. 359 

schools ? By whom was the county originally settled ? What language is 
commonly spoken ? Name the principal religious societies. 

52. Venango County. 

Venango county is bounded north-west and north by Crawford 
and Warren, east by Jefferson, south-east by Clarion, south by 
Butler and west by Mercer, Its population, exclusive of that por- 
tion now included in Clarion, is about 14,320. 

The country presents an uneven surface, being intersected by 
deep and narrow valleys of fertile bottom land along the streams, 
with steep and often rocky hills ascending to the level of the roll- 
ing table land which extends between the streams. This upland 
is generally fit for cultivation, and much of it would be excellent 
for grazing. 

The Allegheny river passes through the whole breadth of this 
county, having a course generally south-west to the town of 
Franklin, where ii turns to the south-east and flows in a meander- 
ing direction to the southern limit of Venango. At Franklin this 
river receives the waters of French creek from the north-west, and 
5 or 6 miles above. Oil creek empties into it from the north. Teo- 
nista is a considerable stream in the north-east, flowing south- 
westward to the Allegheny. All these streams are navigable for 
many miles for flat boats and rafts of lumber descending. A mul- 
titude of smaller streams water this region, among which are Sugar, 
Sandy, Scrubgrass, Hemlock, Rackoon and other creeks, whose 
waters are sufficient to propel any kind of machinery even in the 
driest seasons. Pure and limpid springs gush from the hills in 
abuiidance, and some are found having their waters impregnated 
with mineral substances. 

Oil creek derives its name from the substance called Seneca oil, 
which rises in bubbles from the bed of the stream, and on reach- 
ing the top of the water these bubbles explode, leaving the oil 
floating on the surface. Though this oil is found in many places 
throughout the whole course of the stream, it is most abundant 
two or three miles from the mouth, where several of the owners 
of the land make a business of collecting the oil during the dry 
season, as it is most plentiful at low water. A dam of loose stones 
is raised a little higher than the surface of the water, 10 or 15 
feet in diameter around those places where the oil rises ; an eddy 
is thus created inside of the wall which confines the floating oil, 
while the water passes freely between the loose stones. The oil is 
thus suffered to accumulate for one, two or three days, until it be- 
comes an inch or more in depth ; a piece of flannel or blanket is 
then spread over it which absorbs the oil, and it is afterwards 
wrung from the cloth into a barrel or some other vessel. The wa- 
ter which may be raised with it is drained off" through a small 
hole at the bottom of the vessel. From two to ten or twelve bar- 
rels are collected in a season by each of the proprietors ; the quan- 
tity depending upon the prevalence of dry weather and low water. 

In the low grounds along this creek, oil may be obtained by dig- 



360 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

ging to a level with the bottom of the stream, but when thus pro- 
cured it is not so pure and clean as that taken upon the surface 
of the creek. This mode of obtaining it has evidently been prac- 
tised by the Indians, or some other people, long before the white 
man set his foot upon the soil of this region. Places of four or 
five acres in extent may still be seen, where holes have been dug 
in the ground from six to twelve feet in diameter, close together, 
being yet from two to four feet deep, and having trees standing in 
many of them of upwards of 100 years' growth. On the settle- 
ment of this part of the country, some of the oldest Indian resi- 
deuts were questioned respecting these excavations, but were un- 
able to give any information concerning them. 

The medicinal qualities of this oil have been much extolled. 
Forty or fifty years ago it was sold at 16 dollars per gallon; but 
its present price in Pittsburg is from 75 cents to $1. It burns 
well in lamps, though it emits a heavy black smoke and a strong 
bituminous odour, which to many persons is disagreeable. 

Venango county lies on the northern border of the great bituminous coal 
field, and valuable beds of coal occur in many places m the southern por- 
tion of its territory. In the slates and shales of the lower strata ot the 
coal measures, nodular argillaceous iron ore is found in considerable quan- 
tity ; and numerous and valuable deposits of bog ore exist in other parts of 
the county. The productive developement of these mineral resources has 
already excited considerable attention, and 17 furnaces are in operation for 
the making of pig iron and castings from the ore of this region. Sand- 
stone admirably adapted to the construction of furnaces is abundant, and 
some varieties of it are proper for the manufacture of glass. 

Franklin, the county town, is situated at the confluence of 
French creek with the Allegheny, and contains about 600 inhabit- 
ants. The court-house and prison are built of stone ; there is 
also an academy and three churches, — one belonging to the Me- 
thodists, one to the Presbyterians, — the other was built for Episco- 
palians but is now occupied by Cumberland Presbyterians. 

Utica, seven miles from Frankhn, on French creek, has grist, 
saw, and fuUing mills; an iron foundry, &c. Cooperstown, on 
Sugar creek, seven miles from Franklin, contains a woollen fac- 
tory where carding, spinning, weaving, fuUing and dyeing are car- 
ried on ; also grist and saw mills. Sunville, Dempseytowii, Per- 
rysville, Waterloo, Clintonville and Teonista are villages in dif- 
ferent parts of the county. 

The agricultural productions are wheat, rye, corn, oats, buck- 
wheat, potatoes, &c. 'The soil is naturally favourable to the growth 
of grasses, such as timothy and red top : clover is also cultivated 

successfullv. 

Iron is the principal article of manufacture. Grist and saw 
mills are numerous, with some oil mills, and there are several 
establishments for the production of woollen goods, chiefly for 
home consumption. 

Timber is abundant both in quantity and variety, consisting of 
various kinds of oak, chestnut, hickory, beech, sugar maple, wild 
cherry, poplar, black and white walnut, pine and hemlock. 



VENANGO COUNTY. 361 

Assessed valuation of property in 1842, $1,219,595: county- 
tax $6,310: State tax $1,459. 

That division of the Pennsylvania canal called the Franklin line 
passes along the Allegheny river to Franklin, the county town, 
and thence extends up French creek to Meadville in Crawford 
county. 

Several turnpike roads pass through Venango. It has about 
26 miles of the Susquehanna and Waterford turnpike, which forms 
the nearest route from Harrisburg to Erie by way of Lewistown, 
Bellefonte, Clearfield, Brookville, Clarion, Franklin, Meadville and 
Waterford to Erie. Of the turnpike from Franklin to Butler and 
Pittsburg, it has 18 miles. The Franklin and Warren turnpike 
passes 24 miles through Venango, Franklin is 25 miles from 
Mercer, 25 from Meadville, 40 from Butler, 28 from Clarion and 
51 from Warren, — all county towns of the adjoining counties. 

Venango contains 17 school districts, all of which have accepted 
the provisions of the law regulating common schools. Instruction 
is given in 108 schools during an average period of about 4 
months in the year ; a time much too limited to develope the bene- 
fits of the system. A considerable portion of the county being 
comparatively new, and thinly settled, we may hope for improve- 
ment in the means of education as the country becomes more 
populous. 

Of the religious societies the Presbyterians and Methodists are 
most numerous : there are some Baptists, a few Mormons, and 
several others of various persuasions. 

The territory of this county was originally included in West- 
moreland, and after the erection of Allegheny county it was within 
its limits, as were many of the neighbouring counties before their 
separate organization. Most of the lands at an early day were 
owned by companies, such as the Holland Land Company; and 
large tracts by John Nicholson and other individuals. A portion 
of the county was donation land granted to old soldiers, and 
another part was the property of the State. Settlements were en- 
couraged by the proprietors ; but many of the early settlers being 
merely " squatters," having no legal title to the lands claimed by 
them, were in process of time ejected by the rightful owners, and 
many fine farms were thus abandoned, the buildings and fences 
destroyed, and some parts of the county nearly depopulated. This, 
and other circumstances connected with the confusion and uncer- 
tainty of land titles, tended for a long time to retard the settlement 
and improvement of the county. 

On the Allegheny river, at the mouth of Oil creek, is a beautiful 
and fertile tract of bottom land which formerly belonged to Corn- 
planter, the Seneca Indian chief About sixteen years ago he sold 
It to some persons who erected a furnace and other works on it, 
and the once quiet abode of the Seneca chieftain is now converted 
into a bustling, noisy manufacturing establishment by the restless 
enterprise of the busy white man, who derives wealth from the 
bowels of the hills over which the Indian not long since chased 
the game which yielded him a scanty subsistence. 

31 



362 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

How is Venango bounded ? Of what description is the surface and soil ? 
What river passes through the county, and in what direction ? What large 
creeks empty into it ? Name some of the smaller streams. From what 
does Oil creek derive its name ? Where is this oil most abundant ? De- 
scribe the mode of obtaining it. What quantity is collected in a season ? 
In what other manner may it be procured ? What is said of ancient dig- 
gings along the banks of the creek ? What are the properties of the oil, 
and what is said of its price ? What valuable mineral productions abound 
in this county ? Mention the iron works in operation. To what useful 
purposes is a sandstone applied ? What is the county town, how situated, 
and what public buildings does it contain ? Where are Utica and Coopers- 
town, and what are their manufacturing establishments ? What villages 
are mentioned ? What are the agricultural productions and the character 
of the soil ? Mention the principal manufactures. What is said of the 
timber ? What canal is in this county ? Name the turnpikes. What is said 
of the schools ?— of the religious societies ? To what county did this terri- 
tory originally belong ? What circumstances retarded its settlement and 
improvement ? What is said of a tract of land which belonged to Corn- 
planter, an Indian chief? 

53. Warren County. 

This county is bounded on the north by the state of New York, 
on the east by the county of M'Kean, on the south by Jefferson 
and Venango, and on the west by Crawford and Erie. Popula- 
tion 9,278. 

The general face of the country is hilly and broken, but not 
mountainous, and along the margins of the largest streams are 
extensive tracts of bottom lands of good quality. With the ex- 
ception of these bottom lands, the general character of the soil is 
that of a gravelly loam with some intermixture of clay, and of 
moderate fertility, though susceptible of improvement by cultiva- 
tion. 

The climate is similar to that of the other northern counties. In 
January the mercury in the thermometer is sometimes as low as 
15 or 20° below ; and in summer as high as 95°. The mean 
annual temperature is about 50^. Winter usually sets in about 
the first of November, although the streams seldom freeze before 
the middle of December. Spring generally opens from the middle 
of March to the first of April. 

Warren, the county town, is an incorporated borough containing 
737 inhabitants, situated at the junction of ConeAvango creek with 
the Allegheny river. It contains a court-house, a jail, an 
academy, and two churches, one of which belongs to Methodists 
and the other to Presbyterians. Besides these public edifices there 
are also many well-built and handsome private dwellings. Co- 
lumbus, Youngsville and Pinegrove are the principal villages. 

The Megheny river enters this county at the north-eastern 
corner, and passing nearly through the middle of Warren flows 
south-westward into Venango. Conewango creek is a considerable 
stream, running southward from the state of New York, and 
emptying into the Allegheny at the town of Warren. Six miles 
below, the Brokemtraw creek also falls into this river from the 
westward. On both of these streams are numerous saw and 



WARREN COUNTY. 363 

grist mills. Teonista creek rises in the south-east, and affords 
abundance of water power, some of which is employed by mills. 
Kenzua creek flows from the eastward and discharges its waters 
into the Allegheny about 12 miles above Warren. All these 
streams are sufficiently large for floating down lumber at high 
water. 

The principal agricultural productions are wheat, rye, oats, 
indian corn and potatoes ; all of which, except wheat, are raised 
in sufficient abundance for home consumption. Immense quanti- 
ties of lumber are produced from the numerous saw mills, and 
sent down the Allegheny river to Pittsburg, from which place 
much of it finds its way to a market in the towns on the Ohio and 
Mississippi. 

The assessed value of real and personal property subject to tax- 
ation for county purposes in 1842 was $886,237 : county tax 
$5,515: State tax $1,012. 

There are two turnpike roads in the county, called the Warren 
and Franklin, and the Warren and Ridgeway turnpikes. The 
common roads, as is usual in newly settled districts, are only kept 
in tolerable condition ; but are suflcicieni to accommodate the 
scattered population. 

Education is not neglected in this comparatively wild and 
forest region. Of the 15 school districts, all have accepted the 
provisions of the common school system, and 92 schools are re- 
ported as being in operation, which are kept open on an average 
six months in the year. 

This county is mostly settled by families originally from some 
of the Eastern states. 

How is Warren county bounded ? Describe th^ face of the country and 
the general character of the soil. What is said of the chmate, and of the 
extreme and mean temperature ? How is the county town situated, and 
what is said of it ? Mention the principal villages. What is the principal 
river, and its course ? Name the large creeks, tneir situation and direction. 
What are the agricultural products ? What is said of the lumber produced, 
and where is it sent ? Mention the turnpikes and the condition of the com- 
mon roads. What is said of education and the number of schools? By 
whom is the county chiefly settled ? 

54. Washington County. 

Washington county is bounded north by Beaver, north-east by 
Allegheny, east by Westmoreland and Fayette, south by Greene, 
and west by the state of Virginia. Its population, according to 
the census of 1840, was 41,279. 

There are no mountains in this county, but the surface is hilly 
and uneven, being deeply furrowed by valleys along the streams, 
between which the upland is of a roUing or undulating character. 

The soil is remarkably fertile, and as an agricultural district is 
inferior to few counties in the State. A healthy and pleasant cli- 
mate, and scenery of the most varied, interesting and picturesque 
character, lend additional attractions to this favoured region. 



364 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

The rocks in this part of the state belong to the upper series of our bi- 
tuminous coal formation, and consist of alternating strata of sandstones, 
shales and limestones, with interposed beds of coal from three to six or 
eight feet in thickness. These nearly level strata, extending over the 
whole of this and a great part of the adjoining counties, are cut through by 
the deep valleys of the streams and exposed in varied succession in the 
steep banks and along the hill sides, in situations favourable to access and 
affording great facihties for mining and quarrying. Coal for domestic con- 
sumption is abundant in every part of the county, and along the bank of 
the Monongahela it is dug in great quantities and sent in flat boats down 
the Ohio river for sale. 

The Monongahela river flows along the eastern side of Wash- 
ington, in a winding channel, for a distance of nearly thirty miles. 
There are no other large streams in the county ; but it is well 
watered for agricultural and manufacturing purposes by numerous 
creeks tributary to the Monongahela and Ohio. Chartierh creek 
rises here by numerous branches, flows northward and falls into 
the Ohio below Pittsburg. In the south are the waters of Teiv-mile 
creek, which runs eastward to the Monongahela, and in the west 
those of Buffalo and Cross creeks flowing westward to the Ohio. 

Washington, the county town, occupies a nearly central posi- 
tion, and is situated on the National road 30 miles east of the Ohio 
river at Wheeling, and 25 south-west from Pittsburg. It is an 
incorporated borough, containing, according to the census of 1840, 
about 2100 inhabitants. The town presents a pleasing and 
somewhat imposing appearance, owing to the number of spacious 
and elegant public and private edifices with which it is adorned. 
The buildings of Washington coUege, the large and handsome 
new court-house recently erected at an expense of upwards of 
$20,000, the market-house, the female seminary, and a number 
of well built churches, add much to the general aspect of this 
beautiful and flourishing place. 

Monongahela city, formerly called Williamsport, on the Mononga- 
hela river, in the eastern part of the county, is a rapidly improving 
town, the seat of extensive manufactures of glass and other articles, 
as well as a place of considerable commercial business. Its popu- 
lation is about 800. 

Canonsburg is a pleasant town, 7 miles north of Washington, 
containing about 700 inhabitants. It is the seat of Jefferson col- 
lege, a flourishing and well conducted institution. 

IVest Alexandria is on the National road, 17 miles west of Wash- 
ington, near the Virginia state line. Claysville, on the same road, 
1 1 miles from Washington, has a population of 300. West Middle- 
tmon is about 13 miles north-west from Washington, containing 
260 inhabitants. Hillsboro is on the National road, between Wash- 
ington and Brownsville. Florence, Cross-creek, Greenfield and 
a great number of other flourishing and pleasant villages are scat- 
tered through the county. 

The staple agricultural productions are wool, wheat, corn, oats, 
flour, horses, hogs, cattle, sheep, &c. As a wool growing county 
Washington ranks among the foremost in the Union, its annual 
product amounting to 482,603 pounds : the number of sheep kept is 



WASHINGTON COUNTY. 365 

about 223,000, and great numbers are driven to the eastern counties 
for sale. 

Flour is extensively manufactured: 25 flour mills produce 
yearly about 95,000 barrels, and in addition to these there are 66 
grist mills driven by water power and steam. The manufactures 
of glass are estimated to amount to $100,000 annually. Various 
other branches of domestic industry are successfully pursued, which 
add to the wealth and prosperity of the community. 

The assessed valuation of property subject to taxation for county 
purposes in 1842 was $7,626,299: county tax $22,879: State 
tax $9,720. 

None of the canals and rail roads constructed by the State are 
in Washington county. The improvements partly completed by 
the Monongahela Navigation Company will have a tendency mate- 
rially to facilitate the trade of the eastern portion, particularly the 
shipment and transportation of coal, of which about 1,000,000 
bushels are already mined annually in this county alone. 

The turnpike road constructed by the National Government, and 
which is the great throughfare from Washington city and Balti- 
more to the western states, passes through the county, from 
Brownsville on the Monongahela to the Virginia state line, eight 
miles east of Wheeling. This is intersected at the town of Wash- 
ington by the turnpike from Bedford through Somerset, Mount 
Pleasant and Monongahela city. Several other good roads pass in 
various directions. 

The people are generally moral and industrious in their habits, 
intelligent and public-spirited, careful to provide the means of edu- 
cation and attentive to its progress. The common school system 
is in full operation in all of the 29 districts in the county, and 211 
schools are open for instruction during a general average of nearly 
six months in the year. 

Washington college is founded on the model of the best eastern 
institutions, and the object of the faculty and board of trustees has 
always been to impart a solid and accurate, rather than a hasty 
and superficial education. It has five professors, viz.; one of 
mental and moral science, natural theology, &c. ; one of mathe- 
matics, chemistry and natural philosophy; one of ancient and 
modern languages; one of belles-lettres, political economy and 
constitutional law ; and one of English literature. There are three 
valuable and well selected libraries connected with the college, 
containing about 4,000 volumes. There is a cabinet collection of 
minerals and other specimens illustrative of natural science, with 
coins, Indian, Eastern and African antiquities, &c. This college 
is bound to educate annually, free of charge, 20 young men who 
wish simply to qualify themselves as teachers. The influence of 
the coUege and the number of educated and literary persons resi- 
dent in the town, give a tone to the habits and manners of the 
population. The general society is good, and the people religious, 
moral and hospitable. 

Washington female seminary was established in 1836. The 
building is large and handsome, and the interior arrangement con- 

31* 



366 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

venient and well furnished for the purposes of education. There 
are five teachers in the institution who are employed in instruct- 
ing young ladies in the useful and ornamental branches of female 
education, including vocal and instrumental music; the French 
and Latin languages; drawing; painting; arithmetic; algebra; 
geometry; natural, moral and intellectual philosophy; rhetoric; 
logic ; chemistry, and botany ; besides the elementary branches 
of an English education, reading, writing, grammar, geography, 
history, &c. This establishment is conducted on the principles 
of the celebrated Troy seminary in the state of New York, and 
most of the teachers are from that institution. 

Jefferson college, at Canonsburg, was founded in 1802. It has 
four professors and two tutors; the course of instruction being, 
similar to that in well regulated institutions of the same character. 
The number of students in the college proper is usually from 150 
to 180, and in the preparatory department about 60. There is an 
extensive philosophical and chemical apparatus, a large library, 
and a collection of specimens in natural science, with many Indian 
antiquities and other curiosities. A preparatory school is con- 
nected with the college, in which young men are educated for 
teachers of common schools. 

Washington county was chiefly settled by emigrants from the 
•north of Ireland; some from New Jersey, and a number of Ger- 
mans from other parts of Pennsylvania. Their descendants are 
now becoming blended into one people, of similar habits, manners 
and language. 

Describe the boundaries of Washington count}'. What is the character 
of the surface ? What is said of the soil and cHmate ? To what series do 
the rock strata belong, and what valuable mineral product is abundant ? 
What river flows along the eastern side of the county ? Name the princi- 
pal creeks and their course. How is Washington, the county town, situ- 
ated, and what is said of its general appearance ? Mention some of the 
public buildings. What was Monongahela city formerly called, and where 
situated ? Wnat is said of its manufactures and business ? Where is Ca- 
nonsburg, and what institution of learning is located there ? Mention the 
other principal towns and their situation. What are the staple agricultural 
products ? What is said of the number of sheep and the quantity of wool 
produced? Give some account of the manufacture of flour, glass, &c. 
What advantages will arise from the completion of the Monongaliela navi- 
gation ? Describe the turnpike roads. What is the general character of 
the people? What is said of the attention paid to education, and of the 
common schools ? Give an account of Washington college. Of the Wash- 
ington female seminary. Of Jefferson college. By whom was the county 
chiefly settled ? 

55. Wayne County. 

This county lies in the north-eastern corner of Pennsylvania ; 
being bounded on the north by the state of New York, and sepa- 
rated from the same state on the east by the river Delaware : on 
the south-east and south it has the counties of Pike and Monroe; 
and on the west, Luzerne and Susquehanna. 



WAYNE COUNTY. 367 



By the census of 1840 the population was 1 

This is an elevated region, being from 1200 to 1500 feet above 
the level of tide water : the face of the country is irregular and 
hiUy rather than mountainous. Moosic mountain, which passes 
from Luzerne into the western part of this county, is the most con- 
siderable elevation, and divides the waters of the Lackawana which 
flow into the Susquehanna from those of the Lackawaxen which 
run towards the Delaware. 

This mountain is the eastern boundary of the Wyoming and Lackawana 
coal basin, and the conglomerate rock, containing large rounded pebbles, 
which underlies the coal formation is found on its western side. It is pos- 
sible that some of the lower coal seams extend into the edge of Wayne 
county at the northern point of the basin above Carbondale. East and 
north-east of the Moosic mountain are the red shales and sandstones of the 
next lower formations, spreading out widely over most of the county in nearly 
horizontal strata. These form picturesque cHffs, in some places of great 
height, along the Delaware and others of the larger streams : and some 
of the creeks fall over high perpendicular ledges of rock, forming cataracts 
which in a region more frequented by travellers would be much visited 
and admired. 

The soil, though generally stony and rough, is in many places 
productive -, agriculture is successful, and rapidly improving in 
the valleys and more fertile portions of the country. Much of the 
surface is covered with thick forests, among which beech and 
hemlock are the largest and most abundant timber. So universal 
is the growth of the former, that this region long ago received the 
name of "the beech woods," and is yet frequently so called. 
Some white pine still remains, but the best of it has long since 
been destroyed. Lumber of different kinds is produced in con- 
siderable quantity, which is mostly floated down the Delaware and 
Lackawaxen during the spring freshets. 

The Delaware flows for more than 40 miles along the eastern 
• border of Wayne, and has many creeks emptying into it of size 
amply sufficient to propel saw mills, grist mills and other ma- 
chinery. The Lackawaxen has a general south-eastern course 
nearly through the middle of the county, until reaching the south- 
eastern boundary it enters Pike county, and thence flows eastward 
to the Delaware. In the northern part is Starucca creek, which 
runs northward and falls into the Susquehanna near the New 
York line. 

Most of the streams rise from small lakes and ponds, which are 
very numerous, and some of them occupying an area of several 
hundred acres. Situated in the most unfrequented parts of the 
county, and surrounded by deep forests, their crystal waters sleep 
calmly embosomed in the dark woods, and find but rarely a soli- 
tary traveller upon their banks to gaze upon their serene and 
quiet beauty. These deep and secluded retreats, seldom visited 
except by the hunter or fisherman, ofter an exquisite treat to the 
admirers of natural scenery ; and if the time should ever come when 
our citizens will learn to appreciate the attractions of their own 
scate, the forest lakes and waterfalls of Wayne county may find 



368 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

poets and painters to visit their shores and to celebrate their ro- 
mantic beauty. 

Honesdale is now the county town, situated near the junction, 
of Dyberry creeif with the Lackawaxen, and at the point where 
the railroad from Carbondale unites with the artificial navigation 
constructed by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company. It is a 
new town, but is already a flourishing place and the seat of con- 
siderable business in produce and merchandise. 

Bethany, the former seat of justice, is about three miles north 
of Honesdale, on high ground, commanding a fine view of the 
surrounding country. Since the location of a new and more busy 
town in its immediate neighbourhood and the removal of the county 
business, it has somewhat declined in consequence. Near this 
town a fine sand is found well adapted to the manufacture of glass, 
and works were some years since established for that purpose, 
which have produced considerable quantities. 

Besides these towns there are several villages in other parts of 
the county. 

The improvements of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company, 
in the navigation of the Lackawaxen, are of considerable import- 
ance to the people of this region ; affording them increased facili- 
ties of trade, and furnishing a market as well as the means of 
transportation for produce. Several turnpike roads cross the 
county : the Easton and Belmont northward ; the Milford and 
Owego north-westward : the Cochecton and Great Bend westward, 
and some others. The common roads, as is usual in most rocky 
and thinly settled countries, are in many places rough and stony. 

The system of education under the common school law is in 
general operation. There are 16 school districts, and 86 schools 
are reported as being kept open from 4 to 11 months in the year. 
There is an academy and also a female seminary at Honesdale. 

This county, like several others in the northern part of the state, 
owes a considerable proportion of its population to settlers from 
the eastern states, who are generally characterized by their frugal 
and industrious habits. 

In what part of the state is Wayne county, and how is it bounded ? 
What is said of its general elevation, face of the country, mountains, &c.? 
Give some account of the geological formations. What is said of the soil 
and of agriculture ? — of the forests and the production of lumber ? Describe 
the principal streams, — lakes and ponds. How is Honesdale situated ? 
Bethany, and what manufacture is established near it ? What improve- 
ments in navigation are important to the inhabitants? Mention the turn- 
pike roads. What is said of education, schools, &c.? From what quarter 
has the county derived a large portion of its population ? 

56. Westmoreland County. 

This county is bounded on the north by Armstrong and Indiana ; 
east by Cambria and Somerset ; south by Fayette ; and west by 
Washington and Allegheny. Population 42,699. 

It has two mountain ranges, called Laurel hill and Chestnut 
ridge ; the former of which constitutes its eastern boundary, sepa- 



WESTMORELAND COUNTY. 369 

rating it from Cambria and Somerset. Chestnut ridge is about 12 
miles further westward and runs in a direction nearly parallel with 
Laurel hill. The region included between them is called Ligonier 
valley, being so named from old fort Ligonier, which was erected 
here during the Indian wars before the revolution. The general 




Ligonier valley. 

character of the surface throughout the county is rolling and hilly, 
with deep valleys and ravines along the water courses. 

Westmoreland is watered by several rivers and large streams. 
The Conemaugh forms the whole northern boundary to the mouth 
of Loyalhanna, and also thence to its junction with the Alle- 
gheny, having in this portion of its course the name of Kiskimi- 
netas. Below the mouth of Kiskiminetas the county bounds on 
the Allegheny river for several miles. The Youghiogeny passes 
through the south-west, and one township, called Rostraver, ex- 
tends west of this river to the Monongahela. Loyalhanna is a 
large stream Avhich rises in Ligonier valley, and passing through a 
gap in Chestnut ridge, flows north-westward and falls into the 
Conemaugh near Saltzburg. Sewickly creek rises west of Chest 
nut ridge, and running westward, empties into the Youghiogeny. 
Bi-ush creek also flows westward and unites with Turtle creek, a 
tributary of the Monongahela. The county is well watered by 
numerous smaller streams suflficient for mills and other manufac- 
turing and agricultural purposes. 

In its leading geological features, Westmoreland presents but little vari- 
ety. It belongs wholly to the great bituminous coal formation, with the 
exception of the two mountain ridges already mentioned ; in each of which 
the rocks underlying the coal measures have been upheaved in the form of 



370 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

an arch, constituting what is called by geologists an anticlinal axis, and 
having the rock strata which contain the coal resting on them along their 
bases. Beds of coal, from three to nine feet in thickness, are opened in in- 
numerable places, and the outcrop of coal seams may be found along almost 
every hill side. Several strata of limestone occur between the coal beds, 
some of which yield hme of good quality. Iron ore is found along the 
base of Laurel hill, where it has been mined in many places for use in the 
furnaces erected in its neighbourhood. In Derry township, south of Blairs- 
ville, there is a cave which is said to be a natural curiosity worthy of notice. 

The soil is of a mixed character, being either calcareous, clayey, 
gravelly or slaty, according to the prevailing rock strata from the 
decomposition of which it has been derived. Much of it is fer- 
tile and well adapted to cultivation ; the agriculture of this hilly 
region being productive and flourishing, wherever the industry of 
the farmer has been judiciously employed in its improvement. 

Greenshurgy the county town, containing 800 inhabitants, is situ- 
ated on the turnpike from Bedford to Pittsburg, about 30 miles from 
the latter place. It has a large and commodious brick court house, 
county offices, and a stone prison ; also a brick academy, and 
several churches belonging to Presbyterians, Lutherans, Metho- 
dists and Episcopalians. There is a steam mill in the borough, 
and several branches of domestic manufacture are carried on for 
the supply of the neighbourhood. 

Mount Pleasant is an improving town in the southern part of 
the county, with a population of 554. JVew Alexandria is on the 
northern turnpike where it crosses Loyalhanna, and has 427 in- 
habitants. The other incorporated boroughs are Youngstown and 
Ligonier, both on the turnpike east of Greensburg, and JYew Sor- 
lem on the northern turnpike. Besides these boroughs, there are 
a number of villages in various parts of the county, among which 
are Laughlinstown, West Newton, Adamsburg and Murraysville. 

Westmoreland county is celebrated for the production of wheat 
of superior quality : rye, oats, Indian corn and buckwheat are also 
successfully cultivated, — and catde, sheep and swine are raised in 
great numbers. By far the most numerous portion of the inhabit- 
ants are engaged in agricultural pursuits, receiving from their 
well tilled farms the sure reward of their industry. 

Numerous salt wells have been bored along the Conemaugh 
and Kiskiminetas, and also on Sewickly creek ; from the water 
thus obtained salt to a large amount is annually manufactured. 
There are four or five blast furnaces in the county which manufac- 
ture pig iron and castings from the ore. Several woollen factories 
and paper mills are in operation, — flour and saw mills are nume- 
rous, some of which are driven by steam. 

Timber is abundant, being in little demand for fuel in a region 
where coal may be dug from almost every hill side with less labour 
than is required to cut fire wood. The most common forest trees 
are oak of various kinds, hickory, walnut, sugar maple and poplar. 

The assessed valuation of real and personal property, subject to 
county taxation in 1842, was $6,025,109; the amount of county 
tax levied was $12,919; State tax $7,249. 

The western division of the Pennsylvania canal passes along 



WESTMORELAND COUNTY. 371 

the Conemaugh and Kiskiminetas through the whole extent of the ■ 
northern boundary, affording to the inhabitants a means of trans- 
porting their surplus produce either to an eastern or a western 
market. It is, however, mostly sent eastward. Improvements in 
the navigation of the Youghiogeny river are proposed, which will 
doubtless, when carried into effect, prove highly convenient and 
advantageous to the people in the western part of the county. 

There are several good turnpike roads : — that called the north- 
ern route from Harrisburg to Pittsburg extends through West- 
moreland from the Conemaugh at Blairsville to Murray sville, a 
distance of 23 miles. The middle turnpike, leading from Phila- 
delphia by way of Bedford to Pittsburg, passes through Laughlins- 
town, Ligonier, Youngstown and Greensburg. The turnpike 
from Somerset to Washington and Wheehng crosses the southern 
part of the county by way of Mount Pleasant and West Newton. 
Another turnpike has been recently constructed from Johnstown 
in Cambria county to Ligonier, 19 miles. A clay turnpike, 22 
miles in length, extends through Ligonier valley from Centreville 
on the Conemaugh to Donegal. 

Bridges have been constructed across the Conemaugh at Blairs- 
ville and Saltzburg; one over the Youghiogeny at West Newton, 
and several across the Loyalhanna at different places. 

The attention paid to education seems to be increasing. There 
are 23 school districts, of which 20 made reports to the superin- 
tendent in 1842, stating that there were 181 schools in operation 
under the law, in which the average period of instruction was 
upwards of five months in the year. The academy at Greensburg 
is reported as containing 27 pupils, and does not seem to be suffi- 
ciently patronized to maintain it in a very flourishing condition. 

Presbyterians, Lutherans and Methodists are the most numerous 
religious persuasions; there also many Covenanters, Baptists, 
Catholics, &.c. 

The inhabitants are mostly descended from Irish and German 
families who, attracted by the fertility of the soil and other natural 
advantages, settled here at an early day when surrounded by peril 
and danger from the incursions of hostile Indians. Families were 
murdered or carried into captivity ; — dwellings were burned, — 
crops destroyed, — and all the hardships and sufferings incidental 
to frontier settlements exposed to Indian cruelty were inflicted 
upon them : the loaded rifle was the constant companion of every 
settler at a time when each bush and thicket might conceal a savage 
foe ; arms were carried to the field and to the church, and their 
lives were only secure by constant watchfulness. All this has, 
however, long since passed away, and fertile farms and thriving 
towns are now the abodes of those whose fathers heard the deep- 
forest resound with the Indian war cry, and seldom Jay down to 
rest secure from the tomahawk and scalping knife of the prowHng 
and relentless enemy. 

How is Westmoreland bounded ? What two mountain ridges are there, 
and what is the name of the valley between them ? What is the general 



372 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

character of the surface ? In what parts of the county are the Conemaugh, 
Allegheny, and Youghiogeny rivers ? Mention the names, situation and 
direction of the principal creeks. To what geological formation does this 
county chiefly belong ? What is said of the coal beds ? Limestone ? Iron 
ore ? What are the varieties of soil, and its general fitness for cultivation ? 
Give a description of the county town. Where is Mount Pleasant ? New 
Alexandria ? Youngstown and Ligonier ? New Salem ? Name some of 
the other villages. For what agricultural production is Westmoreland cele- 
brated, and what others are mentioned ? Where is salt manufactured ? 
Mention the furnaces and manufacturing establishments. What is said of 
the timber ? What canal passes alon^the northern side of the county ? 
Describe the various turnpike roads. Bridges. Give an account of the 
state of education, common schools, &c. Name the principal religious 
societies. From whom are the inhabitants mostly descended ? Relate 
some of the difliculties encountered by the early settlers, 

57. Wyoming County. 

Wyoming is a new county, established in 1842 from the north- 
western part of Luzerne, and is bounded north by Susquehanna, 
east and south by Luzerne, and west by Lycoming and Bradford. 
Population about 11,000. 

The surface is generally hilly and uneven : in the north-west is 
the Mahoopeny mountain, with other considerable elevations, and 
further south some spurs of the North or Allegheny mountain 
which form bluffs along the river below Tunkhannock, from six to 
eleven hundred feet in height. 

The rock formations consist almost exclusively of nearly horizontal strata 
of red shales and red and grayish sandstones (IX,) overlaid, on some of 
the high grounds in the western part, by the coarse compact sandstone (X) 
next above in order. 

In the low grounds along the river and other streams the soil is 
very productive ; the uplands, where not too rough and broken for 
cultivation, yield good crops of oats, potatoes, and grass : wheat 
thrives tolerably well, and indian corn grows on the bottom lands, 
but does not succeed so well on the hills. 

The JYorth Branch of Susquehanna enters this county at the 
north-western corner, flowing in a south-east direction to the 
southern boundary, where it enters Luzerne. The other principal 
streams are Mahoopeny and Bowman's creeks on the west of the 
Susquehanna, and Meshoppen and Tunkhannock creeks on the east. 

Tunkhannock is the seat of justice, a flourishing town on the 
east side of the river, near the mouth of Tunkhannock creek, about 
23 miles south of Montrose in Susquehanna county. There are a 
few small villages in other parts of the county. 

Most of the inhabitants are engaged in agricultural pursuits. 
Beech, oak, sugar maple, hemlock and pine are the prevailing 
kinds of timber. Lumber is manufactured to some extent, and 
maple sugar is made for domestic use. 

That portion of the State improvements known by the name of 
the North Branch Extension, being a continuation of the canal 
from the mouth of Lackawana to the northern line of the State, 
passe« along the river through the whole breadth of this county, 
but is yet unfinished. Its completion would greatly benefit the 



YORK COUNTY. 373 

people of this district by affording them a conveyance to market 
for their surplus produce. 

When was Wyoming county established, from what county was it taken, 
and how is it bounded ? Describe the surface, and name the principal 
mountains. What is said of" the rock formations ? Give an account of the 
soil and productions. What river and creeks water the county ? What is 
the county town and where situated ? What is said of agriculture, timber, 
lumber, &c.? What canal passes through the county ? 

58. York County. 

York county is bounded north by Cumberland ; east by the Sus- 
quehanna river, which separates it from Dauphin and Lancaster ; 
south by the state of Maryland ; and west by Adams county- 
Population 47,010. 

The face of the country is generally hilly and uneven, except in 
the limestone valley, Avhich has a comparatively level surface. The 
principal elevations are a number of slate ridges extending west- 
ward from the Susquehanna in the southern part of the county ; 
the Pigeon hills in the west; the Conewago hills towards the 
north ; and still further north a series of hills and ridges extending 
from the South mountain to the Susquehanna. 

The southern part of the county is occupied chiefly by rocks of the stra- 
tified primary class, consisting principally of talcose slates with occasional 
silicious strata, some of which approach the character of a sandstone. 
Veins and irregular nests of white quartz are common in the slate. In 
eome places are found beds of slate which may be split with great regula- 
rity into thin plates, yielding roofing slate of good quality. Extensive quar- 
ries of this material are worked in the neighbourhood of Peach Bottom : it 
also occurs in the slate ridge south of the limestone valley, about six miles 
east of York. Near Slate Ridge church, about five miles west of the Sus- 
quehanna, are two or three small belts of serpentine, one of which is crossed 
by the State fine. This serpentine is accompanied by chlorite slate contain- 
ing beautiful octohedral crystals of iron, asbestus, actinolite, titaniferous 
and magnetic iron ore, &c. Red oxide of titanium occurs in several places, 
but is most abundant near the State line, about nine miles from the river. 
Beautiful cubic crystals of sulphuret of iron are fouiid in the slate along the 
canal below Wrightsville, and are common in many other places ; being 
frequently found loose in the soil and having their external surface changed 
by rust from a bright golden yellow to a brown colour. Iron ore has been 
dug near Susan Ann Furnace, 13 miles south-eastward from York ; but 
is found of a better quaUty 8 miles further westward near the turnpike from 
York to Baltimore. On the canal, above M' Call's ferry, purple sulphuret 
and green carbonate of copper occur in the white quartz veins of the slate 
strata, but from appearances only in small quantity. 

On Cabin branch run, 5 miles below Wrightsville, is a belt of limestone 
crossing from Lancaster county and terminating in a point a few miles west 
of the river, being separated from the Hmestone formation of York valley 
by a slate ridge which extends westward from the river below Wrightsville. 
Near the western termination of this hmestone is a valuable deposit of iron 
ore which has been extensively mined for the supply of Margaretta furnace, 
in its immediate vicinity. Pursuing the same range further to the west, we 
find bands of calcareous rock near the York and Baltimore turnpike, and a 
little west of the Baltimore and Susquehanna rail road, 10 miles south of 
York. Here the rock is quarried as a limestone, and though by no means 

32 



374 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

pure, it is valuable for burning into lime for agricultural purposes. From 
this place it extends westward towards the village of Jefferson, being ac- 
companied by iron ore which appears on the surface of the soil. 

Extending westward from the Susquehanna at Wrightsville, is a belt of 
limestone (II) occupying the valley between the slate hills on the south, and 
the sandstone (I) and slates of Chicques ridge, which crosses the river 
above Wrightsville. This limestone stretches westward by York, as far 
as to the Pigeon hills, where it is divided into two branches ; the southern 
extending south of those hills to Hanover, and thence into Adams county ; 
while the northern is soon lost beneath the overlying red shales and sand- 
stones north of the Pigeon hills. At several places within its range this 
limestone presents beds which are white, flesh coloured, and variegated, 
where a beautiful marble might be obtained if the strata were sufficiently 
thick and compact to afford solid blocks of sufficient size to be profitably 
worked. Iron ore occurs at several places along the south side of Pigeon 
hills, in the neighbourhood of Hanover, atid between this and Littlestown; 
but some of it seems to be of rather indifferent quality. A dike of trap rock 
crosses the limestone valley 4 miles east of York, and another a little west 
of the town. 

The rocks of the Pigeon hills consist principally of slates and sandstones 
which rise through the limestone of the valley, forming an elliptical range 
of elevations that extend from within eight miles of York to the western 
line of the county. The slate of these hills occasionally contains a little 
green carbonate of copper, and fine specimens of foliated oxide of iron occur 
in the veins of white quartz which traverse the slate. 

In the ridge prolonged westward from the Susquehanna above Wrights- 
ville, we have a hard white sandstone (I) with accompanying beds of slate, 
extending on the river from a little above Wrightsville to the mouth of Co- 
dorus creek, above which a small point of limestone crosses the river from 
the east side, appearing at the village of New Holland, and terminating a 
short distance west of the river. The western termination of the sandstone 
ridge is a little east of the turnpike from York to Harrisburg. 

North of this is a wide extent of the middle secondary red shales and 
sandstones, the southern border of which overlaps the limestone at the river 
above New Holland, and west of it rests upon the slate on the north of the 
rid^e last mentioned, until it reaches the main limestone of the valley about 
three miles north of York. Thence ranging south-westward the red 
shales and sandstones border upon the Umestone, until, at a point about 10 
miles west from York, they meet the slate on the north side of the Pigeon 
hills and extend along their northern base to the fine of Adams county. 
The northern border of the red sandstone formation extends to the lime- 
stone of Cumberland valley, meeting it in an irregular line on the south of 
Yellow Breeches creek, and in the neighbourhood of Lisburn, crossing that 
stream into Cumberland county. The upper beds of this formation are 
here marked by their usual conglomerate character, containing rounded 
pebbles of calcareous and silicious rocks. The red sandstone in many places 
affords an excellent material for building, and has been mtich used for fur- 
nace hearths, architectural purposes, locks, aqueducts, bridges, and other 
uses where cut stone is required. 

In the northern part of the county are many hills and ridges of trap rock, 
some of which are of such elevation as to assume the character of moun- 
tains. These are chiefly in the rough and rocky region between Cone- 
wago and Yellow Breeches creeks. Magnetic iron ore occurs in several 
places associated with these rocks ; traces of copper also appear ; and the 
altered shales and sandstones in the vicinity of the trap ridges about 
Lewisbury and Newberry contain foliated and micaceous oxide of iron, 
epidote, &,c. 

The soil of this county is as various as its geological formations. 
In the southern part it is thin and unproductive; but by the free 



YORK COUNTY. 375 

use of lime as a manure may be so much improved as to produce 
good crops of grass and grain. The hmesione valley has a soil of re- 
markable fertility and contains many beautiful and well cultivated 
farms. Much of the red shale soil is of good quaUty and suscepti- 
ble of high improvement by the use of lime and judicious cultiva- 
tion. The soil on the trap hills, though generally rough and stony, 
produces good crops when properly farmed. 

The Susquehanna river flows along the eastern border, through 
a distance of about 50 miles. Yellow Breeches creek, flowing east- 
ward to the Susquehanna, forms most of the northern boundary. 
Conewago creek is a large stream, rising by several branches in 
Adams county, and having an easterly course to the Susquehanna 
at York Haven. A southern branch of this creek is called Little 
Conewago. The Codorus rises by two main branches in the south- 
west, and flows north-eastward by the town of York, emptying 
into the Susquehanna below New Holland. Muddy creek, is a 
considerable stream in the south-east, falling into the river above 
Peach Bottom. These, together with numerous smaller streams 
which water the county, afford power for a great number of mills, 
forges, furnaces and other manufacturing establishments. 

York, the county town, is pleasantly situated on Codorus creek, 
in the limestone valley, eleven miles west of the Susquehanna. It 
is a neat, well-built town, and contains an elegant and spacious 
new court-house, a prison, a bank, an academy, and 10 churches 
most of which are substantial brick buildings. Its population, 
including the adjoining villages of Frystown and Buttstown, is 
5,415. It is a place of considerable business; being connected 
with Philadelphia and Baltimore by rail roads, and having a canal 
and lock navigation down the Codorus to the Susquehanna. 
Good turnpike roads lead from it to Lancaster, Baltimore, Gettys- 
burg, and Harrisburg. The town is supplied with excellent water 
from a spring near the foot of the slate ridge on the south. Five 
weekly newspapers are pubHshed here, three in the English lan- 
guage, and two in the German. A county Lyceum has been 
estabhshed, which has a collection of minerals and specimens in 
natural history, and which holds meetings for lectures and the 
discussion of scientific subjects. There are also societies for the 
promotion of temperance, and for various moral and charitable 
purposes. During the Revolutionary war, when Congress were 
driven from Philadelphia, they retired to York, and occupied the 
court-house for their deliberations. While in session here, Philip 
Livingston, one of the members, died, and was buried in the 
cemetery of the German Reformed church, where a monument 
has been erected to his memory, consisting of a pyramid of white 
marble, surmounted by an urn. 

Hanover is an incorporated borough, containing a population 
of 1,070, situated in a fertile neighbourhood in the south-west of 
the county, 18 miles from York, and inhabited chiefly by Germans. 

Wrightsville is a flourishing borough on the west side of the 
Susquehanna, opposite to Columbia, with which it is connected 
by a bridge having a rail road laid on it. 



376 GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 

Shrewshunj (Strasburg) is on the Baltimore turnpike, 14 miles 
south of York, and a few miles further south-eastward is Mecha- 
nicsburg. Liverpool is a village on the Harrisburg turnpike, 6 
miles north of York ; and York Haven is on the same road, at the 
junction of Conewago creek with the Susquehanna. Dover is 7 
miles north-west from York : Dillsburg, Lewisbury, and JVewberry 
are villages in the northern part of the county. 

The agricultural productions are numerous and important, con- 
sisting of various kinds of grain, live stock, pork, clover seed, &c. 
The cultivation of tobacco is pursued to some extent and has been 
found profitable. Upwards of 160,000 pounds are annually pro- 
duced in the county. 

There are four blast furnaces, four forges and several foundries 
for the manufacture of iron; a great number of flour mills; 10 
woollen factories ; 53 tanneries, producing a large amount of 
leather; a number of establishments for the manufacture of car- 
riages, agricultural and domestic implements ; and numerous other 
productions of manufacturing and mechanical industry. York 
county has 216 distilleries, which is nearly double the number of 
those in any other county, and nearly one fourth of the whole 
number contained in the State. 

The assessed valuation of real and personal property, subject to 
county taxation in 1842, was $9,276,514: on which was levied 
a county tax amounting to $41,913 : State tax $12,150. 

None of the state canals or rail roads are situated in York county; 
but there have been a number of improvements constructed by 
companies, which are important to its trade and convenience. 
The Susquehanna and Tide-water canal extends from Wrights- 
ville down the western side of the river to the Maryland line, and 
is thence continued to Havre de Grace, at the head of Chesapeake 
bay. The Codorus navigation is by means of canal and slack 
water pools along that stream from the borough of York to the 
Susquehanna. The York and Wrightsville rail road connects 
with the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road ; affording a con- 
tinuous line from York to Philadelphia, a distance of 94 miles. 
Another rail road extends southward from York to the Maryland 
line, and continues thence to Baltimore, by which a communica- 
tion may be had with that city in about four hours' travel. 

A good turnpike road leads from Wrightsville through York to 
Gettysburg in Adams county, and is continued thence to Cham- 
bersburg, where it connects with the turnpike from Harrisburg to 
Pittsburg. The turnpike from Baltimore to York passes through 
the southern part of the county, and is continued northward from 
York to Harrisburg. There is also a turnpike from Baltimore to 
Carlisle which passes through Hanover, in the south-west of York 
county. A noble bridge crosses the Susquehanna at Wrights- 
ville, and substantial bridges are erected over the principal streams 
where they are crossed by the main roads. 

The general state of education is not very flourishing. Schools 
are tolerably well sustained in the principal towns ; but in many 
parts of the country they are much neglected. There are in all 



YORK COUNTY. STiT 

32 school districts ; 1 7 of which have accepted the law establishing 
a system of education by common schools, and have 117 schools 
in operation, which are open for instruction on a general average 
rather more than five months in a year. 

There are upwards of 30 places of public worship, belonging 
principally to Lutherans, German Reformed, Presbyterians, Me- 
thodists, Episcopalians and Friends. 

This county was originally a part of Lancaster, and settlements 
were commenced here at an early period. In 1722, the manor of 
Springettsbury was surveyed by order of the governor, in the name 
and for the use of Springett Penn. It was situated on the west 
side of the Susquehanna; extending on the river from nearly oppo- 
site the mouth of Conestoga to some distance above the place where 
Wrightsville now stands, and reaching westward from the river a 
distance often miles; containing upwards of 75,000 acres. 

A considerable portion of what is now York county was claimed 
by the proprietors of Maryland, as being within their chartered 
limits; and settlements were made under their authority, which 
afterwards led to protracted and serious dissensions. Many 
Germans had settled west of the Susquehanna under Pennsylvania 
titles ; but in order to avoid the payment of the provincial taxes 
they accepted titles from Maryland. Being afterwards convinced 
that this step might be injurious to their interests, they renounced 
the authority of Lord Baltimore and sought protection from Penn- 
sylvania. The sheriff of Baltimore county was sent with a force 
of 300 men to eject them, and was met by the sheriff of Lancas- 
ter, also supported by a strong party, who without violence in- 
duced the Maryland officer to return, — the Germans having pro- 
mised to consult together and give an answer to the requisition of 
Lord Baltimore. But soon afterwards a party from Maryland, 
uncier Captain Cressap, attempted to drive out the Germans, and 
killed one of the persons who resisted them. The sheriff of Lan- 
caster county again came to the rescue, and after a sharp contest, 
in which some were killed and Cressap himself wounded, he was 
taken and conveyed to prison at Philadelphia. This led to further 
acts of violence on the part of Maryland, — and a series of con- 
tentions and skirmishes ensued, in which many of the Germans 
were driven from their farms, and the whole settlement harassed 
and disturbed. A number of the rioters having been seized and 
taken to the prison at Lancaster, a party of Marylanders proceeded 
thhher, broke open the jail and released them. Soon after this, 
in 1737, an order of the king in council, on the subject of the 
boundary betAveen the two provinces, induced both parties to re- 
frain from further violence. 

Among the early settlers were also many emigrants from the 
north of Ireland, and the present population of the county are 
mostly descendants from them and from the Germans. The Ger- 
man language is still spoken in the middle and western parts; and 
newspapers are printed in that language at York and Hanover. 

How is York county bounded ? Describe the face of the country, and 
name the principal hills. What kinds of rock are found in the southern 

32* 



378 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



part ? Where are the slate quarries ? What minerals occur ? At what 
places is iron ore found ? Describe the range of the limestone in York val- 
ley. What is said of marble and iron ore in it ? What is the rock forma- 
tion of the Pigeon hills ? In the ridge west of the Susquehanna above 
Wrightsville ? What formation lies north of this, and what is its extent 
from south to north ? What valuable material is found in it, and for what 
purposes used ? Where are hills of trap rock, and what minerals are found 
there? Describe the different kinds of soil. What river flows along the 
eastern boundary ? Name the principal creeks, and describe their course. 
How is the town of York situated, and what are its pubUc buildings ? 
What is said of its business, and its facility of communication with other 
places ? Societies for literary and moral improvement ? What distinguished 
person was buried here, and on what occasion ? Where is Hanover ? 
Wrio^htsville ? Shrewsbury? What other places are mentioned ? What 
are trie productions of agriculture ? Of manufactures ? What canals and 
rail roads are in this county ? Turnpikes ? What is said of education and 
common schools ? Religious societies ? Of the early settlements ? Where 
was the manor of Springettsbury, and of what extent ? Relate some of 
the difficulties that occurred between the Maryland and Pennsylvania 
claimants. How were the disputes terminated ? From whom are the pre- 
sent inhabitants mostly descended ? 



TRAVELLERS' GUIDE: 

CONTAINING THE PRINCIPAL STAGE, KAIL ROAD AND CANAL ROUTES IN 
PENNSYLVANIA, WITH THE DISTANCES FROM PLACE XO PLACE. 



From Philadelphia to 


Miles. 


Miles 


Pittsburg by turnpike. 






To Buck tavern 


10 




Paoh 


9 


]9 


Downingtown 


10 


29 


Coatesville 


7 


36 


Sadsbury 


3 


39 


Paradise 


13 


52 


Lancaster 


10 


62 


Mountjoy 


12 


74 


Elizabethtown 


7 


81 


Middletown 


8 


89 


Harrisburg 


9 


98 


Carlisle 


18 


116 


Shippensburg 


21 


137 


Green Village 


6 


143 


Chambersburg 


5 


148 


St. Thomas 


8 


156 


Loudon 


6 


162 


M'Connellstown 


7 


169 


Juniata crossings 


17 


186 


Bloody run 


6 


192 


Bedford 


8 


200 


Shellsburg 


9 


209 


Stoystown 


20 


229 


Laughhntown 


16 


245 


Ligonier 


3 


248 


Youngstown 


10 


258 


Greensburg 


10 


268 


Adamsburg 


6 


274 


Stewartsville 


7 


281 


Pittsburg 


19 


300 



From Philadelphia to 


Miles. 


Miles 


Pittsburg by the north- 






ern tur?ipike. 






To Harrisburg, as above 


98 




Duncan's Island 


16 


114 


Millerstown 


13 


127 


Thompsontown 


6 


133 


Mexico 


5 


138 


Mifflintown 


3 


•141 


Lewistown 


12 


153 


McVeytown (Waynes- 






burg) 


11 


164 


Huntingdon 


22 


186 


Alexandria 


8 


194 


Frankstown 


16 


210 


HoUidaysburg 


3 


213 


Summit of Allegheny 


10 


223 


Munster 


4 


227 


Ebensburg 


5 


232 


Armagh 


18 


250 


Blairsville 


14 


264 


New Alexandria 


8 


270 


New Salem 


8 


278 


Murraysville 


7 


285 


Pittsburg 


21 


306 


From Philadelphia to 






Pittsburg by rail road 






and canal. 






I.Philadelphia and Co- 






lumbia r. T. 






To Schuylkill viaduct 


3 





TRAVELLERS' GUIDE. 



379 





Miles. 


Miles. 


Buck tavern 


8 


11 


Spread Eagle 


5 


16 


Paoli 


5 


21 


Warren 


2 


23 


Valley creek 


7 


30 


Downingtown 


3 


33 


Coatesvitle 


8 


41 


Parkesburg 


5 


46 


Gap tavern 


6 


52 


Mill creek 


5 


57 


Soudersburg 


3 


60 


Lancaster 


9 


69 


Mount Pleasant 


8 


77 


Columbia 


5 


82 


2. Eastern Division of 






Pennsylvania canal. 






Marietta 


3 


85 


Bainbridge 


6 


91 


Middletown 


8 


99 


Highspire 


3 


102 


Harrisburg 


6 


108 


Dauphin 


8 


116 


Mouth of Juniata 


8 


124 


3. Juniata Division of 






canaL 






Newport 


10 


134 


Thompsontown 


11 


145 


Mexico 


7 


152 


Miffiintown 


4 


156 


Lewistown 


14 


170 


McVeytown 


14 


184 


Aughwick Falls 


12 


196 


Huntingdon 


17 


213 


Petersburg 


7 


220 


Alexandria 


7 


227 


Williamsburg 


13 


240 


Frankstown 


10 


250 


HoUidaysburg 


3 


253 


4. Alleghe7iy Portage r. r. 
Inclined "Plane No. 10 






4 


257 


Summit level 


6 


263 


Conemaugh viaduct 


19 


282 


Tunnel 


4 


286 


Johnstown 


4 


290 


5. Western Division of 






canal. 






Laurel Hill 


6 


296 


Lockport 


10 


306 


Blairsville 


13 


319 


Saltzburg 


16 


335 


Salt works 


7 


342 


Warrentown 


5 


347 


Leechburg 


10 


357 


Allegheny aqueduct 


3 


360 


Freeport 


2 


362 


Logan's ferry 


13 


375 


Pine creek 


12 


387 


Pittsburg 


7 


394 



From Philadelphia 

Wilmington. 
To Darby 

Chester 

Marcus Hook 

Wilmington 



to 



to 



Miles. 


Miles. 


7 




8 


15 


5 


20 


8 


28 



From Philadelphia 

Port Deposit. 
To Darby 

Nether Providence 

Concord 

Kennet Square 

New London X roads 

Port Deposit 

From Philadelphia via 
West Chester to Lan- 
caster. 

To Haverford 
Newton 
West Chester 
Marshalton 
Gap 

Strasburg 
Lancaster 

From Philadelphia via 

Reading and Pottsville 

to Northumberland. 
To Norristown 

Trappe 

Pottstown 

Reading 

Hamburg 

Orwigsburg 

Pottsville 

Newcastle 

Mahanoy creek 

Shamokin creek 

Sunhury 

Northumberland 
From Philadelphia via 

Bethlehem and Wilkes 

barre to Montrose. 
To Germantown 

Chestnut hill 

Spring house 

Montgomery square 

Lexington 

Sellersville 

Quakertown 

Fryburg 

Bethlehem 

Nazareth 

Windgap 

Mount Pocono 

Stoddartsville 

WUkesbarre 



7 

6 

8 

12 

10 

18 



12 
5 

10 
4 

17 
7 
8 



16 
9 
10 
17 
15 
11 



14 

12 

2 



6 
3 

8 

4 

4 

7 

5 

6 

8 

8 

8 

14 

12 

18 



13 
21 
33 
43 
61 



17 

27 
31 
48 
55 
63 



25 

35 

52 

67 

78 

86 

90 

98 

112 

124 

126 



9 
17 
21 
25 
32 
37 
43 
51 
59 
67 
81 
93 
111 



380 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



Kingston 

New Troy 

Exeter 

Eaton 

Tunkhannock 

Springville 

Montrose 

From Philadelphia to 

Easton. 
To Rising Sun 

Jenkintown 

Willow Grove 

Horsham 

Doylestown 

Danborough 

Ottsville 

Monroe 

Easton 

From Philadelphia to 
. Easton by river and 

canal. 
To Bristol 

Morrisville 

Yardleyville 

Taylorsville 

Brownsburg 

Newhope 

Lumberville 

Point Pleasant 

Erwinna 

Monroe 

Easton 

From Philadelphia to 

Trenton. 
To Frankford 

Holmesburg 

Andalusia 

Bristol 

Tullytown 

Morrisville 

Trentun 

From Easton to Milford. 
To Richmond 

Delaware water gap 

Stroudshurg 

Coolbaugh's 

Bushkill 

Dingman'sferrv 

Milford 

From Milford to Owego, 

New York. 
To Tafton 

Clarkstown 

Carbondale 



Miles. 


Miles. 


1 


112 


4 


116 


9 


125 


2 


127 


15 


142 


10 


152 


13 


165 


3 




7 


10 


3 


13 


3 


16 


8 


24 


4 


28 


11 


39 


6 


45 


11 


56 


20 




10 


30 


4 


34 


4 


38 


3 


41 


4 


45 


7 


52 


2 


54 


7 


61 


8 


69 


11 


80 


5 




4 


9 


4 


13 


6 


19 


4 


23 


6 


29 


1 


30 


14 




11 


25 


4 


29 


7 


36 


6 


42 


13 


55 


8 


63 


24 




15 


39 


3 


42 



Dundaff 

Lenox 

Harford 

Montrose 

Friendsville 

Owego 

From Easton to Great 

Bend. 
To Wind gap 

Stanhope 

Sterling 

Clarkstown 

Mount Pleasant or 

Belmont 

Great Bend 

From Easton via Maucli 

Chunk to Berwick. 
To Bath 

Kernsville 

Cherryville 

Lehigh Gap 

Lehighton 

Mauch Chunk 

Beaver Meadow 

Hazelton 

Conyngham 

Berwick 

From Easton to Reading. 
To Bethlehem 

Allentown 

Trexlertown 

Kutztown 

Reading 

From Reading to Har- 

rishurg. 
To Womelsdorf 

Myerstown 

Lebanon 

Palmyra 

Hummelstown 

Harriseurg 



From Harrisburg 
Pottsville. 

To Linglestown 
West Hanover 
East Hanover 
Jonestown ' 

Stumpstown 
Pinegrove 
Friedensburg 
Schuylkill Haven 
Pottsville 



to 



Miles. 
7 
7 
6 
9 
10 
19 



13 

20 
15 

20 

12 
23 



10 
5 
4 
4 
8 
4 

12 
4 
6 

10 



12 
6 

8 

9 

18 



14 
7 
6 

10 
6 
9 



5 
5 
4 
10 
9 
4 
5 



TRAVELLERS' GUIDE. 






Miles. 


Miles. 




Miles 


From Harrishurg to 






From Lancaster to Read- 




Wilkesharre. 






ing. 




To Duncan's Island 


16 




To Neffsville 


4 


New Buffalo 


4 


20 


Litiz 


4 


Liverpool 


11 


31 


Ephrata 


8 


M'Kee's half falls 


9 


40 


Reamstown 


4 


Selinsgrove 


12 


52 


Adamstown 


5 


Northumberland 


4 


56 


Reading 


10 


Danville 


12 


68 






Bloomsburg 


9 


77 


From Lancaster via York 




Berwick 


12 


89 


and Gettysburg to 




Nariticoke 


17 


106 


Chambershurg. 




Wilkesharre 


9 


115 


To Columbia 
Wrightsville 


10 

1 


From Northumberland to 






York 


11 


Bellefonte via Wil- 
liamsport. 






Abbottstown 
Oxford 


15 
5 


To Mihon 


12 




Gettysburg 


9 


Muncy 


12 


24 


Chambershurg 


25 


Williamsport 
Jersey shore 
Loch Haven 


14 
14 
10 


38 
52 
62 


From Gettysburg to 
j\r Connellstown, via 




Bellefonte 


24 


86 


Greencastle. 
To Fairfield 


8 


From Harrishurg to Erie 

via Lewistown. 
To Lewistown 


55 




Waynesboro 

Greencastle 

Mercersburg 


13 

9 

10 


Bellefonte 


30 


85 


M' Connellstown 


10 


Milesburg 
Philipsburg 


2 
24 


87 
111 


From Carlisle to Balti- 
more. 




Clearfield 
Curwinsville 
Brookville 
Clarion 


16 

5 

35 

20 


127 
132 
167 

187 


To York springs 
East Berlin 
Abbottstown 
Hanover 


14 
7 
3 
6 


Franklin 

Meadville 

Erie 


25 
24 
38 


213 
237 
275 


Reisterstown, Md. 
Baltimore 

From Baltimore to Whee- 


28 
16 


From Harrishurg toHa- 






ling. 




gerstown, Maryland, 






To Frederick by rail road 


60 


by Chambershurg rail 






Hagerstown 


25 


road. 






Clear spring 


11 


To Mechanicsburg 


8 




Hancock 


13 


Carlisle 


10 


18 


Bevansville 


17 


Newville 


12 


30 


Flintstone 


10 


Shippensburg 


10 


40 


Cumberland 


13 


Chamhershirg 


12 


52 


Frostburg 


10 


Greencastle 


11 


63 


Little crossing 


10 


Hagerstown 


11 


74 


State line 
Petersburg, Pa. 


13 

2 


From Harrishurg to Bal- 






Somerfield(Smithfield) 


4 


timore. 






Uniontown 


21 


To New Cumberland 


3 




Brownsville 


12 


York Haven 


11 


14 


Beallsville 


8 


Liverpool 


4 


18 


Hillsboro 


3 


York 


6 


24 


Washington 

Claysville 


11 


Shrewsbury or Stras- 






11 


burg 


14 


38 


West Alexandria 


6 


Baltimore 


34 


72 


Wheeling, Va. 


15 



J81 



382 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



From Bedford to Wheel- 

To Somerset 
Mount Pleasant 
West Newton 
Monongahela city 
IVashington 
Wheeling 

From Pittsburg to Wheel- 
ing. 

To Harriotsville 
Canonsburg 
Washington 
Wheeling 

From Pittsburg to Erie. 
To Bakerstown 
Woodville 



Miles. 


Miles. 


37 




25 


62 


14 


76 


10 


86 


20 


106 


32 


138 


10 




8 


18 


7 


25 


32 


57 


16 




6 


22 



Butler 

Centreville 

Mercer 

JSIeadville 

Waterford 

Erie 

From Pittsburg to Bea- 
ver. 

To Sewickly bottom 
Economy 
Beaver 

From Ebensburg to But- 
ler. 

To Indiana 
Kittaning 
Butler 



Miles. 
8 
15 
16 
30 
23 
15 



14 
4 
10 



26 
26 
20 



Miles. 
30 
45 
61 
91 
114 
129 



18 
28 



52 
72 



CONGRESSIONAL DISTRICTS, EACH ELECTING ONE REPRESEN- 
TATIVE.* 



I. Southwark, Moyamensinw and Passyunk, in the county of Phila- 
delphia, and Cedar ana New Market wards of the city. 
II. The city of Philadelphia, except Cedar and New Market wards. 

III. Northern Liberties and Spring Garden, in Philadelphia county. 

IV. Kensington, North and South Penn, Roxborough, Germantown, 
Bristol, Unincorporated Northern Liberties, Oxford, Lower Dublin, 
Byberry, Moreland, Blockley, West Philadelphia, and Kingses- 

sing, in Philadelphia county. 

V. Delaware and Montgomery. 
VI. Bucks and Lehigh. 

VIl. Chester. 
VIII. Lancaster. 
IX. Berks. 

X. Northampton, Carbon, Monroe, Pike, and Wayne. 
XL Luzerne, Columbia and Wyoming. 
XII. Bradford, Susquehanna and Tioga. 

XIII. Lycoming, Northumberland, Union and CUnton. 

XIV. Dauphin, Lebanon and Schuylkill; 
XV. Adams and York. 

XVI. Cumberland, Perry and Franklin. 
XVII. Centre, Huntingdon, Juniata, and Mifflin. 
XVIII. Greene, Fayette and Somerset. 

XIX. Westmoreland, Bedford and Cambria. 

XX. Washington and Beaver. 

XXI. Allegheny. 
XXTI. Venango, Mercer and Crawford. 

XXIII. Erie, Warren, McKean, Clarion, Potter and Jefferson. 

XXIV. Butler, Armstrong, Indiana and Clearfield. 

* Senators in Congress are elected by the Legislature. 



REPRESENTATIVE DISTRICTS. 

STATE SENATORIAL DISTRICTS. 



1. City of Philadelphia 

2. County of Philadelphia . - - 

3. Montgomery . - - - 

4. Chester and Delaware ... 

5. Berks . - - - - 

6. Bucks .... - 

7. Lancaster and Lebanon 

8. Schuylkill, Carbon, Monroe and Pike 

9. Northampton and Lehigh 
10.. Susquehanna, Wayne and Wyoming 

11. Bradford and Tioga - - - 

12. Lycoming, Clinton and Centre 

13. Luzerne and Columbia 

14. Northumberland and Dauphin 

15. Mifflin, Juniata and Union 

16. Perry and Cumberland ... 

17. York .... 

18. Frankhn and Adams - - - 

19. Huntingdon and Bedford 

20. Clearfield, Indiana, Cambria and Armstrong 

21. Westmoreland and Somerset 

22. Fayette and Greene ... 

23. Washington . - - - 

24. Allegheny and Butler - . - 

25. Beaver and Mercer . - . 

26. Crawford and Venango - - . 

27. Erie - - . . - 

28. Warren, Jefferson, Clarion, McKean and Potter 



SENATORS. 

2 
- 3 



33 



REPRESENTATIVE DISTRICTS. 





Reps. 


Reps. 


Adams 


- 


1 


Brought forward - - 33 


Allegheny 


- 


4 


Erie ----- 2 


Armstrong 


- 


1 


Franklin ----- 2 


Bedford - 


- 


2 


Fayette - - - - 2 


Beaver 




2 


Cambria ----- l 


Bradford - - - 


. 


2 


Lebanon - - - - 1 


Berks 




4 


Greene - - - . . 1 


Bucks . - . 


- 


3 


Huntingdon - - . . 2 


Butler 




1 


Indiana 1 


Crawford 


. 


2 


Jefferson, Clarion and Venango 2 


Centre and Clearfield 




2 


Philadelphia county - - 8 


Chester 


- 


3 


Philadelphia city - - - 5 


Columbia 




1 


Montgomery - - - 3 


Cumberland 


. 


2 


York - - . .3 


Delaware 




1 


Lancaster ... - 5 


Dauphin - - - 


- 


2 


Schuylkill .... 2 



33 



73 



384 



GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



Brought forward 
Lehigh and Carbon 
Northampton and Monroe 
Luzerne 

Wayne and Pike 
Susquehanna and Wyoming 
Tioga .... 
Lycoming, Clinton and Potter 
Mifflin 



Reps. 




Reps. 


73 


Brought forward 


- 87 


2 


Northumberland 


- 1 


- 3 


Union and Juniata 


2 


2 


Perry 


- 1 


- 1 


Somerset - - . 


] 


2 


Mercer 


- 2 


- 1 


Washington 


2 


2 


Westmoreland - 


- 3 


1 


Warren and McKean - 


1 



87 



100 



THE END. 



TForks PubUsbed by Edward C. Biddle. 



MANUAL OF CLASSICAL LITERATURE, from the German of 
John J. Eschenburg. With Additions by Prof. Fiske of Amherst College. 
The work comprises five parts: — 1. Classical Geography and Chronology. 
2. The Greek, and Roman Mythology. 3. The Greek and Roman Anti- 
quities. 4. The Archaeology of Greek and Roman Literature and Art. 
5. The Greek and Roman Classic Authors. Fourth Edition, Sixth thou- 
sand. With Copper-plate and Wood engravings. Illustrating nearly 500 
different objects. Accompanied by a supplemental volume, containing 31 
illustrative copper- plate engravings. 
Mr. Edward C. Biddle, 

Sir,— At your request I have examined the "Manual of Classical Literature, 
from the German of J. J. Eschenburg, Professor in the Carolinum at Brunswick, 
with Additions," and am prepared to state, without reserve, that I consider it the 
best assistant to the classical student of all the works of the kind that have ever 
met my eye. It ought to be in the hands, not only of every tyro in the commence- 
ment of his classical career, but should find a place in the library of every lover of 
Grecian and Roman literature. It is a most valuable acquisition to the academies 
and colleges of our country. With great pleasure I recommend it to the patronage 
of a liberal public. Very respectfully. 

Sir, yours, &c. SAML. B. WYLIE, 

University, May 25, 1836. Vice-Provost of the University of Fenn, 

We cheerfully concur in the above opinion of Dr. Wylie. 

JOHN FROST. 
WILLIAM RUSSELL. 

From Rev. H. B. Hackett, Professor of Classical Literature in Brown University. 

"The Manual of Classical Literature" is, in my opinion, the most valuable work 
of the kind which has yet been given to the public. It goes farther towards the 
supply of a want which teachers have long felt, than any similar work with which 
I am acquainted. 

From Rev. J. Todd, author of the "Student's Manual," and the ^^Sabbath-school Teacher.'* 
This book ought to be in the library of every professional man, the physician, 
the lawyer, and the clergyman. There is an amount of information condensed in 
this volume, which amazes one who has known the toil of trying to gather up in- 
formation in his study. No professional man can afford to lose what he must lose 
if unacquainted with this work. And as to students, I have no doubt they will 
gladly obtain it. Professor Fiske has made himself a benefactor to our young men, 
and they will do injustice to themselves, not to follow in the path which he has 
opened. 

From A. S. Packard, Professor of the Latin and Greek Languages and Classical Lite- 
rature in Bowdoin College. 

The American student has now access to important sources of information, from 
which he has hitherto been, for the most part, excluded. In regard to the labours 
of the translator, especially in the additions he has made to the work, I very 
cheerfully respond to the general sentiment which has been expressed in favour 
of their great value. 

From Mr. John D. Ogilby, A.M., Editor of Homer, Virgil, Lempriere's Classical Dic- 
tionary, Sfc; and Professor of Latin and Ghreek Languages in Rutgers College, JVew 
Brunswick, JV*. J. 

I have for several years, in the course of my teaching, felt the want of a Manual 
like Eschenburg's, but had little expectation that the want would be so soon and 
so well supplied. I examined the work when it first appeared, and determined to 
adopt it as a text-book in the department under my charge. The favourable opi- 
nion, which was the result of my first perusal, has since been confirmed by daily 
use with my classes ; and I am well assured that its popularity in our colleges and 
classical schools will more than realize the expectations of its able editor, and 
abundantly reward the enterprise of its publishers. 

From the Rev. Solomon Peck, formerly Professor of Latin and Hebrew in Amherst Col- 
lege, and late Professor of Classical Literature and Philosophy in Brown University. 

Eschenburg's "Manual of Classical Literature," translated, with additions, by 
Professor Fiske, will be found a truly valuable help in the study of the Ancient 
Classics. The original work has for many years enjoyed distinguished favour 
with German scholars ; and the English copy has been prepared with due regard 
to neatness and accuracy. The additions appear to have been made with good 
judgment, especially in the department of Greek literature. As an introduction 
to classical authors, I am acquainted with no work of equal merit. It is compre- 
hensive in its plan, and its materials are select, and judiciously arranged. 



>rorl£S Published by Edward €. Hiddle. 



From C. H. Alden-, A. M., Chairman of the Examining Committee of the American As- 
sociation for the Supply of Teachers, and Principal of the Philadelphia Female High 
School. 

Sir, — I have with care looked over a very valuable work, lately from your press, 
"Eschenburg's Manual of Classical Literature," and I close the volume with feel- 
ings which prompt me to state to you, in a few words, my opinion of its merits. 
Its title is sufficiently indicative of its contents, but without examination, no scholar 
would suppose that in about 650 pages are comprised full, but concise and able, 
treatises on the following subjects : — Archteology of Greek and Roman Literature 
and Arts, History of Greek and Roman Literature, Mythology of the Greeks and 
Romans, Greek and Roman Antiquities, and Classical Geography and Chronology. 
A glance at these subjects will show, that if sutliciently exact, this Manual will 
supply the place of some four or five volumes, which the diiiaent student finds it 
useful often to consult. The portion devoted to the view of the Classical Authors 
may seem too limited, and yel all that can be easily retained in memory, i. e. the 
most important facts, are given. In other respects I am not disposed to wish it 
enlarged by the addition of a single paragraph. The fact that this Manual has 
gone through seven or eight editions in Germany^ a country, most of all, celebrated 
for classical attainments, is of itself no mean commendation of its excellence ; and 
it is somewhat singular that three or four eminent classical scholars, in distant 
parts of our country, were engaged in the translation of it at the same time, un- 
known to each other : so general is the conviction of its utility among us. Though 
Professor Fiske very modestly comes before the public as a translator of the work 
only, it will be found that many and very important additions and useful altera- 
tions are made. Besides what is necessary on the subject of the value of Greek 
and Roman coins, there are interesting additions to the text of Eschenburg re- 
specting the remains of Athens and Rome, and a condensed view of the sacred 
writings, and the writings of the early Christians, as found in the Greek language. 
The whole of part five is also added. Professor Fiske deserves much from our 
scholars for this excellent epitome, and I have little doubt that he will be gratified 
by its extensive circulation and use. It is well adapted to our high schools and 
academies, as well as indispensable to the college student, unless, indeed, he 
would have the trouble to refer often to Adams, Lempriere, Urquhart, and others. 
In every public and private library it deserves a place, and will no doubt find one, 
when the work becomes generally known. 

Very respectfully, CHARLES HENRY ALDEN. 

July 7, 1836, 

The following extracts are from a critical notice of the " Manual,*' puhlished in the Bi- 
blical Repository, Andover, Mass. 

" Eschenburg's Manual of Classical Literature" has long had a high reputation 
in Europe, having gone through seven or eight editions in German, and one in a 
French translation. The author zealously extended a taste for English literature 
in Germany, having translated the works of Burney, Shakspeare, &c. Among 
his publications, the one now first presented to the American public, and which 
has been adopted as the basis of public and private instruction in the major part 
of the colleges and universities in Germany, is designed to form a complete manual 
of the most essential aids in reading the classical authors. The matter, in the 
American dress, is arranged under five parts, or heads : — Part I. Archaeology of 
Literature and Art. Part II. History of Ancient Literature, Greek and Roman. 
Part III. Mythology of the Greeks and Romans. Part IV. Greek and Roman An- 
tiquities. Part VT Classical Geography and Chronology. The volume is divided 
into about GOO paragraphs, for the sake of convenient reference. These are printed 
in a larger type, and are for the most part a translation from Eschenburg. In- 
serted between many of these paragraphs are a large number of references, ex- 
planatory remarks, illustrations, &c., nearly all from the pen of the translator. 
In these additions, Professor Fiske has rendered more complete the great design 
of the work, in that which constitutes its peculiarity, and distinguishes it from 
other works in the language. 

As to the need of such a work as this of Eschenburg, there can be but one opi- 
nion. Some valuable detached sources of information maybe found, like Potter's 
Antiquities ; but no comprehensive, copious, and at the same time select and dis- 
criminating manual on the subject has been within the reach of the mass of students. 
The statement of the contents of the work of Eschenburg just given, will furnish 
some idea of the comprehensive nature, as well as the scientific arrangement of the 
topics ; both of which are characteristic of the volume. The number of works 
referred to, the various sources and materials for further illustration and investi- 
gation, are very great. While these will not impede the progress of the young 
student, being for the most part thrown into a small and separate type, they will 
furnish the advanced scholar clues and hints for more extended and profound re^- 
search. The references are not merely to German works, but to English publica- 
tions, and frequently to important articles in our periodical Reviews. The manner 
in which the translator has executed his work needs no commendation from us. 



ITorks Published by Fd\%ard C Biddle. 



To an acquaintance with the German language, he adds the practical experience 
derived from the many years in which he has been employed in classical instruc- 
tion in two of our principal colleges. The volume will find a place in our college 
text books • in our academies and higher schools ; and in many private libraries, 
it will fill the same place in classical literature which the works of Jahn do in bi- 
blical A part of the translation is by Professor Cruse, late of the University of 
Pennsylvania J and Part V. is not the original German. 

From the Boston Recorder. 
We have no hesitation in saying, this is the most comprehensive and valuable 
work of the kind which has appeared in the English language. Eschenburg was 
one of the most distinguished scholars of Germany. Six editions of his work were 
published before his death, (in 18-20,) to each of which useful improvements were 
made under his own eye. A French translator of the work remarks, " It is suffi- 
cient encomium on the book, that it had been adopted as the basis of public and 
private instruction in the major part of the universities and colleges in Germany." 
The present volume is divided into five parts: I. Archteology of Literature and 
Art II Historyof Ancient Literature, Greek and Roman. III. Mythology of the 
Greeks and Ronians. IV. Greek and Roman Antiquities. V. Classical Geography 
and Chronologv. The work is divided into sections of great convenience for re- 
ference. The intervals are occupied with notes, illustrations, and references, by 
Professor Fiske. These are very numerous and valuable, as they render more 
complete the design of the work, and furnish a vast amount of important matter in 
a small compass. The notes and references do great honour to the translator, as 
an accomplished, judicious, and diligent scholar. 

EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE TRANSLATOR. 

From Rev. Edward Robinson, late Professor Extraordinary at the Theological Semi- 
nary, Andover. 
I formerly had occasion to make considerable use of the original " Manual" of 
Eschenburg; and have ever regarded it as the best work of the kind extant. It 
is the production of an elegant and philosophical mind, perfectly at home in its 
acquaintance with the subjects of which- it treats. It was therefore with great 
pleasure that I learned your intention of translating and preparing the work for 
the benefit of American students ; not only because I had entire confidence that 
you would do it well, but also because you would thus in a good measure fill out 
what has hitherto been a blank in English literature. 

From his Excellency Edward Everett, formerly Professor of Greek Literature in Har- 
vard University . 
I am acquainted with the work in the original, and have always regarded it as 
one of the best of the class. I know of no volume which contains so much infor- 
mation, in every department of classical literature. I have, of course, had very 
little time, since I received your translation, to form an opinion, by actual exami- 
nation, of its merits ; but as far as I have looked into it, and after a cursory peru- 
sal of a few of the leading chapters, I feel warranted in saying that you have aug- 
mented considerably the value of the work. I regard your translation of it as an 
important service rendered to the study of classical literature. 

The following is from Mr. Solomon Stoddard, lately a Teacher in Tale College, and in 
the Kew Haven Gymnasium, and one of the authors of the J^eio Latin Grammar. 
Professor Fiske has rendered an important service to the cause of classical learn- 
ing, by his translation of the "Manual" of Eschenburg. The original work con- 
tains a large amount of valuable matter in a comprehensive and convenient form; 
and the additions of the translator are judicious and important. As a whole, it 
furnishes such a storehouse of information to the classical student as is not other- 
wise accessible to him, except in large and numerous volumes. I cordially recom- 
mend it to the attention and the study of teachers and scholars. 

The following is from a letter from Rev. Moses Stuart, Professor of Sacred Literature 
in the Theological Seminary, £ndover. 
As to the value of "Eschenburg," there can, I think, be but one opinion among 
competent judges. We surely have no work in English which will compare with 
it. I hope that it will be introduced, and made a necessary part of apparatus, m 
every Latin and Greek school and in every college in our country. The additions 
which you have made in the notes, and in Part V., will surely be deemed an im- 
portant part of the book, for American students. If minute investigators in Bibli- 
ography, Mythology, &c., should discover some errors in your book, you must not 
be disheartened, but rather encouraged to go on with your plan. In a work of such 
a nature, to avoid all error in the innumerable facts and dates which are stated, is 
out of the question. 
l,-^ 



Works Publisbed by Edward €. Biddle. 



CLASSICAL AJNTIQUITIES, being the first three parts of the Manual 
of Classical Literature, from the German of J. J. Eschenburg, Professor 
in the Carolinum at Brunswick. With Additions by Professor Fiske of 
Amherst College. Fourth edition, with copper-plate and woodcut engrav- 
ings, illustrating more than 300 different objects. 

This work is designed for use in High Schools and Seminaries prepara- 
tory for College. It is an 8vo. volume of about 350 pages, and embraces 
five distinct treatises: — 1. Classical Geography and Topography ; 2. Clas- 
sical Chronology; 3. Greek and Roman Mythology; 4. Greek Antiqui- 
ties ; 5. Roman Antiquities. 

No other work in the English language includes all these important 
subjects, brought within one volume, and adapted for the student's daily 
use. At the same time, each treatise is sufficiently full for all the common 
wants of the scholar, and on some points more full than any woik hitherto 
used in our Seminaries. It furnishes also, on the principal subjects, refer- 
ences to other sources of information : a pecuUarity which greatly enhances 
its value both to pupil and teacher. 

From Professor A. S. Packard. 

As it respects the portion published separately for Academies, I do not hesitate to say, 
that it has advantages over similar works designed for students, and ought to be in their 
hands scarcely less than the Dictionary or Grammar, 

From Rev. R. E. Pattison, President of Waterville College. 

I have examined with considerable attention the " Manual of Classical Literature," and 
especiaJly the first, second and third parts [the parts included in the volume entitled " Clas- 
sical Antiquities"]; and I certify with entire cheerfulness my opinion, that the work is one 
of much value, and that in preparing it, the author has rendered to the cause of learning an 
essential service. 

Prof. Barnes, who instructs in the Latin and Greek classics in this College, allows me to 
express his full approbation of the work as an important aid in his department of instruction. 

From Rev. L. Coleman, late Principal of the Burr Seminary, Manchester, VI., now 
Principal of the Teacher's Seminary, Andover, Mass. 

It is with peculiar pleasure that I learn that the part of the " Manual of Classical Lite- 
rature," relating to the Mythology and Antiquities of the Greeks and Romans, together 
with that relating to Classical Geography and Chronology, is given to the public in a sepa- 
rate form, adapted to youth belonging to our Academies and Classical Seminaries. As an 
instructer of youth, I have long felt the want of some such manual to aid them in the study 
of Classical literature. To all who are pursuing a course of Classical study, this Compend 
should be, not a book of reference, but a text-book faithfully studied and familiarly known. 

From Mr. J. S. Fancher, Principal of the Northampton High School. 

I have carefully examined the " Classical Antiquities," by Professor Fiske, and consider 
it a book of which every Classical student should avail himself in his preparatory studies. 
I design to introduce it in my school as soon as it can be obtained. 

From Rev. D. R. Austin, Principal of Monson Academy. 

I have long felt the need of such a work for Classical scholars in the early stages of their 
education. The epitome of Classical Geography and Chronology is of peculiar importance, 
as it opens a rich fund of information upon these subjects, which are generally very imper- 
fectly understood. — After a thorough examination of Professor Fiske's Manual, I am deeply 
impressed with a sense of its unrivalled excellence. 

From Rev, L. Sabin, late Principal of Hopkins Academy, Hadley, Mass. 

I have carefully examined the Manual of Classical Antiquities, being a detached portion, 
bound separately from the "Manual of Classical Literature." I perused the Classical 
Antiquities with much interest and pleasure, which increased at every step by seeing so 
great an amount of Classical learning so accurately and perspicuously systematized and con- 
densed. It appears to me that the work is admirably fitted for extensive use in our Acade- 
mies and High Schools. As a text-book, to be studied in connexion with Virgil, Cicero, 
&c., bv those who are commencing a course of liberal study, such a work is needed; it 
cannot be dispensed with by those who would be thoroughly prepared for the study of the 
other classics. And those students who would acquire an education without the system of 
a College, and would even confine themselves to studies in English, will be well paid for 
their time and labour in the thorough study of the Manual of Classical Antiquities. 



Works PubUslied by Edward €. Biddle. 



JOHNSON'S MOFFAT'S NATURAL THILOSOPHY. — A 
System of Natural Philosophy designed for the use of Schools and Acade- 
mies, on the basis of Mr. J. M. Moffat, comprising Mechanics, Hydrostatics, 
Hydraulics, Pneumatics, Acoustics, Pyronomics, Optics, Electricity, Gal- 
vanism and Magnetism : With Emendations, Notes, Questions for Ex- 
amination, &c. &c. By Prof. VV. R. Johnson. 

The title of the above work has been changed from "Scientific Class Book, 
Part I." 

JOHNSON'S MOFFAT'S CHEMISTRY.— An Elementary Trea- 
tise on Chemistry, together with Treatises on Metallurgy, Mineralogy, 
Chrystallography, Geology, Oryctology and Meteorology, designed for 
the use of Schools and Academies; on the basis of Mr. J. M. Moffat: 
With Additions, Emendations, Notes, References, Questions for Ex- 
amination, &-C. <S6c. By Prof. W. R. Johnson. 

The title of the above work has been changed from " Scientific Class Book, 
Part II." 

The Board of Controllers of the Public Schools of the First School District of 
Pennsylvania, at a meeting held March 8, 1842, authorized the introduction into 
the Grammar Schools of the District, of the above works by Prof Johnson. 

Mr. Edward C. Biddle, — Philadelphia, June 22, 1835. 

I have carefully examined your " Scientific Class Book, Part I.," and find it what 
has for some time been much wanted in our academies and high schools. The 
emendations, notes, and additional illustrations, are important, and what might 
be expected from one so perfectly at home, both theoretically and practically, in 
the range of Natural Philosophy, as Mr. Johnson is extensively known to be. The 
list of works for reference will be appreciated by intelligent teachers. I have in- 
troduced it as a Text-Book, and commend it cordially to the notice and examina- 
tion of others. CHARLES HENRY ALDEN, 
Principal of the Philadelphia High School for Young Ladies. 

Mr. Edward C. Biddle, dth Month 23rf, 1835. 

Sir, — I have examined the first part of the Scientific Class-Book just published 
by you, and cheerfully express my opinion, that, for accuracy and comprehensive- 
ness, this Work contains a system of principles and illustrations on the subject on 
which it treats, superior to any book of the same size and price intended for the 
use of schools. 

As this volume is the first of a series on the Mechanical and Physical Sciences, 
the public may confidently expect that the successive parts, when completed, will 
constitute a consistent set of treatises peculiarly adapted to the present wants of 
places of education. JOHN M. KEAGY. 

We cheerfully concur in opinion with the above recommendations. 

JOS. P. ENGLES, WILLIAM MARRIOTT, 

HUGH MORROW, RIAL LAKE, 

WM. A. GARRIGUES, BENJAMIN MAYO, 

M. SOULE, JAMES P. ESPY, 

JACOB PEIRCE, REV. SAML. W. CRAWFORD, A. M., 

BENJAMIN C. TUCKER, Principal of the Acadl. Dept. of the 

T. G. POTTS, University of Pennsylvania. 

WM. CURRAN, THOMAS McADAM, 

S. BICKNELL, CHARLES MEAD, 

D. R. ASHTON, JAS. E. SLACK, 
EL. FOUSE, L. W. BURNET, 
C. FELTT, WM. MANN, A. M. 
THOMAS BALDWIN, CHAS. B. TREGO, 
JOHN STOCKDALE, -WM. ROBERTS, 
URIAH KITCHEN, THOS. COLLINS, 
THOMAS H. WILSON, SAML. CLENDENIN, 
SHEPHERD A. REEVES, AUGUSTINE LUDINGTON, 

E. H. HUBBARD, JNO. D. GRISCOM, 
WILLIAM McNAIR, N. DODGE, 
JAMES CROWELL, JOHN HASLAM. 

J. O'CONNOR, 

JVew York, July, 1835. 
Having examined the First Part of the Scientific Class-Book, we feel justified in 
concurring in the above favourable recommendations. 

EDW. D. BARRY, DAVID SCHUPER, 

J. M. ELY, F. A. STREETER, 

JOSEPH McKEEN, CHARLES W. NICHOLS, 

JONATHAN B. KIDDER, THOMAS McKEE, 



IVorlis Publislied by Ed^^ard C. Middle. 



PATRICK S. CASSADY, G. I. HOPPER, 

WM. R. ADDINGTOiN, J. B. PECK, 

RUFUS LOCKWOOD, S. JENNER, 

NORTON THAYER, RICHARD J; SMITH. 
JOHN OAKLEY, 

From Alexander D. Bache, A. M., Professor of JVatural Philosophy and Chemistry, 
University of Pennsylvania. 

Mk. Edward C. Biddle, 

Sir,— I have examined, with much pleasure, the first part of the " Scientific 
Class-Book." The additions of the American editor appear to me to have well 
adapted the book for use in schools and academies. Its utility to the general reader 
has no doubt been increased by the same labours. Very respectfully, yours, 

September 16, 1835. A. D. BACHE. 

From JV. W. Fiske., A. M., V. D. M., Professor, Amherst College, Mass. 

Mr. Edward C. Biddle, 

Sir, — The "Scientific Class-Book" appears to me, judging from the portions I 
have yet found time to read, a very excellent work. A vast amount of the most 
interesting and valuable knowledge is brought into a small compass, and is gene- 
rally presented in a very clear and happy method. I hope it will obtain extensive 
circulation, as I know of nothing better adapted for common instruction in the 
sciences which are treated in the part I have seen. 

Very respectfully, I am yours, 

September 21, 1835. N. W. FISKE, 

In the opinion expressed by Professor Fiske, respecting the "Scientific Class- 
Book, Part I.," I can most cheerfully concur. E. S. SNELL, A. M., 
Professor of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy, in Amherst College, 

Massachusetts, 

From. Rev. David R. Austin, A. M., Principal of Monson Academy. 

I fully agree with Professors Fiske and Snell, in regard to the " Scientific Class- 
Book," and shall adopt it in the institution of which I have the charge. 

D. R. AUSTIN. 

Professor Johnson has rendered the public an invaluable service in his "Scien- 
tific Class-Book." It is a treasure of useful knowledge, happily adapted not only 
to the wants of the student, but not less so to the general reader. There is so 
much intrinsic merit in this volume, so much of what every youth of every grade 
in the country should, in some sense, be familiar with, that I am sure it needs only 
to be known to ensure it a wide circulation. Aside from its peculiar merit as a 
class-book for the higher schools, I would say to every young man in the United 
States, about to engage in the business of life, Let the Scientific Class-Book be your 
constant companion. E. H. BURRITT. 

JVeio Britain, Conn., Dec. 7, 1835. 

From Rev. W. C. Fowler, A. M., C. A. S., Professor Middlebury College, Vermont. 
The " Scientific Class-Book" is admirably adapted to the use of high schools 
and academies, as an introduction to the principles of physical science. It is neither 
a meagre sketch on the one hand, nor on the other is it overloaded with facts. 
The principles are distinctly announced, and the illustrations and proofs are inte- 
resting and satisfactory. 

From Albert Hopkins, A. M., Professor of Mathematics and J^atural Philosophy, Wil- 
liams College. 

A work like the "Scientific Class-Book," edited by Professor Johnson, has been 
for some time called for by an increasing taste for science, and a higher standard 
of popular education. Such works ought to meet the popular demand, and to ele- 
vate still higher the standard of attainment. Both these objects, I think, are ade- 
quately secured in the present work. I cheerfully recommend it. 

Williamstown, Mass., February 22, 1836. 

From Aaron JV. Skinner, Esq., A.M., Principal of a Select Classical School, JtTew Haven, 

Connecticut. 

After three months' use, I have no hesitation in saying, that I think the " Scien- 
tific Class-Book" the best work with which I am acquainted for popular and prac- 
tical instruction, when the object is to convey useful and interesting information 
without mathematical demonstrations. Its arrangement is good, and its plan ex- 
tensive, embracing almost all the topics of Physical Science. The great number 
of facts, experiments, and illustrations by drawings, &c., render it a highly attrac- 
tive book to the pupil. I cheerfully recommend it as the best and most complete 
work I have seen for what it is intended, viz. " A familiar Introduction to the 
Principles of Physical Science." 



lYorks Publislied by Edward C. Biddle. 



From Augustus W. Smith, A. M., Professor of J\ratural Philosophy and Mathematics, 
fVesleyan tfnivtrsity, Middletown, Conn. 

An examination of the " Scientific Class-Book, Part I ," published by you, has 
left a very favourable impression. Of the excellencies of this work, there is one 
which establishes its claim to public favour, and will most certainly secure for it a 
speedy triumph over works of similar grade and pretensions. I allude to the in- 
troduction of many scientific facts and principles which have hitherto been buried 
in the voluminous and inaccessible records of learned societies, or are of too recent 



in me voiumiuuus aiiu inavv^ooi^i^^ .^.v.^. ^^ v^. , - — 

developement to have been earlier imbodied in any popular work. It appears to 
me to be one of the very few popular scientific works which are not dignified by 

eir title, and or 

mefaction. 

March 17, 1835. 



me to be one of the very tew popular scienujic woiks wuicu aic jkji. uign.iicu l,j 
their title, and one of the still smaller class which Possess the rner its of a public 
benefaction. . AUGU&TUS W. SMllH. 



From Isaac Webb, Esq., A. M. 

I fully concur in the opinion of the "Scientific Class-Book, Part I.," as ex- 
pressed by Professor Smith. ISAAC WEBB. 
Extract from a Report made to the Lyceum of Teachers, of Philadelphia. 

Your Committee are of opinion that the book (Scientific Class-Book) in question 
is, in almost every respect, superior to the books now in use, on the subjects it 
embraces. They submit the following reasons as the ground of their preference :— 
1. The dilTerent subjects are presented to the student in such a manner, that, 
without some effort on his part, he cannot understand them ; but with that effort, 
he is richly rewarded with an ample fund of valuable facts, arranged, explained, 
and classed in accordance with the recent improvements in physical science. 2. 
At the foot of each page the editor has introduced a few questions so judiciously, 
as to induce the important habit of attention and reflection, without which, to an- 
swer them would be impossible ; thus affording one of the best tests of the actual 
amount of acquirement which the student has made. 3. The work never seems to 
lose sight of the great importance of making all science subservient to the happi- 
ness of man. This, it appears to your Committee, it has done in a high degree, by 
showing to what a great extent the successful prosecution of the arts depends on 
science. 4. The editor appears to have spared no pains in the effort not only to 
render the work in a high degree instructive, but at the same time to introduce 
such interesting (because practical) illustrations, as to make it a very pleasant 
book for those for whom it was designed. In conclusion, your Committee have 
seldom seen a work, intended for youth, in which there is so little to regret and 
so much to approve, as that submitted as the subject of this report. 

From JV. Dodge, A. M., Member of the Examining Committee of the American Associ- 
ation for Supply of Teachers. 
I have examined with as much care as my leisure would permit your " Scientific 
Cla«=s-Book, Part II.," and shall introduce it into my seminary as a text-hook, for 
the subjects of science which it embraces. I am fully convinced, that the scientific 
course presented in these volumes, is decidedly superior in systematic form, as 
well as compass, to any extant in the English language. N. DODGE, 

Principal of Harmony Hall Female Seminary. 

From Colonel James M. Porter, President of Board of Trustees, Lafayette College, 
Easton, J^orthampton Co., Pennsylvania. 

In this age, wherein utility is the true test of value of publications, " the Scientific 
Class-Book" must meet with public favour, because it so fully deserves it. 1 
would recommend it for use in schools, as admirably adapted for the purpose ot 
instructing youth in the principles of the physical sciences ; and master mechanics 
would advance their own interests and promote the knowledge of their appren- 
tices, and consequently the value of their services, by placing the work in their 
hands for perusal ; for " every mechanic art is the reduction to practice of scientmc 
principles," and the better the principles are understood, the "l°''?,P*'^l^^^Ti^'ji ''^ 
that reduction to practice. *•• ™- POKlt-K. 

Easton, Pa., April 6, 1836. 

From Mr. Cleanthes Felt, M. A. 
I have carefully examined the second part of "the Scientific Class-Book," and 
it appears to me to deserve the patronage of those concerned in the education of 
youth. It is, indeed, in my opinion, the very book so long needed ; I, therefore, 
cheerfully recommend it to parents, guardians, and teachers throughout the United 
Stales. 

From Charles Henry Alden, A. M., Teacher, Philadelphia. 

Mr. Edward C. Biddle, . , . , - 

The surest test of the excellence of a book,— its extensive adoption and use,— has 
been applied, and successfully, to the " Scientific Class-Book, Part I. ; and the 



IVorks Publislied by Edward C Biddle. 



success of "Part II.," which you have just published, is therefore not to be 
doubted. Given to the public under the supervision of the same accredited scholar 
as the former volume ; enriched by additional illustrations ; in many places emend- 
ed, and containing a valuable list of bibliographical notices, it can, with propriety, 
be commended to the use of schools and academies, as well as to private families, 
as a most valuable manual. The treatise on Chemistry, Though necessarily very 
short, embraces a perfect outline of the science, and contains the most recent dis- 
coveries. The tracts on Metallurgy, Mineralogy, Chrystallography, Geology, 
Oryctology, and Meteorology, are nowhere more lucidly and attractively explained. 
This volume ought to accompany Part I., wherever that is adopted ; indeed, in 
my opinion, it is more deserving of public favour. 

The style and execution of the "Scientific Class-Book, Part II.," as a produc- 
tion of your press, is highly creditable. 

February 16, 183t). 

From John M. Keagy-, M. D., Professor elect of Dickinson College. 

After an examination of the second volume of the "Scientific Class-Book," I 
fe^ a pleasure in stating that it fully sustains the character given of the previous 
part, as an excellent compend on the subjects of which it treats. The Chemistry 
and Metallurgy, the Geology, and History of Fossils, and the sketch of Meteor- 
ology, are particularly clear and comprehensive, to be comprised within the limits 
of a single duodecimo. JNO. M. KEAGY. 

Philadelphia, February 15, 1836. 

From Professor Beck, Rutgers College, J^ew Brunswick, JV. J. 

"The Book of Science," by Mr. J. M. MoflTat, which forms the basis of the pre- 
sent volume, (Scientific Class-Book,) has already become extensively and de- 
servedly popular in England. Professor Johnson, the American editor of these 
volumes, has greatly improved them by correcting many of the errors contained in 
the original works, and by the addition of many interesting notes, of a set of ques- 
tions for examination, lists of works for reference, &c. They are very properly 
styled "A Popular Introduction to the Principles of Physical Science." On each 
of the subjects treated of, there is an amount of information in these volumes 
which is seldom found in elementary treatises of this description ; while this 
information is set forth in such a manner as peculiarly to engage the attention of 
the pupil. In their composition, the best authorities have been consulted, and 
"due acknowledgments have been made wherever they seemed to be required." 
These works are indeed what they purport to be — Scientific Class-Books ; and Pro- 
fessor Johnson deserves well of the friends of science for the labour which he has 
devoted to the preparing of them for the American public. If the friends of educa- 
tion are really in earnest in the business of improvement, these books will soon 
take the place of those incorrect and defective treatises on the various branches 
of physical science which most unfortunately are now so generally adopted. 

Refuge, near Mechanicsburg, Pa., June 15, 1836. 

Sir, — I have examined your "Scientific Class-Book," Parts I. and II. As the 
result of my examination, I am happy to state that in these books I found a work 
well adapted to, and much wanted in our schools. The editor. Professor Johnson, 
has evinced a sound judgment in the additions made ; and you, as publishers, have 
conferred a lasting favour upon the public in giving this judicious work circulation, 
and I trust it will be generally introduced in all our schools and families. I can 
recommend it as one of the best works extant, on the physical sciences. I shall 
cordially use my influence to give the work an extended introduction into schools, 
lyceums, and families. J. D. RUPP, 

Agent for the Pa. Lyceum. 

From C. H. Anthony, Esq., City Surveyor, (Troy, JV. Y.,) and Lecturer on the JVatural 
and Experimental Sciences. 

As a teacher of the Natural and Experimental Sciences, I have often felt the 
need of some works in all respects adapted to the present state of science in this 
country. My beau ideal of such a work is fully realized in the " Scientific Class- 
Book," parts First and Second ; and I have lost no time in introducing them into 
my school. Part First is excellent; but Part Second I consider as the best text- 
book in general science ever published in the English language. 

From Sam,utl Jones, A. M., of Philadelphia. 

I have already given the First Part of the " Scientific Class-Book" my approval ; 
and now, after having tested the utility of the Second Part, I am fully prepared to 
endorse the favourable opinion expressed by others of its value. 



^Iforfes Publislied by Edward C. Biddle. 



AN ETYMOLOGICAL DICTIONARY OF THE ENGLISH 
LANGUAGE, — On a Plan entirely new. By John Oswald, Author of 
the " Etymological Manual of English Language," and " Outlines of En- 
glish Grammar." Revised and Improved, and especially adapted to the 
purpose of teaching English Composition in Schools and Academies. By 
J. M. Keagy. 

The Board of Controllers of the Public Schools of the First School District of 
Pennsylvania, at a meeting held March 8, 1842, aiithorized the introduction of 
Oswald's Etymological Dictionary into the Grammar Schools of the District. 

Mr. Edward C. Biddle, 

Sir,— In republishing "Oswald's Etymological Dictionary," enriched as it is by 
the sensible and well written "Introduction" of Dr. Keagy, you have done a real 
service to the cause of sound education. It is the best work of the kind (designed 
for schools) that I have yet seen, and it must have an extensive circulation. For 
in every well regulated school taught by competent masters, etymology will form 
a prominent branch of study as long as there is an inseparable connexion between 
clearness of thought and a correct use of language. 

Yours respectfully, C. D. CLEVELAND. 

We fully concur in the above. 

J. M'INTYRE, 
JAMES B. ESPY, 
JNO. SIMMONS, 
B. W. BLACKWOOD, 
E. H. HUBBARD, 

E. NEVILLE, 

F. M. LUBBREN, 
WM. A. GARRIGUES, 
WILLIAM MARRIOTT, 
RIAL LAKE, 
THOS. T. ASPELL, 
A. MITCHELL, 
CHARLES MEAD, 
WM. MANN, 
WILLIAM M'NAIR, 
JOHN STEEL, 
BENJAMIN MAYO, 
JOHN HASLAM, 
CHAS. HENRY ALDEN, 
THOMAS EUSTACE, 
W. CURRAN, 
BENJAMIN TUCKER, 
M. L. HURLBUT, 
T. G. POTTS, 
CHARLES ATHERTON, 
HENRY LONGSTRETH, A. M. 



SAMUEL CLENDENIN, 

E. FOUSE, 

THOMAS CONARD, 

HENRY BILL, 

THOMAS BALDWIN, 

U. KITCHEN, 

DANIEL MAGINIS, 

JOHN EVANS, 

JOSEPH P. ENGLES, 

J. W. ROBERTS, 

BARTRAM KAIGN, 

JNO. D. GRISCOM, 

RICHARD O. R. LOVETT, 

AUGUSTINE LUDINGTON, 

WM. B. ROSE, 

NICHOLAS DONNELLY, 

C. R. FROST, 

WILLIAM ALEXANDER, A. M. 

M. SOULE, 

J. KAPP, 

JOHN STOCKDALE, 

REV. SAML. W. CRAWFORD, A. M., 

Principal of the Acadl. Dept. of the 

Universitv of Pennsylvania. 
THOMAS H. WILSON, 
THOMAS M'ADAM. 



From Mr. William Russell^ A.M., author of an Abridgment of Adams^ Latin Chrammar, 

Teacher, S(c. 

Oswald's "Etymological Dictionary," revised by Dr. Keagy, is a work which 
will be found invaluable in all schools in which attention is paid to the systematic 
study of the English language. The plan and arrangement of this manual are such 
as to bring under a single glance the etymology of all cognate terms, in addition to 
that of the particular word which happens to occur in any instance ; and the ex- 
tent to which this classification is carried, enables the student to command a sur- 
vey, as it were, of the capabilities of our language, in the expression of whole 
classes of ideas. Oswald's Etymological Dictionary possesses, in this respect, an 
advantage over other works of its class; as most of these are restricted to a mere 
alphabetic arrangement of words, in consequence of which it becomes exceed- 
ingly ditficult to obtain a complete view of any series of derivations. 

I am happy to have the opportunity of introducing the Dictionary in my school, 
as I shall find it a useful substitute for oral instruction, in parsing lessons, both in 
Latin and English ; having been accustomed to require a statement of the deriva- 
tion or composition of every word in such lessons before that of its inflection or 
other variations. The use of this work will not, therefore, cause me any extra 
arrangement of classes, while it will be of equal assistance to my pupils and my- 
self. Other teachers may find it convenient to introduce the book in the same or a 
similar way. The merits of the work itself, however, are such as to render it con- 
ducive, in the highest degree, to all purposes of instruction connected with lan- 
guage ; and I have no doubt that it will be adopted in all schools in which an ac- 



ff orks Publisbed by Edirard €. Biddle. 



curate knowledge of etymology is deemed important. Dr. Keagy's preliminary 
essay on the forms of thought as giving origin to those of expression, will greatly 
enhance the value of the work to all teachers who place any reliance on the phi- 
losophy of instruction. WM. RUSSELL, 

No. 92, South 8th street, Philadelphia. 

From Prof. Wines, late of the Central High School, Philadelphia. 

From a somewhat critical examination of Oswald's Etymological Dic- 
tionary, and a somewhat extended observation of its results in various 
classes in which it has been used, I am prepared to express my warm ap- 
probation of the work, and to recommend its general adoption into our 
schools. It is one of the most intellectual class books I have ever met 
with. The spirit in which it is conceived is altogether opposed to that me- 
chanical system of teaching, which so dwarfs and benumbs the intellectual 
powers, and which has heretofore been the bane and the disgrace of so 
many of our educational establishments. When thoroughly studied under 
the direction of a judicious teacher, it cannot fail of producing very marked 
and very valuable results. The Introduction, by the lamented Dr. Keagy, 
is an admirably conceived and admirably executed paper. 

Philadelphia, July 6,1843. E. C. WINES. 

From Mr. TV. G. E. Agnew, Principal of Zane street Public Grammar 
School, Philadelphia. 

" I think there is no work authorized to be used in our public schools, so 
eminently calculated to give a boy a critical knowledge of his own lan- 
guage, and in my opinion there is no school book that I am acquainted 
with, that is so useful ; for without the knowledge imparted by it, no pupil 
can become a successful composer, because he does not fully estimate the 
force of words, unless he perfectly understand their meaning, which he 
cannot do except by examining them radically, and the root is not often 
found in our large lexicons, and scarcely ever, if at all, in our smaller 
school dictionaries. 

" As a book of reference, I think it ought to be found in the library of 
every literary character in the country." 

From Charles Henry Alden^ A. M., Chairman of Examining Committee of the American 
Association for the Supply of Teachers. 

Mr. Edward C. Biddle, — 

I have examined with great interest your " Etymological Dictionary," and I am 
convinced that its use will prove of immense benefit to pupils and students of every 
age. While its prominent design is to furnish a correct knowledge of our lan- 
guage, it will serve also as a most admirable apparatus for mental discipline. To 
the teacher who is not acquainted with the Latin and Greek languages, this work 
is invaluable ; and even to the classical scholar, the number of derivatives placed 
after the several roots, will suggest shades of signification invaluable to him who 
is desirous of expressing his thoughts in definitive terms. 

Dr. Keagy's Introduction is such as a mind like his might be supposed to pro- 
duce. Successfully devoted to elementary instruction for several years, and hav- 
ing given his attention very much to what may be called the philosophy of educa- 
tion, he has here put together a series of facts, and from them deduced principles 
of primary interest to all, especially to parents and teachers. The work ought to 
be adopted as a text-book in our high schools, and be possessed and daily used by 
our students in college. 



From J. B. Walker^ A. B., Teacher, of Philadelphia. 

Such a book as "Oswald's Etymological Dictionary of the English Language" 
has long been a desideratum. I am gratified to find that this excellent work, im- 
proved and rendered more practically useful by the labours of Dr. Keagy, has at 
length been given to the public. It is well fitted to exercise the pupil's powers of 
discrimination and judgment, and to aid him in acquiring a thorough knowledge of 
the Emjlish language. It commends itself to the consideration and adoption of 
teachers. 

10 "^ 



Worlts PublisUed by Edward C. Biddle. 



MAURY'S NAVIGATION — A New Theoretical and Practical 
Treatise on Navigation, in which the Auxiliary Branches of Mathe- 
matics and Astronomy, composed of Algebra, Geometry, Logarithms, 
Plane and Spherical Trigonometry, the Motions of the Heavenly 
Bodies, Tides, Variation of the Compass, &c. are treated of. Also, 
the Theory and most simple Methods of finding Time, Latitude and 
Longitude by Chronometers, Lunar Observations, Single and Double 
Altitudes, are taught. Together with a New and Easy Plan for Find- 
ing Diff. Lat. Dep. Course, and Distance. By M. F. Maury, Passed 
Midshipman, U. S. Navy. 

" U. S. JV. S., JVew York, January 19, 1836. 

" Dear Sir,— I have had much pleasure in the perusal of your " New Theoretical 
and Practical Treatise on Navigation;" the plan and arrangements of which are 
original j it contains little or nothing superfluous, and every part of it appears to 
be as clear and intelligible as the nature of the subject will admit. Such a work 
has long been wanted in our Naval Schools, and on board our vessels of war. I 
intend to make use of it in the Naval School on this station ; and I recommend it 
to be used by all the professors of Mathematics and Nautical Science in the Navy 
of the United States. Yours Respectfully, EDW. C. WARD, 

" Passed Midshipman M. F. Maury, Prof. Math. U. S. Navy," 

U. S. Navy." 

" U. S. J^avy Yard, Oosport, March 7, 1836. 

" I have examined a Treatise on Navigation written by M. F. Maury of the U. S. 
Navy; and have no hesitation in recommending it to the students of that science. 
The explanations are clear, the rules are illustrated by many examples, and the 
new arrangementof someof the tables exemplify the calculations of the navigator. 
Mr. Maury is deserving of great credit for that work, and I wish him every 
success. P. J. RODRIGUEZ, 

" JSTavy Department, ^pril 9, 1836. 
" Sir,— I have to request that you will add the " New Theoretical and Practical 
Treatise on Navigation," by M. F. Maury, Passed Midshipman, to the list of books 
furnished vessels of the navy going to sea. I am respectfully vours, 

"Com. John Rodgers, Signed, M. DICKERSON." 

" President of the Board of Navy Commissioners." 



FRENCH LESSONS FOR BEGINNERS.— L'ABEILLE 
POUR LES EN FANS, ou Le9ons Fran^aises, lere Partie; a 
I'usage des ecoles. 

Several compilations of short and interesting French tales have been lately 
offered to the public. In all of them, however, expressions are found, which, 
although familiar to the ear of a Frenchman, offend that of a carefully educated 
American child. It is true that the French do not consider " Mon Dieu !" swear- 
ing ; with them, it is equivalent to " Gracious !" or " Oh, dear !" but it is certainly 
desirable that the eye and the ear of the pupils of schools in this country should 
not become accustomed to such expressions. They have therefore been carefully 
excluded from this little work, as well as every thing of an unchristian tendency. 
It is designed for the first reading book. The style is simple, the sentences short, 
and containing few idioms, inversions, or difficulties. At the end of each page is a 
translation of the idiomatic expressions it contains, and of the words used in an 
acceptation not given in the dictionary. 

From J. O. de Soter, M.A., Professor of French, Spanish, and Italian, Philadelphia. 

I have examined "L'Abeille pour les Enfans," published by Mr, Edward C. 
Biddle of this city, and am so much pleased with the pure and chaste style of the 
selection, that I shall use it in my instructions with the younger pupils. 

J. G. DE SOTER. 



THE NEW AMERICAN SPEAKER— Being a Selection of 
Speeches, Dialogues, and Poetry, for the Use of Schools. By 
Thomas Hughs. 

From the Rev. S. B. How, D.D., late President of Dickinson College ; and Rev. Dr. 
fVestbrook, Principal of Female Seminary, and Rector of Rutgers College Grammar 
School. 

"'The New American Speaker' contains judicious selections from the writings 
of different authors, and is well adapted to the use of our Schools." 
JVeio Brunswick, February 17, 1836. 

Ti ■ 



ITorks Publlsbed by Edward €. Biddle. 



OUTLINES OF SACRED HISTORY; from the Creation of 
the World to the Destruction of Jerusalem. With questions 
for examination. Intended for the use of Schools and Families. 
New edition, enlarged and improved. Illustrated with 34 en- 
gravings on wood. 

Published in London, under the direction of the Committee of General Literature and 
Education, appointed by the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge. 

NOTICES OF EDITION, 1843. 

From Rev. S. W. Crawford. A., M., Principal of Acad. Dept. of University ofPenn'a. 
Mr. Biddle, 

Dear Sir, — I have used the "Outlines of Sacred History" in the Academical Depart- 
ment, of the University of Pennsylvania, for several years, and am well pleased with it. 
Though an outline, it is sufficiently full for the purposes intended. The composition is 
good, and the leading facts succinctly though clearly stated. The chronological dates 
are a very important and useful part of the work. The poetical portions have been judi- 
ciously selected, and serve to give variety, interest, and animation to the work. 

A faithful study of this book cannot fail to be attended with beneficial results to youth 
in families and schools. 

Philadelphia, March 25th, 1843. S. W. Crawford. 

From John Frost, A. M., Professor of English Belles Lettres in the Central High School, 

Philadelphia. 

" The Outlines of Sacred History is one of the best summaries I have ever seen, and I 
consider it particularly well suited to the purposes of instruction in schools. It is free 
from sectarian views, and the style is well adapted to the comprehension of young people. 

Generally introduced into our seminaries of education it cannot fail to exert a salutary 
influence on the moral and religious character of the rising generation. 

Philadelphia, March 22d, 1843. John Frost. 

From S. Jones, A. M., — JVf. D., Principal of Classical and Mathematical Instittife, comer 
of Seventh and Carpenter streets, Philadelphia. 

The value of this little book is not to be estimated by its size. Whoever admits that the 
Holy Scriptures should be considered the only safe and proper basis of an education in 
the popular as well as in the true sense, liberal, must bid every such contribution from the 
press a cordial welcome. It belongs to a class of books which, I am happy to believe, are 
beginning to be more correctly appreciated by parents and teachers, for whose assistance it 
has been specially prepared. In it we have a judicious selection of incidents from mate- 
rials of great variety and extent. The narratives are comprehensive, well arranged, concise, 
and at the same time lucid : numerous striking poetical quotations, and well designed en- 
gravings, interspersed throughout the volume, serve to enliven and embellish it ; and not 
the least valuable parts are the Chronological Index and the questions at the end. As 
furnishing to children and youth, an agreeable, and at the same time profitable occupation, 
for a Sabbath evening's exercise, this Sacred History will be found of great utility ; nor 
can I doubt that a book so well adapted to meet the exigencies of the times, will meet with 
a liberal patronage. 

Philadelphia, April 1843. S. Jones. 

Mr. E. C. Biddle, 

Sir, — You have done the cause of Education essential service m the republication of the 

" Outlines of Sacred History." Such a work was much needed, for it conforms in size 

and style to the tastes of the young, and will create a desire for more extensive knowledge 

of the Sacred Text. 

For the sphere in which it is designed to circulate, I consider it the best work extant, 
Philadelphia, April 1st, 1843. Yours, &., Gilbert Combs. 

Principal of Spring Garden Institute for Young Ladies. 

Mr. E. C. Biddle, 

Dear Sir, — I have examined with care and attention the " Outlines of Sacred History," 
to which you called my observation ; and must say I am much pleased with the book, in 
all its parts. I think the Chronological Table invaluable ; and feel not the least hesita- 
tion in recommending the work to every lover of the Gospel, as by studying them in con- 
junction, the " Outlines" will be found a very great assistant, not only to the mere tyro, 
but also to more mature minds. 

I should think it almost indispensable to the Sabbath School Teacher, and peculiarly 
useful, too, in any school where the Scriptures are used as a class book. 

Philadelphia, April Ut, 1843. Respectfully, &c., &c., W. G. E. Agnew. 

Principal of Zane >t. Public Grammar School. 

12 



If'orks Published by Edward C Biddle. 



Philadklphia, April 17, 1843. 
Mr. E. C. Biddle. — Sir: I am much pleased with your new edition of 
the " OutHnes of Sacred History." It is an admirable text book to lead the 
youthful mind to a connected view of the events recorded in the Bible, and 
many others of great importance, as connected with the history of the Jews. 
The nature of this communication does not permit me to discuss its merits. 
I would merely say, that I am not acquainted with any other work so well 
adapted to this important object. It will be a class book in my school. 
I am yours, truly, Samuel Randall. 

Female Seminary, 229 Arch street. 
Mr. E. C. Biddle, 

Dear Sir,— I have examined the " Outlineu of Sacred History" published by you, and it 
is my opinion that no School, Family, or Sabbath School should be without it, as its accu- 
rate information with regard to the Bible and Historical Facts in connection with it, is 
calculated to do much good in preventing erroneous impressions and misapprehensions of 
the Sacred Text, besides exciting much interest, and leading thereby to a search of the 
Scriptures, and a consequent overthrow of the novelties started by speculating errorists, in 
such painful and fatal abundance at the present day. 
Philadelphia, March 3lsL 1843. Yours, &c., R. S, Roberts. 

Principal of the Academy N. E. corner 8th and Chesnut tts. 

Mr. E. C. Biddle, 

Having carefully examined your new edition of " Outlines of Sacred History," I am 
frank in giving it my entire approbation. Free from bias, and well digested, it not only 
gives a clear and comprehensive view of Scripture History ; but it also comprises much ad- 
ditional matter, tending to fix the chronology and illustrate the characters of the inspired 
writers, and rendering the work, as a whole, admirably smted to the purposes of instruc- 
tion in this all-important branch, the study of the Bible. 

Philadelphia, ^vnl U, 1843. J. C. Richardson, A. B. 

Principal of the Washington square Academy. 

Many other commendatory notices from teachers of respectable standing, 
in Philadelphia, are in the hands of the publisher, but excluded for 
want of room. 

Notice in the " Presbyterian,^' April \st, 1843. 
" An excellent outline of Sacred History, well adapted to public or private instruc- 
tion. It has received the commendations of a number of the most respectable teachers, 
who have made a trial of it in their schools." 

JVom the « Banner of the Cross," March 25«A, 1843. 

" This excellent little work was originally published in London under the direction of 

the Committee of General Literature and Education, appointed by the Society for promoting 

Christian Knowledge. The present new edition (illustrated with thirty-four engravings 

on wood) is enlarged and improved ; and we trust it will meet with suitable encouragement." 

JFVom " The Saturday Courier,^' March 25th, 1843. 
" This little work is designed on a most admirable plan, selecting as it does from the 
mass of the Bible — much of which is necessarily mysterious and confusing to the young — a 
regular chain of historical and moral events, which, in the present form, cannot fail to 
render what might otherwise be considered by some a task, a pleasure, and thus create a 
taste for the perusal and study of the sacred word." 

The following notice selected from numerous testimonials to the merits 
of the work given on the publication of the last edition, is the only one 
which our limited space will admit. Other notices may found bound 
up with the present edition. 

" Outlines of Sacred History.^' — A very interesting work, well adapted to answer the 
end designed. Illustrated with numerous wood cuts, and enriched with poetic description, 
its arrangement seems admirably calculated to impress upon the rising generation the 
interesting facts of sacred history. In this little volunie, kings, warriors, judges, 
shepherds, and tribes pass before us in succession ; and while we read their history, we 
almost seem to groan under their bondage, or exult in their liberty. Sir Isaac Newton 
said, "There is no philosophy like that taught in the Bible;" and truly we may say, 
there is no history of any nation or of any age that will bear comparison with that re- 
corded on its sacred page : and I deem every effort to bring it before our families and 
the rising generation as worthy of praise ; and when done with the taste and order ex- 
hibited in uese Outlines, as deserving extensive patronage. 

William Suddards, 
Rector of Grace Church, Philadelphia. 



13 



Worlis Publislied by Edward C Biddle. 



THE AMERICAN EXPOSITOR, OR INTELLECTUAL 
DEFINER. Designed for the use of Schools. By R. Claggett, 
A. M., late Principal of Central High School, Providence. 

In the Philadelphia editim, now in press, various alterations, 
which the publisher deems improvements, have been made. 

The principal of these is a re-arrangement of the work accord- 
ing to a scale of vowel sounds agreeable to the pronunciation 
taught in the best schools of Philadelphia. 

The following testimonials to the merits of the work appear m 
the New York edition. 

Gentlemen.— Claggett's Expositor has been introduced into most of the schools in this 
couutv, and from the satisfaction expressed by the teachers and the improvement manifested 
bv the scholars, I feel authorized in adding my approval, and to commend it to those who 
have the selection of books for schools, believing it will be found of great assistance m 
aiding the scholar to acquire the command of language and the proper signification^ words. 

Yours, &.C. T. F. KllVtr. 

Deputy Superintendent of Public Schools for Kings County. 
PouGHKEEPSiE, Aug. 26, 1842. 
Dear Sir— Having examined the American Expositor, and believing it an excellent work 
for our common schools, and especially well calculated to exercise the reflective powers ol 
pupils, I most cheerfully recommend it to a discerning public. r^TVTt^TvrT 

^ ^ ' Respectfully yours, A. S. CLEMENT, 

Deputy Superintendent of Common Schools for Dutchess County. 
The American Expositor has been used in the Poughkeepsie Collegiate School one term, 
and we feel confident that we do no more than justice to the work, when we say, that it is 
the best adapted of any book that we have examined, to accomplish the object for which it 
is designed. The pupil who studies this book as he should, is learning to write, spell, 
define and compose at the same time. One peculiar advantage that it possesses is, that it 
interests the pupil ; and every teacher of experience knows that scholars will generally 
learn in proportion to the interest which they feel in their lessons. We feel great pleasure 
in recommending it as eminently worthy of patronage. CHARLES BARTLETT, A. M. 

I have introduced the American Expositor into this institution, and concur in the opinion 

recardine it as expressed above. ,.,,-.>. • , 

regaru g f JAMES FERGUSON, A. M., Principal, 

Erasmus Hall, Flatbush, N. Y. 

Late Rector of the Grammar school of Rutger's College. 

Having tested its utility in our schools, we are prepared to concur in the opinion above 

expressed ^" FAIRCHILD, A. M. 

^ ■ Principal Busby School, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

E. N. DURYEE, 

Principal Select School, Flatbush, N. Y. 

We, the undersigned, have introduced Claggett's American Expositor into our schools, 

and the progress of our pupils in composition, written according to its plan, has been so 

extraordinary, that we hesitate not to say, that we know of no work so well adapted to 

promote, both in private and public schools, a general improvement in this important but 

too much neglected branch of education ; while it contains all the advantages of spelling 

and defining exercises, which may, at the option of the teacher, be exclusively pursued, 

omitting the composing lessons. The plan is easily understood by the learner, and he soon 

acquires a lively interest in the exercises, and confidence in his own powers of thinking 

and invention, which we deem an object of paramount importance, not only to the youth 

at school, but especially to every adult who would be useful or distinguished in after life. 

As a means of intellectual discipline, adapted alike to the capacities of advanced scholars, 

and those in the earlier stages of their progress, we most cheerfully recommend this as a 

work of superlative merit. 

GEO. M. WILDER, A. M. "I 

W. MARSH, A. M. I Classical and English Teachers, City 

J. W. COE, A. M. I of Brooklyn, N. Y. 



J. H. PROCTOR, A. M. 

M. BEARDSLEY, A. M. 

D. STEVENS, A. M. 
W. MORE, 

S. A. BROWN, Laight street, 

E. BARTLETTE, Duane street, 
E. C. FORBES, Chambers street, 
L. FAMARIS, Hudson street, 

K. MARDEN, do 

V. THORN, Sullivan street. 



Classical and English Teachers, City 
of New-York. 



.Principals of Female Seminaries, 
City of New- York. 



14 



Works Publislied by Edward C. Biddle. 



H. SEYMOUR, A. M., English teacher, ] 

J. HEALY, do. do. ^ City of Brooklyn . 

H. HOWLETT, do. do. 

W. S. SPAULDING, A. M. 

J. L. SMITH, 

M. J. ELLIOTT, I Principals of Female Seminaries, 

A. S. E. CRAWFORD, f City of Brooklyn, N. Y. 

M. CURE, 

L. L. PLUMMER, J 

At a meeting of the School Committee of the city of Providence, holden at the Council 
Chamber, the following vote was passed unanimously : 

" Voted, that the book recently published by Rufus Claggett, Esq., entitled ' The Ame- 
rican Expositor, or Intellectual Definer,' be introduced into all the public Grammar 
Schools in this city." A true copy, (Attest,) WILLFAM APLIN, Secretary. 

R. Claggett, Esq., a graduate of Dartmouth College, and an active and eflScient member 
of our School Committee, has rendered our Schools an important service in the prepara- 
tion of his American Expositor, a book so well adapted to the wants of our Public Schools, 
that our School Committee have adopted it as one of the books to be used in our Grammar 
School. N. BISHOP, 

Superintendent of Public Schools, City of Providence. 

From Cornelius Walker, Principal of WelVs Grammar School, Boston. 
" The American Expositor and Definer, for the use of schools, by Rufus Claggett, Esq., 
is, in my opinion, a work of great merit. It embraces a regular course of instruction in 
definitions, by which the minds of pupils may be successfully disciplined, and a ready, free, 
and correct use of words acquired. I will only add, that were I to recommend a set of 
text-books on elemantary instruction, the American Expositor would be one of the first on 
the catalogue.^' 

It is so much in accordance with my views already published on that subject, that it 
cannot fail to meet my approbation. S. PUTNAM, 

Brooklyn, Author of the Analytical Reader, &c. 
By the plan of the work the mind of the pupil must be impressed both with the meaning 
and use of words, as the lessons are of a practical and intellectual character. Of how much 
greater utility is such a plan than the usual one of defining, by giving a string of words 
with a strinff of words attached thereto, a repetition of mere sounds, only to be recited and 
then forgottln. S. W. SETON, 

Agent Public School Society of the City of New- York. 

The undersigned cheerfully recommend the "American Expositor," as a text book for 

Schools, eminently adapted to lead the pupil to an accurrate and practical knowledge of 

language. It most happily blends amusement with instructiou, and effectually initiates him 

into the highly important art of composition. V. DREW, 

Principal of the Academy of Science, Market Street, New York. 

T. W. S. HOWS, 
Principal of the Classical and Commercial Seminary, Broadway, New- York. 
I shall introduce it into my school as a book which I have long felt the want of, but have 
not heretofore been able to find. S. STEELE, 

Teacher Public School No. — Albany. 

From the Rev. Francis L. Hawks, D. D., of New York. 

Dear Sir : — I most willingly commend the American Expositor. I have subjected its 
merits to the surest test, for I have used the work among children and found it eminently 
successful. 

To provide the means for a more thorough understanding of the meaning and uses of the 
words of our language, is the main purpose of the " American Expositor and Intellectual 
Definer." This volume, prepared by an experienced teacher of Providence, seems to pro- 
mise much by way of enlivening the studies of the young in the acquirement of language. 
It contains six thousand words, arranged for spelling, with concise definitions, and illustra- 
tions of their uses, selected from standard authors. 

As a means of intellectual discipline, the study of words on this plan must be highly 
favorable. We hope that discerning teachers will not fail of adopting it in their schools. 

Boston, July 6. A. BRONSON ALCOTT. 

From Charles Fox, author of Progressive Exercises in English Grammar. 

Boylston School, Boston, July 24, 1836. 
" The American Expositor," I have examined with much pleasure and satisfaction. The 
design of requiring children to make a practical application of words after they have 
learned their meaning, is the only proper method of teaching definitions. It would afford 
me much gratification to know that the book was generally introduced into schools, in 
which are taught the elementary branches of an English education. Respectfully yours, 
^ CHARLES FOX. 



L 



15 



TForks Publisbed by Edward €. Biddle. 



BROWN'S FIRST LINES OF ENGLISH GRAMMAR.— De- 
signed for young learners. Brown's Institutes of English Gram- 
mar^ for the higher classes. 

These Grammars have been adopted as Text Books in the Public 
Schools in Boston and New- York; they are also used in many of the 
Academies and District Schools in various parts of the country. 
To those who have not had the opportunity to examine and judge for them- 
selves of their merits, the following testimonials are submitted: 

Boston, May 9, 1843. 
The " Institutes" &nd the " First Lines of EngHsh Grammar," by Goold 
Brown, were adopted by the School Committee this day, to be used us 
Text Books in the Pubhc Schools of this City. 

(Attest,) S. F. McCLEARY, Secretary. 

Goold Brown's "Institutes," and his "First Lines of English Gram- 
mar," have been adopted for the use of the Public Schools of this town. 
Rev. C. STETSON, of the School Committee. 
Medford, Mass., April 28, 1843. 

Albany, April 7, 1843. 
We, the undersigned, the Teachers of Public Schools in the city of 
Albany, in order to effect a uniformity in the Grammars used in the Pub- 
lic Schools, do agree to use Brown's "First Lines" and " Institutes of 
Grammar," in preference to any other. 
Samuel Steele, A. P. Smith, J. W. Bulkley, 

Atwood Steele, E. P. Freeman, George Wackerhasen, 

Wm. H. Hughes, Thos. W. Valentine, Wm. James. 

We, the undersigned, have examined Goold Brown's new work, " The 
Institutes of English Grammar," and are of opinion that in the justness of 
its general views, the excellence of its style, the brevity and perspicuity of 
its definitions, the copiousness and adaptation of its examples and exercises, 
the accuracy of its critical notes and observations, and the method of its 
arrangement, this work surpasses all other Grammars now in use : and 
that it consequently deserves the attention and patronage of every person 
concerned in cultivating the science of the English Language. 

The Brief Abstract, entitled "The First Lines of English Grammar" 
by the same author, is a neat, cheap, and concise treatise, containing many 
of the excellencies of the larger work, and is peculiarly fitted for young 
learners. It is sufficiently comprehensive for most elementary schools. 
John Griscom, LL.D. S. L. Mitchill, LL.D. J. M. Wainwright, D.D. 
Ansel W. Ives, M.D. W. Forrest, A.M. Dan'l. H. Barnes, A.M. 

Thatcher T. Payne, Robert F. Mott, Ezekiel W. Morse, 

James Milnor, D.D. James Douglass, and numerous others. 

" We concur in the foregoing opinion of Brown's Grammars, and cor- 
dially recommend them to the different Schools in our respective counties." 
WILLIAM L. STONE, Deputy Superintendent of the Common 

Schools of New- York, and Editor of N. Y. Com. Adv. 
T. F. KING, Dep. Sup. Common Schools of King's County. 
"We concur in the foregoing opinion of Brown's Grammars, and cor- 
dially recommend them to teachers. 

Benj. a. Gould, lately Principal of the Pubhc Latin School, Boston, 

W. J, Adams, Principal of the Grammar Dep. of Hancock School, Boston. 

C. E. Abbot, Principal of Temple School, Boston. 

B. F. Tweed, Principal of the Bunker Hill School, Charlestown, Mass. 

J. G. Foster, late Teacher in Harvard School, Charlestown, Mass. 

I. Ames, Principal of the High School, Medford, Mass. 

R. Putnam, Principal of the English High School for Boys. Salem, Mass. 

J. B. Fairfield, Principal of West Female High School, Salem, Mass. 

Rev. J. J. Butler, Prin. of Clinton Seminary, Clinton, Oneida co., N.Y. 

A. Valentine, Prin. of Uth District Grammar School, Danvers, Mass. 



Works Publisbed by Edward C. Biddle. 



Rev. J. M. Garfield, D.D., Principal of Albany Female Seminary. 

C, H. Anthony, A. M., Principal of Albany Classical Institute. 

R. Trumbull, A. M., Principal of Albany Select School. 

Rev. R. Jo Germain, Principal of St. Mary's Hall, Burlington, N. J. 

Charles Picot, " Young Ladies' Academy, Washington 

Square, Philadelphia, 
A. Bolmar, " Classical School, at West Chester, Pa. 

James CRawELL, " West Chester Academy for Boys, 

N. V. Maguire, '* Coates St. Pub. Gram. School, Phila. 

James Rhoads, " North West " " 

P. A. Gregar, " South East " «' 

A. T. W. Wright, ** Master street " '* 

T. Cloaves, LL. D. " Third street " " 

Wm. Roberts, " Moyamensing " ** 

James M. Bird, " Lombard st. " " 

H. Longstreth, " Friends' Academy, Philada. 

Seth Smith, *' " School, in Green St., Phila. 

S. Allen, ** ** " Pine " 

Samuel Alsop, " " Select School, " 

I take pleasure in adding to the above testimonies the expression of my 
own sense of the very great merit of Mr. Brown's Institutes of English 
Grammar. E. C. WINES, 

Principal of a Classical School, Philada. 
(late Professor in the Central High School, Philada.) 

I have examined Brown's " Institutes of Grammar," and concur in the 
recommendations given above. GEO. B. EMERSON, 

Principal of a Young Lady's School. 
Boston, March 22, 1843. 

Utica, 5 MO. 5, 1842. 

I consider the author of this Grammar to be as critically acquainted with 
the structure of the English language as any man living ; and I know of 
no work which goes so effectually into a detail of the flexions and powers 
of the language, and which contains such an admirable series of illus- 
trative exercises, drawn with good taste from very numerous authors, 
as does the Grammar of Gooid Brown. Its rules for a correct use of our 
tongue have long appeared to me to possess a superiority over every other 
with which I am acquainted ; — and any teacher who well understands it, 
will never, as it appears to me, stand in need of any of those conversa- 
tional, loquacious directions, which encumber the pages of some of the 
popular school books now extant. Any qualified teacher of grammar, can 
draw from the resources of his own mind, without printed directions, the 
means of familiarizing his instructions, and rendering this study easy, plea- 
sant, and attractive to very young pupils, and oi principles and examples 
he can find, I think, no better guide. 

The " First Lines" are sufficient for all common, or introductory classes, 
while " The Institutes" will complete the grammatical skill of any class 
in Academy or College. JOHN GRISCOM, LL. D. 

To the Publishers of^^Brown's Institutes of Grammar.^^ 

I have examined the "Institutes" aforenamed, and have recommended 
its introduction into the schools of this county. Upwards of twenty-five 
schools have used it for the year past, with the conviction resulting from 
experiment, that a better knowledge can be obtained of Grammar with this 
work in nine mo7ilhs than in twelve months with the works hitherto in use. 
There is in this Treatise no confounding of the different parts of Gram- 
mar, as that of Etymology with Syntax. There is no redundancy nor de- 
ficiency in the work, while it is marked for its simplicity of arrangement 
and precision of style. I therefore most cordially recommend it to the 
public as a work of high merit. 

"TAe First Lines of Grammar,'''' I am happy to say, is better than any 

, .nil ■^,1. < 

17 



TForks Publisbed by Ediivard €. Biddle. 



other work I have seen for young scholars, and to such I would respect- 
fully recommend it as truly valuable. CHARLES ROBBINS, 

Visiter of Common Schools for Tompkins Co., New- York. 

Ithaca, March, 1841. 

" This is one of the nearest approaches to a complete Grammar, on the 
Murray system, that has been made in this country : and on that principle, 
we think it the best beyond comparison." — U. S. Gazette, Philadelphia. 

Extract of a letter from Benjamin A. Gould, Author of Gould's Virgil, 
&c., and former Principal of the Latin School, Boston. 
" Having some years ago occasion to look into the comparative merits 
of the English Grammars then in use among us, I was very favourably im- 
pressed with a Grammar published by Mr. Goold Brown. It struck me 
at the time as the best system of English Grammar that I had met with ; 
and I subsequently learned that several other gentlemen, whose judgment 
I considered better than my own, entertained a like opinion. It contains 
many little matters of importance connected with the subject which I do 
not recollect to have seen in any other compend : and the whole seems ad- 
mirably adapted to practical use in seminaries of a high grade. With these 
views I take the liberty of recommending it to attention, as worthy of a 
careful and critical examination. I think every gentleman interested in 
education, and in the literature of our country, must have felt our singular 
deficiency in this department. " Hiatus magne deflendus ! most certainly." 

Haverhill, May 2, 1843. 
The undersigned are acquainted with most of the works on English 
Grammar used in New England, and having examined the "First Lines 
of English Grammar" by Goold Brown, we heartily concur with others in 
pronouncing it the best work for our elementary schools that has come un- 
der our notice. JOSIAH ATKINSON, A. B. 

JACOB ATKINSON, A. B. 
JOHN B. CARRICK, 
Teachers of Grammar Schools, Haverhill, N. H. 

After having examined Brown's " Institutes of English Grammar," I 
gladly embrace the opportunity of expressing my opinion that it is superior 
to any work of the kind used in Great Britain or the United States. Seve- 
ral of the Treatises on Grammar, which have for some time been studied, in 
New Ensland, abound in vulgarisms, and betray most discreditable igno- 
rance onlhe part of their authors. Under these circumstances, I ani glad 
to meet with a work such as that now before me ; and it is my intention to 
employ it as a Text book for my pupils after the present term. 

JAMES MACKAY, A. M. 
Of King's College, Scotland, Rector of the High School, Nashua, N. H. 

April 8, 1843. 

Troy, April 18, 1843. 

Having used Mr, Goold Brown's Institutes of English Grammar for the 
last three years, I would cheerfully recommend it to the public as a work 
better calculated in my opinion than any other now in use, to impart to the 
student a thorough and critical knowledge of the science of Grammar, and 
of the true structure of the English language. 

ROLAND S. HOWES, Principal of Troy Academy. 

Mobile, Feb. 20, 1843. 
I have used Brown's Grammar in my School for several years, and hold 
it in hiffh estimation. Its scientific arrangement, copious exercises, clear 
definitions, and accuracy in detail, give it a precedence alike creditable to 
the author and advantageous to the cause of learning. 

S. R. WRIGHT, Principal of Mobile High School. 

Mobile, Feb. 16, 1843. 
I have used Brown's Grammar for several years ; and I do not hesitate 
to say that I consider it one of the best with which I am acquainted. 

J\ E. F. WOOD, St. Emanuel street School. 

18 ^0 i 5q" 



Iforks Publisbed by Edward C. Blddle. 



LINEAR DRAWING BOOK; designed for the use of schools and 
practical purposes. By Samuel Smith, Professor of drawing in St. Mary's 
College, Baltimore. 

Baltimore, July 27, 1843. 
Mr. Samuel Smith, 

Dear sir, — It affords me the greatest pleasure to express my approbation 
of your most excellent work on Linear Drawing. Any one who will exa- 
mine it, will immediately see that it is composed in such a manner, as to act, 
insensitaly and by degrees, in giving to the student a correct eye and firm- 
ness of hand, and enable him to draw with accuracy and effect ; also to 
prepare him advantageously for the higher walk, of perspective. Your me- 
thod has been tested for many years before the present work was printed, 
and I am pleased to say, that our institution is one of the first, if not the 
first, in which this highly valuable branch of education has been introduced 
as a part of the regular course of instruction ; and I feel confident that your 
work will spread abroad the excellent principles you develope in the in- 
structions to your classes, and that it will be adopted by every institution 
that feels interested in the promotion of the arts and sciences. 
Yours, sincerely, 

GILBERT RAYMOND, 

President St. Mary's College. 

Baltimore, Aug. 10, 1843. 
Samuel Smith, Esq. 

Dear sir, — From an examination of your " Linear Drawing Book," I 
confidently recommend it as the best systematic work on the subject that 
I have seen. The examples given are such as are not only best adapted for 
instruction and practice in drawing, but they serve, also, to convey a very 
desirable knowledge of the forms and proportions of important objects of 
science and art. Very truly. 

Your obedient servant, 

ROBERT GARY LONG, 

Architect. 

Mr. S. Smith,— My dear sir : — My long acquaintance with your abiUty as 
a teacher of drawing, and your correct views in regard to the mode ox in- 
struction, satisfies me that your work on Linear Drawing will be a valuable 
aid to the students of the art. I am, very respectfully, &c. 

JOHN H. B. LATROBE. 
Baltimore, Aug. 2, 1843. 

The Linear Drawing Book by Mr. Smith is in use in my seminary, and 
I regard it as a most excellent work, supplying a series of useful exercises 
well adapted to the wants of the teacher and the pupil in this interesting 
and useful branch of study. It suppUes a deficiency which has too long 
existed in this department ; and I must be allowed to express the hope that 
Mr. Smith will carry out a design, so well commenced, by the publication 
of one or more additional parts, calculated to advance the pupil in the higher 
and more complicated exercises of the art of which he is so able a teacher. 

S. F. STREETER. 

Baltimore, April 28, 1843. 

" The Author has equally exhibited his own knowledge, and his capacity 
of imparting it to others in a sure and easy manner." — North American, 
Philadelphia. 

— "A book which seems admirably adapted to supply an every day want 
of artists and mechanics. A series of drawings explained by short and 
comprehensive directions, increasing in difl^culty by regular gradations, and 
yet throughout so simple as to be comprehended without the aid of a 
teacher, is a desideratum which has long been wanted, and this book, we 
think, is capable of supplying it.' '^—United States' Gazette, Philaddphia. 



TTorks Publisbed by Edward €. Biddle. 



SPEECHES OF PATRICK HENRY, FISHER AMES, WILLIAM PINCKNEY, 

AND OTHERS. 
SPEECHES OF PHILLIPS, CURRAN, GRATTAN, AND EMMETT. 

SPEECHES OF CHATHAM, BURKE, AND ERSKINE, to which are added 
the Arguments of Mr. Mackintosh in the case of Feltier, selected by a Member 
of the Philadelphia Bar. 

SELECT SPEECHES of the Right Honorable George Canning. Edhed by Ro- 
bert Walsh, Esq., with a Biographical and Critical Introduction, by the editor. 
1 vol. 8vo. 

SELECT SPEECHES, of the Right Honorable William Huskisson, and of the 
Right Honorable William Windham. Edited by Robert Walsh, Esq., with a 
Biographical and Critical Introduction, by the editor. 1 vol. 8vo. 

LIBRARY OF ORATORY, comprising the above tive volumes, uniformly bound. 

FAMILY BOOK OF DEVOTION, comprising Daily Morning and Evening Prayers 
for four weeks, a Sermon on Contemplation and an Evening Prayer for every 
Sunday in the year : and an Appendix of Prayers for particular occasions, with 
an Introduction on the Importance of Family Religion. By the Rev. Herman 
Hooker, A. M. 

HOME BOOK OF HEALTH AND MEDICINE, being a popular Treatise on the 
means of avoiding and curing diseases, and of preserving the health and vigour 
of the body to the latest period : including a full account of the Diseases of 
Women and Children, &c., by a Philadelphia Physician. 

FOX'S BOOK OF MARTYRS, 2 vols, in one, 8vo , 60 engravings. 

DICK'S WORKS, 8 vols., fine edition 

DICK'S PHILOSOPHY OF A FUTURE STATE. 

DICK'S PHILOSOPHY OF RELIGION. 

DICK'S CHRISTIAN PHILOSOPHER. 

DICK'S IMPROVEMENT OF SOCIETY. 

DICK'S ESSAY ON COVETOUSNESS. 

DICK ON MENTAL ILLUMINATION AND MORAL IMPROVEMENT OF 

MANKIND. 
DICK'S CELESTIAL SCENERY. 
DICK'S SIDEREAL HEAVENS. 
THE LIFE OF WILLIAM COWPER, Compiled from his Correspondence and 

other authentic sources of information. By Thomas Taylor. New edition. 
LETTERS TO AN ANXIOUS INQUIRER. By T. Carlton Henry. With an 

Introduciory Essay, by Dr. Bedell. 
WILBERFORCE'S PRACTICAL VIEW OF THE PREVAILING RELIGIOUS 

SYSTEM OF PROFESSED CHRISTIANS, in the Higher and Middle Classes, 

contrasted with Real Christianity. With an Introductory Essay, by the Rev. 

Daniel Wilson, A. M., late Vicar of Islington, now Bishop of Calcutta. 
BICKERSTETH'S HARMONY OF THE FOUR GOSPELS, designed for the 

use of Families and Schools, and for private edification. 
i PROGRESSIVE EXPERIENCE OF THE HEART, under the Discipline of the 

Holy Ghost, from Regeneration to Maturity. By Mrs. Stevens. 
I CHRISTIAN'S DEFENSIVE DICTIONARY. Being an Alphabetical Refutation 

of the General Objections to the Sacred Scriptures. By Dr. Sleigh. 1 vol. 12mo. 
SELECT POEMS. By Mrs. L. H. Sigourney. 4th edition. With Five fine En- 
gravings. 

CHRISTIAN LIBRARY, 2 vols. imp. oct., containing the following works— Me- 
moir of the Rev. Robert Hall. History of the Reformed Religion in France. 
Taylor's Life of Cowper. Fergus on Nature and Revelation. Viller's Essay on 
the' Reformation. History of the Civilization and Christianization of South Af- 
rica. The Christian Remembrancer, by Ambrose Serle. Raffle's Tour. The 
Church of God, by Robert Wilson Evans. Historical Sketches on the Missions 
of the United Brethren. Lectures on the Law and Gospel, by Dr. Tyng. Fair- 
holme's Geology of Scripture. Lectures on Portions of the Psalms. A Por- 
traiture of Modern Scepticism. Memoirs of Miss Mary Jane Graham. The 
Personality and Office of the Christian Comforter. History of the Reformanon 
in Spain. Fanaticism. History of the Crusade against the Albigenses. The 
Life of Bishop Wilson. Sermons by the Right Rev. Joseph Butler. Sermons 
by the late Rev. Robert Hall. With Critical Notices of various works. 

Many of the above works are out of print, except in this form. 

20 



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